Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

2013-10-24 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Okay, So, I sent Peggie Hall a private message on "Cruisers Forum" and she 
wrote back saying she would be happy to help me design a solid system for my 
boat.  I have a phone call scheduled with her this evening!  That is pretty 
amazing that she is so willing to help a complete stranger.  She said she would 
prefer a phone call because she could transfer more information in 45 minutes 
to an hour conversation than loads of back and fourth emails. I'll share 
whatever info I get if you all are interested. Danny,Lolita1973 Viking 
33Westport Point, MA   

-- Original Message --
From: "j...@svpaws.net" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 16:35:52 -0400


Ah Are you sure about the lectrasan?  You seem to be implying that their 
use is legal in a no discharge zone? John

Sent from my iPad
On Oct 23, 2013, at 4:27 PM, "Rick Brass"  wrote:

 Did an offshore passage in a boat with a composting head, and heartily 
recommend the concept. The only downside I found to the installation I 
experienced was the need to climb up onto the head – this one was pretty 
tall.
 
I removed the holding tank on my 38 a few years ago and installed in its place 
a Lectra-San, a 9 gallon tank, and a group 24 deep cycle battery to power the 
Lectra-San and the windlass. In the past 4 years or so I’ve never had to 
worry about a pumpout or overboard discharge – though I have had to 
explain to a couple of Coasties and USCG Auxilliary folks what “No 
Discharge” means and the CG rules for a type I MSD.
 
Rick Brass
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 7:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.
 
I'm not really sure what the banana would do...  Lol

I have thought about the porta potty and then thought the composting toilet 
would have been a better idea.  I'm still not completely convinced that it 
isn't.  It is an easy install and for the amount of time we need it, it may 
well be a good solution.  However, it grossed out the admiral.  So, I'm on to 
this solution of a good holding tank design.

T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network
- Reply message -
From: "bobmor99 ." 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.
Date: Mon, Oct 21, 2013 9:51 pm
 
I'm mainly a daysailor who has so far avoided the poo issue. If I were to forgo 
my very comfortable bed and spend a night aboard Ox, I would first try to 
address the poo problem at the source - with bananas. Beyond that, I'd go Porta 
Potti and deal with it.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
 
On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 11:27 AM, djhaug...@juno.com  wrote:
Okay guys,
 
I'm planning a new waste system.  I'm going with the Raritan PHC head and a new 
holding tank.  I currently have a very old Jabsco head and a bladder holding 
tank.  I really don't like the bladder.  It has worked okay but, one day it 
will fail and it will be disgusting!  I just want rid of it...
 
I'm looking for ideas on the design.  i.e.  Where to install the tank and how 
to pipe it.  I've been reading and I was thinking to try and install about a 
16-18 gallon tank, that conforms to the hull, behind the head.  However, after 
a closer look on Saturday, I'm not sure there is enough room there.  I was kind 
of hoping to install it there in order to pipe up a gravity drain for when I'm 
in an area where that is possible.  This would also keep the hose runs very 
short and I could easily vent and pipe the pump-out fitting in the side deck 
above.
 
Of course that would have the need of piping up hill to get into the tank and 
make it a bit harder to clear the waste from the hose with every flush.  Then I 
heard it might be better to have the waste run downhill to the tank.  That 
would create the need of pumping overboard if I were in an area that allowed it 
and the need of another pump.  
 
I'm not exactly sure how the pump-out system works when having it done at a 
pump-out station.  Is it a fitting that attaches to the deck fitting and sucks 
it up the hose or, do they run a smaller hose down into the tank and suck it 
directly out with their hose?
 
Anyway,  As always, any and all advice, insights and colorful comments are 
appreciated!
 
Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA

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Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

2013-10-24 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Well, Peggie Hall is supposed to be the utmost authority on an odor free boat.  
She says the biggest cause of odor is anaerobic bacteria that thrives in an 
environment with little or no air.  Aerobic bacteria supposedly does not smell 
and, will kill off the anaerobic bacteria, needs good ventilation to thrive.  
So she recommends 2, at least 1" vents to keep the aerobic bacteria healthy and 
alive which in turn breaks down the waste without odor. Allowing your hoses to 
droop causing traps will allow waste to pool there and begin braking down.  
Again this will anaerobic breakdown and cause odor and eventually permeate the 
hoses.  It seems necessary to flush the whole thing with fresh water at least 
at the end of the day or when you're about to close up the boat for any length 
of time.  also, you really need to use sanitary hose for the water intake line. 
 I can attest to the stench you get out of those braided, clear hoses. Geeze, I 
guess I have been doing some reading on this topic...  LOL  now, lets hope it 
pays off in practice! Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Andrew Burton 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 10:27:28 -0400


Hadn't though about doing it in the cold. Good idea. Maybe I'll use a 
respirator, too!

Has anyone got thoughts on how to avoid fragrant whiffs for the vent whenever 
someone uses the head?
 AndyC&C 40Peregrine



On Thu, Oct 24, 2013 at 10:24 AM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
I changed my hoses when it was cold out. Smell is less .. impacting .. when 
it's cold. But it's harder to get the hoses off. They'll be hard to remove in 
any case. If I was doing it over again I'de use one of those multi-tools to put 
a slit in the hose end and replace the fitting if it got damaged. Would save a 
lot of frustration. Have those big heavy duty contractor grade garbage bags on 
hand. They'll contain anything
 SteveSuhana, C&C 32Toronto
 

On Thu, Oct 24, 2013 at 10:19 AM, Andrew Burton  
wrote:
Please do share. I'm replacing smelly hoses this year.AndyPeregrineC&C 40



On Thu, Oct 24, 2013 at 10:14 AM, djhaug...@juno.com  wrote:
Okay,�So, I sent Peggie Hall a private message on "Cruisers Forum" and 
she wrote back saying she would be happy to help me design a solid system for 
my boat. �I have a phone call scheduled with her this evening! 
�That is pretty amazing that she is so willing to help a complete 
stranger. �She said she would prefer a phone call because she could 
transfer more information in 45 minutes to an hour conversation than loads of 
back and fourth emails.�I'll share whatever info I get if you all are 
interested.�Danny,Lolita1973 Viking 33Westport Point, 
MA���

-- Original Message --
From: "j...@svpaws.net" 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 
16:35:52 -0400

Ah Are you sure about the lectrasan? �You seem to be implying that 
their use is legal in a no discharge zone?�John

Sent from my iPad
On Oct 23, 2013, at 4:27 PM, "Rick Brass"  wrote:

 Did an offshore passage in a boat with a composting head, and heartily 
recommend the concept. The only downside I found to the installation I 
experienced was the need to climb up onto the head � this one was pretty 
tall.
�
I removed the holding tank on my 38 a few years ago and installed in its place 
a Lectra-San, a 9 gallon tank, and a group 24 deep cycle battery to power the 
Lectra-San and the windlass. In the past 4 years or so I�ve never had to 
worry about a pumpout or overboard discharge � though I have had to 
explain to a couple of Coasties and USCG Auxilliary folks what �No 
Discharge� means and the CG rules for a type I MSD.
�
Rick Brass
�
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com

Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 7:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank 
system. 
�
I'm not really sure what the banana would do... �Lol


I have thought about the porta potty and then thought the composting toilet 
would have been a better idea. �I'm still not completely convinced that 
it isn't. �It is an easy install and for the amount of time we need it, 
it may well be a good solution. �However, it grossed out the admiral. 
�So, I'm on to this solution of a good holding tank design.
 
T-Mobile. America�s First Nationwide 4G Network 
- Reply message -
From: "bobmor99 ." 
 To: 
Subject: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.
Date: Mon, Oct 21, 2013 9:51 pm
�
I'm mainly a daysailor who has so far avoided the poo issue. If I were to forgo 
my very comfortable bed and spend a night aboard Ox, I would first try to 
address the poo problem at the source - with bananas. Beyond that, I'd go Porta 
Po

Re: Stus-List Head odors

2013-10-25 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Okay, I spoke to Peggie Hall last night and she asked; "Do you have anything 
against black hoses?"  I said, "Not really."  She said "oh good! use the 
trident 101 hoses.  I don't know of a single case where they have ever had a 
permeation issue." I guess I'm going to have black hoses...I guess I could 
paint them if the admiral has an issue with them... She also suggested a 24 
gallon tank at least.  She said, on average, a manual toilet uses .6 gal/flush 
and the average person uses the toilet at leas 5 times per day. So, at a 
minimum your putting 3 gal/day/person in the the tank.  For 2 people you get 6 
gal/day so that tank will not even last 4 days because you don't want to be 
filling it to capacity. So, we (she) decided the v-birth would be the best 
location for the new tank.  I'll be heading down to the boat with the Ronco 
catalog in hand to figure out what the biggest tank I can fit under the 
v-birth. All in all, it will be a very simple system.  Manual toilet (she said 
the Raritan PHC would have been here recommendation) to a Y valve diverting the 
waste either directly overboard or into the tank.  A 1" vent, as far forward as 
I can get it.  A pump out and potentially, a seperate fitting on the tank for a 
manual overboard tank drain with a manual pump. The project moves on. 
DannyLolita1973 Viking 33Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head odors
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 13:37:02 -0400


One word of caution - my boat's head had 1 1/4 inch discharge hose. �New 
heads are 1 1/2 inch. �Check diameters if you want to re-use Y 
valves.The Raritan hose is more expensive and more flexible. �I don't 
know if it is easier to install or more durable. � I'd like to hear 
Peggy's recommendations. �I'm not replacing the tank but am replacing 
thru hulls in the bow, so hoses need to be changed and could be reconfigured. 
�I know I want to move the discharge loop. Joel35/3Annapolis Joel

On Thu, Oct 24, 2013 at 12:46 PM, Della Barba, Joe  
wrote:
Some expensive head hose has Saran wrap material built into the hose if you are 
looking for new hose.
�
Joe Della Barba
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Rodmell
 Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2013 12:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Head odors
�
The Hinckley book on boat maintenance says to wrap the sanitary hoses in Saran 
wrap. 
 
Worth a try-- and cheap and easy.

Ken Rodmell 

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 -- 
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Re: Stus-List Head odors

2013-10-25 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
LOL...do you do that when you are in a mooring field with 100 other boats?  I 
don't. She is going by the strict standard of "no discharge" in a no discharge 
area, which is almost everywhere unless you're passage making.  I mean I can 
get to a discharge zone in like 45 minutes.  I guess you could use dumping you 
tank as a reason to go "off shore"  LOL Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "Pete Shelquist" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head odors
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 08:21:11 -0500


“Average person uses toilet 5 times a day”… is my boat the 
only one with guys peeing over the side?
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2013 7:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head odors
 
Okay,
 
I spoke to Peggie Hall last night and she asked; "Do you have anything against 
black hoses?"  I said, "Not really."  She said "oh good! use the trident 101 
hoses.  I don't know of a single case where they have ever had a permeation 
issue."
 
I guess I'm going to have black hoses...I guess I could paint them if the 
admiral has an issue with them...
 
She also suggested a 24 gallon tank at least.  She said, on average, a manual 
toilet uses .6 gal/flush and the average person uses the toilet at leas 5 times 
per day. So, at a minimum your putting 3 gal/day/person in the the tank.  For 2 
people you get 6 gal/day so that tank will not even last 4 days because you 
don't want to be filling it to capacity.
 
So, we (she) decided the v-birth would be the best location for the new tank.  
I'll be heading down to the boat with the Ronco catalog in hand to figure out 
what the biggest tank I can fit under the v-birth.
 
All in all, it will be a very simple system.  Manual toilet (she said the 
Raritan PHC would have been here recommendation) to a Y valve diverting the 
waste either directly overboard or into the tank.  A 1" vent, as far forward as 
I can get it.  A pump out and potentially, a seperate fitting on the tank for a 
manual overboard tank drain with a manual pump.
 
The project moves on.
 
Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA



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Re: Stus-List Sanitation Hose Recommendation

2013-10-25 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Peggie mentioned that lifetime waranty hose and said she would go with the 
track record over the new product.  Meaning the Trident has been tried and true 
for many years.  It is $9.92/ft. at Go2Marine.com for the black stuff.  They 
don't appear to have the white version.

-- Original Message --
From: Michael Brown 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Sanitation Hose Recommendation
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 13:48:16 -0400



   I spoke to Peggie Hall last night and she asked; "Do you have anything 
against black hoses?"  I said, "Not really."  She said "oh good! use the 
trident 101 hoses.  I don't know of a single case where they have ever had a 
permeation issue." 
I see a few choices at West Marine, Shields or Sealand brands instead of 
Trident.

1) Shields Series 101 No-Odor Super Head Hose

1 1/2" is $11.92 a foot
Warranty: One year

2) Shields Poly X Sanitation Hose

1 1/2" is $21.62 a foot
Warranty: Lifetime warranty against odor permeation

3) Sealand OdorSafe Plus Sanitation Hose

1 1/2" is $12.49 a foot
Warranty: Five-year limited warranty


For the five or six feet of hose I need ( C&C 30-1 ) the cost differential 
between the hoses is not a big issue. If the
Shields Series 101 is a recommended hose and will last another 10 years that 
would be my first choice.

I have a white hose installed, maybe 10 years old now and a small amount of 
odor is present after a few days away.


Mike Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


PS: We did a real man overboard recovery a couple of years ago returning from a 
race. The boat ahead of us lost a
crew member relieving himself. We did the stuff by the book, spotter - 
lifesling ready - depowered quick stop method
- put out the ladder. In fact it was a bit too quick. The MOB took a moment at 
the ladder, we asked if everything was
OK? He said he was putting the little admiral away. Explained how difficult it 
was trying to swim and operate a zipper
"safely" with one hand.





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Re: Stus-List A short sailing movie

2013-10-25 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Nice!!  Making me miss summer even more...

-- Original Message --
From: Peter Delean 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List A short sailing movie
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 15:16:28 -0400


Greetings listers.
 
As a Georgian Bay sailor, this time of year is always a sad time. The boat is 
hauled out, and with it a great sailing season comes to an end.  
 
This summer I purchased a nice old 1980 C&C 30 Mk1 from a fellow in Gore Bay, 
on Manitoulin Island. Getting it down to my home port in Penetanguishene 
required some decision making. Sail or trailer? (The boat did come with a 
tri-axle trailer).
 
Sailing across the vast (to me) expanse of water was daunting, and my co-pilot 
politely said she would not be joining me. Maybe she said it no so politely. 
Regardless, I decided to sail and found a partner in crime, a high school buddy 
with much chartering experience in Europe. Things worked out perfectly.
 
Ray and I left Gore Bay at 6am on a Friday morning and arrived at noon on 
Sunday in Penetanguishene. We had perfect weather, some breeze, some dead calm; 
we were attacked by hungry deer flies at one point Saturday afternoon as 
weather warmed up. We were the only boat in the middle of Georgian Bay on 
Saturday, until we dropped anchor at Beckwith Island. That was a lonely feeling.
 
The whole experience was a fantastic one, and I couldn’t resist making a 
short movie about the trip. The movie was made using Movie Maker software 
(Microsoft).
 
The photos were taken with either a Canon EOS T3, Olympus point and shoot, or 
my iPhone. I shot the video with my little Olympus on a RAM mount attached to 
the dodger hand rail. (Not HD unfortunately)
 
Clearly the best part of the video is the music. Play it loud and enjoy.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7E0QMFxa-Aw
 
Go easy on my movie making skills, this is my first stab at it.
 
C&C relevance: at Club Island we anchored beside what looks like a beautiful 
C&C 32. I’ll let the aficionado’s debate the model.
 
Hopefully the Great Lakes sailors will re-live some of last summer.
 
Peter Delean
Drifter II
C&C 30 Mk1
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Re: Stus-List New Boat

2013-10-28 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Doesn't look to bad...  Nice thing about the boat having been on the hard for 
two years, covered, is that she will be bone dry, hopefully, for the glass 
repair work! Looking at that survey, she doesn't need much.  Did he run a 
moisture meter everywhere? I don't know, I'd probably have a guy survey it for 
me, with me present.  You could learn a lot.  If you buy the boat, consider it 
a $600 introduction to the boat.  A good survey would talk about moisture 
content somewhere, especially around the cracks Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List New Boat
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2013 15:45:37 -0300


 
 I now have an accepted offer on 
 
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1986/Cs-30-2254686/Chester-Basin/Canada#.Um6d-fmsiM4
 
 
 I think I got them as low as they would go.  They started at $32000 Cdn - in 
the end we agreed to $22500.  I have to pay for the winter storage and the 
broker took $1000 decrease in fees to get the boat sold.  The seller is adamant 
that they will not lower the purchase price irrespective of new survey results. 
 
 I think it's a good deal.  I could get a similar boat for a little less in 
Boston, but shipping it back adds to the hassle and eats up much of the 
savings.  I took Mike's advice and tried to negotiate the local boat rather 
than trying to buy something 1200km away. 
 
 This boat looks great in the photos - but it's been on the hard for the last 2 
years.  Well stored, dry, under a custom cover, but it does have some issues 
that will need to be addressed.  Simple stuff like oiling the teak and 
cleaning.  Re-covering cushions.  A little bit of repair work on some wood. Few 
bigger issues - the cradle needs repair (metal so I'll likely need to get a 
welder at it), the main side windows have vertical cracks so all the plexi will 
need to be replaced. 
 Engine has been serviced regularly (and re-winterized while on the hard). 
 
 Rich had commented that I might be chasing rainbows, trying to find a boat 
that could do everything for me but not spend any money.  We didn't get out for 
a beer yet, but I did take his advice and move my purchase price up so I could 
get a better condition boat rather than searching for the super bargain.  I 
think size wise this boat gives me enough room to enjoy with the family, but 
still small enough to keep the work load and costs manageable. 
 
 Recent survey is attached.  My question - would you re-survey the boat?  The 
survey seems rather superficial - maybe just done for insurance purposes? Boat 
has not been in the water since the survey. 
 
 I spent about 75min crawling around the boat with the broker. Tapped at the 
deck with the handle of a screwdriver, plus used my cdn tire moisture meter - 
sounded ok to me (no dead spots), the moisture meter picked up a couple areas 
that were slightly higher than others (25% vs 16-18% I  think). 
 Hull and deck looked good - even with no deformations.  Engine had a bit of 
surface rust. 
 Few interior stains on woodwork - but all looked/felt solid. 
 
 I'm planning on heading back down myself to dig through the sails in the 
storage locker and the other gear before we finalize - but I'm not sure if I 
should do a new survey. 
 
 BTW - thanks for all the help getting to this point.  I've learned a lot from 
watching the discussions going back and forth and I've saved multiple email 
threads in preparation for things like re-plumbing my head etc. 
 Even if I end up with the CS, I will likely continue to lurk on this list - 
too much good info to pass it up. 
 
 Mark 
 
 
 -
CONDITIONAL SURVEY
 
VESSEL: “SEA FEVER”
 
March 2012
 
 At the request of the Owner I carried out a Conditional Survey on the C.S. 30 
Fibreglass Sloop “Sea Fever”.
 The vessel is in winter storage at Gold River Marina and the steering wheel, 
the electronics, batteries and life saving equipment have been removed from the 
vessel and retained by the Owner. 
 
Underwater Hull – Generally in good condition with the following defects:
Starboard Side
 The fibreglass along the hull to keel joint is cracked. The cracking is not 
into the hull and is not considered significant. It has had a recent repair but 
should be reworked. 
 The strut for the propeller shaft has cracking around the hull connection and 
the filling has worked loose. 
Port Side
 The fibreglass along the hull to keel joint is cracked. The cracking is not 
into the hull and is not considered significant. 
 The strut for the propeller shaft has cracking around the hull connection and 
the filling has worked loose. 
 There are a few places where the glass covering on the keel have worn through 
and the lead keel is exposed. 
 There are 2 small knicks in the fibreglass on the transom. 
Antifouling
 Antifouling should be re-coated. 
Rudder
Good condition but some fibreglass cracking aroundthe pintle bearing. 
 
2
Propellor & Shaft
Good condition overall. 
 
Topsides
 The topsid

Re: Stus-List Sanitation Hose Recommendation

2013-10-28 Thread djhaug...@juno.com

"I take it the "no 90deg bends" means no use ofa 90deg elbow. Does two 45 deg 
elbows and a short section between them work?" To play it safe you could always 
use the 2-45s and put a short piece of flexible pipe in between.  However you 
might be better off just making the whole turn with flexible tubing.  PVC can 
get more and more brittle over time and becomes very brittle in cold weather.  
I think you have to deal with 90 degree turns as though they are a more fixed 
connection.
Danny___
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Re: Stus-List New Boat

2013-10-29 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Yea, what Marek said...!

-- Original Message --
From: "Marek Dziedzic" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Boat
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2013 08:53:16 -0400


Mark, I add my voice to the chorus recommending a survey. I know how it feels 
when you are spending over $20k on a boat and suddenly everyone starts asking 
for $200 here and $500 there (I bought a new(er) boat last year). But that $600 
will be money well spent. It will either show that most of the things are fine 
(and you will be happy about it) or it will unearth some major problems and you 
will be happy to walk away. You win, either way. Having gone through the steps 
over the last 12 months I suggest you include in your calculations additional 
$5-7k for various repairs and additions: - a few $k ($2-3k) for the bottom 
repairs (unless you can do it yourself)- another $1-2k for instruments- about 
$2-3k for the new sails- additional $1k for miscellaneous additions, repairs, 
supplies, spares etc. Not all of the above has to happen at once, but plan for 
it (we can talk in a year how this worked out for you). Good luck and 
congratulations Marek (in Ottawa) ___
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Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system

2013-10-29 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Well, I went down to the boat on Saturday to get the frame up for the cover.  I 
looked around a bit more and realized just how little room there is up in the 
V-birth. It seems, in order to get a tank up there, I'm going to be doing some 
cutting.  There is a drawer and cubby on each side where the removable piece 
comes out.  I don't really want to lose those and if I did take the one right 
up against the bulkhead to the head, it is so small that I would not only have 
to cut the bed platform for access, I'd have to hack out the bulkhead below the 
platform to get anywhere near and adequate sized tank. So, that leaves the 
center storage area below the V-birth.  This would entail having to open the 
platform in order drop a tank in there.  The access hatch is way too small to 
get a tank through.  This also creates a longer hose run from the toilet and 
back to the through hull. I could put the tank back where the bladder is now.  
Which is under the "L" shaped settee just aft of the head.  This is probably 
the most convenient location.  Which is why the bladder is there now. I'm not 
really sure how Big a tank I can get in there but I think that is where I'll 
end up putting it.  I can't really see any reason not to put it there really.  
Short hose runs,  close to the existing pump out.  I was kind of hoping to add 
some more water storage there. Any ideas or insight, as always, will be greatly 
appreciated. Thanks,Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Paul Fountain 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 12:09:49 -0400


Marek,
 
Check with Paynes in Burlington, they carry the hoses – but are strictly 
a wholesaler – they will have a local retailer who can order for you 
– in the Burlington/Oakville area I use Dockside Marine – I am sure 
James would ship to you if you wantd.
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic
Sent: October-24-13 11:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system
 
Steve,
 
where did you source the replacement hoses (in Canada)? From what I know you 
should use only the very specific type (all others permeate the smell in 3-4 
months)
 
Marek 
in Ottawa
 
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 10:24:40 -0400
From: Stevan Plavsa 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

I changed my hoses when it was cold out. Smell is less .. impacting .. when
it's cold. But it's harder to get the hoses off. They'll be hard to remove
in any case. If I was doing it over again I'de use one of those multi-tools
to put a slit in the hose end and replace the fitting if it got damaged.
Would save a lot of frustration.

Have those big heavy duty contractor grade garbage bags on hand. They'll
contain anything

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List 1972 35 for sale near Baltimore

2013-10-29 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
oh boy, sounds like their is a deeper story here...  way too much bling for 
$8KSoft decks?  needs a new keel?   New Cushions throughout would be $2500 - 
$3500 on there own. The vinyl (vinal) teak and holly sole kinda scares me.  I 
saw this at the boat show.  reminded me of the peel and stick cheapo rental 
property tiles that are typically used to hide something.  I guess good old 
boat just did a favorable article on this stuff though.  so, my opinion is just 
that, completely subjective. New diesel fuel, or a new diesel engine?   I'm 
curious...  LOL Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "Dennis C." 
To: CnClist 
Subject: Stus-List 1972 35 for sale near Baltimore
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2013 06:17:39 -0700 (PDT)


http://southjersey.craigslist.org/boa/4071917706.html___
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Re: Stus-List 1972 35 for sale near Baltimore

2013-10-29 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
could be abandoned at the yard and they are trying to recoup their losses?

-- Original Message --
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1972 35 for sale near Baltimore
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2013 10:35:18 -0400


My boat must be worth $29.95 at most then L
 
1972 C&C sailboat 35ft NEW DEISEL, fuel tank and gauges
$8,000-$12,000 here.
 
, cushions redone,
$2,000-$,5000 here.
 
 
 
 head, holding tank new, all new wiring, hatch AC, new vinal teak holly sole 
floor, sails main jib 110, 130, 160. Bottom done in spring, boot stripe done in 
spring. Port lights rebedded last fall by marina. Must see. Call me daytime @ 
609-743-7172
 
Not clear on the sails as to age or condition. This boat is selling for barely 
twice the scrap value of the lead with a frigging new diesel? Excuse me 
while I get depressed.
Just remembered I had a fantastic sail home from the club Sunday. Happier now J
 
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2013 10:15 AM
To: capt...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1972 35 for sale near Baltimore
 
oh boy, sounds like their is a deeper story here...  way too much bling for 
$8K
Soft decks?  needs a new keel?  
 
New Cushions throughout would be $2500 - $3500 on there own.
 
The vinyl (vinal) teak and holly sole kinda scares me.  I saw this at the boat 
show.  reminded me of the peel and stick cheapo rental property tiles that are 
typically used to hide something.  I guess good old boat just did a favorable 
article on this stuff though.  so, my opinion is just that, completely 
subjective.
 
New diesel fuel, or a new diesel engine?  
 
I'm curious...  LOL
 
Danny


-- Original Message --
From: "Dennis C." 
To: CnClist 
Subject: Stus-List 1972 35 for sale near Baltimore
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2013 06:17:39 -0700 (PDT)
http://southjersey.craigslist.org/boa/4071917706.html
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Re: Stus-List 1972 35 for sale near Baltimore

2013-10-29 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
lol...well played...

-- Original Message --
From: "Bill Coleman" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1972 35 for sale near Baltimore
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2013 11:22:50 -0400


V Berth (Birth) Forgive me, Danny, and don’t hit me. Smiley face. 
Whatever.
 
Bill Coleman
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
 Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2013 10:15 AM
 To: capt...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 1972 35 for sale near Baltimore
 
oh boy, sounds like their is a deeper story here...  way too much bling for 
$8K
Soft decks?  needs a new keel?  
 
New Cushions throughout would be $2500 - $3500 on there own.
 
