Nice touch.
FYI, my local Ace Hardware carries knurled head machine screws in SS in several
sizes. Ace is pricey, but convenient.
I might add SS Tee Nuts to the back of the wood where my panel is mounted.
Thanks for the idea.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
--
Used Micron 66 after reading about it on this list. Great paint for salt water.
Fast and stays clean compared to VC-Offshore which requires frequent scrubbing.
I moved my boat to Chesapeake and now have to change. I'll probably go to Extra
and burnish lightly.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
B
I believe I saw them at Ace Hardware in the drawers where they have specialty
fasteners and parts.
Chuck
- Original Message -
From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List"
To: davidakne...@gmail.com
Cc: "Jean-Francois J Rivard" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 10
Headsail Socks:
I own a sock for the headsails. Bought it used for $100 from a local sailmaker.
You can raise it and protect any headsail from UVs. If it's windy, you can wrap
your spin halyards around it loosely to stop the floppy parts from making flag
noises.
The ATN brand sock has a pulls
Hi Joel,
Lumber Yards sell something for exterior trim called "expanded PVC" in sheets,
4' x 8'. A 3/8" sheet costs $75 and is very bendy. A 3/4" sheet is much stiffer
and probably better for your battery shelf. You may be able to buy scraps from
a local lumber yard, or a builder. They also sel
Hi Chris,
Congratulations on the new boat.
I learned a lot from this list and appreciate the many different approaches to
problem solving.
Edson can tell you which cable you need by the model of your boat. I think they
have two lengths.
I don't have a windless. We usually anchor in 12 feet
Curious. Can you cook with diesel and not make everyone sick from the smell? I
remember Kerosene stoves and how they made some people queesey. I think Diesel
would be worse than Kerosene. Plus I think we started the kerosene stove with
alchohol, so we had to carry two fuels.
Chuck
Resolute
1
Hi Edd,
I've been quiet about this because I haven't run wires through my pedestal
guard because the feet on mine are solid underneath. A single bolt attaches
each foot. Edson sells a two bolt foot that is needed to use the guard as a
conduit. Last I checked the feet cost $50 each.
If you go
Hi Gary,
Your solution sounds very professional. Do I understand you correctly?
Your Navpod wires run down inside the SS guard tubing, then exit the guard
underneath the big traiangular plate that captures the pedestal and guard and
supports the compass. Then the wires enter the pedestal and ru
Hi Francois,
How did you make the holes in the pedestal and the SS guard? Did you use a
fitting to make it watertight? Got any pictures?
Chuck
- Original Message -
From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Jean-Francois J Rivard"
Sent: Friday, A
Hi David,
Nice swivel pod.
Just had a thought. You may want to develope a habit of turning the pod so the
screen has to go to port, whenever changing aim from front to back or back to
front. That way, the wires won't get twisted.
Chuck
- Original Message -
From: "David Knecht via C
Bought two valeses, with bold lettering saying, LIFEJACKETS. They are stuffed
with USCG approved lifejackets. One holds 6 jackets. The other holds another 3
jackets. These all have the boat name on them, reflective tape and whistles
attached. The second valese also holds three inflatables, jack
Wow! You've done everything I would have tried but one. Try beer.
Buy a 30 pack of Coors Light and have it iced down, in a cooler, at your boat,
and let it be known to the yard mechanics that that is the reward for getting
your rudder free. I expect at least one mechanic will be over after work
I bought an EV-100 last spring on the internet. I thought I needed to buy
cables. Fred Street offered me competitive prices for cables.
Instead I found suitable mounting places for the components and put it together
from what came in the kit. It worked great.
I had one glitch. Raymarine tech s
I've never gotten a good weight reading for my boat either.
The local lift operators said their scales were either broken or weren't very
accurate.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
- Original Message -
From: "Rick Bushie via CnC-List"
To: cnc-list@cnc-
Joe,
That's a great price on a ladder. The pic shows a clip over the hinge that
would prevent the bottom from swinging past straight, but I can't tell if it
locks. The rungs may be uncomfortable at an angle, but something could be added
to help that. I'm interested too.
Chuck
Resolute
1990
Hi Dennis,
Is there a trick to getting that new line or cable run down the mast without
crossing hayards? I used the bicycle chain method to fish a new genoa halyard
but I later wondered if it was run fair and not tangled around another halyard.
