Re: Stus-List C&C 115 new keel joint video

[Wally Bryant]

jtsails wrote:

  Wally, you dropped your keel and redid the joint, any input?


I took a ton of pics during my 2008 haul. 



The 'quick fix' I'd done three years earlier was still in good shape, 
but I've never regretted dropping it.


Wal



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay

[Law Office of Craig Meyerson]

I installed a traveler track from the mast base to the forward most point on 
the deck I wanted the baby stay to reach on my old C&C 34.  Put an adjustable 
car on the track controlled from the cockpit.  Used dyneema for the stay.  
Downwind adjusted the car aft to get out of the way for dip-pole jibing and aft 
pole adjustment.  Worked very well.  Should be helpful for end to end jibing 
too.  The dyneema was on its fourth season when I sold the boat.  
 
Baby stay reduces mast pumping upwind, so I would not remove it.

 Craig Meyerson
C&C 115 Souvenir
 
From: dwight veinot 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2012 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay

Won't be much easier

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
dre...@gmail.com
Sent: October 17, 2012 10:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay

Hi,

I am looking for a solution to help make my baby stay more easily removable.
I presently have a standard 1x19 SS cable turn buckle set up, and I plan to
install a pelican-like hook attachment.  I have a colleague who is
replacing his SS lifelines with Dyneema line.  This got me to think about
using Dyneema for the baby stay.    Does anyone have any experience in using
a Dyneema solution for any rigging arrangements?


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2441/5336 - Release Date: 10/16/12


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
CnC-List@cnc-list.com___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Stus-List Resolute Keel/Hull join - Q for Chuck

[Hoyt, Mike]

Chuck
 
My old Niagara 26 once had a leaking joint and torquing bolts solved
that but it needed rebedding.  I loosened nuts 2 inches, raised boat 1.5
inches, cleaned the gap, filled with 5200, dropped the boat and
retorqued.  Never had a problem again.  A lot easier to do in a 4000lb
26 foot boat
 
On current boat there are no leaks and bolts are tight.  I always get a
small crack in fairing on leading 1/3 of keel at keel hull joint.  Have
used G Flex thickened with West 407 the last two seasons to refair which
has helped but not stopped the crack.  Am interested to hear more of the
reinforced cloth style job done on Resolute.  May put a couple layers of
glass in rather than thickened epoxy.  Joint seems sound and is not a
lot of movement but would be nice to know it does not crack every year.
This is on my J/27.  
 
Mike
 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck
S
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2012 12:15 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 115 new keel joint video


Good video.  Did they wrap the keel joint with glass?  Missed seeing the
fairing process.

Resolute used to require an annual grind and refairing.  It never
leaked, but the joint opened up each year from sailing pressure on that
long lever.  When Resolute had keel work, the yard wrapped the joint
with two layers of re-enforced fiberglass.  I've touched bottom since
and she remains very strong w no sign of the old joint. 


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Portlight Frame Expansion/Contraction

[blhickson]

And if you're replacing every port lens, number them as you take them off so 
you can put the new ones back in their original locations. Using the old ones 
as templates is the best way to get a good fit. 
Barbara Hickson Fellers
"Flight Risk" 
'76 C&C 33 MkI


Sent from the Mars Rover. 

On Oct 17, 2012, at 8:52 PM, Rich Knowles  wrote:

> If the old ones are not cracked, I'd use them as patterns for the new lenses. 
> An evasive answer, I know, but I'd say in a typical small aluminum frame the 
> dimension change due to heat would be negligible and leaving an 1/8" 
> clearance all round should prevent cracking. 
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> On 2012-10-17, at 21:43, Bob Moriarty  wrote:
> 
> I am replacing the lenses on my portlights. They are in aluminum
> frames that are screwed into the cabintop.  I understand that I need
> to take into account the expansion/contraction of the lens material.
> When the temperature increases does the inside circumference of the
> frame increase or decrease?
> Thx in advance,
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay

[Pat Nevitt]

I have a 29-2 that has a baby stay on it.  The stay normally stays shackled
to the mast base except in heavier air when I run the shackle to a ring in
the center of the deck.  The stay is cable to a series of blocks that give
me 4:1 purchase and aline that runs back to the cockpit through a rope
clutch.  Whether you need it or not depends on how much wind you get.  Here
on the Chesapeake I rarely use it.  During the race last Sunday however
with winds at 16-19, gusts to 24, we put it on when going upwind and it
really helps flatten the mainsail.  With the setup I have it is really easy
to release the clutch to take the tension off the shackle and then run the
shackle back to the mast for the downwind run.  I don't know about using
Dynema.  The thing that bothers me about that is that at the end of the
day, it is still fabric and something sharp can cut it and destroy it.

Pat Nevitt
*Patriot*
C&C 29 MKII
Galesville MD

On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 7:40 AM, Law Office of Craig Meyerson <
craigmeyer...@yahoo.com> wrote:

> I installed a traveler track from the mast base to the forward most point
> on the deck I wanted the baby stay to reach on my old C&C 34.  Put an
> adjustable car on the track controlled from the cockpit.  Used dyneema for
> the stay.  Downwind adjusted the car aft to get out of the way for dip-pole
> jibing and aft pole adjustment.  Worked very well.  Should be helpful for
> end to end jibing too.  The dyneema was on its fourth season when I sold
> the boat.
>
> Baby stay reduces mast pumping upwind, so I would not remove it.
>
>   Craig Meyerson
> C&C 115 *Souvenir*
> **
>   *From:* dwight veinot 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 17, 2012 6:28 PM
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
>
> Won't be much easier
>
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> dre...@gmail.com
> Sent: October 17, 2012 10:10 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
>
> Hi,
>
> I am looking for a solution to help make my baby stay more easily
> removable.
> I presently have a standard 1x19 SS cable turn buckle set up, and I plan to
> install a pelican-like hook attachment.  I have a colleague who is
> replacing his SS lifelines with Dyneema line.  This got me to think about
> using Dyneema for the baby stay.Does anyone have any experience in
> using
> a Dyneema solution for any rigging arrangements?
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1979 C&C 29 Mk1
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
>
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> -
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2441/5336 - Release Date: 10/16/12
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Stus-List Electric Fuel pumps.

FYI: I went looking for an electric fuel pump to assist in bleeding the air
out of my diesel system and to act as a fuel pump if the mechanical unit
decided to go on strike.

 

The best I found and the one I went with is a Facet solid state pump
purchased from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Company.

 

See: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catorder.php

 

They also have a Canadian outlet. Great prices, great Catalog and excellent
service.

 

Rich Knowles

INDIGO - LF38

Halifax, NS

 

 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Electric Fuel pumps.

[Wster1156]

That is a cool website. I build guitars and I haven't seen a company that  
sells aircraft grade spruce. Thanks for putting this out there. Bill 
Sterling  Greenman Guitars
 
 
In a message dated 10/18/2012 9:56:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
r...@sailpower.ca writes:

 
FYI: I went  looking for an electric fuel pump to assist in bleeding the 
air out of my  diesel system and to act as a fuel pump if the mechanical unit 
decided to go  on strike. 
The best I found  and the one I went with is a Facet solid state pump 
purchased from Aircraft  Spruce and Specialty Company. 
See: _http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catorder.php_ 
(http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catorder.php)  
They also have a  Canadian outlet. Great prices, great Catalog and 
excellent  service. 
Rich  Knowles 
INDIGO -  LF38 
Halifax,  NS 



___
This  List is provided by the C&C Photo  Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay

[Tim Goodyear]

I am looking at replacing my baby stay track system this year.  The
stainless stay itself is fine, but the 'traveler' binds under load, which
is whenever you're using the stay...

Dyneema sounds interesting, and would be easier to store at the mast than
the stiff wire.  Could it also allow use of a cascading tackle system to a
fixed padeye rather than the car / track adjustment to develop the required
force?  I think I'll go to the boat this weekend and put the Loos gauge on
the stay and find out what tension is required!

Thanks,

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 9:11 AM, Pat Nevitt  wrote:

> I have a 29-2 that has a baby stay on it.  The stay normally stays
> shackled to the mast base except in heavier air when I run the shackle to a
> ring in the center of the deck.  The stay is cable to a series of blocks
> that give me 4:1 purchase and aline that runs back to the cockpit through a
> rope clutch.  Whether you need it or not depends on how much wind you get.
> Here on the Chesapeake I rarely use it.  During the race last Sunday
> however with winds at 16-19, gusts to 24, we put it on when going upwind
> and it really helps flatten the mainsail.  With the setup I have it is
> really easy to release the clutch to take the tension off the shackle and
> then run the shackle back to the mast for the downwind run.  I don't know
> about using Dynema.  The thing that bothers me about that is that at the
> end of the day, it is still fabric and something sharp can cut it and
> destroy it.
>
> Pat Nevitt
> *Patriot*
> C&C 29 MKII
> Galesville MD
>
> On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 7:40 AM, Law Office of Craig Meyerson <
> craigmeyer...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> I installed a traveler track from the mast base to the forward most point
>> on the deck I wanted the baby stay to reach on my old C&C 34.  Put an
>> adjustable car on the track controlled from the cockpit.  Used dyneema for
>> the stay.  Downwind adjusted the car aft to get out of the way for dip-pole
>> jibing and aft pole adjustment.  Worked very well.  Should be helpful for
>> end to end jibing too.  The dyneema was on its fourth season when I sold
>> the boat.
>>
>> Baby stay reduces mast pumping upwind, so I would not remove it.
>>
>>   Craig Meyerson
>> C&C 115 *Souvenir*
>> **
>>*From:* dwight veinot 
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 17, 2012 6:28 PM
>>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
>>
>> Won't be much easier
>>
>> Dwight Veinot
>> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
>> dre...@gmail.com
>> Sent: October 17, 2012 10:10 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I am looking for a solution to help make my baby stay more easily
>> removable.
>> I presently have a standard 1x19 SS cable turn buckle set up, and I plan
>> to
>> install a pelican-like hook attachment.  I have a colleague who is
>> replacing his SS lifelines with Dyneema line.  This got me to think about
>> using Dyneema for the baby stay.Does anyone have any experience in
>> using
>> a Dyneema solution for any rigging arrangements?
>>
>>
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1979 C&C 29 Mk1
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Carrabelle, FL
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
>>
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> -
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2441/5336 - Release Date: 10/16/12
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay

[Sébastien Lemieux]

On my 30-2, I've always assumed that the baby stay (together with the internal 
rod linking the deck attachment to the hull) was also playing a role in 
stiffening the hull since there is no forward bulkhead (the wall is angled and 
provides no support).

