Hey folks, black pipe works quite well.....

Gary
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: dwight 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2014 4:48 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Exhaust Riser Replacement


  Bob

   

  I could not find out what if any surface pre treatment is required on the 
metal parts before you apply this paint, only the cure process.  I wonder where 
it is used on re-entry vehicles having worked for years studying fire barrier 
coating materials like intumescent paints; usually an "R" factor is involved 
too.  What did you do to the metal before applying it?

   

  What is the cost of that paint?  Did you check on the cost of stainless steel 
pipe and elbows?  I don't remember exactly but the cost of the required 3, 4 
and 5 inch sections of treaded ss pipe and elbows was not that high when I did 
a replacement 10-12 years ago, I think like about $100 for all the pieces 
needed to go from the manifold back, the heat blanket I used was free to me, 
and I expect with this paint that you will still need to wrap the system

   


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  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bobmor99 .
  Sent: March 1, 2014 12:47 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Exhaust Riser Replacement

   

  An update to my continued contrarian way...

   

  I've painted the galvanized pieces (3 coats, inside and out) with some space 
age, high-temperature paint. It's used on re-entry vehicles.  :-)

   

  http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/flameproof/

   

  There's a curing process involved; 

  30 minutes @ 250F, 

  30 minute cool off, 

  30 minutes @ 450F, 

  30 minute cool off, 

  and finally, 

  30 minutes @ 600F. 

   

  I've completed the first two heats. My oven only goes to 550F. (Kinda like my 
amp only goes to 11/2, not 12/2.) Tomorrow morning I'll turn on the broiler, 
move the oven rack to the top and bake everything again for 30 minutes. I don't 
want to blow up my kitchen at night. The first two bakes stunk it up.  

   

  So yes, my cheapitude has lead to new experiences.

   

  I've researched the galvanized/zinc flu warning and concluded that A4 exhaust 
temperatures are below what's needed to create zinc oxide fumes. (That's a 
welding/cutting thing.) Besides, in this case the zinc will be sealed by coats 
of high-temp paint.

   

  So, I'm going forward with my cheapo exhaust riser replacement and will 
report back at 5 year intervals. 

   

  Bob M

  Ox 33-1

  Jax, FL

   

   

   



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