gt; many systems there is still the potential for a lot of heat.
>
> With the 2011 code just around the corner and no dc arc fault protection on
> the horizon, it looks like our industry is again going to have a code
> requirement that no one can fulfill.
>
> Kent Osterberg
gt; Ray,
> A 2% wire loss is the generally accepted metric for battery based systems
> with relatively low PV voltage input (<150Voc). It's just plain bad design to
> accept more than a 1% VD on higher voltage systems. PVs ain't THAT cheap.
> Best, Bob-O
>
> On Ap
n you apply 240.10 to add a supplementary protection
> over-current device to insure that power is interrupted in the event it goes
> outside the range you expect.
> --
> Julie Haugh
> Senior Design Engineer
> greenHouse Computers, LLC // jfh at greenhousepc.com // greenHous
method of
> incentivizing by the installed watt, than not installing PV at all. That
> said, we DO have control over wire sizing. IMO, throwing away watts forever
> just to cheapen it up a very little bit upfront is poor economy and as the
> price of gird supplied power incre
er wire sizing. IMO, throwing away
>> watts forever just to cheapen it up a very little bit upfront is poor
>> economy and as the price of gird supplied power increases over the years,
>> the waste and lost revenue is even more acerbated.
>> Best, Bob-O
>>
>>
Over the same amount of time a similar investment in PV would save even more
money.
R. Walters
r...@solarray.com
Solar Engineer
On Apr 8, 2010, at 4:28 PM, Bob-O Schultze wrote:
> Guys,
> Is it just me being dense or are none of you folks advocating for higher VD
> looking at the savings ov
Also consider that most people are figuring volt drop at a wire temperature of
167 deg F (75C). That's really hot, and most of the time the wire will be much
cooler, and therefore the volt drop will be less.
(use the fine print note #2, NEC table 8 to adjust down for cooler temperature)
William's
t electrical design
> practice! When we are talking about Mega-watt commercial installations, It
> would be pretty silly to have a system shut down (ie lost production = lost
> investment money) because of saving some money on wire.
>
> Bill Hoffer PE
> Sunergy Engineering Services
r wire loss?
>
> Todd
>
>
>
> On Friday, April 9, 2010 10:46am, "R Ray Walters" said:
>
> All our economic analysis is based on a 20 to 25 year life.
> Safety first, but then good design is to spend the customer's money where it
> does the most good.
We've had the same experience with DC CFLs, about 50% return rate. They just
can't handle voltages below 12 v, so we quit carrying them.
After years of working on DC wiring, just go to AC. You could wire all the
lights on one circuit in 12 AWG. (instead of running 10 AWG or bigger, and then
tryi
Marco;
Check out Citel, they make a line of DIN rail mountable units for DC voltages
up to 1000v. Prices are in the $100 to $200 range.
One at the combiner box, and one at the inverter, with ground rods at each
location should give reasonable coverage.
I like Polyphasor's stuff too, but it is p
I just recently bought a clamp on ground impedance tester. I found one system
that was less than an ohm, worst one was almost 800 ohms. Only a few were
below 25 ohms.
You're absolutely right: good lightning protection starts with a good ground.
The impedance tester takes the guess work out of j
I bought the Amprobe DGC-1000A. I paid around $1000, but I see they've gone up
a bit already. I can't necessarily recommend (or berate) the web biz I bought
it from, so I'm not going to give them a plug.
I'd just google: the make & model #.
The Amprobe is very easy to use, but the 2 down sides ar
A couple of nice things about working on carports:
1) often the ceiling is exposed, making anchoring and finding rafters easy
2) If you did have a leak, its not quite as catastrophic.
Just because you get the wind loading and anchors right for the array, doesn't
mean the carport roof will still b
r 18, 2010, at 12:04 PM, Darryl Thayer wrote:
> Hi
> It can be used off grid, but you have to have two ground sources, so drive
> two ground rods and measure the resistance you will get the sum of the two
> resistsnces.