Given that there is no forward bulkhead, is it still safe to remove the baby 
stay?

As for the use of fabric, I was practicing DB splicing earlier this summer with 
some 3/8 Samson XLS extra.  Cutting the core (MFP + dyneema blend) was 
extremely difficult.  I had no pairs of scissors in the house up for the job.  
I had to use a very sharp kitchen knife against a cutting board. The knife 
needed a few passes on the sharpening steel every 10 cuts or so.  Since the XLS 
is a value-oriented line, I don't think it has a very high dyneema content...  
These fibers are certainly easier to cut than a steel cable, but I don't think 
they can be cut "by accident".

Sébastien Lemieux
Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987
Mooney Bay - Lake Champlain

On Oct 18, 2012, at 9:11, Pat Nevitt wrote:

> I have a 29-2 that has a baby stay on it.  The stay normally stays shackled 
> to the mast base except in heavier air when I run the shackle to a ring in 
> the center of the deck.  The stay is cable to a series of blocks that give me 
> 4:1 purchase and aline that runs back to the cockpit through a rope clutch.  
> Whether you need it or not depends on how much wind you get.  Here on the 
> Chesapeake I rarely use it.  During the race last Sunday however with winds 
> at 16-19, gusts to 24, we put it on when going upwind and it really helps 
> flatten the mainsail.  With the setup I have it is really easy to release the 
> clutch to take the tension off the shackle and then run the shackle back to 
> the mast for the downwind run.  I don't know about using Dynema.  The thing 
> that bothers me about that is that at the end of the day, it is still fabric 
> and something sharp can cut it and destroy it.
> 
> Pat Nevitt
> Patriot
> C&C 29 MKII
> Galesville MD
> 
> On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 7:40 AM, Law Office of Craig Meyerson 
>  wrote:
> I installed a traveler track from the mast base to the forward most point on 
> the deck I wanted the baby stay to reach on my old C&C 34.  Put an adjustable 
> car on the track controlled from the cockpit.  Used dyneema for the stay.  
> Downwind adjusted the car aft to get out of the way for dip-pole jibing and 
> aft pole adjustment.  Worked very well.  Should be helpful for end to end 
> jibing too.  The dyneema was on its fourth season when I sold the boat. 
>  
> Baby stay reduces mast pumping upwind, so I would not remove it.
> 
>  Craig Meyerson
> C&C 115 Souvenir
>  
> From: dwight veinot 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2012 6:28 PM
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
> 
> Won't be much easier
> 
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> dre...@gmail.com
> Sent: October 17, 2012 10:10 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am looking for a solution to help make my baby stay more easily removable.
> I presently have a standard 1x19 SS cable turn buckle set up, and I plan to
> install a pelican-like hook attachment.  I have a colleague who is
> replacing his SS lifelines with Dyneema line.  This got me to think about
> using Dyneema for the baby stay.Does anyone have any experience in using
> a Dyneema solution for any rigging arrangements?
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1979 C&C 29 Mk1
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
> 
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> -
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2441/5336 - Release Date: 10/16/12
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Electric Fuel pumps.

[Rich Knowles]

Great!  I repair instruments and am interested in the spruce. Great catalogue. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2012-10-18, at 11:05, wster1...@aol.com wrote:

That is a cool website. I build guitars and I haven't seen a company that sells 
aircraft grade spruce. Thanks for putting this out there. Bill Sterling 
Greenman Guitars
 
In a message dated 10/18/2012 9:56:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
r...@sailpower.ca writes:
FYI: I went looking for an electric fuel pump to assist in bleeding the air out 
of my diesel system and to act as a fuel pump if the mechanical unit decided to 
go on strike.

 

The best I found and the one I went with is a Facet solid state pump purchased 
from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Company.

 

See: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catorder.php

 

They also have a Canadian outlet. Great prices, great Catalog and excellent 
service.

 

Rich Knowles

INDIGO - LF38

Halifax, NS

 

 



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay

[Joel Aronson]

I found the best knife for cutting Dyneema was a cheap ceramic knife from
Harbor Freight.  Second best was a sharp bread knife.  My new rigging knife
was useless!

On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 10:18 AM, Sébastien Lemieux
wrote:

> On my 30-2, I've always assumed that the baby stay (together with the
> internal rod linking the deck attachment to the hull) was also playing a
> role in stiffening the hull since there is no forward bulkhead (the wall is
> angled and provides no support).
>
> Given that there is no forward bulkhead, is it still safe to remove the
> baby stay?
>
> As for the use of fabric, I was practicing DB splicing earlier this summer
> with some 3/8 Samson XLS extra.  Cutting the core (MFP + dyneema blend) was
> extremely difficult.  I had no pairs of scissors in the house up for the
> job.  I had to use a very sharp kitchen knife against a cutting board. The
> knife needed a few passes on the sharpening steel every 10 cuts or so.
>  Since the XLS is a value-oriented line, I don't think it has a very high
> dyneema content...  These fibers are certainly easier to cut than a steel
> cable, but I don't think they can be cut "by accident".
>
> Sébastien Lemieux
> Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987
> Mooney Bay - Lake Champlain
>
> On Oct 18, 2012, at 9:11, Pat Nevitt wrote:
>
> I have a 29-2 that has a baby stay on it.  The stay normally stays
> shackled to the mast base except in heavier air when I run the shackle to a
> ring in the center of the deck.  The stay is cable to a series of blocks
> that give me 4:1 purchase and aline that runs back to the cockpit through a
> rope clutch.  Whether you need it or not depends on how much wind you get.
> Here on the Chesapeake I rarely use it.  During the race last Sunday
> however with winds at 16-19, gusts to 24, we put it on when going upwind
> and it really helps flatten the mainsail.  With the setup I have it is
> really easy to release the clutch to take the tension off the shackle and
> then run the shackle back to the mast for the downwind run.  I don't know
> about using Dynema.  The thing that bothers me about that is that at the
> end of the day, it is still fabric and something sharp can cut it and
> destroy it.
>
> Pat Nevitt
> *Patriot*
> C&C 29 MKII
> Galesville MD
>
> On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 7:40 AM, Law Office of Craig Meyerson <
> craigmeyer...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> I installed a traveler track from the mast base to the forward most point
>> on the deck I wanted the baby stay to reach on my old C&C 34.  Put an
>> adjustable car on the track controlled from the cockpit.  Used dyneema for
>> the stay.  Downwind adjusted the car aft to get out of the way for dip-pole
>> jibing and aft pole adjustment.  Worked very well.  Should be helpful for
>> end to end jibing too.  The dyneema was on its fourth season when I sold
>> the boat.
>>
>> Baby stay reduces mast pumping upwind, so I would not remove it.
>>
>>   Craig Meyerson
>> C&C 115 *Souvenir*
>> **
>>*From:* dwight veinot 
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 17, 2012 6:28 PM
>>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
>>
>> Won't be much easier
>>
>> Dwight Veinot
>> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
>> dre...@gmail.com
>> Sent: October 17, 2012 10:10 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I am looking for a solution to help make my baby stay more easily
>> removable.
>> I presently have a standard 1x19 SS cable turn buckle set up, and I plan
>> to
>> install a pelican-like hook attachment.  I have a colleague who is
>> replacing his SS lifelines with Dyneema line.  This got me to think about
>> using Dyneema for the baby stay.Does anyone have any experience in
>> using
>> a Dyneema solution for any rigging arrangements?
>>
>>
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1979 C&C 29 Mk1
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Carrabelle, FL
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
>>
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> -
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2441/5336 - Release Date: 10/16/12
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551

Re: Stus-List Electric Fuel pumps.

[Wster1156]

Rich- I live in the states but I buy some of my tops from High Mountain  
Tonewood in British Columbia. Shane the owner is a great guy. Best Bill  
Sterling
 
 
In a message dated 10/18/2012 10:19:40 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
r...@sailpower.ca writes:

Great!  I repair instruments and am interested in the spruce. Great  
catalogue. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax


On 2012-10-18, at 11:05, _Wster1156@aol.com_ (mailto:wster1...@aol.com)  
wrote:


 
That is a cool website. I build guitars and I haven't seen a company that  
sells aircraft grade spruce. Thanks for putting this out there. Bill 
Sterling  Greenman Guitars
 
 
In a message dated 10/18/2012 9:56:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
_rich@sailpower.ca_ (mailto:r...@sailpower.ca)  writes:

 
FYI: I went  looking for an electric fuel pump to assist in bleeding the 
air out of my  diesel system and to act as a fuel pump if the mechanical unit 
decided to go  on strike. 
The best I found  and the one I went with is a Facet solid state pump 
purchased from Aircraft  Spruce and Specialty Company. 
See: _http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catorder.php_ 
(http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catorder.php)  
They also have a  Canadian outlet. Great prices, great Catalog and 
excellent  service. 
Rich  Knowles 
INDIGO -  LF38 
Halifax,  NS 



___
This  List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
_http://www.cncphotoalbum.com_ (http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/) 
_CnC-List@cnc-list.com_ (mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com) 



___
This  List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
_http://www.cncphotoalbum.com_ (http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/) 
_CnC-List@cnc-list.com_ (mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com) 



___
This  List is provided by the C&C Photo  Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay

[Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR]

This may come across as pedanticbut have you ever tried to cut
dyneema?

