Donald:
It seems to me the tough part in any case is how you connect the old cable
to the new.
When you're hauled out, you can tape them together. When you're underwater?
I dunno. A thin messenger line tied to the old cable and the new one? If the
connector is bulky, it may get hung up while going through a sheave.
Maybe someone on the list has a better idea. I've seen a ton of clever
solutions pop up here over the years.
Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.
-----Original Message-----
From: Donald Sebastian via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 4:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Donald Sebastian
Subject: Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken
Jack,
Thanks for the information. I like that as an option.
The complication in all of this is the closest travel lift is a 4-5 day one
way motoring trip up the Ohio to Cincinnati. My closest local option to
lift would require a de-masting with a crane I hire in myself as their lift
cannot accommodate masts taller than 30 ft or so. With the haul out, crane
rental, lift rental, 2nd crane rental, and relaunch I would have several
thousand just in those services. I think the diver may be cheaper.
Thanks,
Donald
On Jun 12, 2017, at 3:47 PM, Jack Brennan via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
One alternative to consider is replacing the cable with high-tech line
such as Amsteel Blue. This is an increasingly common strategy for avoiding
steel cables failing without notice.
Amsteel Blue is stronger than the same size steel cable, impervious to
salt water and resistant to abrasion. UV is its only weak point, which is
not an issue with a centerboard cable.
On my current sailboat, I just replaced an Amsteel Blue line that had
served as a centerboard cable for eight years. The rigger who did the
(simple) job for me said it could have lasted eight more years. No wear or
deterioration at all.
The rigger's approach was to put a Brummel splice in the centerboard end,
then loop the line through it to connect to the board. Then connect the
new cable to the old one and crank it up.
If you're near a yard with a Travel Lift, you should be able to get a
two-hour short haul for about $200. That would be plenty of time to do the
job. I think the rigger charged me $75 in labor plus $20-something for the
Amsteel Blue.
Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.
-----Original Message----- From: Donald Sebastian via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 1:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Donald Sebastian
Subject: Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken
Paul,
Thank you very much for the information. I’ll contact them today. I’m
thinking its just the fitting at the actual keel as I can’t pull the
actual line up so I think the loop is still attach, or the loop is no
longer a loop but the swagging is still attached and not able to pul
through the hole.
Thanks again.
Donald
On Jun 12, 2017, at 8:35 AM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I have a 33-II with a centreboard whose pendant broke a couple of years
ago. I had Rob From South Shore yachts make and install the new one. They
had an eye fitting roll swagged on the lower end, which the fed down and
attached with a pin to the board, then hand swagged 2 fittings to make
the eye on the deck end.
When hauled the board swung just far enough forward to allow you to reach
up and remove and replace the pin. Have a new pin ready! Ours was just
about worse thru.
Contact for Rob MacLachlan at South Shore Yachts
sa...@southshoreyachts.com, or try calling (works better)
tel:905-468-4340
-----Original Message-----
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Donald
Sebastian via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 2:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Donald Sebastian <donaldsebast...@me.com>
Subject: Stus-List centerboard cable broken
Hello all,
I have a C&C 33 with a drop keel. Today as I was going to drop the keel,
from its normal 4 1/2 ft to 7 ft, the line was slack. After diving
underneath, the keel is down but it is hard to tell what exactly is going
on. My assumption is 2 things: Either the cable broke, or the pin
that the cable attaches to has broken.
I have a few questions:
1. Can this be repaired while in the water with a diver? Not a great
option to pull locally without demasting.
2. If I can’t repair immediately, would I cause damage to the keel by
sailing as is for a bit? I didn’t know if there was a stop keeping the
keel from droppiing too far?
3. If it is the attachment where the cable connects to the centerboard,
does any one have specs on that connection or pictures?
Thanks,
Donald
Louisville, KY
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_______________________________________________
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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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