This type of crimper is available all over amazon.  I've been satisfied
with mine.  They're not perfect (so make sure you give the lug a good pull)
but they sure beat the cheap single plate style.

Titan 11477 Ratcheting Wire Terminal Crimper
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069TRKJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ynPlvb0CN2Y01

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 15, 2015 12:21 PM, "Lee via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Peter,I would like to purchase  a set of c/t crimping pliers but I live in
> the US and I do not see any mention of shipping on their  C/T s web site.
> Any idea's oot
> there?
> Thanks Lee      C+C 35-3 C/B LI NY
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter Fell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Wed, Apr 15, 2015 9:36 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS
>
>    By the way, if any Canucks out there are looking for an inexpensive
> pair of ratcheting crimpers for 10-22 AWG insulated wire terminals,
> Canadian Tire has them on sale this week for $10.50! Even the non-sale
> price of $29.99 is good, compared to, for example, the Ancor version at $80
> - $100.
>
>
> http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/20-10-ratcheting-crimper-0207568p.html#.VS5mNU10zIU
>
>  I have to say I haven't tried these, but they look almost identical to
> the $30 no-name set I picked up from Princess Auto about 3 years ago ...
> which has worked flawlessly.  Much, much better tool than those cheap flat
> steel crimper-strippers you typically see that are almost impossible to get
> a good crimp without ripping the insulation on the terminals.
>
>  Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C&C 27 MkIII
>
>  *From:* Graham Collins via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>  *Sent:* Monday, April 13, 2015 5:29 PM
>  *To:* Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>  *Subject:* Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS
>
>  It is missing the vial of weasel sweat.  Otherwise good.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
>  On 2015-04-13 9:23 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:
>
>  Here's my wiring diagram.
> https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2Smb9smQbAY/VSxdVWZC-yI/AAAAAAAADBU/Yre8JWIYfI0/w639-h822-no/circuit_diagram.jpg
>
>
>  Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>  On 13 April 2015 at 10:29, Knowles Rich via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  Just catching up on the various threads. My experience suggest that the
>> less complexity and fewer components in the electrical system the better,
>> especially in a salt water environment. That also means no unnecessary
>> switches or electrical equipment in the cockpit as they always turn out to
>> be problematic much more often than those out of the weather in the cabin.
>>
>>  "Unnecessary" is a relative word, of course, but none of the activities
>> such as turning on deck lights, compass or nav lights are urgent, and
>> saving a few steps to reach the protected main panel is not worth
>> compromising the reliability of the system. The less sub-panels the better
>> to my mind.
>>
>>  The power to a removable GPS should be switched off at source on the
>> main panel and certainly by the battery switch when the boat is unattended.
>>
>>  Just a few thoughts...
>>
>>   Rich Knowles
>>  Nanaimo, BC
>> INDIGO LF38
>> For sale in Halifax, NS.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  On Apr 9, 2015, at 09:41, Peter Fell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>    And the sub-panel in the cockpit usually are available in 2 types
>> (talking weatherproof here) .... one that has fuses (ATC or AGC types)
>> built-in and the other just has plain switches. With the latter you'd need
>> to mount a below-deck fuse block next to the switch panel to fuse
>> individual circuits. I picked up one of the Blue Seas 6-position combined
>> switch/fuse panels and will feed to it from my main DC panel (switched and
>> fused there) and use the cockpit sub-panel to control nav-lights and feeds
>> to pedestal-mount electronics and auto-pilot and also provide proper sized
>> fusing for each 'device'. So, for example, although my chartplotter is
>> switched right at the unit and so otherwise could just be fed off a fuse
>> block, it is removable (and will be stowed below when not in use) so I want
>> to be able to turn power off completely to it's plug-in connection.
>>
>>  In my planning I'm trying to eliminate as many in-line fuses as possible
>> ... eliminating those that are hidden away or hard to access. For example,
>> I plan to put in AGC-type panel mount 'waterproof' fuse holders in the
>> engine gauge panel for the compass light and the blower - the switches for
>> both of those are in the standard C&C panel.
>>
>>  Peter Fell
>> Sidney, BC
>> Cygnet
>> C&C 27 MkIII
>>
>>
>>
>>  *From:* ed vanderkruk via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>  *Sent:* Thursday, April 09, 2015 8:11 AM
>>  *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Alex Giannelia <a...@airsensing.com>
>>  *Subject:* Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS
>>
>>   Remember  to put a fuse in the line for your sub panel or have an
>> appropriate breaker on your main panel for the sub panel - but maybe you
>> were planning that already.
>>  Ed
>>  On Apr 8, 2015 8:38 PM, "Alex Giannelia via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> So here are my thoughts and I'm not really an electrical guy
>>>
>>> My old panel resides under the traveller track just on top of the
>>> companionway stairs as they all did and has a combined 12VDC panel with 15
>>> switches and fuses and 3 AC switches and one big rotary main 1-2-all-off
>>> switch.
>>>
>>> The old household style         SQUARE D incoming breaker has been
>>> replaced by a Blue Sea dual breaker each 30A one going to the new electric
>>> motor charger and the second one going to the new smart charger for the
>>> house bank. On the starboard side of the companionway, there was a hanging
>>> locker which  may have been converted at the factory or by a PO to hold a
>>> stereo and two VHF radios.  Above that facing the cockpit are 3 almost new
>>> condition WS45 instruments by STANDARD HORIZON.
>>>
>>> The plan is to keep it as simple as possible but to move the panel to
>>> the locker on the starboard side above the nav station and to have a sub
>>> panel (already installed) in the cockpit where the engine instruments were.
>>>
>>> So, for example the exterior, instrument and navigation lights would be
>>> switched from the cockpit as well as one bilge switch.  The engine
>>> installer installed a 6 position BLUE SEA switch bank that I can use for
>>> whatever.
>>>
>>> Everything else, and there is precious little, would be switched from
>>> the cabin panel.
>>>
>>> Then, as I have most areas accessible, I want to run new tinned wire to
>>> the lights, nav lights, pumps etc.
>>>
>>> Get the picture?  So what should I worry about?
>>>
>>> Alex Giannelia
>>> CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
>>> TORONTO, Ontario
>>>
>>> a...@airsensing.com
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
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