That stuff is *hard* on knives.I have a Spanish steel bladed (like
they use for swords), and I can only make 1 splice before it's time to
reshapen.

I've switched to utility knives, and go thru at least 1 blade (usually
both tips) every splice.

So..yeah, it's "fabric" in the sense that it's not metal, but It's
insanely resilient and tough.

For babystay, I'd switch in a heart beat, if I hadn't replaced it with
wire only a few years ago before I was hooked on spectra.

And that's the new name for my next rock band: "Hooked on spectra"

-Keith

-Original Message-
From: Pat Nevitt [mailto:pnev...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 9:11
To: Law Office of Craig Meyerson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay

I have a 29-2 that has a baby stay on it.  The stay normally stays
shackled to the mast base except in heavier air when I run the shackle
to a ring in the center of the deck.  The stay is cable to a series of
blocks that give me 4:1 purchase and aline that runs back to the cockpit
through a rope clutch.  Whether you need it or not depends on how much
wind you get.  Here on the Chesapeake I rarely use it.  During the race
last Sunday however with winds at 16-19, gusts to 24, we put it on when
going upwind and it really helps flatten the mainsail.  With the setup I
have it is really easy to release the clutch to take the tension off the
shackle and then run the shackle back to the mast for the downwind run.
I don't know about using Dynema.  The thing that bothers me about that
is that at the end of the day, it is still fabric and something sharp
can cut it and destroy it.

Pat Nevitt
Patriot
C&C 29 MKII
Galesville MD


On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 7:40 AM, Law Office of Craig Meyerson
 wrote:


I installed a traveler track from the mast base to the forward
most point on the deck I wanted the baby stay to reach on my old C&C 34.
Put an adjustable car on the track controlled from the cockpit.  Used
dyneema for the stay.  Downwind adjusted the car aft to get out of the
way for dip-pole jibing and aft pole adjustment.  Worked very well.
Should be helpful for end to end jibing too.  The dyneema was on its
fourth season when I sold the boat.  
 
Baby stay reduces mast pumping upwind, so I would not remove it.


 Craig Meyerson
C&C 115 Souvenir
 

From: dwight veinot 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2012 6:28 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay


Won't be much easier

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf
Of
dre...@gmail.com
Sent: October 17, 2012 10:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay

Hi,

I am looking for a solution to help make my baby stay more
easily removable.
I presently have a standard 1x19 SS cable turn buckle set up,
and I plan to
install a pelican-like hook attachment.  I have a colleague who
is
replacing his SS lifelines with Dyneema line.  This got me to
think about
using Dyneema for the baby stay.Does anyone have any
experience in using
a Dyneema solution for any rigging arrangements?


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/

CnC-List@cnc-list.com
-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2441/5336 - Release Date:
10/16/12


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
CnC-List@cnc-list.com




___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com





___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay

[Stevan Plavsa]

What exactly is mast pumping?
The early 32's seemed to not come with baby stays but I believe the later
ones did. I've also read that the 32 is "prone to mast pumping" but I don't
know what that means :)
I have an idea, but I don't really know. Mine is an early one with no baby
stay. However, there is a funny little attachment point (female, threaded,
~1/2") on the floor inside the vee birth that I have no idea what it's for,
maybe related, maybe not.

Thanks,
Steve
C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 10:34 AM, Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR <
keith.morgenst...@navy.mil> wrote:

> This may come across as pedanticbut have you ever tried to cut
> dyneema?
>
> That stuff is *hard* on knives.I have a Spanish steel bladed (like
> they use for swords), and I can only make 1 splice before it's time to
> reshapen.
>
> I've switched to utility knives, and go thru at least 1 blade (usually
> both tips) every splice.
>
> So..yeah, it's "fabric" in the sense that it's not metal, but It's
> insanely resilient and tough.
>
> For babystay, I'd switch in a heart beat, if I hadn't replaced it with
> wire only a few years ago before I was hooked on spectra.
>
> And that's the new name for my next rock band: "Hooked on spectra"
>
> -Keith
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Pat Nevitt [mailto:pnev...@gmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 9:11
> To: Law Office of Craig Meyerson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
>
> I have a 29-2 that has a baby stay on it.  The stay normally stays
> shackled to the mast base except in heavier air when I run the shackle
> to a ring in the center of the deck.  The stay is cable to a series of
> blocks that give me 4:1 purchase and aline that runs back to the cockpit
> through a rope clutch.  Whether you need it or not depends on how much
> wind you get.  Here on the Chesapeake I rarely use it.  During the race
> last Sunday however with winds at 16-19, gusts to 24, we put it on when
> going upwind and it really helps flatten the mainsail.  With the setup I
> have it is really easy to release the clutch to take the tension off the
> shackle and then run the shackle back to the mast for the downwind run.
> I don't know about using Dynema.  The thing that bothers me about that
> is that at the end of the day, it is still fabric and something sharp
> can cut it and destroy it.
>
> Pat Nevitt
> Patriot
> C&C 29 MKII
> Galesville MD
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 7:40 AM, Law Office of Craig Meyerson
>  wrote:
>
>
> I installed a traveler track from the mast base to the forward
> most point on the deck I wanted the baby stay to reach on my old C&C 34.
> Put an adjustable car on the track controlled from the cockpit.  Used
> dyneema for the stay.  Downwind adjusted the car aft to get out of the
> way for dip-pole jibing and aft pole adjustment.  Worked very well.
> Should be helpful for end to end jibing too.  The dyneema was on its
> fourth season when I sold the boat.
>
> Baby stay reduces mast pumping upwind, so I would not remove it.
>
>
>  Craig Meyerson
> C&C 115 Souvenir
>
>
> From: dwight veinot 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2012 6:28 PM
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
>
>
> Won't be much easier
>
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf
> Of
> dre...@gmail.com
> Sent: October 17, 2012 10:10 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
>
> Hi,
>
> I am looking for a solution to help make my baby stay more
> easily removable.
> I presently have a standard 1x19 SS cable turn buckle set up,
> and I plan to
> install a pelican-like hook attachment.  I have a colleague who
> is
> replacing his SS lifelines with Dyneema line.  This got me to
> think about
> using Dyneema for the baby stay.Does anyone have any
> experience in using
> a Dyneema solution for any rigging arrangements?
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1979 C&C 29 Mk1
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
>
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> -
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2441/5336 - Release Date:
> 10/16/12
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the

Re: Stus-List Electric Fuel pumps.

[Rich Knowles]

Thanks, Bill. I'll check them out. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2012-10-18, at 11:30, wster1...@aol.com wrote:

Rich- I live in the states but I buy some of my tops from High Mountain 
Tonewood in British Columbia. Shane the owner is a great guy. Best Bill Sterling
 
In a message dated 10/18/2012 10:19:40 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
r...@sailpower.ca writes:
Great!  I repair instruments and am interested in the spruce. Great catalogue. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2012-10-18, at 11:05, wster1...@aol.com wrote:

That is a cool website. I build guitars and I haven't seen a company that sells 
aircraft grade spruce. Thanks for putting this out there. Bill Sterling 
Greenman Guitars
 
In a message dated 10/18/2012 9:56:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
r...@sailpower.ca writes:
FYI: I went looking for an electric fuel pump to assist in bleeding the air out 
of my diesel system and to act as a fuel pump if the mechanical unit decided to 
go on strike.

 

The best I found and the one I went with is a Facet solid state pump purchased 
from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Company.

 

See: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catorder.php

 

They also have a Canadian outlet. Great prices, great Catalog and excellent 
service.

 

Rich Knowles

INDIGO - LF38

Halifax, NS

 

 



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List New sail purchase

[Ronald B. Frerker]

Before the newer materials came out, the racing sails used to be impregnated 
with a resin filler to make the surface smoother and less stretchy.  Of course 
this resin degraded and the sail became soft and didn't hold shape upwind 
well.For cruisers who wanted a more durable sail, but not quite as good for 
racing, they made a cruising cloth with a tighter weave.  It was more 
expensive, but it would last quite a bit longer.I mention this because your 
number one item listed sounds like this type of design, with resin as a 
stiffener.  I don't believe it will make it last longer if it's that old style, 
just faster while the resin is still working.RonWild CheriC&C 30STL

--- On Wed, 10/17/12, Sébastien Lemieux  wrote:

From: Sébastien Lemieux 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New sail purchase
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wednesday, October 17, 2012, 8:00 AM

Hello Bev,

  I am currently going through the same process for my furling genoa.  I've 
obtained quotes and been discussing with quite a few lofts (some local, some 
less locals).  I've come to the conclusion that a 135% would be a good size to 
go with (we have a 100% jib and an asym spi).  We also do essentially weekend 
cruising with quite a few day sails, no racing on the horizon.  Our boat is a 
C&C 30-mk2 of 1987.

  I have been considering three sail types and I haven't finalized my decision 
yet, so I'll throw in the arguments I have for each:

1) A classic cross-cut dacron sail.  The least expensive option at each loft.  
Prices can vary from loft to loft but if more than 5% variation, then there are 
differences in the construction.  Some lofts would suggest using rather thin 5 
oz. cloths, most preferred to go with 7-7.3 oz since we would favor using the 
spi when going with the wind and a heavier cloth would be more durable and more 
forgiving for the beginners we are (3 years with the boat so far, first boat).  
Some lofts offer different levels of "firmness" of the cloth, usually with a 
price premium (around 10% extra) and I've come to the conclusion that this 
upgrade makes sense (the sail should hold better shape for longer in higher 
winds).

