In salt water it can stress crack fairly easily and then you will have salt
water spewing out all over your engine and engine space.at least that is
what happened on my 27.stainless is well worth the extra cost but it too
will eventually fail, nothing lasts forever and for whoever got 18 years out
of black pipe I say that was good luck and maybe fresh water

 

  _____  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander
Sent: March 1, 2014 1:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Exhaust Riser Replacement

 

Hey folks, black pipe works quite well.....

 

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 

From: dwight <mailto:dwight...@gmail.com>  

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2014 4:48 AM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Exhaust Riser Replacement

 

Bob

 

I could not find out what if any surface pre treatment is required on the
metal parts before you apply this paint, only the cure process.  I wonder
where it is used on re-entry vehicles having worked for years studying fire
barrier coating materials like intumescent paints; usually an "R" factor is
involved too.  What did you do to the metal before applying it?

 

What is the cost of that paint?  Did you check on the cost of stainless
steel pipe and elbows?  I don't remember exactly but the cost of the
required 3, 4 and 5 inch sections of treaded ss pipe and elbows was not that
high when I did a replacement 10-12 years ago, I think like about $100 for
all the pieces needed to go from the manifold back, the heat blanket I used
was free to me, and I expect with this paint that you will still need to
wrap the system

 


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From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bobmor99
.
Sent: March 1, 2014 12:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Exhaust Riser Replacement

 

An update to my continued contrarian way...

 

I've painted the galvanized pieces (3 coats, inside and out) with some space
age, high-temperature paint. It's used on re-entry vehicles.  :-)

 

http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/flameproof/

 

There's a curing process involved; 

30 minutes @ 250F, 

30 minute cool off, 

30 minutes @ 450F, 

30 minute cool off, 

and finally, 

30 minutes @ 600F. 

 

I've completed the first two heats. My oven only goes to 550F. (Kinda like
my amp only goes to 11/2, not 12/2.) Tomorrow morning I'll turn on the
broiler, move the oven rack to the top and bake everything again for 30
minutes. I don't want to blow up my kitchen at night. The first two bakes
stunk it up.  

 

So yes, my cheapitude has lead to new experiences.

 

I've researched the galvanized/zinc flu warning and concluded that A4
exhaust temperatures are below what's needed to create zinc oxide fumes.
(That's a welding/cutting thing.) Besides, in this case the zinc will be
sealed by coats of high-temp paint.

 

So, I'm going forward with my cheapo exhaust riser replacement and will
report back at 5 year intervals. 

 

Bob M

Ox 33-1

Jax, FL

 

 

 


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