Eric, Thanks for the reply. Coupler is definitely not an easy removal as I am in the water already...very tight press fit onto shaft and not something I EVER want to remove again in the space I have in engine compartment. That said, I can pull the set bolts one at a time and clean them, and maybe get some less flammable cleaner into the bolt holes and swab them out..then blue locktite. I don't think these bolts have any markings at all, were supplied by coupler manufacturer...the tolerance between their heads and the coupler is so close can only get an open box wrench on them...so will apply whatever force I can from an 8 inch box wrench lying on my belly, blindly reaching around back side of engine, transmission and coupler. ☺ Bill Walker Cnc 36 Pentwater, Mi.
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Monday, June 12, 2017 sender via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: If the coupling is still easily removable, I'd say take it out of the boat and clean the threads on it thoroughly with brake cleaner, the jack bolts too, and then re-assemble them with lots of blue Locktite 242. Then torque them to the correct spec for the type of bolt. Since the brake cleaning spray makes a lot of flammable vapor, you'd need to think of another way to remove grease film from the coupler if it has to stay in the boat. The new coupling will almost certainly have oil residue left over from manufacturing when the tap threaded the hole. When used on clean, clean, clean threads blue Locktite will be stronger than the wire method. Don't use red Locktite, it's considered permanent and you may break the bolt trying to take it off. Look at the head of the bolt. if it's plain, it's a grade 2, if it has 3 dashes, it's grade 5. if it has 6 dashes, it's a grade 8. Go online and get the maximum "lubricated" torque value for your size bolt and torque them to the exact value. Eric On Sun, Jun 11, 2017 at 1:30 PM, William Walker via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: All, I replaced prop shaft and coupler this spring. Shaft is seated in coupler and two square head, drilled, cup pointed bolts go into dimples in shaft..i know that proper technique is to properly safety wire the bolts through drilled heads so can't come loose. But, when seated the drilled holes in bolt heads are perpendicular to coupler and there is absolutely no room to properly safety wire these.. I could remove bolts, drill opposite faces of bolt, reinstall and safety wire, BUT, I was thinking of getting proper size cup head set screws instead and stacking two in the coupler to lock them instead. Thoughts.. Sent from AOL Mobile Mail _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