2) A tri-radial design using fill-oriented dacron (UK Halsey warp drive or 
North Radian).  From the quotes we have, price is about 30% more than for the 
cross cut dacron.  The sail should hold its shape much better and should be as 
(if not more) durable than the classic cross-cut.  The sails for which we 
received quotes where all made in Asia.  North said that any repairs or 
adjustments need to be done at their headquarter in Connecticut.

3) A cross-cut sail using cruising oriented laminates.  Here the cloth is a 
laminate that includes fibers supporting the loads in directions that are 
aligned with tensions applied on a sail (see pdf brochure from Polyant: 
http://www.dimension-polyant.com/en/pdf/DP_Flex_Polyester_Cruise_E.pdf ).  It 
is called a cruising laminate because it is protected on both side by a weaved 
taffeta that protects the laminate from chafe.  This allows the sail to be made 
using the less labor intensive cross cut construction.  I have a quote from 
Haarstick (Rochester, NY) that comes up to about 25% more than the classic 
dacron cross-cut.  The sail should hold much better shape and it seems that 
with each new generation of laminates designed for cruising, the durability 
increases.

The level of discussion I had with each sailmaker varies a lot (both in 
verbosity and quality).  The most informative discussions I've had has been 
with Haarstick ( http://www.haarsticksailmakers.com ) where Doug Burtner has 
provided a lot of great info, was prompt to reply and everything he wrote I 
could confirm with further research.  Two local lofts I contacted were quite 
disappointing (Evolution sails never sent back a quote, North rep. was very 
verbose [on the phone] but not so informative and I've found that they don't 
have any loft and would do all repairs and modifications in Connecticut).  
Among the various sailmakers I've contacted, two have confirmed that the sail 
cut and construction would not be sent off shore: Haarstick (Rochester, NY) and 
Port Townsend sails (near Seattle, WA).  The sails from PT sails seem to be 
fantastic classic cruising sails but they are extremely expensive (about 2x the 
price of a classic dacron sail from other
 sailmakers).  Although I haven't investigated them much because of budget 
constraints, it seems like the type of sails I'd consider if I was to leave for 
a multi-year cruise.

In my case, although I've been putting emphasize on durability, I've realized 
that we put fairly little hours of use on our sails per year (short sailing 
season, family+work schedule, etc.).  I'm currently leaning toward going with 
the cruising laminate cross-cut proposed by Haarstick.  The fact that the 
high-tech fabric allows a less labor intensive construction (cross-cut) means 
less incentive to export labor offshore, I put some "morale" value into that

Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay

[Dennis C.]

Steve,

Mast pumping is when the middle of the mast moves fore and aft as the boat hits 
waves or is subjected to sudden puffs.  Pumping is minimized by babystays or 
running backs.  Running backs are lines or wires attached at stress points on 
the mast which then run aft to a purchase or winch to allow tensioning or 
relaxing.

First, a primer on some generic rig types.  

1. Mast with split lower shrouds.  Upper shroud attaches to point on deck dead 
abeam of mast then carries upward to spreader(s) then to top of mast.  Fore and 
aft lower shrouds attach to points on deck forward and aft of upper shroud 
attachment.

2. Mast with inline shrouds and swept back spreader(s).   All shrouds are 
attached to same point at deck somewhat aft of mast.  Spreaders are angled aft 
from mast.

3. Mast with inline shrouds and straight spreaders.  All shrouds are attached 
to same point at deck dead abeam of mast.  Spreaders are straight, not angled.


OK.  In configuration 1, the middle of the mast is stabilized by the lower 
shrouds.  This configuration rarely pumps unless the lower shrouds are loose.

In configuration 2, the mast is bent by tightening the shrouds.  The tension on 
the shrouds pushes forward on the spreaders resulting in the middle of the mast 
being pushed foreward.  These rigs are somewhat subject to pumping.  You may or 
may not see babystays or running backs.  

Configuration 3 is most subject to pumping.  With inline shrouds and straight 
spreaders, there is nothing to stabilize the middle of the mast fore and aft.  
If the mast extrusion is bendy, it will bend back and forth, hence pumping.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



>
> From: Stevan Plavsa 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 10:19 AM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
> 
>
>What exactly is mast pumping?
>The early 32's seemed to not come with baby stays but I believe the later ones 
>did. I've also read that the 32 is "prone to mast pumping" but I don't know 
>what that means :)
>I have an idea, but I don't really know. Mine is an early one with no baby 
>stay. However, there is a funny little attachment point (female, threaded, 
>~1/2") on the floor inside the vee birth that I have no idea what it's for, 
>maybe related, maybe not.
>
>
>Thanks,
>Steve
>C&C 32
>Toronto
>
>
>
>On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 10:34 AM, Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR 
> wrote:
>
>This may come across as pedanticbut have you ever tried to cut
>>dyneema?
>>
>>That stuff is *hard* on knives.I have a Spanish steel bladed (like
>>they use for swords), and I can only make 1 splice before it's time to
>>reshapen.
>>
>>I've switched to utility knives, and go thru at least 1 blade (usually
>>both tips) every splice.
>>
>>So..yeah, it's "fabric" in the sense that it's not metal, but It's
>>insanely resilient and tough.
>>
>>For babystay, I'd switch in a heart beat, if I hadn't replaced it with
>>wire only a few years ago before I was hooked on spectra.
>>
>>And that's the new name for my next rock band: "Hooked on spectra"
>>
>>-Keith
>>
>>
>>-Original Message-
>>From: Pat Nevitt [mailto:pnev...@gmail.com]
>>Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 9:11
>>To: Law Office of Craig Meyerson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>Subject: Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
>>
>>I have a 29-2 that has a baby stay on it.  The stay normally stays
>>shackled to the mast base except in heavier air when I run the shackle
>>to a ring in the center of the deck.  The stay is cable to a series of
>>blocks that give me 4:1 purchase and aline that runs back to the cockpit
>>through a rope clutch.  Whether you need it or not depends on how much
>>wind you get.  Here on the Chesapeake I rarely use it.  During the race
>>last Sunday however with winds at 16-19, gusts to 24, we put it on when
>>going upwind and it really helps flatten the mainsail.  With the setup I
>>have it is really easy to release the clutch to take the tension off the
>>shackle and then run the shackle back to the mast for the downwind run.
>>I don't know about using Dynema.  The thing that bothers me about that
>>is that at the end of the day, it is still fabric and something sharp
>>can cut it and destroy it.
>>
>>Pat Nevitt
>>Patriot
>>C&C 29 MKII
>>Galesville MD
>>
>>
>>On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 7:40 AM, Law Office of Craig Meyerson
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>        I installed a traveler track from the mast base to the forward
>>most point on the deck I wanted the baby stay to reach on my old C&C 34.
>>Put an adjustable car on the track controlled from the cockpit.  Used
>>dyneema for the stay.  Downwind adjusted the car aft to get out of the
>>way for dip-pole jibing and aft pole adjustment.  Worked very well.
>>Should be helpful for end to end jibing too.  The dyneema was on its
>>fourth season when I sold the boat.
>>
>>        Baby stay reduces mast pumping upwind, so I would not remove it.
>>
>>
>>         Craig Meyerson
>>        C&C 115 Souvenir
>

Re: Stus-List Electric Fuel pumps.

[Frederick G Street]

Rich -- which capacity pump did you buy?

-- Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


In a message dated 10/18/2012 9:56:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
r...@sailpower.ca writes:
FYI: I went looking for an electric fuel pump to assist in bleeding the air out 
of my diesel system and to act as a fuel pump if the mechanical unit decided to 
go on strike.

 

The best I found and the one I went with is a Facet solid state pump purchased 
from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Company.

 

See: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catorder.php

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay

[Ronald B. Frerker]

The mast extrusion is an important part.The C&C 30-1 has config. 3 but has a 
tree trunk for a mast.  No pumping, but then one can't achieve any mast bend 
either.  Backstay only tightens forestay; doesn't induce any bend.RonWild 
CheriC&C 30-1STL

--- On Thu, 10/18/12, Dennis C.  wrote:

From: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Date: Thursday, October 18, 2012, 10:55 AM

Steve,
Mast pumping is when the middle of the mast moves fore and aft as the boat hits 
waves or is subjected to sudden puffs.  Pumping is minimized by babystays or 
running backs.  Running backs are lines or wires attached at stress points on 
the mast which then run aft to a purchase or winch to allow tensioning or 
relaxing.
First, a primer on some generic rig types.  
1. Mast with split lower shrouds.  Upper shroud attaches to point on deck dead 
abeam of mast then carries upward to spreader(s) then to top of mast.  Fore and 
aft lower shrouds attach to points on deck forward and aft of upper shroud 
attachment.
2. Mast with inline shrouds and swept back spreader(s).   All shrouds are 
attached to same point at deck somewhat aft of mast.  Spreaders are angled aft 
from mast.
3. Mast with inline shrouds and straight spreaders.  All shrouds are attached 
to same point at deck dead abeam of mast.  Spreaders are straight, not angled.

OK.  In configuration 1, the middle of the mast is stabilized by the lower 
shrouds.  This configuration rarely pumps unless the lower shrouds are loose.
In configuration 2, the mast is bent by tightening the shrouds.  The tension on 
the shrouds pushes forward on the spreaders resulting in the middle of the mast 
being pushed foreward.  These rigs are somewhat subject to pumping.  You may or 
may not see babystays or running backs.  
Configuration
 3 is most subject to pumping.  With inline shrouds and straight spreaders, 
there is nothing to stabilize the middle of the mast fore and aft.  If the mast 
extrusion is bendy, it will bend back and forth, hence pumping.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
From: Stevan Plavsa 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 10:19 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
   

What exactly is mast pumping?The early 32's seemed to not come with baby stays 
but I believe the later ones did. I've also read that the 32 is "prone to mast 
pumping" but I don't know what that means :)
I have an idea, but I don't really know. Mine is an early one with no baby 
stay. However, there is a funny little attachment point (female, threaded, 
~1/2") on the floor inside the vee birth that I have no idea what it's for, 
maybe related, maybe not.