Any tips would be apreciated.
Chuck
Resolute
neighbor help. My rigger buddy and I
are a well oiled team with 100% success. It really does make a difference when
you both know what the drill is.
Dennis C.
On Mon, Apr 25, 2016 at 10:05 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> wrote:
Hi Dennis,
Is there a trick to get
Hi Adam,
I think new valves and new hoses, clamps, etc, are in order. There are a few
choices.
I like Forespar Marelon thruhulls. No metal to corrode.
http://www.pbsboatstore.com/forespar-marelon-flanged-seacocks.htm?feed=Froogle&gclid=CIjrmMmWucwCFdBZhgodnJMGCw
Groco makes several bronze t
Wing keel vs fin.
I think, today's winged keels are the best, most practical, and efficient way
to shorten draft, but sailing performance will be better w a deep, narrow fin.
The wing gets the weight low, and maintains lift and righting moment. When the
boat is heeled, the wings work like an en
Agree,
John Bertrand wrote a book that described the design process of the Australian
winged keel, the controversy around it, and he stated the keel was chosen to
get more sail area within the rule, and the hull was very fast and another keel
might have improved it further. That keel was weird,
the weight low.
Interesting period with some of the most beautiful boats ever designed imho. 87
was great fun to watch.
John
On May 1, 2016, at 12:37 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
wrote:
Agree,
John Bertrand wrote a book that described the design process
Hope you never become alergic to latex.
- Original Message -
From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List"
To: "C&C List"
Cc: "Josh Muckley"
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2016 11:09:33 PM
Subject: Stus-List New mattress!
Hey guys,
Just wanted to share a really good experience with y'all. We
Kimon,
C&C designed a few sailing dinghies, but the Nutshell Dinghy is a non C&C wood
lapstrake 10 ft pram design.
See:
https://www.google.com/search?q=Nutshell+dinghy&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwif44b12PvMAhUDNSYKHYtjCLYQ_AUIBygB&biw=1354&bih=613
C&C designed the Harpoon 4.6, 5.2
Rick,
I've run Cape May to C&D several times and found I could stay in the tide all
the way up. I time it to leave Cape May after low tide, so it is flooding in as
get to the shipping channel. I run just outside it on the Jersey side and hit
the C&D at slack after High tide. I run the C&D as th
Hi all,
I apologize for not stripping my previous response to Rick.
Enjoyed the video of past rendezvous and saw myself at the first one at Mystic
Seaport. I will not be bringing the boat but will try and drive up to share
beers w you guys. Mystic is a favorite place of mine.
Chuck
Resolut
FWIW, I have a MaxProp geared, two blade feathering prop for 10 years now. Had
the Martec eliptic and needed four boat lengths to stop. Now I simply use the
shift method to dock. I found backing in easier if I leave the engine idle and
shift into neutral, and coast to lineup with my slip, then I
I took all the coast guard and power squadron courses and learned all the regs
and rules and horn signals and flag signals and right o way stuff. What I
learned from 35 years of observation is; nobody uses horn signals or flag
signals and lawyers have the right of way, so never invoke right of w
Gary,
FWIW, I keep a smaller danforth anchor in my inflatable air deck dinghy. I cut
that bar mayself across the head of the anchor and added clear reinforced hose
over the bar ends. The hose extends past the ends to prevent the bar from
holing the dinghy. I believe the bar simply helps to orie
Great story. Thanks for sharing. You are a true hero. You saved three lives!!
I keep a Lifesling tied off to a stern cleat. I need to practice with it next
time at the boat.
Thanks,
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
- Original Message -
From: "RANDY via
The sleeping bags are a great idea, but have your people towel off before
getting in and they will warm up much faster.
- Original Message -
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"
To: "CnClist"
Cc: "Dennis C."
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2016 8:10:17 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Friday Night Re
$175 for the inlet and plug kit. I like the product and the theory behind it.
"Never too late to procrastinate"
I installed a nice twistlock inlet 12 years ago into the cockpit wall, and then
found I had to pay extra for shorepower, so it's never had power connected to
it. Two years ago, I ins
Congratulations. I must learn from you how to prep a boat for the race in such
short time.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
- Original Message -
From: "Joel Aronson via CnC-List"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Joel Aronson"
Sent: Thursday, June 16,
Hi Randy,
You sound like you're having a lot of fun racing. You are definitely doing some
things right.
