[RBW] FS: (Riv-adjacent) Black Mountain Cycles "Road"

[Dan]

For your consideration: my 62cm Black Mountain Cycles "Road" in the Merckx 
colorway. Build is Shimano Tiagra/GRX w/ Wolfooth NW ring, Thomson seapost 
and collar, Fizik stem, Pro bars, Tektro brakes, front brake lever is a 
Tektro aero, rear is a Tiagra brifter, Panaracer Gravel King tires. Saddle 
not included.

Shown with 82cm saddle height:
https://imgur.com/a/NPQNQvb

Is it a Rivendell? Sorry, no, but the geo is close to a 61cm Roadeo but 
with 20mm more reach (and some other minor differences that I consider 
close enough to come out in the wash):  
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5d61b35e6b56b4001760f48d,5b8578f548f3a30004789b17,&builds=,64aacf93ef92a7001f16d310,

$1050. Located in SoCal.  I have a bike box and will ship at cost 
(PirateShip--or you provide label), if you're not local.

Dan Af
Yorba Linda, CA

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[RBW] FS: 58cm 650B AHH F/F/HS

[Dan]

I have a 2017 58cm AHH that is I'm ready to pass along to a new home. This 
is a 58cm 650B A. Homer Hillsen, which I believe makes it a Waterford.  
Frame shows some chips and wear but no dents, no rust. Seatpost not 
included. Additional parts are available; let me know what you might need. 
Asking $1400 + shipping. Price includes frame, fork, and Tange headset. 

For +$300 (only with the frameset), I'll include wheels and tire. Wheels 
are all silver with Velocity rims, SP dynamo, Bitex cassette rear, wrapped 
in (white) Soma Grand Randonneur tires, plus 1 extra tires (still in 
wrapper). 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/WygAM61nM5u6uiNJA

Daniel
LA, CA, USA

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[RBW] Re: FS: 58cm 650B AHH F/F/HS

[Dan]

Good morning. I was told that the measurements didn't come through clearly 
in the pictures, so I remeasured and this is a 56. It's squarely 56cm, 
measured center to center. When I posted yesterday I misremembered and 
unfortunately I can't change the subject line.  *It is a 56cm.* 

The seat tube measures 56cm CTC and the TT (CTC, but there's a 2* slope) is 
about 562. Riv's geo chart is here: 
https://web.archive.org/web/20170602082329/https://www.rivbike.com/pages/geometry

And here's the geo on BikeInsights (comparing the 56 and the 58): 
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5a1e69902a0c030014708caa,5a1e69902a0c030014708cab,

Finally, here's the product page from that same archive/same era is here: 
https://web.archive.org/web/20170704042854/https://www.rivbike.com/collections/framesets/products/a-homer-hilsen

The only picture with the measuring tape I can discern is the headtube 
(~246mm), which is not a helpful measurement, IMO, but I know a lot of 
people look at that like gospel.



Daniel in LA, CA, USA
On Monday, February 19, 2024 at 4:52:13 PM UTC-8 Dan wrote:

> I have a 2017 58cm AHH that is I'm ready to pass along to a new home. This 
> is a 58cm 650B A. Homer Hillsen, which I believe makes it a Waterford.  
> Frame shows some chips and wear but no dents, no rust. Seatpost not 
> included. Additional parts are available; let me know what you might need. 
> Asking $1400 + shipping. Price includes frame, fork, and Tange headset. 
>
> For +$300 (only with the frameset), I'll include wheels and tire. Wheels 
> are all silver with Velocity rims, SP dynamo, Bitex cassette rear, wrapped 
> in (white) Soma Grand Randonneur tires, plus 1 extra tires (still in 
> wrapper). 
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/WygAM61nM5u6uiNJA
>
> Daniel
> LA, CA, USA
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Ron's Ortho... stem question

[Dan]

Chris, can I ask how this ended up working for you? If so, what shim did 
you use?

I've set up my Appaloosa with the Orthos and a 120mm VO single-bolt 26.0mm 
stem.
The comfort and control is FANTASTIC, but I can make the bars slip if I 
push down on them hard. So far it hasn't happened while riding, but it 
makes me feel a little uneasy that it might be possible.

I'm wondering if I need to go for a 31.8mm Nitto faceplater or, *gasp*, a 
threadless adapter and threadless stem :S
On Wednesday 13 March 2024 at 09:07:59 UTC+10:30 Chris K wrote:

> Again, thanks much for all the replies and info. I think I'll get the 135 
> Faceplater. The reason for getting the Nitto Riv version instead of one of 
> these awesome Ritchie's is I need the extra height.
>
> FWIW, Ron says a 25.4 clamp works with the 26.0 bar if you pry it open 
> just a touch to fit it in. Bit of a hack I suppose, but I'm gonna give it a 
> shot.
>
> On Tue, Mar 12, 2024 at 3:27 PM Brian McDermott  
> wrote:
>
>>
>> I went from Billies to orthos on my Appaloosa, had to go from a 120 to 
>> 130 for the extra sweep. Finding a suitable 26.0 stem was a challenge, 
>> ended up with a Miyata pantographed stem from eBay.
>> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 10:03:24 AM UTC-7 Chris K wrote:
>>
>>> Hey all, I've got some Ortho Bars in my cart and looking for stem advice 
>>> from those who use this bar. Obv there are multiple fit and frame factors 
>>> that play into something like this, but curious what people are generally 
>>> going with. Here are the options I'm deciding between:
>>>
>>> - Faceplater 110mm
>>> - Faceplater 135mm
>>> - Tallux 12cm
>>>
>>> Will the 110 Faceplater be too short?
>>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: NBD - Purple Appaloosa

[Dan]

Thank you everyone for your kind words. I'm enjoying the bike more the more 
I ride it - it engenders a different, more relaxed pace - perfect for 
exploring.

Eric, your Appaloosa with Ortho bars was an insipiration for me, so your 
words mean a lot!

Jay - funny you mention C&L, because this frame actually made its way to me 
from them! They are super nice people and I love what they're doing with 
bikes (obviously).

On Saturday 6 April 2024 at 05:17:36 UTC+10:30 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Great post and run-down, Dan! The Appaloosa is lookin' good. 
>
> On Monday, April 1, 2024 at 5:29:46 PM UTC-4 Jay wrote:
>
>> I also love this post!
>>
>> I was in C&L Cycle, home of the Bassi and noticed the Bloomfield.  That 
>> caught me eye in your write up so I thought I would mention.
>>
>> That purple is amazing.  Enjoy!
>>
>> On Monday, April 1, 2024 at 12:55:20 PM UTC-4 mrg...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Great story and pics, thanks for sharing Dan. Congrats on the new bike. 
>>> It's making me want to put rons bars back on the atlantis. 
>>>
>>> mike in austin tx
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, April 1, 2024 at 2:44:46 AM UTC-5 Dan wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi everyone, I’d like to share the story of my new purple Appaloosa. 
>>>> I’ve gained a great deal of insight and enjoyment from reading this forum, 
>>>> so it’s only right that I return the favour with a story of my own.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> From the first time I had heard that there was a company called 
>>>> Rivendell, I knew that someday I’d be riding one. I’d avidly read Tolkein 
>>>> in my childhood, so to hear that there were LotR themed bicycles - and 
>>>> that 
>>>> they were so beautiful! - was just fascinating to me. The more I read 
>>>> about 
>>>> the bikes and the philosophy, the more I was convinced. The final straw 
>>>> was 
>>>> coming across ‘Calling In Sick Magazine’, aka the unofficial Rivendell fan 
>>>> magazine. Reading the stories and looking at the photos of those people 
>>>> riding on dry hills near the ocean, in terrain not to dissimilar to what I 
>>>> ride here in Adelaide, Australia, gave me the impetus to make my dream a 
>>>> reality.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> So, why did I choose an Appaloosa? To answer that, here is a little bit 
>>>> about the other bikes in my stable…
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *Surly Straggler*
>>>>
>>>> This was my first ‘nice’ bike, the first bike I actually did any 
>>>> research on before buying. I bought it to be my only bike and a do-it-all 
>>>> bike, one that would be reliable and fun both day-to-day and on riding 
>>>> anywhere and everywhere when I felt like adventure. In that, it’s met all 
>>>> my expectations and then some. It’s set up with a rack and fenders as a 
>>>> commuter, but over time I’ve tweaked it with wider, flared drops, fatter, 
>>>> more supple rubber and lower gearing to suit my increasing desire to 
>>>> explore. I’ve ridden this bike on two (metric) centuries, countless 
>>>> suburban explorations, in the rain, on gravel, and on single track. It 
>>>> does 
>>>> it all, more or less. I’ve never liked the looks of the stack of spacers I 
>>>> needed to get the bars high, and the gearing is probably a bit high, 
>>>> though 
>>>> that has made me stronger. Descending on the dirt, even with the flared 
>>>> drops, is a whole-body workout. Side note - I actually wanted a Cross 
>>>> Check, but they weren’t available to order in Australia when I bought this 
>>>> bike.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> [image: IMG_0580.jpeg]
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *Bassi Bloomfield*
>>>>
>>>> It took a while to allow myself the thought that it was ok to have more 
>>>> than one bike. I’d been browsing Blue Lug and watching Terry Barentsen 
>>>> during the pandemic and fell in love with the idea of 650b, fat tyres, 
>>>> upright bars and front baskets. The day after I’d decided that I could get 
>>>> myself another bike, my local bike shop listed a whole bunch of Bassi 
>>>> frames for sale. The clearance for wide 650b tyres and the flower head 
>>>> tube 
>>>> graphic sold me instantly!
>>>>
>>>> This bike has been a revelation for me. There’s something about it - 
>>>> the wid

[RBW] Re: Long Chainstays - What Problem/Deficiency Do They Solve?

[Dan]

Roy, I've found I have BETTER climbing ability on my Appaloosa with its 
super-long stays. If you stay seated your weight is rearward enough for 
traction, and thanks to the long stays the front end doesn't want to lift. 
That means you don't have to lean forward as much as you would on a 
regular-stayed bike which again improves traction on the rear end.
In practice, climbing steep dirt paths with the Appaloosa feels like I have 
a motor out back that pushes me up the hill. It's great!

On Saturday 6 April 2024 at 11:15:28 UTC+10:30 Roy Summer wrote:

>
> Long chain stays usually mean a longer wheelbase which means a more 
> comfortable ride because you’re not sitting on top of the rear wheel (think 
> compact car vs. limo) and less climbing ability as the rider, again, is not 
> sitting over the rear wheel. That said, use a lower gear to climb and don’t 
> worry about being first in the mountain stages at the TDF. A longer 
> wheelbase also generally results in a somewhat slower handling bike ( not 
> that it is dangerous, just not twitchy) so leave the long chain stay ride 
> home when you do your next crit.
> On Sunday, March 31, 2024 at 1:50:18 PM UTC-4 John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ 
> wrote:
>
>> Enjoyed reading the thread "Anyone else not a fan of long chainstays?", 
>> especially Bill L's explanation of the RBW bike design philosophy.   Seems 
>> the prevailing thought is long stays are better for
>> upright riding
>> single track type trails (vs a Rails to Trails type trail)
>>
>> I'll just note 2 'facts'
>> 1  The vast majority of RBW models (except the Roadeo type frame) use 
>> slack STA and HTA which may contribute to the ride effect when coupled with 
>> long stays.
>> 2.  In the beginning RBW addressed getting the bars higher and adopting a 
>> non-racer riding style (back at 45° with hands on hoods), which IMHO were 
>> solutions to actual problems.
>>
>> *So What problem or current deficiency in bike design is Grant solving by 
>> using long chain stays*
>> Just to bring bikes to market that no one else is building??
>> Or do they solve a real problem???
>>
>> John Hawrylak
>> Woodstown NJ
>>
>> FWIW 2 of 3 of my frames have 44 to 45cm chain stays, and 1 has a 43cm 
>> chain stay.It's hard to notice a ride difference.
>>
>

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[RBW] FS Paul Comp Racer - Pair 'o' silver w/ hangers, fresh pads

[Dan]

This is a nice way to upgrade your braking with a MUSA classic.

recessed mount Racers in silver (anodized) finish
Paul straddle wire
roller straddle hanger
fresh (NIB) Kool Stops (same as stock)
Surly (rear) cable hanger
1" headset mounted cable hanger with barrel adjuster
Red cherry cable ends

see https://photos.app.goo.gl/C8JdRuNGGsnwCek8A for pictures

$340 shipped/insured 

Dan
Yorba Linda, CA, USA

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[RBW] Re: FS Paul Comp Racer - Pair 'o' silver w/ hangers, fresh pads

[Dan]

Good morning. Saturday morning price drop to... $320

On Friday, April 12, 2024 at 6:59:37 AM UTC-7 Dan wrote:

> This is a nice way to upgrade your braking with a MUSA classic.
>
> recessed mount Racers in silver (anodized) finish
> Paul straddle wire
> roller straddle hanger
> fresh (NIB) Kool Stops (same as stock)
> Surly (rear) cable hanger
> 1" headset mounted cable hanger with barrel adjuster
> Red cherry cable ends
>
> see https://photos.app.goo.gl/C8JdRuNGGsnwCek8A for pictures
>
> $340 shipped/insured 
>
> Dan
> Yorba Linda, CA, USA
>

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[RBW] FS 2017 58cm (CTT) Homer AHH Frame, Fork, Headset

[Dan]

Relisting since Spring has sprung.

Dropped the price to $1300 + ship for the frame, fork, headset.

This is a 2017 "short" chainstay, Waterford (I believe) A. Homer Hilsen

It measures 58cm CTT (which is, I think, how Riv measures) or 56 CTC on the 
seattube x ~56.5cm TT. The chainstayz are 47cm (center of drop out to 
center of BB shell).

Condition-wise, this is a handsome frame but there are paint chips and 
wear, but no dents, no rust.

I might have parts you need, but I think I will hang onto my spare 650B 
wheels which I had previously offered. 

Fresh photos (just shot earlier today): 
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WygAM61nM5u6uiNJA

Located in the greater LA area. I can get a box from the LBS and ship 
safely, with a label from PirateShip.

Cheers!

Daniel
Yorba Linda, CA

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[RBW] Re: Long wheelbase = long chain

[Dan]

I'd like to hijack this thread with a question relevant to the title, if 
not the OP's actual question:

*How do people manage the lng chain getting wedged between the tyre and 
chainstay?*
I'm loving my Appaloosa so far, but when I'm in my 24t chainring and on a 
bumpy road, the chain flys around, hits the knobby side of my rear tyre, 
and gets sucked in and wedged. It's not a great sound.

My first angle of attack is to go for a slightly wider BB. There's a 115mm 
BB installed now, but the crank manufacturer 

 
recommends a 119mm.
After that, I'm going to try and fashion a kind of chain bash guard like 
Ultraromance did  
on his Atlantis for this very issue. Finally, I'd look at swapping the rear 
derailleur for one with more tension maybe? I'm using the Deore M591, which 
looks good, but maybe a different derailleur with stronger spring would 
lessen the chain flying around?

On Friday 26 April 2024 at 00:27:12 UTC+9:30 Edwin W wrote:

> I have a Joe Appa with long chain stays, which necessitates a long chain, 
> longer than a single chain.
>
> For all of you out there with a long chain bike, what are your best 
> tips/tricks/techniques for purchasing a chain. Where do you go for a long 
> chain?
>
> What else do you think about with chain replacement, maintenance, etc...
>
> Lifelong learner, breaking cobbled together chains,
>
> Edwin
>

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[RBW] Re: Long wheelbase = long chain

[Dan]

Bill:
Yes, that’s how I’ve been managing it. Works perfectly that way, and I take 
it as good training for front derailluer shifts. 

Kiziria:
Thank you so much, that’s EXACTLY what I’m looking for! I’ll be sourcing 
one of these for sure. Wow. 

On Saturday 27 April 2024 at 09:05:18 UTC+9:30 kiziria...@gmail.com wrote:

> Plenty of Shimano Shark Fin's on eBay and elsewhere still to be had. Chain 
> suck be gone. 
>
> On Friday, April 26, 2024 at 3:08:16 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> "maybe a different derailleur with stronger spring would lessen the chain 
>> flying around?"
>>
>> Or a derailleur with a clutch would lessen the chain flying around.  IMO 
>> there is some technique involved also.  The upper run of chain is only 
>> slack when you are coasting.  Keep it stuck in your head that if you are 
>> coasting you ought to already be in the big ring.  Maybe that's not 
>> practical on your terrain, but it's basically impossible for that chain 
>> mishap to happen from the big ring.  
>>
>> Another idea is a mullet tire setup: wider in front and narrower in back. 
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito. CA
>>
>> On Friday, April 26, 2024 at 3:02:06 PM UTC-7 Dan wrote:
>>
>>> I'd like to hijack this thread with a question relevant to the title, if 
>>> not the OP's actual question:
>>>
>>> *How do people manage the lng chain getting wedged between the tyre 
>>> and chainstay?*
>>> I'm loving my Appaloosa so far, but when I'm in my 24t chainring and on 
>>> a bumpy road, the chain flys around, hits the knobby side of my rear tyre, 
>>> and gets sucked in and wedged. It's not a great sound.
>>>
>>> My first angle of attack is to go for a slightly wider BB. There's a 
>>> 115mm BB installed now, but the crank manufacturer 
>>> <https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m8b0s109p3383/SPA-CYCLES-TD-2-Super-Compact-Chainset-with-Zicral-Rings>
>>>  
>>> recommends a 119mm.
>>> After that, I'm going to try and fashion a kind of chain bash guard like 
>>> Ultraromance did 
>>> <https://youtu.be/B_0qSPMps48?si=Mng6dfjgzG4_QoBY&t=234> on his 
>>> Atlantis for this very issue. Finally, I'd look at swapping the rear 
>>> derailleur for one with more tension maybe? I'm using the Deore M591, which 
>>> looks good, but maybe a different derailleur with stronger spring would 
>>> lessen the chain flying around?
>>>
>>> On Friday 26 April 2024 at 00:27:12 UTC+9:30 Edwin W wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have a Joe Appa with long chain stays, which necessitates a long 
>>>> chain, longer than a single chain.
>>>>
>>>> For all of you out there with a long chain bike, what are your best 
>>>> tips/tricks/techniques for purchasing a chain. Where do you go for a long 
>>>> chain?
>>>>
>>>> What else do you think about with chain replacement, maintenance, etc...
>>>>
>>>> Lifelong learner, breaking cobbled together chains,
>>>>
>>>> Edwin
>>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Ride Report: Appaloosa Overnighter

[Dan]

Thank you for the kind responses everyone.

Randy, Nicholas: I'd love to see photos of your Appaloosas set up for 
touring, if you haven't shared them already.

Patrick: I enjoy reading the reports from the foreign lands of the USA too 
;)
I wish I could see mountains on the horizon! 

On Wednesday 1 May 2024 at 04:12:22 UTC+9:30 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Thanks for more very interesting report and photos from worldwide 
> Rivendell riders. The rangeland looks much like the US Southwest but 
> without the inevitable mountains on the horizon.
>
> On Sun, Apr 28, 2024 at 5:44 AM Dan  wrote:
>
>> I bought my Appaloosa because I wanted a bike for adventures. I wanted a 
>> bike that could take me and my things anywhere, on or off road. A bike that 
>> was comfortable enough to ride all day for days.
>>
>> To that end, one month after my new Appaloosa rolled out of the shop, I 
>> departed with a friend on what would be my first ever overnighter!
>>
>>
>> *Disaster strikes*
>>
>> On the morning of the ride I felt great. I was packed, I’d made it to the 
>> 7:28am train, and I was waiting at another station to join my friend on a 
>> train that would take us to the end of the line. Looking at my bike, I 
>> noticed the seat was a little crooked. I loosened the bolt, straightened 
>> the seat, and tightened it. The train arrived, I hopped on, said hi to my 
>> friend, and noticed the seat was still moving when I tried to twist it. So 
>> I attempted to tighten it some more.
>>
>>
>> **SNAP**
>>
>>
>> The seatpost binder bolt had snapped. I stared in disbelief at the broken 
>> bolt in my hands. No!
>>
>> I recalled reading on the Analog Cycles website that Rivs use a standard 
>> bolt for their seatposts, so we spent the remainder of the train ride 
>> frantically searching for an open hardware store. Unfortunately, it was the 
>> ANZAC Day public holiday and so all shops only opened at 12pm. We were out 
>> of luck. Defeated, we resigned to train back to town so I could swap my 
>> gear over to my Straggler.
>>
>> As we neared my front door, my friend had a brainwave. “What if you see 
>> if you have the right bolt at home?”. It turns out that I did - on an 
>> unused post-to-IS-mount disc brake adapter - and the Riv was on the road 
>> again! This time, I made sure to grease the bolt before install, and it 
>> tightened smoothly and snugly.
>>
>>
>> *On the Road*
>>
>> Our destination was a series of seaside holiday towns on the south coast 
>> of South Australia’s Fluerieu Peninsula. We started our riding at the end 
>> of the train line, in the picturesque wine region of McLaren Vale. After a 
>> well-earned coffee, we rode through autumn-hued vineyards before reaching 
>> the escarpment - our big climb for the day. I learned that even a 24x36 low 
>> gear doesn’t make for an easy climb of 10+% gravel grades, and we enjoyed a 
>> walk up the hill in good spirits.
>>
>>
>> Following lunch at the top of the escarpment, we made our way through the 
>> rolling landscape of the peninsula, passing through a forest plantation and 
>> several conservation parks on the way. After an unexpected creek crossing 
>> we ran in to a family of campers, whose comment of ‘I couldn’t imagine two 
>> bikes better set up for adventure’ left us in smiles. We even felt good 
>> about the next hour or so of alternately walking and riding through the 
>> sandy scrubland!
>>
>>
>> Despite the late start, we made it to the coast at the perfect time - 
>> just as the sun was setting. I’d planned the last few km to follow the bike 
>> path along the coast, and it was sublime.
>>
>> [image: IMG_1195.jpeg]
>>
>> [image: E0C3AD72-4167-49D8-95CC-B6678632E349.jpg]
>>
>> [image: IMG_1221.jpeg]
>>
>> [image: IMG_1233.jpeg]
>>
>>
>>
>> *Day Two*
>>
>> I’m one of those people that just can’t ride the same way twice on one 
>> trip. My rides have to be loops. Our return leg was longer than the first 
>> one, eventuating in 90km of riding with some 1,400m of climbing. We set out 
>> early took our time, enjoying the expansive vistas from the gravel farm 
>> roads, and finding our zone in the long, gradual climbs. Memorable moments 
>> include meeting some people hiking the Heysen trail while we had stopped in 
>> what we thought was the middle of nowhere to have a snack, and coffee and 
>> scones in the cozy, wood-panelled cafe in the tiny town of Inman Valley. 
>> After passing through the Myponga reservoir and enjoying

[RBW] Re: My Rivendell Platypus - A Forever Bike Build

[Dan]

I thoroughly enjoyed this write-up. I can tell you've put in a lot of 
thought to this bike, and it's beautiful.
Your approach to this build as a performance upright bicycle and your 
subsequent revelations as to the comfort mirror my own on my new, purple 
Appaloosa. I have the same bars too, but slightly wider tyres! All I need 
is some bar tape and to mount my shifters upside down like yours for those 
secondary hand positions to really be dialled.
Hope you have many more adventures to come.