Thanks,SteveC&C 32Toronto

On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 10:34 AM, Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR 
 wrote:

This may come across as pedanticbut have you ever tried to cut

dyneema?



That stuff is *hard* on knives.I have a Spanish steel bladed (like

they use for swords), and I can only make 1 splice before it's time to

reshapen.



I've switched to utility knives, and go thru at least 1 blade (usually

both tips) every splice.



So..yeah, it's "fabric" in the sense that it's not metal, but It's

insanely resilient and tough.



For babystay, I'd switch in a heart beat, if I hadn't replaced it with

wire only a few years ago before I was hooked on spectra.



And that's the new name for my next rock band: "Hooked on spectra"



-Keith



-Original Message-

From: Pat Nevitt [mailto:pnev...@gmail.com]

Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 9:11

To: Law Office of Craig Meyerson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay



I have a 29-2 that has a baby stay on it.  The stay normally stays

shackled to the mast base except in heavier air when I run the shackle

to a ring in the center of the deck.  The stay is cable to a series of

blocks that give me 4:1 purchase and aline that runs back to the cockpit

through a rope clutch.  Whether you need it or not depends on how much

wind you get.  Here on the Chesapeake I rarely use it.  During the race

last Sunday however with winds at 16-19, gusts to 24, we put it on when

going upwind and it really helps flatten the mainsail.  With the setup I

have it is really easy to release the clutch to take the tension off the

shackle and then run the shackle back to the mast for the downwind run.

I don't know about using Dynema.  The thing that bothers me about that

is that at the end of the day, it is still fabric and something sharp

can cut it and destroy it.



Pat Nevitt

Patriot

C&C 29 MKII

Galesville MD





On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 7:40 AM, Law Office of Craig Meyerson

 wrote:





        I installed a traveler track from the mast base to the forward

most point on the deck I wanted the baby stay to reach on my old C&C 34.

Put an adjustable car on the track controlled from the cockpit.  Used

dyneema for the stay.  Downwind adjusted the car aft to get out of the

way for dip-pole jib

Re: Stus-List Electric Fuel pumps.

[Rich Knowles]

I don't have the precise info immediately at hand, but I do recall getting the 
lowest capacity they sell. I'll check when I get home. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2012-10-18, at 13:00, Frederick G Street  wrote:

Rich -- which capacity pump did you buy?

-- Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


In a message dated 10/18/2012 9:56:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
r...@sailpower.ca writes:
FYI: I went looking for an electric fuel pump to assist in bleeding the air out 
of my diesel system and to act as a fuel pump if the mechanical unit decided to 
go on strike.

 

The best I found and the one I went with is a Facet solid state pump purchased 
from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Company.

 

See: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catorder.php

> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay

[Stevan Plavsa]

Thanks for the detailed explanation Dennis!
I have setup #3, just like Ron and I consider my mast to be a tree trunk as
well. I haven't noticed any movement in the mast but maybe I just don't
have enough experience to see it. I haven't spent much time sailing on many
other boats, only a few and only briefly. My frame of reference is very
limited.

Steve
C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 12:18 PM, Ronald B. Frerker wrote:

> The mast extrusion is an important part.
> The C&C 30-1 has config. 3 but has a tree trunk for a mast.  No pumping,
> but then one can't achieve any mast bend either.  Backstay only tightens
> forestay; doesn't induce any bend.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> STL
>
>
> --- On *Thu, 10/18/12, Dennis C. * wrote:
>
>
> From: Dennis C. 
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Date: Thursday, October 18, 2012, 10:55 AM
>
>
> Steve,
>
> Mast pumping is when the middle of the mast moves fore and aft as the boat
> hits waves or is subjected to sudden puffs.  Pumping is minimized by
> babystays or running backs.  Running backs are lines or wires attached at
> stress points on the mast which then run aft to a purchase or winch to
> allow tensioning or relaxing.
>
> First, a primer on some generic rig types.
>
> 1. Mast with split lower shrouds.  Upper shroud attaches to point on deck
> dead abeam of mast then carries upward to spreader(s) then to top of mast.
>  Fore and aft lower shrouds attach to points on deck forward and aft of
> upper shroud attachment.
>
> 2. Mast with inline shrouds and swept back spreader(s).   All shrouds are
> attached to same point at deck somewhat aft of mast.  Spreaders are angled
> aft from mast.
>
> 3. Mast with inline shrouds and straight spreaders.  All shrouds are
> attached to same point at deck dead abeam of mast.  Spreaders are straight,
> not angled.
>
> OK.  In configuration 1, the middle of the mast is stabilized by the lower
> shrouds.  This configuration rarely pumps unless the lower shrouds are
> loose.
>
> In configuration 2, the mast is bent by tightening the shrouds.  The
> tension on the shrouds pushes forward on the spreaders resulting in the
> middle of the mast being pushed foreward.  These rigs are somewhat subject
> to pumping.  You may or may not see babystays or running backs.
>
> Configuration 3 is most subject to pumping.  With inline shrouds and
> straight spreaders, there is nothing to stabilize the middle of the mast
> fore and aft.  If the mast extrusion is bendy, it will bend back and forth,
> hence pumping.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>   --
> *From:* Stevan Plavsa 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 18, 2012 10:19 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
>
> What exactly is mast pumping?
> The early 32's seemed to not come with baby stays but I believe the later
> ones did. I've also read that the 32 is "prone to mast pumping" but I don't
> know what that means :)
> I have an idea, but I don't really know. Mine is an early one with no baby
> stay. However, there is a funny little attachment point (female, threaded,
> ~1/2") on the floor inside the vee birth that I have no idea what it's for,
> maybe related, maybe not.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 10:34 AM, Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR <
> keith.morgenst...@navy.mil
> > wrote:
>
> This may come across as pedanticbut have you ever tried to cut
> dyneema?
>
> That stuff is *hard* on knives.I have a Spanish steel bladed (like
> they use for swords), and I can only make 1 splice before it's time to
> reshapen.
>
> I've switched to utility knives, and go thru at least 1 blade (usually
> both tips) every splice.
>
> So..yeah, it's "fabric" in the sense that it's not metal, but It's
> insanely resilient and tough.
>
> For babystay, I'd switch in a heart beat, if I hadn't replaced it with
> wire only a few years ago before I was hooked on spectra.
>
> And that's the new name for my next rock band: "Hooked on spectra"
>
> -Keith
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Pat Nevitt 
> [mailto:pnev...@gmail.com
> ]
> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 9:11
> To: Law Office of Craig Meyerson; 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
>
> I have a 29-2 that has a baby stay on it.  The stay normally stays
> shackled to the mast base except in heavier air when I run the shackle
> to a ring in the center of the deck.  The stay is cable to a series of
> blocks that give me 4:1 purchase and aline that runs back to the cockpit
> through a rope clutch.  Whether you need it or not depends on how much
> wind you get.  Here on the Chesapeake I rarely use it.  During the race
> last Sunday however with winds at 16-19, gusts to 24, we put it on when
> going upwind and it really h

Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay

[Tim Goodyear]

I haven't experienced a problem with mast pumping on my 35-3, but I value
the baby stay for being able to change mainsail shape by bending the mast -
it's not only about pumping.  Interestingly, the mast is also set up for
checkstay (not formally a running backstay) attachment points at the second
spreaders, but there's no evidence they've ever been installed.

Tim
Mojito
1984 35-3
Branford, CT

On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 11:55 AM, Dennis C.  wrote:

> Steve,
>
> Mast pumping is when the middle of the mast moves fore and aft as the boat
> hits waves or is subjected to sudden puffs.  Pumping is minimized by
> babystays or running backs.  Running backs are lines or wires attached at
> stress points on the mast which then run aft to a purchase or winch to
> allow tensioning or relaxing.
>
> First, a primer on some generic rig types.
>
> 1. Mast with split lower shrouds.  Upper shroud attaches to point on deck
> dead abeam of mast then carries upward to spreader(s) then to top of mast.
>  Fore and aft lower shrouds attach to points on deck forward and aft of
> upper shroud attachment.
>
> 2. Mast with inline shrouds and swept back spreader(s).   All shrouds are
> attached to same point at deck somewhat aft of mast.  Spreaders are angled
> aft from mast.
>
> 3. Mast with inline shrouds and straight spreaders.  All shrouds are
> attached to same point at deck dead abeam of mast.  Spreaders are straight,
> not angled.
>
> OK.  In configuration 1, the middle of the mast is stabilized by the lower
> shrouds.  This configuration rarely pumps unless the lower shrouds are
> loose.
>
> In configuration 2, the mast is bent by tightening the shrouds.  The
> tension on the shrouds pushes forward on the spreaders resulting in the
> middle of the mast being pushed foreward.  These rigs are somewhat subject
> to pumping.  You may or may not see babystays or running backs.
>
> Configuration 3 is most subject to pumping.  With inline shrouds and
> straight spreaders, there is nothing to stabilize the middle of the mast
> fore and aft.  If the mast extrusion is bendy, it will bend back and forth,
> hence pumping.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>   --
> *From:* Stevan Plavsa 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 18, 2012 10:19 AM
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
>
> What exactly is mast pumping?
> The early 32's seemed to not come with baby stays but I believe the later
> ones did. I've also read that the 32 is "prone to mast pumping" but I don't
> know what that means :)
> I have an idea, but I don't really know. Mine is an early one with no baby
> stay. However, there is a funny little attachment point (female, threaded,
> ~1/2") on the floor inside the vee birth that I have no idea what it's for,
> maybe related, maybe not.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 10:34 AM, Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR <
> keith.morgenst...@navy.mil> wrote:
>
> This may come across as pedanticbut have you ever tried to cut
> dyneema?
>
> That stuff is *hard* on knives.I have a Spanish steel bladed (like
> they use for swords), and I can only make 1 splice before it's time to
> reshapen.
>
> I've switched to utility knives, and go thru at least 1 blade (usually
> both tips) every splice.
>
> So..yeah, it's "fabric" in the sense that it's not metal, but It's
> insanely resilient and tough.
>
> For babystay, I'd switch in a heart beat, if I hadn't replaced it with
> wire only a few years ago before I was hooked on spectra.
>
> And that's the new name for my next rock band: "Hooked on spectra"
>
> -Keith
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Pat Nevitt [mailto:pnev...@gmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 9:11
> To: Law Office of Craig Meyerson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
>
> I have a 29-2 that has a baby stay on it.  The stay normally stays
> shackled to the mast base except in heavier air when I run the shackle
> to a ring in the center of the deck.  The stay is cable to a series of
> blocks that give me 4:1 purchase and aline that runs back to the cockpit
> through a rope clutch.  Whether you need it or not depends on how much
> wind you get.  Here on the Chesapeake I rarely use it.  During the race
> last Sunday however with winds at 16-19, gusts to 24, we put it on when
> going upwind and it really helps flatten the mainsail.  With the setup I
> have it is really easy to release the clutch to take the tension off the
> shackle and then run the shackle back to the mast for the downwind run.
> I don't know about using Dynema.  The thing that bothers me about that
> is that at the end of the day, it is still fabric and something sharp
> can cut it and destroy it.
>
> Pat Nevitt
> Patriot
> C&C 29 MKII
> Galesville MD
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 7:40 AM, Law Office of Craig Meyerson
>  wrote:
>
>
> I installed a traveler track from the mast base to the forward
> most p

