Stus-List Re: Your preferences

[Matthew]

Received.

 

Matt Wolford

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2020 1:38 PM
To: Matt Wolford 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Your preferences

 

TEST ONE

Sent to the list, not any individual person 

JDB Coquina

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Stus-List Re: Touche' homeless now

[Matthew]

Dennis:

 

Glad to hear/see your boat’s okay and the logistics, although inconvenient, can 
be worked out.

 

Matt

 

From: Dennis C.  
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2020 5:27 PM
To: CnClist 
Subject: Stus-List Touche' homeless now

 

Well, not really.  My marina/shipyard advised me today they were vacating 
Touche's damaged pier (DUH!).  It could take up to a year to repair.  With the 
hurricane's destruction of several marinas, there are no available slips in 
Pensacola.  Fortunately, I still have my slip in Louisiana.  After haul out and 
repair in Pensacola, I'll keep Touche' in Louisiana until the Pensacola slip is 
rebuilt.  The Pensacola Shipyard has said they will honor my right to return.

 

Can't say enough good about Pensacola Shipyard.  First rate folks.
-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Stus-List Re: Alternator / Inverter / Air Conditioning

[Matthew]

It depends on the condition of your dilithium crystals.

 

From: Edd Schillay  
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2020 10:25 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Alternator / Inverter / Air Conditioning

 

Listers,

 

As some of you already know, we installed air conditioning on the Enterprise a 
couple of months ago. We are currently at the dock on Captiva Island and the 
cabin is a glorious 75 degrees.  According to the installer, at startup and 
maximum compression, the air conditioning on the boat will draw 1400 Watts. 

 

Years ago, when I repowered the boat with a new Beta 30 engine, I added a 120A 
alternator and a 2000W inverter, mostly so my wife can use her hairdryer when 
under way. 

 

My AC panel is switchable between Shore Power and the Inverter’ power. 

 

So here’s the question: Do you think it’s possible to actually run the air 
conditioning with the engine running? The math seems to work, but I am hesitant 
to give it a try. 

 

And, if it doesn’t work, what would actually happen? Are we talking a tripped 
breaker or something bad like alternator issues. 

 

Signed,

 

Clueless in Captiva. 

 

All the best, 

 

Edd





———-

Edd M. Schillay

Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”

C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B

Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

www.StarshipSailing.com 

 

———-

914.774.9767   | Mobile

———-

Sent via iPhone 11 Pro

iPhone. iTypos. iApologize





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Stus-List Re: Bottom paint

[Matthew]

FWIW, Practical Sailor gave ePaint's ZO-HP very high marks shortly after it
hit the market.  Rather than use a biocide, the paint outgasses hydrogen
peroxide or something in sunlight, which the critters don't like.  Being
environmentally aware (and incorrectly believing EPA would soon ban copper
paints), I painted my Custom 42 with ZO-HP about eight years ago and was
disappointed in several particulars: 1) the cost is higher than most bottom
paints; 2) the application conditions (temp/humidity) are relatively narrow;
3) it took a while for the paint to become hard, a result of which was
surface scarring caused by the travel lift straps the first year; 4) the
area near the waterline sloughs off and needs to be repainted annually
(which is more ablative than hard in my view); 5) for freshwater, the paint
did not perform any better than VC17 or my personal favorite, Baltoplate; 6)
after two coats (each two years apart), the paint started "cratering" here
and there (i.e., patches of the surface layer would come off, leaving a
crater-like uneven surface); and 7) it is very difficult to remove with
sandpaper after it's been on for a couple years.  In short, although I liked
the owner of the ePaint company, I suggest passing on ZO-HP.

 

From: David Knecht  
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2020 2:27 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Bottom paint

 

Here is a link to the Practical Sailor tests of bottom paint.  SR60 did
about as well as many in those tests.   Dave

 

https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/paints/marine-maintenance-
bottom-paint-test-results
 

 

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT





 

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Stus-List Re: Racing rules- finishing

[Matthew]

I finished sideways once on a Cal 33 laid over on a broach.  Not sure which
part of the boat crossed first -- could have been the masthead.