>
> --- On Sun, 4/18/10, R Ray Walters wrote:
>
>
Hi Drake;
I have kids, and I agree with you; an exposed ground rod would be a nasty thing
to land on.
I always had a fear of falling on one with my knee (ugh!), however, I have had
inspectors require 4" of ground rod above grade.
(most installs in New Mexico I see keep the connection above grad
s.com
> "Proven Energy Solutions"
>
> From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
> [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of R Ray Walters
> Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 9:59 AM
> To: RE-wrenches
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] clamp on ground i
Once you sign up, they start charging you, even for bogus leads. You never get
your money back, just credit (if you're lucky) to get more bogus leads.
Also, they waste a lot of your time with different sales reps calling you, but
never talking to each other, their internal communication is zilch.
of the
danger is also very important.
The only deviation I might make from OSHA, is sometimes we use lighter weight
rock climbing harnesses. Our reasoning is that the heavier gear is more likely
to get in your way, thus causing a trip hazard.
I'm a big fan of the new sliding rope grabs. TH
At this point, there are much better products for splicing than split bolts.
The insulated splice blocks don't need tape, and are easy to check later too.
I just don't see a reason to use uninsulated splices anymore. All your time
spent wrapping (and unwrapping) will more than pay the difference
I think to make any energy production warranty fair, it would have to include
an on-site monitoring package that tracked cell temp, insolation, and grid
conditions. Then the installed system would be off the hook if the grid was out
of spec, insolation levels were low, cell temp too high, etc. T
Jeff;
Is this a belated April Fool's Joke?
Or just an April Fool?
That module shouldn't be used for anything over the voltage it was designed and
intended for: 12 Volts!
And it shouldn't be used on anything but a non-NEC automotive application. In
this case, I'd consider tattling to the inspect
HI Allan
I would strongly encourage separate MPPT controllers for the different module
types. Even if you get an acceptable voltage match under some conditions, it
will never be optimal for all conditions.
I'd even consider using the venerable C40 with the old modules, as they have
less to gain
he FM60. Wired in two strings of 6,
> allowed me to drop the wire size considerably!
>
> Todd
>
> On Thursday, April 29, 2010 1:44pm, "R Ray Walters" said:
>
> HI Allan
>
> I would strongly encourage separate MPPT controllers for the different module
>
I haven't seen a problem with concrete, but wood definitely rots out when
exposed to acid, including pressure treated.
(Saw a system with Battery shelving made from wood where the top shelf
collapsed from acid rot..)
Acid also eats foam board, unsticks silicon seal, and gets under and dissolv
HUP batteries in several years so my info may be out
> of date but the steel case on the older HUP batteries had drain holes on the
> bottom.
>
> Kent Osterberg
> Blue Mountain Solar, Inc.
>
>
>
> R Ray Walters wrote:
>>
>> I haven't seen a problem
Funny, I was just considering this to create an AC battery charger that could
be used for different battery voltages.
I have a couple of small electric vehicles that have 12, 24, 36, or 48 v packs
depending on fast I want to let the kids go.
I only need about 3 amps output (150 watt max)
Any oth
On the venting vs insulating issue, I too have wondered about that.
If insulation is needed, we insulate around the battery bottom and sides very
tightly, but leave the top exposed. Venting is only for the top of the battery,
the sides do not need to be vented.
Gases are coming from the caps, and
HI Bob;
I've done a bunch of that rewire stuff. Reusing the modules? I would, if they
were on a decent mount.
Since a) they're not on a good mount, and
b) none of those are top shelf panels,
I'd probably trade them in or have the customer resell them. Many folks just
starting out could use th
All of my "this ought to work?" experiments in module mixing and matching did
work, but always under performed.
If the customer wanted to play around with them, put them on a decent rack,
and hide the mess from view, it will still provide some usable amps.