The vinyl (vinal) teak and holly sole kinda scares me.  I saw this at the boat 
show.  reminded me of the peel and stick cheapo rental property tiles that are 
typically used to hide something.  I guess good old boat just did a favorable 
article on this stuff though.  so, my opinion is just that, completely 
subjective.
 
New diesel fuel, or a new diesel engine?  
 
I'm curious...  LOL
 
Danny

 
 -- Original Message --
 From: "Dennis C." 
 To: CnClist 
 Subject: Stus-List 1972 35 for sale near Baltimore
 Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2013 06:17:39 -0700 (PDT)
http://southjersey.craigslist.org/boa/4071917706.html
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Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system

2013-10-29 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
No, it is one large piece tabbed to the hull.  It has just the one hatch for 
access. my boat has a "V-birth!"  it gives life to it's (its) inhabitants each 
morning! Imagine what it could give birth to if I really do get the holding 
tank there... Danny  

-- Original Message --
From: "Dennis C." 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2013 12:26:59 -0500


Danny, Is the platform under the v-berth cushions screwed down?  If so, take it 
up, install the tank and replace it.  Dennis C. 

Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 29, 2013, at 9:05 AM, "djhaug...@juno.com"  wrote:

Well, I went down to the boat on Saturday to get the frame up for the cover.  I 
looked around a bit more and realized just how little room there is up in the 
V-birth. It seems, in order to get a tank up there, I'm going to be doing some 
cutting.  There is a drawer and cubby on each side where the removable piece 
comes out.  I don't really want to lose those and if I did take the one right 
up against the bulkhead to the head, it is so small that I would not only have 
to cut the bed platform for access, I'd have to hack out the bulkhead below the 
platform to get anywhere near and adequate sized tank. So, that leaves the 
center storage area below the V-birth.  This would entail having to open the 
platform in order drop a tank in there.  The access hatch is way too small to 
get a tank through.  This also creates a longer hose run from the toilet and 
back to the through hull. I could put the tank back where the bladder is now.  
Which is under the "L" shaped settee just aft of the head.  This is probably 
the most convenient location.  Which is why the bladder is there now. I'm not 
really sure how Big a tank I can get in there but I think that is where I'll 
end up putting it.  I can't really see any reason not to put it there really.  
Short hose runs,  close to the existing pump out.  I was kind of hoping to add 
some more water storage there. Any ideas or insight, as always, will be greatly 
appreciated. Thanks,Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Paul Fountain 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 12:09:49 -0400

 
Marek,
 
Check with Paynes in Burlington, they carry the hoses – but are strictly 
a wholesaler – they will have a local retailer who can order for you 
– in the Burlington/Oakville area I use Dockside Marine – I am sure 
James would ship to you if you wantd.
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic
Sent: October-24-13 11:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system
 
Steve,
 
where did you source the replacement hoses (in Canada)? From what I know you 
should use only the very specific type (all others permeate the smell in 3-4 
months)
 
Marek 
in Ottawa
 
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 10:24:40 -0400
From: Stevan Plavsa 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

I changed my hoses when it was cold out. Smell is less .. impacting .. when
it's cold. But it's harder to get the hoses off. They'll be hard to remove
in any case. If I was doing it over again I'de use one of those multi-tools
to put a slit in the hose end and replace the fitting if it got damaged.
Would save a lot of frustration.

Have those big heavy duty contractor grade garbage bags on hand. They'll
contain anything

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
___
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Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system

2013-10-29 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Dennis, Thanks!  Do you think this is preferable to the current location of the 
bladder tank? There is actually a thru hull I was planning on getting rid of 
under the starboard settee.  It is a transducer of some ancient equipment long 
abandoned.  I guess, as a pro, I could run a hose from the tank to that thru 
hull for possible dumping. That way, I could have a wye valve for direct 
discharge or tank flushing and then not need a wye valve for pumping/dumping.  
2- connections on the tank.  I may even be able to pull off a gravity drain as 
the tank will be a little higher than the through-hull.  I would have to have 
the outlet at the bottom of the tank for that, and that does worry me some.  I 
could always mount a manual pump I guess... The only biggest con I see is that 
the toilet will actually be pumping uphill to the tank and will require more 
fresh water to clear the hose all the way to the tank, filling the tank faster. 
am I seeing things correctly? Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "Dennis C." 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2013 13:24:25 -0500


Danny, I just got on Touché and looked at the platform. Yup, it's part of the 
interior pan.  Plan B - cut out the platform above the center storage. Use a 
jigsaw or a multimax vibrating saw. Drop in the tank. Put the cutout back by 
letting it rest on new wooden cleats under the cut. Just like the access panel 
except screwed down.  Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 29, 2013, at 12:47 PM, "djhaug...@juno.com"  wrote:

No, it is one large piece tabbed to the hull.  It has just the one hatch for 
access. my boat has a "V-birth!"  it gives life to it's (its) inhabitants each 
morning! Imagine what it could give birth to if I really do get the holding 
tank there... Danny  

-- Original Message --
From: "Dennis C." 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2013 12:26:59 -0500

 
Danny, Is the platform under the v-berth cushions screwed down?  If so, take it 
up, install the tank and replace it.  Dennis C. 

Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 29, 2013, at 9:05 AM, "djhaug...@juno.com"  wrote:

Well, I went down to the boat on Saturday to get the frame up for the cover.  I 
looked around a bit more and realized just how little room there is up in the 
V-birth. It seems, in order to get a tank up there, I'm going to be doing some 
cutting.  There is a drawer and cubby on each side where the removable piece 
comes out.  I don't really want to lose those and if I did take the one right 
up against the bulkhead to the head, it is so small that I would not only have 
to cut the bed platform for access, I'd have to hack out the bulkhead below the 
platform to get anywhere near and adequate sized tank. So, that leaves the 
center storage area below the V-birth.  This would entail having to open the 
platform in order drop a tank in there.  The access hatch is way too small to 
get a tank through.  This also creates a longer hose run from the toilet and 
back to the through hull. I could put the tank back where the bladder is now.  
Which is under the "L" shaped settee just aft of the head.  This is probably 
the most convenient location.  Which is why the bladder is there now. I'm not 
really sure how Big a tank I can get in there but I think that is where I'll 
end up putting it.  I can't really see any reason not to put it there really.  
Short hose runs,  close to the existing pump out.  I was kind of hoping to add 
some more water storage there. Any ideas or insight, as always, will be greatly 
appreciated. Thanks,Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Paul Fountain 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 12:09:49 -0400

 
Marek,
 
Check with Paynes in Burlington, they carry the hoses – but are strictly 
a wholesaler – they will have a local retailer who can order for you 
– in the Burlington/Oakville area I use Dockside Marine – I am sure 
James would ship to you if you wantd.
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic
Sent: October-24-13 11:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system
 
Steve,
 
where did you source the replacement hoses (in Canada)? From what I know you 
should use only the very specific type (all others permeate the smell in 3-4 
months)
 
Marek 
in Ottawa
 
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 10:24:40 -0400
From: Stevan Plavsa 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

I changed my hoses when it was cold out. Smell is less .. impacting .. when
it's cold. But it's harder to get the hoses 

Re: Stus-List New Boat

2013-10-30 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Hi Mark, I wouldn't worry too much about the hold back.   They probably are a 
little disappointed at the price.  I wouldn't take that personally.  At least 
you can still walk if you don't like something you see.  You'll get a lot of 
insight from the survey.  Bring a notebook and get one of those head lamps!  
This is all stuff I Wish I did during my survey.  I was so excited and full of 
wonder I didn't pay near close enough attention.  LOL  talk about a kid in a 
candy shop! I wish you all the best with the rest of the process!  I'm excited 
for you!!  LOL  Thanks for sharing the whole thing!  I keep looking for your 
emails with anticipation!! Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Boat
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 02:37:40 -0300



 Ok. Thanks for all the advice.
 
 With my initial offer I had asked for a $2000 holdback to make sure the engine 
was running in the spring --- but with the final counter from the seller they 
are saying "no holdback and no adjustments to purchase price" -- I get the 
impression they a rather upset I pushed them so low.  I figure they could have 
simply refused, and waited another year
 That said - they are treating this like an "as is, where is" sale now - and 
don't seem interested in any further negotiations about holdbacks etc.
 
 I talked to the mechanic that has worked on the engine the last 5-7 yrs today. 
 I'm hoping to have him out to the boat on Sunday to start it up, run it a bit 
and then re-winterize it - give me as much of an "all clear" as he can.
 He said he has had only minor issues with this motor over the years - a small 
leak that has been fixed with new o-rings, a new starter.  That said he is not 
a big fan of Volvo diesels - feels the parts are too expensive and the motor is 
not as solid as a Yanmar - but that this particular boat has not had any sig 
problems.
 
 My insurance has accepted the existing survey on the boat.  But I think I'll 
take the recommendations and go ahead with a full survey myself - at least that 
will give me the start of a "to do" list for the boat.
 
 As for the "cracks" noted on the keel - I saw them when I looked at the boat.  
Tiny cracks along the keel/hull joint -- small enough I bet they'd fill with a 
coat or 2 of bottom paint.  Looks like a little bit of filler or caulk fell out.
 
 Mark
-  Dr. Mark BodnarB.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)Bedford 
Chiropracticwww.bedfordchiro.ca-There is no cure for birth 
and death save to enjoy the interval.  - George SantayanaOn 28/10/2013 3:45 PM, 
Dr. Mark Bodnar wrote:
 
 I now have an accepted offer on 
 
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1986/Cs-30-2254686/Chester-Basin/Canada#.Um6d-fmsiM4
 
 
 I think I got them as low as they would go.  They started at $32000 Cdn - in 
the end we agreed to $22500.  I have to pay for the winter storage and the 
broker took $1000 decrease in fees to get the boat sold.  The seller is adamant 
that they will not lower the purchase price irrespective of new survey results. 
 
 I think it's a good deal.  I could get a similar boat for a little less in 
Boston, but shipping it back adds to the hassle and eats up much of the 
savings.  I took Mike's advice and tried to negotiate the local boat rather 
than trying to buy something 1200km away. 
 
 This boat looks great in the photos - but it's been on the hard for the last 2 
years.  Well stored, dry, under a custom cover, but it does have some issues 
that will need to be addressed.  Simple stuff like oiling the teak and 
cleaning.  Re-covering cushions.  A little bit of repair work on some wood. Few 
bigger issues - the cradle needs repair (metal so I'll likely need to get a 
welder at it), the main side windows have vertical cracks so all the plexi will 
need to be replaced. 
 Engine has been serviced regularly (and re-winterized while on the hard). 
 
 Rich had commented that I might be chasing rainbows, trying to find a boat 
that could do everything for me but not spend any money.  We didn't get out for 
a beer yet, but I did take his advice and move my purchase price up so I could 
get a better condition boat rather than searching for the super bargain.  I 
think size wise this boat gives me enough room to enjoy with the family, but 
still small enough to keep the work load and costs manageable. 
 
 Recent survey is attached.  My question - would you re-survey the boat?  The 
survey seems rather superficial - maybe just done for insurance purposes? Boat 
has not been in the water since the survey. 
 
 I spent about 75min crawling around the boat with the broker. Tapped at the 
deck with the handle of a screwdriver, plus used my cdn tire moisture meter - 
sounded ok to me (no dead spots), the moisture meter picked up a couple areas 
that were slightly higher than others (25% vs 16-18% I  think). 
 Hull and deck looked good - even with no deformations.  Engine had a bit of 
surface rus

Re: Stus-List New Boat

2013-10-30 Thread djhaug...@juno.com


Mark said:  
AMEN to that brother!  and you can buy insurance for the boat... ___
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Stus-List Rudder Bearing

2013-10-31 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Hey,

Has anyone got any advise or insights on replacing a rudder bearing?

Mine is a bit too sloppy for my liking.  is this huge PITA?

What would be the steps to doing a good repair/maintenance vs what the yard 
might do.

I guess if it isn't actually broke yet, it would be considered preventative 
maintenance, right?

I've already lost steering once and really don't want to experience that again.

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA







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Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing

2013-10-31 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Bob, really??  That sounds pretty easy. just get the right size or a little 
bigger OD and bore a hole? I guess I could bring that into a machine shop... Is 
the rudder just held in by the pin at the top?  Is the rudder very heavy? Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "Bob Hickson" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Rudder bearing
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 14:43:53 -0400


My previous boat was a little brother to yours – 1974 Viking 28.
I dropped the rudder. There are plastic insert bushings at the top and bottom 
end of the rudder tube that easily slide out.
My son machined 2 new bushings from a piece of Delrin rod  worked great 
 problem solved
 
Best regards,
Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA
C&C 29-2 Flying Colours
Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club
Pickering, ON
(416) 919-2297
bobhick...@rogers.com
 
 __/) 
 
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Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing

2013-10-31 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
"what, it's the first hole I dug?"

the 33 came with a tiller too.  Mine was converted over to a wheel but, the 
tiller fitting is still there.

I guess I should commandeer a couple people to help drop that rudder.

Danny


-- Original Message --
From: "Bob Hickson" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Rudder bearing
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 20:01:06 -0400



I had to dig a hole about 18" deep to drop the rudder out of my V28. It was
very heavyrudder shaft is solid stainless. It was held in by a single
pin through the top of the rudder shaft and the tiller fitting (V28 had a
tiller not a wheel) 


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 19:04:45 GMT
From: "djhaug...@juno.com" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing
Message-ID: <20131031.150445.3202...@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Bob, really??  That sounds pretty easy. just get the right size or a little
bigger OD and bore a hole? I guess I could bring that into a machine shop...
Is the rudder just held in by the pin at the top?  Is the rudder very heavy?
Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "Bob Hickson" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Rudder bearing
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 14:43:53 -0400


My previous boat was a little brother to yours – 1974 Viking 28.
I dropped the rudder. There are plastic insert bushings at the top and
bottom end of the rudder tube that easily slide out.
My son machined 2 new bushings from a piece of Delrin rod  worked great
 problem solved
 
Best regards,
Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA
C&C 29-2 Flying Colours
Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club
Pickering, ON
(416) 919-2297
bobhick...@rogers.com
 
 __/) 
 


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Re: Stus-List Getting young people into sailing?

2013-11-01 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
 I didn't really start sailing until 2008 in my, ehhh hem,  early 40s.  
However, I was taken sailing a total of about 4 times during the course of my 
life.   I grew up on power boats on long island sound.  We would go fishing and 
camping on the islands off of Norwalk CT,  lots of water skiing and 
kneeboarding and rafting up hand floating for days, heading over to northport 
LI for drinks or dinner or trying to chat up the big haired long island girls 
of the 80s.  But, I always would stop and watch the sailboats go by.  Always 
fascinated by them!  ...and I always knew, if a sailboat has enough water, 
there's plenty of water there for my runabouts and speed boats. Then the the 
89-90 recession hit and I ended up in college in Bristol, RI.  Every day I 
would drive home, past the Lobster pot and I would come up on that "L" curve 
and see that same sailboat, on its mooring, floating so serenely.  I knew then 
that "someday" I would have a sailboat.  I would drag friends, date, nieces, 
nephews, anyone I could commandeer to boat shows with me and climb around on 
the new boats dreaming of "the day" that would actually have one.  Of course, 
then my dream was to get one and live on it and never look back.  That hasn't 
worked out quite yet. Then, "someday" came when, a buddy gave me a 1979 O'Day 
22!  and so it began!  that free boat cost me about $8K to get her in great 
shape.  I sold it for $4700  LOL  that was a good investment!  what was that 
someone said about not too many dummies...?  LOL And now, here I am annoying 
you guys about my 1973 Viking 33!  aren't you the lucky ones??!!  ain't life 
grand!? Danny___
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Re: Stus-List Buld File

2013-11-01 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Thats awful...

-- Original Message --
From: "Richard N. Bush" 
To: kenhea...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Buld File
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2013 11:11:42 -0400 (EDT)

I just spoke with Rob McLaughlin of South Shore; he told they threw them in the 
dump because that were of no use to him and proceeded to tell me how worthless 
they were; I asked why he didn't give them to the Great Lakes museum... he 
would not answer me...
  I am thoroughly disgusted that he would do such a thing;  Ugggh!

  Richard1987 33-II 
 Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
 Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
 502-584-7255
 

-Original Message-
 From: Ken Heaton 
 To: cnc-list 
 Sent: Thu, Oct 31, 2013 5:21 pm
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Buld File
 
Try: serv...@southshoreyachts.com or sa...@southshoreyachts.com
 http://southshoreyachts.com/Contact UsHave questions for us? We invite you to 
contact South Shore Yachts using any of the following methods. 
 
 South Shore Yachts
 1544 Four Mile Creek Road
 Virgil, Ontario, Canada | L0S1T0
 Toll Free 1 866 628-4080
 Local 905 468-4340
Fax 905 468-1538Hours of OperationMonday to Friday | 9am to 5pm
 Saturday and Sunday | By Appointment 
 
 Rob MacLachlan | Owner/Sales
 Cody Montgomery | Service
 
On 31 October 2013 17:24, Richard N. Bush  wrote:
>From whom would one order the build file?  Many thanks   
 
Richard1987 33-II
 Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
 Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
 502-584-7255
 
___This List is provided by the C&C 
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 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List Training weather?

2013-11-01 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
where will you be sailing?

I wanna come!!!


-- Original Message --
From: "dwight" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Training weather?
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2013 16:49:01 -0300

It is easier to change up to more sail in lighter conditions than it is to
change down to less sail in heavier conditions...your boat, a 30 MKI I
think, is stiff and can handle a full main and No.2 (130-135) headsail but
if the wind gets to 20 kts true you will do just as well on a beat with a
110 and maybe the first reef in the main.  I think you said you had very
little sailing experience altogether and less in heavy winds on your boat so
with that background on a beat you might consider starting with the No.3
(110%) and a reefed main, then shake the reef if you feel you want more
power and for more power yet change to one of your larger headsails...off
the wind even at 20 kts true you will love the full main and No. 1 headsail
(150%)...fast fast fast

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: November 1, 2013 4:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Training weather?

Thanks, I was hoping for this kind of feed back. I was not sure on the
reefing 1 or 2 I do have both. I dont want to cause trouble if its to
much I want to be conservitive. But I do want to push the boat to hull
speed.
Thanks again


On 11/1/13, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> Curtis - based on my seven years' experience on my 30mkI on Lake Superior,
> if you start looking at above 15kts, I'd probably go with the 135, with at
> least one reef in the main (two if you've got 'em) and see how the boat
> handles things.  If it feels over-powered, it probably IS over-powered.
If
> the boat seems to be struggling, you could move down to the 110; but
usually
> a decently sized headsail and reefs in the main as a first step will work.
> FWIW. this advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.   :^)
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Nov 1, 2013, at 2:12 PM, Curtis  wrote:
>
>> I'm kind of new at the big boat thing. I have owned it for 2 years now
>> and have had some great days sailing but no with any wind really. Well
>> this weekend will offer a cold front with some good wind to practice
>> in
>> Here is what the weather man is calling for.
>>
>> Sat
>> NW winds 15 to 20 kt. Seas 4 to 6 ft...subsiding to 3 to 4 ft in the
>> afternoon. A chance of showers...mainly in the morning.
>> Sat Night
>> NW winds 10 to 15 kt...increasing to 15 to 20 kt after midnight. Seas
>> 3 to 4 ft.
>> Sun
>> N winds 15 to 20 kt. Seas 3 to 4 ft.
>> Sun Night
>> NE winds 15 to 20 kt. Seas 3 to 4 ft...building to 4 to 5 ft after
>> midnight.
>> Do you think I would need to reef in this weather?  Like I said I have
>> had plenty of days in 8 to sa 14 knots of wind.  So what's your
>> recommendation to a newby in this weather?
>>
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Keep in mind my sail inventory
>> 1) Working head 110% sail with 2 reef points.
>> 2) Working Main sail
>> 3) Racing main sail
>> 3) 135% Genoa
>> 4) 155% Genoa
>> 5) 170% drifter
>> 6) asymmetrical kite with sock.
>>
>> Thanks again for your help. I need anybody's specific advice on how
>> the C&C 30 MK1 handles this kind of air.
>>
>>
>> --
>> "Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
>> should really be running the world." - Nicholas Monsarrat
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
"Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world." - Nicholas Monsarrat

___
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Re: Stus-List New boat - CS30

2013-11-04 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Mark, I'm very happy for you!  Congrats on your quest closing in on its finish! 
  Best of luck finishing the deal and getting her home! Keep in mind, the 
insurance company may still require a survey.  I had mine surveyed for myself 
before purchase and the insurance company asked for it to be updated before 
they would cover Lolita. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New boat - CS30
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2013 13:19:26 -0400



 Bob,
 Had mechanic out looking at the engine - he checked motor mounts for me and 
said all looked good.  Also commented that the engine was running pretty 
smoothly.
 Don't think the holding tank was lost to damage - I don't think it ever got 
put in.  I was figuring the replacement would be $1000.
 
 As for the cracks.  I admit that I'm not a pro - but I don't think they get 
deep enough into the stringer to be a major issue - you could get a fingernail 
into the top gap and that would only be 2-3mm deep.  At this point I'm not 
likely going to hire a surveyor.  My gut is that the boat is in good shape, and 
that this issue is quite repairable.  Even if the damaged laminate is 5x what I 
can see from the outside I'm guessing a professional repair would be a couple 
grand - but I have some fiberglassing experience myself and I'll likely just do 
it.
 
 Again, thanks for all the advice from everyone.  
 While I might not choose the recommended path, all the feedback helps orient 
me and gets me going in the right direction.
 
 Mark
-  Dr. Mark BodnarB.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)Bedford 
Chiropracticwww.bedfordchiro.ca-There is no cure for birth 
and death save to enjoy the interval.  - George SantayanaOn 04/11/2013 12:04 
PM, Bob Hickson wrote:I was at the boat yard yesterday and ended up talking 
with a good friend that has owned a CS 30 for many years….
>He told the story of another CS30 that had been grounded. The “egg 
>crate” structure above the keel was cracked and damaged (not sure how 
>bad it was or how it compares to the boat that you saw). A professional repair 
>job for the damage to this boat was $20,000 several years ago.
>He was also aware of another CS30 where the owner did not pump the holding 
>tank in the fall. Tank froze and split (maybe what happened to your boat???). 
>Cost to replace the tank was somewhere around $1,000
>His boat and another 2 CS30’s that he keeps in touch with have all 
>developed problems with motor mounts. Symptoms are excess vibration while 
>motoring. He has realigned the engine and will replace motor mounts over the 
>winter. A friend ignored the vibration and ended up destroying the 
>transmission …. Read big $$$. Do not ignore excess vibration from the 
>engine….an engine alignment and new mounts are much less costly than a 
>new transmission
 
The CS30 is a great boat in his opinion. Fast and sea worthy. Slightly more 
tender than most C&C’s. He loves the boat.
As other lister’s have said, your boat seems like a decent deal. However, 
you need to be aware that there will be costs associated with putting it back 
in “Bristol Condition”.
My only reservation about buying it is the damage from the grounding. Is the 
damage minor and you can repair the cracks yourself or is there serious 
structural damage with a $20,000 repair required.
I would strongly advise you to have a qualified surveyor / experienced boat 
yard inspect the hull damage to clarify this issue
 
Best regards,
Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA
C&C 29-2 Flying Colours
Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club
Pickering, ON
(416) 919-2297
bobhick...@rogers.com
 
 __/) 
 


___This List is provided by the C&C 
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Re: Stus-List The Affordable Boat Act

2013-11-05 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Maybe we should shut down the whole coast line unless they de-fund this new 
affordable boat act

-- Original Message --
From: David Risch 
To: CNC CNC 
Subject: Re: Stus-List The Affordable Boat Act
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 09:47:21 -0500


"...and unless we pass this act we won't know what boat we have bought..."

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
From: bushma...@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 09:41:37 -0500
Subject: Stus-List The Affordable Boat Act

Here to get em' stirred up ... (and its boating related!)...applies to USA 
only...  (Disclaimer, this is intended as humor only and is not intended to be 
political or offensive to anyone, except maybe Nancy Pelosi)Richard1987 33-II
 Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
 Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
 502-584-7255
 
The Affordable Boat Act The U.S. government has just passed a new law called: 
"The affordable boat act" declaring that every citizen MUST purchase a new 
boat, by April 2014. These "affordable" boats will cost an average of 
$54,000-$155,000 each. This does not include taxes, trailers, towing fees, 
licensing and registration fees, fuel, docking and storage fees, maintenance or 
repair costs.
 
 This law has been passed, because until now, typically only wealthy and 
financially responsible people have been able to purchase boats. This new law 
ensures that every American can now have a "affordable" boat of their own, 
because everyone is "entitled" to a new boat. If you purchase your boat before 
the end of the year, you will receive 4 "free" life jackets; not including 
monthly usage fees.
 
 In order to make sure everyone purchases an affordable boat, the costs of 
owning a boat will increase on average of 250-400% per year. This way, wealthy 
people will pay more for something that other people don�t want or 
can�t afford to maintain. But to be fair, people who can�t afford 
to maintain their boat will be regularly fined and children (under the age of 
26) can use their parents boats to party on until they turn 27; then must 
purchase their own boat.
 
 If you already have a boat, you can keep yours as long as it meets federal 
minimum essential requirements, including accessories and options people 
wouldn't otherwise purchase on their own. If you don�t want or 
don�t need a boat, you are required to buy one anyhow. If you refuse to 
buy one or can�t afford one, you will be regularly fined $800 until you 
purchase one or face imprisonment.
 
 Failure to use the boat will also result in fines. People living in the 
desert, ghettos, inner cities or areas with no access to lakes are not exempt. 
Neither age, motion sickness, experience, knowledge nor lack of desire are 
acceptable excuses for not using your boat.
 
 A government review board (that doesn�t know the difference between the 
port, starboard or stern of a boat) will decide everything, including; when, 
where, how often, and for what purposes you can use your boat along with how 
many people can ride your boat and determine if one is too old or healthy 
enough to be able to use their boat. They will also decide if your boat has out 
lived its usefulness or if you must purchase specific accessories,(like a $500 
compass) or a newer and more expensive boat.
 Those that can afford yachts will be required to do so...it's only fair. The 
government will also decide the name for each boat. Failure to comply with 
these rules will result in fines and possible imprisonment.
 
 Government officials are exempt from this new law. If they want a boat, they 
and their families can obtain boats free, at the expense of tax payers. Unions, 
bankers and mega companies with large political affiliations ($$$) are also 
exempt.
 
  
___ This List is provided by the 
C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


Re: Stus-List The Affordable Boat Act

2013-11-05 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Well, Teddy isn't using his anymore...

-- Original Message --
From: Ed Levert 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List The Affordable Boat Act
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 14:59:50 +


If I ever had the opportunity to come face to face with politicians such as 
John Kerry or Ted Kennedy, I would take the time to compliment them on their 
magnificent sailing yachts, then tell them that I only had a lowly 1981 C&C 34, 
and that I would be certain that with their philosophy of taking from the rich 
and giving to the poor, that they would gladly give me their boat plus the 
money for upkeep, etc.
 
