Peter,I would like to purchase  a set of c/t crimping pliers but I live in the 
US and I do not see any mention of shipping on their  C/T s web site. Any 
idea's oot there?                                                               
                 Thanks Lee      C+C 35-3 C/B LI NY
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Fell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Wed, Apr 15, 2015 9:36 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS


  
   
    
By the way, if any Canucks out there are looking for an inexpensive pair of 
ratcheting crimpers for 10-22 AWG insulated wire terminals, Canadian Tire has 
them on sale this week for $10.50! Even the non-sale price of $29.99 is good, 
compared to, for example, the Ancor version at $80 – $100.    
    
    
    
    
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/20-10-ratcheting-crimper-0207568p.html#.VS5mNU10zIU
   
    
    
    
I have to say I haven’t tried these, but they look almost identical to the $30 
no-name set I picked up from Princess Auto about 3 years ago ... which has 
worked flawlessly.  Much, much better tool than those cheap flat steel 
crimper-strippers you typically see that are almost impossible to get a good 
crimp without ripping the insulation on the terminals.   
    
    
    
Peter Fell    
Sidney, BC    
Cygnet    
C&C 27 MkIII   
         
      
      
      
       
       From:        Graham Collins via CnC-List       
       
       Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 5:29 PM      
       
       To:        Jim Watts ;        cnc-list@cnc-list.com       
       
       Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS      
     
    
     
     
       It is missing the vial of weasel sweat.  Otherwise good.    
    
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
     
On 2015-04-13 9:23 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:     
    
     
      
Here's my wiring diagram.       
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2Smb9smQbAY/VSxdVWZC-yI/AAAAAAAADBU/Yre8JWIYfI0/w639-h822-no/circuit_diagram.jpg
      
      
     
      
       
       
       
        
Jim Watts        
Paradigm Shift        
C&C 35 Mk III        
Victoria, BC        
       
      
       
       
       
On 13 April 2015 at 10:29, Knowles Rich via CnC-List        
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:       
        
         
Just catching up on the various threads. My experience suggest that the less 
complexity and fewer components in the electrical system the better, especially 
in a salt water environment. That also means no unnecessary switches or 
electrical equipment in the cockpit as they always turn out to be problematic 
much more often than those out of the weather in the cabin.           
          
          
“Unnecessary” is a relative word, of course, but none of the activities such as 
turning on deck lights, compass or nav lights are urgent, and saving a few 
steps to reach the protected main panel is not worth compromising the 
reliability of the system. The less sub-panels the better to my mind.          
          
          
          
The power to a removable GPS should be switched off at source on the main panel 
and certainly by the battery switch when the boat is unattended.         
          
          
          
Just a few thoughts…          
           
           
           
            
             
Rich Knowles            
             
Nanaimo, BC             
INDIGO LF38             
For sale in Halifax, NS.             
             
             
             
             
            
           
            
             
              
              
              
               
On Apr 9, 2015, at 09:41, Peter Fell via CnC-List <               
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:              
               
               
               
                
                 
                  
                   
And the sub-panel in the cockpit usually are available in 2 types (talking 
weatherproof here) .... one that has fuses (ATC or AGC types) built-in and the 
other just has plain switches. With the latter you’d need to mount a below-deck 
fuse block next to the switch panel to fuse individual circuits. I picked up 
one of the Blue Seas 6-position combined switch/fuse panels and will feed to it 
from my main DC panel (switched and fused there) and use the cockpit sub-panel 
to control nav-lights and feeds to pedestal-mount electronics and auto-pilot 
and also provide proper sized fusing for each ‘device’. So, for example, 
although my chartplotter is switched right at the unit and so otherwise could 
just be fed off a fuse block, it is removable (and will be stowed below when 
not in use) so I want to be able to turn power off completely to it’s plug-in 
connection.                  
                   
                   
                   
In my planning I’m trying to eliminate as many in-line fuses as possible ... 
eliminating those that are hidden away or hard to access. For example, I plan 
to put in AGC-type panel mount ‘waterproof’ fuse holders in the engine gauge 
panel for the compass light and the blower – the switches for both of those are 
in the standard C&C panel.                  
                   
                   
                   
Peter Fell                   
Sidney, BC                   
Cygnet                   
C&C 27 MkIII                  
                   
                   
                   
                   
                                       
                     
                     
                     
                      
                      From:                       ed vanderkruk via CnC-List    
                  
                      
                      Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2015 8:11 AM                    
 
                      
                      To:                       cnc-list@cnc-list.com ;         
              Alex Giannelia                      
                      
                      Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS                     
                    
                   
                    
                    
                                                         
Remember  to put a fuse in the line for your sub panel or have an appropriate 
breaker on your main panel for the sub panel - but maybe you were planning that 
already.                    
                    
Ed                   
                    
On Apr 8, 2015 8:38 PM, "Alex Giannelia via CnC-List" <                    
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:                    
                     
So here are my thoughts and I'm not really an electrical guy                    
 
                     
My old panel resides under the traveller track just on top of the companionway 
stairs as they all did and has a combined 12VDC panel with 15 switches and 
fuses and 3 AC switches and one big rotary main 1-2-all-off switch.             
        
                     
The old household style         SQUARE D incoming breaker has been replaced by 
a Blue Sea dual breaker each 30A one going to the new electric motor charger 
and the second one going to the new smart charger for the house bank. On the 
starboard side of the companionway, there was a hanging locker which  may have 
been converted at the factory or by a PO to hold a stereo and two VHF radios.  
Above that facing the cockpit are 3 almost new condition WS45 instruments by 
STANDARD HORIZON.                     
                     
The plan is to keep it as simple as possible but to move the panel to the 
locker on the starboard side above the nav station and to have a sub panel 
(already installed) in the cockpit where the engine instruments were.           
          
                     
So, for example the exterior, instrument and navigation lights would be 
switched from the cockpit as well as one bilge switch.  The engine installer 
installed a 6 position BLUE SEA switch bank that I can use for whatever.        
             
                     
Everything else, and there is precious little, would be switched from the cabin 
panel.                     
                     
Then, as I have most areas accessible, I want to run new tinned wire to the 
lights, nav lights, pumps etc.                     
                     
Get the picture?  So what should I worry about?                     
                     
Alex Giannelia                     
CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed                     
TORONTO, Ontario                     
                     
                     a...@airsensing.com                     
                     
                     
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