At my Home Depot the black iron is next to the galvanizes pipe and is about the same price.
I can tell you galvanized pipe DOES stink up the boat with an A4. Been There Done That. I also would not want to be eating any food from the oven you used for your paint curing experiment! I am not even sure what the paint is going to do. The pipe gets wrapped in header-wrap on the outside and should not corrode from outside-in unless you have some kind of water leak spraying it. I can’t imagine the paint will stay in place on the inside. Could be wrong about that. Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2014 9:24 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Exhaust Riser Replacement I really do appreciate the sense of adventure and discovery in trying out new things for the boat. But sometimes the tried and true alternatives are still a good choice. A few years ago, a buddy and I helped an old guy at my club recondition and sell a Pearson 30 he was getting too old to sail by himself. Among other projects, we rebuilt the carb on the A4, installed a transistor ignition in place of the points, and rebuilt the exhaust system. The black iron pipe that was OEM on the A4 had lasted about 30 years, about 12 in salt water in LIS and 18 here in the brackish water in the Carolinas. Black iron was a little harder to find than galvanized pipe, but worth the investment in a couple of phone calls and turned out to be about the same cost. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2014 8:22 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Exhaust Riser Replacement Bob, Hope your life insurance is paid up. That stink can't be good for you to breathe. Never knew anyone to paint the inside of a pipe. Isn't there an A4 website that discussed this issue? I like Dwight's idea to use stainless steel. McMaster-Carr has fittings of every type in 304 or 316. Below is a pipe threaded one end, assuming you will attach an exhaust hose. size SS 304 price SS 316 price 2 1/2" 9157K69 <http://www.mcmaster.com/#9157K69> $8.25 9110T48 <http://www.mcmaster.com/#9110T48> $11.18 Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Atlantic City, NJ _____ From: "bobmor99 ." <bobmo...@gmail.com <mailto:bobmo...@gmail.com> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Friday, February 28, 2014 11:47:20 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Exhaust Riser Replacement An update to my continued contrarian way... I've painted the galvanized pieces (3 coats, inside and out) with some space age, high-temperature paint. It's used on re-entry vehicles. :-) http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/flameproof/ There's a curing process involved; 30 minutes @ 250F, 30 minute cool off, 30 minutes @ 450F, 30 minute cool off, and finally, 30 minutes @ 600F. I've completed the first two heats. My oven only goes to 550F. (Kinda like my amp only goes to 11/2, not 12/2.) Tomorrow morning I'll turn on the broiler, move the oven rack to the top and bake everything again for 30 minutes. I don't want to blow up my kitchen at night. The first two bakes stunk it up. So yes, my cheapitude has lead to new experiences. I've researched the galvanized/zinc flu warning and concluded that A4 exhaust temperatures are below what's needed to create zinc oxide fumes. (That's a welding/cutting thing.) Besides, in this case the zinc will be sealed by coats of high-temp paint. So, I'm going forward with my cheapo exhaust riser replacement and will report back at 5 year intervals. Bob M Ox 33-1 Jax, FL _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
_______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