-Original Message-
From: Andrew Burton  
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2020 2:35 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Racing rules- finishing

Does it say "the forward part of the bow" or the first part of the boat? I
can see a situation where the current takes the boat over the line
backwards... Or look up a set of pictures allied "The Agony of Mir" where a
yawl lost her main mast right before finishing the Transpac and finished
backwards under mizzen spinnaker.
Andy

Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI 
USA02840

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Stus-List Re: Bottom paint

[Matthew]

Fred:

 

As I mentioned in my note suggesting what NOT to get, I like 
Baltoplate.  However, VC17 is by far the favorite paint for racers in Erie.  
From a slime/growth standpoint, they both work about the same (which, frankly, 
is mediocre -- as was ZO-HP and the Jamestown proprietary ablative paint I’m 
currently using).  I am unaware of a bottom paint that stops the slime/growth 
problem in freshwater, most of which occurs near the water line where sunshine 
can get through.  Periodic scrubbing is the only method I know of to 
effectively deal with this issue.

 

Let us know if you find something that works well.  Thanks.

 

Matt

C&C 42 Custom

Erie, PA

 

From: Fred Hazzard  
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2020 12:27 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Bottom paint

 

Still looking for recommendations for bottom paint for use in fresh water. 

I’m interested in resistance to slime, durability and ease in application. 

Here in Portland, Or we don’t haul out every year, so  lasting over several 
seasons is important.

 

Fred Hazzard 

S/V Fury

 

 

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 2:51 PM Joel Delamirande mailto:joel.delamira...@gmail.com> > wrote:

Magic antifoling you can him messenger 

 

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 2:44 PM David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com> > wrote:

Here is a link to the Practical Sailor tests of bottom paint.  SR60 did about 
as well as many in those tests.   Dave

 

https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/paints/marine-maintenance-bottom-paint-test-results
 

 

 

 

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT





 

 





On Sep 21, 2020, at 2:10 PM, Fred Hazzard mailto:fshazz...@gmail.com> > wrote:

 

I am getting ready to have the bottom repainted. The yard is recommending 

Petit Ultima SR 60. 

Do any of you have experience or strong opinions about this paint. 

 

Our boat is in fresh water 99 % of the time. 

Other paint recommendations would be appreciated. 

 

Fred Hazzard 

S/V Fury 

C&C 44

Portland Or 



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-- 

Joel Delamirande

  

 

www.jdroofing.ca 

 

 

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Stus-List Re: 37+ Cruise Speed

[Matthew]

I had my mast repainted with an epoxy paint about eight years ago.  I don’t 
recall the brand.  It was important to use a primer and to apply the primer in 
certain weather conditions (due to aluminum), but we still had some adhesion 
problems.  The smartest thing I did was select a color that looks like 
aluminum.  The chips and scratches are barely noticeable.

 

From: Stephen Thorne  
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2020 9:24 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 37+ Cruise Speed

 

Hi Folks I am hoping to get some advise on repainting the mast on DejaVu and 
specifically what type of paint to use?

 

DejaVu is a 1990 C&C 34/36+.  The mast came painted from the factory and over 
the years its gotten more than a few scuffs.  With the mast down (in 
preparation of splashing at Lake Lanier) I want to put a top coat of paint on 
it before re-rigging the boat.  Not sure if the original paint is an enamel or 
an epoxy paint?  

My plan is to spend a day prepping the mast taping off areas and hand sanding 
with 220 grit to allow for better adhesion on the top coat.  Following this 
will be a tack cloth with mineral spirits to have the surface clean and ready.

Questions are what paint would be best?  Will i have to first reprime the mast 
or would there be a paint choice that would act both as prime & top coat?  How 
can I find out if the mast was enamel or epoxy paint? 

 

Thank You and appreciate advise ahead of this project.

 

Stephen Thorne

C&C 34/36+ DejaVu'

770.722.2848

 

 

On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 3:53 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I believe the difference is between rated HP and shaft HP, which is generally 
lower after things like transmission loss, accessory loads, and friction.