Stus-List Hmm. Oracle AC72 flipped and sunk...

[Wally Bryant]

Yeah, well, hmm. Personally, I think that they should rewrite the AC 
rules so that you have to sail a used IOR era boat.  


Wal


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Hmm. Oracle AC72 flipped and sunk...

[Frederick G Street]

Yeah, I could just see you and Larry Ellison talking smack about each other at 
the press conference...   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Oct 18, 2012, at 2:34 PM, Wally Bryant wrote:

> Yeah, well, hmm. Personally, I think that they should rewrite the AC rules so 
> that you have to sail a used IOR era boat.  
> 
> Wal
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Hmm. Oracle AC72 flipped and sunk...

[Hoyt, Mike]

I thnk they should go back to something resembling the old format where
there was a challenger series and a defender series with nations
competing against each other not corporations.
 
.. and real boats



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Frederick G Street
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 4:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hmm. Oracle AC72 flipped and sunk...


Yeah, I could just see you and Larry Ellison talking smack about each
other at the press conference...   :^)


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Oct 18, 2012, at 2:34 PM, Wally Bryant wrote:


Yeah, well, hmm. Personally, I think that they should rewrite
the AC rules so that you have to sail a used IOR era boat.  

Wal

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Hmm. Oracle AC72 flipped and sunk...

[Rich Knowles]

LF38?  Good idea. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2012-10-18, at 16:34, Wally Bryant  wrote:

Yeah, well, hmm. Personally, I think that they should rewrite the AC rules so 
that you have to sail a used IOR era boat.  

Wal


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay

[Leslie Paal]

That is the attachment point for the rod extension of the babystay, inside.  
There maybe something above it for the deck attachment point.  Mine has the 
babystay and if you are interested I can take pictures.

Leslie
Phoenix, C&C32 (1983)




 From: Stevan Plavsa 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 8:19 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
 

What exactly is mast pumping?
The early 32's seemed to not come with baby stays but I believe the later ones 
did. I've also read that the 32 is "prone to mast pumping" but I don't know 
what that means :)
I have an idea, but I don't really know. Mine is an early one with no baby 
stay. However, there is a funny little attachment point (female, threaded, 
~1/2") on the floor inside the vee birth that I have no idea what it's for, 
maybe related, maybe not.

Thanks,
Steve
C&C 32
Toronto



On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 10:34 AM, Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR 
 wrote:

This may come across as pedanticbut have you ever tried to cut
>dyneema?
>
>That stuff is *hard* on knives.I have a Spanish steel bladed (like
>they use for swords), and I can only make 1 splice before it's time to
>reshapen.
>
>I've switched to utility knives, and go thru at least 1 blade (usually
>both tips) every splice.
>
>So..yeah, it's "fabric" in the sense that it's not metal, but It's
>insanely resilient and tough.
>
>For babystay, I'd switch in a heart beat, if I hadn't replaced it with
>wire only a few years ago before I was hooked on spectra.
>
>And that's the new name for my next rock band: "Hooked on spectra"
>
>-Keith
>
>
>-Original Message-
>From: Pat Nevitt [mailto:pnev...@gmail.com]
>Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 9:11
>To: Law Office of Craig Meyerson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
>
>I have a 29-2 that has a baby stay on it.  The stay normally stays
>shackled to the mast base except in heavier air when I run the shackle
>to a ring in the center of the deck.  The stay is cable to a series of
>blocks that give me 4:1 purchase and aline that runs back to the cockpit
>through a rope clutch.  Whether you need it or not depends on how much
>wind you get.  Here on the Chesapeake I rarely use it.  During the race
>last Sunday however with winds at 16-19, gusts to 24, we put it on when
>going upwind and it really helps flatten the mainsail.  With the setup I
>have it is really easy to release the clutch to take the tension off the
>shackle and then run the shackle back to the mast for the downwind run.
>I don't know about using Dynema.  The thing that bothers me about that
>is that at the end of the day, it is still fabric and something sharp
>can cut it and destroy it.
>
>Pat Nevitt
>Patriot
>C&C 29 MKII
>Galesville MD
>
>
>On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 7:40 AM, Law Office of Craig Meyerson
> wrote:
>
>
>        I installed a traveler track from the mast base to the forward
>most point on the deck I wanted the baby stay to reach on my old C&C 34.
>Put an adjustable car on the track controlled from the cockpit.  Used
>dyneema for the stay.  Downwind adjusted the car aft to get out of the
>way for dip-pole jibing and aft pole adjustment.  Worked very well.
>Should be helpful for end to end jibing too.  The dyneema was on its
>fourth season when I sold the boat.
>
>        Baby stay reduces mast pumping upwind, so I would not remove it.
>
>
>         Craig Meyerson
>        C&C 115 Souvenir
>
>
>        From: dwight veinot 
>        To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>        Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2012 6:28 PM
>
>        Subject: Re: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
>
>
>        Won't be much easier
>
>        Dwight Veinot
>        C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
>        Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
>        -Original Message-
>        From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf
>Of
>        dre...@gmail.com
>        Sent: October 17, 2012 10:10 AM
>        To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>        Subject: Stus-List Dyneema baby stay
>
>        Hi,
>
>        I am looking for a solution to help make my baby stay more
>easily removable.
>        I presently have a standard 1x19 SS cable turn buckle set up,
>and I plan to
>        install a pelican-like hook attachment.  I have a colleague who
>is
>        replacing his SS lifelines with Dyneema line.  This got me to
>think about
>        using Dyneema for the baby stay.    Does anyone have any
>experience in using
>        a Dyneema solution for any rigging arrangements?
>
>
>        -
>        Paul E.
>        1979 C&C 29 Mk1
>        S/V Johanna Rose
>        Carrabelle, FL
>
>
>        ___
>        This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
>        http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
>
>        CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>        -
>        No virus found in this message.
>        Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>        Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2441/5336 - Release Date:
>10

Re: Stus-List Hmm. Oracle AC72 flipped and sunk...

[Frederick G Street]

All us LF38'ers on the list could start our own series.  I'll host in Bayfield, 
WI on Lake Superior next summer...  then it'll be off to Mexico with Wal, and 
then the Maritimes with Rich; then west to Frank.

Who else is in?   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Oct 18, 2012, at 2:48 PM, Rich Knowles wrote:

> LF38?  Good idea.
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Electric Fuel pumps.

[Rich Knowles]

Fred:  I got a Facet 40104 pump. Comes primed with some sort of diesel like 
fluid and works fine. You will need the correct barb or other fittings. Readily 
available. Don't forget to use the right type of Teflon tape for diesel. 

Makes bleeding air almost fun. 

AIC here we come. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2012-10-18, at 13:00, Frederick G Street  wrote:

Rich -- which capacity pump did you buy?

-- Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


In a message dated 10/18/2012 9:56:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
r...@sailpower.ca writes:
FYI: I went looking for an electric fuel pump to assist in bleeding the air out 
of my diesel system and to act as a fuel pump if the mechanical unit decided to 
go on strike.

 

The best I found and the one I went with is a Facet solid state pump purchased 
from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Company.

 

See: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catorder.php

> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List New sail purchase

[Jim and Micki Reinardy]

Sebastian,

We had a North 3DL Marathon genoa on our Catalina 27 and liked it a lot.  I 
think that would fall in category 3 below.  We sailed it for 4 seasons before 
selling the boat and it still looked nearly new.  We are casual racers as well 
as occasional cruisers.  Now that we have upgraded to a C&C 30-2, I assume a 
sister ship to yours, we are considering purchasing another one or something 
similar.  

Our debate is how big.  We get a fair number of light air races on Friday 
nights in Milwaukee, so my temptation is to go 150.  Many of our races are jib 
and main only, which puts us at a disadvantage on the downwinds with anything 
less.  However, I don't care for the way our deck attached Tape Drive 150 
flies, since it tends to wind up against the chainplates on the upwind.  I am 
thinking a roller furling sail would be more successful as it is higher.  After 
winning our division on the Catalina 2 seasons ago, we took a big step back 
this year, and I was never happy with the shape of the genoa, among other 
things. 









   

I would be curious to know your logic in going with a 135, if you would be 
willing to share that.  We love our 30-2, but are definitely still figuring her 
out!