Here's some things I would think about::
I had to look up the Beaufort scale to see you had 11 to 16 knots gusting 17 to
21. You should have been sailing at hullspeed on all points of sail.
reaching, that kind of settled the question :)
(at least for that wind speed).
Cheers,
Randy
From: "Chuck S via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
Cc: "Chuck S" < cscheaf...@comcast.net &
Joe,
I know some people have been making rigid biminis using frp from Home Depot and
Lowes which comes smooth on one side and rippled on the other.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
- Original Message -
From: "Joe via CnC-List Della Barba"
To: "cnc-list
Wow ! What's the weight of all that chain and anchor on the bow? I appreciate
your project and applaud you sharing the details.
At the risk of drawing out the "flamers", I think windlasses are a little
overrated.
Avoid chain and you don't need the windlass. Avoid the windlass and you don't
n
Love this thread.
An old timer once told me , "every boat is someone's dream". This idea is very
nice dream and a noble quest, and though I'd prefer a larger boat for the task,
I'm sure a 1975 C&C 33 could be prepared to make the passage. The deciding
factor is more on the experience, determina
In 2003 I mounted the control head on the cabin bulkhead next to the
companionway. It came with a wired remote that I thought I would locate at the
wheel. Never got that done. The bulkhead location worked well for raising and
lowering sails and for running long legs offshore or up the Delaware.
PHRF ratings are one way to judge potential speed. These came from Long Island
Sound
Redline 41 is rated 120
C&C 40 standard rig and keel rates 99
C&C 37/40 rates 66
Each C&C design improved on speed and interior volume.
The new all carbon Redline 40 rates 18, but not much interior.
My boat is
Hi Charlie,
I'm no expert, but I have replaced my lifelines with dyneema and several other
running rigging things. I made a short strop to raise the mainsheet purchase
up off the traveller car and recently changed the wire in my solid vang to
dyneema. I like dyneema because it's so easy to sp
Before buying a new starter I would try jumping the big terminals on the
starter with a big screw driver and test the starter. If it fails to jump into
action or hesitates, there are rebuild shops around that rebuild starters and
alternators for cars and boats. I had mine rebuilt in 2005 for $75
FWIW, My boat's engine strainer is a glass walled strainer with wingnuts. It is
located high up in the engine compartment and I believe the top is at the
waterline.
> On September 11, 2017 at 1:51 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Patrick,
>
> Yes that's the unit. The bolt
The PO of our boat had the glow plug button separated from the start button
when I got it. The Universal manual for the engine shows them in series,
meaning you'd have to hold both to start the engine so it was Universal's
design, not C&C's.
> On September 12, 2017 at 12:49 AM "Ronald B. Frerk
Fred,
I checked the drawings for the 34 and see the baby stay is far in front of the
keel. I suspect the bolt should be attached to a stringer also.
http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1794
That's how it is on my 34R. On my boat they welded a stainless stud to a
stainless brack
I'll bite since I have owned a 34R now for 15 years with runners and
checkstays. They are a PITA. So is a Baby Stay and that's why you won't find
them on modern designs. Baby Stays went out of vogue in the 80's with most
designers except C&C who kept them longer than anyone else. To be honest, I
Looked at your photo and it looks like the split is fairing material, not the
real keel. I always follow Dennis' advice, BTW. He's tops. I suggest you
sand/grind fairing down to solid stuff and fill with a waterproof material.
Fair and repaint.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Mago
Hey Dave,
Found this list of 37/40 boats. Great resource, but I prefer the smaller
sister, Rob Ball's last and most advanced design; the 34/36 model. He did the
37/40 in '88 and the 51' and 34/36 in '89.
http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/a-list-of-known-c-3740-boat-name.html
FYI, there were
Solar Fans are great. Better than opening ports cause the induce air changes
when there is no wind. I installed four in my 36 footer in 2007.
