I used oak last time and didn't seal the ends as well as I thought I had.
Water intrusion was noticeable. What also happened was that the oak started
bending until finally it was too low for the rig to tighten well.I replaced
with a mexican hardwood, very oily, that they use for fenceposts that last over
a hundred years. I believe it was called pay-la (phonetic spelling). It's
like ironwood in that it's more dense than water; it sinks. A real pain to cut
and shape. Broke a band saw tire and went through many sabre saw blades.While
at it, I fitted a third support for the mast step out of some extra. That
should prevent any future bending in the middle.RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL
From: Nate Flesness via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Nate Flesness <nateflesn...@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2015 11:12 AM
Subject: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1
I'll soon have the mast out of my 1980 30-1 (for relocating her by truck) and
want toforestall future mast step issues by redoing/strengtheningit now. The
mast was last out 8 years ago. I've never pulled the oak mast step base plate,
so don't know what to anticipate underneath. Advice welcome, pictures very
welcome.
I'm imagining figuring out the necessary drainage and keel bolt access, then
using epoxy-saturated oak board or McMaster Carr fiberglass sheets to built a
new support step, and maybe filling in what I hear is a large empty area with
micro-balloon slurry?
She's an all-freshwater boat which sits in a cradle 7 months a year, which may
be why its lasted this long with no signs of trouble yet.
Nate Flesness"Sarah Jean"1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay MarinaLake Superior
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