I wouldn't even waste an MPPT controlle
I still think the venerable Solar Pathfinder coupled with their Pathfinder
Assistant software is just as good or better, for much less money.
I did some very detailed shading analysis with the Pathfinder (as you may
recall)
You do have to provide your own digital camera though.
R. Walters
r...@s
Its all too bad, because for an oil company, BP was at least trying to do some
solar. (but their panels sucked)
All the other oil companies bailed on solar years ago (Shell, Arco), or never
even bothered in the first place. (Exxon)
Unfortunately, unless you magically don't use any petroleum produ
Is this in a high corrosive area near the ocean? Even so, I've seen bare copper
do just fine. i think the focus should be on the connectors to the modules and
structure. I've seen the lay in lugs deteriorate rapidly, while the copper just
develops a green patina. Consider using the WEEB groundin
It all depends on how its done. If each electrode is attached to the next
electrode by the #2 and Cadweld directly, and also connected through the
required EGC, then there is a loop. Once you have the loop, the low resistance
#2 cable only increases its ability to generate current from an electr
I like the SW4024, but I never liked the SW5548. It actually had less surge
capability than its little brother.
Either way, I would never recommend the Trace SW series for grid tie. They are
very inefficient in that mode.
(As for the noise, I seem to recall an issue with old SWs where the windin
'Neutral Conductor' is defined in article 100 as being "intended to carry
current under normal conditions" so that's basically NEC defined as current
carrying. You are already allowed to undersize the neutral conductor in a 3
phase system, so I think that's all the allowance you're going to get.
My understanding was that the din mountable QOU breakers were rated to 125 vDC,
and are internally the same as the QO. The difference was the connectors, and
the mounting method.
I've used the QOUs reliably at 120 v nom on an EV, (but don't try this at home,
kids)
We still use the QOs sometimes
I've also seen failures/ nuisance tripping due to loose connections at the
breaker. The heat then wreaks havoc on the breaker internals.
R. Walters
r...@solarray.com
Solar Engineer
On May 17, 2010, at 8:23 AM, jay peltz wrote:
> HI Drake
>
> I don't know if this could apply to your situatio
I only use this signage, when its true.
Gridtie inverters interrupt output in milliseconds, so I don't use it on AC.
My understanding is that it does apply to array disconnects, as the inverter
capacitors could still have a charge, that would render the "live on both
sides" idea true on DC.
I al
Interesting, because we quit working with all three Manufacturers mentioned for
the following reasons:
Kyocera had that 1999 bad batch that is still giving them a bad name in the
back woods here. So glad I never sold those.
BP bought Solarex, and starting making crappy polycrystalline stuff, (and
mittently.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Bill Loesch
> Solar 1 - Saint Louis Solar
> I would hope that other _distributors_ like AEE and manufacturers, like
> Evergreen, continue to pass on their leads as long as the established
> distribution channels remain in place.
>
&g
PVC doesn't look as professional, especially when it starts browning in the sun
after a few years.
We still use it a lot though, as its durable, nonconductive, and easy to use.
5 things we do to make PVC better:
No long exposed runs (to avoid expansion problems)
Use Sch 80 coming out of the ground
I think you're going to have trouble with the array direct to the relay coil. a
12 v relay may burn long term, as suspected, but the 24 v relay probably won't
close reliably at the lower voltage.
R. Walters
r...@solarray.com
Solar Engineer
On May 20, 2010, at 3:37 PM, Mick Abraham wrote:
>
I agree with your I-V curve interpretation Bill, I had never considered the
counteracting influences on voltage of reduced irradiance and reduced temp.
Very interesting. Also funny how most manufacturers quit publishing IV
curves
One way to check it Peter, is to turn each subarray on separa
We've had no problems with Outback inverters and AFCI breakers, other than the
inverter can't actually generate the 70 amps necessary to make an AFCI trip.