FYI, I recently replaced batteries in my Nicro solar fans and one actually
became quieter. You can't tell it's running. The other, no work at all. Just
s
I also appreciate the need for good mainsheet systems. I changed the system on
Resolute twice before I settled on the present 5:1/20:1 system. It involved
moving the traveller from behind the pedestal to in front of it. I found the
6:1 purchase was hard to release when loaded up. So I added
sh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 28, 2017, 6:55 PM Chuck S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
>
> > >
> > Hey Dave,
> >
> > Found this
Great method. Great video. Thanks.
> On December 5, 2017 at 10:57 AM Dan via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I've posted a new DIY video of how I used Vapour Barrier to cover the
> boat for winter this year (in the water) - I have a pretty nice green house
> going on right now, should be able to s
I noticed 15 years ago that every sailboat in every boatyard that races has a
folding or feathering prop. Half of the cruisers have em too. I enjoy my two
blade MaxProp. I followed the dealer's advice and set it up myself to his
specs. The second year I made an adjustment to get a higher RP
Hi Edd,
Suggest you take the pump and ram cylinders to a local hydraulics shop that
works on back hoes, loaders and heavy equip. It probably just needs new
O-rings.
I had a leaking seal on the backstay ram and another on the remote pump and the
repair quote from a Navtec dealer for $750 wit
Eric,
Will PHRF allow you two ratings? One with the sprit and one with the pole? I'm
considering adding a sprit and top down furler for single handed races.
> On January 31, 2018 at 10:47 AM Eric Baumes via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> That is in place of a standard spin and pole. If you declar
Francois,
Thanks for a very thorough response. I learn from your observations, always.
We need to get together for a double handed race n the Chesapeake.
Jim,
younger crew are harder and harder to find. My all-time best crew of 2012 went
to college and graduated and one is a sales rep for
My two cents,
I had the Martec Folding Eliptic on our boat from 2002 to 2007. I had a few
close calls when it wouldn't open. These may have been my inexperience with a
large boat. It seemed like I needed to put it in reverse at four boat lengths
from the dock to get it to stop reliably in my sl
Hi Brien,
Have to share this. I don't know what the previous owner used in my 1990 shaft
seal. It does leak slightly when I first launch and when running, but not after
the engine stops. I've owned the boat fifteen years since 2002 and never
tightened the packing. No, I won't take it apart.
I
I think a backing plate is needed.
I would use G-10 or make my own fiberglass backing plate because I have the
material.
Another option if you don't have anything; Azek. Pick a short length of 1 x 4
trim. It's easy to cut, waterproof, no painting or sealing required. It's
white and it's li
I took a tip from a Don Casey book and changed my intake ell to a tee.
That let's me do a few things. I can rig up a hose and run the engine while on
stands and that let's me test run the engine and transmission before the
travellift pickup. I also can winterize easily in or out of the water. I c
Home Depot sells a fiberglass sheet 4' x 8' and you could use that to make the
finished side. It's less than 1/8" thick so you can bend it pretty easy. Comes
in White or Ivory. There are Youtube videos that show some results.
> On March 16, 2018 at 11:47 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> wrote:
Meant to add, the Home Depot sheeting is smooth on one side and pebbled on the
other and you don't have to paint it.
> On March 16, 2018 at 11:47 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I'm going to try to build a hard bimini. The plan is to trace the shape
> of the frame onto pieces
Agree with Dennis. Soft shackles don't release on their own though I've only
used them for the headsails for three continuous years. My genoa sheets are
both red, 3/8" maxibraid, after my last genoa was impaled by the spreader when
a very experienced and knowledgeable person crewing for me faile
Hadn't hauled the last two years so I have a rather long list. It's like a
refit:
Rewire the mast, changed all lights to LED (mast is out)
Replace sheeves and axles
Replace upper section of furler
Removed all halyards and washed, scrubbed and soaked in Downy to soften them.
Replace two halyards,
Looks good so far. Can't wait to see the final
> On April 11, 2018 at 3:53 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I started building the hard bimini with the FRP panels from Home Depot
> after speaking to the guys at Jamestown Distributors.
>
> Day 1
>
> assembled the bits -
Anyone ever take apart a Harken MkIII Furler?
