There appears to be three or more bundles of fibers (glass?) which follow the contour of the hull from side to side - each one of the cross members rests on one of these bundles and the keel bolts (as I remember) go through the bundles as well. I'll check as soon as it quits raining.
Gary Wet Maryland ----- Original Message ----- From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Ronald B. Frerker Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2015 3:29 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1 Interesting that C&C put a third cross member in. My boat is a 1973, #166, and it only has the two. When I repaired the step last year, I put a third member in between the other two. Also, my two original, and the third I put in, all rest on the curved shoulder of the bilge. They don't appear to be structural other than dedicated to hold up the mast. Trying to conform to the curve of the bilge, it was not regular, was the toughest part. Ron Wild Cheri STL ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Gary Nylander <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net> Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2015 2:58 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1 Nate, your 30 is the same year as mine, so I would surmise they are built the same. Mine is #593. There are three crosswise stringers under the oak plate. The aluminum box is attached to the oak by long screws and the oak plate is attached with six long screws. The oak comes off easily. Depending on how dry your bilge has been kept, the stringers may or may not be weakened. If so, the fixes have ranged from removal and replacement to just strengthening. I went the strengthening route and framed each stringer with a bit of foam board and drilled a bunch of holes in each and filled with G-Flex up to the level of the oak. No movement in about five years. The problem is that the factory didn't encapsulate the stringers (which are made up of two pieces of 3/4" plywood each) on the bottom, and when the bilge is wet, they soak up moisture and get waterlogged. There's glass just on the sides. Some fixers have just put a large horizontal tube for drainage and another for access to the forward keel bolt and then filled the whole cavity with some sort of filler (microballoons, etc.). You could just fill the lowest part so that your bilge pump keeps things dry, but to get all the water out, the pump has to be in the lowest part of the sump - under the mast. Inaccessible. Another bypass fix would be to put in a bilge drain. My boat had that, and foolishly I filled up that area. I should have replaced it with one which is flush to the outside, then for half of the year, the bilge is totally dry. I don't have pictures, but when you take the screws out of the oak, it will be pretty obvious what is there. Good luck, email if you have questions, I have been down the road twice. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
