Naw, you just smell a little funny! :-)
On 3/24/2014 8:03 PM, Wally Bryant wrote:
Hmm. Well, I guess I'm dead.
you wrote:
You must be able to unfasten the shackle on your harness with one
hand while suspended off the ground with your full weight on it
Brian,
My boat originally had Baltoplate. I successfully put VC Offshore over the
top of it for a number of years without any adhesion problems. The paints
are quite similar. Last year I had the boat soda blasted. I then did a
barrier coat and VC Offshore. The hull came out of the soda blast
Is that with the barrier coat and bottom paint. That's a good price of so...
T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network
- Reply message -
From: "Brian Morrison"
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
Date: Mon, Mar 24, 2014 11:02 pm
Thanks. The yard
Joe, sorry for the confusion but I think if you re-read the thread you
might see that I was talking about the backwards compatibility of the NMEA
0183 standard. It sounded to me like the Zeus takes 0183 v3.0. So my
point was that it should understand 0183 v1.5. However as one of the other
lister
Tony,
I guess that is why you are asking about the actisence. To know if it is
compatible with pre-v2.1 equipment? Is there any info on the product specs
for either the Zeus or the Actisence? Please let the group know what you
find.
Josh
On Mar 24, 2014 7:07 AM, "Tony Wroblewski" wrote:
> Jo
I used a chemical peel product several years ago. Very happy with the result.
Think it was called Peel Away made specifically for boats. They have two
products -one leaves barrier coat intact the other strips it.
--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:19, Brian Morris
That price does not sound bad
My last boat and current boat I stripped to gelcoat by hand. Paint
scraper and random orbital sander with 120 grit used carefully. Prior
to that was pressure washing using gas powered pressure washer. It was
4 x 8 hour days on a 26 footer and on a 27 footer each wi
The Defender spring sale starts on-line tomorrow at 2:00, and Thursday in
the store.
I wish I could justify the ride, but I'll have to order on-line.
--
Joel
301 541 8551
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC
I think the original note said there had been Baltoplate and then something
else on top - and the something else was what was peeling. My impression is
not many other paints (or anything else) stick to Baltoplate, so it has to
be roughed up and/or stripped off, which means what is on top is the
Before you even think about removing the "slide" track, go on line and make
sure it is not a Tides Marine Strong Track.
If it is a strong track, it is one of the better upgrades that could have been
done on your boat. Performance is far better than you will get from sail slugs
in an internal t
Rick
I can hoist the main sail on my 35 MKII to within at least 2 feet of the top
without a winch or strong track. My main sail is equipped with polymer
slides that measure 1.47" long by 0.87" wide by 0.31" thick, measured as
carefully as I could with the sail rolled and pack in its bag and these
I had a similar issue with 0183 to 2000 conversion. I bought the B&G Triton
wind, speed, depth package, thinking that I would take the mast down this year
to install the wind transducer, and that I could install the speed, depth,temp
transducer in the old housing. Neither of those installations
That is the case somewhat Gary. In most areas it peeled down to the gelcoat. If
I could get away with one season of painting on top of what's there without too
many issues I would take that.
Brian
Dr. Brian C. Morrison
> On Mar 25, 2014, at 9:58 AM, "Gary Nylander" wrote:
>
> I think the ori
Monty,
Can you give any details on what version of MNEA 0183 your instruments are
using.
Thanks,
Josh
On Mar 25, 2014 11:25 AM, "Monty Schumpert" wrote:
> I had a similar issue with 0183 to 2000 conversion. I bought the B&G
> Triton wind, speed, depth package, thinking that I would take the mas
http://www.sailsoft.nl/
They have a free trial. You can inject the sentences you are interested in and
see what happens.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 12:17 PM
To: C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-L
Josh,
Not sure. Will find out when I return from skiing Friday. They are old
though--installed around 2000, and Raytheon vice Raymarine.
