Just catching up on the various threads. My experience suggest that the less complexity and fewer components in the electrical system the better, especially in a salt water environment. That also means no unnecessary switches or electrical equipment in the cockpit as they always turn out to be problematic much more often than those out of the weather in the cabin.
“Unnecessary” is a relative word, of course, but none of the activities such as turning on deck lights, compass or nav lights are urgent, and saving a few steps to reach the protected main panel is not worth compromising the reliability of the system. The less sub-panels the better to my mind. The power to a removable GPS should be switched off at source on the main panel and certainly by the battery switch when the boat is unattended. Just a few thoughts… Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC INDIGO LF38 For sale in Halifax, NS. On Apr 9, 2015, at 09:41, Peter Fell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: And the sub-panel in the cockpit usually are available in 2 types (talking weatherproof here) .... one that has fuses (ATC or AGC types) built-in and the other just has plain switches. With the latter you’d need to mount a below-deck fuse block next to the switch panel to fuse individual circuits. I picked up one of the Blue Seas 6-position combined switch/fuse panels and will feed to it from my main DC panel (switched and fused there) and use the cockpit sub-panel to control nav-lights and feeds to pedestal-mount electronics and auto-pilot and also provide proper sized fusing for each ‘device’. So, for example, although my chartplotter is switched right at the unit and so otherwise could just be fed off a fuse block, it is removable (and will be stowed below when not in use) so I want to be able to turn power off completely to it’s plug-in connection. In my planning I’m trying to eliminate as many in-line fuses as possible ... eliminating those that are hidden away or hard to access. For example, I plan to put in AGC-type panel mount ‘waterproof’ fuse holders in the engine gauge panel for the compass light and the blower – the switches for both of those are in the standard C&C panel. Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet C&C 27 MkIII From: ed vanderkruk via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2015 8:11 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> ; Alex Giannelia <mailto:a...@airsensing.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS Remember to put a fuse in the line for your sub panel or have an appropriate breaker on your main panel for the sub panel - but maybe you were planning that already. Ed On Apr 8, 2015 8:38 PM, "Alex Giannelia via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: > So here are my thoughts and I'm not really an electrical guy > > My old panel resides under the traveller track just on top of the > companionway stairs as they all did and has a combined 12VDC panel with 15 > switches and fuses and 3 AC switches and one big rotary main 1-2-all-off > switch. > > The old household style SQUARE D incoming breaker has been replaced > by a Blue Sea dual breaker each 30A one going to the new electric motor > charger and the second one going to the new smart charger for the house bank. > On the starboard side of the companionway, there was a hanging locker which > may have been converted at the factory or by a PO to hold a stereo and two > VHF radios. Above that facing the cockpit are 3 almost new condition WS45 > instruments by STANDARD HORIZON. > > The plan is to keep it as simple as possible but to move the panel to the > locker on the starboard side above the nav station and to have a sub panel > (already installed) in the cockpit where the engine instruments were. > > So, for example the exterior, instrument and navigation lights would be > switched from the cockpit as well as one bilge switch. The engine installer > installed a 6 position BLUE SEA switch bank that I can use for whatever. > > Everything else, and there is precious little, would be switched from the > cabin panel. > > Then, as I have most areas accessible, I want to run new tinned wire to the > lights, nav lights, pumps etc. > > Get the picture? So what should I worry about? > > Alex Giannelia > CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed > TORONTO, Ontario > > a...@airsensing.com <mailto:a...@airsensing.com> > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > <http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com> > _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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