Ed
Briar Patch
New Orleans, La.
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush
 Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2013 8:42 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List The Affordable Boat Act
 
Here to get em' stirred up ... (and its boating related!)...applies to USA 
only... 
 
(Disclaimer, this is intended as humor only and is not intended to be political 
or offensive to anyone, except maybe Nancy Pelosi)
Richard
1987 33-II

 Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
 Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
 502-584-7255
 
The Affordable Boat Act
 
The U.S. government has just passed a new law called: "The affordable boat act" 
declaring that every citizen MUST purchase a new boat, by April 2014. These 
"affordable" boats will cost an average of $54,000-$155,000 each. This does not 
include taxes, trailers, towing fees, licensing and registration fees, fuel, 
docking and storage fees, maintenance or repair costs.
 
 This law has been passed, because until now, typically only wealthy and 
financially responsible people have been able to purchase boats. This new law 
ensures that every American can now have a "affordable" boat of their own, 
because everyone is "entitled" to a new boat. If you purchase your boat before 
the end of the year, you will receive 4 "free" life jackets; not including 
monthly usage fees.
 
 In order to make sure everyone purchases an affordable boat, the costs of 
owning a boat will increase on average of 250-400% per year. This way, wealthy 
people will pay more for something that other people don’t want or 
can’t afford to maintain. But to be fair, people who can’t afford 
to maintain their boat will be regularly fined and children (under the age of 
26) can use their parents boats to party on until they turn 27; then must 
purchase their own boat.
 
 If you already have a boat, you can keep yours as long as it meets federal 
minimum essential requirements, including accessories and options people 
wouldn't otherwise purchase on their own. If you don’t want or 
don’t need a boat, you are required to buy one anyhow. If you refuse to 
buy one or can’t afford one, you will be regularly fined $800 until you 
purchase one or face imprisonment.
 
 Failure to use the boat will also result in fines. People living in the 
desert, ghettos, inner cities or areas with no access to lakes are not exempt. 
Neither age, motion sickness, experience, knowledge nor lack of desire are 
acceptable excuses for not using your boat.
 
 A government review board (that doesn’t know the difference between the 
port, starboard or stern of a boat) will decide everything, including; when, 
where, how often, and for what purposes you can use your boat along with how 
many people can ride your boat and determine if one is too old or healthy 
enough to be able to use their boat. They will also decide if your boat has out 
lived its usefulness or if you must purchase specific accessories,(like a $500 
compass) or a newer and more expensive boat.

 Those that can afford yachts will be required to do so...it's only fair. The 
government will also decide the name for each boat. Failure to comply with 
these rules will result in fines and possible imprisonment.
 
 Government officials are exempt from this new law. If they want a boat, they 
and their families can obtain boats free, at the expense of tax payers. Unions, 
bankers and mega companies with large political affiliations ($$$) are also 
exempt.
 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing

2013-11-11 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Okay,

I removed the rudder today.  It does not weigh much at all,

There are no bearings.  It is just a fiberglass tube that fits tightly around 
the 1-7/8" shaft.  There were just 2 - 4"x1/4" nylon(?) washers between the pin 
that holds the rudder in place and the aluminum flange fitting in the cockpit.

It really is just hung there.  I couldn't help but to think that a SS washer on 
top of the 2 nylon(?) washers would be a good idea.  It was apparent that these 
washers had been switched around a few times by the marks from the pin on both 
sides of both nylon(?) washers.

So my thoughts ar maybe to just re install it and add a big 'ol fender washer 
for the pin to rest on.

However, my only concern is what the stainless shaft looks like inside the 
rudder...

https://korpoq.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pq2xBqhOTnVi8a3qjlKe3d3z5mZu4DLyvgdLO1n4y4kIAj-jz0KUR4EKzhrOKdm1UOBEIjnGtt3_lyaNLYnVRVciZi9tZT2-gzJtkcwoy1K8/2013_132315.jpg

In case that link doesn't work, here is a link to a folder with a bunch of boat 
pics.  The photos from today are all the way at the end.

Thanks again for any insights, observations or ideas.

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Martin DeYoung 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2013 17:54:01 +

> It doesn't weigh much. Not sure if that is good or bad. <

Calypso's displacement is in the 24,000lb range.  I have been told the original 
Bruckmann built rudder was lost in the early 70's on the way to Bermuda.  The 
replacement rudder may be overbuilt but I do not worry it will fail under any 
conditions we are likely to push Calypso into in the near future.

Much of the rig and steering related gear on the early Bruckmann built 43's 
appears to be the same spec as what was used on the early 61's.  The lower 
rudder bearing assembly is cast bronze and bolts on from the outside.  Think 2' 
long and 1' wide, faired into the hull shape, penetrating 1' into the hull with 
a machined load bearing collar/stuffing box assembly on top.  Frick'n massive, 
and heavy.

Given that we mostly race Calypso these days and the propensity for light air 
in the PNW a lighter rudder may not be bad.  Having said that our last day of 
racing saw steady winds in the mid 20's and gusts close to 30.  The 
rudder/steering gear work this summer was a comfort as we ducked a starboard 
tacker with maybe a little too much mainsheet on.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe
Sent: Friday, November 01, 2013 10:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing

OTOH I can carry my rudder around myself. It doesn't weigh much. Not sure if 
that is good or bad.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung
Sent: Friday, November 01, 2013 1:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing

> I guess I should commandeer a couple people to help drop that rudder.<

When dropping Calypso's rudder (large fiberglass over balsa with 3" dia. SS 
heavy wall tube shaft) this summer we used 4 to 5 people.  My guess is it 
weighs 200 to 250 lbs.  We were just barely able to clear the pavement with the 
boat in its normal yard position.  The backup plan was to spend the $$ to have 
the travel lift raise Calypso to give us the extra clearance.

We had cushioning material under the rudder in case it slipped from our grip 
and set up blocks to stabilize it 1/2 way out to allow for re-positioning of 
the muscle.

Prior to this summer's rudder repair project I dreaded the need to drop it out 
of the boat.  Now that I have done it the project seems no worse than any other 
yard project.  The more difficult part was working in the tight spaces around 
the quadrant.

Do take pictures and measurements of how the steering gear is set up.  I should 
have taken much better measurements of the position of the quadrant to avoid 
having to make a 3/8" adjustment to perfect the steering cable alignment.

Calypso's rudder bearing assemblies are much different than those described for 
a Viking 33 but I did perform a complete inspection of the shaft and the 
bearing surfaces looking for wear and corrosion.  I made detailed measurements 
of the rudder and shaft in case of future repairs.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2013 7:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing

"what, it's the first hole I dug?"

the 33 came with a tiller too.  Mine was converted over to a wheel but, the 
tiller fitting is still there

Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing

2013-11-11 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Oops, I forgot the link to the folder...

http://sdrv.ms/1bpnvZh

Danny


-- Original Message --
From: "djhaug...@juno.com" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2013 21:53:25 GMT

Okay,

I removed the rudder today.  It does not weigh much at all,

There are no bearings.  It is just a fiberglass tube that fits tightly around 
the 1-7/8" shaft.  There were just 2 - 4"x1/4" nylon(?) washers between the pin 
that holds the rudder in place and the aluminum flange fitting in the cockpit.

It really is just hung there.  I couldn't help but to think that a SS washer on 
top of the 2 nylon(?) washers would be a good idea.  It was apparent that these 
washers had been switched around a few times by the marks from the pin on both 
sides of both nylon(?) washers.

So my thoughts ar maybe to just re install it and add a big 'ol fender washer 
for the pin to rest on.

However, my only concern is what the stainless shaft looks like inside the 
rudder...

https://korpoq.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pq2xBqhOTnVi8a3qjlKe3d3z5mZu4DLyvgdLO1n4y4kIAj-jz0KUR4EKzhrOKdm1UOBEIjnGtt3_lyaNLYnVRVciZi9tZT2-gzJtkcwoy1K8/2013_132315.jpg

In case that link doesn't work, here is a link to a folder with a bunch of boat 
pics.  The photos from today are all the way at the end.

Thanks again for any insights, observations or ideas.

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Martin DeYoung 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2013 17:54:01 +

> It doesn't weigh much. Not sure if that is good or bad. <

Calypso's displacement is in the 24,000lb range.  I have been told the original 
Bruckmann built rudder was lost in the early 70's on the way to Bermuda.  The 
replacement rudder may be overbuilt but I do not worry it will fail under any 
conditions we are likely to push Calypso into in the near future.

Much of the rig and steering related gear on the early Bruckmann built 43's 
appears to be the same spec as what was used on the early 61's.  The lower 
rudder bearing assembly is cast bronze and bolts on from the outside.  Think 2' 
long and 1' wide, faired into the hull shape, penetrating 1' into the hull with 
a machined load bearing collar/stuffing box assembly on top.  Frick'n massive, 
and heavy.

Given that we mostly race Calypso these days and the propensity for light air 
in the PNW a lighter rudder may not be bad.  Having said that our last day of 
racing saw steady winds in the mid 20's and gusts close to 30.  The 
rudder/steering gear work this summer was a comfort as we ducked a starboard 
tacker with maybe a little too much mainsheet on.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe
Sent: Friday, November 01, 2013 10:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing

OTOH I can carry my rudder around myself. It doesn't weigh much. Not sure if 
that is good or bad.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung
Sent: Friday, November 01, 2013 1:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing

> I guess I should commandeer a couple people to help drop that rudder.<

When dropping Calypso's rudder (large fiberglass over balsa with 3" dia. SS 
heavy wall tube shaft) this summer we used 4 to 5 people.  My guess is it 
weighs 200 to 250 lbs.  We were just barely able to clear the pavement with the 
boat in its normal yard position.  The backup plan was to spend the $$ to have 
the travel lift raise Calypso to give us the extra clearance.

We had cushioning material under the rudder in case it slipped from our grip 
and set up blocks to stabilize it 1/2 way out to allow for re-positioning of 
the muscle.

Prior to this summer's rudder repair project I dreaded the need to drop it out 
of the boat.  Now that I have done it the project seems no worse than any other 
yard project.  The more difficult part was working in the tight spaces around 
the quadrant.

Do take pictures and measurements of how the steering gear is set up.  I should 
have taken much better measurements of the position of the quadrant to avoid 
having to make a 3/8" adjustment to perfect the steering cable alignment.

Calypso's rudder bearing assemblies are much different than those described for 
a Viking 33 but I did perform a complete inspection of the shaft and the 
bearing surfaces looking for wear and corrosion.  I made detailed measurements 
of the rudder and shaft in case of future repairs.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: 

Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing

2013-11-12 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
I'm going to have to look closer but, all I could really see was the fiberglass 
tube with an aluminum flange at the top and the rudder basically hangs by a pin 
from there.  2 1/2" thick teflon looking "washers" keep the pin off the 
aluminum and pretty much ride on each other to reduce friction.  I was thinking 
of just adding an SS washer to try and distribute the point loads from the pin. 
 I'm thinking a should just replace those 2 teflon looking washers as long as I 
have it apart.  But, honestly, I think they would work just fine.  I think the 
idea is just to keep thinks nice and slippery up at the top.  Although, a nice 
tight fit would keep it from moving about.  Maybe I should take some good 
measurements with a caliper and have something machined for the top and the 
bottom? It's obvious this rudder has been removed a number of times.  I'm 
wondering whether or not it would get dropped every few years to add anti 
fouling between the hull and the rudder.   So, maybe I get 1'-0" length of 
3-5/8" delrin rod and have all those pieces fabricated at a machine shop?  
Then,slap it all back together?   I keep thinking I should improve upon what is 
there just because I have it all apart.  

-- Original Message --
From: "Dennis C." 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 09:50:49 -0800 (PST)


I had a new upper rudder bearing made for Touche' from 1/2 inch thick Delrin.  
Any decent machinist should be able to do it.  The next one I have made will be 
from 1 inch or 2 pieces of 1/2 inch to increase the bearing surface.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
   From: Jim Watts 
 To: 1 CnC List  
 Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 4:38 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing
 
Those bearing discs are probably Delrin, aka Acetal. I think Dennis C. and/or 
Joe D.B. scored some made from PEEK or some such...you can make them yourself 
from sheet stock or have a machine shop mill them out.   ___
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Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing

2013-11-12 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
well, I don't know exactly how much play.  I just know there is play.  Yea I 
can lift the rudder a 1/4".  I could also go to 2- 3/16" thick delrin washers 
if I was worried.  Or I could just have 2 of each made and play around with it. 
At the bottom, it could actually have been play at the top and when I was 
pulling on the rudder, the point where the rudder exits the hull could have 
been a fulcrum point and only appeared to be sloppy.  I'll have to take some 
careful measures it seems... Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 13:45:24 -0500


Dan, How much play is there? �Looks like a pretty tight fit without a 
bearing. �Can you lift up the rudder 1/4 inch to compensate for the SS 
washer?� Joel

On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 1:40 PM, Jim Watts  wrote:
3 5/8" Delrin rod could be hard to come by, 4" is probably the closest you'll 
find (even at McMaster-Carr). But it does machine beautifully so you could turn 
it to size on a lathe. My rudder is essentially the same construction except it 
has a knurled nut on top that rides on the Delrin instead of a pin. 

On 12 November 2013 10:31, djhaug...@juno.com  wrote:I'm 
going to have to look closer but, all I could really see was the fiberglass 
tube with an aluminum flange at the top and the rudder basically hangs by a pin 
from there. �2 1/2" thick teflon looking "washers" keep the pin off the 
aluminum and pretty much ride on each other to reduce friction. �I was 
thinking of just adding an SS washer to try and distribute the point loads from 
the pin. �I'm thinking a should just replace those 2 teflon looking 
washers as long as I have it apart. �But, honestly, I think they would 
work just fine. �I think the idea is just to keep thinks nice and 
slippery up at the top. �Although, a nice tight fit would keep it from 
moving about. �Maybe I should take some good measurements with a caliper 
and have something machined for the top and the bottom?�It's obvious 
this rudder has been removed a number of times. �I'm wondering whether 
or not it would get dropped every few years to add anti fouling between the 
hull and the rudder. ��So, maybe I get 1'-0" length of 3-5/8" 
delrin rod and have all those pieces fabricated at a machine shop? 
�Then,slap it all back together? ��I keep thinking I 
should improve upon what is there just because I have it all 
apart.��

-- Original Message --
From: "Dennis C." 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearingDate: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 09:50:49 -0800 
(PST)

I had a new upper rudder bearing made for Touche' from 1/2 inch thick 
Delrin.� Any decent machinist should be able to do it.� The next 
one I have made will be from 1 inch or 2 pieces of 1/2 inch to increase the 
bearing surface.
 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
�� From: Jim Watts 
 To: 1 CnC List  
 Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 4:38 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing
 
Those bearing discs are probably Delrin, aka Acetal. I think Dennis C. and/or 
Joe D.B. scored some made from PEEK or some such...you can make them yourself 
from sheet stock or have a machine shop mill them 
out.��___
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Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
 
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Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing

2013-11-12 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
there was nothing between the rudder and the hull and maybe a 1/4" to 3/8" gap.

Danny
-- Original Message --
From: Wally Bryant 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 19:28:06 +

While you have the rudder out, did you notice if there was a plastic 
washer (delrin or nylon) between your rudder and hull?  It's probably 
worth replacing, if there was one.  Not having one can cause your rudder 
to bounce up and down in rough seas.

Wal

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Stus-List Broken Strut

2013-11-15 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
 So, my prop strut was broken when they hauled my boat this year.  I got, "did 
you know your strut was broken?  You must have had terrible vibrations."  I 
didn't have any that I noticed.  Then he says, " maybe you should go to a 
regular prop"  I said " that set up has been on the boat 40 years without an 
issue..." Anyway.  They say that they can't just buy a replacement and that i 
need to have one fabricated!   for $530!!!  OUCH! DAnny___
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Re: Stus-List Broken Strut

2013-11-15 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
The guy at the yard checked buck algonquin with no luck.  I did look around and 
there was no apparent neglect.  However, they had already powerwashed 
everything by the time I got to see it.  It is obvious they are not owning up 
to it and I have no reason to think otherwise except the fact that there was no 
noticeable change while motoring... I just heard from him and he going to try 
and get me a photo of it.  The guy at Holland Marine said he might have some 
old stock laying around and might be able to match it up. I'm assuming this 
isn't the only boat that used this strut... Danny
-- Original Message --
From: Jim Watts 
To: 1 CnC List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Strut
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 09:27:16 -0800


Have you checked Buck Algonquin for a match? 

http://catalog.buckalgonquin.com/category/struts-1



On 15 November 2013 09:03, djhaug...@juno.com  wrote:
�So, my prop strut was broken when they hauled my boat this year. 
�I got, "did you know your strut was broken? �You must have had 
terrible vibrations." �I didn't have any that I noticed. �Then he 
says, " maybe you should go to a regular prop" �I said " that set up has 
been on the boat 40 years without an issue..."�Anyway. �They say 
that they can't just buy a replacement and that i need to have one fabricated! 
� for $530!!! �OUCH!�DAnny
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C&C 35 Mk III
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Re: Stus-List Broken Strut

2013-11-15 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
No, not really.  the break was slightly, even green.  The boat was hauled for 
about 2 weeks before I got to look at it

T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network

- Reply message -
From: "Russ & Melody" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Broken Strut
Date: Fri, Nov 15, 2013 7:33 pm
Hi Danny,


In most cases it is pretty obvious if the joint has been exposed to
seawater and/or oxygen for any length of time. A "bright"
bronze is recent exposure. Normal power washing won't clean up
tarnish.


Any indication of fresh bronze in the broken area?




Cheers,
Russ

Sweet
35 mk-1




At 11:03 AM 15/11/2013, you wrote:

The guy at the yard checked buck
algonquin with no luck.  I did look around and there was no apparent
neglect.  However, they had already powerwashed everything by the
time I got to see it.  It is obvious they are not owning up to it
and I have no reason to think otherwise except the fact that there was no
noticeable change while motoring...



I just heard from him and he going to try and get me a photo of it. 
The guy at Holland Marine said he might have some old stock laying around
and might be able to match it up.



I'm assuming this isn't the only boat that used this strut...



Danny


-- Original Message --

From: Jim Watts 

To: 1 CnC List 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Strut

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 09:27:16 -0800


Have you checked Buck Algonquin for a match? 



http://catalog.buckalgonquin.com/category/struts-1





On 15 November 2013 09:03,
djhaug...@juno.com

wrote:



So, my prop strut was broken when they hauled my boat this year. I
got, "did you know your strut was broken? You must have had terrible
vibrations." I didn't have any that I noticed. Then he says, "
maybe you should go to a regular prop" I said " that set up has
been on the boat 40 years without an issue..."


Anyway. They say that they can't just buy a replacement and that i
need to have one fabricated! for $530!!! OUCH!


DAnny



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Jim Watts

Paradigm Shift

C&C 35 Mk III

Victoria, BC

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Re: Stus-List Broken strut

2013-11-17 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
yea that is my fear in a repair as well.  That maybe the bronze has been 
compromised... and it may break again.

I notice in one of my photos a discoloration in that area of the strut.,  
http://sdrv.ms/17iYlwd

I'm thinking it was just old and the composition changed...

Danny


-- Original Message --
From: Rick Bushie 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken strut
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2013 22:02:42 -0500

My strut broke 2 years ago. It was the design that bolted onto the bottom. When 
I couldn't find a new one, I took it into a shop for repair. It turned out 
beautifully! Then it broke right above the repair the first time I engaged the 
reversing gear. I wound up installing a through hull design. 
Rick Bushie
Anchovy 1971 30-1

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Broken strut

2013-11-17 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
here is another question;

If i'm going to spend $530 to have a new one made, are there any improvement I 
can make on the original design?  I guess the original lasted 40 years (I'm 
assumimg it is original)  so, it is probably safe to say the design is 
sufficient.  LOL

Danny


-- Original Message --
From: Rick Bushie 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken strut
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2013 22:02:42 -0500

My strut broke 2 years ago. It was the design that bolted onto the bottom. When 
I couldn't find a new one, I took it into a shop for repair. It turned out 
beautifully! Then it broke right above the repair the first time I engaged the 
reversing gear. I wound up installing a through hull design. 
Rick Bushie
Anchovy 1971 30-1

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Broken strut

2013-11-18 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
So, Ontario yachts are still in business.  I decided I would take a chance and 
and send them an email.  i found an email address on the Etchells site.  I 
asked them if they had info that would be helpful in my search for a new prop 
strut.  To my surprise I got a response this morning.

I was told the struts were mostly custom castings and that those forms would 
have been destroyed shortly after the boats went out of production in the early 
80s

At least I don't have to try and find one any longer.

So the solution still remains to be, either, a custom casting, repair the 
broken strut, or fab a new strut from Stainless.

There is a repair shop on the north shore of Massachusetts.  They do repairs 
and custom work.  Maybe the best bet is to send it there and have them advise 
in the most cost effective, viable solution.

Danny


-- Original Message --
From: Wally Bryant 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken strut
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2013 19:02:17 +

And, actually, I have a SS prop, which has lasted far longer than any 
bronze prop I've ever owned.
After buying my fourth bronze prop, I said heck with it and bought this 
Autostream prop.

It was just a hot marina, though. Heck, these days I go through a zinc 
every two or three years... No electrical problems on the boat.

Wal

you wrote:
> Prop shafts are stainless, they spend a lot of time under water, including 
> under seawater�


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Re: Stus-List Broken strut

2013-11-18 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
I did not,  All the ones I saw there seems to either be either the universal 
style where is seems to penetrate the hull or their base plates are flat.  The 
base plate on mine is "V" shaped.

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "Bill Coleman" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken strut
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2013 15:21:03 -0500

Did you go through the entire exercise on Buck Algonquin?  Looks like you
can input your angle, offsets, diameter, etc and it will pick out a strut
for you.

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 


-

So, Ontario yachts are still in business.  I decided I would take a chance
and and send them an email.  i found an email address on the Etchells site.
I asked them if they had info that would be helpful in my search for a new
prop strut.  To my surprise I got a response this morning.

I was told the struts were mostly custom castings and that those forms would
have been destroyed shortly after the boats went out of production in the
early 80s

At least I don't have to try and find one any longer.

So the solution still remains to be, either, a custom casting, repair the
broken strut, or fab a new strut from Stainless.

There is a repair shop on the north shore of Massachusetts.  They do repairs
and custom work.  Maybe the best bet is to send it there and have them
advise in the most cost effective, viable solution.

Danny



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Re: Stus-List New boat - actually own it now!

2013-11-19 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Mark,

Congratulations!!!

Good luck!!


Danny


-- Original Message --
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List New boat - actually own it now!
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 15:23:18 -0400



So the deed is done. I decided to throw caution into the wind and I now
own a 1986 CS 30.
The PO was not interested in any further negotiation despite my finding
a few issues - but I feel like I had a good price and that this was a
good boat for me, so I just went for it.

Was down at the boat on Sunday - doing some cleaning. Got some pictures
of the cracks in the ribs.
https://picasaweb.google.com/110611663409773219866/DropBox?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCKGJ-8HGzvSpJg&feat=directlink
Not great, but not  to serious (IMHO). I see a bit of fiberglass work in 
my future to
stiffen those back up. - Comments from the CS list indicate that the 
ribs are a liner,
not structurally part of the hull.

Otherwise everything looks quite good. Bow stem does not appear to have
cracks (as best I can see without removing the forestay). CS list 
recommended
the cockpit drainpipes needing a good check - while they look watertight
I can see some serious cracking - those will need to be replaced.

It was recommended that I should pull the fuel tank and clean it -
looking at it yesterday I see that it was stored for 2 yrs at only 1/8
full - so all the more reason to look closely.
Mechanic was able to start the engine fairly easily and ran it for 45min
- so it can't be too bad, but hate to find sludge getting stirred up
when I do the 12 hr trip home in the spring (boat is 100km away by
water). The good news - easy to empty with only a bit of fuel!!!
Question - there is an older "water/fuel" filter on the boat (not Rancor
- at least I couldn't see that name on it anywhere) - it's mounted
pretty low in the cockpit locker (even with the fuel tank) - it would be
really hard to access and change the filter etc in any type of weather
-- are there better locations?
Wonder if I might want to go to a plastic fuel tank rather than
stainless? I didn't see any signs of leaking (few pictures of underneath).

The big cleaning job was a nasty sticky brown film all through the
bilge. Didn't smell like diesel - but maybe it's really OLD diesel that
has been stuck there forever. Came up not bad with Mr. Clean and a few
hours of elbow grease!

Lots to do - but getting too cold to do much!

Mark

-- 

-
   Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
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Stus-List Happy Thanksgiving

2013-11-27 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
 In case I don't get a chance later...Happy Thanksgiving, all! I'm thankful for 
Stu, for this list, and all you guys and your advice and banter! All the best! 
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Re: Stus-List : new boat, 1985 C&C 37

2013-12-13 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
That's amazing Richard!  Congratulations!  How long ago did you buy your first 
C&C?

Best of luck getting her into the water this spring!

Danny

T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network

- Reply message -
From: "Rich Knowles" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List : new boat, 1985 C&C 37
Date: Fri, Dec 13, 2013 3:00 am
Well done, Richard!  A true bear for punishment! 

Rich
On Dec 13, 2013, at 1:37, "Richard N. Bush"  wrote:


Hello friends; I am happy to let you know that I have just received delivery of 
my fourth (yes 4th!), C&C; a 1985 37; centerboard model.  We had many issues 
getting it trucked in from Newburyport, MA; mostly weather related, but some 
delays due to the trucking company.



It is in pretty good shape, however, because we're in this deep freeze I wont 
be able to make a really good assessment of what needs to be done until it 
warms up a bit.   I will have a million questions then!   



A C&C is a novelty here on the Ohio River; the only ones anyone around here 
have seen have been those which we have brought in; first we brought a 1982 25 
from Austin Texas; then a 1985 29-2 from Cleveland; then a 1987 33-2 from 
Jacksonville, Fl, and now the 37;  the 29 went to Tennessee, but the 25 is 
still here; and of course the 33-2 is up for sale-I am what the realtors call a 
"motivated seller"!;



The local guys asked me why I stayed with the C&C; I thought about it; 
originally I bought the 25 without knowing anything about C&C's other than a 
general reputation for being quality boats; after I had the boat  a while, I 
was impressed by the workmanship on the 25 so when I wanted to move up, I 
looked at the 29s; then when we wanted something bigger, I went for the sailing 
ability of the 33-2; now, I figure I have enough research knowledge (mostly 
through the collective wisdom of this group) and hands-on experience that I 
couldn't go wrong in staying in the C&C line.  The truth is, I looked at other 
brands and simple kept coming back to the  C&C; as someone said in the recent 
thread about taxes; the C&Cs are the best bang for your buck and they sail 
better than anything else out there.