Monty
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:16 AM, Josh Muckley wrote:
>
> Monty,
>
> Can you give any details on what version of MNEA 0183 your inst
If you're not looking for the ultimate racing bottom, why not do a careful
scrape to get the loose stuff off and put something on top? Talk to the
paint manufacturers or West Marine - they have tables of what goes over
what. You can put something like Hydrocoat over just about anything and,
bec
Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove on my
mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what it is.
its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove. Its is
getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower
That sounds like the original C&C (Cinkel) mast insert. They get brittle
and start cracking. Sooner or later, you may end up with a sail that
will not come down, because a cracked sliver has wedged against a slide.
The groove in that mast was not designed or shaped to be used without
that inser
Not sure if this helps, but when I look in my Bainbridge International
catalogue, 15/16" is a standard size for flat mast slides (as is 3/4" & 7/8")
sam :-)
Original Message
From: Terry pearson
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 11:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
S
Well Bill, that make perfect sense, as I couldn't figure out what type of slide
would fit that groove. And no one at the sail club had a clue either. Ive been
looking at those Tide Strong tracks but didn't want to cough up the money,
looks like a have a good reason to invest in one now! Won't th
Add me as another fan of the Strong track. I have one on my boat and it
makes it easy to get the main up.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine
On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 1:32 PM, Terry pearson wrote:
> Well Bill, that make perfect sense, as I couldn't figure out what type of
> slide would fit that groove. And n
My diminutive wife LOVES our Strong Track. She feels like a real sailor
now that she can quickly raise the main most of the way before switching
to the winch for the last little bit. The company was VERY helpful on
the phone when I had a few questions about measuring properly. They have
a littl
A local sail maker might be able to lone you a set of their sample slugs -
they usually have an assortment kit for repairs.
Ed
Prime Interest
Toronto, Canada
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry
pearson
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 20
Terry,
I have a C&C 33-II 1985, and there is no plastic track on my mast where the
main hoists - it takes a flat slide, 7/8" wide, 1 1/2" long and 1/8" thick
the track sides are a bit wider than the thickness of the loop on the
slides.
A strong track is on the wish list - but unfortunately not v
Paul (and others),
I know your system works well now but try wiping out the mast groove and
then spraying both the groove and the slugs with McLube SailKote. The
stuff dries to invisibility but it is very slippery. The mainsail slug
system will then work as well as a strong track for at least 4
Thanks Ken.
We found the biggest sources of friction were the sheeves and blocks in the
system - and have replaced all with Garhauer , including those at the mast
head .. What a difference - we do clean and LIGHTLY lube the track in the
spring ..
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc
I agree with most of what Gary says but I am not aware of many C&C boats
that ever developed blisters...my knowledge is of boats in more northern
climates maybe, like here around Nova Scotia. And as far as the racing
goes, I appreciate for guys like Dennis Connor and his book "No Excuse to
Lose" t
Hi Terry
I expect that my mast grove is similar to yours. Yes I am using flat slides
and I measured the dimensions as close as I could so you should be able to
find a close match. Those slides are relatively inexpensive so I keep
spares, webbing, waxed twine and a needle on board so I can repair w
Brian:
One always has the option doing very littlethrow another coat of
paint over the old stuff.
However, if you decide you want to do more than 'very little', you got
it right."To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive
on my part. "So true.
So, do you want to
The Lewmar Astor 44 ST winches are going on sale for $650 tomorrow at
Defender, should you be considering them.
They had 16 in stock, 14 now :-)
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35 -1
Glen Cove, NY
On 3/22/2014 5:46 PM, Rick Brass wrote:
IIRC the Barient 28 is about equivalent to a Lewmar 48 or
Jig-a-Loo is similar to McLube and less than half the price.
From: Paul Fountain
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 2:17:29 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
Terry,
I have a C&C 33-II 1985, and there is no plastic track on my mast wh
John,
Jig A Loo is silicone based. McLube is basically teflon in a spray. I
used McLube on my sail slides for the first time last year. Made a huge
difference! Next time someone goes up the mast they are taking the can
with them!
Joel
On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 4:35 PM, JOHN D IRVIN wrote:
>
Jig-a-Loo is absolutely nothing like McLube and less than half the price.
Jig-a-Loo is a silicone lubricant.
McLube is a Dry Lubricant. They behave very differently.
"Sailkote is a high performance dry lubricant specifically designed for
marine use. Sailkote is a translucent liquid that sprays
Ken Heaton is wise.
