Thanks! Exactly what I need. This is an amazing list and great group.

Nate
"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1
#602

On Fri, May 22, 2015 at 9:57 AM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I used over sized lag screws to bold them down to stringers. I like your
> taped aluminum angle bar better though...
>
> Cheers,
> Aaron R.
> Admiral Maggie,
> 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
> Annapolis, MD
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Date: Fri, 22 May 2015 07:35:27 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: m...@tkg.ca
>
>
> That looks pretty much the same as I found on Windburn.
> I used 2" white oak for two of the girders ( stringers ? ) and
> 1.5" for the center girder. The challenge was cutting the oak
> to match the curve of the bilge, which was different on the
> two sides. Further, the sides did not run parallel bow to stern.
> I did smooth the worst of the bumps down with a grinder
> and applied a coating of resin to re-seal everything.
>
> I see from your picture #9 it was the same for  Admiral Maggie.
>
> The area just in front on the foremost keel bolt appeared to be
> the lowest point in the bilge. A bit of resin was poured in their
> to level it, and a remote pickup installed for a Whale Gulper 320.
>
> Getting the height right was also a process. I assumed the original
> supports had settled a bit and there is not much square in the boat
> to compare to. The top surface of the aluminum casting the mast
> sits on is not the same thickness front to back, and the bottom
> of the mast is not square. No idea if all of that was by design.
>
> I also installed two 4" x 1/4" thick aluminum angle pieces, bolted
> horizontally through the front and rear girders. They were drilled
> and tapped to hold the machine screws coming down from the
> mast step. Was your block screwed down directly into the girders?
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
>
>
>
> Date: Thu, 21 May 2015 17:10:27 -0400
> From: Aaron Rouhi <admiralmag...@outlook.com>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1
> Message-ID: <bay179-w44f5e244aa918e2f4a0063a2...@phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
> Hey Nate,Here are some pictures from when I replaced my mast step few
> years back. The stringers were so rotted that I was able to remove them
> pretty much by hand! It was not pretty...
> I replaced them with 5 new stringers made out of 8/4" mahogany.  Make sure
> you mark up the height of your oak block so you can match it. This is also
> a good time to installed a bilge pump pickup hose in front of the mast
> (lowest part of the bilge). Doing that will keep your bilge dry...
> Pictures are here:
> http://imgur.com/a/SOWx6
>
> Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD
>
> Date: Wed, 20 May 2015 11:12:16 -0500
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: nateflesn...@gmail.com
>
> I'll soon have the mast out of my 1980 30-1 (for relocating her by truck)
> and want toforestall future mast step issues by redoing/strengtheningit
> now. The mast was last out 8 years ago. I've never pulled the oak mast step
> base plate, so don't know what to anticipate underneath. Advice welcome,
> pictures very welcome.
> I'm imagining figuring out the necessary drainage and keel bolt access,
> then using epoxy-saturated oak board or McMaster Carr fiberglass sheets to
> built a new support step, and maybe filling in what I hear is a large empty
> area with micro-balloon slurry?
> She's  an all-freshwater boat which sits in a cradle 7 months a year,
> which may be why its lasted this long with no signs of trouble yet.
> Nate Flesness"Sarah Jean"1980 30-1
> Siskiwit Bay MarinaLake Superior
>
>
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