Oh, no. Are the nomenclature police offended? Stringer vs floor? Didn't we have a lengthy thread on these terms a couple of years ago? I recall reading it in the salon....uh main cabin....uh....saloon.
Dennis C. On Tue, Jun 2, 2015 at 5:16 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > There appears to be three or more bundles of fibers (glass?) which > follow the contour of the hull from side to side - each one of the cross > members rests on one of these bundles and the keel bolts (as I remember) go > through the bundles as well. I'll check as soon as it quits raining. > > Gary > Wet Maryland > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Ronald B. Frerker <rbfrer...@yahoo.com> > *Sent:* Tuesday, June 02, 2015 3:29 PM > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1 > > Interesting that C&C put a third cross member in. My boat is a 1973, > #166, and it only has the two. > When I repaired the step last year, I put a third member in between the > other two. > Also, my two original, and the third I put in, all rest on the curved > shoulder of the bilge. They don't appear to be structural other than > dedicated to hold up the mast. > Trying to conform to the curve of the bilge, it was not regular, was the > toughest part. > Ron > Wild Cheri > STL > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Gary Nylander via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Gary Nylander <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net> > *Sent:* Wednesday, May 20, 2015 2:58 PM > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1 > > Nate, your 30 is the same year as mine, so I would surmise they are > built the same. Mine is #593. > > There are three crosswise stringers under the oak plate. The aluminum box > is attached to the oak by long screws and the oak plate is attached with > six long screws. The oak comes off easily. > > Depending on how dry your bilge has been kept, the stringers may or may > not be weakened. If so, the fixes have ranged from removal and replacement > to just strengthening. I went the strengthening route and framed each > stringer with a bit of foam board and drilled a bunch of holes in each and > filled with G-Flex up to the level of the oak. No movement in about five > years. > > The problem is that the factory didn't encapsulate the stringers (which > are made up of two pieces of 3/4" plywood each) on the bottom, and when the > bilge is wet, they soak up moisture and get waterlogged. There's glass just > on the sides. > > Some fixers have just put a large horizontal tube for drainage and another > for access to the forward keel bolt and then filled the whole cavity with > some sort of filler (microballoons, etc.). You could just fill the lowest > part so that your bilge pump keeps things dry, but to get all the water > out, the pump has to be in the lowest part of the sump - under the mast. > Inaccessible. > > Another bypass fix would be to put in a bilge drain. My boat had that, and > foolishly I filled up that area. I should have replaced it with one which > is flush to the outside, then for half of the year, the bilge is totally > dry. > > I don't have pictures, but when you take the screws out of the oak, it > will be pretty obvious what is there. > > Good luck, email if you have questions, I have been down the road twice. > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
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