Many thanks,



Richard


1985 37; Ohio River, Mile 584;



Richard N. Bush Law Offices 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9

Louisville, Kentucky 40220 

502-584-7255



























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Re: Stus-List Merry Christmas to all

2013-12-24 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
And to you!  ...and all of you.

Stu, I know you hear it a lot but, thank you so much for this forum and all you 
do to keep it up and running...

All the best guys!

Danny

T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network

- Reply message -
From: "Leslie Paal" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Merry Christmas to all
Date: Tue, Dec 24, 2013 12:17 pm


 

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Re: Stus-List Winch replacement, holes, etc.

2013-12-29 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Defender has a spring sale every year in march I believe.  Its like a mini bat 
show.  LewMar was offering some really good deals last year.  If I recall it 
was like half off MSRP.

If you aren't in any great hurry but, want them fir this year you may want to 
wait and see the prices at the spring sale.

Danny.

T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network

- Reply message -
From: blhick...@yahoo.com
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Winch replacement, holes, etc.
Date: Sat, Dec 28, 2013 8:42 am


Thank you thank you thank you for all the great advice, suggestions and 
cautionary tales.  I've got a bit more homework to do but I like the idea of 
winch pads if necessary. (I've seen them for ages, why didn't I think of 
that?!). Thx for the polishing suggestions too, Dennis. Aside from waxing and 
buffing, haven't messed with the gel coat.  Will post a pic of finished work 
whenever that great day arrives.  
And now... Aside from the fall boat show discounts, is there any other time of 
year that is good for discounts.  Defender looks like the best prices right 
now.   
Cheers, 
Barbara Hickson Fellers
Flight Risk, 33-1
Charleston, SC. 


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Re: Stus-List HNY

2014-01-01 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
HAPPY HEALTHY NEW YEAR ALL!!

Danny


-- Original Message --
From: Rich Knowles 
To: cnc-list Cnc-List 
Subject: Stus-List HNY
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 23:00:43 -0400

All the best to everyone! Only another 4 months of winter to endure:)

Rich

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Re: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives

2014-01-01 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
I'm at FL Tripp's marina in the westport River and they seem to have moorings.  
Although, this year they are saying that they are getting moor renters.It's a 
little tricky getting in and out of the river but you can be at Cuttyhunk in a 
couple hours and over to Martha's vineyard in about 6 hours.  The Elizabeth 
chain of islands offers some nice anchoring.  Although, I'm pretty new to the 
area and have not been to any of them yet.  But I hear all the talk! I love it 
there and Westport and South Dartmouth are beautiful places to live.  Very 
rural though.  But you can be in providence in 40 minutes from the shore and 
Boston in about an hour.  Tiverton RI is right there too. Bristol is great!  I 
lived there during college and go back every summer for restaurants and walking 
around.  It is a daysail to get out to buzzard's Bay.  Jamestown is also really 
great!  If you're on the north side your pretty well protected.  Narragansett 
bay is really great fro destination sailing.  Bristol, Newport, Fall river, 
Wickford...  Sometimes the wind doesn't make it in there though...  I sailed 
out of MT. hope bay my first 5-6 years sailing an O'day 22.  There some great 
places to just anchor and hang out too.  Very protected! My feeling is, you 
can't go wrong anywhere in the area.  summers here are amazing!!! Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "Joe Della Barba" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 09:53:39 -0500


My family has lived in the Little Compton/Westport area for ages. I like the 
Westport River. You have a fun island in the entrance to dinghy over to and 
some really nice ocean beaches. Can’t say how easy it is to get a mooring 
or a slip right now.
 
Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com
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Re: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives

2014-01-02 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Dave, did you really mean 55K?  I want one of those!!!  If that's true I'll be 
moving to Bristol!!! Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "David Jacobs" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 12:38:17 -0500


Bob,
 
My wife and I faced the exact same dilemma last year. Since I sailed out of the 
New Bedford YC many years ago we were looking at Padanarum/South Dartmouth on 
Buzzards Bay. We went to the Boston Boat Show and ran into a realtor there who 
put up a display. We told him what we were looking for and he suggested Bristol 
which up to them was only a sign I passes when we’d drive to Newport.
 
We visited Bristol and found that it had everything we were looking for, 
restaurants, the Herreshorf Museum, Linden Place, Blythwold Mansion, The 
Bristol Yacht Club which is very much a sailors yacht club, a 14 mile long 
bicycle trail that runs along the water all the way to Providence, beaches at 
Colt Park all in a very compact walkable town. Roger Williams University is 
also there which brings young people and culture. Finally the town is host to 
the longest continually running (238 years) 4th of July parade in the country 
and several weeks of concerts and fireworks leading up to the 4th.. We liked it 
so much we ended up purchasing a home there that was built in 1845 and 
we’re totaling renovating it. There are several homes available in town 
for less than $55K that are within walking distance to the restaurants (some of 
them quite good) and shops.
 
We’ve been amazed at how many people retire in Bristol. Many of these 
folks are young active retirees and a lot of the social life revolves around 
the yacht club and the Herreshorf museum. In fact there seem to be a lot of 
college kids and a lot of 60 somethings and not a lot in between because the 
people who grow up in the area all move to Barrington and the schools there 
when they have school age kids.
 
There is an event at the Yacht Club sometime in January for people who might be 
interested in joining. You might want to call the Stewart there to find out 
more details.
 
Good luck,
Dave 
Saltaire
C&C 35 MK III
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob 
McLaughlin
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2013 6:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives
 
I’m interested in locals’ opinions of good towns to retire to and 
good harbor suggestions to move my C&C to in the So New England area.
 
We sailed our C&C 33-II for the past 22 years and last year moved up to a C&C 
110 (6.5’ draft) with the intent of moving from the Midwest 
“back” in the next ~2-3 years to the southern New England area to 
retire and do more sailing.  (I say “back” since I grew up sailing 
in NJ with many summers out to Nantucket.  My parents lived in Newport for 
awhile too, so the area from ~Block I to Nantucket became the center of my 
interest and we’ve chartered there many times in the years since moving 
to St Louis.)
 
Any thoughts of CT, RI or MA preferences?  This may be mostly an issue of tax 
differences but are there some other state-wide issues someone might suggest 
for consideration?  
 
Our thinking regarding towns from afar is either the Narragansett Bay area or 
the northeastern shore of Buzzard’s Bay.  It would be ideal to spend less 
than $500k for a 3-4 BR house or condo near the water/boat.  Reasonable access 
to a major airport would be a plus too but not under the approach/departure 
flight path (an issue for the Providence airport/Greenwich area?), as well as 
nice shore activities such as theater etc. 
 
The early short-list to explore is below, though I’m curious what gem 
we’re overlooking or perhaps areas to eliminate.   At one point moorings 
in some harbors had long wait lists.  Is that still the case?  What about the 
moorings themselves, are some harbors know for good facilities/better holding 
ground?  Are helical screw mooring fields the way to go?  I thought I read some 
towns were installing them. (Our family lost one boat to a hurricane when she 
dragged her mushroom anchor up onto a sea wall). 
 
In RI:
Bristol or the East Greenwich/Warwick area, though I wonder if it’s a bit 
far up the bay to get out to the islands quickly (though I like the idea of 
some protected sailing for the more blustery days).   Bristol appears open to 
storms but I like the town and harbor area.
 
Newport would be great but I fear I’d grow weary of the summer crowds.   
Jamestown seems too open.  
 
Anyone know about Melville?  Wickford?
 
In MA:
Marion or Padanaram seem possibly idea, and I love insight to these.  What 
about Mattapoisett?  Is my thinking that getting onto the Cape is asking for 
traffic and crowd headaches correct?
 
In CT:
Stonington (though getting a bit east, our daughter lives in Newton MA- but 
right on I-95 maybe no further away by car than say, Marion...)
 
I’d welcome any thoughts 

Re: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives

2014-01-02 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Dammit...I already started packing up the house!

-- Original Message --
From: "David Jacobs" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 13:11:16 -0500


Whoops, that’ll be $500K. But in fact there are several 3 bedroom places 
in the $400’s.
 
Dave
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2014 12:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives
 
Dave,
 
did you really mean 55K?  I want one of those!!!  If that's true I'll be moving 
to Bristol!!!
 
Danny


-- Original Message --
From: "David Jacobs" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 12:38:17 -0500
Bob,
 
My wife and I faced the exact same dilemma last year. Since I sailed out of the 
New Bedford YC many years ago we were looking at Padanarum/South Dartmouth on 
Buzzards Bay. We went to the Boston Boat Show and ran into a realtor there who 
put up a display. We told him what we were looking for and he suggested Bristol 
which up to them was only a sign I passes when we’d drive to Newport.
 
We visited Bristol and found that it had everything we were looking for, 
restaurants, the Herreshorf Museum, Linden Place, Blythwold Mansion, The 
Bristol Yacht Club which is very much a sailors yacht club, a 14 mile long 
bicycle trail that runs along the water all the way to Providence, beaches at 
Colt Park all in a very compact walkable town. Roger Williams University is 
also there which brings young people and culture. Finally the town is host to 
the longest continually running (238 years) 4th of July parade in the country 
and several weeks of concerts and fireworks leading up to the 4th.. We liked it 
so much we ended up purchasing a home there that was built in 1845 and 
we’re totaling renovating it. There are several homes available in town 
for less than $55K that are within walking distance to the restaurants (some of 
them quite good) and shops.
 
We’ve been amazed at how many people retire in Bristol. Many of these 
folks are young active retirees and a lot of the social life revolves around 
the yacht club and the Herreshorf museum. In fact there seem to be a lot of 
college kids and a lot of 60 somethings and not a lot in between because the 
people who grow up in the area all move to Barrington and the schools there 
when they have school age kids.
 
There is an event at the Yacht Club sometime in January for people who might be 
interested in joining. You might want to call the Stewart there to find out 
more details.
 
Good luck,
Dave 
Saltaire
C&C 35 MK III
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob 
McLaughlin
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2013 6:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives
 
I’m interested in locals’ opinions of good towns to retire to and 
good harbor suggestions to move my C&C to in the So New England area.
 
We sailed our C&C 33-II for the past 22 years and last year moved up to a C&C 
110 (6.5’ draft) with the intent of moving from the Midwest 
“back” in the next ~2-3 years to the southern New England area to 
retire and do more sailing.  (I say “back” since I grew up sailing 
in NJ with many summers out to Nantucket.  My parents lived in Newport for 
awhile too, so the area from ~Block I to Nantucket became the center of my 
interest and we’ve chartered there many times in the years since moving 
to St Louis.)
 
Any thoughts of CT, RI or MA preferences?  This may be mostly an issue of tax 
differences but are there some other state-wide issues someone might suggest 
for consideration?  
 
Our thinking regarding towns from afar is either the Narragansett Bay area or 
the northeastern shore of Buzzard’s Bay.  It would be ideal to spend less 
than $500k for a 3-4 BR house or condo near the water/boat.  Reasonable access 
to a major airport would be a plus too but not under the approach/departure 
flight path (an issue for the Providence airport/Greenwich area?), as well as 
nice shore activities such as theater etc. 
 
The early short-list to explore is below, though I’m curious what gem 
we’re overlooking or perhaps areas to eliminate.   At one point moorings 
in some harbors had long wait lists.  Is that still the case?  What about the 
moorings themselves, are some harbors know for good facilities/better holding 
ground?  Are helical screw mooring fields the way to go?  I thought I read some 
towns were installing them. (Our family lost one boat to a hurricane when she 
dragged her mushroom anchor up onto a sea wall). 
 
In RI:
Bristol or the East Greenwich/Warwick area, though I wonder if it’s a bit 
far up the bay to get out to the islands quickly (though I like the idea of 
some protected sailing for the more blustery 

Re: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives

2014-01-02 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Holy crap...  I want to go there  I wish I could retire now!  Just one 
lucky lottery ticket away...  LOL

-- Original Message --
From: "Rick Brass" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 16:24:45 -0500


Damn! There are eleven three bedroom places here in Washington, NC �in 
the $40s. In fact, I’ll sell you my 1400 square foot 3 bedroom on 
� acre of land for $65, such is the local market. And I’ll even 
set you up with a slip for your boat at the local country club – about 1 
mile away – where you can sail 12 months a year for under $3500 a year.
 
Or you could buy a bigger, newer place with a deeded slip for a bit over $200k.
 
Rick
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Jacobs
Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2014 1:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives
 
Whoops, that’ll be $500K. But in fact there are several 3 bedroom places 
in the $400’s.
 
Dave
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2014 12:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives
 
Dave,
 
did you really mean 55K?  I want one of those!!!  If that's true I'll be moving 
to Bristol!!!
 
Danny


-- Original Message --
From: "David Jacobs" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 12:38:17 -0500
Bob,
 
My wife and I faced the exact same dilemma last year. Since I sailed out of the 
New Bedford YC many years ago we were looking at Padanarum/South Dartmouth on 
Buzzards Bay. We went to the Boston Boat Show and ran into a realtor there who 
put up a display. We told him what we were looking for and he suggested Bristol 
which up to them was only a sign I passes when we’d drive to Newport.
 
We visited Bristol and found that it had everything we were looking for, 
restaurants, the Herreshorf Museum, Linden Place, Blythwold Mansion, The 
Bristol Yacht Club which is very much a sailors yacht club, a 14 mile long 
bicycle trail that runs along the water all the way to Providence, beaches at 
Colt Park all in a very compact walkable town. Roger Williams University is 
also there which brings young people and culture. Finally the town is host to 
the longest continually running (238 years) 4th of July parade in the country 
and several weeks of concerts and fireworks leading up to the 4th.. We liked it 
so much we ended up purchasing a home there that was built in 1845 and 
we’re totaling renovating it. There are several homes available in town 
for less than $55K that are within walking distance to the restaurants (some of 
them quite good) and shops.
 
We’ve been amazed at how many people retire in Bristol. Many of these 
folks are young active retirees and a lot of the social life revolves around 
the yacht club and the Herreshorf museum. In fact there seem to be a lot of 
college kids and a lot of 60 somethings and not a lot in between because the 
people who grow up in the area all move to Barrington and the schools there 
when they have school age kids.
 
There is an event at the Yacht Club sometime in January for people who might be 
interested in joining. You might want to call the Stewart there to find out 
more details.
 
Good luck,
Dave 
Saltaire
C&C 35 MK III
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob 
McLaughlin
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2013 6:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives
 
I’m interested in locals’ opinions of good towns to retire to and 
good harbor suggestions to move my C&C to in the So New England area.
 
We sailed our C&C 33-II for the past 22 years and last year moved up to a C&C 
110 (6.5’ draft) with the intent of moving from the Midwest 
“back” in the next ~2-3 years to the southern New England area to 
retire and do more sailing.  (I say “back” since I grew up sailing 
in NJ with many summers out to Nantucket.  My parents lived in Newport for 
awhile too, so the area from ~Block I to Nantucket became the center of my 
interest and we’ve chartered there many times in the years since moving 
to St Louis.)
 
Any thoughts of CT, RI or MA preferences?  This may be mostly an issue of tax 
differences but are there some other state-wide issues someone might suggest 
for consideration?  
 
Our thinking regarding towns from afar is either the Narragansett Bay area or 
the northeastern shore of Buzzard’s Bay.  It would be ideal to spend less 
than $500k for a 3-4 BR house or condo near the water/boat.  Reasonable access 
to a major airport would be a plus too but not under the approach/departure 
flight path (an issue for the Providence airport/Greenwich area?), as well as 
nice shore activities such as theater etc. 
 
The ea

Re: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives

2014-01-02 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
So True!!!  I need to get a grip!!  LOL Funny you should say that...  I just 
happen to have my Dad's old 1982 Ford I'm fixing up to drive around. My problem 
is my addiction to toys  

-- Original Message --
From: "Dennis C." 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 14:36:09 -0800 (PST)


Danny, Retirement is a life style decision.  If you are OK with living in a 
used single wide trailer in southern Mississippi and driving a rusty old 1983 
pick up truck, you can retire now.  :) If you want that new Lexus every year 
and that fancy house, keep on working. I like my pick up truck.  :)  (Just 
teasing) Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA  From: "djhaug...@juno.com" 

 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Thursday, January 2, 2014 4:24 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives
 
Holy crap...  I want to go there  I wish I could retire now!  Just one 
lucky lottery ticket away...  LOL-- Original Message --From: 
"Rick Brass" To: Subject: Re: 
Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectivesDate: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 
16:24:45 -0500Damn! There are eleven three bedroom places here in Washington, 
NC �in the $40s. In fact, I’ll sell you my 1400 square foot 3 
bedroom on � acre of land for $65, such is the local market. And 
I’ll even set you up with a slip for your boat at the local country club 
– about 1 mile away – where you can sail 12 months a year for under 
$3500 a year. Or you could buy a bigger, newer place with a deeded slip for a 
bit over $200k. Rick From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of David JacobsSent: Thursday, January 02, 2014 1:11 PMTo: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor 
perspectives Whoops, that’ll be $500K. But in fact there are several 3 
bedroom places in the $400’s. Dave From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of djhaughey@juno.comSent: 
Thursday, January 02, 2014 12:55 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: 
Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives Dave, did you really 
mean 55K?  I want one of those!!!  If that's true I'll be moving to Bristol!!! 
Danny-- Original Message --From: "David Jacobs" 
To: Subject: Re: Stus-List So 
New England retirement/harbor perspectivesDate: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 12:38:17 
-0500Bob, My wife and I faced the exact same dilemma last year. Since I sailed 
out of the New Bedford YC many years ago we were looking at Padanarum/South 
Dartmouth on Buzzards Bay. We went to the Boston Boat Show and ran into a 
realtor there who put up a display. We told him what we were looking for and he 
suggested Bristol which up to them was only a sign I passes when we’d 
drive to Newport. We visited Bristol and found that it had everything we were 
looking for, restaurants, the Herreshorf Museum, Linden Place, Blythwold 
Mansion, The Bristol Yacht Club which is very much a sailors yacht club, a 14 
mile long bicycle trail that runs along the water all the way to Providence, 
beaches at Colt Park all in a very compact walkable town. Roger Williams 
University is also there which brings young people and culture. Finally the 
town is host to the longest continually running (238 years) 4th of July parade 
in the country and several weeks of concerts and fireworks leading up to the 
4th.. We liked it so much we ended up purchasing a home there that was built in 
1845 and we’re totaling renovating it. There are several homes available 
in town for less than $55K that are within walking distance to the restaurants 
(some of them quite good) and shops. We’ve been amazed at how many people 
retire in Bristol. Many of these folks are young active retirees and a lot of 
the social life revolves around the yacht club and the Herreshorf museum. In 
fact there seem to be a lot of college kids and a lot of 60 somethings and not 
a lot in between because the people who grow up in the area all move to 
Barrington and the schools there when they have school age kids. There is an 
event at the Yacht Club sometime in January for people who might be interested 
in joining. You might want to call the Stewart there to find out more details. 
Good luck,Dave SaltaireC&C 35 MK III From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob McLaughlinSent: 
Tuesday, December 31, 2013 6:09 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List 
So New England retirement/harbor perspectives I’m interested in 
locals’ opinions of good towns to retire to and good harbor suggestions 
to move my C&C to in the So New England area. We sailed our C&C 33-II for the 
past 22 years and last year moved up to a C&C 110 (6.5’ draft) with the 
intent of moving from the Midwest “back” in the next ~2-3 years to 
the southern New England area to retire 

Re: Stus-List Relatively new C&C owner

2014-01-02 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Hi Mac! welcome!  Seems you'll be a wealth of useful information!! 
DannyLolita1973 Viking 33Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: "Martin \\"Mac\\" McKenzie" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Relatively new C&C owner
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 18:13:20 -0800 (PST)


Hello All, I have a 1983 C&C 37 that I purchased 2 years ago from RCR yachts in 
Buffalo. It was named IMPACT and prior to that it was named FREEDOM SONG. I 
have named it WORTHY PEARL. I sail it on Lake Ontario out of Etobicoke Yacht 
Club. Prior to this boat I had a Niagara 26 WAVE WALKER that I sailed for 31 
years. My son has taken ownership of it now. I am still getting used to her but 
I think the boat sails extremely well. I have made a number of changes to the 
running rigging, having everything coming back to the cockpit. I sail mainly 
short handed and do a lot of single handed racing. My goal this year is to do 
the Lake Ontario 300 single handed with spinnaker. The biggest change I am 
making over the winter is moving the traveler from the cabin top to the 
cockpit. I found that the mid boom sheeting could not trim the main properly. 
With a loose footed main, the boom would bend and not tighten the leach. I will 
let you all know if it works. I will keep the original traveler on the cabin 
top just in case.  Mac McKenzie1983 C&C 37 Worthy Pearl___
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Re: Stus-List Lewmar winches on sale

2014-01-10 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
yea the 2 for 1 is usually referring to MSRP and you can usually beat the hell 
out of MSRP pricing if you wait for good sale.  still half off MSRP is pretty 
great price!

-- Original Message --
From: "Peter Fell" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lewmar  winches on sale
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 18:23:06 -0800


Here is the pricing ... it’s not directly available on the marine 
outfitters website – I got this via email from them: 
http://archive.constantcontact.com/fs147/1102741444792/archive/1116167405200.html
 Actually I don’t think it’s that much of a sale and it isn’t 
‘2 for 1’.  For example, Marine Outfitter’s price for a pair 
of chrome 30ST’s is $1369.99.  Their regular price is 900.99 each, 
currently on sale for $699.99. So they are taking an additional $30 off if you 
buy a pair. Note that Binnacle’s price for a single is currently $719. 
Binnacle has free shipping too. Holland Marine is also advertising ‘2 for 
1’ ... I can’t find pricing on their webpage or online catalogue 
but I’ve asked them to quote it. Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
C&C 27 MkIII From: Rick TaillieuSent: Wednesday, January 08, 2014 12:54 PMTo: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Lewmar winches on sale Marek,
 
I know Dave Wilbey (the owner) and they’re in Kingston Ontario (Collins 
Bay), their prices are quite competitive with other Canadian stores.
This 2 for 1 sale runs until the 18th.
 
Cheers
 
Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.
 
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic
Sent: January-08-14 14:25
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Lewmar winches on sale
 
If anyone is interested, Marine Outfitters (based in Hamilton) 
(www.marineoutfitters.ca/)  have a 2 for 1 special on Lewmar winches.
 
I think it is a “show pricing” (Toronto boat show is coming this 
weekend).
 
I cannot comment on their pricing for these winches, but usually they are quite 
competitive.
 
Marek (in Ottawa)
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com


Re: Stus-List Alternative Communication

2014-01-21 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
I always wondered why we did this through email and not on BB...LOLI just 
signed up! Thanks Stu! Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "Stu" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Alternative Communication
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2014 20:48:22 -0500


As most of you know, there is a Forum on the C&C Photo Album site.  This might 
be the place to put the autohelm topic. I can easily set up a new category and 
and the topic. Stu From: DavidSent: Tuesday, January 21, 2014 8:43 PMTo: CNC 
CNCSubject: Re: Stus-List homebrew autopilot I am all in for an 
alternative/parallel communication link that takes important, albeit focused, 
limited topics sidelined from from the e-mail trail.   Worth an annual fee for 
me.

Where do I sign up.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


From: efran...@mac.com
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2014 19:47:32 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List homebrew autopilot

 This was precisely my concern.  I have learned so many useful things on this 
list-serve that I have no interest in causing a problem (case in point, 
separating the prop shaft from the transmission coupler - would never have 
figured out how to do this on my own), and my own sense is that the folks 
interested in this new topic should interact in a different way. Not that all 
the listings are very interesting to me - discussions of racing handicaps and 
the like are boring to me, but certainly highly relevant to a significant group 
of the listers.  So I just skip over them.  But building DIY autopilots or 
autonomous model sailboats is quite different. So let me look into what it 
takes to set up a very simple site where the interested folks can interact 
without using this list.  Please allow me a couple of more posts to stay in 
touch with people who are potentially interested about this while I set it up, 
but then we will move it. Thanks, Eric
From: "Pete Shelquist" To: 
Subject: Stus-List Homebrew autopilot...let them talk
Message-ID: <000301cf16f7$12073870$3615a950$@shelqu...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

Bill, Others:
No one's being swamped and the list isn't being monopolized.  Also, this
conversation is as C&C specific as the recent conversation on Harken roller
furler, adjustable car leads, AGM batteries and a host of other dribble.

Obviously, there are a number of members on this list that are interested
and want to share information.  It, like most conversations, will probably
die off in the near future.  Personally, I understand less than half of what
they're talking about, but I read and take in what I can and delete the
rest.  Others are welcome to do the same.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2014 3:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Homebrew autopilot

Sorry, but I strongly disagree. One of the most popular reasons for people
to unsubscribe from this list over the years has been that the sheer volume
of emails is too much to handle. To monopolize this C&C specific discussion
list with the nuts and bolts communications generated by such a (non-C&C
specific) project would be inappropriate, to put it as mildly as possible.
It needs to have it's own home. 
Swamping this list is not the answer.

Bill Bina

On 1/21/2014 4:02 PM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:
I posit that a mailing list like this is also an archive. Judging by the 
traffic that this thread has already generated in one day I wouldn't assume 
that it's not an interesting topic to other listers or that those with little 
technical know-how either have nothing to contribute or nothing to learn. 
Nevermind the people that might be googling for this topic a year or two from 
now. I for one would like to see how this goes so my vote is keep the 
discussion here as long as it's practical. I understand that there might be a 
need to share files etc. Maybe you guys want to consider an open project. Just 
putting it out there.SteveSuhana, C&C 32Toronto 
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Re: Stus-List homebrew autopilot - Now Stu's C&C Photo Album Forum

2014-01-21 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
wow,  I'm just perusing the forum over at c&c photoalbum and is kind of light 
on the postings.  we could really do all this bantering over there.  It is just 
as easy as sending an email really and the amount of conversation that goes on 
here would really bring that forum to life. Anyway, just a suggestion that 
maybe we try and use the forum... Anyone else think this might be worth a try? 
Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Eric Frank 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List homebrew autopilot
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2014 19:47:32 -0500


 This was precisely my concern.  I have learned so many useful things on this 
list-serve that I have no interest in causing a problem (case in point, 
separating the prop shaft from the transmission coupler - would never have 
figured out how to do this on my own), and my own sense is that the folks 
interested in this new topic should interact in a different way. Not that all 
the listings are very interesting to me - discussions of racing handicaps and 
the like are boring to me, but certainly highly relevant to a significant group 
of the listers.  So I just skip over them.  But building DIY autopilots or 
autonomous model sailboats is quite different. So let me look into what it 
takes to set up a very simple site where the interested folks can interact 
without using this list.  Please allow me a couple of more posts to stay in 
touch with people who are potentially interested about this while I set it up, 
but then we will move it. Thanks, Eric 
From: "Pete Shelquist" To: 
Subject: Stus-List Homebrew autopilot...let them talk
Message-ID: <000301cf16f7$12073870$3615a950$@shelqu...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

Bill, Others:
No one's being swamped and the list isn't being monopolized.  Also, this
conversation is as C&C specific as the recent conversation on Harken roller
furler, adjustable car leads, AGM batteries and a host of other dribble.