PS: I was told the Quills couldn't handle 48s (I have them on my 
singlespeed). Are you running yours tubeless?


On Wednesday 15 May 2024 at 09:26:44 UTC+9:30 kiziria...@gmail.com wrote:

> The complete build list is as follows. *View all photos here. 
> 
>  
> *
>
> Cockpit features a Nitto 135mm Faceplater Stem with Rons Ortho Bars, 
> Brooks leather ergon grips with Simworks purple bar ends, Rivendell S2 
> friction shifters, with harlequin style newbuams purple/yellow wrap with 
> clear shellac, and a stem-mounted spurcycle bell. S83 seatpost with Brooks 
> B17 titanium. NOS Dura-Ace headset.
>
> [image: IMG_3282.JPG]
>
> Brakes feature Paul Canti Levers with Touring Canti’s, Moon units, and 
> Hunter cycles Nugz for extra cable adjustment. Rene herse and nitto cable 
> hangars. Yokozuna reaction compressionless housing. All capped off with 
> Forager cycles cable cherries. Kool stop brake pads with the grey e-bike 
> pad compound. This was my final hurrah to test the ultimate canti-lever 
> brake setup and deem its worthiness as a brake. It has not passed by test. 
> Riv recommends v-brakes for several valid reasons.
>
> Custom wheelset featuring White Industries MI5 hubs laced to Velocity 
> Quill rims with Sapim spokes and brass nipples, 32h front, 36h rear, all 
> polished. Rene Herse Tires, 48mm Hatcher Pass and Oracle Ridge. I will 
> likely keep an endurance casing Oracle ridge as a final tire choice, setup 
> tubeless with Ultradynamico brass tubeless valves. I like riding fast, 
> especially on dirt. 
>
> Drivetrain features an ultra rare 110/73bcd Middleburn lightweight road 
> triple with 42/28t gearing and Rivendell chain guard and brass 
> self-extractors. Aluminum Sugino 28t chainring and aluminum chainring 
> hardware for weight reduction. NOS Dura-Ace 7700 sealed cartridge Bottom 
> bracket. Pedals are MKS Pretzel with shorter 4-5mm length brass set screws 
> to replace the 6mm long aggressive steel pins. Ultegra PD-ES600 SPD pedals 
> for longer rides when I want to be clipped in. Deore XT 9-speed 11-34 
> cassette, with NOS Dura Ace 7700 mid-cage rear derailleur (wolftooth 
> roadlink to clear the 34t), Dura Ace 7800 double front derailleur. KMC 
> 10-speed X10SL with the gold treatment, because, gold! This all shifts 
> *wonderfully.*
>
> Accessories include Nitto F32 front rack with Tanaka stainless steel 
> basket held by Voile mini straps, Nitto 32r rear rack with cygolite rear 
> light mount. Front rack features upcycled 28t chainring for my cygolite 
> go-pro mount (blue lug style) and M6 brass set screws to fill the unused 
> braze-ons. Blue Lug yellow X-Strap bungee cords front and rear, with the x2 
> rainbow Rivendell straps laced through the basket to handle any odd things 
> to carry on the fly. Beautiful Nitto R bottle cage on top, with ultra rare 
> matching Nitto BG-L 1-liter bottle cage on the bottom. Greenfield kickstand 
> wrapped with newbaums purple. Purple Blue Lug Koma lights front and rear at 
> the drop-outs for when I forget to bring my nicer lights. Newbaums wrap on 
> top tube for convenient handle grip when carrying up/down stairs to the 
> train. Blue lug style newbaums chainstay guard. Hemp twine features 
> everywhere. Lastly, any unused braze-ons are populated with M5 brass set 
> screws, including the backside of the utilized hourglass mounts 😉
>
> Security includes hexlox axles, with the same keyed inserts for the 
> seatpost clamp, stem, and saddle. GPS sticker for theft deterrent. Hidden 
> air tag. Serial number registered in two bike indexes. I purchased a 
> Kryptonite mini New York u-lock off ebay ($60 new!). It is absurd and 
> confidence inspiring. Makes my evolution mini u-lock look like a joke. 
>
> One bit I forgot to mention. The inner position of the lower rear right 
> rack mount are positioned perfectly for a chain holder, as 80's touring 
> bikes used to have. An Acetal bushing with delrin washers result in not 
> just a chain holder, but the ability to backpedal and lube the chain wit 
> the wheel off. 
>
>
> Thanks for reading! 
> Armand 
> Santa Monica, CA
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: My Rivendell Platypus - A Forever Bike Build

[Dan]

Thanks for the followup, Armand. Your experience is likely what made my LBS 
recommend me staying with the 43s on my Quills. But good to know it's 
possible if I ever insist! I don't mind anyway on that bike - the 43s suit 
it perfectly and are plenty comfortable. They leave room for fenders too.

With regards to switching to an Appaloosa, firstly, it's a great bike! I 
love mine.
Secondly, be aware that the geometry is slightly different at the front. 
The Appaloosa has a 72 degree head tube angle vs. the 69.5 on the Platypus.
Not sure what that means for real-world handling but I thought I'd point it 
out.
Which brings me to my next point: have you considered an Atlantis? I think 
they have a similar HTU (70) and slightly more tyre clearance than an 
Appaloosa too. The trouble is finding one...

On Monday 27 May 2024 at 02:49:08 UTC+9:30 kiziria...@gmail.com wrote:

> Oh and @Dan, tubeless was without unordinary issue on the Velocity Quills. 
> I will say though...
>
> I setup the same tires on my wheelset, and my partners bike, which has 
> some WTB KOM i25 rims. The tires setup MUCH more easily on the WTB rims. 
> The Quill's didn't present any *real* issue, but it was the difference of 
> having tires immediately seat onto the bead with zero leakage, vs fussing 
> for 2-minutes for the bead to catch on and stop splattering sealant 
> everywhere. I used an air compressor with valve cores removed to initially 
> seat the bead. 
>
> This is consistent with my experiences as a former bike mechanic. WTB's 
> rims and tires have incredibly tight tolerances, for the better. I've 
> personally never had a Velocity wheel setup as easily as a WTB rim. The 
> tolerances of the bead shelf diameter can be tighter.
>
> Just yesterday I was on a long bike commute, put the bike on one of those 
> public work stands to add some air to my tires, and my stupid Lezyne 
> thread-on bike pump unthreaded my valve core upon removal (yes I purged the 
> air before unthreading, and the valve core was tightened appropriately). I 
> was surprised to see the bead of the tire unseat due to the pressure loss. 
> My little hand pump did inflate the tire again fine, but there was some 
> sealant weeping in the process. *With the wheel being completely off the 
> ground, I think a well-designed tubeless rim should NOT unseat the bead of 
> a tire simply due to losing air.* Especially with a high quality tubeless 
> tire with a durable casing. My 3 (THREE ;) cents. 
>
> First train ride:
>
> [image: IMG_3477.jpg]
>
> On Sunday, May 26, 2024 at 10:08:00 AM UTC-7 Armand Kizirian wrote:
>
>> @Eric - I'm mixed on the pretzel pedals. I chose them over the 
>> Monarchs/Gamma because of the additional, wider support, and the sculptural 
>> design matched the them I was going for. I'm afraid the aesthetics do not 
>> match the function very well. The function of the pedal is heavily reliant 
>> upon the pins. Remove the pins and you have a pretty terrible pedal, in 
>> terms of have a flat, consistent surface on which to evenly distribute 
>> weight, with some form of traction. The pins they come with are quite tall 
>> and aggressive, the type that will mark and damage your shoe sole overtime. 
>> They are quite effective, but, at least in my eyes, these are meant to be 
>> beautiful pedals for pleasure riding, not downhill mtb'ing. I modified them 
>> by putting in a mix of 1-2mm shorter brass m4 set screws. I like how they 
>> are now, but wouldn't purchase them again. I'll probably end up with some 
>> generic Shimano one-side platform/other side SPD pedal, as some of the dirt 
>> trails I like to go on tangent to my city are incredibly steep. 
>>
>> Right now I'm experimenting with some Rene Herse knobbies. They roll 
>> exceptionally well, are indeed quiet, but however, they have introduced a 
>> consistent buzz that is transmitted to the pedals--feedback which I'm not 
>> crazy about. Audibly they are indeed quiet. I'm VERY impressed by the 
>> durability of the endurance casing, I trashed these tires descending over 
>> 6000ft on some of the chunkiest rocks/terrain in southern california and 
>> not a hiccup. I did identify one of the knobs being slashed in half and 
>> flapping about, no risk of a puncture though. I'll probably switch back to 
>> RH slicks, or try a slick in the rear and knobby up front. 
>>
>> *As much as I do love the Platy so far, I think I would desire the 
>> additional tire clearance that an Appaloosa offers.* *If anyone has a 
>> 54-57cm lime-olive Appaloosa frame/fork, I would consider a purchase or 
>> trade. * Plus the additional convenience of a diamond

Re: [RBW] Re: My new Wired Magazine article about fat, supple tires

[Dan]

Patrick,

I run 35psi on my 43mm GK SKs for all conditions. 
35psi for road and 30psi for unpaved on my 43mm GK SS+. 

I have 55mm Ultradynamico Mars Robustos on my Appaloosa, and it’s a new 
world for me. So far I’ve tried 30psi (too firm) and 25psi, which feels 
very nice on and off road. I wonder how low I could or should go?

On Monday 3 June 2024 at 01:49:45 UTC+9:30 Patrick Moore wrote:

> IME, even very supple skinny tires can be surprisingly smooth if not 
> pumped too hard; I recall being surprised almost 35 years ago at how smooth 
> 23 mm Specialized 26X1" Turbos felt compared to overinflated 35 mm Fatboys 
> (I thought then that the label max pres was the correct pressure). Much 
> later, Michelin Pro Races at 22 mm actual on narrow rims felt surprisingly 
> comfortable at 80 f/90r, and today's 28 mm (actual, skinny rims) Elk Passes 
> feel almost pillow-like at 55/60 except over the damned 8" to 12" expansion 
> bumps on my access road that I keep meaning to complain to the city about.
>
> Speaking of which: I'm curious about others' preferences for air pressure: 
> what pressure for what tire -- width, type of casing -- on what surfaces. I 
> recently started riding my ~49 mm (27 mm IW rims) regular casing Oracle 
> Ridges at 17 psi, down from the 20 that felt harsh over horse hoof chop and 
> stutter bumps, and yes, 17 feels smoother over small bumps while not 
> compromising the road-tire-like handling (on the Matt #1) on pavement -- 
> the ORs handle like the slick Soma Supple Vitesse SLs on pavement, and both 
> tires make the bike handle as I'd asked Chauncey to make it handle, much 
> like my Riv Roads.
>
> Current preferred pressures for max bump comfort with pavement cornering 
> precision:
>
> ORs ~49 mm actual, combined pavement and (sandy) dirt: 17 psi.
>
> Extralight 559X42 mm Naches Passes, mostly pavement, brief firmer dirt: 
> 30/35. I expect I could use as low as 25/30 but this bike sees 30-40 lb 
> rear loads.
>
> 175 gram 559X28 mm Elk Passes: pavement: 55/60, and were it not for 
> expansion cracks I guess I could drop 5 psi from each.
>
> I used to put 20 psi in the 61 mm paper-thin sidewall Big Ones but now I'd 
> drop that to under 17; cornering on pavement be damned, they never did 
> corner crisply, and I expect that at 15-16 with 27 mm IW rims the sidewalls 
> would remain stable.
>
> I rode the 72 mm actual WTB Rangers as low as 12-13; since these were 
> ridden almost always on sandy soil, and I'd have used that as the norm 
> except that these were tubeless tires on ~20-21 mm IW non-tubeless rims, so 
> I usually kept them at 15.
>
> Patrick Moore, who wishes that the Elk Passes measured closer to the 
> labeled 32 mm on the admittedly 13 mm IW rims.
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 2, 2024 at 9:58 AM Jay  wrote:
>
>> I know a lot of roadies, who don't mountain bike, who have never tried a 
>> tire about 30-32mm.  Before these nice, supple tires became more readily 
>> available I had mountain biked and had tires for riding that bike on the 
>> roads (off-season), and then I got into cx bikes I had 32mm (ish) tires, 
>> and they were all awful (and over-inflated!).  When I went up to 40mm that 
>> was an improvement.  A supple tire of anywhere north of 32-35, on a bike 
>> that is not overly stiff, pumped to the right pressure, tubeless if you 
>> like, is magic.
>>
>> Nice article!
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: NBD - Purple Appaloosa

[Dan]

Thank you all again for your kind words. Reading your comments makes me 
want to go adventure on the bike even more - which is saying something!

@Kim, @Roberta - long rides, brighter smiles and comfortable adventures - I 
like that. Yes please.

@Chintanjadwani - I was skeptical on the purple too and I have no idea why. 
It's so good.

@Valerie - I've just come back from a ~25km loop of the dirt trails in our 
local parklands. The tyres handled the terrain with aplomb. They were 
confidence inspiring and supple enough at 25psi. I like that the Robusto 
casing is of a decent weight, which gives me confidence that they won't let 
me down in my explorations. Having said that, I'm also curious as to 
whether there would be any ride quality or durability differences of the 
JFF casing.

The quick rack is fantastic. Yes, it straps to the seat tube and clicks on 
with levers to little knobs you leave on the lower eyelets. Though it takes 
only  ~10-15s to put on or take off, it's very sturdy and is rated to 20kg. 
I only put it on when I want to use it. I've found the Appaloosa takes to 
loaded rear panniers very very well - I don't even notice they are there!

I can't disagree about how the Straggler feels too ha. I think that's also 
its strength. It feels indestructible. Having said that, I do dream of a 
more spritely drop-bar bike that fits ~40mm tyres, fenders, and doesn't 
need a stack of spacers to get the bars right. One day...

On Wednesday 19 June 2024 at 23:48:36 UTC+9:30 Valerie Yates wrote:

> I like drop bars, just not the Straggler.  It was pretty and took 650b 
> wheels but felt heavy and dull to me. Mine was small (51?). Might be better 
> in larger sizes. Mine felt stiff and stout and had no glide.  
>
> Your bike looks better and better. Curious to learn your opinion of those 
> tires. They look very capable. How do they ride?  I have Schwalbe Marathon 
> Supremes on mine. Feels very Cadillac. Curious too about the quick rack. I 
> like to have the rack mounted to the eyelets. Not sure the benefit of 
> mounting to the seat post. Is that the quick part? 
>
>
> On Wednesday, June 19, 2024 at 5:10:49 AM UTC-6 Dan wrote:
>
>> Valerie, it's comforting to hear that others have made the same journey 
>> as me.
>> My Straggler has found its place in my stable as the drop-bar and 
>> fendered bike. I like having the option to ride drops! To further 
>> differentiate it from the Appaloosa, though, I've removed the rear rack and 
>> added a front low-rider rack, shaving about 1kg of weight in the process.
>>
>> I'll share more photos as it reaches its final form. I'm still waiting on 
>> the dynamo light install, and I've swapped out the light and fast (but 
>> fragile) Panaracer Driver Pro tyres for Ultradynamico Mars Robustos. Oh, 
>> and I bought an Ortlieb Quick Rack rear rack to use on the bike, which fits 
>> PERFECTLY, is sturdy, and really is as easy to put on / remove as they 
>> claim.
>>
>> With the new tyres:
>> [image: IMG_2049.jpeg]
>>
>> The Quick Rack:
>> [image: IMG_1649.jpeg]
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Mosquito infested NH White Mtns day tour

[Dan]

When it has said that to me I've found it means the images are too big. 
I've had luck resizing them to no more than 5MB total per post. Hope this 
helps - I'd like to see your photos!

On Sunday 23 June 2024 at 11:33:07 UTC+9:30 Yankeebird wrote:

> Wow it hates me
> I'll try again tomorrow
> If anyone has any tips as to how many I can embed into the text using 
> Google's resizer to "best fit" pls let me know
>
> On Saturday, June 22, 2024 at 9:54:35 PM UTC-4 Yankeebird wrote:
>
>> Ya'll have to imagine it
>>
>> On Saturday, June 22, 2024 at 9:51:07 PM UTC-4 Yankeebird wrote:
>>
>>> Probably one of my top 3 worst mosquito experiences in New England and 
>>> we forgot the dope. 
>>>
>>> Nice and cool though, mid 60s while everyone south of NH was sweltering. 
>>> Light rain.
>>>
>>> I rode my Clem L and my bike buddy rode his Peugot Orient Express that 
>>> he found on the side of the road for free. He put some Gravel Kings, a B17, 
>>> and new grips on the bars and that was that. Everything else, including 
>>> drivetrain is original.
>>>
>>>  [image: image.png]
>>>
>>> I want to post more pictures but it keeps telling me the post is too 
>>> long. Length? Word Count? MB? I cut it down to 3 picture and still no dice.
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: NBD - Purple Appaloosa

[Dan]

Hi bbrazelton,

Thank you for sharing your story and build! Wow, it's uncanny how similar 
your build is to mine, from the bars, front and rear racks, kickstand, rims 
and even tyres (though I see you have the race version)! My Edelux light 
goes on later this week ;)

I had the same dilemma with the rear rack but ultimately decided that it 
doesn't really matter what the rack looks like when there are bags on, and 
when I'm not planning to use bags then there will be no rack!

What stem are you using with the Ortho bars?

On Monday 24 June 2024 at 15:52:54 UTC+9:30 bbraz...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello!
> This thread has inspired me to make my first post to this group. I enjoyed 
> reading your bike history, Dan, as I have a similar evolution from Surly to 
> Rivendell. I'm a first-time Riv owner and still grinning - I also have a 
> brand new purple Appaloosa! I was also skeptical of the purple and 
> initially wanted the green color, but I have to admit that the purple looks 
> really good in person. I also have the Uncle Ron's Ortho bars and love 
> them. And I deliberated for a long time about getting the Ortlieb Quick 
> Rack or a rear rack that better fits the Riv style. Ultimately I decided 
> for the Quick Rack, and I think it was the right choice because I love 
> being able to take it off and put it back on again so quickly. Sometimes I 
> switch it out multiple times in the same day, depending on what I'm doing. 
> I typically use the rack, together with the mud guard and mud flap, when 
> I'm pulling a trailer in order to protect the passengers and cargo from 
> spraying mud. 
>
> The bike was built up by Christoph at Just La Vie Cyclery in Augsburg, 
> Germany, and he did a fantastic job. I highly recommend him for anyone in 
> Europe.
>
> Other details:
>
>- Frame is 60cm. My PBH is 92, and standover is only a problem when I 
>have something very tall loaded on top of the rear rack. While riding, the 
>size feels perfect, especially with the sweeping Ortho Bars. 
>- SON28 hub dynamo and Edelux II. The vibration from the dynamo is 
>surprisingly noticeable, even at lower speeds. After much reading and 
>consulting with Christoph, it seems that this is normal and due to the 
>extra strong magnets. 
>- Rear hub is White Industries MI5
>- Silver cranks and Silver thumbie shifters
>- Shimano XTR Rapid Rise derailer rescued by Christoph from ebay 
>- Deore XT front derailes
>- Paul Motolites and Love levers
>- Velocity Cliffhanger rims
>- Ultradynamico Mars - a little loud on pavement but velvety smooth 
>and grippy on everything else
>- Mark's M1 front rack looks great and also supports the absolutely 
>gigantic front bag that Bags by Bird made for me
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: NBD - Purple Appaloosa

[Dan]

Just came back to say I finally have my dynamo lights installed (Edelux II 
front, B+M micro rear).
I also notice vibrations, but for me it's at higher speeds. It's not 
bothering me so far - it's just a thing that happens. I love how much 
useable light the front light puts out though, and the rear is surprisingly 
visible for its size.
Oh, and mounting the shifters upside down has significantly increased the 
versatility of the bars. I can now rest my hands right up the grips near 
the lever clamp, which puts my weight just that little bit more forward 
when I want to and settles the handling nicely. I'm going to try out some 
ESI chunkys as a next change. It's fun to keep tweaking and dialing in the 
ride!

