In salt water it can stress crack fairly easily and then you will have salt water spewing out all over your engine and engine space.at least that is what happened on my 27.stainless is well worth the extra cost but it too will eventually fail, nothing lasts forever and for whoever got 18 years out of black pipe I say that was good luck and maybe fresh water
_____ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Nylander Sent: March 1, 2014 1:26 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Exhaust Riser Replacement Hey folks, black pipe works quite well..... Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: dwight <mailto:dwight...@gmail.com> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2014 4:48 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Exhaust Riser Replacement Bob I could not find out what if any surface pre treatment is required on the metal parts before you apply this paint, only the cure process. I wonder where it is used on re-entry vehicles having worked for years studying fire barrier coating materials like intumescent paints; usually an "R" factor is involved too. What did you do to the metal before applying it? What is the cost of that paint? Did you check on the cost of stainless steel pipe and elbows? I don't remember exactly but the cost of the required 3, 4 and 5 inch sections of treaded ss pipe and elbows was not that high when I did a replacement 10-12 years ago, I think like about $100 for all the pieces needed to go from the manifold back, the heat blanket I used was free to me, and I expect with this paint that you will still need to wrap the system _____ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bobmor99 . Sent: March 1, 2014 12:47 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Exhaust Riser Replacement An update to my continued contrarian way... I've painted the galvanized pieces (3 coats, inside and out) with some space age, high-temperature paint. It's used on re-entry vehicles. :-) http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/flameproof/ There's a curing process involved; 30 minutes @ 250F, 30 minute cool off, 30 minutes @ 450F, 30 minute cool off, and finally, 30 minutes @ 600F. I've completed the first two heats. My oven only goes to 550F. (Kinda like my amp only goes to 11/2, not 12/2.) Tomorrow morning I'll turn on the broiler, move the oven rack to the top and bake everything again for 30 minutes. I don't want to blow up my kitchen at night. The first two bakes stunk it up. So yes, my cheapitude has lead to new experiences. I've researched the galvanized/zinc flu warning and concluded that A4 exhaust temperatures are below what's needed to create zinc oxide fumes. (That's a welding/cutting thing.) Besides, in this case the zinc will be sealed by coats of high-temp paint. So, I'm going forward with my cheapo exhaust riser replacement and will report back at 5 year intervals. Bob M Ox 33-1 Jax, FL _____ _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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