(an inspector's AFCI tester didn't trip when expected) I think there should be
an exception to the AFCI requirement, when the power supply m
Mick,
To calculate the lifetime amp-hrs, as you wanted, you first have to have the
Cycle Life vs. DOD (depth of discharge) info for your battery, then multiply
the cycles at your proposed DOD, by the amp hrs rating of the battery by the
DOD% (cycle # x battery AMpHr x DOD%)
One thing I can t
I've run a 3 Hp pump on a pair of Outback inverters, but it's not a done deal.
As the pumps age, they start getting stickier (read more start up current
needed to get them going) and wells often have silt which builds up in the pipe
and pump, adding to the start up surge.
I recently had a system
We've done a few set ups with storage cisterns too. While it definitely takes
the load off the inverters, it has some downsides:
1) if the genie goes down, you are out of water, which is worse than being out
of electricity.
2) Even the best cisterns filled from a clean water source, get nasty aft
Windy was our best resource for DC air pumping. I recall brush wear, and other
high voltage arcing problems.
I remember using an AC air pump (simple magnetic coil) with a rectifier, also.
Never heard from those customers again,
so 'No news= Good News"?
R. Walters
r...@solarray.com
Solar Engin
Float valves too have been problematic. Seals wear and leak after several
years, and just a couple of months ago, we had the brass shaft that connects
the float to the valve break off. In this case the tank had an over flow that
went into the septic. So nothing was damaged by the over filling, b
Jeff's idea is good, but I think the only potential violation of the listing of
the service panel, would be if you drilled and tapped into the buss bar.
Tapping the cable w/ a listed connector shouldn't cause any trouble to the
service panel. (230.33 specifically allows the service cable splice
I agree Peter, the seals are not exposed like a normal flashing, so that will
help. But the Oateys will still see some reflected UV radiation. I've seen
other parts "protected by the array", totally deteriorate in 5 years (UV
resistant tie wraps anyone?). In Hawaii, roofing supply houses only se
IF those L 16s are much over 5 years old, they could be gone. L16s (of any
brand) have less cycle life than a golf cart battery, just check the charts.
They also don't fair very well long term in float charge.
You can probably EQ them back to life as already mentioned, but then after 6
months to
t Manager
> Advanced Alternative Energy Solutions, LLC
> PO Box 657
> Petaluma, CA 94953
> Cell: 707-321-2937
> Office: 707-789-9537
> Fax: 707-769-9037
>
>
> From: R Ray Walters
> To: RE-wrenches
> Sent: Tue, June 29, 2010 8:59:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [RE-wren
See below:
R. Walters
r...@solarray.com
Solar Engineer
On Jul 1, 2010, at 7:09 AM, Jeff Clearwater wrote:
> Dear Colleagues,
>
> Well this one's for me! Nice to do solar for oneself after installing for
> others my whole life!
>
> I'm putting together an small RV system in my Sprinter Van th
http://www.bb-battery.com/
they should sell direct. I'd look at the MPL-90 battery, its a sealed deep
cycle battery 12 v 90 aH. Make sure and ask for the flag terminal, the post
terminals are too small for 2/0 cable.
We've used them on grid tie w/ battery backup, and off grid stuff that neede
Kent;
Your table shows just what I found as well: too large a battery bank actually
isn't as cost effective.
Also, based on the Trojan chart, you can see that a regular L16 isn't even as
good as golf cart battery, but that the 2 v version doubles the cycle life.
(which makes sense, cycle life i
I use actual operating current, without multipliers. I also use actual
temperatures, not the worst case temperatures that many use.
I created a spread sheet that uses the NEC adjustments for wire temperature,
(see NEC chapter 9, table 8, FPN 2)
It makes quite a difference!