I installed mine by myself ten years ago and now want to replace the damaged
top section while the mast is out. The stay is rod so I'll have to pull all
the sections off from the bottom to get to the top one. I am worried the
parts won't come ap
On my boat the grab rails are matched sets. The outside grab rails have long
(3 or 4 inches long) screws that attach to nuts on the inner grab rails. The
two sandwich the cabin roof in between.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> On April 15, 2018 at 12:56 PM Chris H
I need to paint my deck too and I'm not so crazy about Perfection as it is a
two part paint and the flattening agent is another two part additive making it
a tedious process. You have to mix four chemicals to get one paint to apply.
I've seen decks painted with single part Briteside and it's sin
Hi Dave,
I bought one of those puck light packs 5 or 6 years ago and use them often. I
put them in the pilot berths and inside cubbies and the engine compartment. The
batteries last the season or two if rarely used. I use them as night lights or
stumble lights when we watch TV.
I keep a larger v
Got my replacement LEDs this year from MarineBeam also. Nice build and
packaging.
I'll be trying out their new two wire Tricolor/anchor/strobe this season and a
steaming/decklight combo too.
> On April 25, 2018 at 4:27 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hi Charlie,
>
> I bought
I know of one lightning strike that happened when a boat was on the hard at the
same boatyard. The boat was a Bristol 54 I think, very well built and heavily
bonded and protected for a lightning strike. It had that little lightning
dissapator on the top of the mast. All of his electronics were f
What's the best way to seal leaky chainplates at the deck. The boats built
after 1988 have a welded flange that makes it hard to get caulk inside the
joint without removing the whole assembly.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md__
Love the before photos. Did you take any of the fix?
> On May 5, 2018 at 11:30 AM Randy Stafford via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Same. The deck on my 1972 30 MK I is cored. The offseason before last I
> removed the chainplates, dug out a good half-inch of core around the cutout,
> and refill
I see your boat was built in '93 and probably by then C&C changed methods. Good
to know.
> On May 6, 2018 at 11:48 AM Brian Fry via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I removed my chainplates this winter and was relieved to find no core
> material. All solid.
> Yes the flange prevents making an e
Responding late to the discussion. My mast is out so I am replacing all the
light fixtures and wiring and selected MarineBeam's Anchor
Light/tri-color/Strobe Combo that works with two wires.
https://store.marinebeam.com/smart-led-tri-color-anchor-light-and-strobe-n3-tri-cmb/
I tested the light a
Hey guys,
I am rewiring the mast and lighting and VHF antenna and wonder if I should pull
in a TV antenna cable? Does anyone have one that works well? I get 35
channels with a leaf antenna I lay on the deck, but it sometimes pixelates just
when the comedian says the punchline. Can be frustr
Sailing.com
> ---
> 914.774.9767 | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone X
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
>
> On May 7, 2018, at 7:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrot
me to price one
> for you.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
>
>
>
>
> > > On May 7, 2018, at 7:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-
Anyone know the regs on using Masthead Tri-Color lights. Just want to do
what's right on my boat this summer on Chesapeake Bay. I believe you can use
either but never both deck lights and the masthead tri-color. Also thought I
read that the masthead tri-color was intended for offshore and no
sier to judge distance. Offshore are use the masthead so the
> lights are visible for a greater distance and in the swells
>
> Joel
>
> On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 9:01 AM Chuck S via CnC-List
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
>
> > >
> &g
Me too. I use a spin halyard and haul it higher with a light downhaul I keep
rigged and let it light the coachroof and deck.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> On May 9, 2018 at 10:43 AM "Dennis C. via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
> Just to reinforce the power boaters n
You got me thinking. I prefer the Selden product if you go this route.
Superior engineering.
I like the security of shackles, though I always dread losing one of the pins.
I keep the pins secured with a stout bit of twine. I'd have to tape the snap
shackles to ensure they don't open at
FWIW, My Harken MkIII top swivel can not get clear of the feeder unless I
remove the SS feeder, lower the swivel, and reinstall the feeder to allow me to
feed the luff tape into the groove. No problem at the dock but difficult on a
pitching foredeck.
If the wind picks up so much I need to ch
Nice trick. Thanks.
> On June 2, 2018 at 2:36 PM "Dennis C. via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
> Recently, my furler swivel got inadvertently hoisted to the masthead
> (sans sail). Used a simple technique to retrieve it with having to go aloft.