On Monday 24 June 2024 at 15:52:54 UTC+9:30 bbraz...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello!
> This thread has inspired me to make my first post to this group. I enjoyed 
> reading your bike history, Dan, as I have a similar evolution from Surly to 
> Rivendell. I'm a first-time Riv owner and still grinning - I also have a 
> brand new purple Appaloosa! I was also skeptical of the purple and 
> initially wanted the green color, but I have to admit that the purple looks 
> really good in person. I also have the Uncle Ron's Ortho bars and love 
> them. And I deliberated for a long time about getting the Ortlieb Quick 
> Rack or a rear rack that better fits the Riv style. Ultimately I decided 
> for the Quick Rack, and I think it was the right choice because I love 
> being able to take it off and put it back on again so quickly. Sometimes I 
> switch it out multiple times in the same day, depending on what I'm doing. 
> I typically use the rack, together with the mud guard and mud flap, when 
> I'm pulling a trailer in order to protect the passengers and cargo from 
> spraying mud. 
>
> The bike was built up by Christoph at Just La Vie Cyclery in Augsburg, 
> Germany, and he did a fantastic job. I highly recommend him for anyone in 
> Europe.
>
> Other details:
>
>- Frame is 60cm. My PBH is 92, and standover is only a problem when I 
>have something very tall loaded on top of the rear rack. While riding, the 
>size feels perfect, especially with the sweeping Ortho Bars. 
>- SON28 hub dynamo and Edelux II. The vibration from the dynamo is 
>surprisingly noticeable, even at lower speeds. After much reading and 
>consulting with Christoph, it seems that this is normal and due to the 
>extra strong magnets. 
>- Rear hub is White Industries MI5
>- Silver cranks and Silver thumbie shifters
>- Shimano XTR Rapid Rise derailer rescued by Christoph from ebay 
>- Deore XT front derailes
>- Paul Motolites and Love levers
>- Velocity Cliffhanger rims
>- Ultradynamico Mars - a little loud on pavement but velvety smooth 
>and grippy on everything else
>- Mark's M1 front rack looks great and also supports the absolutely 
>gigantic front bag that Bags by Bird made for me
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa sizing advice

[Dan]

Chiming in: with my 89-89.5ish PBH, the 57cm Appaloosa fits me very well. 
Standover is not a problem except when I mess things up very badly on 
single track. 
I’d think a 57 would be very nice for you!

On Wednesday 31 July 2024 at 03:20:24 UTC+9:30 Dan wrote:

> Hey All! I am getting ready to get an appaloosa when Rivendell restocks 
> them and I am trying to figure out the proper size. I measured my PBH 10 
> times. The average came to 91 exactly, top end was 91.8 and lowest was 89.5 
> (which was likely an error anyway). Overall most measurements measure 
> between 90.5 and 91.5. I am just shy of 6 foot tall. Based on the geometry 
> chart, I am on the low end of a 60cm frame. I already have a 60cm frame 
> bike but it is an 88 Shcwinn Le Tour and it can be quite uncomfortable. I 
> know the Appaloosa would be significantly different but this will be a 
> major financial investment for me and I want to make sure I am making the 
> correct choice. Would anyone be able to share their opinions on what I may 
> want to go with?
> Thanks
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB wide handlebars with slight rise and a bit of sweep

[Dan]

How about Soma Dream Risers? They’re a nice polished silver, albeit in 
31.8mm clamp size. 

On Sunday 4 August 2024 at 04:04:16 UTC+9:30 iwdbu...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello folks,
>
> I have Simworks Little Nick Bars on my Appaloosa, and I've tried Nitto 
> Albatross bars as well. I'm looking for something in between those 
> extremes. The CRUMBWORKS x Nitto KT bars look perfect, but I'm open to 
> similar bars in silver.
>
> Ian
> Victoria, BC

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Re: [RBW] Re: 2024 Appaloosa Thread

[Dan]

Some great sleuthing and info here!
I’ll add in another one that I’m pretty sure I’m not imagining: the chain 
stays look a tad shorter. 

On Saturday 10 August 2024 at 22:21:06 UTC+9:30 Dorothy C wrote:

> I noticed they got down tube shifter bosses with the upcoming ones. Kind 
> of surprising on a sturdy bike. 
> Here is a picture of my 2016 model sky blue 46cm, a 26” wheel bike, my 
> first Riv bike purchase.
>
>
>
>
> On Saturday, August 10, 2024 at 4:16:17 AM UTC-7 drew.jo...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Despite everyone providing fantastic advice regarding my Sam rebuild.  I 
>> must admit, I am still incredibly interested in replacing the Sam with a 
>> green Joe.
>>
>> Regarding tire clearance specifically…Grant told me this run of Joes 
>> would now match current Atlantis tire clearances.
>>
>> R,
>>
>> Drew
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 10, 2024, at 6:27 AM, iamkeith  wrote:
>>
>> Watching thread, and curious about the same thing - especially since 
>> they felt it necessary to get new prototypes. 
>>
>>
>> The geometry chart still shows it having a slightly steeper headtube and 
>> shorter top tube than the equivalent Atlantis, which suprises me every time 
>> I've ever looked for this info.  (You kind of have to extrapolate, because 
>> the respective sizes alternate.)  Will's email said they will be updating 
>> the website eventually/soon.
>>
>> I've asked this before, but can anyone describe how the various versions 
>> have evolved over time?  I know the fork legs got stiffer after the first 
>> batch, and the double top tube was dropped from the larger sizes, but I'm 
>> particularly interested in geometry and tire clearance improvements. 
>>
>> I have more bikes than I need - especially Rivendells - but still always 
>> daydream about that n+1.  The Appaloosa is the model that has the least 
>> overlap to the bikes I already have and -  unlike any Atlantis ever - comes 
>> in a size that would fit me.  If it got longer and slacker, it would be 
>> even better.  
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/7a1b2256-1033-401c-9b9f-a7923ba9n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 2024 Appaloosa Thread

[Dan]

Not derailing at all! Well done on resisting temptation. I agree with you 
that the Hog's Back meets a very similar use case to the Joe: an all-round, 
all-road tourer that can do anything and go anywhere, if slowly. I was 
eyeing off a Hog's Back before I picked up the Joe! Would you mind sharing 
photos of your bike - I'd love to see it!

On Sunday 11 August 2024 at 04:27:12 UTC+9:30 trevor@gmail.com wrote:

> I was vey tempted to get a green one but having thought extensively 
> about it, I think I will keep my Bassi Hog's Back and ride that. Aside from 
> the very long rear end, the reach is pretty similar and its been hard for 
> me to justify selling a whole bike for less than the cost of a frame, 
> especially when I have been quite happy with my Bassi. I don't mean to 
> derail this conversation at all, but I'm happy with myself for resisting 
> such a big temptation. One day Rivendell will take my money, just not this 
> round.
>
> On Saturday, August 10, 2024 at 7:24:58 AM UTC-6 Dan wrote:
>
> Some great sleuthing and info here!
> I’ll add in another one that I’m pretty sure I’m not imagining: the chain 
> stays look a tad shorter. 
>
> On Saturday 10 August 2024 at 22:21:06 UTC+9:30 Dorothy C wrote:
>
> I noticed they got down tube shifter bosses with the upcoming ones. Kind 
> of surprising on a sturdy bike. 
> Here is a picture of my 2016 model sky blue 46cm, a 26” wheel bike, my 
> first Riv bike purchase.
>
>
>
>
> On Saturday, August 10, 2024 at 4:16:17 AM UTC-7 drew.jo...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
> Despite everyone providing fantastic advice regarding my Sam rebuild.  I 
> must admit, I am still incredibly interested in replacing the Sam with a 
> green Joe.
>
> Regarding tire clearance specifically…Grant told me this run of Joes would 
> now match current Atlantis tire clearances.
>
> R,
>
> Drew
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 10, 2024, at 6:27 AM, iamkeith  wrote:
>
> Watching thread, and curious about the same thing - especially since they 
> felt it necessary to get new prototypes. 
>
>
> The geometry chart still shows it having a slightly steeper headtube and 
> shorter top tube than the equivalent Atlantis, which suprises me every time 
> I've ever looked for this info.  (You kind of have to extrapolate, because 
> the respective sizes alternate.)  Will's email said they will be updating 
> the website eventually/soon.
>
> I've asked this before, but can anyone describe how the various versions 
> have evolved over time?  I know the fork legs got stiffer after the first 
> batch, and the double top tube was dropped from the larger sizes, but I'm 
> particularly interested in geometry and tire clearance improvements. 
>
> I have more bikes than I need - especially Rivendells - but still always 
> daydream about that n+1.  The Appaloosa is the model that has the least 
> overlap to the bikes I already have and -  unlike any Atlantis ever - comes 
> in a size that would fit me.  If it got longer and slacker, it would be 
> even better.  
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/7a1b2256-1033-401c-9b9f-a7923ba9n%40googlegroups.com
>  
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/7a1b2256-1033-401c-9b9f-a7923ba9n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 2024 Appaloosa Thread

[Dan]

It's beautiful. Looks comfy and capable and just the right balance of black 
and silver!

On the topic of Appaloosas, and entering the realm of pure speculation:
With a slacker head tube angle (using the Atlantis lugs?) and wider tyre 
clearance, the Appaloosa sounds very similar indeed to the previous 
Atlantis.
I wonder if that leaves room for the next Atlantis to shift to something 
different?

On Sunday 11 August 2024 at 11:31:48 UTC+9:30 trevor@gmail.com wrote:

> [image: IMG_8546.jpg]
>
> On Saturday, August 10, 2024 at 7:52:50 PM UTC-6 Dan wrote:
>
>> Not derailing at all! Well done on resisting temptation. I agree with you 
>> that the Hog's Back meets a very similar use case to the Joe: an all-round, 
>> all-road tourer that can do anything and go anywhere, if slowly. I was 
>> eyeing off a Hog's Back before I picked up the Joe! Would you mind sharing 
>> photos of your bike - I'd love to see it!
>>
>> On Sunday 11 August 2024 at 04:27:12 UTC+9:30 trevor@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> I was vey tempted to get a green one but having thought extensively 
>>> about it, I think I will keep my Bassi Hog's Back and ride that. Aside from 
>>> the very long rear end, the reach is pretty similar and its been hard for 
>>> me to justify selling a whole bike for less than the cost of a frame, 
>>> especially when I have been quite happy with my Bassi. I don't mean to 
>>> derail this conversation at all, but I'm happy with myself for resisting 
>>> such a big temptation. One day Rivendell will take my money, just not this 
>>> round.
>>>
>>> On Saturday, August 10, 2024 at 7:24:58 AM UTC-6 Dan wrote:
>>>
>>> Some great sleuthing and info here!
>>> I’ll add in another one that I’m pretty sure I’m not imagining: the 
>>> chain stays look a tad shorter. 
>>>
>>> On Saturday 10 August 2024 at 22:21:06 UTC+9:30 Dorothy C wrote:
>>>
>>> I noticed they got down tube shifter bosses with the upcoming ones. Kind 
>>> of surprising on a sturdy bike. 
>>> Here is a picture of my 2016 model sky blue 46cm, a 26” wheel bike, my 
>>> first Riv bike purchase.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Saturday, August 10, 2024 at 4:16:17 AM UTC-7 drew.jo...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Despite everyone providing fantastic advice regarding my Sam rebuild.  I 
>>> must admit, I am still incredibly interested in replacing the Sam with a 
>>> green Joe.
>>>
>>> Regarding tire clearance specifically…Grant told me this run of Joes 
>>> would now match current Atlantis tire clearances.
>>>
>>> R,
>>>
>>> Drew
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Aug 10, 2024, at 6:27 AM, iamkeith  wrote:
>>>
>>> Watching thread, and curious about the same thing - especially since 
>>> they felt it necessary to get new prototypes. 
>>>
>>>
>>> The geometry chart still shows it having a slightly steeper headtube and 
>>> shorter top tube than the equivalent Atlantis, which suprises me every time 
>>> I've ever looked for this info.  (You kind of have to extrapolate, because 
>>> the respective sizes alternate.)  Will's email said they will be updating 
>>> the website eventually/soon.
>>>
>>> I've asked this before, but can anyone describe how the various versions 
>>> have evolved over time?  I know the fork legs got stiffer after the first 
>>> batch, and the double top tube was dropped from the larger sizes, but I'm 
>>> particularly interested in geometry and tire clearance improvements. 
>>>
>>> I have more bikes than I need - especially Rivendells - but still always 
>>> daydream about that n+1.  The Appaloosa is the model that has the least 
>>> overlap to the bikes I already have and -  unlike any Atlantis ever - comes 
>>> in a size that would fit me.  If it got longer and slacker, it would be 
>>> even better.  
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/7a1b2256-1033-401c-9b9f-a7923ba9n%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/7a1b2256-1033-401c-9b9f-a7923ba9n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa sizing advice

[Dan]

Just wanted to share an update! I gave them a call today and spoke with 
Vince. He was really helpful and was confident I’d be happiest with a 57. 
Although my PBH is an in between for the Appaloosa, with larger tires, the 
57 would be a more manageable ride.
On Thursday, August 8, 2024 at 6:18:50 PM UTC-4 gre...@gmail.com wrote:

> I don't know that I would recommend the 60 for you. I'm 6'2 PBH 90. I ride 
> the 60 cm Appaloosa and it's a nice big bike for what I like. It has a very 
> long top tube. So although you might be able to stand over it it might 
> stretch you out a bit. I think a 57 would be a good option.
>
> On Tuesday, July 30, 2024 at 11:50:24 a.m. UTC-6 Dan wrote:
>
>> Hey All! I am getting ready to get an appaloosa when Rivendell restocks 
>> them and I am trying to figure out the proper size. I measured my PBH 10 
>> times. The average came to 91 exactly, top end was 91.8 and lowest was 89.5 
>> (which was likely an error anyway). Overall most measurements measure 
>> between 90.5 and 91.5. I am just shy of 6 foot tall. Based on the geometry 
>> chart, I am on the low end of a 60cm frame. I already have a 60cm frame 
>> bike but it is an 88 Shcwinn Le Tour and it can be quite uncomfortable. I 
>> know the Appaloosa would be significantly different but this will be a 
>> major financial investment for me and I want to make sure I am making the 
>> correct choice. Would anyone be able to share their opinions on what I may 
>> want to go with?
>> Thanks
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 2024 Appaloosa Thread

[Dan]

Does that tempt you to swap out your Platypus frame, Armand?

I ride my Appaloosa on all manner of ill-advised trails ("your bike has a 
basket and you're riding it here?!") so better trail riding sounds 
fantastic.
I'll carry on with my underbiking though, as I always have. The updates 
sound great.

On Tuesday 13 August 2024 at 09:13:20 UTC+9:30 kiziria...@gmail.com wrote:

> FYI I spoke to Grant over the phone today and the new Appaloosa's are 
> indeed slacker. They have a 70 degree head tube angle in order to increase 
> the front-center and wheelbase. Apparently better for trail riding with no 
> downside to paved riding.  
>
> On Monday, August 12, 2024 at 11:12:39 AM UTC-7 Josh C wrote:
>
>> I personally wish they’d bring back the double top tube. I like the look 
>> of the green one tho, looked killer on the Platy. 
>>
>> On Monday, August 12, 2024 at 4:43:28 AM UTC-4 Dan wrote:
>>
>>> It's beautiful. Looks comfy and capable and just the right balance of 
>>> black and silver!
>>>
>>> On the topic of Appaloosas, and entering the realm of pure speculation:
>>> With a slacker head tube angle (using the Atlantis lugs?) and wider tyre 
>>> clearance, the Appaloosa sounds very similar indeed to the previous 
>>> Atlantis.
>>> I wonder if that leaves room for the next Atlantis to shift to something 
>>> different?
>>>
>>> On Sunday 11 August 2024 at 11:31:48 UTC+9:30 trevor@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> [image: IMG_8546.jpg]
>>>>
>>>> On Saturday, August 10, 2024 at 7:52:50 PM UTC-6 Dan wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Not derailing at all! Well done on resisting temptation. I agree with 
>>>>> you that the Hog's Back meets a very similar use case to the Joe: an 
>>>>> all-round, all-road tourer that can do anything and go anywhere, if 
>>>>> slowly. 
>>>>> I was eyeing off a Hog's Back before I picked up the Joe! Would you mind 
>>>>> sharing photos of your bike - I'd love to see it!
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sunday 11 August 2024 at 04:27:12 UTC+9:30 trevor@gmail.com 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I was vey tempted to get a green one but having thought 
>>>>>> extensively about it, I think I will keep my Bassi Hog's Back and ride 
>>>>>> that. Aside from the very long rear end, the reach is pretty similar and 
>>>>>> its been hard for me to justify selling a whole bike for less than the 
>>>>>> cost 
>>>>>> of a frame, especially when I have been quite happy with my Bassi. I 
>>>>>> don't 
>>>>>> mean to derail this conversation at all, but I'm happy with myself for 
>>>>>> resisting such a big temptation. One day Rivendell will take my money, 
>>>>>> just 
>>>>>> not this round.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Saturday, August 10, 2024 at 7:24:58 AM UTC-6 Dan wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Some great sleuthing and info here!
>>>>>> I’ll add in another one that I’m pretty sure I’m not imagining: the 
>>>>>> chain stays look a tad shorter. 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Saturday 10 August 2024 at 22:21:06 UTC+9:30 Dorothy C wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I noticed they got down tube shifter bosses with the upcoming ones. 
>>>>>> Kind of surprising on a sturdy bike. 
>>>>>> Here is a picture of my 2016 model sky blue 46cm, a 26” wheel bike, 
>>>>>> my first Riv bike purchase.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Saturday, August 10, 2024 at 4:16:17 AM UTC-7 drew.jo...@gmail.com 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Despite everyone providing fantastic advice regarding my Sam rebuild. 
>>>>>>  I must admit, I am still incredibly interested in replacing the Sam 
>>>>>> with a 
>>>>>> green Joe.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Regarding tire clearance specifically…Grant told me this run of Joes 
>>>>>> would now match current Atlantis tire clearances.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> R,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Drew
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Aug 10, 2024, at 6:27 AM, i

Re: [RBW] 2024 Appaloosa Thread

[Dan]

Armand, fair enough. If you’re going to go to the trouble of changing 
frames, it’d better be for something just right!

AppaLanta: congratulations! Can’t wait to hear your impressions of the 
bike. 

On Saturday 17 August 2024 at 16:05:05 UTC+9:30 AppaLanta wrote:

> I would like to say "Hello" to the forum, as this is my first real post.  
> As of today's presale, I am the expectant owner of my first Riv - a 57 
> Appaloosa in Sergio Green.  I'm looking forward to learning more from all 
> of you, and posting a ride report of the new geometry.  Cheers!
>
> On Thursday, August 15, 2024 at 7:35:40 PM UTC-4 iamkeith wrote:
>
>> Since the pre-sale starts tomorrow, I'd imagine that anyone with 
>> intentions already knows this, but the geometry chart WAS finally updated a 
>> couple of days ago, to show the new, slacker Appaloosa numbers:
>>
>>
>> https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1403/7343/files/RBW_Bicycle_Geometries_-_August_2024.pdf?v=1723665985
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 14, 2024 at 5:59:29 PM UTC-6 kiziria...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Dan, I love the way the Platypus rides, but I've come to prefer the 
>>> function of a full front triangle. I've gotten used to having a custom half 
>>> frame bag with two bottles (+ third!) on my other bikes. I'd like to have 
>>> the same with my Riv. For some reason I don't like the ana purple on the 
>>> Appaloosa as much as I do on my Platypus though! Sergio green seems too 
>>> boring to me. Those lime-olive Appa's would be the winner for me. I 
>>> definitely don't care enough to pull the trigger on this batch, but if 
>>> someone reading this happens to want to trade a 55 Platy for a 54 Appa 
>>> shoot me a DM. 
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, August 13, 2024 at 9:49:36 AM UTC-7 ethan...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Same! When did they stop making them with double top tubes? Do you know 
>>>> if future Atlantis frames will have a double top tube? They look quite 
>>>> nice 
>>>> and sturdy, especially on the larger bikes.
>>>>
>>>> On Aug 12, 2024, at 11:12 AM, Josh C  wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I personally wish they’d bring back the double top tube. I like the 
>>>> look of the green one tho, looked killer on the Platy. 
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, August 12, 2024 at 4:43:28 AM UTC-4 Dan wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> It's beautiful. Looks comfy and capable and just the right balance of 
>>>>> black and silver!
>>>>>
>>>>> On the topic of Appaloosas, and entering the realm of pure speculation:
>>>>> With a slacker head tube angle (using the Atlantis lugs?) and wider 
>>>>> tyre clearance, the Appaloosa sounds very similar indeed to the previous 
>>>>> Atlantis.
>>>>> I wonder if that leaves room for the next Atlantis to shift to 
>>>>> something different?
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sunday 11 August 2024 at 11:31:48 UTC+9:30 trevor@gmail.com 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> [image: IMG_8546.jpg]
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Saturday, August 10, 2024 at 7:52:50 PM UTC-6 Dan wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Not derailing at all! Well done on resisting temptation. I agree 
>>>>>>> with you that the Hog's Back meets a very similar use case to the Joe: 
>>>>>>> an 
>>>>>>> all-round, all-road tourer that can do anything and go anywhere, if 
>>>>>>> slowly. 
>>>>>>> I was eyeing off a Hog's Back before I picked up the Joe! Would you 
>>>>>>> mind 
>>>>>>> sharing photos of your bike - I'd love to see it!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Sunday 11 August 2024 at 04:27:12 UTC+9:30 trevor@gmail.com 
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I was vey tempted to get a green one but having thought 
>>>>>>>> extensively about it, I think I will keep my Bassi Hog's Back and ride 
>>>>>>>> that. Aside from the very long rear end, the reach is pretty similar 
>>>>>>>> and 
>>>>>>>> its been hard for me to justify selling a whole bike for less than the 
>>>>>>>> cost 
>>>>>>>> of a frame, especially when I have been quite happy with my Bassi. I 
>>>>>>>

[RBW] Handlebar suggestion for long legs?

