By the way, if any Canucks out there are looking for an inexpensive pair of 
ratcheting crimpers for 10-22 AWG insulated wire terminals, Canadian Tire has 
them on sale this week for $10.50! Even the non-sale price of $29.99 is good, 
compared to, for example, the Ancor version at $80 – $100. 

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/20-10-ratcheting-crimper-0207568p.html#.VS5mNU10zIU

I have to say I haven’t tried these, but they look almost identical to the $30 
no-name set I picked up from Princess Auto about 3 years ago ... which has 
worked flawlessly.  Much, much better tool than those cheap flat steel 
crimper-strippers you typically see that are almost impossible to get a good 
crimp without ripping the insulation on the terminals.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

From: Graham Collins via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 5:29 PM
To: Jim Watts ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

It is missing the vial of weasel sweat.  Otherwise good.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11On 2015-04-13 9:23 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:

  Here's my wiring diagram. 
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2Smb9smQbAY/VSxdVWZC-yI/AAAAAAAADBU/Yre8JWIYfI0/w639-h822-no/circuit_diagram.jpg



  Jim Watts
  Paradigm Shift
  C&C 35 Mk III
  Victoria, BC


  On 13 April 2015 at 10:29, Knowles Rich via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

    Just catching up on the various threads. My experience suggest that the 
less complexity and fewer components in the electrical system the better, 
especially in a salt water environment. That also means no unnecessary switches 
or electrical equipment in the cockpit as they always turn out to be 
problematic much more often than those out of the weather in the cabin.  

    “Unnecessary” is a relative word, of course, but none of the activities 
such as turning on deck lights, compass or nav lights are urgent, and saving a 
few steps to reach the protected main panel is not worth compromising the 
reliability of the system. The less sub-panels the better to my mind. 

    The power to a removable GPS should be switched off at source on the main 
panel and certainly by the battery switch when the boat is unattended.

    Just a few thoughts…


    Rich Knowles
    Nanaimo, BC
    INDIGO LF38
    For sale in Halifax, NS.






    On Apr 9, 2015, at 09:41, Peter Fell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

    And the sub-panel in the cockpit usually are available in 2 types (talking 
weatherproof here) .... one that has fuses (ATC or AGC types) built-in and the 
other just has plain switches. With the latter you’d need to mount a below-deck 
fuse block next to the switch panel to fuse individual circuits. I picked up 
one of the Blue Seas 6-position combined switch/fuse panels and will feed to it 
from my main DC panel (switched and fused there) and use the cockpit sub-panel 
to control nav-lights and feeds to pedestal-mount electronics and auto-pilot 
and also provide proper sized fusing for each ‘device’. So, for example, 
although my chartplotter is switched right at the unit and so otherwise could 
just be fed off a fuse block, it is removable (and will be stowed below when 
not in use) so I want to be able to turn power off completely to it’s plug-in 
connection.

    In my planning I’m trying to eliminate as many in-line fuses as possible 
... eliminating those that are hidden away or hard to access. For example, I 
plan to put in AGC-type panel mount ‘waterproof’ fuse holders in the engine 
gauge panel for the compass light and the blower – the switches for both of 
those are in the standard C&C panel.

    Peter Fell
    Sidney, BC
    Cygnet
    C&C 27 MkIII



    From: ed vanderkruk via CnC-List 
    Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2015 8:11 AM
    To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Alex Giannelia 
    Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

    Remember  to put a fuse in the line for your sub panel or have an 
appropriate breaker on your main panel for the sub panel - but maybe you were 
planning that already. 
    Ed
    On Apr 8, 2015 8:38 PM, "Alex Giannelia via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

      So here are my thoughts and I'm not really an electrical guy

      My old panel resides under the traveller track just on top of the 
companionway stairs as they all did and has a combined 12VDC panel with 15 
switches and fuses and 3 AC switches and one big rotary main 1-2-all-off switch.

      The old household style         SQUARE D incoming breaker has been 
replaced by a Blue Sea dual breaker each 30A one going to the new electric 
motor charger and the second one going to the new smart charger for the house 
bank. On the starboard side of the companionway, there was a hanging locker 
which  may have been converted at the factory or by a PO to hold a stereo and 
two VHF radios.  Above that facing the cockpit are 3 almost new condition WS45 
instruments by STANDARD HORIZON.

      The plan is to keep it as simple as possible but to move the panel to the 
locker on the starboard side above the nav station and to have a sub panel 
(already installed) in the cockpit where the engine instruments were.

      So, for example the exterior, instrument and navigation lights would be 
switched from the cockpit as well as one bilge switch.  The engine installer 
installed a 6 position BLUE SEA switch bank that I can use for whatever.

      Everything else, and there is precious little, would be switched from the 
cabin panel.

      Then, as I have most areas accessible, I want to run new tinned wire to 
the lights, nav lights, pumps etc.

      Get the picture?  So what should I worry about?

      Alex Giannelia
      CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
      TORONTO, Ontario

      a...@airsensing.com


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