>
> Fortunately, Touche's spinnaker halyard blo
Wow, they look like amazing buys. Shocking.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> On June 11, 2018 at 5:38 PM "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
>
> https://easternshore.craigslist.org/boa/d/1979-cc-30/6589132460.html
>
> 1979 C&C 30 - $1500 (Cape Charles, VA
The dent seems awfully small to me and sounds cosmetic.
I doubt a dent with a depth of 3mm counts for much. That's about an 1/8". The
mast wall is probably that thick. And the size of 5cm (2") by 3cm (1 3/16")
seems very superficial. Several feet above the gooseneck. If there aren't too
many hal
FWIW, The outhaul on my 1989 34R is 1/8" SS wire about eight feet long, thimble
both ends and in good shape. Inside the boom is a four to one purchase made of
two fiddle blocks for 7/16" StaSet that exits at the gooseneck and comes back
to the clutches and winches. I rarely need the winch to ten
Hi guys,
Two of the eight wooden shims that sit in the aluminum shoe to hold the mast
foot in position, were rotted, so I fabricated new ones. I chose teak because
I had some thick scraps that matched. Now I'm wondering if I should seal them.
I have Cetol, Watco oil, or West system epoxy to
Thoughts on PHRF:
There are a few PHRF rated boats that seem to defy their rating and sail much
faster. My New Jersey fleet had a J28, a cruiser with a rating 171, similar to
a J24, but with longer waterline and bigger sails. Our rating was 99 and we had
better upwind speed, but In many light ai
It's simple for the 1990 or newer models. Just line up the slings with the
ends of the windows. And tie the slings together on one side so they don't
slip.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> On June 26, 2018 at 10:10 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
I had great success in 2007 taking my Navtec ram and remote pump to a local
hydraulic shop that works on heavy equipment rams like dozers and backhoes,
etc. Chesapeake Rigging wanted $800. I could have bought a new system for
another $200.
Instead I took it to a shop and it cost me less than $5
What's the problem. Is it hard to dock?
I went to a lot of trouble to get my anchor out as far as practical so it
wouldn't hit the hull. Heavy duty roller/channel for the anchor, backing plate
underneath and custom shim pieces molded to level the deck camber, five SS
thru-bolts, some are angl
Hi John,
Please send me a picture of your boat in the slip and I might have some ideas
on how to rig springs.
> On June 27, 2018 at 5:13 PM John Conklin via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> simply because of my docking situation i have only 1 half finger pier and
> 3 pilings one side and 4 other wi
Dennis,
Your guy sounds better than the offer I got from Chesapeake Rigging. They
wanted $800 to do the seals and said the cylinder may be worn and may cost even
more money.
You remind me I need to place a sun shield on my ram seal also.
I was thinking of using a hole saw to cut a wafer out of 3
Did this job in 2015. Edson offered only the cast aluminum idler plate. Its better than the OEM, but raises the pedestal somewhat. Expect to make a trim ring from 3/4 stock; starboard or foamboard. I offered my templates to Edson, but they were mute. Another option mentioned by Francois, cont
Glad to see actual draft reported for the 37/40. I believe many builders
misreported draft and displacement to sell boats back in the 70's and 80's.
Long ago, I noticed many differences between spec numbers and actual numbers
for our boats. The 34/36 is spec'd for 4' 10 draft but the actual
Check out Mars Metals. They made the original keels.
https://marskeel.com/production/repair-modifications/draft-reductions/
> On July 13, 2018 at 12:58 PM Languid Refiner via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone, I've purchased the 1988 37R 'Assailant' in Ontario and will
> be using her as
Hi Guys,
I've got a 35 footer and want to add a halyard restrainer to my mast and have a
synthetic halyard that is stripped, and see two choices.
I see a Schaefer SS fairlead and a Harken Sheave. The fairlead is cheaper and
has a smaller profile. The Harken product is bulkier but might
ofile ‘bale’ or mast mounted small block to provide what you
> need.
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> Get the new AOL app:http://mail.mobile.aol.com
>
> On Sunday, July 15, 2018, Chuck S via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
> > >
> > Hi Guys
Hi David,
Sorry about the grounding.
Boats can be fixed. Be thankful you and crew are OK.
I have had many groundings that were no big deal and one horrible grounding
that cost me $16K, so I know your pain very well. I hope your insurance comes
through for you. Keep us posted on developments.
>
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