Volt drop and the accom
;
> From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
> [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of R Ray Walters
> Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 3:45 PM
> To: RE-wrenches
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] calculating DC voltage drop
>
> I use actual operating
It would depend on which side of the OCD the 380 amp rated cable was on. IF the
400 A OCD is integral to the panel, then it doesn't matter what the cable size
is on the other side of the OCD, it's protected by the OCD, and the current
can't exceed that. If the OCD is remote and the subpanel does
> Building 9, Floor 2
> Lawrence, MA 01843
> Phone: 978-683-9700 ext. 167
> Fax: 978-683-9702
> m...@solren.com
> www.solren.com
>
> From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
> [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of R Ray Walters
> Sent:
I try to keep it in copper for DC, as I had always heard of trouble with
Aluminum on DC. (True or Old Wrenches Tale?)
We definitely go to Al on long AC runs, as its whats available, and the cost
difference becomes remarkable.
I've seen small cuts in Al, later corrode completely through the conduc
Midnite has a new one:
http://www.midnitesolar.com/productPhoto.php?product_ID=207&productCatName=Busbars&productCat_ID=17
Here's a new one I just found with Del City also:
http://www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=80510DL&search=buss+bar
or http://www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=80006DL&sear
The only advantages of 24 v are that you can create smaller KWH battery banks,
and that Bergey's XL.1 was only available in 24 v.
Anytime the design allows, I jump to 48 v.
R. Walters
r...@solarray.com
Solar Engineer
On Jan 17, 2012, at 11:11 AM, Nathan Jones wrote:
>
>
> Mark,
> It would
sitiveenergysolar.com
> NABCEP Certified Photovoltaic Installer
> NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
> New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
> Positive Energy, Inc.
> 3201 Calle Marie
> Santa Fe, New Mexico 87507
> 505 424-1112
> www.positiveenergysolar.com
>
>
&g
http://www.goalzero.com/ has a nice battery/ power pack that has 12 v PV in,
12v and USB power out. I've been shopping for a solar charger to keep my
"smart" phone going.
R. Walters
r...@solarray.com
Solar Engineer
On Feb 22, 2012, at 2:23 PM, Steve McCarney wrote:
> Hi Jim
>
> Phocos ha
Another method I've used in the past, is to set a 20 ft pole right next to the
house in concrete, then attach it to the house or rafter tails with unistrut
and clamp. I'll usually use a 4 ft piece to spread the load out over at least
three structural members. Then the pole extends 4 to 6 ft abo
nce would cover it?
Ray Walters
On Apr 21, 2012, at 12:12 PM, Dan Fink wrote:
> Esteemed Wrenches;
>
> One of our clients, 79 years old, has an off-grid cabin at 8200 ft altitude
> that he built and has been using on weekends since 1982. Due to a heart
> condition, his doctor
It is a Colorado company, but they are importing them from China. I've met the
owner.
My understanding is the plates do not deteriorate, but the electrolyte needs to
be replaced every 5 - 10 years, so technically you would never need another
set, just KOH.
Ray Walters
On May 5, 2012,
#x27;ve found, their customer
service is truly lacking. It's why I tried to move to support other companies,
like Midnite Solar when possible.
Nobody (including me) is perfect, but how they handle problems speaks volumes
about their integrity.
Ray Walters
On Jun 20, 2012, at 6:35 PM, Alla
g the venerable L foot has its
place in our industry. I've seen some flashed installations that were code
compliant, but looked horrible, and worse: leaked.
Ray Walters
On Jul 4, 2012, at 9:07 AM, David Brearley wrote:
> Todd,
>
> The issue isn't whether your approach work
I worked on one off grid system like this, it worked, but you have to have a
big battery bank. Also, a really good generator is mandatory.
Ray
On Jul 4, 2012, at 5:59 PM, bob ellison wrote:
> Been there on 2 occasions, the pumps may seem like small loads but there are
> usually many of them th
It definitely can work; the old house I'm in now has a 100 yr old radiator
system (not steam) that has 2-1/2" main lines. No pumps. Every single pipe in
the system has a slight fall all the way to the boiler in the basement.
