Hi all,
I hope everybody is enjoying a fantastic sailing season so far. It's been years
since I subbed this list, back then you gave me great advice regarding the
purchase of a completely stripped c&c 27. I ended up not buying the boat,
mostly because I lack both experience and money to complete
Eric,
Thanks for the reply. Coupler is definitely not an easy removal as I am in
the water already...very tight press fit onto shaft and not something I EVER
want to remove again in the space I have in engine compartment. That said, I
can pull the set bolts one at a time and clean them, and
Donald
This happened to me in the Bahamas, fortunately my board was jammed in the up
position. If my board was down I would be concerned it could get damaged. I
believe the cable can be replaced while the boat is in the water. Your biggest
challenge will be getting the cable end made that's
I have a 33-II with a centreboard whose pendant broke a couple of years ago. I
had Rob From South Shore yachts make and install the new one. They had an eye
fitting roll swagged on the lower end, which the fed down and attached with a
pin to the board, then hand swagged 2 fittings to make the e
Hi guys
Before I speak to the yard. About charging me 5 hours to torque my 5 bolts 3
large at 450ft/lbs that I fully exposed i.e. Moved wires removed cabin table
and covers cleared water from bildge
just wondering what the avg time charged or if it takes multiple guys to do
this job
Pete
I would not try to sail with the board hanging down supported only by the pin.
The trunk usually provides resistance to athwart ship forces on the board when
down in its normal position. If the cable is gone, the board hangs too far down
and all the sideways force is concentrated on the pin whic
FYI - old trick to the board up:
Take a line from port to starboard under the boat. Start at the bow and walk
aft, you should be able to get the board back up and then tie the line off.
Joe
Coquina
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charl
Did that include pulling the mast to get at the one under the step?
If not, 5 hours is about 4 hours too long for that job! Just went through
it myself last year. They might want two guys to do it, so I would
compromise with them and say you'll pay for two hours. Otherwise I would be
shouting from
Peter,
I just had my keel bolts torqued by my yard. Haven't got the invoice yet.
Some of them required 600 ft-lbs. For that, it took two guys even with a
torque multiplier. All nuts and washers were removed and bolt threads were
cleaned. Some nuts required heat and impact tool to remove. Old
Thanks for the responses
Mast was in nothing was cleaned or changed from when I could see appears only
nuts were torqued and from invoice only said torqued
And yes out of yard where boat was stored actually talking to my friends up
here in Maine they told me normally boats aren't launched u
well,
I guess if you add in the time the guy took to listen to the request,
then, the time it took to find the guy to do the job and tell him about
it, and then the time it took to go get the tools and go to the boat and
climb on board, take a nap, then tighten the bolts and fill out the time
The first time I needed to tighten my keelbolts, Port Annapolis gave me a big
socket wrench and said have at it - $0.00 ☺ 5 hours seems 4 too high just to
tighten a few bolts!
That said, and having once been in the business, estimating jobs on boats is
incredibly hard to do. Imagine all the time
That is a good-looking boat Sander. Does it have carbon spars? (I can't read
Dutch, but it kind of looks like it in the pictures). Nice that it has tiller
steering and all lines led aft with deck organizers etc. And a dodger. And
spinnaker gear. In the pictures the mainsheet is removed but I can
Fascinating that the 30E from 1980 looks so much like the US 30-2 from the late
‘80’s. Prototype?
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 11:52 AM
To: cnc-list
Cc: RANDY ; sander
Subject: Re: Stus-List New po
Guys,
I’ve put my C&C 34 on the market to sell. We’re looking to move up in size to a
38.