Trust Ken Heaton.
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
On Mar 25, 2014, at 5:03 PM, Ken Heaton wrote:
> Jig-a-Loo
Terry,
So to clean out the mast track you wet sanded it with 320? I have cleaned and
lubed my track and I think it needs a real good cleaning. The last third of my
hoist is way too difficult.
David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
> From: dwight...@gmail.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list
I started using McLube years ago. One can lasts several years. I simply spray
the genoa tabbing before the first hoist and it lubes the whole track. I spray
the furler track as far as I can reach from the deck using the red straw, then
spray extra on the top two feet of tabbing and a little on t
There is a very interesting thread started by Evans Starzinger over on Gear
Anarchy. The conclusion after many pages is that a tether should be very
stretchy, like 7mm dynamic climbing rope. If you hit even half the breaking
strength of most gear with zero stretch your body would be mush.
There is
The GFI didn't fit my outlet box until I attacked the box with a Dremel and
some files. It was a very tight fit. I think Graham had the same problem
and just switched to a bigger outlet box.
I found that the portside outlet breaker actually served the nav station as
well as the whole port side so
Thanks Gary. That's the kind of workaround I was hoping for.
Dr. Brian C. Morrison
> On Mar 25, 2014, at 12:53 PM, "Gary Nylander"
> wrote:
>
> If you're not looking for the ultimate racing bottom, why not do a careful
> scrape to get the loose stuff off and put something on top? Talk to the
Not concerned with racing at all or appearance on the hard for that matter. My
concerns here is sufficient protection and cost.
Dr. Brian C. Morrison
> On Mar 25, 2014, at 3:23 PM, "dwight" wrote:
>
> I agree with most of what Gary says but I am not aware of many C&C boats
> that ever develop
$1600 to professionally Soda blast bottom. Fair any problems, Barrier Coat 5
coats of InterProtect, alternating white and grey, 4 to 5 gallons. Bottom paint
for Baltimore's brackish water, Micron Extra, 2 gallons. $2000 probably doesn't
do all that is needed, just saying?
Chuck
- Origin
Thanks Rob
Dr. Brian C. Morrison
> On Mar 25, 2014, at 4:11 PM, "Robert Abbott" wrote:
>
> Brian:
>
> One always has the option doing very littlethrow another coat of paint
> over the old stuff.
>
> However, if you decide you want to do more than 'very little', you got it
> right."T
Whew!!! I'll keep that in mind for the future Chuck.
Dr. Brian C. Morrison
> On Mar 25, 2014, at 7:13 PM, "Chuck S" wrote:
>
> $1600 to professionally Soda blast bottom. Fair any problems, Barrier Coat 5
> coats of InterProtect, alternating white and grey, 4 to 5 gallons. Bottom
> paint fo
You can buy a couple small packs of slides from West or Defender? Take back the
size that doesn't fit?
- Original Message -
From: "Terry pearson"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:12:25 PM
Subject: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner
Don’t forget the mast step.
From: Brent Driedger
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2014 7:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone need some C&C30 parts?
True enough. Bulkheads could be black at the chain plates and that 40 year old
rig would need $15k worth of refit.
Brent.
Se
I got a price to sandblast, fair, barrier coat and bottom paint for $2650
including materials. They're doing the work now
From my Android phone
Original message
From: Chuck S
Date: 03/25/2014 7:12 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Pa
Gary,
I read the VC Offshore instructions today. It is approved to put over
Baltoplate. Both paints have compatible chemistry. I've done it and it
works well.
I was only reading the instruction to find out the temperature limits for
applying VC. It's currently 34F and snowing here. Evidently
Sailrite has at least a dozen different slides. Dimensions are in the
catalog.
Joel
On Tuesday, March 25, 2014, Chuck S wrote:
> You can buy a couple small packs of slides from West or Defender? Take
> back the size that doesn't fit?
>
> --
> *From: *"Terry pearson"
Indeed, I just swapped out the outlet box - they are generic home depot
types so it was painless (and I'd left the dremel at home). You will
need two boxes and GFIs, the one adjacent the electrical panel is
connected to (and protects) the galley and mast step area outlets, and
you will need on
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