I haven't tried it myself, but I read many times in various forums about
making a hole on top of the oil filter with a screwdriver to drain the oil
from it.
Might be worth a try.
Marek (s/v Fennel) in Ottawa
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Gary,
I was sailing around Rock Hall and Oxford. Didn't get to St Michaels.
Also went into Baltimore inner Harbour - had Ravens tickets!
Much more civilized on the western side, but great sailing over to the east.
Great sun and wind. No rain all week - unusual for the Chesapeake - well when
we go
Well, be careful. I had a mechanic--hired by the owner--do that on the big
Volvo on a Swan 65 once. Had to replace the engine!
On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 6:16 PM, wrote:
> This has been done on this boat for years. You just need to be prudent.
> However, it still makes it easy to do the bucket th
Until I did the y-valve install, so did I...but I thought the heat exchanger
protected the closed loop of the engine from any excess pressure. Assuming, of
course, its a fresh water cooled engine...Raw water cooled...another story.
David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
To: cnc-list@c
This has been done on this boat for years. You just need to be prudent.
However, it still makes it easy to do the bucket thing, as well.
-Original Message-
From: Andrew Burton
To: cnc-list
Sent: Wed, Nov 14, 2012 6:11 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for C&C34
I
I've seen advice like this a couple of times. Be very careful about hooking
an land pressure water hose to your raw water system. As a matter of fact,
don't do it. You can end up filling the exhaust manifold and the cylinders
with water, which unsurprisingly, is bad for the engine. Far better to
re
Or y-valve another intake hose with a screened pick-up. Great for winterizing
and another source of bilge water removal. Real simple and adds a little
piece of mind
David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
To: fastguy1...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; robertabb...@eastlink.ca
F
For the filter, unscrew it inside a ziploc bag (once you've loosened it).
Still a bit of mess, but less.
Tim
Mojito
35-3
Branford, CT
On Nov 14, 2012, at 4:59 PM, David Risch wrote:
> Mark,
>
> I would run the engine a bit more with water after the oil change so that
> you can check oil le
Or have a very resourceful PO who plumbed in circuit with a valve and hose
connection that enables one to close off the the outside intake, connect hose
to outside water source, open the valve in the plumbed in circuit and run the
engine quite merrily in minutes.
Cheers,
John
"Falcon" -- C&C 2
FWIW -the discussion got me to check. I had thought the access panels on my
35-3 were standard laminate but they appear to be fiberglass panels that are
very thin - texture and finish on the front but some definite random strands
and resin on the unfinished back. That said, they are very much like
Where were you, Sam? There is actually quite a bit over here, but just not a
whole bunch of commercialization, which is the way we like it. We're an hour
and a half from DC and Baltimore, so that is enough 'civilization' for most of
us.
And about 5-600 miles of shoreline in our county alone - O
Mark,
I would run the engine a bit more with water after the oil change so that you
can check oil level and top off if needed. Then proceed to run anti-freeze
through engine.
Prepare for a big mess with the filter. Lots of paper towels etc.
David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
Thanks everyone! Lots of great options! I need to measure the longest
panel and narrow down the materials.*The Office* has come a long way in a
year, and you guys have been invaluable!
On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 4:32 PM, Persuasion wrote:
> Joel
>
> I’ve replaced the access panels on my headli
Robert and Jonathon, and all,
Thanks for the tips; are there suggestions about best practices when
doing oil changes on the 34?
Mark
From: Robert Abbott
To: Mark Meyer ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 9:05 AM
Subject: Winterizing
Joel
I’ve replaced the access panels on my headliner with 1/8” FRP that can be
bought at Home Depot in 4 X 8 sheets. Used the old panels as templates. I
tried attaching a couple of panels with velcro. Didn’t like the look. Too
thick. Next I tried screws like the originals were attached. A
This summer, I replaced the headliner panels on my 29-2.
Used new 1/8 plywood to make new panels.
Painted the upper face.
Bought plastic veneer like the stuff that you iron onto the edge of particle
board.