 

IIRC, an A4 was rated as 30HP, but the shaft HP was something like 17or 18. 
Which is why an2 cylinder Yanmar is a suitable replacement foe an A4.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 ] On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 2:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Joe Della Barba mailto:j...@dellabarba.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

 

What the heck is a 13hp Atomic 4? Mine is 30 HP.

Joe

Coquina

On 8/24/2020 1:26 PM, Daniel A. Willis via CnC-List wrote:

My 1973 30' Mk 1 had a 13hp atomic four but was re-engine 12 years ago with a 
20 hp Universal. She stops on a dime and handles very well with all that power. 
I suspect some might simply have been re-powered over the years as our Santiago 
was. 

 

  _  

 

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Stus-List Re: Potential "Next" Boat - Keel Issue ?'s

[Matthew]

I would not purchase unless someone with expertise took a close look, and I
wouldn’t bother with that unless you really like this particular boat.  I
would also ask the current owner about it.

 

On my 42, I had a gap open up in the same area, although the lead did not
appear to be shifted aft.  There is a naval architect in town that either
worked or interned at C&C back in the 70s, and he was unconcerned.  What
looked to me like a big problem was attributable to filler material used in
that forward area, according to this expert.  I tightened everything up and
filled the gap with a West System mixture (probably colloidal silica), and
the gap has not returned. 

 

From: nausetbe...@optonline.net  
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2020 4:48 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Subject: Stus-List Potential "Next" Boat - Keel Issue ?'s

 

I looked at a boat yesterday that seemed like a good contender for a “next”
boat, right up until just prior to leaving I looked more closely at the keel
and found something that does not look particularly good.  I am hoping for
some sage advice from the list, as in a) walk away, or b) might be repaired,
and if so what would be entailed and is it worth it.  This would have to be
on the current owner’s tab, or a very hefty discount in the price.  

 

I tried to attach low res pics but that exceeded the list max message size,
so here is a link I hope works:  

 

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNHJ22k8kS3ukfBzXz67enViRMDw3GAOASwiS49
uupKViTIDFeNzLj1LE_pav81Yw?key=QkR1X0FXWlgyclBzY1JYcUtIckRJRGh3dzIyMURR

 

The keel has a fairly significant crack extending at least 18” aft from the
leading edge.  [The bottom was recently painted and I did not try to follow
it further aft.]  That gap [in the attached photos] is at least 3/8” on the
horizontal axis and about ¼” on the vertical.  The trailing edge has some
cracks which are not overly visible, again due to the bottom paint.
Unfortunately I did not look closely at / around the keel bolts, nor do I
have any internal photos, as I noticed this after the boat was closed up.
The boat is 4 ½ hours away so getting more photos is not feasible.  

 

To my untrained eye it appears there was a hard grounding and the keel
almost seems to have shifted aft in addition to down, based on the angle of
the line from the fairing of the hull down to the leading edge of the keel.
But there does not appear to be any movement aft at the trailing edge,
though possibly it was punched up.  This does not appear to be along the
sump / keel joint as the crack is angled upwards and is not horizontal.  The
owner claims there have been no hard groundings when asked directly, only a
handful of soft groundings, predominantly in sand, but I have read even that
can do damage.  The boat was recently under contract and surveyed and that
buyer decided against going forward.  The reasons given by the broker did
not include any mention of damage revealed during the survey.  I do not have
a copy of that buyers survey.  

 

Any thoughts on what would need to be done to remedy this, or am I better
off to move on and keep looking?  Should the keel be dropped and the keel
bolts examined?  Or would there be other, less intrusive / expensive fixes
which would be sufficient and safe?  I realize it is difficult to really
determine the best repair without physically examining the boat but any
advice on what likely would be required is appreciated.  

