Do you mean this site:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/maststep/maststep.htm
I did essentially the same thing on my C&C 30 a few years ago. The
plywood had rotted out and my mast was sinking into
the bilge. I got some 3/4 inch fiberglass panels from a guy who parts
for aircraft. I cut out and laminated the the panels togehter
to make them 1.5 inches thick. Put them in, dropped the big wooden
block on top and then the mast shoe...all good now.
On 20/05/2015 5:20 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List wrote:
I recall reading somewhere .... who knows where ... that C&C changed
at some point from plywood to fiberglass for the mast step stringers
(or perhaps it was just encapsulating them entirely in glass. Can
anyone confirm that and if so when it occurred?
On the 30’s we looked at (when we ultimately got the 27) you could
reach into the bilge and under the arch of the stringer ... so even
without pulling the mast, probing with an awl would give you a good
idea how bad things are.
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII
*From:* Gary Nylander via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Sent:* Wednesday, May 20, 2015 12:58 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Cc:* Gary Nylander <mailto:gnylan...@atlanticbb.net>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1
Nate, your 30 is the same year as mine, so I would surmise they are
built the same. Mine is #593.
There are three crosswise stringers under the oak plate. The aluminum
box is attached to the oak by long screws and the oak plate is
attached with six long screws. The oak comes off easily.
Depending on how dry your bilge has been kept, the stringers may or
may not be weakened. If so, the fixes have ranged from removal and
replacement to just strengthening. I went the strengthening route and
framed each stringer with a bit of foam board and drilled a bunch of
holes in each and filled with G-Flex up to the level of the oak. No
movement in about five years.
The problem is that the factory didn't encapsulate the stringers
(which are made up of two pieces of 3/4" plywood each) on the bottom,
and when the bilge is wet, they soak up moisture and get waterlogged.
There's glass just on the sides.
Some fixers have just put a large horizontal tube for drainage and
another for access to the forward keel bolt and then filled the whole
cavity with some sort of filler (microballoons, etc.). You could just
fill the lowest part so that your bilge pump keeps things dry, but to
get all the water out, the pump has to be in the lowest part of the
sump - under the mast. Inaccessible.
Another bypass fix would be to put in a bilge drain. My boat had that,
and foolishly I filled up that area. I should have replaced it with
one which is flush to the outside, then for half of the year, the
bilge is totally dry.
I don't have pictures, but when you take the screws out of the oak, it
will be pretty obvious what is there.
Good luck, email if you have questions, I have been down the road twice.
Gary Nylander
Maryland
gnylan...@atlanticbb.net <mailto:gnylan...@atlanticbb.net>
--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
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