Obviously, there are a number of members on this list that are interested
and want to share information.  It, like most conversations, will probably
die off in the near future.  Personally, I understand less than half of what
they're talking about, but I read and take in what I can and delete the
rest.  Others are welcome to do the same.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2014 3:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Homebrew autopilot

Sorry, but I strongly disagree. One of the most popular reasons for people
to unsubscribe from this list over the years has been that the sheer volume
of emails is too much to handle. To monopolize this C&C specific discussion
list with the nuts and bolts communications generated by such a (non-C&C
specific) project would be inappropriate, to put it as mildly as possible.
It needs to have it's own home. 
Swamping this list is not the answer.

Bill Bina

On 1/21/2014 4:02 PM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:
I posit that a mailing list like this is also an archive. Judging by the 
traffic that this thread has already generated in one day I wouldn't assume 
that it's not an interesting topic to other listers or that those with little 
technical know-how either have nothing to contribute or nothing to learn. 
Nevermind the people that might be googling for this topic a year or two from 
now. I for one would like to see how this goes so my vote is keep the 
discussion here as long as it's practical. I understand that there might be a 
need to share files etc. Maybe you guys want to consider an open project. Just 
putting it out there.SteveSuhana, C&C 32Toronto ___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


Re: Stus-List homebrew autopilot - Now Stu's C&C Photo Album Forum

2014-01-21 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
"new and fresh"  LOLI just realized, if we sign up, Stu has to approve us all.  
If I can be of any assistance in any added work or effort on your part stu, 
just let me what I might be able to help you with. I really think it is a far 
better way to go,  I believe we can post photos and links and share info more 
easily on a bulletin board/forum type of format. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Curtis 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List homebrew autopilot - Now Stu's C&C Photo Album Forum
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2014 21:38:26 -0500


I often wondered why folks don't use that format. Its what'z new and fresh? 
�I even posted on there a few years back why no one used the site. I 
thought that the C&C community was non-existent. Then I got an e-mail that we 
are allover here.�

On Tue, Jan 21, 2014 at 9:22 PM, djhaug...@juno.com  wrote:
wow, �I'm just perusing the forum over at c&c photoalbum and is kind of 
light on the postings. �we could really do all this bantering over 
there. �It is just as easy as sending an email really and the amount of 
conversation that goes on here would really bring that forum to 
life.�Anyway, just a suggestion that maybe we try and use the 
forum...�Anyone else think this might be worth a try?�Danny

-- Original Message --
 From: Eric Frank 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List homebrew autopilot
 Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2014 19:47:32 -0500

�This was precisely my concern. �I have learned so many useful 
things on this list-serve that I have no interest in causing a problem (case in 
point, separating the prop shaft from the transmission coupler - would never 
have figured out how to do this on my own), and my own sense is that the folks 
interested in this new topic should interact in a different way. Not that all 
the listings are very interesting to me - discussions of racing handicaps and 
the like are boring to me, but certainly highly relevant to a significant group 
of the listers. �So I just skip over them. �But building DIY 
autopilots or autonomous model sailboats is quite different.�So let me 
look into what it takes to set up a very simple site where the interested folks 
can interact without using this list. �Please allow me a couple of more 
posts to stay in touch with people who are potentially interested about this 
while I set it up, but then we will move it.�Thanks,�Eric�
From: "Pete Shelquist" To: 
Subject: Stus-List Homebrew autopilot...let them talk
Message-ID: <000301cf16f7$12073870$3615a950$@shelqu...@comcast.net>
 Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

Bill, Others:
No one's being swamped and the list isn't being monopolized. �Also, this
conversation is as C&C specific as the recent conversation on Harken roller
 furler, adjustable car leads, AGM batteries and a host of other dribble.

Obviously, there are a number of members on this list that are interested
and want to share information. �It, like most conversations, will 
probably
 die off in the near future. �Personally, I understand less than half of 
what
they're talking about, but I read and take in what I can and delete the
rest. �Others are welcome to do the same.



-Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2014 3:45 PM
To:�cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Homebrew autopilot

Sorry, but I strongly disagree. One of the most popular reasons for people
to unsubscribe from this list over the years has been that the sheer volume
of emails is too much to handle. To monopolize this C&C specific discussion
 list with the nuts and bolts communications generated by such a (non-C&C
specific) project would be inappropriate, to put it as mildly as possible.
It needs to have it's own home.�
Swamping this list is not the answer.
 
Bill Bina

On 1/21/2014 4:02 PM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:
I posit that a mailing list like this is also an archive. Judging by�the 
traffic that this thread has already generated in one day I�wouldn't 
assume that it's not an interesting topic to other listers or�that those 
with little technical know-how either have nothing to�contribute or 
nothing to learn. Nevermind the people that might be�googling for this 
topic a year or two from now. I for one would like�to see how this goes 
so my vote is keep the discussion here as long as�it's practical. I 
understand that there might be a need to share files�etc. Maybe you guys 
want to consider an open project. Just putting it�out there.SteveSuhana, 
C&C 32Toronto�
___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 -- 
At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much. 
-��Robin Lee Graham

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Re: Stus-List homebrew autopilot - Now Stu's C&C Photo Album Forum

2014-01-22 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
didn't think of that Wal,  HM

well that alone makes it not viable...

Anyway, back to our regularly scheduled program...

Danny


-- Original Message --
From: Wally Bryant 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List homebrew autopilot - Now Stu's C&C Photo Album Forum
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2014 14:19:09 +

Danny - I think we tried that when the list moved over from Sailnet, but 
went back to the email format. It won't work for me, for sure.  Outside 
of major cities, my internet is extremely slow and a web based format 
just doesn't work.  It's also handy to save important information on the 
laptop for later reference.

Wal

Danny wrote:
> I really think it is a far better way to go,


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Re: Stus-List homebrew autopilot - Now Stu's C&C Photo Album Forum

2014-01-22 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
I use an internet based email and I do filter my c&c email but, if I'm not 
logged in and I use my phone to access my email, they all go into the inbox 
anyway.  I end up having to do a search for Stus-List while logged in to the 
web version and then move them all

-- Original Message --
From: Stevan Plavsa 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List homebrew autopilot - Now Stu's C&C Photo Album Forum
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2014 09:32:24 -0500


Email filters.  I work in IT and I hear this stuff about "flooding my inbox" 
all the time and it's a simple matter of using email filters. If anyone needs 
some guidance on how to set that up I'm happy to help. I have 2,669 UNREAD 
messages in my "C&C" folder and they don't interfere with a thing. Anything 
that hits my inbox (email from family and friends) I get notifications for on 
my phone etc, but not the C&C list. The way I have it set up I have to click 
into the folder to see what's going on, so I can ignore the list for days if 
I'm busy. You can ignore the email you're not interested in very easily and not 
have to resort to telling people to shut up. Not all of us have sailed for 40 
years, or had fathers, family or friends that introduced us to sailing. Maybe 
you take for granted how much you learned throughout your sailing career simply 
by "osmosis", from your community. Not all of us are so lucky so we rely on the 
internet. This list is the sailing community I didn't have growing up. Many 
thanks to those that contribute, I've learned a lot on this list. SteveSuhana, 
C&C 32Toronto

On Tue, Jan 21, 2014 at 9:52 PM, djhaug...@juno.com  wrote:
"new and fresh"  LOLI just realized, if we sign up, Stu has to approve us all.  
If I can be of any assistance in any added work or effort on your part stu, 
just let me what I might be able to help you with. I really think it is a far 
better way to go,  I believe we can post photos and links and share info more 
easily on a bulletin board/forum type of format. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Curtis 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List homebrew autopilot - Now Stu's 
C&C Photo Album Forum
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2014 21:38:26 -0500

I often wondered why folks don't use that format. Its what'z new and fresh? 
�I even posted on there a few years back why no one used the site. I 
thought that the C&C community was non-existent. Then I got an e-mail that we 
are allover here.�

On Tue, Jan 21, 2014 at 9:22 PM, djhaug...@juno.com  wrote:
wow, �I'm just perusing the forum over at c&c photoalbum and is kind of 
light on the postings. �we could really do all this bantering over 
there. �It is just as easy as sending an email really and the amount of 
conversation that goes on here would really bring that forum to 
life.�Anyway, just a suggestion that maybe we try and use the 
forum...�Anyone else think this might be worth a try?�Danny

-- Original Message --
 From: Eric Frank 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List homebrew autopilot
 Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2014 19:47:32 -0500

�This was precisely my concern. �I have learned so many useful 
things on this list-serve that I have no interest in causing a problem (case in 
point, separating the prop shaft from the transmission coupler - would never 
have figured out how to do this on my own), and my own sense is that the folks 
interested in this new topic should interact in a different way. Not that all 
the listings are very interesting to me - discussions of racing handicaps and 
the like are boring to me, but certainly highly relevant to a significant group 
of the listers. �So I just skip over them. �But building DIY 
autopilots or autonomous model sailboats is quite different.�So let me 
look into what it takes to set up a very simple site where the interested folks 
can interact without using this list. �Please allow me a couple of more 
posts to stay in touch with people who are potentially interested about this 
while I set it up, but then we will move it.�Thanks,�Eric�
From: "Pete Shelquist" To: 
Subject: Stus-List Homebrew autopilot...let them talk
Message-ID: <000301cf16f7$12073870$3615a950$@shelqu...@comcast.net>
 Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

Bill, Others:
No one's being swamped and the list isn't being monopolized. �Also, this
conversation is as C&C specific as the recent conversation on Harken roller
 furler, adjustable car leads, AGM batteries and a host of other dribble.

Obviously, there are a number of members on this list that are interested
and want to share information. �It, like most conversations, will 
probably
 die off in the near future. �Personally, I understand less than half of 
what
they're talking about, but I read and take in what I can and delete the

Re: Stus-List Rudder removal

2014-01-27 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
I removed my rudder in the fall and was surprised to find no bearings.  The 
thing was just hung through a fiberglass tube with a pin up at the top of the 
rudder post.  The pin rested on top of 2 quarter inch thick washers.  That was 
it, simple and easy.  The hardest part was removing the quadrant for the wheel 
steering.  I took some measurements and I'm going to try and have some new 
washers made up.  I'm going to try and have bushings made for top and bottom 
that actually slid up into the tube but, I really don't think it is necessary, 
it's just me over thinking things again.

Maybe you could take some photos of your rudder and post them somewhere?

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Jason Shoemake 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Rudder removal
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2014 19:30:33 -0600

I have a question for the vast knowledge found here. My recently acquired '78 
29 MK1 is on the hard with bottom, now clean as a baby's booty, ready for 
paint. There's a rust looking substance on and around the rudder. Where could 
this be coming from? Is it possible to remove the rudder and replace bearings, 
bushings and the like? Where can I find replacement parts? Any advice, or help 
- I can have an endless supply of beer - will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jason Shoemake
1978 C&C 29 MK1
South Mississippi 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Documentation

2014-01-28 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
When I changed the Documentation over to me as the new owner, The Broker/Marina 
owner got on line and made the changes in about 10 minutes and the fee was $75 
if I recall correctly.  I renewed last year and it was free of charge.  I'm 
waiting for the renewal now.  Don't they come in around now?

-- Original Message --
From: Chuck S 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Documentation
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2014 21:16:30 + (UTC)


I see many responses to your request.
My experience:  I applied to redocument my vessel to change the hailing port 
and owner's name and address.  The fee was around $80 and took 6 weeks in 2003. 
 Free to renew each year since.  I think there is a fee (of $80) to make any 
changes like boat name, owner's name, and/or address or hailing port.  So make 
all your changes at once, and use your hometown instead of marina town and you 
will be set.  

Otherwise, the USCG send you a renewal letter and you sign that and return it 
and they send you a new embossed, two color, document.  Pretty neat.

In New Jersey, I still have to pay the annual registration fee of $35, but I 
don't have to display the ugly 8 digit registration number on the hull. 

You're not supposed to, but I have the doc laminated at Staples each year to 
waterproof it and keep it on board.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJFrom: "Harry Hallgring" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2014 8:27:37 AM
Subject: Stus-List Documentation

Mirage was documented since day one. It is now time to renew it. I have never 
done this before. Is it an easy process, or is it worth having a service do it 
for a fee? Harry 
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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4

2014-01-29 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
They aren't that ready to come by but an internet search its all you can do 
really.

I ended up buying a moyer exchange engine after searching and searching.  
however, out was april and I didn't want to lose to much time screwing around 
with a used engine.

Moyer also sells new heads...

Danny

T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network

- Reply message -
From: "Aaron Rouhi" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4
Date: Tue, Jan 28, 2014 5:57 pm
My good friend just lost his Atomic 4 on a 35-2 (cracked head and other major 
issues). He's looking for another Atomic 4 as a replacement. Any leads is 
greatly appreciated.

Cheers,Aaron R.1979 30-MK1Annapolis, MD___
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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4

2014-01-29 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Every time someone brings up the A4, the diesel suggestions start to flow.  LOL 
Okay the guy needs a head, he can buy a completely new aftermarket one from 
Moyer for $450 and be back on the water in, literally hours after receiving 
it...  OOORRR...  he can buy a used diesel for $2500 and replace that and all 
the fuel lines and fuel tank and filters and whatever else for a minimum of 
another probably $1500 or $2000 in parts and periferals like what prop, shaft, 
whatever, and install it all himself in, oh i don't know, 2 or 3 weekends...  
Then there is all the adjustments and testing another weekend at least. What is 
the gain,  It's sail boat, isn't the idea to be sailing and not chugging along 
under power for days at a time?  I mean the diesel with most certainly add to 
the value of your boat, but probably no more than the cost to convert it.  The 
Atomic 4 is a great motor and, in my opinion, better suited for coastal 
cruising and day-sailing.  I guess if your going to do some passage making 
then, yes, the diesel would be a good decision.  Then there is all the rhetoric 
about unsafe gasoline in your boat and fuel consumption.  Of course there is 
truth to those statements but, how many boats do we hear about exploding every 
year?  Fuel consumption?  again, if your passage making, but if you're just 
using it to get in and out harbors or to motor home for a few hours when there 
is no wind, I really don't see the benefit.  You can get gas at far more 
marinas than diesel too...  Besides, they don't stink and they're quieter than 
a diesel! End of rant,  Sorry I couldn't stop myself...  LOL Go A4!!!  Danny!! 
P.S.  Just for full disclosure,  My brand new A4 from Moyer STILL doesn't run 
the way I think it should...

-- Original Message --
From: "dwight" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2014 10:41:43 -0400


 
 
OK Joe, same for the Universal M4-30…I got one in my 35 MKII and it fits 
well in the space with no apparent mods to what it sits on…it is also 
basically a Kubota engine I believe
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe
 Sent: January 29, 2014 10:11 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4
 
Nothing is an *exact* drop in, but Beta Marine has IMHO the best “almost 
an A4” diesels. They are based on Kubota blocks.
I lucked out and got a very nice A4 that had been rebuilt as a project by an 
engineering officer for $1500 on Craigslist. I bought it within about 45 
minutes of the ad going up.
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
 Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 8:08 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4
 
Josh
 
If so, I believe the Universal M4-30 is a drop in replacement for the A4 on a 
35 MKII.  I know the previous owner of my 35 MKII after several (4) 
disappointments with A4 replacement engines or heads took the plunge and so I 
ended up getting a 35MKII with a diesel already installed and that little 4 
cylinder has lots of power for the boat and runs quiet and smooth as 
silk…he also changed to the H5 Autoprop when he installed the 
diesel…that’s a really good combo…It does require a 
significant expense to do the job, but why not, especially if ones intends to 
keep the boat, you never regret having a could auxiliary propulsion system 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
 Sent: January 29, 2014 8:14 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4
 
I know he's looking for an Atomic 4 but I thought he might find value in 
converting to diesel.
http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=221361267650&globalID=EBAY-MOTOR
http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=131102768897&globalID=EBAY-MOTOR
Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 Solomons, MD
On Jan 28, 2014 5:57 PM, "Aaron Rouhi"  wrote:
My good friend just lost his Atomic 4 on a 35-2 (cracked head and other major 
issues). He's looking for another Atomic 4 as a replacement. Any leads is 
greatly appreciated.
 
 Cheers,
Aaron R.
1979 30-MK1
Annapolis, MD

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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4

2014-01-29 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Thanks Steven, I just sent him a message.  Someone asked on the forum before me 
but I told him I'd take them if that didn't work out. We'll see.. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Stevan Plavsa 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2014 14:01:16 -0500


Five hours up the coast but it may be of 
help:http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?s=5456c608b8d8b28edafcd1d3292c1a74&t=7991
 I would buy those parts if the seller was close to me. $150 for all that stuff 
is a deal and I have no spares. SteveSuhana, C&C 32Toronto

On Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 1:55 PM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
Plenty of used motors if your friend doesn't mind a bit of travel. This link 
has the results of a search for "atomic 4" on craigslist across the entire 
U.S.http://tinyurl.com/craigslist-atomic4 Your friend might also have luck 
poking through the websites of his local yacht clubs. They typically have 
classifieds sections and I've often seen stuff there that didn't make it to 
craigslist. Though, craigslist is the first place I'de look. On the topic of 
the venerable old A4:When I purchased Suhana I opted for the boat with the A4 
because my thinking was that a 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor. The 
premium for a later model 32 with an originaldiesel wasn't justified in my 
opinion. Any old motor is a liability (mechanically). The later model 32s were 
all 10k more than my boat, that's the price of a brand new diesel so why would 
I buy an old one? The later 32s have things mine doesn't like an oven and 
refrigeration (IIRC) but those aren't worth 10k either, especially if they're 
original. So for me it was a financial decision. I do appreciate that the old 
A4 is quiet however and so far, easy to work on. Oh, and plenty of support on 
the Moyer Marine forum. Steve
Suhana, C&C 32Toronto

On Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 12:48 PM, Della Barba, Joe  
wrote:
Gasoline is dangerous. So is *propane*, which many of you have. Be careful with 
both of them ;)
 The A4 runs through about 3/4-1 gal/hr at cruise FYI.
 I once listened to a speech about the safety of diesel from a Cabo Rico owner 
that stored his dinghy gas tank in the cabin!
 
 Joe Della Barba
 Coquina C&C 35 MK I
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of OldSteveH
 Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 12:06 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4
 
 Three years ago I was doing work up my mast about 100 ft away from a 40` 
wooden Chriscraft which exploded during refuelling.
 It was shocking and there was no warning for those nearby. My point - it's 
more than rhetoric or something you only hear about. It can actually happen.
 
 Second observation - a friend rebuilt his A4 last winter, reinstalled in the 
spring and found out his tranny was seized. R&R all over again.
 The message - take the time to go over everything and rebuild/refurbish as 
necessary. You don't want to take it out twice. Of course same goes for any 
engine.
 
 3rd - my 3GM will use about 1/4 tank of fuel motoring and motor sailing for
 13 hours. How will that compare with gasoline - I think there's a big 
difference.
 
 Not criticizing the idea of keeping an A4, just being aware of some risks and 
differences.
 
 Cheers,
 
 Steve Hood
 S/V Diamond Girl
 C&C 34
 Lions Head ON
 
 
 
 ------
 
 Message: 1
 Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2014 15:26:16 GMT
 From: "djhaug...@juno.com" 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4
 Message-ID: <20140129.102616.2156...@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
 
 Every time someone brings up the A4, the diesel suggestions start to flow.
 LOL Okay the guy needs a head, he can buy a completely new aftermarket one 
from Moyer for $450 and be back on the water in, literally hours after 
receiving it... �OOORRR... �he can buy a used diesel for $2500 
and replace that and all the fuel lines and fuel tank and filters and whatever 
else for a minimum of another probably $1500 or $2000 in parts and periferals 
like what prop, shaft, whatever, and install it all himself in, oh i don't know,
 2 or 3 weekends... �Then there is all the adjustments and testing 
another weekend at least. What is the gain, �It's sail boat, isn't the 
idea to be sailing and not chugging along under power for days at a time? 
�I mean the diesel with most certainly add to the value of your boat, 
but probably no more than the cost to convert it. �The Atomic 4 is a 
great motor and, in my opinion, better suited for coastal cruising and 
day-sailing. �I guess if your going to do some passage making then, yes, 
the diesel would be a good decision. �Then there is all the rhetoric 
about unsafe gasoline in your

Re: Stus-List Raymarine e7 Recall

2014-01-29 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
my guess it you'll be getting a plain packaging on the replacement and they 
wanted you to have all your original packaging as they weren't going to be 
using it.  

-- Original Message --
From: Harry Hallgring 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine e7 Recall
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2014 18:05:49 -0500


So I mailed my e7 MFD back to the Raymarine service center in New Hampshire 
last week in its original box. Today I received a slightly larger brown 
cardboard box from Raymarine.  I opened it to find my original box inside which 
was empty. Odd???

Harry Sent from my old iPhone
On Jan 28, 2014, at 16:04, Chuck S  wrote:

Hi Joel,
What a great offer and I'm think it's very cool you present it to the C&C 
owner's list!  I'm interested but I get very limited time off from work.  
Your plan is to leave Bermuda, June 15th and 16th?  
Q1.  When do you plan on reaching Norfolk?  June 24, 25?
Q2.  Do you want crew to disembark in Norfolk or stay on and help reach 
Annapolis?
Q3.  Boat name and C&C model?

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJFrom: "Joel Aronson" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2014 12:12:38 PM
Subject: Stus-List Delivery crew needed Bermuda to Annapolis

All, My race crew for the Annapolis to Bermuda race is all set, and includes 3 
fellow C&C owners.  I'm looking for 1 or 2 sailors to help with the return 
trip.  The plan is to leave June 15 or 16 and sail to Annapolis via Norfolk (to 
clear Customs).  If you are interested in joining us for the return, please 
contact me off-list. -- 
Joel 
301 541 8551joel.aron...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 history was Marine vs Automotive parts

2013-05-17 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
YEA!!  Thats some history!  I'm a proud A4 owner.  Its like the harley davidson 
in boating!

-- Original Message --
From: dre...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 history was Marine vs Automotive parts
Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 11:41:34 -0400


Hi,  This is from Wikipedia:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Atomic_4   
The Atomic 4 is descended from an earlier Universal Motor Company design called 
the Utility Four, which was used extensively in World War II by the United 
States Navy and allies to power the lifeboats for the ships, barges, and 
tankers of many navies and merchant marine fleets. The Utility Four was 
replaced by the Atomic 4 in 1947.
-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL 
On May 17, 2013, at 8:33 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:Date: Fri, 17 
May 2013 09:23:05 -0300From: "Hoyt, Mike" To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Marine vs Automotive 
partsMessage-ID:<4cdebb6b0f16c541ba8f985b72705d5416021...@hfxexc02.impgroup.com>Content-Type:
 text/plain; charset="us-ascii"I once heard a story that the Atomic 4 was the 
power plant in the WW IIlanding craft.  Anyone know if this is true? 
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Re: Stus-List Pic of Calypso from Race to the Straits 2013

2013-05-22 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Thats a great looking shot of a great looking boat!

Please note: message attached

From: Martin DeYoung 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Pic of Calypso from Race to the Straits 2013
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 00:12:41 +


Here is link to a pic of an old C&C going to weather.  (I purchased copies from 
Jan's for both my wall and computer desk top.)

We were racing double-handed.  The spin pole is on the mast to keep the heavy 
#1 sheets from tangling in the baby stay.  I estimate we tacked 25 to 30 times 
over the 30 mile course out to Port Townsend.  Fortunately the return race on 
Sunday was all downwind giving the crew a well-deserved rest from grinding.

http://janpix.smugmug.com/Boats/Race-to-the-Straits-2013/29291605_WVLQ3n#!i=2497822185&k=Dn8nxVV&lb=1&s=L

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle

[cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

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Re: Stus-List Bigger Boat Question-Warning, a little long winded!

2013-05-29 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Hi Mark, When I decided to move up from my O'Day 22, I started looking at 27' 
boats.  Then at the encouragement of my wife we decided to consider even larger 
boats.  Then at the advice of some seasoned boaters, which was to go as big as 
you feel comfortable with, started looking at even larger boats.  So, we 
started shopping for a boat, on and off, for probably 2 years.  We saw a lot of 
peoples garbage they wanted us to pay to have the privilege of removing for 
them, we saw boats grossly overpriced, we looked at boats out of our price 
range to see what you get for your money.  We discovered you simply cannot take 
anyone at their word on condition.  (after all, these people are emotionally 
attached to their boats and probably in denial, not so much dishonest) In the 
end, we decided to go up to a 34' boat because that was largest boat allowed at 
the marina where I kept the O'Day...(No we aren't there anymore, we ended up 
keeping Lolita at the same marina where we found her, we love it there!) What 
happened for me is, I became more familiar with bigger boats by, reading about 
them and visiting them.  I discovered things that bother my wife and I and 
things that weren't such a big deal.  Some things she felt more strongly about 
and vice versa. Then, one day, after looking at about 7 or 8 boats including an 
O'Day 32, a Rhodes 30, a couple of Pearsons a C&C 32, among others, we were 
thinking that there were about 3 boats we could potentially be happy with.  The 
O'Day seemed roomy and pretty modern, the Pearsons were 2 ends of a spectrum, 
one seemed more modern and the other a solid boat in good condition with no 
frills.  The C&C felt out of our price range, a little over priced but, we 
might try negotiating with the guy... Then we went to look at a Viking 33 and 
the Rhodes 32 at the same yard.  We found the Rhodes, but couldn't get inside, 
it looked okay.  Then we found the Viking.  I had read up on Vikings before we 
came and found them to be reputable, well respected and of good construction, 
not to mention the C&C design aspect.  I was pretty hopeful about this boat so, 
I was a little biased.   It was pretty cool how it went;  We were tired and 
ready to give up the search for the day.  I said "well I'm going aboard" and 
Karen said, "I'm only going up the ladder if it is really worth it." So, I 
climb aboard, looked around, went below, come back out and say, "I think you 
should come up."  She's like, "really, is really worth it?"  I say, " I think 
you should come up."  This went on for about 5 or six rounds.  I started 
walking on the deck, looking for soft spots and there were none, it had some 
old electronics and I was impressed because my last boat had none.  It had 
wheel steering, full, almost new canvass and she did not feel overwhelmingly 
big.  She is pretty narrow and I think that is what made her feel more 
manageable from a scale perspective.   I said again, "I think you should come 
up."  So, finally, she did, The thing had peeling paint all over the place 
below and the head was disgusting.  But, somehow the boat was still appealing 
to us.  Karen knew what kind of restoration work I was capable of after the 
O'Day 22 experience and was able to see past the cosmetics and agreed this was 
probably the happy medium we'd been looking for, (I should mention, we both 
wanted a boat that was considered fast).  Well, we made an offer, did the 
survey which came back great and we bought the boat.  At this point I wish I 
could say it was all rainbows, fair winds and beautiful sailing...  However, 
she was a severely neglected girl, and needed everything we knew about, plus 
new sails and a new engine.  It took me all spring and pretty much the whole 
summer to get her launched, (needless to say, wifey was none too happy about my 
having "wasted the whole summer" working on her and she is very gun shy about 
it happening this year!). Lolita is a good, solid, and fast boat and I know her 
inside and out now.  She ended up costing me well over my initial budget but, 
in the end I think I have the investment right around market value, maybe 
somewhat more than the market would bear but, i do have brand new sails, 
rigging, motor, canvass and this year, electronics!  So, that would be the 
upgrades of a normal used boat, (or so I like to believe!) I guess my point, in 
all this, is that searching for and buying a used boat seems to be a process, 
an ever changing search for something that seems to fit your needs.  You really 
start to change your perspective as you look at boats and talk to they're 
owners and yacht broker and begin to really define what you're looking for.   
Old boats are an investment of time, money and emotions.  Some would say I must 
be nuts to put in the efforts to such an old boat, but, then we have this pack 
of wing nuts who advise, encourage, compliment and give smack up side the head 
once in while that help keep us all feeling sane, and helped.  I co

Re: Stus-List Bigger Boat Question

2013-05-29 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Or, think of the happiness you get when you sell the old boat and buy the 
new...it is a double your happiness event!!!