 

Thanks, 

Brian

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Advice for replace/repair of worn Diesel Deck Fill Cap

[Matthew]

This spring I replaced water and diesel fuel deck fills.  I bought stainless
deck fills from Marine Part Depot, which is relatively inexpensive foreign
made stuff but was robust and fit the old holes nearly perfectly.  They
unscrew using one of those bronze spanner wrenches you can buy from Groco.
(I’m sure there are other wrenches that fit.)  After removing the old
chrome-plated deck fills, I gouged out some balsa coring on the inside of
the open holes, wetted the core with West System, and filled in the gouged
out areas with a West System/colloidal silica mixture.  I then used a round
sanding drum to smooth the inside surface and fit the replacement deck
fills, and I also isolated the deck screws with epoxy.  I then installed the
replacement deck fills with a good sealant.  Inside, I used Groco 1 ½”
stainless hose barbs, which is admittedly overkill.   I suspect most people
use a plastic hose barb for this purpose. 

 

It sounds like a lot of work, but it wasn’t too bad. 

 

From: Marek Dziedzic  
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2020 2:01 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Advice for replace/repair of worn Diesel Deck Fill
Cap

 

The chances that you might find a replacement cap are slim to none. Somehow
all the standards have changed since the original were installed.

 

I am in a similar boat; most of my fill caps are worn, not working or
temporary. I need to replace all three (water, waste and fuel).

 

Is there a recommended, good fill that is reasonably easy to install and
will not require half of the boat to be redone?

 

Marek

 

1994 C270 ”Legato”

Ottawa, ON

 

 

 

From: kelly petew 
Sent: 29 September, 2020 12:22
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Stus-List Advice for replace/repair of worn Diesel Deck Fill Cap

 

The deck fill caps on my 30-2 require a winch handle to remove.  The diesel
cap has worn to the point where the winch head [of the handle] no longer
fits well.  

Has anyone found a suitable replacement?   I see several possibilities at
Defender, but I’m concerned the threading won’t match exactly.  

 

Or, has anyone made a “plug” or insert for the deck fill, maybe a large hex
nut welded to a threaded rod?  

 

Thanks,

 

Pete Winters

Siren Song

1991 C&C30-2

Deltaville, Va.

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Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

[Matthew]

The engine-mounted fuel pump on my Westerbeke pulls fuel from the tank, through 
a Racor, then to the engine.  Shortly after I bought the boat, I experienced 
problems with air getting into the line.  We couldn’t figure out where, so we 
installed an electric pump between the tank and the Racor, so now fuel is 
pushed from a point just after the tank (in addition to being pulled from the 
engine).  This solved the air bubble problem.  While we were at it, we 
installed a cheap in-line fuel filter just before the electric pump.

 

From: Josh Muckley  
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2020 12:06 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

 

Excellent catch Chuck!  Those do look like typical compression fittings on the 
Racor and IMO should be suspect.

 

Josh 

 



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Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

[Matthew]

It usually works without it.  The thing is, everything’s fine until it isn’t, 
and I typically do not have people on board to bleed the lines or run the boat 
while I’m down below bleeding the lines.  Better to leave the electric pump on. 
 Belt and suspenders.

 

From: Bill Coleman  
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2020 4:52 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

 

Now that you have removed and re-installed your tank, maybe you could try 
turning off the electric pump and see if it works without it.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

 

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Stus-List Two questions

[Matthew]

Listers:

 

I have two unrelated questions:

 

1.  One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small
windows down below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever
you call it).  The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the
cabin can be screwed into.  There is no coring around the windows, however;
just fiberglass (about ¼” thick).  Any thoughts on how best to attach the
planking to the inside fiberglass?  I suppose I could epoxy the planking in
place, but this seems like overkill and a lot of work.

 

2.  A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the
deck around the mast.  I believe the easiest way to accomplish this, without
going crazy and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically placed
rope clutches.  To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct height,
I will need to make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a rope
clutch).  I could use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard, which
does not; or something else that does not require maintenance.  Any
suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Matt 

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Two questions

[Matthew]

1976 C&C 42 Custom.

 

My plan for the windows was inspired by window trim I saw on a photo of 1973 
C&C Custom 48 posted on Yachtworld a year or two ago.  I was going to provide a 
link to illustrate what I’m talking about, but the boat is no longer listed.  I 
would attach a photo scan but Stu’s size limits usually do not permit it.

 

From: Len Mitchell  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 11:51 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Two questions

 

Matt, What model and year is your boat? Someone has probably already crossed 
that bridge and may have pictures to help you. 