Home depot sells this in 12" x 99" rolls - "Bernnett Preglued Melamine
Veneer"
Just use
Richard: C&C has used a variety of materials and fastening methods on the
various boats over the years and some have been more durable than others
depending on the environment in which they find themselves.
Rich Knowles
INDIGO - LF38
Halifax, NS
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun..
Here's some other stuff I have used for lining commercial garages that looks
very nice and is friendly to use:
http://www.palramamericas.com/Wall-Tuf
Rich
Rich Knowles
INDIGO - LF38
Halifax, NS
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Richard,
In the case of my boat, it is not the headliner, but the access panels that
are the problem. They are vinyl over plywood. The long ones are screwed
in, the more rectangular ones under the winches have velcro. Over the
years there have been leaks that have caused the plywood to fail in
I hate to be the caboose on this conversation but I do not understand what is
happening to the headliners on the boats, I've never had a headliner fall or
come apart, can someone explain what is happening and possibly the cause?
thanks.
Richard
1987 33-II
Richard N. Bush Law Offices
235 Sou
You can also get sheets of thin, white plastic (8' x 4') at Home Depot, RONA
and I suspect Lowes (but I've never been in a Lowes)
Not used it for headliners but I have used it for covers inside to put over
access holes for winch and jammer bolts.
sam :-)
On 2012-11-14, at 9:06 AM, Joel Aronson
I was sailing the eastern shore of Maryland about 6 weeks ago - your right
there is nothing there!
Get it online:
Sailrite: http://www.sailrite.com/3M-Dual-Lock-Type-250-1-Clear
Amazon, eBay, office depot
sam :-)
On 2012-11-14, at 8:44 AM, "Gary Nylander" wrote:
> Where do you get it?
>
> G
A race with one of the best participation records here in the PNW is a single
or double handed pursuit race. The Sloop Tavern Yacht Club's Race to the
Straits will see 80 to 100 boats enter. A 24 foot cruising style design may
start at 8am, a SC 70 around 10:15. GPS time is used as the offici
Joel
I replaced all the headliner panels on Alianna a few years ago with 1/8 inch
thick white Plexiglas fastened with round head Phillips stainless steel
screws which is what was there when I took ownership and which Wally calls
the "industrial" look. It looked fine when I first did it but after a
We have just a few predetermined courses for Pursuit. One member has a program
with each boat (small fleet - maybe 15 boats in his program) and the starting
setbacks for the courses. We have one boat which is our highest handicap boat (
a fiberglass copy of a Hereschoff Fish - handicap 350 (arbi
I picked up a pack at West Marine several years ago .Not cheap but works
well
On 14/11/2012 10:44 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:
Where do you get it?
Gary
30-1 in the boondocks on the Eastern Shore of Maryland - Lowe's
nearby, but over 50 miles to anything else
- Original Message -
Where do you get it?
Gary
30-1 in the boondocks on the Eastern Shore of Maryland - Lowe's nearby, but
over 50 miles to anything else
- Original Message -
From: Sam Salter
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner acces
At a YC in Sydney Australia a race is held every week throughout most of
the year. Your start time, based on your recent performance, is posted
on their website. The start line is just off the club house. A large
digital clock, which is visible from the starting area, is used as a
reference. Of
Dennis,
We do a couple of pursuit races too both with courses that are set well in
advance so the distances are known. I am not sure I understand your comment
about choosing a maximum handicap. We find out ahead of the race who plans
to participate and then work the time differences starting w
Mark:
If your boat in 'on the hard', you will need a few pieces of hardware to
do the job.oil pump, garden hose, large bucket and a 10' foot piece
of the hose the same diameter as the hose that attaches to your raw
water pump.
Remove the hose on the inlet side of your water pumpattac
Mike,
We do pursuits in my area also. We use set courses so the distance is known.
You have to choose a maximum handicap and go from there.
Go to Corinthians.org click on the "sailing instructions" link. Then look at
the staggered start documents.
Dennis C.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 14, 2
Gary
How do you determine start times for each boat in your pursuit races? We have
tried a couple of methods and all seem a bit problematic but tremendous fun.
Our sailors love pursuit format but it is a bit of work beforeheand for the
Race Committee
Mike
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