-- Original Message --
From: Andrew Burton 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bigger Boat Question
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 08:13:22 -0400


I can't really help with your decision, but I would like to correct the 
"happiest day" nonsense. I've rarely been more heartbroken than when I watched 
someone else leave with my much-loved boat. In addition to Peregrine, I still 
have a 30-foot daysailer I can't bear to part with because she's such an 
exquisite boat to sail and look at and she's been a huge part of my life for 18 
years.AndyC&C 40Peregrine

Andrew Burton61 W NarragansettNewport, RI USA02840 
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401 965-5260
On May 29, 2013, at 0:29, Russ & Melody  wrote:

Hi Mark,

 As you already know there is no simple answer. 

But here are the dimension for the perfect boat:Cocktails for 6Dinner for 
4Sleeps 2Seriously, 30' is ideal for light sailing with a weekend & a bit away. 
Bigger gets more toys tolerated and comfort underway (especially if you 
actually go sailing if it's windy). For 20 grand your best bet is the one that 
has been maintained (vs say, size weighted consideration) so to get the best 
value. Good sails can be the difference in the bargain... only 3 new cruising 
sails are a minimum 6 grand from the orient.

 Personally I went from a 60' cruising cutter to a 35 mk-1 and love her. 
However I have a 40' motor-sailor sitting in the back yard awaiting my 
semi-retirement where I can spend 4 5 months aboard, cruising the west coast.

 Your mileage may vary. Enjoy the hunt.

 Cheers, Russ 
 Sweet 35 mk-1

 At 09:01 PM 28/05/2013, you wrote:

I'm still looking at boats, reading emails from this list and learning lots.  
Right now I'm sitting back, watching the market, looking to new boats that come 
up, and trying to figure out where I want to end up.  
 Maybe some more experienced listers can offer some thoughts (on or off list).

 I know that everyone has there own criteria - but I'm trying to figure out the 
right boat for me.  My Mirage 24 is quite small - 5ft of headroom (only my 8 yr 
old can stand up), not enough space to sleep 5 (me and 4 kids), lacks an 
enclosed head, no functional galley, noisy and smelly outboard.
 I envision wanting to do some more sailing - little further out of the 
harbour, some overnights (effectively boat camping with the kids), maybe a long 
weekend away with the girlfriend.

 But we've all heard the cracks "2 best days in a boater life - the day he/she 
buys their boat, and the day they sell it", or "A boat is a hole in the water 
you pour money into" - not really encouraging. So, why, if they are so terrible 
does everyone get 2 foot itis?

 Feel free to espouse on why did you end up with the boat you have? Do you wish 
you stayed smaller/cheaper/simpler?
 What would you say to yourself if you could go back and offer advice? Was this 
the best decision ever?  If you could make a change what do you want? A bigger 
galley? Bigger cockpit?

 My temptation was to find a 29-30 foot boat that would work, thinking that 
would last me for years with the kids and still be a manageable size when they 
are off.  Keeping costs reasonable, maintenance manageable and enough boat to 
venture further afield.

 Right now I could buy a local C&C 33 (with and Atomic4), or a local C&C 30 
(diesel), or there are 29's, 30's and 34's within reach - the prices are 
similar.  I plan on climbing aboard a few different boats to get a feel for 
size and space, but I'm trying to figure out what I'm getting into without 
having to learn the painfully hard way!  I'm leaning towards a diesel (only 
because that seems to be common opinion and gas on my current boat has it's 
downsides), wheel steering and something fairly stable (so kids and girlfriend 
aren't barfing over the side -- which I gather eliminates the 29's from the 
list).  Price wise I'd like to stay below $2.

 I have the cash set aside to buy the boat, but clearly bigger is not always 
better, the maintenance and insidious upkeep costs can add up quickly.  I was 
able to do a quick sand and bottom paint on my M24 in 2.5 hrs.  Assuming the 
cost and workload multiply with the displacement I'm guessing a 30ft (being 
twice the displacement) would be double the effort, a 34ft 3 times the work.  
At what point is it more work and you wish for a smaller/cheaper boat?

 Thanks in advance for the advice,

 Mark

 

 

 

 -- 

 -
   Dr. Mark Bodnar
 B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
 Bedford Chiropractic
  www.bedfordchiro.ca
 -

 There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana

 
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Re: Stus-List Mirage Progress

2013-06-03 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Harry, WOW!!  Out-Effin'-Standing!!! She is Gorgeous!!! Danny

Please note: message attached

From: Harry Hallgring 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Mirage Progress
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2013 02:07:33 + (GMT)

"Done" is relative...but we're "done enough" to launch tomorrow!MIRAGE Paint ProgressHarryMIRAGENortheast 39Newport,RI
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Re: Stus-List Circumnavigating Vancouver Island

2013-06-03 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Jim, All the best in your adventures!  I can't wait to read your blog updates!

-- Original Message --
From: Jim Watts 
To: 1 CnC List 
Subject: Stus-List Circumnavigating Vancouver Island
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2013 17:06:36 -0700


We're heading out at the beginning of July, going around counterclockwise about 
1 1/2 times if everything works out.
Anyone wanting to follow our adventures can check out our 
blog...paradigmchafe.blogspot.ca
 I'm going to try and keep it as current as possible, but there's probably 
going to be some times when I just can't get to an internet connection. I'm not 
sure we can survive without the internet.� 
 Anyone else going around or going to be in those parts when we're passing 
through? Please throw us bacon. 


-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
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Re: Stus-List Bigger Boat Question

2013-06-04 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
These are very good points Rich.

I'm wondering if a shared ownership thing might be a better solution for you 
Mark.  You basically pay about $4500 a year for a certain amount of days.  You 
then only have to schedule your time for sailing and the boat share company 
takes care of the rest.  It's a pretty good deal really because storage alone 
for a 32 foot boat will come in at about $4K to $6k a year.  then there is 
upkeep.

The boat share will get you into relatively recent model years on like a 
Beneteau or something.

This seems well suited to your current situation in my opinion.  Just google 
boat share and see what comes up.

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA




-- Original Message --
From: Knowles Rich 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bigger Boat Question
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 11:22:01 -0300

Mark:  With respect, I think you have a conundrum to deal with. You want a 
bigger boat for all the right reasons, but appear to be unwilling or unable to 
make the required investment in time, passion and money to make your dream a 
reality. All the commentary you have received to date is from people who have 
experience, and that advice has been pretty much spot on, with some excellent 
offerings. 

"Toy" may be your descriptor, but a 30' boat needs care and attention and will 
make both routine and unanticipated demands on your time, patience and 
resources. 

Your current boat just might be your best solution for the moment, even if it 
doesn't fulfil all your dreams.  

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-06-03, at 23:27, "Dr. Mark Bodnar"  wrote:

> activities.
> No matter what I just don't have a huge amount of free time, or spare $ - 
> bumping up the boat is already a leap of faith. 
> But it fits - when I bought the M24 last year I renamed it "Big Picture" - on 
> the basis that I don't really have the time or $ - but the looking at the big 
> picture this is more important.  I expect if/when I get a new boat I'll 
> re-use the name (or Bigger Picture).

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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

2013-06-28 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
 did this question just get overlooked?  I didn't see any responses... I'm 
having to do something with my stove as well.  I think they can be repaired.  I 
have the old alcohol type.

danny

Please note: message attached

From: johnr...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Stove Replacement for C&C29-2
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 20:52:44 -0400 (EDT)



Any recommendations for a new stove for Falcon.

John McLaughlin
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Re: Stus-List terrorized a buy boat

2013-07-31 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
What a great story!  

-- Original Message --
From: Nate Flesness 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List terrorized a buy boat
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2013 11:31:17 -0500


http://bringthewinnieestellehome.com/Winnie_Estelle/Welcome.html
 I had no idea either, but interesting... Nate"Sarah Jean"1980 30-1Siskiwit Bay 
MarinaLake Superior

On Wed, Jul 31, 2013 at 11:00 AM, Frederick G Street  wrote:
Joe, -- I'm trying hard not to display total ignorance, but what's a "buy boat"?

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V�Oceanis�(1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
On Jul 31, 2013, at 9:39 AM, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:
After work we went up to CRYC to retrieve my boat and I pointed out the buy 
boat Winnie Estelle I had been aboard for 2 days doing RC work. �Right 
at sunset we dropped the mooring and headed for home with a close pass to say 
hi to the skipper of the Winnie Estelle. They shined a flashlight at me as we 
made a beeline for them. �Eventually there were two people shining 
lights. Then three. As we got close I realized this was ANOTHER buy boat and 
they thought we were a kamikaze boat trying to run them over! There are only 
like 20 of these things in the entire world - what are the odds of two of them 
in one river?
 
* also after we left their anchor light went on LOL

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
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Re: Stus-List Another boat

2013-08-01 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Hello Dr. Mark,

I looked at a couple of Cal 29s in my search.  What put me off them was some 
articles I found about a steel beam that has a tenancy to corrode away, between 
the sole and the hull.  There is a great deal of fiberglass work to get at it 
and repair it.  I believe its function was as a mast step support.

There is (or was) a pretty good website out there where a guy documented the 
repair really well.

I'm wondering though, what is it that makes the local C&C worth 50% more than 
the NADA value.  "a year or 2" left on the canvass?  that sounds like end of 
life to me.  The sails are in "good shape?"  How old are they?  I've heard 
these terms in my search and it always turned out to be an exaggeration on 
condition.  You need to go in thinking you need new sails and canvass unless 
you know how old the sails are or you can see for yourself what condition the 
canvass is in.

My boat has, last year, brand new sails, canvass, motor, standing rigging etc. 
etc. etc...  I think I'd be lucky to get $22,500 for it.  I only had the boat 
out 6 times last year and brought the canvass and sails to the sail loft for 
inspection, repair and storage.  I could not believe the things that needed 
done.  There were signs of chafing already and they reinforced those areas.

Sails take a beating, assume the worst, there is probably $2500 - $4000 right 
there.  If this guy had his sails serviced every year, he would have said that.

It's still a buyer's market out there.  Sounds like a pretty steep price tag to 
me...

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA


-- Original Message --
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Another boat
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2013 22:30:25 -0300



Seriously looking at another boat.  Checked out a local C&C 29 mkII on 
Sunday.

http://novascotia.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-boats-watercraft-sailboats-C-C-29-MK-II-W0QQAdIdZ474384947

Overall the boat looked good.  The paint job on the hull was rough 
(needs a good sanding and new bottom coat).

The boat is on a trailer - which makes it easier to move the 90 min 
drive home, and the trailer allows for easier yard management (assuming 
the hoist can get the boat high enough to put it to bed).
He reports the sails in "good shape" (but no spinnaker), engine 
supposedly runs well (not in water to test), hull looks good with no 
dimples or dings (although there is some minor damage at the stern where 
someone likely backed into a slip too hard), teak and holly sole is a 
bit rough (no mold but finish is beat up), dodger and sail cover 
reported to "have a year or 2 left in them", cushions ok (few years left 
in fabric)

The seller is asking $22500.  Maybe offer $17000-18000 firm?

(I have had a few emails with a new list member, Bob Dryer, looking to 
sell a C&C 29 II in Long Island sound for $14500 --- but that's a long 
way away, hard to look at the boat plus the cost of getting it back and 
the fact that I'd have to buy a cradle - all together, if I can get a 
local boat for $4000 the price is pretty even)

NADA average value of a 1983 C&C 29 II is $13000
-
Also - Thinking of looking at a Cal 9.2, 1982, listed at $2
http://halifax.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-boats-watercraft-sailboats-Cal-9-2-Sailboat-Price-Reduced-W0QQAdIdZ493465591
(NADA value at $13800)
Plus another Cal 9.2 listed at $15K (but no pictures).

Any thoughts?  I'm not familiar with the Cal boats.  Reading online the 
comments are that the Cal is more tender and that the diesel is raw 
water cooled (which can lead to more issues as they age). Overall online 
comments are not positive - seems the design may play to the worst parts 
of the IOR rules. Also some negative comments about decks etc.

I don't want a poorly behaved boat that I can't manage in gusty winds or 
something that will ruin sailing for the kids --- maybe I'm answering my 
own thoughts on the Cal? Can't say I like the way the pinched rear end 
looks either!

Any thoughts appreciated,
Mark

-- 

-
   Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana


___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


Re: Stus-List Another boat

2013-08-02 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Mark,I doubt the guy is being deliberately dishonest about any of his 
descriptions.  He probably believes everything.  What I noticed as I shopped 
for a boat was that most of the brokers were more upfront about condition than 
the owners trying to sell on there own.   Lets face it, we overlook things 
sometimes as "not so bad" because either we would rather spend the boat bucks 
on something else, or it seems like too much of a pain in the butt to deal with 
right now...whatever.  The point is we convince ourselves that things are not 
as bad as they seem sometimes.  Now, add to the mix that you want someone to 
buy your boat and you have a price that you would like to get for it.  I think 
you are going to be even more willing to overlook the condition of things.  
After all, you first have to convince yourself that your asking price is fair. 
I must have looked 25 boats in my search over 2 years.  Almost non of the for 
sale by owner boats were in the condition described.  I don't think any of 
them, except one, were deliberately misrepresenting their boat.  In fact, I 
pretty much liked all of them.  I think it was an emotional assessment that led 
them to either not disclose something or overstate condition. On the other 
hand, the brokers want to move boats.  They know an over priced boat is going 
to sit and sit.  There is nothing in it for them to over price a boat.  I had 
brokers tell me about blistering and soft spots right over the phone.  they 
didn't want to waste their time meeting, showing, and opening up a boat if it 
wasn't as described.  I walked away disappointed from for sale by owner boats 
way more often than brokered boats. I got to a point that if the description 
did not give the age of the sails, they needed replaced.  It seemed that, if 
anyone bought sails within the previous 12, or so, years, they listed the year 
they were purchased.  My research made clear that sails are generally 
completely bagged out by 10 years unless serviced and resewn.  Then 15 years 
might be your usable life.  Bagged out sails really make for unexpected 
reactions to the wind.  If you are looking at a reputedly tender boat, bagged 
out sails will certainly make it WAY more tender.  It's the shape that goes, 
not the material.  I ended up buying new sails for both of my boats and I'm 
glad I did.  New sails just handle the wind and the gusts better. Another thing 
I noticed was that broker listed boats, where the broker actually returned 
calls, were, generally, more fairly priced.  I went out hunting a few times 
because some of the un-returned calls were on boats that looked great in the 
adds but, upon finding them on my own, I understood the un-returned calls. So, 
I just kept looking and looking and looking until something felt right. Anyway, 
those are my insights and experiences. worth every bit of $0.02 American or 
Canadian or Australian for that matter, I think! DannyLolita1973 Viking 
33Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Stevan Plavsa 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Another boat
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 23:36:04 -0400


Keep looking and don't settle. I got my 32 for 18k, that's right in your 
ballpark. I was originally looking for 27s and 29s but I didn't find any that 
were reasonably priced or even in reasonable shape. I went to look at the 32 on 
a whim because it was the closest boat to me, and a broker boat no less .. 
something I'de been avoiding up to that point. I had driven to NY to look at 
boats on the south shore of Lake Ontario, not a complete waste of time because 
it helped me compare and understand the market better.� And you know 
what? The 32, literally 5 minutes from my house, was easily in way better shape 
than any of the boats I'de looked at up to that point. I was sold on it 
instantly. It was more boat than I hoped for and it was in reach. Life is short 
and I can be pretty impulsive so I made an offer, had it surveyed and bought 
the boat. I think the PO was happy to get the 18k and I think he was happy to 
deal with me, we got along great. Some other guy was in line before me but he 
was a huge hassle for the seller. I lucked out, the PO was a great guy. 
�I don't race so my requirements may be different than yours. My boat is 
a freshwater boat and it surveyed well. The sails were worn out and I just 
spent $1600 (shipping in!) all told on a genoa from Rolly Tasker, it's a great 
sail and an incredible value. The main is still usable and will be for a couple 
of years yet. Canvas is still good, not great, but doesn't need replacing.  
but I have spent a lot. I've spent money refurbishing the 
head/tanks/freshwater/wiring/instruments/stereo/solar and the list goes on. A 
boat that has had that stuff done is worth more, but then, if you do it 
yourself it's really YOUR boat. My boat is MY boat! I EARNED it because I fixed 
the shit out of it!�  SteveSuhana, C&C 32Toronto

On Thu, Aug 1, 2013 at 7:50 PM, Knowles 

Stus-List '74 33' C&C Sloop - $5000 (Portsmouth RI)

2013-08-09 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Hi guys, was perusing CL and found this listing. $5000 sounds pretty cheap.  I 
know nothing about this boat or it's owner.  I just thought you guys might find 
it interesting http://providence.craigslist.org/boa/3967301717.html

 ___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


Re: Stus-List C&C 29 in Portsmouth

2013-08-15 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Yea,I'm always looking at Vikings and I've seen a few sitting for a while.  I 
saw a few starting at 30k or so  I've been seeing this one too. It is a Viking 
33.  It started out in the low 20s but is now 15k in Mississauga, Ontario  I 
don't know if that is near you or 
not...http://www.boatdealers.ca/usedboats/sailboats/racersandcruisers/cc/viking33/106647/cc-viking33-used-boat-for-sale.aspx
 These are really great sailing boats

-- Original Message --
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 29 in Portsmouth
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 11:05:46 -0300



 Ok - so now your just taunting me!
 I'll be looking at a different 29-2 next week, good condition but they are 
asking $23000.
 I'm willing to pay a bit of a premium to have a boat that is more accessible - 
but at the prices people are listing boats for you'd think I could start a 
business of just shipping boats up from down south!
 Many of these boats are not selling as the pricing is too high - but sellers 
seemed convinced
 
-  Dr. Mark BodnarB.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)Bedford 
Chiropracticwww.bedfordchiro.ca-There is no cure for birth 
and death save to enjoy the interval.  - George SantayanaOn 15/08/2013 10:51 
AM, honeys...@aol.com wrote:There was a 29 here in Savannah in far better shape 
than this boat (new sails and all Harken hardware) and the owner had to donate 
it to the Sea Scouts just to get rid of it. In a message dated 8/15/2013 
9:21:59 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, drbod...@accesswave.ca writes:
 Especially when I look around for options and see
 http://maine.craigslist.org/boa/4001084479.html
1984 29' C&C sailboat for sale - $9000 (Georgetown, ME)Does not look to be in 
as good a condition from the interior pictures - but if I can get my hands on a 
road worthy trailer I could drive down and have it back in a weekend for less 
than half.
 
 Mark
-  Dr. Mark BodnarB.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)Bedford 
Chiropracticwww.bedfordchiro.ca-There is no cure for birth 
and death save to enjoy the interval.  - George SantayanaOn 15/08/2013 9:13 AM, 
Rich Knowles wrote:That makes sense to me!Rich KnowlesIndigo - C&C LF38Halifax 
- Nova ScotiaOn 2013-08-14, at 20:36, "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
 wrote:- owner advised me that he turned down an offer 
of $19000 already.  I told him I would be offering lower than that and he has 
not responded.___This List is 
provided by the C&C Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comcnc-l...@cnc-list.com
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 

___This List is provided by the C&C 
Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comcnc-l...@cnc-list.com 
___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com


Re: Stus-List C&C 29 in Portsmouth

2013-08-15 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Yes, she be a slim Lass that Viking!  but very sexy indeed!!  I was really 
getting frustrated with the repairs this year and then 2 days out on the bay 
with fair winds and lovely sunshine...ahh a love rekindled!!!  She really does 
sail beautifully! If you were to come as far as Rhode Island I bet you'd get a 
good deal!!  ...and a great trip! Maybe even Boston would reveal some very nice 
boats at goods prices... DannyLolita1973 Viking 33Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Andrew Burton 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 29 in Portsmouth
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 11:49:00 -0400


But the trip would be downwind and down current. You'd have an adventure and a 
Viking 33! That's one of my favorite boats, though it hasn't that much more 
volume than the 29 II.Remember Slocum's words, "to any young man contemplating 
a voyage, I would say, 'go!'"AndyC&C 40Peregrine

Andrew Burton61 W NarragansettNewport, RI USA02840 
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401 965-5260
On Aug 15, 2013, at 11:10, "Dr. Mark Bodnar"  wrote:


 Mississauga is likely too far.  I'm in Halifax, far east on the Atlantic shore.
 
 It would be a 1000mile road trip, longer by water.
 
 But thanks for the heads up.  I'm only buying if I find a fair price and good 
condition.
 
 Mark
-  Dr. Mark BodnarB.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)Bedford 
Chiropracticwww.bedfordchiro.ca-There is no cure for birth 
and death save to enjoy the interval.  - George SantayanaOn 15/08/2013 11:29 
AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:Yea,I'm always looking at Vikings and I've seen a 
few sitting for a while.  I saw a few starting at 30k or so  I've been seeing 
this one too. It is a Viking 33.  It started out in the low 20s but is now 15k 
in Mississauga, Ontario  I don't know if that is near you or 
not...http://www.boatdealers.ca/usedboats/sailboats/racersandcruisers/cc/viking33/106647/cc-viking33-used-boat-for-sale.aspx
 These are really great sailing boats
 
 -- Original Message --
 From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 29 in Portsmouth
 Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 11:05:46 -0300
 

 Ok - so now your just taunting me!
 I'll be looking at a different 29-2 next week, good condition but they are 
asking $23000.
 I'm willing to pay a bit of a premium to have a boat that is more accessible - 
but at the prices people are listing boats for you'd think I could start a 
business of just shipping boats up from down south!
 Many of these boats are not selling as the pricing is too high - but sellers 
seemed convinced
 
-  Dr. Mark BodnarB.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)Bedford 
Chiropracticwww.bedfordchiro.ca-There is no cure for birth 
and death save to enjoy the interval.  - George SantayanaOn 15/08/2013 10:51 
AM, honeys...@aol.com wrote:There was a 29 here in Savannah in far better shape 
than this boat (new sails and all Harken hardware) and the owner had to donate 
it to the Sea Scouts just to get rid of it. In a message dated 8/15/2013 
9:21:59 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, drbod...@accesswave.ca writes:
 Especially when I look around for options and see
 http://maine.craigslist.org/boa/4001084479.html
1984 29' C&C sailboat for sale - $9000 (Georgetown, ME)Does not look to be in 
as good a condition from the interior pictures - but if I can get my hands on a 
road worthy trailer I could drive down and have it back in a weekend for less 
than half.
 
 Mark
-  Dr. Mark BodnarB.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)Bedford 
Chiropracticwww.bedfordchiro.ca-There is no cure for birth 
and death save to enjoy the interval.  - George SantayanaOn 15/08/2013 9:13 AM, 
Rich Knowles wrote:That makes sense to me!Rich KnowlesIndigo - C&C LF38Halifax 
- Nova ScotiaOn 2013-08-14, at 20:36, "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
 wrote:- owner advised me that he turned down an offer 
of $19000 already.  I told him I would be offering lower than that and he has 
not responded.___This List is 
provided by the C&C Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comcnc-l...@cnc-list.com
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 

___This List is provided by the C&C 
Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comcnc-l...@cnc-list.com 


___This List is provided by the C&C 
Photo 
Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


Re: Stus-List C&C 29 in Portsmouth

2013-08-15 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
LOLthat does work...just to be clear it was the work getting in the way of 
sailing that frustrated me! C'mon, I named her Lolita...thats gotta tell ya 
something!

-- Original Message --
From: Andrew Burton 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 29 in Portsmouth
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 16:39:01 -0400


There are some great deals on boats around here and Halifax is all downwind and 
only about 300 miles or so. How can ever get frustrated repairing that piece of 
floating art you're privileged to own, Danny? Just step back and take a look at 
her, next time!AndyC&C 40Peregrine

Andrew Burton61 W NarragansettNewport, RI USA02840 
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401 965-5260
On Aug 15, 2013, at 20:23, "djhaug...@juno.com"  wrote:

Yes, she be a slim Lass that Viking!  but very sexy indeed!!  I was really 
getting frustrated with the repairs this year and then 2 days out on the bay 
with fair winds and lovely sunshine...ahh a love rekindled!!!  She really does 
sail beautifully! If you were to come as far as Rhode Island I bet you'd get a 
good deal!!  ...and a great trip! Maybe even Boston would reveal some very nice 
boats at goods prices... DannyLolita1973 Viking 33Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Andrew Burton 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 29 in Portsmouth
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 11:49:00 -0400

 
But the trip would be downwind and down current. You'd have an adventure and a 
Viking 33! That's one of my favorite boats, though it hasn't that much more 
volume than the 29 II.Remember Slocum's words, "to any young man contemplating 
a voyage, I would say, 'go!'"AndyC&C 40Peregrine

Andrew Burton61 W NarragansettNewport, RI USA02840 
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401 965-5260
On Aug 15, 2013, at 11:10, "Dr. Mark Bodnar"  wrote:


 Mississauga is likely too far.  I'm in Halifax, far east on the Atlantic shore.
 
 It would be a 1000mile road trip, longer by water.
 
 But thanks for the heads up.  I'm only buying if I find a fair price and good 
condition.
 