Here’s the listing – with East Coast Yacht Sales in Camden ME. The asking
price is priced to sell, and is reflective of recent transactions for similar
vintage C&C 34s.
http://www.ecys.com/boat/1982/c-c
I torqued the five keel bolts on my 30-1 this spring (four at 350 ft-lbs, one
at 250) by myself. The actual torquing part took about 15 minutes. Of course,
the mast was off the boat, and I'd removed all the old bilge plumbing and
cleaned the bilge. And I had to drive to a local rental place and
Hi Damien. Hope all goes well with your sale. Where should I ship your ladder? John Read Sent from XFINITY Connect Mobile App-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: damian.gre...@yahoo.comSent: 2017-06-12 12:01:21 PM Subject: Stus-List Selling my C&C 34Gu
Hi Randy,
Thanks for the links and info, very helpful! Love the pictures and your
detailed project report. Will certainly keep that on hand.
Not sure if the boat has carbon spars, I will check when we go to visit it. She
sure looks great, that’s what attracted me to the 27 back then too.
An
Mike,
Any help or information would be very much appreciated.Pictures would be
great. Trying to plan out as much as possible.
Thanks,
Donald
donaldsebast...@me.com
> On Jun 12, 2017, at 8:23 AM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Donald
>
> This happened to me in the Bahamas, f
Paul,
Thank you very much for the information.I’ll contact them today.I’m
thinking its just the fitting at the actual keel as I can’t pull the actual
line up so I think the loop is still attach, or the loop is no longer a loop
but the swagging is still attached and not able to pul throu
The Canadian Yachting article on C&C history on the Photo Album site
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/archive/cnchistory/c2c.htm ,
says that the 30E was a “europeanized” version of C&C 29 mk1.
Any issues with the 29 mk1 would probably apply to the 30E as well.
Rick Taillieu
Shearwater Yacht Clu
Well, I don't know the exact measurement of the forward V-berth, but let me put
it this way. I'm about 6'3" tall and I just barely fit in the V-berth. My feet
can touch the forward bulkhead while my head touches the next one aft. And
there's not much room forward for both my feet and my wife's f
Also I forgot to say, the asking price is about $17,700 given the current euro
/ dollar exchange rate. If she passes a professional survey I think that's
reasonably fair given her age and how she's equipped and assuming she looks as
good close up as in the pictures. I paid about $16,000 for Gren
If 30E is where a registration number would be, now,, port and starboard, it
indicates the boat was registered in Ontario originally.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 12, 2017, at 2:00 PM, RANDY via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Well, I don't know the exact measurement of the forwar
Hi Joe,
Yea but, the right thing to do is, when you realize the condition is far
more difficult to address, is call the owner and keep them in the loop.
If the boat is sitting in the yard and accessible, there is no reason
not to go assess the condition. I mean, I'd never have given an
esti
Keep in mind this boat was over 100 feet long and the owner was in a hurry to
be going again ;)
Joe
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 3:29 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Cc: Danny Haughey
Sub
EDIT – Turned out there was a reason his crew made themselves scarce – If they
had checked the batteries to know they were bad, they knew about the leaks!
Hmm- good time to find something else to do……….
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-Lis
Hi Rick,
Thanks, that’s valuable info.
>From what I read, it appears that the 30 E was built in Germany (the article
>speaks of issues due to rising DM).
No idea if that makes a difference in build quality or if that difference is
better or worse. Another reason to have a thorough survey
One alternative to consider is replacing the cable with high-tech line such
as Amsteel Blue. This is an increasingly common strategy for avoiding steel
cables failing without notice.
Amsteel Blue is stronger than the same size steel cable, impervious to salt
water and resistant to abrasion. UV
Jack,
Thanks for the information. I like that as an option.
The complication in all of this is the closest travel lift is a 4-5 day one way
motoring trip up the Ohio to Cincinnati.My closest local option to lift
would require a de-masting with a crane I hire in myself as their lift cannot
Donald:
It seems to me the tough part in any case is how you connect the old cable
to the new.
When you're hauled out, you can tape them together. When you're underwater?
I dunno. A thin messenger line tied to the old cable and the new one? If the
connector is bulky, it may get hung up while
I was think of going from top down with feeding the new line.Seems like the
amstel blue may make that easier. Thoughts on that?