[Dan]

So I have ordered my Appaloosa and am trying to get my parts in order. I 
plan on making the purchase of the "you pick the fun stuff, we pick the 
rest" to go along with the Appaloosa. My biggest conundrum is the 
handlebars. I have 91.5 PBH and have concerns with kneeing my hands or the 
handlebars. Originally I was thinking the Billie bar because I like the 
option of gripping next to the stem but looking at whatbars.com, comparing 
to other riv handlebars, they seem to sweep back a bit more than others. I 
have never used swept back bars before and have no option to view these 
bars in person so here I am yet again looking for some insights! Basically, 
I'd like a bar that comes back to a comfortable position without me having 
to lean too far forward and allows me to get a tight grip when I want to. 
Just dont want to get a setup that causes me to get too close to the 
handlebars is all. I plan on going with thumb shifters if that helps to 
know.

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar suggestion for long legs?

[Dan]

Billies apparently work very well with a long stem (130mm+). I have the 
Ortho bars and a 120mm stem on my Appaloosa because I wanted something 
wider. I could even go a longer stem though! If you're sticking with Riv, 
maybe the 65cm Tosco bars and take their recommendation on stem length?

On Tuesday 20 August 2024 at 06:33:32 UTC+9:30 Dan wrote:

> So I have ordered my Appaloosa and am trying to get my parts in order. I 
> plan on making the purchase of the "you pick the fun stuff, we pick the 
> rest" to go along with the Appaloosa. My biggest conundrum is the 
> handlebars. I have 91.5 PBH and have concerns with kneeing my hands or the 
> handlebars. Originally I was thinking the Billie bar because I like the 
> option of gripping next to the stem but looking at whatbars.com, 
> comparing to other riv handlebars, they seem to sweep back a bit more than 
> others. I have never used swept back bars before and have no option to view 
> these bars in person so here I am yet again looking for some insights! 
> Basically, I'd like a bar that comes back to a comfortable position without 
> me having to lean too far forward and allows me to get a tight grip when I 
> want to. Just dont want to get a setup that causes me to get too close to 
> the handlebars is all. I plan on going with thumb shifters if that helps to 
> know.
>

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar suggestion for long legs?

[Dan]

Thanks for all of your replies! Tom, yes I failed to mention it but I will 
be primarily be riding paved surfaces with a dash of crushed gravel where I 
can find it. I'm in Philadelphia so most of the local trail systems are 
either paved or in the process of maybe one day being paved. Nothing 
technical but I'll be trying to get on the dirt when possible. 
Realistically 90/10 road and gravel with the hopes for more gravel if I can 
find it. That Ahearne Map is nice looking. If I had the ability to get that 
in with my build, I would. I'll keep that one in mind though in case 
whatever I get from Riv is too tight for me.

On Tuesday, August 20, 2024 at 6:18:08 AM UTC-4 Tom wrote:

> Dan, what type of riding will you do predominately?  
>
> An Albatross doesn't come back as far as a Bosco, has a wider angle, and 
> when you want to stomp on it you can put your hands up in the 'hooks' and 
> its comfortable.  Great for general more roadish riding.
>
> Another one to look at is the Ahearne+Map 
> <https://www.ahearnecycles.com/shop/ahearnemap-handlebar>, an awesome 
> bar, doesn't come back too far, can get in 575 or 610 widths, silver or 
> black.  Perfect angles, great for anything, and more substantial/suitable 
> than Albatross if you're going on gravel or light singletrack occasionally, 
> but primarily roads/packed/paved riding.  Similar to this is the Jitensha, 
> which has a wider flare that the Ahearne+Map, which might work better if 
> you like narrower bars, need more reach, and need to clear paths with tight 
> trees (or cars, etc) on either side.
>
> I agree with others that the Jones H bar is a super bar, esp if you're 
> going onto rougher stuff or loose gravel a lot.  Certainly wider than any 
> of the above.  I've personally not preferred the look of it on lighter 
> bikes, but that's me.  I had it on my first 59 Clem, which was suitably 
> beefy with knobbies ... it was a super gravel setup.
>
> Here's a pic I did 5 or so yrs ago comparing an Albastache, Ahearne+Map, 
> Jitensha, and Bosco 55.
> [image: Albastache_AhearneMap_Jitensha_Bosco55.jpg]
>
> Tom
> On Monday, August 19, 2024 at 5:03:32 PM UTC-4 Dan wrote:
>
>> So I have ordered my Appaloosa and am trying to get my parts in order. I 
>> plan on making the purchase of the "you pick the fun stuff, we pick the 
>> rest" to go along with the Appaloosa. My biggest conundrum is the 
>> handlebars. I have 91.5 PBH and have concerns with kneeing my hands or the 
>> handlebars. Originally I was thinking the Billie bar because I like the 
>> option of gripping next to the stem but looking at whatbars.com, 
>> comparing to other riv handlebars, they seem to sweep back a bit more than 
>> others. I have never used swept back bars before and have no option to view 
>> these bars in person so here I am yet again looking for some insights! 
>> Basically, I'd like a bar that comes back to a comfortable position without 
>> me having to lean too far forward and allows me to get a tight grip when I 
>> want to. Just dont want to get a setup that causes me to get too close to 
>> the handlebars is all. I plan on going with thumb shifters if that helps to 
>> know.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Ro-Deux-No build notes New Bike Day

[Dan]

Mark,

Have you checked that the seatpost binder bolt is greased?
On my new Appaloosa, it wasn’t. I was having slipping issues until one day 
I tried to tighten it too hard and the bolt snapped. 
A new bolt, well-greased, and I never had a problem again. Didn’t need to 
tighten much either! All this with the stock kalloy seatpost. 
On Monday 2 September 2024 at 11:04:42 UTC+9:30 mvie...@gmail.com wrote:

> hi Bill
> I see you're using a NITTO S83 seatpost. 
> Any issues with the post slipping? Or do you 'feel' you're cranking on the 
> seat binder bolt much more than the Rivendell recommended 10N-m ? 
>
> I'm asking as my stock-build Kalloy post slips. I don't know the amount of 
> torque I'm applying to the seat binder bolt, but I'm certain I'm apply much 
> more than the 10N-m. I've added a bit of carbon paste to to the seattube. 
> Still slipped a bit. 
> I've gone a head and ordered a NITTO S65. In the past I've had something 
> very similar to the stock-build (single clamp) Kalloy before and I'm not a 
> fan of of how the seat-rail clamp mates up with the top of the post. 
>
> I need to post some updates to my thread. I did an 80 miler to Detroit 
> yesterday, and a shorter dirt road ride today. 
> Thanks. 
> Mark
> On Sunday, September 1, 2024 at 3:15:57 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> I had a few self-imposed procedural responsibilities in my stable that 
>> delayed my first ride on my 7of9with10on5 RoadUno.  I had planned on doing 
>> my September Diablo Summit, but stayed up a little late last night and 
>> slept in a little long this morning.  So instead I did my very standard 
>> Grizzly Peak route.  Executive summary: 23 miles, 2500 feet of climbing, 
>> splendid bike.  Zero tweaks needed or planned.  Perfect weather.  
>>
>> tl/dr
>>
>> Even though the bike has my 7of9with10on5 drivetrain, I decided to use it 
>> as its core design intended, as a two-speed.  I left the chain on the 18 
>> cog in back and didn't touch my seat tube mounted Rear shifter.  On the 23 
>> mile ride I shifted exactly twice.  I started in "low" (26x18) and road out 
>> to the of Grizzly Peak.  One roadie passed me on the climb.  He was 
>> probably 30 pounds lighter than me and he was on a ~$10k Parlee.  He passed 
>> me, but he had to work to do it.  At the top of Grizzly I stopped to take a 
>> photo:
>>
>>
>> https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/53964112524/in/album-72177720319657823
>>
>> I left it in "low" as I coasted down the steep descent to Fish Ranch Road 
>> (max speed 32.2mph). Then I finished the second climb to the end of Grizzly 
>> Peak.  When I turned right onto Skyline/Old Tunnel, I shifted into "high" 
>> (38x18) and descended into Berkeley.  I stopped at Domingo Peet's and 
>> waited in the long line at Fournee Bakery.  There were lots of students out 
>> along the high-side of the UC Berkeley campus.  I think it's rush weekend 
>> for the greek organizations.  I continued to North Berkeley and shifted 
>> back into "low" to climb up Arlington Ave to home.  
>>
>> The bike was a delight.  It's definitely an upright road bike, and it's 
>> exceedingly easy to ride.  I rode gloveless and the texture of my Vans 
>> grips and the roughness of shellacked Newbaums on the forward curves of the 
>> stock Choco bars make me think I'll probably run thin gloves In the future. 
>>  My 700x35 Gravel Kings were kind of skinny for the lousy pavement on the 
>> Old Tunnel Road descent.  Maybe I'll swap on the 700x43s that are on the 
>> stock wheels, or maybe I'll just swap over to the stock wheels wholesale.  
>>
>> There are some loud complainers lamenting what the RoadUno became, 
>> because I think they wanted something more like a single speed Hunqapillar. 
>>  My enthusiasm for this bike was based on the idea that there's never been 
>> a bike quite like this, and I was eager to just let it be what it is and 
>> enjoy it for that.  I'm definitely all-in on that idea now.  With its long 
>> wheelbase and comparatively slack head angle it is indeed very smooth and 
>> stable as a road bike.  With a nice long front center, there's not even a 
>> threat of TCO.  I think this is going to make a really good S24O and 
>> touring bike.  
>>
>> Also of note, it was new shoes day.  I haven't been riding flats much, 
>> and so I don't have a proper set of Adidas Sambas or the equivalent.  My 
>> wife didn't like the colors that Zappos had for Sambas, so we substituted 
>> Puma Palermos.  I liked them very much for the first ride out.  Pics prove 
>> that:
>>
>>
>> https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/53964034033/in/album-72177720316423417
>>
>> I'm super pleased with my new build and look forward to establishing its 
>> place in my stable.
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 5:31:59 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> An old derailleur has a lot of things going for it.  Just note that the 
>>> drive side chainstay is totally unprotected.  That's why I wrapped it in 
>>> Newbau

[RBW] Re: Slipping on swept back handlebars

[Dan]

Swept back bars with a 26.0 clamp diameter? Must be the Crust Ron’s Ortho 
Bars!

I had slipping issues with mine initially until I just really tightened 
down on the stem. I’m running an old Velo Orange Crand Cru steel stem. 
Looks great, but I could indeed go with more reach if I could ever find a 
stem that had it. 
On Wednesday 11 September 2024 at 04:15:45 UTC+9:30 ethan...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> I just put some swept back handlebars on my bicycle and I am having 
> trouble with slipping. The handlebars sweep back 7 inches or so with a 26mm 
> clamp diameter. My stem is a nitto tallux and I'm switching in an old 130mm 
> Ritchey stem for more reach, but I'm still worried about the bar slipping. 
> Is there a good solution for gripping big bars that increase torque at the 
> stem clamp, especially when riding on gravel/off-road? 
>
> I might be able to tighten it more, but I'm worried that going tighter 
> will strip or deform the bolt. Do folks ever use thread-locker or some 
> adhesive for extra stick? Or do I need a 2-4 bolt faceplate stem for the 
> extra gripping strength?
>
> Let me know if you have any tips/tricks/ideas! Thanks,
>
> Ethan
>

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[RBW] Re: Slipping on swept back handlebars

[Dan]

To add: I ride single track semi regularly and no issues since tightening. 

On Wednesday 11 September 2024 at 20:49:55 UTC+9:30 Dan wrote:

>
> Swept back bars with a 26.0 clamp diameter? Must be the Crust Ron’s Ortho 
> Bars!
>
> I had slipping issues with mine initially until I just really tightened 
> down on the stem. I’m running an old Velo Orange Crand Cru steel stem. 
> Looks great, but I could indeed go with more reach if I could ever find a 
> stem that had it. 
> On Wednesday 11 September 2024 at 04:15:45 UTC+9:30 ethan...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I just put some swept back handlebars on my bicycle and I am having 
>> trouble with slipping. The handlebars sweep back 7 inches or so with a 26mm 
>> clamp diameter. My stem is a nitto tallux and I'm switching in an old 130mm 
>> Ritchey stem for more reach, but I'm still worried about the bar slipping. 
>> Is there a good solution for gripping big bars that increase torque at the 
>> stem clamp, especially when riding on gravel/off-road? 
>>
>> I might be able to tighten it more, but I'm worried that going tighter 
>> will strip or deform the bolt. Do folks ever use thread-locker or some 
>> adhesive for extra stick? Or do I need a 2-4 bolt faceplate stem for the 
>> extra gripping strength?
>>
>> Let me know if you have any tips/tricks/ideas! Thanks,
>>
>> Ethan
>>
>

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[RBW] WTB/T: 61cm RB-T for 1st-gen 60cm Sam (Frame/fork)

[Dan]

Hi All -- I'm looking for a 1st-gen Sam in the 60cm size, with cantis
and the 62cm-effective top tube.  Best option, which I know is a
reach, would be a trade of my '91 RB-T frame/fork and some cash.

I have a 61cm (called 62 by  Bstone) RB-T with a Bilenky low-trail
fork that was powdercoated light blue last year.  While I have really
liked this bike I think the Sam would be better for me as I weigh 220#
and the light tubing on the RB-T, while riding wonderfully, tends to
shimmy over 20 mph and gets worse when I load it up for commuting.
Also, I want to add an electric-assist front hub this year and I think
the stiffer frame would be important.

I'm looking for a 1st-gen Sam because I have short legs and a long
torso and the 1st Sams seemed to be custom-dimensioned for me (the RB-
T is also very good in this regard).  Financial constraints kept me
from grabbing one while they still existed, hence my search today.

if you read this far, thanks, and email me off-list if you want to
talk.  thanks, Dan, near Madison, WI

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[RBW] Re: What is that thing to the right of the fork crown?

[Dan]

he calls it a "small lug", so the obvious conclusion is that it's for
a TIG'd mountain bike (that's what the wide crown is for).

I know this is heresy, but I hope I'm right.

On Apr 14, 7:34 am, doc  wrote:
> Napkin ring; but only for high tea.
>
> On Apr 13, 6:13 pm, William  wrote:
>
> > Grant posted a pdf with some photos
>
> >http://www.rivbike.com/assets/payloads/420/original_April_13_misc_Lay...
>
> > One is a new fork crown for a new bike that we may see from them.  It
> > looks like a Hunqa-crown and says its designed around a 60mm tire.
> > Then there's a little luggy thing to the right that Grant goes on and
> > on about whether it's to the right or to the crown's left, but never
> > says what it is.  It looks like a head tube reinforcer of some kind to
> > me, but I'm likely wrong.  Could it be tandem pieces?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Pics from inside Waterford

[Dan]

Yep, they paint there too. I toured the factory with a group of BOBs 
several years back. They had several Paramounts that had come in for 
restoration (and were absolutely perfect) and a guy was in the process of 
spraying a yellow Gunnar when we went by the paint booth.

It's been said before, but Richard Schwinn is a great guy and loves to show 
folks around his shop. They are also very proud of the precision that they 
hold their specs too. 

On Monday, February 17, 2014 11:43:56 PM UTC-6, Tony DeFilippo wrote:
>
> Hey Michael,
>
> Looked to me like they were painting in Waterford, but I didn't see it 
> happening.
>
> Tony
>

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[RBW] Re: Pondering Sale of 68cm Quickbeam

[Dan]

This is an easy one -- get a light set of wheels for the Atlantis.

On Sep 25, 11:14 am, Shaun Meehan  wrote:
> Thanks guys. Yeah, I've thought of selling the Atlantis instead of the QB.
> But I really like the Atlantis for longer, hilly rides where I want to carry
> stuff. And I have a dream of someday doing some loaded touring that I'm not
> ready to give up on quite yet. Basically I can do everything I
> need/want/might-some-day do with the Atlantis and I can't really say that's
> true for the QB. If I only keep one of 'em, it makes more sense to me to
> keep the Atlantis over the QB. I haven't decided what I'm going to do yet. I
> guess keeping both and funding the "go fast" via other means would be great.
> But I'm not sure I really want/need another bike when what I could have
> three (I also have a custom Carl Strong steel mountain bike) that serve all
> of my needs.
>
> I think for a "go fast", I could get away with a much smaller frame. I've
> ridden 62cm and 63cm road bikes in the past without too much discomfort. Of
> course I'm older and less limber now. I'm not sure what I'd get. My idea of
> a "go fast" is relative and not necessarily a swoopy carbon fiber bike or
> anything like that. I've had a local shop quote me on a built-up Surly
> Pacer, which I think could be made to work based on the TT length. I've
> ridden my brother's 62cm Surly Steamroller and it's not bad. Soma also has a
> frame that comes in sizes up to 66cm and I think the geometry might be
> sportier than what I consider to be the more "cruiserish" feel of the
> Atlantis. To me the QB feels quite a bit "sportier" than the Atlantis and
> similar geometry would work well for a "go fast".
>
> Shaun Meehan

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[RBW] Re: Good bike to ride, after a war.

[Dan]

nothing to do with the contest, but if Riv used photos like this on
their website rather than sterile shots of well-used bikes leaning
against white sheets, you might make an extra sale or three.  Maybe or
maybe not, but Ian's photos really bring out the character in the
Hunqa, IMO.  Makes me want one.

On Oct 5, 3:04 pm, James Warren  wrote:
> A sign that this is a good one is that trying to cheat and Google it reveals 
> nothing (at least when I tried cheating; but I wouldn't have claimed the 
> credits, trust me).
>
> -Original Message-
> >From: grant 
> >Sent: Oct 5, 2010 11:01 AM
> >To: RBW Owners Bunch 
> >Cc: John Bennett At Rivendell 
> >Subject: [RBW] Re: Good bike to ride, after a war.
>
> >This may go into the filed of failed fun experiments. Yes, Ian Dixon
> >was the poster who came up with it, but that's  not the answer. Ian
> >knows the answer--where HE got it from.
>
> >So do Briola, Bright, Beebe, Chan, and Jew (his last name, by the
> >way), Spindel..
>
> >The answer is the source of Ian's post-title. He didn't just make up,
> >"Good bike to ride, after a war."
>
> >Nottalotta time left.Small stakes, nail it soon or take this minor
> >defeat with Grace (she got it wrong, too).
>
> >Extended time to 3pm California time. Den dat's it.
>
> >G
>
> >--
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[RBW] Re: From full suspension to Bombadil??

[Dan]

I can reply to this thread with extreme authority because I am a 40-
something guy with kids who rides a rigid MTB and used to have a full-
boinger.  I got rid of the dual-squish bike cuz I became convinced I
would not live to be much older, or at best, become disabled and
unable to ride due to the false sense of ability that a full-sus bike
provides.

Seriously, if the urge to ride fast is gone, I think a rigid bike
actually gives more control and more enjoyment.  I have a Surly Karate
Monkey now and mostly ride it around the neighborhood for the same
reasons you do (lack of time to drive to the trails).  But, I do
occasionally get out on actual trails, including some really rocky and
gnarly trails (by Wisconsin standards, anyway) and at the "reasonable"
speeds I prefer to ride, I am glad not to have suspension.  The rigid
fork makes me feel much more in control and with big fat 2.2" tires
there truly is some suspension.

If I still rode downhills fast enough to make my vision blur and my
eyes tear, yeah, suspension would be nice.  Not gonna do that anymore,
and with 4 kids I really don't need the temptation.

Not to mention, and this is not trivial in my book, if I ignore the
Surly for a month and decide to go for a quick ride I can pump up the
tires and ride.  No messing with shock pumps, special shoes, or
anything like that.  just a helmet (usually) and I'm off. The Bombadil
is out of my budget so even if it was a bike that I was interested in
(it's not, but that's beside the point) but if it is your style then I
definitely wouldn't be put off by the lack of suspension.  In my book
it's a "feature".