Len Mitchell

Crazy Legs

1989 37+

Midland On 

Sent from my iPad





On Oct 7, 2020, at 11:38 AM, Matthew mailto:wolf...@erie.net> > wrote:



Listers:

 

I have two unrelated questions:

 

1.  One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small windows 
down below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever you call 
it).  The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the cabin can be 
screwed into.  There is no coring around the windows, however; just fiberglass 
(about ¼” thick).  Any thoughts on how best to attach the planking to the 
inside fiberglass?  I suppose I could epoxy the planking in place, but this 
seems like overkill and a lot of work.

 

2.  A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the deck 
around the mast.  I believe the easiest way to accomplish this, without going 
crazy and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically placed rope 
clutches.  To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct height, I will 
need to make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a rope clutch).  I 
could use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard, which does not; or 
something else that does not require maintenance.  Any suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Matt 

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Two questions

[Matthew]

Great answers!  Thanks as always, Dennis.

 

From: Dennis C.  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 11:58 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Two questions

 

 

 

On Wed, Oct 7, 2020 at 10:38 AM Matthew mailto:wolf...@erie.net> > wrote:

Listers:

 

I have two unrelated questions:

 

1.   One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small windows 
down below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever you call 
it).  The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the cabin can be 
screwed into.  There is no coring around the windows, however; just fiberglass 
(about ¼” thick).  Any thoughts on how best to attach the planking to the 
inside fiberglass?  I suppose I could epoxy the planking in place, but this 
seems like overkill and a lot of work.

 Tape around the trim pieces and glue the wood with a small bead of 3M 5200.

2.   A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the deck 
around the mast.  I believe the easiest way to accomplish this, without going 
crazy and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically placed rope 
clutches.  To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct height, I will 
need to make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a rope clutch).  I 
could use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard, which does not; or 
something else that does not require maintenance.  Any suggestions?

StarBoard.  Note the small Powercleat between the triple rope clutch and the 
companionway.  It's raised on a small StarBoard pad.  I used a 1/4 inch 
roundover router bit.

  See: 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsYXlZZ2ZRX21Rd3M/view?usp=sharing 
<https://linkprotect.cudasvc.com/url?a=https%3a%2f%2fdrive.google.com%2ffile%2fd%2f0B_sb5TfIENvsYXlZZ2ZRX21Rd3M%2fview%3fusp%3dsharing&c=E,1,e4PnEKLlGqkMJRYlbQx4my8WBypWumJNB9bV8nAygzaQimI7d04ihtUVm4vFvAM1R8rm7vH3__xXzC7RG6zAC2PiFSBZr9FivFfP6pRUKQ5-mpuBDCCk&typo=1>
   

 Thanks in advance.

 

Matt 

 

 

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-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

[Matthew]

Thanks, Joe.

 

My mechanic became a diesel expert working on diesel engines in Vietnam.  I’m 
pretty sure he knows what he’s doing.  The concern you raise in point 2, below, 
is likely why he installed an in-line filter before the electric pump.

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:11 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

 

Putting the pump first and running fuel under pressure can solve some problems. 
The Racor does not care if fuel gets pushed in one end or pulled out the other 
end. 

Why it is a bad idea:

1.  The filters are designed for vacuum side installation for safety. A 
leak will tend to suck air in and make the engine quit. A leak under pressure 
can seep or spray fuel and still leave enough to run the engine. This is really 
bad when the fuel is gasoline and not great for diesel.
2.  The pump is now the first line of defense. Dirt/sand/algae/etc. can now 
clog the pump up and it is a lot harder to unclog a pump than a filter!

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com  

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Two questions

[Matthew]

Thanks, Bill.  I have four brand new self-tailing winches sitting in my
basement – right next to the two rope clutches.  In addition, self-tailers
are on there now.  The issue is not freeing up a cleat, but freeing up a
winch (by removing the halyard, which may be under load).  My goal is to go
from 6 to 4 winches.

 

Also, I have not ruled out putting the clutch on the mast.  