Donald
> On Jun 12, 2017, at 4:37 PM, Jack Brennan via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Donald:
>
> It seems to me the tough part in any case is how you connect t
Remember my issue with the pull knob on a jib track breaking off? See the
knob on the deck in the shadow?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsWm0yY3FCT0x3TjA/view
I had proposed several options. Option 1 worked. I put the slide under
tension with a line to a winch in order to bind the
Wow those pictures are amazing! Thanks for sharing 😊
I am not as tall as you (6’1 or 1.87m) but I doubt that will make the v-berth
more comfy… Will check it out.
When my wife and I go for the visit, we’ll take our own pictures and share some.
Van: RANDY [mailto:randy.staff...@comcast.n
Hi All,
My C&C 34-1 hatch has some leaks. I put some new hatch tape on then had a
kid soak it with a hose while I checked for leaks. It's leaking
between plastic and metal, not where the tape is.
Is it worthwhile to try an fix or is replacing the whole unit a better
option?
Photo of the said h
Its an Atkins & Hoyle hatch. You can have it rebuilt or buy a new rubber
gasket and replace it yourself.
On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 4:57 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> My C&C 34-1 hatch has some leaks. I put some new hatch tape on then had a
> kid soak
FYI, Amsteel (and any other Spectra or Dyneema line) floats..
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram MA
Novabraid USA
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 12, 2017, at 4:41 PM, Donald Sebastian via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I was think of going from top down with feeding the new line.
Hello I am the proud new owner of a 1981 C&C 32 and am trying to set up the
standing rigging. I have the use of a Loos Gauge and would like to know what
the tension should be set at. I initially set it at 15 and went sailing. The
rig has lost a few points and now reads at about 13. Are there ta
Hello all,
I think I'm going to succumb and replace our Navico PH8000 autopilot. It is
outdated to the point there are no replacement parts, the display on the wired
controller is faded, and I just can't seem to get it to cooperate. Oh well,
something had to substantially exceed the budget for
I used the Loos guidance which states between 10%and 15% of break
strength. I started with 10% on all of my shrouds, made sure they were
equal port and starboard, and recorded the values. I've been sailing and
observed the performance of the rig. The Owners manuals and collective
wisdom of the l
Bruce
Keep the Ram.
If you want full integration stay with Ray. I like their new autopilots.
Fred should have internet in a couple days. I'm sure he'll weigh in.
Joel
On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 9:18 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I think I'm going
This is not a definitive answer but simply an observation. I believe that
keeping the hydraulics is probably achievable and a good choice. They are
pretty simple. 2 drive wires (+/-) and 2 directional wires (+/-). From
what I can tell that is normal. You will have to find out how much current
Bill,
I can't picture why there is inadequate room to lock wire the screws. When
you say perpendicular to the coupler I can't picture if that is
perpendicular to the shaft or inline with the shaft. I think you're
describing inline with the shaft which makes me wonder why using a cotter
pin would
I put in a Garmin AP to drive a 3rd party hydraulic ram. Simple and works
great. Plays well with B&G components I have.I did try Raymarine AP once.
Never again.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 20
I re-sealed the Atkins & Hoyle hatch on my 34-1. I found the replacement
gasket material on-line. A little pricey but stopped the leaking.
From: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 4:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph
Subject: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hat
Bruce,
I have Raymarine instrumentation and added their autopilot. The system works
extremely well. The locked heading mode keeps the boat on course within a
degree or two while barely moving the rudder. Wind vane mode gives similar
performance. Auto tach is better than most helmsmen. Y
I guess you have to be there...so to speak...yes, in line with shaft and VERY
little room between bolts and coupler...thanks for thoughts and I get the
purpose of the lockwire...its just not quite as accessible as many other
applications that I have done with lockwire and was thinking of stacked
Here are a couple of weeks of racing drama to follow while you toil
at your (sometimes meaningless) work life.
yada yada :)
http://www.vanisle360.com/wp/
I've done the Van Isle 360 a few times, twice on an old C&C 45
war-horse. It is getting a wee bit too polished. this year even has a
cla
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