 Mark
-  Dr. Mark BodnarB.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)Bedford 
Chiropracticwww.bedfordchiro.ca-----There is no cure for birth 
and death save to enjoy the interval.  - George SantayanaOn 15/08/2013 11:29 
AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:Yea,I'm always looking at Vikings and I've seen a 
few sitting for a while.  I saw a few starting at 30k or so  I've been seeing 
this one too. It is a Viking 33.  It started out in the low 20s but is now 15k 
in Mississauga, Ontario  I don't know if that is near you or 
not...http://www.boatdealers.ca/usedboats/sailboats/racersandcruisers/cc/viking33/106647/cc-viking33-used-boat-for-sale.aspx
 These are really great sailing boats
 
 -- Original Message --
 From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 29 in Portsmouth
 Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 11:05:46 -0300
 

 Ok - so now your just taunting me!
 I'll be looking at a different 29-2 next week, good condition but they are 
asking $23000.
 I'm willing to pay a bit of a premium to have a boat that is more accessible - 
but at the prices people are listing boats for you'd think I could start a 
business of just shipping boats up from down south!
 Many of these boats are not selling as the pricing is too high - but sellers 
seemed convinced
 
-  Dr. Mark BodnarB.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)Bedford 
Chiropracticwww.bedfordchiro.ca-There is no cure for birth 
and death save to enjoy the interval.  - George SantayanaOn 15/08/2013 10:51 
AM, honeys...@aol.com wrote:There was a 29 here in Savannah in far better shape 
than this boat (new sails and all Harken hardware) and the owner had to donate 
it to the Sea Scouts just to get rid of it. In a message dated 8/15/2013 
9:21:59 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, drbod...@accesswave.ca writes:
 Especially when I look around for options and see
 http://maine.craigslist.org/boa/4001084479.html
1984 29' C&C sailboat for sale - $9000 (Georgetown, ME)Does not look to be in 
as good a condition from the interior pictures - but if I can get my hands on a 
road worthy trailer I could drive down and have it back in a weekend for less 
than half.
 
 Mark
-  Dr. Mark BodnarB.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)Bedford 
Chiropracticwww.bedfordchiro.ca-There is no cure for birth 
and death save to enjoy the interval.  - George SantayanaOn 15/08/2013 9:13 AM, 
Rich Knowles wrote:That makes sense to me!Rich KnowlesIndigo - C&C LF38Halifax 
- Nova ScotiaOn 2013-08-14, at 20:36, "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
 wrote:- owner advised me that he turned down an offer 
of $19000 already.  I told him I would be

Re: Stus-List C&C 29 in Portsmouth

2013-08-16 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
what do you think about a pearson 30 for $4000? These are nice boats, I looked 
at few of them during my search.  Still on a tiller which, isn't necessarily a 
bad thing... http://southcoast.craigslist.org/boa/3944986022.html

-- Original Message --
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 29 in Portsmouth
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 01:12:51 -0300



 Andrew,
 I've been doing my best to look at boats down in Maine, Mass and RI - the 
bigger boats show up on yachtworld, but the smaller/less expensive boats don't 
seem to show up anywhere consistent (I regularly look at sailboatlistings and 
try to search Craigslist).
 
 Hard to get a good handle on boats at a distance, and harder still to show up 
hoping to sail one home!  If you see a nice boat let me know. I'm interested!  
Still looking 29-32 range.  Sailing it back sounds like fun.
 
 Failing that, I'm looking locally and I'm going to see if I can get someone to 
check out that 29 in Maine - if I can find a trailer to haul it back on it is 
way cheaper than similar looking condition boats here.
 
 Mark
-  Dr. Mark BodnarB.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)Bedford 
Chiropracticwww.bedfordchiro.ca-There is no cure for birth 
and death save to enjoy the interval.  - George SantayanaOn 15/08/2013 5:39 PM, 
Andrew Burton wrote:There are some great deals on boats around here and Halifax 
is all downwind and only about 300 miles or so. How can ever get frustrated 
repairing that piece of floating art you're privileged to own, Danny? Just step 
back and take a look at her, next time!AndyC&C 40Peregrine
 
Andrew Burton61 W NarragansettNewport, RI USA02840 
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401 965-5260
 On Aug 15, 2013, at 20:23, "djhaug...@juno.com"  wrote:
 Yes, she be a slim Lass that Viking!  but very sexy indeed!!  I was really 
getting frustrated with the repairs this year and then 2 days out on the bay 
with fair winds and lovely sunshine...ahh a love rekindled!!!  She really does 
sail beautifully! If you were to come as far as Rhode Island I bet you'd get a 
good deal!!  ...and a great trip! Maybe even Boston would reveal some very nice 
boats at goods prices... DannyLolita1973 Viking 33Westport Point, MA
 
 -- Original Message --
 From: Andrew Burton 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 29 in Portsmouth
 Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 11:49:00 -0400
 
But the trip would be downwind and down current. You'd have an adventure and a 
Viking 33! That's one of my favorite boats, though it hasn't that much more 
volume than the 29 II.Remember Slocum's words, "to any young man contemplating 
a voyage, I would say, 'go!'"AndyC&C 40Peregrine
 
Andrew Burton61 W NarragansettNewport, RI USA02840 
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401 965-5260
 On Aug 15, 2013, at 11:10, "Dr. Mark Bodnar"  wrote:
 
 Mississauga is likely too far.  I'm in Halifax, far east on the Atlantic shore.
 
 It would be a 1000mile road trip, longer by water.
 
 But thanks for the heads up.  I'm only buying if I find a fair price and good 
condition.
 
 Mark
-  Dr. Mark BodnarB.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)Bedford 
Chiropracticwww.bedfordchiro.ca-----There is no cure for birth 
and death save to enjoy the interval.  - George SantayanaOn 15/08/2013 11:29 
AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:Yea,I'm always looking at Vikings and I've seen a 
few sitting for a while.  I saw a few starting at 30k or so  I've been seeing 
this one too. It is a Viking 33.  It started out in the low 20s but is now 15k 
in Mississauga, Ontario  I don't know if that is near you or 
not...http://www.boatdealers.ca/usedboats/sailboats/racersandcruisers/cc/viking33/106647/cc-viking33-used-boat-for-sale.aspx
 These are really great sailing boats
 
 -- Original Message --
 From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 29 in Portsmouth
 Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 11:05:46 -0300
 

 Ok - so now your just taunting me!
 I'll be looking at a different 29-2 next week, good condition but they are 
asking $23000.
 I'm willing to pay a bit of a premium to have a boat that is more accessible - 
but at the prices people are listing boats for you'd think I could start a 
business of just shipping boats up from down south!
 Many of these boats are not selling as the pricing is too high - but sellers 
seemed convinced
 
-  Dr. Mark BodnarB.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)Bedford 
Chiropracticwww.bedfordchiro.ca-There is no cure for birth 
and death save to enjoy the interval.  - George SantayanaOn 15/08/2013 10:51 
AM, honeys...@aol.com wrote:There was a 29 here in Savannah in far better shape 

Re: Stus-List C&C 29 in Portsmouth

2013-08-16 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
How about this O'day 30?  http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/boa/3949686837.html

-- Original Message --
From: Andrew Burton 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 29 in Portsmouth
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 08:43:06 -0400


The Pearson 30 is a good boat. It won't have the same feel of quality, 
especially inside, that you get from the C&C. But they sail well and are pretty 
comfortable. I like tiller steering for smaller boats. You don't need the 
leverage from a wheel to turn the rudder.AndyC&C 40Peregrine

Andrew Burton61 W NarragansettNewport, RI USA02840 
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401 965-5260
On Aug 16, 2013, at 12:30, "djhaug...@juno.com"  wrote:

what do you think about a pearson 30 for $4000? These are nice boats, I looked 
at few of them during my search.  Still on a tiller which, isn't necessarily a 
bad thing... http://southcoast.craigslist.org/boa/3944986022.html

-- Original Message --
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 29 in Portsmouth
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 01:12:51 -0300

 

 Andrew,
 I've been doing my best to look at boats down in Maine, Mass and RI - the 
bigger boats show up on yachtworld, but the smaller/less expensive boats don't 
seem to show up anywhere consistent (I regularly look at sailboatlistings and 
try to search Craigslist).
 
 Hard to get a good handle on boats at a distance, and harder still to show up 
hoping to sail one home!  If you see a nice boat let me know. I'm interested!  
Still looking 29-32 range.  Sailing it back sounds like fun.
 
 Failing that, I'm looking locally and I'm going to see if I can get someone to 
check out that 29 in Maine - if I can find a trailer to haul it back on it is 
way cheaper than similar looking condition boats here.
 
 Mark
-  Dr. Mark BodnarB.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)Bedford 
Chiropracticwww.bedfordchiro.ca-There is no cure for birth 
and death save to enjoy the interval.  - George SantayanaOn 15/08/2013 5:39 PM, 
Andrew Burton wrote:There are some great deals on boats around here and Halifax 
is all downwind and only about 300 miles or so. How can ever get frustrated 
repairing that piece of floating art you're privileged to own, Danny? Just step 
back and take a look at her, next time!AndyC&C 40Peregrine
 
Andrew Burton61 W NarragansettNewport, RI USA02840 
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401 965-5260
 On Aug 15, 2013, at 20:23, "djhaug...@juno.com"  
wrote:Yes, she be a slim Lass that Viking!  but very sexy indeed!!  I was 
really getting frustrated with the repairs this year and then 2 days out on the 
bay with fair winds and lovely sunshine...ahh a love rekindled!!!  She really 
does sail beautifully! If you were to come as far as Rhode Island I bet you'd 
get a good deal!!  ...and a great trip! Maybe even Boston would reveal some 
very nice boats at goods prices... DannyLolita1973 Viking 33Westport Point, MA
 
 -- Original Message --
 From: Andrew Burton 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 29 in Portsmouth
 Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 11:49:00 -0400
 
But the trip would be downwind and down current. You'd have an adventure and a 
Viking 33! That's one of my favorite boats, though it hasn't that much more 
volume than the 29 II.Remember Slocum's words, "to any young man contemplating 
a voyage, I would say, 'go!'"AndyC&C 40Peregrine
 
Andrew Burton61 W NarragansettNewport, RI USA02840 
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401 965-5260
 On Aug 15, 2013, at 11:10, "Dr. Mark Bodnar"  wrote:
 Mississauga is likely too far.  I'm in Halifax, far east on the Atlantic shore.
 
 It would be a 1000mile road trip, longer by water.
 
 But thanks for the heads up.  I'm only buying if I find a fair price and good 
condition.
 
 Mark
-  Dr. Mark BodnarB.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)Bedford 
Chiropracticwww.bedfordchiro.ca-There is no cure for birth 
and death save to enjoy the interval.  - George SantayanaOn 15/08/2013 11:29 
AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:Yea,I'm always looking at Vikings and I've seen a 
few sitting for a while.  I saw a few starting at 30k or so  I've been seeing 
this one too. It is a Viking 33.  It started out in the low 20s but is now 15k 
in Mississauga, Ontario  I don't know if that is near you or 
not...http://www.boatdealers.ca/usedboats/sailboats/racersandcruisers/cc/viking33/106647/cc-viking33-used-boat-for-sale.aspx
 These are really great sailing boats
 
 -- Original Message --
 From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 29 in Portsmouth
 Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 11:05:46 -

Stus-List Okay, I don't usually...

2013-08-16 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
 ...like to make fun of any particular boats but, WTF is this supposed to be?  
This is actually uglier than a McGregor! 
http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/boa/4004262802.html___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild

2013-08-19 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Hello all,

I'm looking into rebuilding my carb.  I'm having some idling issues and It's 
getting better and better but I think It should be better still.  When I looked 
inside the carb.  It was dirty and gritty...no good,

I sprayed it all with carb cleaner.  Although it is better I want to try a 
rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.

I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this one

for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping...
http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=KT-5535

It seems it is even a better kit in that it has more parts, specifically, it 
seems to have the throttle arm seal and cap in it.

Is moyer really just price gouging? 

he even charges another $12.50 for his tech tip videos on trouble shooting you 
carb.  I mean I'm all for a guy making a buck but, you'd think if he is 
charging more than triple on parts, he could throw in the videos...  I'll 
probably pay the $12.50 to see it, especially if I save all that dough on the 
kit!  Then, I don't have to feel guilty about not giving the guy my business... 
 I mean I'd hate to see him go out of business...

Anyway, maybe this is a substandard kit?

Also, I have a rebuilt carb that I did last year before I knew I was buying the 
Moyer exchange engine.  So, I'll swap that in, I would just like to have a 
rebuilt one on standby...

I also found a farm tractor supply selling the whole carb for $175.46  Moyer 
wants $270

http://www.farmersserviceinc.com/marine.htm

Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated!  I thought this could be 
good infor for the other A4 boats... if there are any left LOL

Danny



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild

2013-08-19 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Yea, I've spent A LOT of money at Moyer Marine and I'm happy to help keep him 
going.  However, Boats are expensive and it seems these carburetors need to be 
rebuilt quite often. So, he charges for the conveinience.  I get it.  I'm just 
slightly annoyed that my brand new Moyer exchange engine with like 25 hours on 
it is not running like a clock... Thanks for the feed back on Moyers prices.  
Any insights on my idling issue? Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Robert Mazza 
To: "C&C Mailing List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 15:54:27 -0400


I rebuilt my entire A4 using Don's rebuild manual and his Amish machinists to 
rebore the cylinders and remachine the head. Without Don Moyer, we Atomic Four 
owners would be up a creek. If his parts are more expensive (I've never looked 
elsewhere), in my opinion,�it's money well spent just to maintain his 
expertise and knowledge. I learned a lot just attending one of his 
seminars.�Rob

On Mon, Aug 19, 2013 at 2:54 PM, djhaug...@juno.com  wrote:
Hello all,
 
 I'm looking into rebuilding my carb. �I'm having some idling issues and 
It's getting better and better but I think It should be better still. 
�When I looked inside the carb. �It was dirty and gritty...no 
good,
 
 I sprayed it all with carb cleaner. �Although it is better I want to 
try a rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.
 
 I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this one
 
 for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping...
 http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=KT-5535
 
 It seems it is even a better kit in that it has more parts, specifically, it 
seems to have the throttle arm seal and cap in it.
 
 Is moyer really just price gouging?
 
 he even charges another $12.50 for his tech tip videos on trouble shooting you 
carb. �I mean I'm all for a guy making a buck but, you'd think if he is 
charging more than triple on parts, he could throw in the videos... 
�I'll probably pay the $12.50 to see it, especially if I save all that 
dough on the kit! �Then, I don't have to feel guilty about not giving 
the guy my business... �I mean I'd hate to see him go out of business...
 
 Anyway, maybe this is a substandard kit?
 
 Also, I have a rebuilt carb that I did last year before I knew I was buying 
the Moyer exchange engine. �So, I'll swap that in, I would just like to 
have a rebuilt one on standby...
 
 I also found a farm tractor supply selling the whole carb for $175.46 
�Moyer wants $270
 
 http://www.farmersserviceinc.com/marine.htm
 
 Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated! �I thought this 
could be good infor for the other A4 boats... if there are any left LOL
 
 Danny
 
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

2013-08-20 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
I will look at the tube!  thanks...no one has brought that up yet and I never 
thought of it..

I have been playing with the idle mix screw It does have an effect but I still 
can't seem to get it to idle low enough

I'm kind of saving the timing for last.  I'm assuming Moyer set that precisely 
before it left their shop and I really don't want to mess with it yet.

The choke seems to want to be fully open.  I have a spare carburetor I rebuilt 
last year sitting in my toolbox.  I'm going to swap that out next.  That 
"should" eliminate clogged jets as a possible problem.

I just put the plugs in this season and gapped them to spec,  They are all a 
nice golden brown color.

Here is a link to the carb with the flame arrestor removed
http://sdrv.ms/14SwiMr

...and here is one of a the #1 spark plug
http://sdrv.ms/1eZpLVP

You can probably scroll around and see other photos and a couple of videos of 
the engine running.




-- Original Message --
From: "jtsails" 
To: , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 00:06:20 -0400

Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 MkII
Oriental, NC

- Original Message - 
From: "Michael Dean" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.


> Danny,
>
> I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
> screw. (I forgot one year - duh!)  Did it have any effect?  It may also be
> worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees 
> or
> so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4.  Another thing to try is
> to slowly pull the choke out in small increments.  If it idles better then
> something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
> lean at idle.
>
> Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
> too much fuel is entering the carb.  Sometimes the float valve can be 
> freed
> up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the 
> carb
> is empty.  Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
> moment or two.  The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the 
> float
> valve if it is a bit gummy.
>
> I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.
>
> All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
> out the various jets with compressed air.
>
> Mike
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> djhaug...@juno.com
> Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild
>
> Hello all,
>
> I'm looking into rebuilding my carb.  I'm having some idling issues and 
> It's
> getting better and better but I think It should be better still.  When I
> looked inside the carb.  It was dirty and gritty...no good,
>
> I sprayed it all with carb cleaner.  Although it is better I want to try a
> rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.
>
> I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this 
> one
>
> for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping...
> http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=KT-5535
>
> It seems it is even a better kit in that it has more parts, specifically, 
> it
> seems to have the throttle arm seal and cap in it.
>
> Is moyer really just price gouging?
>
> he even charges another $12.50 for his tech tip videos on trouble shooting
> you carb.  I mean I'm all for a guy making a buck but, you'd think if he 
> is
> charging more than triple on parts, he could throw in the videos...  I'll
> probably pay the $12.50 to see it, especially if I save all that dough on
> the kit!  Then, I don't have to feel guilty about not giving the guy my
> business...  I mean I'd hate to see him go out of business...
>
> Anyway, maybe this is a substandard kit?
>
> Also, I have a rebuilt carb that I did last year before I knew I was 
> buying
> the Moyer exchange engine.  So, I'll swap that in, I would just like to 
> have
> a rebuilt one on standby...
>
> I also found a farm tractor supply selling the whole carb for $175.46 
> Moyer
> wants $270
>
> http://www.farmersserviceinc.com/marine.htm
>
> Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated!  I thought this could 
> be
> good infor for the other A4 boats... if there are any left LOL
>
> Danny
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> 

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

2013-08-20 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Josh, Pretty cool video,  I'll have to watch more closely from home. I really 
appreciate the video and commend you for making and posting it! Thanks,Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Josh Muckley 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 04:11:17 -0400


This video reviews some basic carburetor functions.� It is of a basic 
Chinese knock off carb but maybe it hits on something you didn't know.� 
Worth a try anyway.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaMqiHvWGec&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Josh
-- 
 When privacy matters.
 http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 12:06 AM, "jtsails"  wrote:
Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
 James
 Delaney
 C&C 38 MkII
 Oriental, NC
 
 - Original Message - From: "Michael Dean" 
 To: 
 Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
 
 
Danny,
 
 I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
 screw. (I forgot one year - duh!) �Did it have any effect? �It 
may also be
 worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees or
 so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4. �Another thing to try 
is
 to slowly pull the choke out in small increments. �If it idles better 
then
 something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
 lean at idle.
 
 Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
 too much fuel is entering the carb. �Sometimes the float valve can be 
freed
 up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the carb
 is empty. �Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
 moment or two. �The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the 
float
 valve if it is a bit gummy.
 
 I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.
 
 All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
 out the various jets with compressed air.
 
 Mike
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
 djhaug...@juno.com
 Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild
 
 Hello all,
 
 I'm looking into rebuilding my carb. �I'm having some idling issues and 
It's
 getting better and better but I think It should be better still. �When I
 looked inside the carb. �It was dirty and gritty...no good,
 
 I sprayed it all with carb cleaner. �Although it is better I want to 
try a
 rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.
 
 I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this one
 
 for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping...
 http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=KT-5535
 
 It seems it is even a better kit in that it has more parts, specifically, it
 seems to have the throttle arm seal and cap in it.
 
 Is moyer really just price gouging?
 
 he even charges another $12.50 for his tech tip videos on trouble shooting
 you carb. �I mean I'm all for a guy making a buck but, you'd think if 
he is
 charging more than triple on parts, he could throw in the videos... 
�I'll
 probably pay the $12.50 to see it, especially if I save all that dough on
 the kit! �Then, I don't have to feel guilty about not giving the guy my
 business... �I mean I'd hate to see him go out of business...
 
 Anyway, maybe this is a substandard kit?
 
 Also, I have a rebuilt carb that I did last year before I knew I was buying
 the Moyer exchange engine. �So, I'll swap that in, I would just like to 
have
 a rebuilt one on standby...
 
 I also found a farm tractor supply selling the whole carb for $175.46 Moyer
 wants $270
 
 http://www.farmersserviceinc.com/marine.htm
 
 Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated! �I thought this 
could be
 good infor for the other A4 boats... if there are any left LOL
 
 Danny
 
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

2013-08-20 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
The new engine came with a carb...whether new or not...I'm not sure at this 
point.  I did assume that. A few weeks is correct,  We only got in the water in 
late august last year and took the boat out maybe 6 times.  This year we have 
only been out 3 times so far because I've been fighting these issues since 
early july... Those 20 something hours include idling and running at the dock 
during troubleshooting and warming up and prepping to leave dock or mooring... 
Under load I'd bet it hasn't seen 12-15 hours.  Actually now that I think about 
it...I haven't even burned a full tank of fuel yet.  18 gallons... On average,  
I probably run the engine 1 to 3 hours each time I take it out.  If i'm just 
day-sailing, a 1/2 hour out of the harbor and 1/2 hour back in...  I'm hoping 
one day soon to shorten that as I learn the boat and the harbor and maybe begin 
sailing in and out of the harbor!  Of course, that seems an ambitious goal 
right now... Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 08:58:44 -0400


Just FYI – I bought a new carb (at full Moyer price too) when I just 
could NOT get the engine to idle correctly no matter how many times I cleaned 
or rebuilt it. Apparently they develop issues other than what can be fixed by 
cleaning. I have noticed the metal itself will corrode and produce this odd 
looking whitish gunk if any water comes through with the gas and/or if the 
engine gets flooded.
I still don’t get the 20 some hours thing. Wouldn’t that be a few 
weeks at most from being brand new?  I think I had 20 hours on my new engine 
within 3 weeks of installing it at most. Did the new engine come with a new 
carb?
 
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 8:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
 
Josh,
 
Pretty cool video,  I'll have to watch more closely from home.
 
I really appreciate the video and commend you for making and posting it!
 
Thanks,
Danny


-- Original Message --
From: Josh Muckley 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 04:11:17 -0400
This video reviews some basic carburetor functions.� It is of a basic 
Chinese knock off carb but maybe it hits on something you didn't know.� 
Worth a try anyway.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaMqiHvWGec&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Josh
-- 
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 12:06 AM, "jtsails"  wrote:
Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 MkII
Oriental, NC

- Original Message - From: "Michael Dean" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.


Danny,

I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
screw. (I forgot one year - duh!) �Did it have any effect? �It 
may also be
worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees or
so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4. �Another thing to try 
is
to slowly pull the choke out in small increments. �If it idles better 
then
something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
lean at idle.

Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
too much fuel is entering the carb. �Sometimes the float valve can be 
freed
up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the carb
is empty. �Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
moment or two. �The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the 
float
valve if it is a bit gummy.

I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.

All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
out the various jets with compressed air.

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild

Hello all,

I'm looking into rebuilding my carb. �I'm having some idling issues and 
It's
getting better and better but I think It should be better still. �When I
looked inside the carb. �It was dirty and gritty...no good,

I sprayed it all with carb cleaner. �Although it is better I want to try 
a
rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.

I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this one

for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping...
http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=KT-5535

It seems it is even a better kit in that it has more parts, specifically, it
seems to 

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

2013-08-20 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
I've been in contact with Don through email...I tried everything he suggested 
so far...

-- Original Message --
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 09:29:01 -0400


I would call Moyer ASAP and see what they say. I also would get a new carb from 
someplace if this goes on.
 
Joe Della Barba
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 9:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
 
The new engine came with a carb...whether new or not...I'm not sure at this 
point.  I did assume that.
 
A few weeks is correct,  We only got in the water in late august last year and 
took the boat out maybe 6 times.  This year we have only been out 3 times so 
far because I've been fighting these issues since early july...
 
Those 20 something hours include idling and running at the dock during 
troubleshooting and warming up and prepping to leave dock or mooring...
 
Under load I'd bet it hasn't seen 12-15 hours.  Actually now that I think about 
it...I haven't even burned a full tank of fuel yet.  18 gallons...
 
On average,  I probably run the engine 1 to 3 hours each time I take it out.  
If i'm just day-sailing, a 1/2 hour out of the harbor and 1/2 hour back in...  
I'm hoping one day soon to shorten that as I learn the boat and the harbor and 
maybe begin sailing in and out of the harbor!  Of course, that seems an 
ambitious goal right now...
 
Danny


-- Original Message --
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 08:58:44 -0400
Just FYI – I bought a new carb (at full Moyer price too) when I just 
could NOT get the engine to idle correctly no matter how many times I cleaned 
or rebuilt it. Apparently they develop issues other than what can be fixed by 
cleaning. I have noticed the metal itself will corrode and produce this odd 
looking whitish gunk if any water comes through with the gas and/or if the 
engine gets flooded.
I still don’t get the 20 some hours thing. Wouldn’t that be a few 
weeks at most from being brand new?  I think I had 20 hours on my new engine 
within 3 weeks of installing it at most. Did the new engine come with a new 
carb?
 
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 8:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
 
Josh,
 
Pretty cool video,  I'll have to watch more closely from home.
 
I really appreciate the video and commend you for making and posting it!
 
Thanks,
Danny


-- Original Message --
From: Josh Muckley 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 04:11:17 -0400
This video reviews some basic carburetor functions.� It is of a basic 
Chinese knock off carb but maybe it hits on something you didn't know.� 
Worth a try anyway.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaMqiHvWGec&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Josh
-- 
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 12:06 AM, "jtsails"  wrote:
Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 MkII
Oriental, NC

- Original Message - From: "Michael Dean" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Danny,

I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
screw. (I forgot one year - duh!) �Did it have any effect? �It 
may also be
worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees or
so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4. �Another thing to try 
is
to slowly pull the choke out in small increments. �If it idles better 
then
something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
lean at idle.

Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
too much fuel is entering the carb. �Sometimes the float valve can be 
freed
up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the carb
is empty. �Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
moment or two. �The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the 
float
valve if it is a bit gummy.

I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.

All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
out the various jets with compressed air.

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild

Hello all,

I'm

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

2013-08-20 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Here is a link to a folder with tons of photos.  If you go to the end you see 
my latest photos and video of my carb, plugs and the engine running.  The 
newest video was take Sunday http://sdrv.ms/SFe8dh
-- Original Message --
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 10:06:15 -0400


If you don’t have one, do add a vacuum gauge. That will be good info. I 
pretty much wasted hours on my old carb before just getting a new one, but you 
may have a new one. Any way you can post a photo or video someplace?
Also – once again – there are a lot of smart people over on the 
Moyer forum.
 
Joe Della Barba
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sylvain 
Laplante
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 9:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
 
Hi,
   Typically timing should be set before you adjust the carb . One thing to 
note also is that with a new engine it is normal to have to adjust it again, as 
the rings seal better, internal resistance decrease ( after break-in ).
 
Make sure ALL the intake gaskets seal properly and are tightened to recommended 
torque, typically an erratic idle will be caused by a dirty idle circuit or, 
quite often, by an air leak ( shown sometimes when it runs better with choke on 
). There are different ways to trace an air leak ( vaporize gas, wd-40, ether ) 
around each joint between intake manifold and carb ), for that, ask Don Moyer 
about which fluid he recommends you to use.
 