Ray
On Jul 5, 2012, at 6:14 AM,
wrote:
> Seems I once ran into
4) higher voltages that are no longer 12 v DC compatible.
Ray Walters
NABCEP since 2004
On Jul 6, 2012, at 11:04 AM, Rebekah Hren wrote:
> I'm researching an article on PV system security/theft, and I thought it
> would be interesting to ask the wrenches list what y'all have be
hs. I have a couple of
higher end part time systems that the owner can monitor and contact us, if for
instance the power goes out. This keeps it from leading to permanent damage.
Ray Walters
On Jul 14, 2012, at 8:58 AM, Jason Lerner wrote:
> Hello John,
>
> Thank you for your help
t happens"
>
> Have I been lucky not to experience this before? They made it sound like it
> happens fairly often.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jason
> On Jul 14, 2012, at 10:33 AM, R Ray Walters wrote:
>
>> The batteries in your scenario are actually being cycled dai
I don't think any bolts, washers, nuts, screws, lags, all thread, etc are UL
listed either. There aren't UL batteries, so they can't prevent us from
powering off grid homes. Is concrete UL listed, when we do a ground mount
array or a Uffer ground?
The card being played here is article 110.2
hat's worth a look, and their battery
meter is also good for the 12 V crowd.
Ray Walters
On Aug 9, 2012, at 4:57 PM, Jesse Dahl wrote:
> Thats what I was looking at. Cost wise, if you were to get crazy with
> panelboards and stuff the price just skyrockets.
>
> Thanks eh
ly systems. Most of
my DC only systems ended up adding at least a cheap inverter later, might as
well do it right the first time.
Ray Walters
On Aug 10, 2012, at 8:35 AM, Dan Fink wrote:
> On the cheap side, Square D QO. They are indeed rated to 48VDC, which means
> you can use them w
a look at Midnite's Mini DC panel wired to Magnum's smallest inverter.
You'd be surprised how cheap you can do a code compliant inverter based system,
and how much money you can waste trying to do a code compliant DC only system.
Ray Walters
NABCEP certified since 2004
On Aug 10,
screw something up, they're not exactly going to
vaporize the planet.
They're much more likely to die in a car accident driving to your shop to get
another fuse..
Ray Walters
On Aug 10, 2012, at 6:37 PM, Jesse Dahl wrote:
> The "code compliance" part has been my worry
gt;> compliant, and it's going to be inverter based.
>> Take a look at Midnite's Mini DC panel wired to Magnum's smallest inverter.
>> You'd be surprised how cheap you can do a code compliant inverter based
>> system, and how much money you can waste trying to do
ition. 600 VDC rated
fuse holders for instance will completely arc across the open contacts at 900
vdc.
This is one area where you don't have much safety factor, IMHO.
Ray Walters
On Aug 25, 2012, at 9:17 PM, Jesse Dahl wrote:
> I've been using similar "solar" disconn
about 95 deg F.
Any help on both the high insolation reading or Photowatt troubles would be
great.
Thanks in Advance,
Ray Walters
___
List sponsored by Home Power magazine
List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
Options & setti
x27;s probably the best commercially available module in the world,
definitely the most efficient. Last I checked it qualified as American made,
though some of it is made in indonesia I believe.
Ray Walters
On Aug 31, 2012, at 1:36 PM, Bill Hoffer wrote:
> Ryan
>
> I do not think that
At least the imbalance would only be one cell, not a whole string of cells.
Ray
On Oct 8, 2012, at 2:20 PM, William Miller wrote:
> There may be another benefit: While there are really three strings in each
> case, the connections are factory and maybe not prone to imbalance. This is
> the an
vious case, because no
one will be there for several months at a time.
I'd put a nice set of HUPs in to get the same or more amp hours. Efficiency
will be much better, and they'll have a battery that will last 20 years.