On Sep 14, 4:08 pm, Dustin Sharp  wrote:
> It's interesting to note that one of the few modern "mountain bike"
> designers specializing in fully rigid bikes, Jeff Jones, uses many of the
> same design features as Rivendell to smooth out the ride:
>
> --highish bars
> --slackish seat tube angle
> --shortish top tube
> --super plump tires
>
> All of this is designed to get the weight off the hands and cushion the
> blow.  Lots of us can probably remember what it was like to descend a really
> rough trail back in the late 80s, early 90s with those old cross country
> bikes. I remember having to stop and constantly wring my hands out because
> of the abuse.
>
> I'd love to try descending on a Jones or Bombadil to see if it is an
> improvement over my early 90s MTB in that respect.
>
> Dustin "keeping his dual suspension 29er for now" Sharp
>
> > From: jinxed 
> > Reply-To: 
> > Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 13:01:55 -0700 (PDT)
> > To: RBW Owners Bunch 
> > Subject: [RBW] From full suspension to Bombadil??
>
> > I know asking a bunch of bike nuts "which bike for me" is a bit of a
> > silly proposition, but I do have some specific questions and would
> > love to hear the commentary.
>
> > So obviously as the thread title suggests, I am considering a
> > Bombadil, coming from a full suspension bike.
>
> > Now that comment in and of itself is fairly vague without some
> > background and detail. So here we go. I am freshly turned 38 and have
> > been a cyclist for the last 23 years. Cut the teeth on BMX racing,
> > then a die hard mountain biker for several years, a few at road
> > racing, and since have become an advocate of anything with 2 wheels.
> > For full disclosure I have worked on and off in the bike biz for 15
> > years. I ride as much as I can, but with my first child now 2, I tend
> > to do a bunch of trailer pulling and just for fun cruising. Which I
> > love. Competition, training, and "extreme" riding is well behind me. I
> > just love biking.
>
> > Having started mountain biking in the late 80's I have basically
> > spanned the full range from quite rigid non suspended bike (Klein
> > Adroit) to plush full boing (Yeti 303). The riding I enjoy is cross
> > country climbing type of rides. Twisty single track, trees, smooth
> > fast rollers...that's what I like. Maybe an occasional trip to Moab. I
> > am a sissy descender and don't do big hit kind of stuff. Colorado is
> > great because it offers up all manner of dirt fun, so I'm certainly
> > not lost for terrain here.
>
> > Now about 3 years ago, just before my daughter was born, I picked up a
> > new Yeti AS-R SLC full suspension cross country bike. All the sexy
> > stuff on it, light, fast, plush. Well, I rode it @ 6 times while my
> > wife was pregnant. Daughter came aboard, I became stay home dad, and
> > the bike has sat for 2 years. Now backing up a year, I realized I
> > needed a more utility oriented bike, and wanted a sort of townie do-
> > all. All my bikes were of some race oriented design, no rack
> > capability, and aggressively fit and geared. So, that led me to the
> > Bleriot. I have ridden nothing else since then. It fit the ticket so
> > perfectly it has almost become my main reason for riding. I just love
> > to ride it. Got rid of my old beach cruiser, road race bike, and cross
> > racing bike. No tears shed at all. But here's the rub.

[RBW] Re: 50 Miles on the Quickbeam today - thoughts on 40x18

[Dan]

I run my Quickbeam as a 40 x 16.  It works well for me.  Sometimes I
would like a little larger gear but I usually change my mind after a
large hill.  I found the stock 40 x 18 a little too low for my taste.
I have run a 40 x 18 on a different bike in the winter with studs and
that works fine.

Dan Abelson
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[RBW] Re: Seeking advice on 650b wheel replacement and internally geared hubs

[Dan]

Like Jim my experience with internally geared hubs has not been great
-- I know I may be in the minority.  I have not run an Alfine I have a
SRAM IMotion 3 speed.  Changing flats is more difficult and time
consuming.  I have had some other issues that have cropped up that
have been difficult to fix.  Finally, I have not been happy with the
winter performance.  The hub does not work well in the cold, things
freeze up and it often won't shift.  If I had a derailleur bike that
wouldn't shift in the cold I could at least manually move the chain
but with the IG I am stuck until it thaws or decides to start behaving
better.  I am actually seriously considering selling my IG bike and
building up a crosscheck as a 1 x 8 for commuting and child trailer
pulling duties.

Dan Abelson
Saint Paul, MN

On Jan 20, 7:57 pm, Tyler  wrote:
> I bought a used Bleriot some time ago that came with wheels made with
> Sunrim CR-18 rims and they're unquestionably from the oversized
> batch.  I knew about the oversized rims before I purchased the bike
> and decided the bike was well worth the price even if I had to replace
> the wheelset.  The wheels have been great aside from how unbearably
> difficult it is to fix a flat.. so far I've simply worked through the
> problem with brute force.  However, yesterday I spent over half an
> hour trying to just get the tire off the rear wheel and snapped a tire
> lever in the process.  I gave up and decided it was time to get a non-
> faulty set of wheels... it's hard enough to fix a punctured tube at
> home with these rims; I'd hate to have to do this on the side of the
> road (which I've been spared, so far).
>
> I know very little about wheels so I'm fishing for advice from those
> more knowledgeable.  The existing wheels are 36-spoke with Shimano
> Deore LX hubs; there's a 7-speed Hyperglide cassette on the rear.  I'm
> a big fellow (6ft, 220+ lbs) so I need something that's going to be
> strong enough for my daily commuting and light touring.
>
> I'm thinking about buying a built wheelset from Rivendell.  A set of
> wheels built with LX hubs is about half the price of a set of wheels
> with Phil "Rivy" hubs (w/ freewheel).  I don't understand what you
> gain by using the higher quality hubs, I'm sure a difference exists
> but I don't know what that is.  Is it worth the extra money and why?
>
> Alternatively, I'm kicking around the idea of building a rear wheel
> around an Alfine internally geared hub; I've always liked the idea of
> an internally geared hub for my kind of riding and it seems alot of
> folks swear by them for everyday riding.  If I want to go this route
> now would be a good time since I need to replace the wheels anyway.  I
> know that a few folks on this list have rivendells with this kind of
> setup (having searched through the old postings), I'm curious to know
> how those people feel about their shifting setups now that they've
> used them for months or years since last posting.
>
> Any input is appreciated, thank you!
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[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[Dan]

I don't think that I have ever shifted mine but I plan on doing some
more riding on unpaved trails this spring and I can see switching to
the smaller chainring for the off road portions as I have found the 40
x16 I usually run a little tall for any offroad with a bit of  hills.

Dan Abelson
St. Paul, MN

On Jan 27, 5:30 pm, "colin p. cummings" 
wrote:
> As a survey of sorts, how many QB owners out there do much gear
> changing on a regular or semi-regular basis?  I just bought a used QB
> frame and am wondering if a 4-gear configuration would be worth it.  I
> live in a pretty flat place (TX panhandle) and can only imagine
> changing gears to climb out of a canyon...
>
> Cheers,
>
> Colin Cummings
> Amarillo, TX
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[RBW] Re: Collective nouns for Riv's bikes

[Dan]

How about a "Roost of Rivendells."

Dan Abelson
Saint Paul, MN

On Jan 30, 4:01 pm, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> On Fri, 2009-01-30 at 14:13 -0500, Seth Vidal wrote:
> > On Fri, Jan 30, 2009 at 1:40 PM, Doug Peterson  wrote:
>
> > > A "cast of Rivendells" is fitting.  Since the Atlantis has been around a
> > > while & lots of them in the world, maybe an "aggregation of Atlantis'"?  A
> > > bit awkward, gotta work on that one.
>
> > How many Atlantis are there in total? I know what my SN is but I
> > expect there's some amount of encoding in there and not just a raw
> > number.
>
> I like a "gathering of Rivendells".
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[RBW] Re: Sackville bags: how necessary, and for what uses?

[Dan]

FYI if you are looking for Carradice Bags with the weak dollar it
seems to make sense to order them directly from England if you are
looking to save a few bucks.  Saint Johns Strees Cycles seems to have
a good supply
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/

Dan Abelson
Saint Paul, MN
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[RBW] Re: Specialized Sequoia

[Dan]

Actually your recall is incorrect. The Sequoia has 43-ish chainstays.
Near-identical geometry to a Ram, except the seatpost.  On my 62.5,
the SA was 74 degrees!  I sold it for that reason; I couldn't get the
seat back far enough.

The other diff. between the Ram and the Sequoia is the latter has
standard tubing which some prefer the feel of; while others like the
solid feel of the OS-tubed Ram.

I ride an 83 Expedition now as my daily commuter and it is also a
fabulous bike.  73.5 SA but I added an old MTE seatpost with gobs of
setback and it's fine.  I didn't keep the Sequoia long enough to form
an opinion of its ride but the Expedition is fast and responsive;
surprising attributes for a touring bike.  Of course, with a loaded
rear rack it wobbles and wiggles, so it would not be my choice for a
loaded tour.  Strange attributes for a touring bike, but for my
purpose it's great.

On Apr 14, 8:05 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:
> Similar to a Ram in function? Yes, in the sense of tire clearance and general 
> appearance. However, if I recall correctly, the sequoia has very long 
> chainstays, while the Ram had "short" chainstays (by Riv standards).

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[RBW] Re: pedal across wisconsin?

[Dan]

Hi Seth -- I live just west of Madison.  As a rule of thumb, because the 
glaciers stopped pretty much right at Madison (just west, to be precise, 
pretty much where I live) to the east the terrain is rolling and if you 
were in a car you would say "flat".  To the west, the main roads go through 
valleys but the scenic bike friendly roads meander up and down some pretty 
steep hills.  Most aren't super long but when I moved here I realized I'd 
need a granny gear.

Dan S

On Sunday, March 10, 2013 5:02:14 PM UTC-5, Seth Vidal wrote:
>
> Hi,
>  Does anyone on the list have any experience with:
>
> http://pedalacrosswisconsin.com/
>
> I'm a little curious about them - though I must admit - doing 50-60 
> miles/day for 6 days feels like it could leave me a bit tired - I'm curious 
> just how flat this really is and other experiences.
>
> Thanks,
> -sv
>
>

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[RBW] FS: Sam H., 60cm, Orange canti version

[Dan]

Hi All - - Checking for interest here before going to ebay.  Bought this to 
replace my old bike, then realized my old bike fit better.  So, for sale is the 
last-generation canti Sam, orange in color, in excellent shape.  Coupla paint 
chips on the head tube where the cables go by (so pretty much hidden by the 
cables) and that's about it.  A little drippage where the previous owner 
shellacked his bars whilst on the bike, so there are a couple drips on the 
forks, but nothing much.

Really a beautiful frame with outstanding craftsmanship, disappointed that it 
doesn't fit better but I am not your typical build so it's not the first time.  
Happy to supply pics to iinterested parties.

Asking $750 plus shipping ($35?). WIll be packed in Riv-supplied box and 
wrapped in Riv-supplied foam and whatnot.

thanks, Dan S., near Madison, WI

ps. Apologies from a mostly-luker posting of an FS; I assume if this is taboo a 
moderator will take this down...?

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[RBW] Re: FS: Sam H., 60cm, Orange canti version

[Dan]

Thought I'd bump this once and add photo links before it heads to ebay. 
 Thanks, Dan

http://s737.photobucket.com/albums/xx20/pjssully/?action=view¤t=IMG_3391_zps20db3bd3.jpg
http://s737.photobucket.com/albums/xx20/pjssully/?action=view¤t=IMG_3398_zps531ff472.jpg

On Monday, September 17, 2012 9:55:08 PM UTC-5, LF wrote:
>
> Got pics?  What is included?  Back channel is fine.
> Best, Larry

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[RBW] FS Grant's running shoes size 12.5

[Dan]

I bought a pair of the Altra shoes on closeout that Grant posted about a 
while back. They said buy one size bigger than your normal shoe, but since 
they didn't have 13's I thought I'd try 12.5s.  Well, they were right, you 
need to go a full size bigger.  Anyway, since there was a bit of discussion 
on the list about these, before I send them back I thought I'd give the 
list a crack at these at the closeout-plus-coupon price.  Brand new, only 
tried on one of them and it was obvious they were too short, so I 
immediately took it off and put it back in the box. same silver color as on 
the BLUG.  $55 shipped.  thanks, Dan

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[RBW] Re: FS Grant's running shoes size 12.5

[Dan]

well, I had planned to use them for cycling.  Personally, I don't run, I 
was just interested because it is so hard for me to find shoes that fit, 
and these are wide for my wide feet and they have minimal arch support 
which also seemed good.

so yeah, as much as any non-cycling-specific shoe can be used for cycling, 
these could. They seem like they are very breathable so would be good 
warm-weather wear.

Dan S., Madison, WI

On Wednesday, September 26, 2012 8:04:51 AM UTC-5, Big Paulie wrote:
>
>
>
> Are Altras suitable for cycling, or just running? 
>

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[RBW] Re: Pondering fatherhood

[Dan]

When my first daughter was born (19 years ago, time flies) I ran out and 
got a Burley trailer.  I was really excited to get her into the fun of 
biking with me, but the first few times we rode around the local lake she 
fussed and complained. The highlight for her was getting out at the park at 
the halfway point and swinging on the swings.  Then one day, when she was 
about 8 months old, we were on the return leg of the loop and on a little 
downhill I let the bike go faster than I usually did.  Halfway down the 
hill, coming from the trailer I heard "Wh!  Wh!" I was so happy, 
still makes me smile when I think about it.  Today that girl has 3 bikes 
and is always up for a ride. Hectic summer schedules scuttled plans for an 
overnight last year but we're gonna hope for one again this summer.

On Thursday, February 11, 2016 at 2:11:56 PM UTC-6, Matt Gilkey wrote:
>
> Congratulations and Good luck Jim!!  As a father of two sons, two and 
> four, and working full time while going to grad school I have to say that 
> becoming a parent is the single most difficult thing I have ever done.  But 
> it is by far the most rewarding thing I have ever done, and has changed me 
> for the better in more ways than I could have possibly imagined. You truly 
> gain a new perspective on life. This change comes on slowly though, so 
> don't expect it to all happen right away.  I second the recommendation of 
> finding a good bike trailer. Being a parent has definitely cut down on my 
> riding and wrenching time, but incorporating your children into your riding 
> helps.  
>
> -Matt
>
> On Wednesday, February 10, 2016 at 8:09:31 PM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
>> Yep yep yep
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Best advice for securing bikes in a garage

[Dan]

I got my first Bstone courtesy of Piedmont (next door to Oakland) bike thieves. 
My brother, who lives there, had his MB-2 stolen and after waiting half 
heatedly for a couple weeks bought a new one. Then, the police returned his old 
one which he then sold to me for a friendly price. Since then his and his 
wife's bikes have been stolen again at least one more time, but has since moved 
to a different area. Nothing to do with bike security though, as they were 
stolen when he was working around the house and had the garage open.  Pretty 
brazen thieves.

Dan in small town WI where bike thieves are not common

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[RBW] Re: riv style car repair and tire question

[Dan]

 Hey Joe -- I have never run the Marathon Supremes but my plain Marathons 
were pretty awful. Compared to them, the Panaracer Paselas I run are smooth 
and fast.

Dan

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[RBW] Re: Hillborne + Rock N' Roads + (woody) Fenders

[Dan]

Every time I see a photo of a Sam with RnR's I regret selling mine 
prematurely. Anybody got a 60cm green Sam they're not riding that they 
would sell?

On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 4:08:38 PM UTC-5, Jeff wrote:
>
> Despite the fact that my Hillborne with Noodles and Barlow Pass tires is 
> the best bike ever, I've had a hankering to get the set of rock n' roads on 
> there for a ramble or three through the local off-roady trails. Being a 
> member of team fenders made this more of an engineering effort than it had 
> to be if I could have just allowed myself to yank the existing longboard 
> fenders off.
>
> I knew for sure I'd need to split the front fender into a front and rear 
> segment, as there would not be room for the fender to pass under the fork 
> crown. Having had Cody at woodysfenders.com make me a customer rear 
> chopped fender for my recent XOXO build, I thought it would be a good idea 
> to have him make and chop a front fender for me. I thought I might get away 
> without having to have a split rear fender, but I ordered some extra 
> hardware from Cody in case I had to split the fender myself. 
>
> I spent a bit of time this morning getting everything sorted, which 
> included having to cut the rear fender into two segments. I'm happy to now 
> have a befendered rock n' roaded Hillborne. There's a fair amount of 
> clearance, though I don't think I'll be doing any mud-bogging with any 
> success, but I don't suppose that's my style anyhow. Ride report is pending 
> some adventurous extracurricular commuting this week - for now, indoor pics:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -Jeff
> Silver Spring, MD
>

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[RBW] Re: Redwood Rebuilt.

[Dan]

Those Redwoods just look right, and I like those bars too.

Dan

On Tuesday, May 12, 2015 at 6:53:26 PM UTC-5, David Banzer wrote:
>
> Swapped out some parts on my Redwood...
> Added:
> Selle-Anatomica Saddle
> Nitto B132 Handlebars
> Newbaum's Burnt Orange Tape (clear shellacked - matches parts of the 
> headbadge)
> Dura Ace Crankset (thanks Patrick!) with Phil BB and cobbled together 
> chainrings (chopped up triplizer as outer ring)
> Alloy Bell
> Bags (very light commuting mode, and coffee kit rides)
>
> Couldn't help but take photos when I got home: 
> http://s821.photobucket.com/user/dabanzer/slideshow/Rivendell%20Redwood?sort=6
>
> David
> Chicago
>

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[RBW] WTB: Sam Hillborne, first-gen green, 60cm

[Dan]

Unlikely as it may be to find someone on this list willing to part with 
one, I will ask anyway.  This is the first-gen metallic green one, not the 
later sage green model. Why this one?  Two reasons: canti brakes; and the 
slightly longer top tube (I believe it was 62cm on this one). Let me know 
if ya got one and what ya want for it. Don't worry if yours is scratched 
and scraped or otherwise beausage'd.

thanks,
Dan
South-central Wisconsin

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Re: [RBW] Re: Elephant National Park Explorer

[Dan]

I'd be interested in folks' experience with the XL size too. This frame is 
really really close to my ideal; recently I've even come to think discs are 
a good idea on this type of bike.  At this point my biggest hesitation is 
the wheel size, even though I thought the wheels on my 29er felt TOO big, 
650B still scares me for some reason. 

Dan

On Tuesday, June 2, 2015 at 11:10:32 AM UTC-5, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> I don't know what the XL standover is but the Elephant folks did offer to 
> work with me on a full custom NFE frame since the stock sizes in their 
> production run will not fit me.  I promised not to divulge any specifics so 
> I won't, but I would recommend calling or emailing them and talking to them 
> about it.
>
> I didn't end up getting the frame built, but it wasn't due to a lack of 
> want - the reasons were primarily financial on my side.  I ended up buying 
> that 68 Redwood that was on eBay a while ago - but the Redwood is 
> definitely more of a compromise for the intended task than the NFE would 
> have been.
>
> I would contact them and see if they will work with you, if you don't 
> think the stock XL would fit.  Nice folks.
>
> On Mon, Jun 1, 2015 at 9:20 PM, Daniel Jackson  > wrote:
>
>> Anybody out there have an XL Elephant? If so, might you report the 
>> standover?
>>
>> Thanks much,
>> D.
>>
>>
>> On Monday, June 1, 2015 at 6:40:14 PM UTC-6, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>>
>>> There were a ton of the NFE on the Oregon Outback and I have to admit I 
>>> was envious. Many were setup just like I had my Atlantis - front panniers, 
>>> rando boxy bag, and a saddle bag. They can fit 2.35 knobbies, or 42 slicks 
>>> with fenders. On the wet descents with the loaded bike, I definitely wanted 
>>> their disc brakes. I have Paul touring canti's with kool stop salmon and 
>>> they were all but useless when we got up to 70km/h with wet rims. The 
>>> finish on them is very good, and they're very light. I'm actually planning 
>>> on buying one next season, but keeping the Atlantis for the real heavy 
>>> lifting. 
>>>
>>> On Monday, June 1, 2015 at 7:10:55 PM UTC-5, Hudson Doerge wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I absolutely love my first batch NFE. The tubing is perfect for my 
>>>> weight, uses, and riding style. The fork is more supple than my previous 
>>>> rawland rsogn and my simpleone, but all things aren't equal so it's pretty 
>>>> hard to say with certainty. As I understand it, it's possible to make a 
>>>> supple disc fork, but very difficult in a production setting. Glen had 
>>>> special mounts machined locally to keep the fork as compliant as possible. 
>>>> All I really know is that the bike rides wonderfully and was a killer 
>>>> value 
>>>> for a domestically made frame. Highly recommend. 
>>>>
>>>> Hudson in atx. 
>>>
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>
>
>
> -- 
> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!
>  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Blug on long chainstays

[Dan]

That Clementine in the photo on the blug is a really nice looking bike.  All 
those curves and whatnot.  And shiny black paint.  Beaut.

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[RBW] Re: Didn't see that coming... Segmented Cast Fork Crown on BLUG

[Dan]

that is a really cool crown.  And, I've never wanted a cycling cap before 
but that brown Clem cap is pretty cool.  Still too small for my huge noggin 
tho I'm sure.