Jim Reinardy
1988 C&C 30 Mk II "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 17, 2012, at 8:00 AM, Sébastien Lemieux  wrote:

> Hello Bev, 
> 
> I am currently going through the same process for my furling genoa.  I've 
> obtained quotes and been discussing with quite a few lofts (some local, some 
> less locals).  I've come to the c onclusion that a 135% would be a good size 
> to go with (we have a 100% jib and an asym spi).  We also do essentially 
> weekend cruising with quite a few day sails, no racing on the horizon.  Our 
> boat is a C&C 30-mk2 of 1987.
> 
> I have been considering three sail types and I haven't finalized my decision 
> yet, so I'll throw in the arguments I have for each:
> 
> 1) A classic cross-cut dacron sail.  The least expensive option at each loft. 
>  Prices can vary from loft to loft but if more than 5% variation, then there 
> are differences in the construction.  Some lofts would suggest using rather 
> thin 5 oz. cloths, most preferred to go with 7-7.3 oz since we would favor 
> using the spi when going with the wind and a heavier cloth would be more 
> durable and more forgiving for the beginners we are (3 years with the boat so 
> far, first boat).  Some lofts offer different levels of "firmness" of the 
> cloth, usually with a price premium (around 10% extra) and I've come to the 
> conclusion that this upgrade makes sense (the sail should hold better shape 
> for longer in higher winds).
> 
> 2) A tri-radial design using fill-oriented dacron (UK Halsey warp drive or 
> North Radian).  From the quotes we have, price is about 30% more than for the 
> cross cut dacron.  The sail should hold its shape much better and should be 
> as (if not more) durable than the classic cross-cut.  The sails for which we 
> received quotes where all made in Asia.  North said that any repairs or 
> adjustments need to be done at their headquarter in Connecticut.
> 
> 3) A cross-cut sail using cruising oriented laminates.  Here the cloth is a 
> laminate that includes fibers supporting the loads in directions that are 
> aligned with tensions applied on a sail (see pdf brochure from Polyant: 
> http://www.dimension-polyant.com/en/pdf/DP_Flex_Polyester_Cruise_E.pdf ).  It 
> is called a cruising laminate because it is protected on both side by a 
> weaved taffeta that protects the laminate from chafe.  This allows the sail 
> to be made using the less labor intensive cross cut construction.  I have a 
> quote from Haarstick (Rochester, NY) that comes up to about 25% more than the 
> classic dacron cross-cut.  The sail should hold much better shape and it 
> seems that with each new generation of laminates designed for cruising, the 
> durability increases.
> 
> The level of discussion I had with each sailmaker varies a lot (both in 
> verbosity and quality).  The most informative discussions I've had has been 
> with Haarstick ( http://www.haarsticksailmakers.com ) where Doug Burtner has 
> provided a

Stus-List Thank You

[Stu]

To everyone who attended the 2012 North East Rendezvous, and other C&C Owners, 
who have made financial contributions to the C&C Photo Album over the past year:

Thank YOU

Your contributions help make the Photo Album one of the most visited sailing 
sites on the internet.  

Again, thank you for your support – I cannot express my gratitude enough.

Fair winds to all 

Stu ___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Stus-List Keel/Hull join

[Robert Abbott]

Our boat was trucked from Racine, Wisconsin, a long ride and you have to 
assume there is going to be some movement re the keel and hull.  Upon 
arrival, as expected, there was the usual keel joint crack along the 
front 2/3rd.had the keel bolts torqued which closed the gap then I 
took the angle grinder and cleaned the surface 2" above and below the 
crack then took 'glass mat cloth' soaked in West System resin and 
wrapped all the way around the keel and keel box (crack)let that 
cure overnight and then took some thickened West resin and faired over 
the clothnext day faired that with a palm sander and it has been 
that way for the past 7 sailing seasons.no 'smile', no 'crack', no 
Spring hassle.


Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2012/10/18 9:45 AM, Hoyt, Mike wrote:

Chuck
My old Niagara 26 once had a leaking joint and torquing bolts solved 
that but it needed rebedding.  I loosened nuts 2 inches, raised boat 
1.5 inches, cleaned the gap, filled with 5200, dropped the boat and 
retorqued.  Never had a problem again.  A lot easier to do in a 4000lb 
26 foot boat
On current boat there are no leaks and bolts are tight.  I always get 
a small crack in fairing on leading 1/3 of keel at keel hull joint.  
Have used G Flex thickened with West 407 the last two seasons to 
refair which has helped but not stopped the crack.  Am interested to 
hear more of the reinforced cloth style job done on Resolute.  May put 
a couple layers of glass in rather than thickened epoxy.  Joint seems 
sound and is not a lot of movement but would be nice to know it does 
not crack every year.  This is on my J/27.

Mike

*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Chuck S

*Sent:* Wednesday, October 17, 2012 12:15 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 115 new keel joint video

Good video.  Did they wrap the keel joint with glass?  Missed seeing 
the fairing process.


Resolute used to require an annual grind and refairing.  It never 
leaked, but the joint opened up each year from sailing pressure on 
that long lever.  When Resolute had keel work, the yard wrapped the 
joint with two layers of re-enforced fiberglass.  I've touched bottom 
since and she remains very strong w no sign of the old joint.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Stus-List Miscellaneous

[Robert Abbott]

Because of excessive mussel growth on my prop and prop shaft the past 
several seasons, this past Spring I tried something new, namely applying 
"lanolin" to themboat was hauled this week and I can report that the 
lanolin was not very effective.there were approx. 3 dozen mussels 
attached to the prop and the prop shaft was covered as well.


On another note, applied Micron 66 antifouling paint to the boat this 
past Spring (have been using Micron CSC for over 12 
years).absolutely no growth of any kindand specifically no 
'slime' which is common with the CSC.the bottom looks like it did 
when it was painted in the Spring and I only applied a very light coat 
of the '66' (actually diluted it approx. 10%)it is incredible 
antifouling paint.only regret is that it is not sold in Canada.


And, after 7 sailing seasons, I decided  to check the air filter on the 
Yanmar 2GMF.took the cover off to discover there was no 'actual 
filter' in the metal casing...ooops!  There will be by next Spring.


Lastly, how often do you guys changedthe impeller in the raw water 
pump?  Not what the specs recommend but actually how often.every 
year, 2 years, 5 years, 10 years?


Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List New sail purchase

[Bob Moriarty]

If you're racing, why not go 155 (or 145)? The PHRF cutoffs (at least
where I am in FL) are at those values.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 5:29 PM, Jim and Micki Reinardy
 wrote:
 ... so my temptation is to go 150.

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Thank You

[Dennis C.]

Our sincere thanks to you, Stu, for putting in all the effort to develop the 
site and keep it running as a valuable resource for us.  We truly appreciate it.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




>
> From: Stu 
>To: C&C Email List  
>Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 5:34 PM
>Subject: Stus-List Thank You
> 
>
>To everyone who attended the 2012 North East Rendezvous, and other C&C 
Owners, who have made financial contributions to the C&C Photo Album over 
the past year:
> 
>Thank YOU
> 
>Your contributions help make the Photo Album 
one of the most visited sailing sites on the internet.  
> 
>Again, thank you for your support – I cannot express my gratitude 
enough.
> 
>Fair winds to all 
> 
>Stu 
>___
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Miscellaneous

[Graham Collins]

Bob, are you using illegal bottom paint???  Who is your dealer???

Seriously though.  Impeller, I've been going 2 years of May - October 
season.  And since you see me heading out a fair bit you must know my 
frequency of using the boat...


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11


Robert Abbott wrote:
Because of excessive mussel growth on my prop and prop shaft the past 
several seasons, this past Spring I tried something new, namely 
applying "lanolin" to themboat was hauled this week and I can 
report that the lanolin was not very effective.there were approx. 
3 dozen mussels attached to the prop and the prop shaft was covered as 
well.


On another note, applied Micron 66 antifouling paint to the boat this 
past Spring (have been using Micron CSC for over 12 
years).absolutely no growth of any kindand specifically no 
'slime' which is common with the CSC.the bottom looks like it did 
when it was painted in the Spring and I only applied a very light coat 
of the '66' (actually diluted it approx. 10%)it is incredible 
antifouling paint.only regret is that it is not sold in Canada.


And, after 7 sailing seasons, I decided  to check the air filter on 
the Yanmar 2GMF.took the cover off to discover there was no 
'actual filter' in the metal casing...ooops!  There will be by next 
Spring.


Lastly, how often do you guys changedthe impeller in the raw water 
pump?  Not what the specs recommend but actually how often.every 
year, 2 years, 5 years, 10 years?


Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com




___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Miscellaneous -impeller

[Martin DeYoung]

...how often do you guys change the impeller in the raw water 
pump?

I change Calypso's 4-108 raw water impeller at the start of each season then 
put the lightly used old one in the spares box.  It is also my practice to 
check the impeller prior to setting off on a longer trip where a sudden loss of 
cooling might be inconvenient.

There has been a year or so where I did not change the impeller in the spring 
and the impeller perform fine with no significant change in appearance.

I change the impeller after each time I forget to open the raw water inlet thru 
hull valve and allowed the engine to run without cooling water for more than a 
few minutes.

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Abbott
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 5:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Miscellaneous

Because of excessive mussel growth on my prop and prop shaft the past 
several seasons, this past Spring I tried something new, namely applying 
"lanolin" to themboat was hauled this week and I can report that the 
lanolin was not very effective.there were approx. 3 dozen mussels 
attached to the prop and the prop shaft was covered as well.

On another note, applied Micron 66 antifouling paint to the boat this 
past Spring (have been using Micron CSC for over 12 
years).absolutely no growth of any kindand specifically no 
'slime' which is common with the CSC.the bottom looks like it did 
when it was painted in the Spring and I only applied a very light coat 
of the '66' (actually diluted it approx. 10%)it is incredible 
antifouling paint.only regret is that it is not sold in Canada.