Ray Walters
On Oct 11, 2012, at 1:45 PM, Mark Dickson wrote:
> S
Not to sound like a commercial, but I've had good results with "Tub
O'Towels" heavy duty wipes. Its got a lemon base that seems easy on
most surfaces, but it will take paint off with a few seconds of elbow
grease. Hoe Depot has them sometimes, or Northern Tool carries them
too. You'll use
Default efficiency on the TriMet was 94%, needs to be quite a bit higher
for Li+. I'd try 98%.
2nd point: Customers have always obsessed about meter readings: they
need to take a chill pill, and accept its not going to be better than
+/- 10% accuracy. Or get a Fortress battery with built in
I agree with James here. I will relate a "funny" story about a neighbor
mounting a large Elk antler rack on his wall with lags. Worked fine,
till one night they heard a big crash, and the antlers had pulled the
wall stud right out of the wall into the living room. The 2x 4 came
right out of t
tance varied.
Ray Walters
On 9/30/2022 6:57 AM, Jay via RE-wrenches wrote:
Hi all and thanks for the input.
I guess he’s just been unlucky with the problems ( firmware upgrade
switching to 50hz) and possibly just some random bad hardware.
In regards to your thoughts of a install issue, he has
I had properly paralleled the batteries.
Has anyone else had a hard time with Fortress support? Does anyone have
a direct contact? Customer is beyond pissed now, after almost 2 weeks
hearing nothing, and having spent tens of thousands.
Thanks;
802-272-0004*
On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at 2:02 PM Ray Walters via RE-wrenches
wrote:
Greetings Fellow Wrenches;
Based on glowing reports from the RE list, I finally used
Fortress for a
battery replacement for a long time customer. Overall, it
seems to
Talk to Thomas Honey. He is the Fortress rep, nice guy, and
knowledgeable wrench. He has stepped in on my issue.
Ray
On 11/16/2022 10:58 PM, Howie Michaelson via RE-wrenches wrote:
Good Evening,
I have a frustrating charging issue involving 2 Fortress eVault Maxs
connected to a Sol-Ark 15
with
built in color touch screen for monitoring, price much better.
Simpliphi = no monitoring at all, have to parallel ridiculous qty of
batteries to do a normal off grid home, but integration guides are the best.
Ray Walters
On 11/17/2022 1:16 PM, r...@solartechvt.com wrote:
We’ve started t
To add to Jeff's suggestion of targeting 95%, many Li+ batteries have a
spike in voltage as they reach 100%. We just don't have to worry
anymore about sulfate damage from under charging.
Ray Walters
Remote Solar
On 11/19/2022 7:14 AM, Jeff Clearwater via RE-wrenches wrote:
Hi
ecially off grid, I see an
amazing bunch of DIY garbage. Find out who did the original wiring.
Probably not a pro.
Ray Walters
Remote Solar
On 12/16/2022 11:35 AM, Kirk Herander via RE-wrenches wrote:
You may have neutral and ground connected at more than 1 location,
meaning at the genset and in
h the Solark's
load controls.
I've considered some DC options, but they don't make much sense, since
the inverter has to be on to charge from PV anyway.
The long term plan is for the client to finish the insulation, and sheet
rock, and add a gas wall heater in there as needed.
ork.
Christopher
On Wed, Feb 8, 2023 at 6:43 PM Jerry Shafer via RE-wrenches
wrote:
Pet heater have worked for me, I air gap a sealed heater box under
the battery, thermostat inside the top of the battery. It's slow
and low power but does the trick
Fun times
O
://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200653609_200653609
Midnite makes small 30A and 60A T switches as well:
https://www.midnitesolar.com/productPhoto.php?product_ID=416&productCat_ID=29&sortOrder=3&act=p
Ray Walters
On 3/2/2023 11:57 AM, Sindelar Solar via RE-wrenches wrote:
Kris, It was SqD Q
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