Dan
So. Wis.

On Tuesday, July 7, 2015 at 5:52:18 PM UTC-5, EGNolan wrote:
>
> When they teased a while back, I had no idea what part it would be, but 
> didn't dream of this beauty... http://rivbike.tumblr.com
>

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[RBW] Trigger Shifters?

[Dan]

The number of rear cogs i use stopped at 8 speed setups, but have used most 
available shifting options, and the two best were first-gen xtr triggers and 
Ultegra bar ends mounted on paul thumbie mounts. Still have the Paul's, and 
they still work fantastically. Greatly prefer them over xt triggers on this 
bike.

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[RBW] Re: What's in your garage?

[Dan]

As I procrastinate about what I should be doing, here is what is in my 
garage, my shed, and my basement, depending on where they're at in stages 
of repair, tweaking, or getting ridden. Riv content: all but one are steel, 
and most of them are lugged. My collection has grown and shrunk over the 
years, but three bikes is where I tend to hover. Road, commuter, and 
mountain-y.

My long-term bikes:
65cm 1983 Specialized Expedition with an e-assist front hub and battery in 
a Revelate bag.  Stealth e-bike, main commuter for my long hilly commute.
62cm 1991 Bstone RB-T, repainted and with a Bilenky low trail fork. The 
bike that makes me say "a" nearly every time I get on for a ride.

New arrival:
1990ish 22" Trek 950. Latest attempt to find love with a fat tire 26" bike. 
Had a 930 briefly a couple years ago that had a too-long Kona P2 fork that 
goofed up the steering, otherwise I was surprised how much I liked it. 
Hoping this will be as nice and steer good too. Also my experiment to see 
if shorter cranks will bother me; have a pair of old Ritchey microdrive 
cranks in 172.5 that are too cool not try.

Spousal and kids' bikes:
19" 1992 Trek 750. Wife's. Lugged steel, bullmoose bars. Neat bike. 
Replaced a pretty red XO-3 that had TCO and squirrely handling.
21" Diamondback Apex. Full 7-speed Deore. Bought for myself, decided it was 
too small, gave to son who needed a new bike. Very solid, good handling, 
good looking bike.  Wish it fit me.
17.5" Fisher MTB. Disc brakes. A curb find (neighbor's kid outgrew it). 
Nice bike, other son has almost outgrown it.
17" Diamond Apex with smoke paint and straight fork. Cool little bike from 
CL I recently got for my daughter as a campus bike. Set up as a 1x7.
19" Trek 520 from the lugged years.  Solid little touring bike.  Daughter's 
bike, too nice to take to college. Needs a repaint and has a replacement 
fork that is not the best.
Fisher Aquila. Curb find from way back when. Now has XT and Dura Ace hubs 
on Campy 26" rims.  Daughter's other bike, wheels are too nice for 
college... :)

The rest is mostly OT, just while I'm typing wanted to list all the bikes I 
can remember passing through my shop in the last 20 years or so.

Recently departed: Big old Trek 850 from the first year of production. Too 
tall for me to ride comfortably off road, replaced by slightly smaller 950 
above.

Sole Rivendell: Briefly owned an orange canti Sam.  Surprised how little I 
liked the color since orange is otherwise my favorite color for anything, 
not just bikes, and found it too stiff for my taste so sold it a couple 
years ago.

Departed Bstones and other lugged bikes I still like to talk about: 1989 
55cm MB-2 (my first good steel bike, planed for me when I was younger and 
stronger, hooked me on steel bikes, not sure why I sold it), 1994 62cm RB-1 
with 8-speed Superbe Pro (prettiest bike ever), 1992 62cm RB-2 blue and 
white, 1978 65cm  Trek 710 (besides the MB-2 the only bike I've sold that 
I've kind of wished I hadn't), 1983 65cm Trek 720 (nice but slow), 1982 
65cm Trek 614 (whippy frame, ghost shifted like mad), 1983 65cm Trek 700 
(hmm, do I like old lugged Treks or something? repainted this one ugly, 
prompting me to sell it before giviing it a chance), 1983 62cm Specialized 
Sequoia (brief stop here before finding its forever home with another bob), 
1992 23" Trek 930 mentioned above.

Other departed cool bikes: Specialized Stumpjumpers (2) - a 22" from 1983 
or so, and a 21.5: from the early 90s. Schwinn Homegrowns (2) - rigid 
maroon and gray bassboat paint, singlespeed. Super light, super stiff. The 
other was orange bass boat full-sus, pretty nice bike overall, very light 
for full-sus. Trek Y-22, horrible handling off road, actually used as a 
commuter for a while with slicks and the sus locked out.  Bontrager Race 
XL. Orange. Didn't like the handling and the short head tube.

Dan in WI, who thinks he's done shuffling bikes for a while.



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[RBW] Re: FYI: Saluki on Ebay

[Dan]

I would never buy this, there are "scratches around entire bike"!!

On Thursday, September 10, 2015 at 1:24:20 PM UTC-5, cyclot...@gmail.com 
wrote:
>
> That's the Contrarius Saeculum upgrade!
>
> On Thursday, September 10, 2015 at 11:08:02 AM UTC-7, Minh wrote:
>>
>> Ah, Eric, good eye, i didn't even think about that as an option.
>>
>> On Thursday, September 10, 2015 at 2:03:33 PM UTC-4, EricK wrote:
>>>
>>> I see a threadless quill stem converter, not a threadless headset.  The 
>>> cockpit, saddle and drivetrain has me thinking someone cannibalized their 
>>> Bianchi Veloce.
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Odd New Bike (HS)

[Dan]

Hmmm -- do the canti braze-ons look like they're set for small wheels
to anybody else?

Dan S., SW Wisc.

On Dec 6, 10:05 am, MSmith  wrote:
> I think the extra, asymmetrical "chainstays" are purely aesthetic whimsy.
> The mixte lug for the diagatube has sockets for stays to go back to the
> rear dropout.  In the description, Grant mentions that he wanted a diagonal
> tube - functional use be damned!  He used the mixte lug, in lieu of the
> Hunqha lug,  so here are these extra sockets that can be ground off
> (boring) of he could stick some crazy tubes to:  a) look interesting and
> unique, b) because things don't always need a purpose, c) and the likes of
> the people on this list would have a field day trying to figure out WHY.
>
> Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar.
>
> Cheers- Mike in So. Boston, Mass

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[RBW] Re: Odd New Bike (HS)

[Dan]

well, then, I for one don't see a heckuvalot that's unusual.  Quirky
and eccentric, maybe, but still looks like a Riv.

On Dec 6, 10:34 am, Joe Bernard  wrote:
> No canti mounts. You're seeing midmount rack eyelets.

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[RBW] Re: Odd New Bike (HS)

[Dan]

and they all proceeded to hold their breath...

:)

On Dec 6, 12:53 pm, William  wrote:
> >it feels more like a V.2 for Bomba.
>
> I'll disagree that conjecture just on the grounds of it looking like a
> caliper-brake only bike.  No canti posts, no disk mounts, no apparent
> provisions for a hub-brake of any kind, except maybe in the rear if those
> tentacle-stays have something to do with braking.

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[RBW] Re: The American (aka MUSA) List

[Dan]

What others on the list are not really MUSA, Reid wondered?

Velo orange is on there, most of their stuff is China or Taiwan. 

Waterford is not on the list, and their factory is down the road here in WI...

Yeah, pretty useless.

Can't believe much of what you read is truer every day.

Dan S, WI

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[RBW] Re: Vintage Expedition vs. AHH and Atlantis

[Dan]

Kevin, I have an '83 Expedition (65cm) that has 73.5/73.5 angles and a 
surprisingly lively ride. Moreso than the 60cm HIllborne I owned briefly. 
However, with a rear load my Expedition sways quite noticeably when you're 
pedaling hard. Moving the load amidships and upfront makes it behave much 
better. Not sure if some of this is due to the large frame, but that's my 
experience anyway.  I use the bike primarily for commuting and I love it; 
it feels fast and comfortable.

Dan

On Thursday, March 2, 2017 at 10:54:55 AM UTC-6, Kevin Lindsey wrote:

> Greetings.
> I'm in the process of building up a 1983 Specialized Expedition (which is 
> a really lovely bike).  From a distance, the frame looks to have more or 
> less the same geometry as the AHH or, possibly, the Atlantis.  Does anyone 
> have experience with the vintage Expeditions such that he or she could 
> compare its ride to one of the Rivs? 
> Thanks,
> Kevin Lindsey
> Alexandria, VA
>

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[RBW] WTB Cheviot 60cm or Clem L 59cm

[Dan]

Looking for a trusty step through bike and figured I would see if there are 
any on here that need new homes. Built bikes would be preferred.

This would be my first Rivendell.

Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: ISO 170mm crankset

[Dan]

Have you had a look at the Spacycles cranksets? Specifically the TD2 super 
compact double. 
You can choose the arm length and the gearing. I have a 38-24 on my 
Appaloosa and will get a 44-28 for a Roadini build I am cooking up. Not 
expensive and they look fantastic!

On Tuesday 15 October 2024 at 22:15:09 UTC+10:30 Igor wrote:

> I am going to build up a Romulus and looking for a crankset for it. 170mm, 
> silver. Sugino XD2 would be fine, or something sleeker/lighter would be 
> great too. Anyone have something? I'd like 50/34 or lower gearing
>

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[RBW] Re: The new Atlantis is goiong to be a damn hillibike monster!

[Dan]

I’m curious to know if the 2025 Atlantis has changed much from the previous 
one. For some reason, I thought it always had a slack-ish head tube angle?

On Saturday 19 October 2024 at 07:38:09 UTC+10:30 iamkeith wrote:

> I spend a lot of time looking at geometry charts.  Not because I know what 
> I'm talking about - but because, with my odd proportions, it is extremely 
> difficult for me to find bikes that fit well.  
>
> I often buy bikes just because they DO fit me - even if I don't really 
> need them.  Meanwhile, I keep looking for "the one."  (Honestly, I really 
> just need to break down and get a custom, but I haven't trusted myself to 
> get it right... so buying other bikes is sort of "practice" until I do.)
>
> Owning six Rivendells of my own, I also feel like I should sort of be able 
> to tell if a new model is going to get me closer to what I ultimately 
> want.  (OTOH, my Susie was a perfect example of NOT understanding or 
> guessing or extraplolating well enough.  I love it, but it is a totally 
> different bike than I expected it would be from just looking at the charts.)
>
> So,  with that disclaimer:  I was daydreaming and studying the new 
> Atlantis geometry charts as I am prone to do.  The literature / web 
> description still describes it as an All Rounder but, by my analysis, it 
> sure seems more like a Hillibike!  Don't get me wrong - this is FANTASTIC 
> as far as I'm concerned.
>
> See my chart markup, below.  The most equivalent past model actually seems 
> to be the original Clem H.  I own and love that bike too, but I've said 
> since day-one that I wish it had:  (1) slightly shorter chainstays; (2) 
> slightly longer top tube; (3) slightly more stand-over clearance; (4) much 
> slacker headtube angle; and (5) fully-lugged construction.  the Atlantis 
> achieves three of those things!   
>
> Alsas and as usual, I fall squarely between sizes and the "suggested PBH 
> ranges would put me on a bike that is otherwise much too small.  So I don't 
> know if it's in my future, but I'm sure going to be considering it.   For 
> those who regret missing out on the Clem H when it was available,  this is 
> probably a good opportunity - so I thought I'd share this:
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: The new Atlantis is goiong to be a damn hillibike monster!

[Dan]

My own thoughts about geometry changes:
When the 2024 Appaloosa came out, I was slightly anxious that it made my 
new, 2023 model redundant.
"But it's slacker now", I thought, "so it'll be better on trails! And I 
ride trails!"
But then that thought passed, and I rode the bike. And I rode it some more. 
And I realised it is actually great on trails, and off them.
And my model handles fantastically with a loaded-up front basket, which, 
who knows, might be due to the steeper head angle!

All this is to say that continual tweaks to geometry are a good thing and I 
love to see continual improvement. The new Atlantis will ride great, as I'm 
sure the old one did, as does the Appaloosa (of all forms) and the Clem H. 
They're great bikes! 

I'll finish with the text from the Atlantis product description, which 
hasn't changed from when I got my older-geo Appaloosa:

*The Atlantis wheelbase is about three to four percent longer. In theory, 
the Atlantis will feel smoother, less reactive. In practice, any difference 
you might feel in a side-by-side test is far more likely to come from the 
bar, stem, and wheels. *

*Both fit tires up to 2.3 inches fairly comfortably.*

*The Atlantis top tube is about a centimeter or two longer than the top 
tube on the closest-sized Appaloosa. That makes it marginally better for 
swept-back handlebars. I have both bikes, set up similarly, and I can't 
tell ANY difference.*

On Tuesday 22 October 2024 at 07:37:32 UTC+10:30 bmfo...@gmail.com wrote:

> Here's to hoping the 55mm tire clearance on that chart will be updated. 
> The most recent atlantis took 2.4s, right? Seems like they wouldn't go back 
> down from there.
>
> I'd love to see an Atlantis w/ clearance for 29x2.6. But maybe that's just 
> a gus/susie
>
> On Monday, October 21, 2024 at 3:47:43 PM UTC-5 iamkeith wrote:
>
>> On Sunday, October 20, 2024 at 5:24:47 PM UTC-6 Josh C wrote:
>>
>> Sounds like you're describing a fully lugged Clem, no? 
>>
>>
>> I think this question was to me?  Yes, that's what I want - but I guess 
>> what I'm arguing is that the new Atlantis basically IS a fully-lugged 
>> version of the first Clem.  Just with a couple of refinements - those being 
>> a slacker head angle and slightly-shorter-but-still-long chainstays.  
>>
>> (I hope I'm not offending RBWQH asserting this.  Once again, I think it's 
>> really great.  For people with normal proportions, it's perfect.  In my 
>> case, all I'd want to do is personalize a few dimensions for fit purposes 
>> only.   It would be easier if I didn't prefer the rigidity and aesthetics 
>> of the diamond frame, I guess, and the current Clem L might even be great.)
>>
>> It isn't that surprising that things evolved this way, in retrospect.  
>> Remembering well the first discussion and germination of the Clem idea - 
>> not unlike the Bombadil and Hunquapillar before it - the goal was to create 
>> a kind of an homage or throwback to older, analog ATBs from the 1980s, 
>> before they all got twitchy race geometries and were all built around 
>> suspension forks.  The most significant differnece being some subtle 
>> changes to make them more comfortable - like lower bbs and taller 
>> headtubes.   
>>
>> The Clem added a few additional criteria though:  Less expensive to 
>> build; Less likely to get targeted by thieves; Using-up some lugs from an 
>> abandoned project.  But I feel like it ALSO served as a platform for trying 
>> out a bunch of new ideas that ended up being wildly successful:  Super-long 
>> chainstays, in lenghts that were *proportional* to the rest of the 
>> frame; Even longer top tubes to work with the newish-at-the-time, 
>> ultra-swept-back Bosco bar.
>>
>> It's wonderful but not surprising how successful and popular the Clem has 
>> gone on to be.  But as it blazed it's own path, it also sort of morphed 
>> into something a bit different.  Like the best, most-comfortable and 
>> most-useful town bike ever, for lack of another category.  To me, that left 
>> the original ATB-concept model slot - the thing I most want - kind of 
>> missing in the lineup.  Gus and Susie are (were) great but, as someone who 
>> has a Susie and an early Clem, and who came of age along with the first 
>> mountain bikes, they're almost too MUCH "mountain bike" for a daily-rider, 
>> do-everything (i.e.:  All-Rounder) bike.
>>
>> Those early ATBs were so popular for a reason.  They WERE All-rounders, 
>> in the truest sense, and got the masses on bikes for the first time. At 
>> least where I live.  Elsewhere, there was the 70s 10-speed boom, I guess. 
>> Even people who didn't live in the mountains like I did bought them. You 
>> could ride them all day, ride them anywhere, take them on tours, ride fast, 
>> or ride slow.  I  moved my dad into senior living recently, and his old 
>> Stumpjumper is is still in his garage, and I can't bring myself to move it 
>> or get rid of it.  I like remembering that these bikes even got my parents 
>> out riding!  
>>

[RBW] Re: Did Charlie Gallop lose its swoopy top tube?

[Dan]

Looks like Riv updated the store page with a full description of the 
production version of the Gallop.
They cover everything, from the top tube and brake changes, tubing, sizing 
with various bars and whether you should buy one for your girlfriend ha!
I always enjoy reading the descriptions, and it looks like a fun bike. It's 
certainly unique! I hope they do well.
https://www.rivbike.com/products/frame-charlie-gallop 

They've also updated the full geometry chart, including now the lugged 
Roadini and the 2025 Atlantis... *eye emoji*
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1403/7343/files/RBW_Bicycle_Geometries_10162024.pdf?v=1729114939

On Saturday 18 May 2024 at 03:24:47 UTC+9:30 arti...@gmail.com wrote:

> The design decision for the straight top tube unfortunately killed my 
> interest in the frame. What a pity (for me)…
>
> On Saturday 9 September 2023 at 20:37:51 UTC+2 iamkeith wrote:
>
>> Veering ever-so-slightly off topic, and apologies to those who don't have 
>> facebook, but check out the bike in this video:
>>
>> https://www.facebook.com/reel/1148753762570679?mibextid=9drbnH
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] 2024 Appaloosa has arrived. Considering putting it together myself but have never done this.

[Dan]

So my beautiful Appaloosa has arrived. I am practically foaming at the 
mouth as I type. As I am sure most of you are aware, Rivendell sends 
complete bikes mostly built with the exception of the stem, seat tube 
saddle and pedals. I originally planned on bring my bike to a shop to have 
them complete the build for me but after some shopping around, the shops 
will charge a full build fee which averages around $150. That is far too 
much for such little work in my opinion.

I am no bike mechanic. I have always enjoyed tinkering though so I have 
half a mind to attempt to put the rest together myself and then bring it to 
a shop to be tuned, which would cost much less than a "full build". 

Should I go ahead and give it a shot? I have access to the proper tools, I 
just do not know where to start and obviously do not want to damage 
anything in the process.

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[RBW] Re: Lost Sierra Loop Trip Report

[Dan]

Oh my goodness: falling bikes, gunshots, snow, dooring, flat tyres... what 
a crazy adventure! Doesn't seem to have dampened your enthusiasm in the 
least though.
On Sunday 27 October 2024 at 10:17:00 UTC+10:30 diana@gmail.com wrote:

> I did the Lost Sierra Loop 
>  back-to-back with the 
> Smoke 
> and Fire 400 . 
> The Smoke and Fire 400 will be a separate Trip Report.  
>
> Our bikes:
>
> Diana’s: 2022 Platypus, 51 cm, Rene Herse 27.5”x2.2’ tires. Choco 
> Handlebars, friction shifters, 38x24 crank and 9 speed cassette
>
> Michael’s: Stock Salsa Cut Throat
>
>  
>
> May 25
>
> Miles: Approx 50 miles
>
> I left SF at 5:15am and met Michael at the trailhead at 9:15 am. Michael 
> is uncharacteristically late. When he arrives, I find out that his bike 
> *fell* *off his bike rack*. This is one of my worst fears and I 
> neurotically check my bike over and over and worry about every bump I hit 
> in the car. I always thought (hoped?) I was just overly anxious… Luckily 
> for Michael, that little strap over the back tire kept his bike from 
> falling completely off the rack. Turns out the front portion of his rack 
> was too far forward on his front tire (he had bottle cages that prevented 
> him from putting the front rack closer to his front fork) and the front 
> portion of his rack slid off his front tire and his bicycle toppled over 
> onto the back end of his rack. Everybody says they transport their bikes 
> with front racks just fine, but this is the single reason I don’t ride with 
> a front rack! Anyway, Michael immediately pulls over and shoved his bike in 
> the car and he meets me at the trailhead. We’re riding by 10am after some 
> tune-ups to our rigs. 
>
> The beginning of the ride isn’t the best. It’s on a fire road where ATVs 
> are cruising by and it’s a little dusty. However, after the first few miles 
> we start getting some better views. The beginning of the ride is always a 
> little hard. We don’t have our trail legs under us yet, but we are so 
> excited to be riding. We just take it slow and grind up. 
>
> We both get flats on our tubeless tires and I think to myself that I’m 
> swearing off tubeless. However, Michael advises me that I gotta keep riding 
> to get the sealant to seal whatever caused the hole and he’s right. After a 
> few ride, stop to pump, ride, stop to pump iterations, my tire holds air.
>
> We make it into Taylorsville and we buy 4-beers and fill up water here. 
> We’re both shocked the beer is only $2/can. I carry the beers in my Ortlieb 
> Panniers and we grind up on China Grade Road. I’m riding on my easiest gear 
> but I’m hardly going faster than walking pace. During this stretch I will 
> get *demolished* by some insect and not realize it. I’ll end the day with 
> 15+ insect bites and hate life for a little while. I also fall while 
> clipped in and snap my Cateye computer wire. This is sad because I love 
> getting my mileage at the end of each day. 
>
> [image: PXL_20240525_235828130.jpg]
>
> After getting up China Grade Road the only thing separating us from sleep 
> is finding a place to camp. Most trips Michael and I don’t know where we 
> will camp and just wing it. We both suffer from paranoia that when we stop 
> for a campsite there will be a pristine campsite *just around the bend*. 
> So 2 miles later we pull a little ways off of the road hoping for a view, 
> getting none, but deciding we don’t want to ride at night. We crack open 
> our beers, eat our dinners, and are asleep by 9:35pm.
>
>  
>
> May 26
>
> Miles: Approx 50
>
> I am woken up by *tons *of gunshots and the sound of a chainsaw. I have 
> never been happier to be camping a little ways off the trail. This noise 
> goes on for an hour? I’m in a deep deep sleep and can’t quite pull myself 
> out of my slumber. I almost think it’s a dream until I hear the loudest 
> CRACK. I have no idea what’s happening out there. Michael and I whisper to 
> each other in our tents. Mostly. “oh my god  *what is happening??*” I 
> really don’t know what would have happened if they had spotted us, would we 
> have run?? We fall back into uneasy sleep.
>
> Michael and I are riding by 6:30am. 1 minute into our ride we see what all 
> the noise was. Whoever was out in the middle of the night cut down a big 
> tree. It’s really sad and I’m sure it was illegal. 
>
>
> We immediately have a very steep grade to deal with so we just hop off the 
> bikes and push up. We want to get to the top of Mount Hough but its snowy 
> up there and really muddy. We ditch the bikes by the side of the road and 
> walk up the muddy road. At the top we can see Mt. Lassen and we’re really 
> glad we made the trek up. 
>
>
> We walk down, hop on our bikes and are about to have beautiful ascent. 
> This is literally the best single track I have ever ridden. I cannot 
> recommend this enough. I plan to go back again in the 

[RBW] Re: 2024 Appaloosa has arrived. Considering putting it together myself but have never done this.

