I find that a towel about 2 feet square is very helpful for pulling the
speed wheel.  I stage the plug near the wheel and then place the towel over
top with the edges all tucked into the sump.  I work on the cabin side or
"top" of the towel, the wheel and plug being underneath.  I grab the wheel
in one hand (with the towel) and grab the plug in the other hand (with the
towel).  The draping edges of the towel stay in the bilge sump area and as
I withdraw the wheel the towel catches the geyser keeping the water in the
bilge.  The plug is in my other hand ready to be inserted.

Sometimes letting some water accumulate in the sump helps to reduce the
geyser effect as well.  I keep a medium bristle tooth brush in the sump to
scrub the wheel.  The extra water is nice for rinsing.  The wet towel is
rung out there in the sump and then used to clean up any drips or spills.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Thu, Oct 11, 2018, 10:59 AM Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product
> I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed
> that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA
> sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's
> not a wiring issue (95% certain)...
> That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside
> of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water
> around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt.
> The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach
> the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out
> completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely
> risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...
>
> WISH ME LUCK!
>
> Dan
>
> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> What Ed says.
>>
>> I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go
>> sailing.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Dan
>>
>> You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the
>> boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting
>> the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a
>> person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument.
>>
>> Ed Levert
>> C&C 34 Briar Patch
>> New Orleans
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks guys.
>>> Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and
>>> there's no current lol.
>>> I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it
>>> to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach
>>> under to spin the wheel manually...
>>>
>>> Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so
>>> I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for
>>> "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the
>>> padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at
>>> all? not even a "0.0.0"?
>>>
>>> Dan
>>>
>>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint.  I did not
>>>> discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water.
>>>>
>>>> *From:* Edward Levert via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM
>>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>>> *Cc:* Edward Levert <weeselev...@gmail.com>
>>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
>>>>
>>>> Dan
>>>>
>>>> The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar
>>>> transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the
>>>> paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My
>>>> guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal
>>>> the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve
>>>> your problem.
>>>>
>>>> Ed Levert
>>>> C&C 34 Briar Patch
>>>> New Orleans
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm
>>>>> trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the
>>>>> issue is with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you
>>>>> know where I'm going wrong?
>>>>>
>>>>> ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart
>>>>> sensor" one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly.
>>>>>
>>>>> With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B&G nav
>>>>> computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no 
>>>>> temperature
>>>>> data)
>>>>>
>>>>> I've got:
>>>>> GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly)
>>>>> Black, and Shield to Ground IN
>>>>> Red to Speed Voltage IN
>>>>> Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN
>>>>> Brown to nothing
>>>>>
>>>>> With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no
>>>>> Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be
>>>>> turning to get speed sentences?
>>>>>
>>>>> Dan
>>>>> Breakaweigh
>>>>> C&C44
>>>>> Halifax, NS
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>
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