On most carburetors, idle mixture screw should be adjusted when throttle is 
completely closed, no choke on, engine warm and properly timed. Of course 
valves should be adjusted within specs but I don't think you will need to go 
that far :-)
 
Sylvain
C&C27MkIII
 
From: "djhaug...@juno.com" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

I will look at the tube!  thanks...no one has brought that up yet and I never 
thought of it..

I have been playing with the idle mix screw It does have an effect but I still 
can't seem to get it to idle low enough

I'm kind of saving the timing for last.  I'm assuming Moyer set that precisely 
before it left their shop and I really don't want to mess with it yet.

The choke seems to want to be fully open.  I have a spare carburetor I rebuilt 
last year sitting in my toolbox.  I'm going to swap that out next.  That 
"should" eliminate clogged jets as a possible problem.

I just put the plugs in this season and gapped them to spec,  They are all a 
nice golden brown color.

Here is a link to the carb with the flame arrestor removed
http://sdrv.ms/14SwiMr

...and here is one of a the #1 spark plug
http://sdrv.ms/1eZpLVP

You can probably scroll around and see other photos and a couple of videos of 
the engine running.




-- Original Message --
From: "jtsails" 
To: , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 00:06:20 -0400

Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 MkII
Oriental, NC

- Original Message - 
From: "Michael Dean" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.


> Danny,
>
> I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
> screw. (I forgot one year - duh!)  Did it have any effect?  It may also be
> worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees 
> or
> so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4.  Another thing to try is
> to slowly pull the choke out in small increments.  If it idles better then
> something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
> lean at idle.
>
> Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
> too much fuel is entering the carb.  Sometimes the float valve can be 
> freed
> up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the 
> carb
> is empty.  Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
> moment or two.  The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the 
> float
> valve if it is a bit gummy.
>
> I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.
>
> All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
> out the various jets with compressed air.
>
> Mike
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> djhaug...@juno.com
> Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild
>
> Hello all,
>
> I'm looking into rebuilding my carb.  I'm having some idling issues and 

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

2013-08-20 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
I run a racor water separating filter and then there is an inline filter that 
came with the engine between the pump and the carb.

I've seen that can of carb cleaner and was considering that.  for the rebuild 
on the current carb.  If you look at the photos, there is some grit and grime 
in the carb visible when the flame arrestor is removed...  I'm not sure what 
this indicates...  but, it did clean out of there pretty easily with the can of 
carb cleaner.


-- Original Message --
From: Bill Bina 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 10:22:03 -0400

To clean a carb, sprays are pretty futile unless the contamination is 
very fresh. NAPA auto sells a gallon paint can of REAL solvents that 
comes complete with a strainer basket. remove anything from the carb 
that is not METAL, as this stuff will soften or melt all plastics and 
gaskets. Soak the carb, jets, and other metal parts for an hour or two 
and they will be CLEAN. The price will scare you, but you can clean many 
carbs with it. I've had situations where I cleaned a carb and the crap 
in the fuel tank re-clogged it almost immediately. It doesn't take much 
to plug a jet. A brand new carb won't run any better than a 30 year old 
one, if there is crap in the fuel. Off brand filters such as Fram, 
(especially Fram!) often supply their own contamination as they 
disintegrate.

Bill Bina

On 8/20/2013 10:08 AM, Michael Brown wrote:
> I would advise getting a professional rebuild done if the advice here 
> does not help.
>
> There are some other things you could try, such as spray or liquid 
> cleaners, but the
> residue will go through the engine. The Atomic 4 does not have high 
> compression
> or cylinder temperature so those chemicals are going to get to your 
> exhaust hose
> or possibly past the rings. Maybe not, but I would not risk it. It is 
> easy to remove
> the fuel pump water settling cup, partially fill it with carb cleaner, 
> and then idle the
> motor. That will clean the idle circuit reasonably well.
>
> The chemicals used at a rebuild shop will clean all the gum and 
> varnish off.
> A spray just is not strong enough and does not sit concentrated long 
> enough.
>
> A rebuild should also include adjusting the carb on a wet flow bench. 
> The shop
> will use the flow bench to set air/fuel mixture to spec usually at a 
> few points,
>
> 1) on choke
> 2) idle
> 3) wide open throttle
>
> They will also know if the carb is not adjusting correctly, something 
> very hard to
> guess at when trying it on a live engine.
>
> The Zenith carb on Windburn was rebuilt by Carburetor Rebuilders 
> Company Limited
> in Toronto for about $200. They are at:
>
> http://www.carbrebuilders.com/
>
> Mike
>
> C&C 30
> Windburn
>


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Re: Stus-List New halyards

2013-08-20 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
I was trying to get cajun ropes to this for me but after a few emails and I 
sent them a link on the splicing...communication stopped...  I'm still using 
the old wire/rope halyards.  They are in good shape,  I was just hoping to get 
my main halyard back to the cockpit,  Of course, the lazy jacks make that an 
exercise in futility.  I'm thinking to take the advice of Eric Frank and get in 
the habit of pulling the lazy jacks up the the mast after I drop the sail.  Of 
course the downside to this is that someone needs to put it back before 
dropping the mainsail...

-- Original Message --
From: Steve Thomas 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New halyards
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 22:40:35 -0400


In all of the discussions about using high tech line for halyards over the 
years, there is one solution to the problem of the "hand" of the thinner lines 
that I don't recall being suggested. Why not use ordinary half inch or larger 
spliced polyester tails similar to the way that wire and polyester are spliced? 
That sort of splice is beyond my knowledge or skill, as is the wire to 
polyester splice for that matter, but there must be people who know how. It may 
not be possible for every combination, but there must be some products that are 
compatible. This combination would also solve some of the wear problems 
associated with the high tech lines, since the larger diameter polyester tails 
are quite durable and can be sized to be of adequate strength long after they 
get soft and fuzzy.  Steve ThomasC&C27 MKIIIPort Stanley, ON___
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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

2013-08-20 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Sylvan,I'm not really that well versed in carburetor repair.  What is the 
instrument for measuring vacuum and where does one attach such an instrument on 
the A4's carb? Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Sylvain Laplante 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 10:01:11 -0700 (PDT)


 I've always used round toothpicks to clean jets, also useful to remove 
pilot/air jets, spray carb cleaner several times per orifice, and better use an 
air compressor. I still believe this is an air leak in the intake issue. A 
vacuum gauge reading without leak should show between 17 and 21 if I remember 
correctly ( with a steady needle ). SylvainC&C27MkIII From: Robert Wooden 

 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 12:41 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
 
 I have a later model A-4, and had very good luck with the rebuild kit from
Moyer.  As I recall new jets were included.  Be careful as you remove them,
as I recall a deep well socket was used to avoid breakage.

I agree with others that anything beyond solvent (such as manually reaming
or cleaning the jets) will probably lead to other problems.  

Been there, done that, not going to do it again...  

Bob Wooden
Rhapsody 27-3


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Re: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?

2013-08-27 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
I don't know about CS boats... She sure looks nice though.  Hingham is a little 
far for me.  2.5 - 3 hours round trip

Please note: message attached

From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 10:21:35 -0300


  
  

This one just popped up on YachtWorld.
I've heard very positive comments about the build quality of CS
boats.  The 2 avail locally are asking $35000-38000.
The interior layout looks good - with a little extra galley space
and the double rear berth.

Anyone want to check that one out for me???

Mark

  
  
  
  

  

  
  
Click
on image to enlarge 
  

  
  30' 
CS 30
  
  
Year: 1988
Current Price: US$ 22,500 
Located In Hingham, MA
Hull Material: Fiberglass
Engine/Fuel Type: Single diesel
YW# 3144-2638685
  
  http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1988/CS-30-2638685/Hingham/MA/United-States#.UhyjrBusiSo
  -- 

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  


  

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Re: Stus-List 1985 - C&C 33 Winter Boat Cover

2013-08-27 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
I used Fairclough and am very happy with the result.  They were much cheaper 
than the other companies I contacted.  There are a bunch of these at our 
marina.  They had me fill out a form with measurements and then, they came to 
my boat twice.  Once to build the frame and measure for the cover, then to 
install the cover. They say have 100s of existing patterns, they did not have 
mine.  It came out great! DannyLolita1973 Viking 33Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Raymond Macklin 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 1985 - C&C 33 Winter Boat Cover
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 10:14:34 -0500


It is getting to be that time of the year again.� I bought my 1985 C&C 
33 last year and it was stored inside.� This year it is going 
outside.� I am trying to locate an winter cover or a company that makes 
covers for the 33 C&C.� If anyone can point me in the right direction, 
it would be greatly appreciated.
 RayLakeHouseLibertyville, IL___
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Re: Stus-List New (replacement) sails

2013-09-03 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Marek, I went through this last year.  I ended up at a local sail maker just 
for convenience of service.  They came to the boat to measure and to install 
for the first time. I know a lot of people are really happy with Rolly Tasker 
from my research.  the only negatives i found were people who didn't actually 
have their sails.  Those that did were generally happy through all the threads 
I read. ...And you could probably save about 30%  through them. I have no 
experience with them other than getting a quote and I have no connection to 
them. Keep in mind, it is boat show season and most lofts are offering 
discounts of about 15%.  Just call and say you met them at the show.  Newport 
is the weekend of the 14th and Annapolis is in October.  Just check the website 
and see if one of the lofts you are interested in is at the show... Good luck! 
Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "Marek Dziedzic" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List  New (replacement) sails
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 10:25:49 -0400


Hi, The decision has been made - we are getting new sails. The ones we have are 
about 20 years old and even my admiral can see that they are quite blown 
(stretched). Now the questions start: what kind and where to buy. We are in 
Ottawa, so there is no local sail loft. Doyle Sail can accept local orders, but 
I don't expect that they would come to the boat to do the measurements. This 
opens things up a bit, because suddenly there is no difference between anyone 
local and buying the sails on-line (or is there?). Regarding where, I was 
thinking about Rolly Tasker, National Sails Supply, FX Sails (The Sails Store) 
and a few more. Do you have any recommendations (or horror stories)? Regarding 
what: - cruising sails (we don't race) - fairly light (I try not to overpower; 
we reef early or don't sail if it is really blowing (I don't think we sailed 
over 25 kt) and we need good sails for those days when it is hardly blowing at 
all). Is 6.5-7 oz Dacron good? too much, too little? - I would like to get 2nd 
reef on the main - any comments (worth it, not really)? - I am thinking about 
the 135% genoa; however, I find that what I have is a bit small ( I would have 
to check if it is really a 135% or is it smaller). I would not go to 150-155%; 
I don't think I would ever be able to trim it correctly and it would be too 
much to handle. But what about 140%? I could easily handle a sail with the foot 
a 1 ft longer. - some vendors offer a transparent window in the sail; others 
don't.  Any thoughts about that? Any other suggestions, ideas, things to think 
of? thanks Marek___
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Re: Stus-List 2013 Northeast Rendezvous

2013-09-08 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Well done Rob!  I'm sorry I couldn't be there...

Safe journey home to all

Danny

T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network

- Reply message -
From: "Robert Gallagher" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List 2013 Northeast Rendezvous
Date: Sun, Sep 8, 2013 12:13 am
As I walk the docks with beer in one hand, cigar in the other, all the sailors 
nestled in their berths, i gaze at each transom and say thanks to everyone who 
made this year's event a smashing success.


C&C yachts, Good Old Boat Magazine, Mohegan Sun, Rob Ball, David Risch, those 
who came by boat, plane and ferry, happy sailing to all and to all a good night

Till next year...

Rob___
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Re: Stus-List New Boat

2013-09-11 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
My Brother tried trailering a boat from Florida to Alaska about 6-7 years ago.  
He had nothing but problems.  Trailer broke down once, the transmission on the 
F350 broke down twice, I think he had some braking issues.  He said he saw his 
life flash before his eyes like 5 times on that trip.  I think he was coasting 
down hill for good long stretch and then needed to slow down and the rig wasn't 
having it.  I think then he was downshifting the transmission which led to 
those issues.  Trailering a 10,000 lb load with a truck that barely is designed 
for that load is a recipe for multiple problems.  Especially if someone is 
willing to loan you the truck.  They probably don't care to much about it in 
the first place  Just sayin'...Good luck on the closing.  I think the best 
thing is your attitude about the willingness to walk away.  You may lose a few 
hundred on the survey but...better a few hundred then many thousands in 
unforeseen "upgrades!"  LOL  ask me about that sometime! DannyLolita1973 Viking 
33Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: "Marek Dziedzic" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List  New Boat
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 09:31:17 -0400


Mark, congratulations! Now the hard part begins... Having bought (and brought 
from the US) a boat last year, I can share some experience. 1. Survey I would 
strongly suggest doing a survey. You can find the list of local surveyors here: 
http://www.marinesurveyor.com/usa.html Count on about $500 for decent survey. 
But I consider it some of the better spent money in that whole deal. 2. Customs 
broker If you have a third party bringing the boat to Canada (and you are not 
present at the border) hire a Customs Broker. For me, it was the second best 
money spent. Count on about $250. They would prepare all necessary 
documentation, verify that the border crossing you are planning to use does not 
require anything else (and that everything in that package is to their liking - 
the requirements vary from crossing to crossing) and would collect the HST, so 
the boat would not be impounded until you pay it. With the help of the broker, 
my boat cleared in under 10 min. 3. Transport If you plan to sail her, you 
don't need to read on. If you plan to bring her in, the most cost effective 
option is uShip. But beware. Triple verify the reputation of the carrier 
(especially, how long he is in business). There are many fly by night 
operations that seem to be OK and are there only to steal your down payment 
(guess how I know). Your transport should be probably under $2500 (count about 
$1/mile or less). If you are not in rush, only better. Try avoiding sending 
cash. they would insist on getting a big down payment (for the gas); try 
resisting it as much as you can. Consider whatever you pay down as potential 
risk. Everyone I talked to recommended not to use the cradle for transport. It 
happens often enough that the cradle support goes through the hull during the 
transport. If you have a cradle, you can get some non-boat transport company, 
but the savings might be gone if you have to repair the hull. Rather, try 
finding a company that specialises in transporting boats and they would have a 
dedicated boat  trailer. If you plan to transport her yourself, be very 
careful. These boats are heavy and the trailer you have available might not be 
in the best condition. You don't want to destroy the bearings 1500 miles from 
home in the middle of nowhere. Just to give you perspective; the guy who 
brought the boat for me, someone with 15 years experience transporting boats 
and with a new trailer (1 year old) had a bearing in the trailer exploding when 
travelling at about 40 mph. He spent two days driving around for parts and 
fixing it. Before you do that yourself, think if you are up to that challenge. 
Btw. he checked the temperature of each hub and the pressure in each tire every 
hour. I wish you good luck. And strong nerves. Marek ___
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Re: Stus-List New Boat

2013-09-12 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
How about a delivery captain sailing it back for you, or better yet, with you?  
You'd get a crash course and probably some really valuable experience under the 
tutelage of a seasoned salty dawg...  Maybe that same someone could survey the 
boat as well?  Just a thought...

We happen to have just such a character on this list somewhere!

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Boat
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 01:43:56 -0300

Does anyone know the total height of a C&C29 mk2?
I just guessed at 11 ft for the purpose of getting bids - I figure 
pretty close - 5'3" draft and 6 ft interior headroom (starting ~12" 
below water level) then extra for bow and stern pulpit.

As for the shipping comments - I need to sort out the best solution.
Sailing it back would be fun - but maybe not functional for my time 
frame.  I agree, if the boat is not in shape it's better to walk away - 
but I'm nervous about doing my first open water transit in a new (to me) 
boat.
I'm looking at the prices - and I'll have to think hard about the 
challenges of towing ourselves.  The truck is brand new with a towing 
package.  The trailer is a heavy duty trailer, used to carry 
mini-excavators.  I figure we'll total about 9000lbs.

BTW - I've gotten a comment about the mast step being an expensive 
repair - is this a common problem with the 29's?

Mark

-
   Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana

On 11/09/2013 11:02 AM, Hoyt, Mike wrote:
> Mark
>
> Marine Cradle Shop in Oakville can make you a cradle that will fit.
> Plan on approx $1300   You are going to need one anyway.
>
> I trucked my J27 home on a cradle mounted on flatbed trailer.  I draws
> 4.9 feet but has lower freeboard than C&C29.  Find out the height from
> top of cabin/stanhions to bottom of keel and add that to trailer deck
> height.  Plan on flatbed trailer weighing approx 2000 lbs and add that
> to boat disp to ensure you are well under tow capacity of the truck.
> Take all registration papers for trailer with you as customs is far more
> touchy about the trailer coming to canada than they are about a boat
>
> Have fun.
>
> Mike
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr.
> Mark Bodnar
> Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2013 8:39 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List New Boat
>
>
> Ok.  So I'm throwing caution into the wind, at least a bit.
>
> I have an accepted offer on the C&C29 Mk2 in Maine that I mentioned to
> the list a while back.
> http://maine.craigslist.org/boa/4001084479.html
> For $8000.
>
> Having looked a several boats locally (2 C&C29's I quite liked but
> neither would settle for less than $20K, plus a few other boats), and
> given the various options avail I decided that this was my best option.
>
> I think I would have liked to get the CS30, but doubtful they would have
>
> dropped the price to where I would have wanted it.
>
> Little risky making an offer on an unseen boat. I feel like I almost
> can't go wrong for $8000.  Thank's to Bill for trying to get out to see
> it.  The seller has been good about giving me info on the boat, and as
> best I can tell (emails and a phone conversation) seems honest -- I may
> regret that assumption, but the offer is contingent on a survey - so if
> there are any major issues then I'll likely just walk away.  I likely
> wouldn't bother with a survey if I was able to see it personally, but I
> think it's prudent in this case, and will also give me a heads up on
> issues I need to address once I have the boat in my possession.
>
> Now the logistics.  Bill Burketts suggested a surveyor in the area (not
> sure how close) - Gene Barnes.  Anyone have any other suggestions?
>
> Plus the issue of getting the boat home.  I've posted a listing on
> uShip, but we are thinking about just going and hauling it back. I have
> access to a truck that can haul 10-11000lbs, and access to a trailer
> that can hold 14000lbs (I need to confirm that these will work
> together!)
> The boat is currently on jack stands.  I'm thinking either I buy or
> borrow a local cradle.
> Does anyone have measurements on the proper cradle base size and pad
> spacing for a 29 II?
> There is a steel cradle for sale not far away
> http://moncton.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-boats-watercraft-other-Steel-Sa
> ilboat-Cradle-for-Sale-W0QQAdIdZ509847290
> I'm trying to figure out if it will fit the boat properly - seems short
> to me.
>
> For that matter - anyone near Halifax have a sailboat trailer that would
>
> fit a C&C 29? Or know of any at their club that might be avail for rent?
>
> Or a cradle I could rent?
>
> Mark
>


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Re: Stus-List Replacing Edson pedestal steering cable and chain

2013-09-17 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
I had my Edson steering fail on me last year.  The chain part of the 
chain/cable wasn't really long enough and whoever installed it did not make 
sure the chain was properly centered over the sprocket.  So, the rudder went 
full over to one side and was fine but, one time it went full over to port and 
the chain to wire connector rolled up onto the sprocket.  It jammed and when I 
tried to free it, it de-railed and I had steering from just shy of midships to 
port.  There were18 knot winds and 4 - 6 foot seas!  I got Tow boat to take me 
home but, what an experience!  The tow boat guy out of my Marina refused to 
come get me because he said conditions at the mouth of the river that lead to 
my marina were too bad.  They towed me to New Bedford that day and then to my 
home port the following day.  All the years I've paid for tow boat's unlimited 
towing and that was the first time I ever had to call them.  well worth the 
cost over all those years!  At first they wanted to tow me back to Vinyard 
Haven and I refused and had them bring me home.  Unlimited service guarantees 
towing to home port! Get a little extra length on the chain part.  I did that 
for the replacement.  I went straight to Edson as they are just over in New 
Bedford and they confirmed it to be a good idea.  I figured, with the 
chain/cable being properly centered, the extra length of chain was a little 
more added security. DannyLolita1973 Viking 33Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Chuck S 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Stus-List Replacing Edson pedestal steering cable and chain
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 01:17:07 + (UTC)


Replacing Edson pedestal steering cable and chain:

Edson has a great website that shows how the cable crosses inside the pedestal 
so the rudder goes right when you turn the wheel right.

http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/steering_system_replacement_parts/index.php

Here's what I remember:
Basically, you remove the nuts on the cable tensioning bolts on the quadrant, 
rig pull strings for later, slip the cables out of the quadrant.
Then remove the pull strings from the tensioning bolts, remove the saddle 
clamps to free the cable.
Mark the orientation of the pedestal compass and remove it from the pedestal.
Tape pull strings on each cable end.
Pull the chain up off the pedestal sprocket, and pull the strings up and 
through and keep the oriented port and starboard.
Mark the center of the new chain, sharpie pen, for future.
Match the new cable length using the old one as a template, and mark where to 
make the eye with tape, then allow a good length for three clamps and 
doublecheck your work, cut excess.
Tape the new cable ends to your pull strings, and fish the cables down through 
the pedestal and round the sheaves and then make up the ends; thimbles, 
tensioner bolts, saddle clamps.  
Center the wheel, and center the new chain on the sprocket using your mark.  
Use the pull string to pull the new cables around and thru the quadrant.
Center the quadrant with the wheel centered before tensioning things evenly.
Tension just enough to prevent slippage, but not so much that is strains the 
rudder bearings.
Follow Edson advice on website.
 
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJFrom: "Edd Schillay" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 6:23:45 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Steering Cable for a 37+

Len, Thanks. Found it on Defender (thanks Chuck). How hard it it to replace? 

 All the best, Edd ---Edd M. SchillayStarship 
EnterpriseNCC-1701-BC&C 37+ | City Island, 
NYwww.StarshipSailing.com---914.332.4400  | 
Office914.332.1671  | Fax914.774.9767  | 
Mobile---Sent via iPhone 5
On Sep 16, 2013, at 3:52 PM, "Len Mitchell"  wrote:

 Edd, They are 7 feet long and 7 feet will give you extra. If the kit you buy 
is 9 feet you can cut them off. I was in the North Channel when mine went in a 
storm. The nearest replacement was 200 miles south so we used the spare genoa 
halyard cable and come to think of it, I haven't replaced that wire yet 5 years 
later. It's on my list. 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs 
1989 37+ 




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Re: Stus-List Bouncing Off a Shoal

2013-09-30 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Sorry to hear about that Rich...

I hope it all works out with as little additional pain as possible...

Danny
Lolita
Viking 33
Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Knowles Rich 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bouncing Off a Shoal
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2013 19:55:37 -0300

Dunno. Yet. Hauling the boat Tuesday. I was way north if the red marker. Just 
not paying attention. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 29, 2013, at 19:40, Rick Taillieu  wrote:

Yes, ignoring that big red buoy can have its consequences.
I've seen one boat cut through there but it was a Bayfield 29, very shallow
draft.
I hope the damage isn't too expensive to fix.


Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles
Rich
Sent: September-29-13 19:33
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bouncing Off a Shoal

Thrumcap. Not the first to do it but no excuse. Dumb. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 29, 2013, at 19:09, Rick Taillieu  wrote:

Rich, which one did you hit?


Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles
Rich
Sent: September-29-13 18:53
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS Transponder Info

Good day to be rich. I just bounced my boat off a shoal near here and
trashed the rudder. But I'm merely Rich:(

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax



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Re: Stus-List Standing height in C & C 40 1979

2013-10-04 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
OMG that brought back some memories!!!  LMAO


-- Original Message --
From: Wally Bryant 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Standing height in  C & C 40 1979
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2013 01:24:48 +

Anders, maybe you should lay down and munch on some chocolate chip 
cookies and milk.


  Anders Brandt wrote:
> Does anybody know what the standing height in the salon near the stove is in 
> a C & C 40 1979 ?
> I'm pretty high, so it matters a little:-)


-- 
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Looking to upsize. (previously Volvo Diesel - opinions?)

2013-10-08 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Have you thought about a Jeanneau?

-- Original Message --
From: Marek Fluder 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking to upsize. (previously Volvo Diesel - opinions?)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2013 20:56:53 -0400


Thank you all guys for sharing your opinions.They are appreciated very much.The 
actual deal breaker for me happened today afternoon spending some time at my 
dock looking at identical Beneteau 331 and Catalina 34 mk2. There is something 
about Catalinas that strikes my chord... Your opinions confirmed my feelings.I 
am inclined towards Cat 320, ~2000 vintage, but still opened to suggestions. 
MarekC&C 24 "Emilie"Hamilton Harbour, ON 
On 2013-10-07, at 7:58 PM, Indigo  wrote:

 Don�t know the model of the Volvo engine in a fellow Club members Swan, 
but he found that a replacement for a suspected faulty thermostat was not 
available in the USA!� Caused him to miss the Club Cruise.
�
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
 Sent: Monday, October 07, 2013 7:33 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Volvo Diesel - opinions?
�
Water pump for Universal - ~$200
 Water pump for Volvo - $600++
 Starter for Volvo - $600++
 
 In other words, take $$ for Universal or Yanmar part and multiply by 2 or 3 to 
get Volvo part price.
 
 I'm assuming the 331 has a newer Volvo.� If it's an older Volvo, it's 
an anchor.
 
 My opinion, look at a Catalina 309.� Much nicer boat. 
 
 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA
�
�
From: "honeys...@aol.com" 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Monday, October 7, 2013 5:16 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Volvo Diesel - opinions?
�
The parts for the Volvo diesel are VERY, VERY�expensive for 
such�a cheap engine.�I agree with the below assessment that the B 
331 is indeed a pig to sail IMHO is just a over blown Bayliner with a fancy 
name. This is not an example of the finer Beneteau boats.
�
Jack
C&C 39 TM
�
In a message dated 10/7/2013 6:12:11 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
charliekilo...@gmail.com writes:
Don't know about the Volvo diesel, but the B331 is a pig under sail.
 
 Make sure you get a good sea trial so you know what you're getting
 into before you lay down a bunch of dough.
 
 My $0.02
 
 Cheers
 Colin
 
 
 On 10/7/13, Steve Thomas  wrote:
 > Good engines, parts are very expensive.
 >
 > Steve Thomas
 > C&C27 MKIII
 >
 > -Original Message-
 > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Marek
 > Fluder
 > Sent: Monday, October 07, 2013 3:49 PM
 > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 > Subject: Stus-List Volvo Diesel - opinions?
 >
 >
 > I am looking into a larger boat purchase and found a Beneteau 331 with Volvo
 > engine.
 >
 > I would be interested in hearing opinions about these engines especially in
 > Toronto area - availability of decent service, parts,
 > etc.
 >
 > Will appreciate all opinions including remarks about "cata-bene-huntalinas"
 > :)
 >
 >
 > Marek
 >
 > C&C 24 "Emilie"
 >
 > Hamilton Harbour, ON
 >
 >
 
 -- 
 Sent from my mobile device
 
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