[Dan]

Thanks for all the feedback everyone. Aaron, great video. That is really 
helpful. Bill, my bike is built at Riv so I appreciate you letting me know 
the difference. I have some Phil wood grease on the way now. I have tools 
that a friend is lending me, but I will grab my own as well. I'll be sure 
to get a bike stand too. 
On Thursday, October 24, 2024 at 9:16:00 AM UTC-6 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> "As I am sure most of you are aware, Rivendell sends complete bikes mostly 
> built with the exception of the stem, seat tube saddle and pedals"
>
> This is a true statement about two VERY different things:
>
> 1. A pro at Rivendell, like Mark Abele, personally pulled together your 
> build, did the entire build like the pro he is, and THEN handed it over to 
> Antonio or somebody else who professionally boxed it up by removing the 
> parts you list.  
> 2. You bought a Riv Complete, which came in a box in a container from Asia 
> and was partially assembled at the factory.
>
> Which of the two cases are we talking about?  If it's #1, then I concur 
> that it's not a huge job.  You've already paid Mark to do "the build" and 
> paid Antonio to do "the boxing".  The job you are paying a shop for is not 
> "a build".  It's an "unboxing".  Sure, if it's an unboxing, do it yourself. 
>
> If it's #2, then to do it right, a lot of what has been "assembled" should 
> really come apart so it can be done right.  A $150 quote is roughly 2.5 
> hours of work, and that's about right for a good mechanic to execute a 
> proper build on a Riv Complete, in my opinion.  If you've never done any of 
> that before, if you were determined to do it right, then budget for 2-3x 
> that time.  If you were determined to leave the pre-built stuff exactly as 
> it is, and not re-do anything, that's another approach, but it's not a 
> substitute for the $150 job you'd get from a good mechanic at a good shop.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Wednesday, October 23, 2024 at 10:37:54 AM UTC-7 Dan wrote:
>
>> So my beautiful Appaloosa has arrived. I am practically foaming at the 
>> mouth as I type. As I am sure most of you are aware, Rivendell sends 
>> complete bikes mostly built with the exception of the stem, seat tube 
>> saddle and pedals. I originally planned on bring my bike to a shop to have 
>> them complete the build for me but after some shopping around, the shops 
>> will charge a full build fee which averages around $150. That is far too 
>> much for such little work in my opinion.
>>
>> I am no bike mechanic. I have always enjoyed tinkering though so I have 
>> half a mind to attempt to put the rest together myself and then bring it to 
>> a shop to be tuned, which would cost much less than a "full build". 
>>
>> Should I go ahead and give it a shot? I have access to the proper tools, 
>> I just do not know where to start and obviously do not want to damage 
>> anything in the process.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FYI: Platypus & Appaloosa frames available at Blue Lug

[Dan]

You may have resisted, but I couldn’t!
I picked up a Roadini frame from them recently and am now accumulating 
parts for a build. 
Don’t forget when purchasing that taxes / import duty may apply when it 
arrives wherever you are. 

On Sunday 27 October 2024 at 03:20:54 UTC+10:30 Paul M wrote:

> While visiting the Blue Lug website it showed the current Platypus and the 
> Appaloosa framesets for sale in all sizes and colors. The price is $1,809 
> plus shipping. If you had your heart set on one of these frames and missed 
> out, then they are available at Blue Lug Global.
>
> Paul, resisting the temptation 
>

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[RBW] Re: Dropbars vs sweptback bars and saddle height

[Dan]

The Ortho bars are LONG. For me the trick has been unlocking the full 
potential of being able to move your hands back and forth along the bars as 
needs permit. 

One: I have a slight angle down. 
Two: I have them low enough so that the ends are around saddle height. 
Uncle Ron runs them even slightly lower. This is key. 
Three: I have long BMX grips (140mm) that push the levers further along the 
bars. 
Four: I have brake levers with low profile clamps (Paul) and thumb shifters 
mounted upside down. 

The combination of the above allows me to move my hands according to my 
needs. I might have my hands just behind the clamps generally, or on top of 
them if I’m going a bit faster. Climbing up hill, I grab the bars near the 
bends. At the end of the day when I’m tired or when I just want to ride 
chill, I hold the bars near the ends. Even though I’ve set them low-ish 
it’s still quite upright because of how far back they come. 

You’ll notice I didn’t mention saddle height, because I don’t think it’s 
relevant. I also think that shortening the stem might be a mistake, as it 
will lessen your ability to put down power! 

On Wednesday 13 November 2024 at 04:44:17 UTC+10:30 maxcr wrote:

> Hi Everyone,
>
> Asking for your collective advice / experience here.
>
> I recently installed a Ron's Ortho bar on my Bombadil and haven't been 
> able to dial the handlebar angle, reach and my overall posture to make it 
> comfortable on my wrists while putting me in a position where I feel like I 
> can put down enough power.
>
> For context, the 60cm Bombadil has a longer effective top tube than I'd 
> normally choose (63 vs 59) so I thought the Ortho bar would be a perfect 
> match. I initially installed it with a 135 Ritchey Force stem but ended up 
> swapping it for a Nitto 120 (I might need to go even shorter!)
>
> Anyway, this morning was very windy and I felt like I was pedaling way too 
> hard and barely moving so I stopped and tweaked some things:
>
> First I angled the bars a bit less aggressively since I had them really 
> pointing down. I also rotated the ergo grips to match my natural wrist 
> position for support.
>
> Then I lowered my saddle about 2cm and installed it pointing up a bit more 
> than before. 
>
> This got me wondering, are you supposed to lower the saddle when using 
> sweptback bars? Since your position changes and you bend your upper body 
> way less from when going from dropbars to more of a sitting position with 
> sweptback bars.
>
> It definitely feels better with the lower saddle but I'm still not as 
> comfortable on this bike as I'm on my 58 Hunqapillar with Jones H Loop 
> bars. 
>
> What else would you try? Should I try to get my saddle further back and my 
> handlebars even closer with a shorter stem? higher handlebars?  Are the 
> orthos just too wide?
>
> This whole fit thing is an enigma to me and I would love your thoughts.
>
> Max
>
>

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[RBW] Re: New to me Joe App #BofurBike Ride Report

[Dan]

Beautiful bike! I like this colour, and the wrapping you’ve done on the 
bars and stays. 
Agree that Appaloosas go so well with baskets. 
Hope you have many fun and long rides on this one!

On Thursday 31 October 2024 at 14:05:58 UTC+10:30 Nathan Mattia wrote:

> [image: IMG_7464.jpeg]
>
> I had been waiting for my chance for more than 2 years to try out a Riv 
> with the long stays and fatter tires that was designed for sweptback 
> bars, so when this one came up for a favorable price a couple months back, 
> I jumped on it.
>
>
> Riding notes so far: 
>
> 1. Rides like a Riv—in it, rather than on it. 
>
>
> 2. This is the t most comfortable bike I’ve ever ridden.   With Billie 
> Bars and thumbies, it just fits right   I had a Sam Hillborne in the same 
> 51cm size for the last 4 years.  Rigged with a long, 12 cm stem and 
> Albatross bars, it never felt quite right for me, Though many have found 
> that combo to be amazing, I was forever in-between.  Always leaning over 
> too much to grip by the stem and when I would sit back I wanted a bit more 
> bar.  
>
>
> 3. I really do like (as much as one can) the uphills on BofurBike. Could 
> it be the longer stays?  I know that I can remain seated, but the ample 
> space to grab the Billie Bars up by the stem lets me stand as well.
>
>
> 4. Now that I have the gearing dialed in and a pair of cushy switchback 
> pass tires, it’s time to go on a few more lengthy rides and see more of my 
> city.  
>
>
> 5. Feels like it was made for a Wald basket up front too.  
>
> [image: IMG_7299.jpeg]
>
>

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[RBW] FS: Lots of Parts from Shimano, Analog, Rene Herse, Suntour, White Industries, TA...

[Dan]

, too.

Trades? I'd be into guitar pedals, or for locals, a Vox amp (or some in 
that vein).

I could also use some dynamo wiring spades, wouldn't mind one of those cool 
SON coax plug adapters.

Dan
Orange County, Calif.

Now paying: AMOK by Atoms for Peace

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[RBW] Re: MKS Pretzel pedals

[Dan]

I’ve just chucked these on my Appaloosa to try out over the Gammas I 
originally had on. 
Looks wise, they are nice but not quite as nice as the Gammas, which look 
fantastic. I kinda wish I’d bought the panda ones that blue lug sells as 
it’s all a bit silver - silver with my silver cranks, but eh. Maybe one 
day. 

They feel great though with their wider platform!

On Thursday 26 September 2024 at 12:01:11 UTC+9:30 trya...@gmail.com wrote:

> These are my favorite looking and feeling pedals so far.
> On Tuesday, July 16, 2024 at 5:05:38 AM UTC-7 captaincon...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I've been riding VP pedals exclusively for over a decade, but I bought 
>> these when I built my Monstercross last Winter, and I love the subtle 
>> concave.
>>
>> On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 9:20:19 PM UTC-5 Hoch in ut wrote:
>>
>>> [image: IMG_4835.jpeg][image: IMG_4834.jpeg]I just picked these up to 
>>> replace my trusty Crank Bros Stamp pedals. I like big and wide platforms 
>>> and the Grip Kings just didn’t do it for me anymore. I’ve used Stamp pedals 
>>> for years but happened on these on Amazon. Shipped from Japan, which took a 
>>> week. 
>>> Love them so far. 
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: An attempted RoadUno reconfiguration failure

[Dan]

Have you been reading Bike Snob? He had the same skipping issue, and it 
boiled down to a worn freewheel. It went away when the freewheel was 
replaced. 
On Friday 27 September 2024 at 04:24:29 UTC+9:30 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> My first instantiation of my 58cm RoadUno was as a 14-speed, as 
> immortalized in Will's email update.  I used my wheel set which has a 
> customized 120mm O.L.D. cassette hub which fits 7 cogs from a 9 speed 
> cassette, updated with 10-speed spacers on what was traditionally a 5-speed 
> spaced rear hub.  Naturally we call it 7of9with10on5.  
>
> I had it set up that way for a Mount Diablo Summit, and having done that, 
> I wanted to reconfigure it with the stock wheels for normal city use.  I 
> put the stock Saint Jump wheels on there, with a White Industries 
> freewheel, using my Suntour rear derailleur as a tensioner.  
>
> Pics prove it:
> https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/54022678302/in/dateposted/
>
> Problem was that in the stand, the chain was wanting to rise off the cog 
> on my brand new DOS ENO freewheel.  It was worse on the 19 than the 16, but 
> clearly it wanted to rise off on both of them just pedaling.  Weird.  I 
> attributed it in part to the goopy factory lube on a brand-new SRAM 870 
> chain, and lubed it up and went to bed.  In the morning, I tried it out in 
> the stand again and it was still riding up the cog.  I went into my 
> freewheel box and found a USED White Industries single freewheel, 18T, and 
> fired that on.  In the stand, that was perfecto, and that's what is in the 
> photograph linked above.  
>
> I rode down the hill that night to the local family grocery store for 
> cilantro and few mushrooms for a soup.  Turning back up the hill, DISASTER. 
>  Under load, the same riding up and skipping was happening.  I took the 
> most shallow slope back up the 400ft hill to my house, and put the bike up 
> in the stand.  
>
> I returned the 10-speed spaced chain on there, that I had been using with 
> my 7of9with10on5 configuration, and rode that around the block.  Same 
> skipping under load.  
>
> I called it a failure and put the 7speed rear wheel back on, which is 
> still perfecto.  
>
> My top hypothesis is that in a tensioner configuration, the system wants 
> more tension from the tensioner than my 35 year old Suntour RD is 
> providing.  I may experiment with shortening the chain to the minimum 
> length for the two-speed configuration.  Some Suntour Rear Derailleurs have 
> two different holes for the spring, so one can effectively make the spring 
> a little stronger.  That would be experiment #2.  Finally, I may borrow the 
> Paul Melvin from my 3x1 Romulus, to see if that's a far better tensioner. 
>  That Romulus 3x1 drivetrain has been perfect.  For now it's a two speed, 
> but it is running on the 18T cog of a 7sp cassette.  
>
> Maybe this is all just the universe telling me to buy a purple anodized 
> Melvin?
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>

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Re: [RBW] Tics in the bars at the stem clamp - help

[Dan]

Just dropping in to say that greasing the expander wedge and bolt fixed the 
clicking I had on a quill stem bike of mine! 
It was clicking I heard when yanking on the wide bars near the ends, such 
as standing up and pedalling. It’s a singlespeed, so I used to hear that 
sound all the time…

On Thursday 3 October 2024 at 04:10:14 UTC+9:30 John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ 
wrote:

> Leah
>
> Have you considered dripping some Loctite into the sleeve and letting it 
> dry, as one of the posters suggested.  I would think Blue Loctite but you 
> might reach out to him to verify the color.
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
> On Wednesday, October 2, 2024 at 2:28:03 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> Oh, no way was I that thorough. I had no idea I should do all those 
>> things. I wiped all the old goop off so the stem was shiny and smeared 
>> around fresh lube and then pumped the stem up and down. I need a mentor!
>> Leah
>>
>> On Oct 2, 2024, at 1:44 PM, Ted Durant  wrote:
>>
>> When you say you "attacked that stem with a towel and fresh lube", does 
>> that mean you cleaned the stem, wedge, and expander bolt fully and then 
>> greased it all, reassembled, and put back in the bike? Did you also put 
>> some grease under the expander bolt at the top of the stem? Did you wipe 
>> out the inside of the steerer tube (the fork, where the stem inserts), as 
>> well?
>>
>>
>> Ted "I hate clicks and creaks" Durant
>> Milwaukee WI USA
>>
>> -- 
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>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] New Susie - Build Questions: BB Spindle and Centerlock Hubs

[Dan]

+1 on the Bitex touring rear hub from me.
I use one on my Appaloosa and it's going great so far. Looks good. I'd 
regard it as on the louder side.
Anyway I like it enough that I've ordered some more Bitex hubs for my 
upcoming Roadini build.

On Wednesday 6 November 2024 at 15:12:30 UTC+10:30 Garrett K wrote:

> Thanks for the info on the hubs. I think Analog cycles has those Bitex 
> hubs too. Velocity has a 135mm rim brake hub as well, black only and a 
> matching dynamo. I'll figure out a plan. 
>
> Good to know a 122mm bb should work. I called Riv and they said a 
> 122-123mm spindle should be good. 
>
> On Tuesday, November 5, 2024 at 6:05:15 PM UTC-8 Ed Fausto wrote:
>
>> Hi Garrett,
>> If you don't mind ordering from the UK, I bought my bottom bracket from 
>> Spa Cycles.
>> TANGE LN-3922 Bottom Bracket (for 73mm MTB Shell) 122mm
>> I installed it in my size 51 Gus Boots Wilsen together with a Riv 7 speed 
>> rear cassette to increase the clearance of the chain from the tire.
>> Here is the link.
>>
>> https://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?mode=search&search_in=mm&results_qty=50&results_order=rel&display_with_images=1&searchstr=TANGE+LN-3922+Bottom+Bracket&Submit=SEARCH
>>
>> I hope this helps.
>> Best regards,
>> Edgar Fausto
>>
>> On Wednesday, November 6, 2024 at 9:55:24 AM UTC+8 Richard Rose wrote:
>>
>>> Check out Bitex hubs. I stumbled into a set of wheels for my Gus & it 
>>> has a Bitex rear - their touring hub. It’s been performing very well & gets 
>>> recommended a lot by some highly regarded wheel builders. It is noisier 
>>> than the Deore rear hub on my Clem.
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Nov 5, 2024, at 11:18 AM, Garrett K  wrote:
>>>
>>> Hey folks. I just got a lugged Susie and am gathering parts. Couple 
>>> quick questions:
>>>
>>>
>>> 1. 73mm BB, but what spindle length with a Riv Silver 38/24 double 
>>> crankset?
>>> 122.5?
>>>
>>> 2. It's harder to find 135mm rear hubs for rim brakes these days. I 
>>> found this out when building my Toyo Atlantis. I prefer the Deore T610 
>>> hubs, but cannot find them available. Any issue running centerlock hubs for 
>>> a rim brake bike? Will probably go with the Deore M6000 rear hub and Alfine 
>>> dynamo front hub (centerlock) and lace them to Cliffhangers. 
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>> [image: IMG_2776.JPG]
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Silver Deore BR-T610 V-Brake Calipers

[Dan]

For what it's worth, I found them new at Alexs Cycle in Japan.

https://alexscycle.com/products/shimano-deore-br-t610-v-brakes-set?_pos=2&_sid=8719e2fc6&_ss=r
 

On Friday 8 November 2024 at 16:46:20 UTC+10:30 Dan wrote:

> I'd love to know where to find these too. Maybe it's time to visit my 
> local bike co-op...
>
> On Friday 8 November 2024 at 16:29:27 UTC+10:30 Daniel M wrote:
>
>> I should be more accurate and say those are my all-time favorite rim 
>> brakes. 
>>
>> DM
>>
>> On Thursday, November 7, 2024 at 9:58:24 PM UTC-8 Daniel M wrote:
>>
>>> Those are my all-time favorite V-brakes. I had them on my Sam Hillborne 
>>> and would love to have a few more pairs in my parts bin too. 
>>>
>>> Daniel M
>>> Berkeley, CA
>>>
>>> On Friday, November 1, 2024 at 9:54:26 PM UTC-7 jaredwilson wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hey group,
>>>>
>>>> So nothing materialized in the search for used Motolites so let's see 
>>>> if we can turn up a pair of silver BR-T610 calipers.
>>>>
>>>> These were standard issue on Riv builds before the pandemic so 
>>>> hopefully someone who bought a complete and upgraded will have a pair 
>>>> available.
>>>>
>>>> Please respond off list at jaredwi...@gmail.com
>>>>
>>>> Thanks :)
>>>>
>>>> jared in rainy SC, CA
>>>>
>>>> [image: Screen Shot 2024-11-01 at 9.53.30 PM.png]
>>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Silver Deore BR-T610 V-Brake Calipers

[Dan]

I'd love to know where to find these too. Maybe it's time to visit my local 
bike co-op...

On Friday 8 November 2024 at 16:29:27 UTC+10:30 Daniel M wrote:

> I should be more accurate and say those are my all-time favorite rim 
> brakes. 
>
> DM
>
> On Thursday, November 7, 2024 at 9:58:24 PM UTC-8 Daniel M wrote:
>
>> Those are my all-time favorite V-brakes. I had them on my Sam Hillborne 
>> and would love to have a few more pairs in my parts bin too. 
>>
>> Daniel M
>> Berkeley, CA
>>
>> On Friday, November 1, 2024 at 9:54:26 PM UTC-7 jaredwilson wrote:
>>
>>> Hey group,
>>>
>>> So nothing materialized in the search for used Motolites so let's see if 
>>> we can turn up a pair of silver BR-T610 calipers.
>>>
>>> These were standard issue on Riv builds before the pandemic so hopefully 
>>> someone who bought a complete and upgraded will have a pair available.
>>>
>>> Please respond off list at jaredwi...@gmail.com
>>>
>>> Thanks :)
>>>
>>> jared in rainy SC, CA
>>>
>>> [image: Screen Shot 2024-11-01 at 9.53.30 PM.png]
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell's of the UK

[Dan]

Not in the UK, but came here to say I think your bike is stunning. I think 
the Appaloosa with 50mm tyres and fenders is unstoppable!