And, after 7 sailing seasons, I decided  to check the air filter on the 
Yanmar 2GMF.took the cover off to discover there was no 'actual 
filter' in the metal casing...ooops!  There will be by next Spring.

Lastly, how often do you guys changedthe impeller in the raw water 
pump?  Not what the specs recommend but actually how often.every 
year, 2 years, 5 years, 10 years?

Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Miscellaneous now impeller frequency

[Indigo]

I change mine every year. I feel that having the blades stuck in the same 
position for the winter months cannot be good so changing the impeller is on my 
spring checklist. 
--
Jonathan
Indigo - 35MkIII

On Oct 18, 2012, at 20:49, Graham Collins  wrote:

> Bob, are you using illegal bottom paint???  Who is your dealer???
> 
> Seriously though.  Impeller, I've been going 2 years of May - October season. 
>  And since you see me heading out a fair bit you must know my frequency of 
> using the boat...
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> 
> 
> Robert Abbott wrote:
>> Because of excessive mussel growth on my prop and prop shaft the past 
>> several seasons, this past Spring I tried something new, namely applying 
>> "lanolin" to themboat was hauled this week and I can report that the 
>> lanolin was not very effective.there were approx. 3 dozen mussels 
>> attached to the prop and the prop shaft was covered as well.
>> 
>> On another note, applied Micron 66 antifouling paint to the boat this past 
>> Spring (have been using Micron CSC for over 12 years).absolutely no 
>> growth of any kindand specifically no 'slime' which is common with the 
>> CSC.the bottom looks like it did when it was painted in the Spring and I 
>> only applied a very light coat of the '66' (actually diluted it approx. 
>> 10%)it is incredible antifouling paint.only regret is that it is not 
>> sold in Canada.
>> 
>> And, after 7 sailing seasons, I decided  to check the air filter on the 
>> Yanmar 2GMF.took the cover off to discover there was no 'actual filter' 
>> in the metal casing...ooops!  There will be by next Spring.
>> 
>> Lastly, how often do you guys changedthe impeller in the raw water pump?  
>> Not what the specs recommend but actually how often.every year, 2 years, 
>> 5 years, 10 years?
>> 
>> Bob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Miscellaneous -impeller

[Dennis C.]

I inspect mine every spring.  Touche' is active all year so the impeller 
remains flexible.  I replace it every 2-3 years.  I keep a new one and the 
previously replaced one in the spares box.


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




>
> From: Martin DeYoung 
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
>Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 8:04 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Miscellaneous -impeller
> 
>...how often do you guys change the impeller in the raw water 
>pump?
>
>I change Calypso's 4-108 raw water impeller at the start of each season then 
>put the lightly used old one in the spares box.  It is also my practice to 
>check the impeller prior to setting off on a longer trip where a sudden loss 
>of cooling might be inconvenient.
>
>There has been a year or so where I did not change the impeller in the spring 
>and the impeller perform fine with no significant change in appearance.
>
>I change the impeller after each time I forget to open the raw water inlet 
>thru hull valve and allowed the engine to run without cooling water for more 
>than a few minutes.
>
>Martin
>Calypso
>1970 C&C 43
>Seattle
>
>-Original Message-
>From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
>Abbott
>Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 5:24 PM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Stus-List Miscellaneous
>
>Because of excessive mussel growth on my prop and prop shaft the past 
>several seasons, this past Spring I tried something new, namely applying 
>"lanolin" to themboat was hauled this week and I can report that the 
>lanolin was not very effective.there were approx. 3 dozen mussels 
>attached to the prop and the prop shaft was covered as well.
>
>On another note, applied Micron 66 antifouling paint to the boat this 
>past Spring (have been using Micron CSC for over 12 
>years).absolutely no growth of any kindand specifically no 
>'slime' which is common with the CSC.the bottom looks like it did 
>when it was painted in the Spring and I only applied a very light coat 
>of the '66' (actually diluted it approx. 10%)it is incredible 
>antifouling paint.only regret is that it is not sold in Canada.
>
>And, after 7 sailing seasons, I decided  to check the air filter on the 
>Yanmar 2GMF.took the cover off to discover there was no 'actual 
>filter' in the metal casing...ooops!  There will be by next Spring.
>
>Lastly, how often do you guys changedthe impeller in the raw water 
>pump?  Not what the specs recommend but actually how often.every 
>year, 2 years, 5 years, 10 years?
>
>Bob Abbott
>AZURA
>C&C 32 - 84
>Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>___
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>___
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Miscellaneous -impeller

[Rich Knowles]

I check mine each season's end when I winterize. If it looks good, it goes back 
in. I have installed one new one in 15 years and that includes several runs of 
a few minutes each year without water. They are pretty durable. I check for 
cracking.  

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2012-10-18, at 22:04, Martin DeYoung  wrote:

...how often do you guys change the impeller in the raw water 
pump?

I change Calypso's 4-108 raw water impeller at the start of each season then 
put the lightly used old one in the spares box.  It is also my practice to 
check the impeller prior to setting off on a longer trip where a sudden loss of 
cooling might be inconvenient.

There has been a year or so where I did not change the impeller in the spring 
and the impeller perform fine with no significant change in appearance.

I change the impeller after each time I forget to open the raw water inlet thru 
hull valve and allowed the engine to run without cooling water for more than a 
few minutes.

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Abbott
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 5:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Miscellaneous

Because of excessive mussel growth on my prop and prop shaft the past 
several seasons, this past Spring I tried something new, namely applying 
"lanolin" to themboat was hauled this week and I can report that the 
lanolin was not very effective.there were approx. 3 dozen mussels 
attached to the prop and the prop shaft was covered as well.

On another note, applied Micron 66 antifouling paint to the boat this 
past Spring (have been using Micron CSC for over 12 
years).absolutely no growth of any kindand specifically no 
'slime' which is common with the CSC.the bottom looks like it did 
when it was painted in the Spring and I only applied a very light coat 
of the '66' (actually diluted it approx. 10%)it is incredible 
antifouling paint.only regret is that it is not sold in Canada.

And, after 7 sailing seasons, I decided  to check the air filter on the 
Yanmar 2GMF.took the cover off to discover there was no 'actual 
filter' in the metal casing...ooops!  There will be by next Spring.

Lastly, how often do you guys changedthe impeller in the raw water 
pump?  Not what the specs recommend but actually how often.every 
year, 2 years, 5 years, 10 years?

Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List New sail purchase

[James Reinardy]

Bob,

It's a fair question, I will have to look at the Lake Michigan PHRF cutoffs,
thanks.  In a general sense, we are wondering what fits the 30-2, and would
love to find any other owners who race.   The previous owner of our boat
never flew anything bigger than a 135 because thought that the boat did not
handle well with anything bigger.   Then again with a roller furling, it
seems like bigger is better, at least to 155%, you can always reef.

Jim

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Moriarty
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 7:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New sail purchase

If you're racing, why not go 155 (or 145)? The PHRF cutoffs (at least where
I am in FL) are at those values.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 5:29 PM, Jim and Micki Reinardy
 wrote:
 ... so my temptation is to go 150.

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List New sail purchase

[Alan Paul]

Here on the West Coast a 150+ would be a waste 95% of the time and make tacking 
much harder to boot. I would go for the 130 or 135 as the multi-purpose roller 
furling sail.  Later, get an asymetrical spin for really light air cruising.  
If you will be racing on a low budget, realize that you won't be perfect in all 
conditions.  Take care of the most usual.

Alan paul
C&C 37
Channel Islands Harbor, CA

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 18, 2012, at 6:44 PM, "James Reinardy"  wrote:

> Bob,
> 
> It's a fair question, I will have to look at the Lake Michigan PHRF cutoffs,
> thanks.  In a general sense, we are wondering what fits the 30-2, and would
> love to find any other owners who race.   The previous owner of our boat
> never flew anything bigger than a 135 because thought that the boat did not
> handle well with anything bigger.   Then again with a roller furling, it
> seems like bigger is better, at least to 155%, you can always reef.
> 
> Jim
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob
> Moriarty
> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 7:34 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List New sail purchase
> 
> If you're racing, why not go 155 (or 145)? The PHRF cutoffs (at least where
> I am in FL) are at those values.
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
> 
> On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 5:29 PM, Jim and Micki Reinardy
>  wrote:
> ... so my temptation is to go 150.
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Resolute Keel/Hull join - Q for Chuck

[Chuck S]

The controversy is created by glassing the joint and the thickness of glass and 
fairing material. Purest will insist the best airfoil shape is produced by the 
narrowest keel and least fairing. I like the result. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Mike Hoyt"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 8:45:59 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Resolute Keel/Hull join - Q for Chuck 


Chuck 

My old Niagara 26 once had a leaking joint and torquing bolts solved that but 
it needed rebedding. I loosened nuts 2 inches, raised boat 1.5 inches, cleaned 
the gap, filled with 5200, dropped the boat and retorqued. Never had a problem 
again. A lot easier to do in a 4000lb 26 foot boat 

On current boat there are no leaks and bolts are tight. I always get a small 
crack in fairing on leading 1/3 of keel at keel hull joint. Have used G Flex 
thickened with West 407 the last two seasons to refair which has helped but not 
stopped the crack. Am interested to hear more of the reinforced cloth style job 
done on Resolute. May put a couple layers of glass in rather than thickened 
epoxy. Joint seems sound and is not a lot of movement but would be nice to know 
it does not crack every year. This is on my J/27. 

Mike 



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S 
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2012 12:15 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 115 new keel joint video 



Good video. Did they wrap the keel joint with glass? Missed seeing the fairing 
process. 

Resolute used to require an annual grind and refairing. It never leaked, but 
the joint opened up each year from sailing pressure on that long lever. When 
Resolute had keel work, the yard wrapped the joint with two layers of 
re-enforced fiberglass. I've touched bottom since and she remains very strong w 
no sign of the old joint. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 

___ 
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com