I used over sized lag screws to bold them down to stringers. I like your taped aluminum angle bar better though...
Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD Date: Fri, 22 May 2015 07:35:27 -0400 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: m...@tkg.ca That looks pretty much the same as I found on Windburn. I used 2" white oak for two of the girders ( stringers ? ) and 1.5" for the center girder. The challenge was cutting the oak to match the curve of the bilge, which was different on the two sides. Further, the sides did not run parallel bow to stern. I did smooth the worst of the bumps down with a grinder and applied a coating of resin to re-seal everything. I see from your picture #9 it was the same for Admiral Maggie. The area just in front on the foremost keel bolt appeared to be the lowest point in the bilge. A bit of resin was poured in their to level it, and a remote pickup installed for a Whale Gulper 320. Getting the height right was also a process. I assumed the original supports had settled a bit and there is not much square in the boat to compare to. The top surface of the aluminum casting the mast sits on is not the same thickness front to back, and the bottom of the mast is not square. No idea if all of that was by design. I also installed two 4" x 1/4" thick aluminum angle pieces, bolted horizontally through the front and rear girders. They were drilled and tapped to hold the machine screws coming down from the mast step. Was your block screwed down directly into the girders? Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 Date: Thu, 21 May 2015 17:10:27 -0400 From: Aaron Rouhi <admiralmag...@outlook.com> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1 Message-ID: <bay179-w44f5e244aa918e2f4a0063a2...@phx.gbl> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hey Nate,Here are some pictures from when I replaced my mast step few years back. The stringers were so rotted that I was able to remove them pretty much by hand! It was not pretty... I replaced them with 5 new stringers made out of 8/4" mahogany. Make sure you mark up the height of your oak block so you can match it. This is also a good time to installed a bilge pump pickup hose in front of the mast (lowest part of the bilge). Doing that will keep your bilge dry... Pictures are here: http://imgur.com/a/SOWx6 Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD Date: Wed, 20 May 2015 11:12:16 -0500 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: nateflesn...@gmail.com I'll soon have the mast out of my 1980 30-1 (for relocating her by truck) and want toforestall future mast step issues by redoing/strengtheningit now. The mast was last out 8 years ago. I've never pulled the oak mast step base plate, so don't know what to anticipate underneath. Advice welcome, pictures very welcome. I'm imagining figuring out the necessary drainage and keel bolt access, then using epoxy-saturated oak board or McMaster Carr fiberglass sheets to built a new support step, and maybe filling in what I hear is a large empty area with micro-balloon slurry? She's an all-freshwater boat which sits in a cradle 7 months a year, which may be why its lasted this long with no signs of trouble yet. Nate Flesness"Sarah Jean"1980 30-1 Siskiwit Bay MarinaLake Superior _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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