Jim-

In my experience with setting up my fat bike tires tubeless, I definitely
needed a compressor to get them to seat.  I carry a tube in case the tire
does come off the rim, but I've never had that happen yet.

There are multiple methods to setup tubeless.  Some "factory" designs like
UST have specific rims, tires, and rim tapes that work together to seal up,
sometimes without any sealant.

Or, you can DIY it like a lot of people.  You need to seal the inside of
the rims completely, but many tapes can do this.  Some folks use a split
innertube (often of a smaller size) as the rim seal, but I've had success
with 8 mil poly tape -- it's lighter and stays where it's put.  The
"tubeless" valve stems with removable core are available separately.

1) Tape the rim -- ensure you cover all spoke holes and the tiny vent holes
(if your rims are welded).  Drill and seal a hole for the valve stem.
2) Mount tire and tube, inflate to high pressure to seat the tape and tire
beads.
3) Carefully pull only one bead of the tire off, remove tube, insert valve
stem (without core), put bead back inside rim.
4) Place tire horizontally on a bucket -- *loose bead down*.  Inflate with
compressor to seat the loose bead.  Loose bead down lets gravity help the
bead on to the seat, stem with core removed means you can use any air tip
for this step (presta compressor tips are rare).
5) Remove valve core, add 2-4 oz of sealant, replace core.
6) Inflate to regular pressure.  The sealant will ooze and seal up any
punctures, and probably ooze around the rim bead (a wet rag is handy).  The
sealant may even ooze through the sidewalls, especially of "supple" tires.

I've never set up non-fat tires this way, and I imagine step 3 would be
tricky with the much tighter beads of many "normal" sized bike tires.

Pros of tubeless tires:
+ Mostly puncture proof
+ Lighter
+ Less rolling resistance
+ No pinch flats, so can run lower pressures

Cons
- Setup is messy, time consuming, and requires a compressor

I believe your LBS is correct that the compressor is required, but
incorrect in the second claim about the tires popping off the bead if not
ridden regularly. -- The sealant will hold the tire on the bead while the
bike is stationary, even if completely flat.  Of course, the tire will pop
off the bead if you try to ride it that way, but you're not a fool.
My tubeless fat tires have lost no pressure in between rides.  But I don't
know how well tubeless tires hold air at higher pressures (mine are at
10-11 psi max).

I'm very happy with mine, but I think fat bikes are a niche that gains the
most from tubeless.  I may try my Grand Bois Lierres tubeless eventually,
because they need help with puncture protection.

Tim Gavin
Cedar Rapids, IA

What all is involved with initial setup on tubeless?  Is there a Riv-ish
> guide to doing so?
>
> My LBS told me that I needed to have an air compressor to make the tires
> seat, but I have a hard time imagining that to be true.  They also said
> that if you don't ride them regularly, it's better to use tubes because the
> tire will come off the bead, which relates to needing (again) to have an
> air compressor to seat.
>
> I can't imagine random guys running tubeless all have air compressors in
> their respective garages.  Or do they?
> On Feb 8, 2015 8:56 PM, "Noah Deuce" <iprufr...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Two points:
>> 1. Definitely use Orange Seal. I've had much better results for initial
>> setup with it than Stans; also, doesn't create boogers in your tires after
>> time (unlike Stans).
>>
>> 2. HED Belgium C2+ is another wide, rim braking rim that works well. More
>> expensive than the Pacentis, but I've had great results with, both tubed
>> and tubeless.
>>
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