On Tuesday, 19 November 2024 at 02:56:42 UTC+10:30 charlie...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Is anyone out there??
>
> Thought I'd start a UK Riv thread... I'm curious to know how many are 
> around. I imagine with The Woods bringing them in now they must be 
> multiplying?? It would be great to connect and who knows, maybe one day we 
> can do a meet-up and a ride?
>
> I'll start, I'm up in Stockport and got my Appaloosa at the start of the 
> year. It's such a head turner - I've never had so many comments on a bike 
> before... I took this photo when I first built the bike. It's got a lot 
> more dust and muck on it now as well as a few stickers, new brakes, saddle 
> and derailleurs, lower bars and a front basket. 
>
> [image: DSC09665.JPG]
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] The Riv low-normal derailer

[Dan]

If it looks anything like this I think it will be great. That’s quite 
classy and minimal compared to other RDs currently on the market. I mean, 
Cues and Sword look like robots!

On Sunday, 8 December 2024 at 07:12:39 UTC+10:30 Michael Connors wrote:

> [image: microshiftr10.jpg]
> Looks like it borrowed a lot from this model, with different cable pull 
> and spring attachment.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 2024 Appaloosa's - Show Us Your Builds!

[Dan]

Ooo, a rare svelte Appaloosa! Looks great actually. What is it about 
Rivendells and having a bar-swapping bug?
I think the bike suits swept-back bars (like your Billies) so well, I’m a 
little scared to change to something a bit more mountain-ish like the 
bullmoose. 

On Friday, 31 January 2025 at 04:32:55 UTC+10:30 Drew Fitchette wrote:

> Here's my Sergio Green Appa initial build:
> - 13cm Tallux with Billie Bars
> - Silver Shifters, Dura Ace FD, XTR RD
> - Paul Levers, Neo Retros and Moon Units
> - Velocity Atlas wheels from Rich with Shimano Hub/Dynamo and Edelux Light
> - RH Manastash Ridge Tires
> - 36/26 Clipper Crank with Blue Lug Guard and MKS monarchs in Champagne 
> and silver
>
> I've since swapped the bars over to a Bullmoose that I procured from 
> fellow list member Ryan. Really love how different the new bar makes the 
> bike feel. Similar to Bones, not sure if I'll throw a rack on or not. 
>

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[RBW] Re: 2024 Appaloosa's - Show Us Your Builds!

[Dan]

These Appaloosas with riser bars are making me curious!
I love the sweep backs on mine, but can’t help but feel it would ride great 
with some wide alt bars too. 

On Saturday, 14 December 2024 at 04:19:48 UTC+10:30 J J wrote:

> Drew and Bones, I'm really digging your Apps. The builds look fantastic!
>
> On Friday, December 13, 2024 at 11:20:23 AM UTC-5 Bones wrote:
>
>> Here is my latest Appaloosa. I haven’t added lights yet because I haven’t 
>> decided if I want racks.
>>
>> Bones
>>
>> On Friday, December 13, 2024 at 9:40:02 AM UTC-5 drew.jo...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> [image: Drew-6.jpeg][image: Drew-5.jpeg][image: Drew-3.jpeg]Drivetrain
>>>
>>> On Friday, December 13, 2024 at 8:10:18 AM UTC-6 drewfi...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Whoa! Looks sick Drew!

 Excited to see some photos from your first ride or two.

 I ordered the same frame from Blue Lug and gonna build it up over the 
 holiday break. Will post photos when it’s done!
 On Friday, December 13, 2024 at 8:56:20 AM UTC-5 drew.jo...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> [image: Drew-1.jpeg][image: Drew-7.jpeg]I guess I will start.
>
> Fresh outta the oven…54 Sergio.
>
> Shipped from Analog Cycles yesterday.  
>
> Merry Christmas everyone!
>
> On Friday, October 25, 2024 at 11:36:49 AM UTC-5 kiziria...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Haven't spotted a build thread for this latest batch, so show us what 
>> you got! Ana Purple or Sergio Green Appaloosa's only. 
>>
>> (p.s. May be willing to trade a 55cm Ana Purple Platy for a 54cm 
>> Purple Appaloosa :)
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Riv default 113 BB, Tange headset

[Dan]

I think this is a good change. I literally had to have the 110bb on my 
(non-lugged) Roadini swapped out for a 113 yesterday because the 110 meant 
the front derailleur was rubbing the chain in the small ring. 

On Saturday, 25 January 2025 at 01:40:54 UTC+10:30 isp...@gmail.com wrote:

> I learned from Roman at Riv that they now have 113mm BBs (*actually 
> measures 114mm with my digital calipers*) installed by their Taiwanese 
> framebuilder, along with the headsets. I learned this when inquiring about 
> my frame-only 2024 Lugged Roadini. They will not swap (or exchange) a 
> different BB at no cost... you just have to buy a different one if you need 
> a different spindle length. Perhaps this assembly spec affects other frames 
> as well.
>
> Although their cranks (and other brands) largely spec 110mm BB spindle for 
> a double, Riv's heavily pushing "skeleton key" front derailleurs that 
> require a 113mm BB spindle. So keep this in mind if you're ordering a 
> frame-only. I'll be ordering a 108mm BB to swap in, to tighten up q-factor 
> and hopefully improve upshifting on my Rene Herse double crank (10sp with 
> Ultegra chain, per RH suggestion). The BB swap is a minor inconvenience, 
> minor delay in my planned build schedule this month.
>
> Probably good news for many that their framebuilder does the Tange headset 
> installation. I wasn't too fazed doing the Tange install myself on a 
> Roaduno, but when I looked up Tange's threaded headset assembly diagram it 
> didn't even show all the parts (including ring gaskets whose up/down 
> orientation is important). I'm pretty sure I got that assembly right... 
> LOL... it feels OK when I ride/steer :-)
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 2024 Appaloosa's - Show Us Your Builds!

[Dan]

Stunning build(s) Isaak! Leisurely gravel cruises up mountains with 
singletrack on the way down - that's almost a perfect use case for this 
bike. Maybe throw in collecting a load of groceries afterwards. There's 
something about the bike with Ortho bars too. I think they were almost made 
for the bike, so long as one can find a long enough stem.
The way you've set it up in its current form (50mm tyres + fenders + rear 
rack) looks as close to a do-anything touring bike as I can imagine. If I 
ever did a long-ish tour (Italy, Japan...! One day) that's the setup I'd 
use I think. Right now I'm sticking to my 2.2s because, as you say, it's so 
fun.
Hope you have many more smiles on the bike going forwards!

On Tuesday, 24 December 2024 at 05:00:02 UTC+10:30 isaako...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Seen here in trail mode before I swapped the brooks on. Did a mighty job 
> in the snow both up and down. Something about screaming down swoopy 
> singletrack on these bars...delicious! 
>
> [image: IMG_5154.jpg]
>
> On Monday, December 23, 2024 at 10:28:36 AM UTC-8 Isaak Oliansky wrote:
>
>> I will oblige!  Howdy from Ashland, Oregon. This is my first Riv and I 
>> just adore it. It's a 57 Joe that fits my short legged long torso-ed 6'0" 
>> self quite well with a 135mm stem and rons ortho bars. Before putting a 
>> rack, 50mm gravel kings, and fenders on it, we spent some time hitting 
>> single track shod in 2.2 race kings and having a blast. The 20/34 gear 
>> spins through anything, and I find that the long wheelbase kept this 
>> planted on some gnarly climbs. I kept taking it on leisurely gravel cruises 
>> up the mountain and had an impossible time resisting taking the single 
>> track home...even made it down a black diamond trail once! 
>>
>> Build highlights are the TA zephyr 20/36 cranks (110/56 bcd! my dream! 
>> These were an Atlantis spec a decade or two ago I was told), tall and solid 
>> campy chorus headset, polished steel xtr chromoly seatpost, my first b17 in 
>> a decade (hidden under the randijo saddle cover- copper rails, brown honey 
>> leather), and fillet brazed faceplater stem. Of course there's a medium 
>> cage rapid rise xtr hanging on the back! And the cutouts on the dura ace 
>> front derailleur match the cutouts on the chainguard. Wow, I love bikes! 
>> The Nitto campee mini rack did not place nicely with the moto 
>> lites...*anyone 
>> have a compatible nitto front they wanna trade? :) *I'm trying to get my 
>> front bag out of my headtube. 
>>
>> [image: IMG_6445.jpg]
>>
>>

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[RBW] Billie / Wavie Combo Bars

[Dan]

Starting a thread to talk about the Billie / Wavie combo handlebar we have 
heard about a few times in the weekly newsletters now.
I'm imagining it as an interpolation in sweep and width between the Billies 
(70 degrees) and Wavies (35? degrees), maybe with a touch of rise like the 
Billies have. So maybe a 50 degree backsweep, fairly wide.

I love the Ortho bars I currently have on my Appaloosa, but can't help but 
wonder what the bike would feel like with other bars...

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[RBW] Re: New RBW handlebar // any guesses what it'll be?

[Dan]

Isn’t this the one he mentions that’s halfway between a Wavie bar and a 
Billie bar?

On Thursday, 6 March 2025 at 18:42:15 UTC+10:30 John Johnson wrote:

> In the last couple missives, Will mentions a new handlebar for 2025. 
> Curious if anyone has any insight on what it will be and/or any guesses or 
> wishes. Anyone know? I'm sure we'll see photos from Philly soon enough. 
>
> Cheers,
>
> John
>

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[RBW] Re: Stem reach for Noodle

[Dan]

FWIW I am running a horizontal 70mm stem with Noodles on my Roadini. Bars 
approx 2cm above saddle. 
I arrived at this by drawing up the roadini with this config in CAD and 
figuring out how to get the reach the same as my other drop bar bike with 
an angled 100mm stem and Cowchipper bars, which have significantly shorter 
reach. 
I ended up in CAD after using the stem comparison tool Garth shared but 
realising I had to take into account frame stack and reach and handlebar 
height and bar reach. 
On Tuesday, 11 March 2025 at 11:09:48 UTC+10:30 Garth wrote:

> This tool is as accurate as the inputs for comparing stem reaches and 
> heights relative to each other.
>  http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php
>
>
>
> On Monday, March 10, 2025 at 5:41:48 PM UTC-4 Jay wrote:
>
>> Even when choosing a size for my Roadini I noticed the top tube length 
>> was long than my previous road bike, but didn't really think it through all 
>> the way.  Thankfully the bars I wanted to run were short reach, and I'm 
>> using a 70mm stem; if I had wanted the Noodle bars, I don't think it would 
>> have worked.  Reach and bar height is so important for comfort.
>>
>> On Monday, March 10, 2025 at 5:31:27 PM UTC-4 Nick Payne wrote:
>>
>>> On my bikes with normal top tube lengths (including a 1998 Riv custom 
>>> and a Bleriot), I use stems around 100mm long with drop bars. On the 
>>> Appaloosa I bought in 2020, I fitted a 50mm stem to get the same reach to 
>>> the bars.
>>>
>>> Nick Payne
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: HUGE Rivendell archive update: Catalogs, flyers, brochures and more

[Dan F]

Wow, what a treat. Thank you, Eric!

On Thursday, September 2, 2021 at 1:08:47 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> I've spent the last several months scanning my collection of Rivendell 
> catalogs, flyers, ads and brochures. 
>
> Reed, who hosts the archive of Rivendell Readers at 
> http://notfine.com/rivreader/, kindly added all of my scans to the site. 
> Now there is quite a trove of Rivendell ephemera. 
>
> He created a new link (the old one still works!): 
> http://notfine.com/rivendell/
>
> Enjoy reading! All of the files are text searchable. If you have anything 
> that we haven't included please send me a DM. 
>
>
>- All 20 Rivendell catalogs
>   -  Catalogs from 1996-2018
>- Frame brochures
>   - 1995 frames mailer
>   - Atlantis and Atlantis 2
>   - Rambouillet
>   - Romulus
>   - Rivendell Frame Brochure
>   - An early frame paint chart
>   - *I'm missing the Cheviot brochure*
>- Flyers
>   - Nine flyers from 2002–2009
>   - *I'm missing Hiawatha Holidays No. 1 *
>- Ads
>   - An add for the reader from Vintage Bicycle Quarterly
>   - A 2014 Cheviot ad
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: New 57cm Roadini Frameset (Orange) + headset, 559 brakes, Nitto seatpost

[Dan Leahul]

Care to indulge further as to why the Roadini didn't work out for you? I'm
looking for one in this size, but I've never ridden one. I'm looking to
replace my aggressive fat tire road bike with something a little more chill
(and easier on the back), plus it's become mostly redundant with my
aggressive fat tire gravel bike.

Thanks,

Dan

On Mon., Jan. 9, 2023, 5:46 p.m. Andrew Turner, 
wrote:

> Pictures can be found in my FS album here.
> <https://photos.app.goo.gl/5q3GaT9EnzUh7yzt5>
> The only places where there's paint damage are the dropouts and below the
> fork crown, so nothing all that visible. This is the 2022 model that fits
> up to a 45mm tire.
>
> On Monday, January 9, 2023 at 11:33:40 AM UTC-6 alan lavine wrote:
>
>> Andrew,
>> PM sent.
>> Thanks,
>> Alan
>>
>> On Sunday, January 8, 2023 at 1:00:19 PM UTC-5 andyree...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I bought the frameset new from Riv a month ago but after 50 miles of
>>> riding I simply do not enjoy the way it rides compared to my other road
>>> bike so I'm casting this one back out. It's got the FSA headset installed
>>> with some pewter headset spacers from BlueLug, new Tektro 559 brake
>>> callipers and a new Nitto S65 300mm seatpost. There's a few paint nicks I
>>> gave it because I'm a sloppy mechanic and installing fenders was a
>>> wrestling match, but nothing serious or all that visible.
>>>
>>> I'm pretty bummed it didn't work out for me but I hope it finds a new
>>> home!
>>>
>>> Asking $1375 which will include shipping, DM if you want pics
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Andrew
>>>
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[RBW] WTB: Rosco Platypus 50cm Purple

[Dan Vee]

Hey.

Curious if anyone here might have one they are looking to sell?  Could be a
frameset or possibly a complete.

Thanks
-Dan

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Re: [RBW] Northern Hemisphere Summer Riding Photos 2023

[Dan Bluestein]

We camped at Glen but took an afternoon walk from there to Wildcat. It
helped getting a site since we were able to take off work and go on a
Monday.


On Fri, Jul 28, 2023 at 6:34 PM Piaw Na(藍俊彪)  wrote:

>
>
> On Fri, Jul 28, 2023 at 6:29 PM Dan Bluestein 
> wrote:
>
>>
>> Recently I took advantage of child #1 being off at a sleep-away camp to
>> leave my wife with only child #2 to look after and managed to get in my
>> first overnighter since I got the Homer. This was an overlapping trip to
>> the birthday ride I posted about last month, from the East Bay across the
>> bay to Point Reyes National Seashore. here are a few shots.
>>
>>
> Was this to Wildcat Campground? I've been trying to get that site for ages
> and have never had any luck!
>
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Re: [RBW] San Francisco/Bay Area Riv Riders

[Dan Bluestein]

I haven't ridden 3 Bears in a while -- if only I wasn't away this weekend. 
Next time, though!
--dan (Oakland)
On Friday, August 4, 2023 at 9:03:23 AM UTC-7 diana@gmail.com wrote:

> Anybody want to do this ride tomorrow? - 
> https://bayareabikerides.net/the-three-bears/ 
>
> Was thinking the intermediate loop 28.5 miles? Start at 9:30 am?
>
> On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 7:11:26 AM UTC-7 Diana H wrote:
>
>> I'm in Lower Haight area. Happy to jump on the Bart to meet folks. I'm 
>> riding my Platypus and happy for road and/or a little gravel. 
>>
>> Saturday might be toasty so I vote for a morning start. I'm game for 
>> anything up to ~30 miles.
>>
>> Diana
>> On Tuesday, August 1, 2023 at 11:02:54 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> You can even buy them from me! If I can find them, they're around here 
>>> somewhere. I don't live in the area anymore so don't need them, if anybody 
>>> wants to pay some kinda cash gimme a holler. 
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, August 1, 2023 at 8:04:48 PM UTC-7 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Tue, Aug 1, 2023 at 5:13 PM Diana H  wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> First time posting! I would love to meet fellow Riv riders in the Bay 
>>>>> area. Is anybody available this Saturday 8/5? I moved to the Bay area 
>>>>> recently and don't know many places to ride yet, so open to ideas! 
>>>>
>>>> I highly recommend you get yourself a copy of Roads to Ride (
>>>> https://amzn.to/3YjHJAl), and  Roads to Ride South (
>>>> https://amzn.to/3YkOlyM). They're both written by this gentleman 
>>>> called Grant Petersen. You might have heard of him.
>>>>
>>>> The books were written in the 1980s/1990s, but they're still mostly 
>>>> good and highly recommended. It's OK to buy them used. Grant told me he 
>>>> never saw any royalties from the books before the publishing company went 
>>>> under.
>>>>
>>>> Piaw
>>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Cantilevers or Direct Mount-Centerpulls

[Dan Sullivan]

That’s a beaut. Happy trails!

On Sunday, April 14, 2024 at 11:51:43 AM UTC-5 kyleco...@gmail.com wrote:

> Just an update - went with cantis! now i have to go buy the rest of the 
> bicycle...
>
> [image: bleriot.jpg]
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 28, 2024 at 5:12:14 PM UTC-8 Josiah Anderson wrote:
>
> I want to jump in here on one of my pet issues: "squishy" brakes are *not* 
> a problem provided they still stop well, and squish can be indicative of 
> good braking. If they feel stiff, all that means is that you don't have as 
> much mechanical advantage as you could, because of design or setup. If more 
> mechanical advantage is added, the pads and possibly the calipers WILL 
> squish, no matter what. It will feel "mushy" and there will be more power. 
> The best brakes I've ever used were v-brakes operated by short-pull levers, 
> which required very true wheels and felt extremely soft, but provided truly 
> impressive braking thanks to the high MA at both the lever and brake. That 
> was the setup that taught me that squishy brakes can be good. 
>
> Soft-feeling brakes also often allow for better modulation than a binary 
> "on-off" brake feeling. In a very stiff-feeling brake system, there is 
> minimal difference in braking power between just barely engaging the brake 
> and yanking as hard as you can, because the lever stops moving in a very 
> defined spot and no amount of force that human hands can apply will move it 
> farther, so the pads don't grip the rim any harder either. That is the 
> definition of a "stiff" feel; you can't get around that, only improve it 
> with more MA (and a softer brake feel). This means that the initial "bite" 
> needs to be very strong, which is the opposite of what I want from a brake. 
> I want to have control over exactly how much braking I get, from "very 
> little" to "STOP RIGHT NOW" and everywhere in between. Good centerpulls 
> absolutely can provide that, and the "squish" that you may feel is simply 
> the feeling of good modulation.
>
> However, if the "soft" feeling is from the caliper flexing (like Tektro 
> 559s do), that is not desirable, because the lever travel is just moving 
> the brake and not the pads. Those brakes have a relatively low MA (and low 
> usefulness as brakes) because if it were higher they would flex even worse. 
> Maybe this phenomenon is the root of the misunderstanding; if squishy 
> long-reach-sidepulls were the only soft-feeling brakes I'd experienced, 
> then I would probably shoot for stiffness too. 
>
> I hope that all makes sense and is helpful.
>
> Josiah Anderson
> Missoula MT
>
> On Monday, February 26, 2024 at 4:06:12 PM UTC-5 kyleco...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
> Hey Christian thanks for all your thoughts! To answer a couple of your 
> questions:
>
> *Which CPs are you considering and what is your max tire size? *
> I was looking at the Rene Herse cps. I'd be looking to run 44's, but 42's 
> seem to be more intended for the Bleriot 
> . The Rene Herse are 
> for sure pricey, and I will be spending a bit as it is with the frame 
> builder mods. However, they state they have the clearance for 42s and 
> fenders. I have a pair of dia-compe canti's 
>  
> I love on another bicycle, so much so I put a pair on my girlfriend's 
> bicycle. On that note: @Patrick - I've gotten pretty comfy now at setting 
> up canti's with drop bars. Specifically the dia-comps. It's all about 
> getting that straddle wire set up in the right position. I have done it 
> poorly on other pairs of cantis and been called out by real mechanics haha.
>
> *Will you be using fenders? *
> Potentially. I see most of these tours happening in summer and hopefully 
> some that require a flight in the nearish future. I'd probably snag a pair 
> of SKS for easy mounting and peace of mind when flying. not so much of a 
> big deal if my plastic fenders get damaged instead of banging up a nice 
> pair of honjos!
>
> *Are you planning on mounting anything to the brake studs (racks, lights 
> etc)?*
> If I did canti's I would likely get a Nitto M12 and attach it to the 
> brakes. I do plan on having low rider pannier attachments put on for a 
> nitto s rack 
> 
> .
>
>
> Kyle
>
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 26, 2024 at 12:17 PM christian poppell  
> wrote:
>
> Hey Kyle! 
>
> I have used cantilevers and direct mounted centerpulls (MAFAC RAID with 
> new Rene Herse hardware). If I could do it over I would have installed 
> cantilevers. The downsides for centerpulls for me are modulation, fender 
> fitting, and braze on locations on the fork. 
>
> Modulation - The MAFAC RAID brakes feel more squishy to me, even after 
> adding a brake booster to the rear. Also, despite my best efforts, I have 
> not been able to eliminate the howling from the rear brake. I threw 
> every