 

From: Bill Coleman  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:08 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Two questions

 

I would advise you to put a search for Barient winches on EBay, and replace
a couple with self tailers  and that would solve your clutch problem. They
pop up occasionally.

Or, buy a Self Tailing kit from that fellow in SF, CA, for your existing
winches.

I know, you think I already told you this before, but that was for your
cockpit winches. Which I still think is a good idea.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Matthew [mailto:wolf...@erie.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 11:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Subject: Stus-List Two questions

 

Listers:

 

I have two unrelated questions:

 

1.  One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small
windows down below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever
you call it).  The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the
cabin can be screwed into.  There is no coring around the windows, however;
just fiberglass (about ¼” thick).  Any thoughts on how best to attach the
planking to the inside fiberglass?  I suppose I could epoxy the planking in
place, but this seems like overkill and a lot of work.

 

2.  A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the
deck around the mast.  I believe the easiest way to accomplish this, without
going crazy and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically placed
rope clutches.  To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct height,
I will need to make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a rope
clutch).  I could use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard, which
does not; or something else that does not require maintenance.  Any
suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Matt 

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

[Matthew]

Points well taken, Joe and David.  Perhaps I need a pressure gauge.  Right 
after the window trim and rope clutch mounting.

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:42 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

 

And if you can’t pull a vacuum you have an air leak someplace! 

I needed two gauges because the vacuum was on both sides of the Racor, fuel 
fill hose pieces were dropping into the tank, getting sucked onto the intake 
tube, and falling off when I went to change the “clogged” filter. It drove me 
NUTS figuring THAT out!

My vacuum gauge is down by the filter and my pressure gauge is in the cockpit. 
It has a red light that comes on below 1 PSI fuel pressure too.

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com  

 

 

 

From: David Knecht [mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:35 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

 

I want to second Joe's thought.  I have not had fuel problems, but just 
installed a vacuum gauge (from Joe and Josh’s previous recommendations) a few 
weeks ago and it was so simple there is no reason not to do it.  I added the 
more expensive drag pointer type gauge  
(https://www.sbmar.com/product/vacuum-gauge-rear-low-profile-mount/ 

 ) so I did not have to be looking at the gauge while the engine is running (in 
case it isn’t) but still under $100 for the gauge.  I simply cut the line 
between the Racor and the fuel pump, removed a few inches of tubing and plugged 
the line into the barbed fittings of the gauge.  I got no reading when I ran 
the engine, but then to test, I gradually closed the shut off lever and as it 
got near closed, the vacuum started to register.  That made me happy indicating 
my several years old Racor primary was fine.  One less thing to worry about and 
diagnose in an emergency.   Should have done it a long time ago.  Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

On Oct 7, 2020, at 12:16 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

I am probably getting repetitive, but please BUY SOME GAUGES! I currently have 
a fuel pressure gauge with the sensor on the output side of the pump and a 
vacuum gauge on the output side of the filter before the pump. I temporarily 
had a second vacuum gauge on the input side of the filter too. It took all 
three gauges to track down a couple oddball fuel feed issues I had been having 
for years that NEVER could have solved otherwise.

I can give some links if you are curious. A whole box of gauges is cheaper than 
one tow home or one ruined trip.

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I

 

 www.dellabarba.com

 

 

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to send contribution --

 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

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Stus-List Re: Two questions

[Matthew]

By the way, who is the fellow in SF?

 

From: Bill Coleman  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:08 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Two questions

 

I would advise you to put a search for Barient winches on EBay, and replace
a couple with self tailers  and that would solve your clutch problem. They
pop up occasionally.

Or, buy a Self Tailing kit from that fellow in SF, CA, for your existing
winches.

I know, you think I already told you this before, but that was for your
cockpit winches. Which I still think is a good idea.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Matthew [mailto:wolf...@erie.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 11:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Subject: Stus-List Two questions

 

Listers:

 

I have two unrelated questions:

 

1.  One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small
windows down below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever
you call it).  The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the
cabin can be screwed into.  There is no coring around the windows, however;
just fiberglass (about ¼” thick).  Any thoughts on how best to attach the
planking to the inside fiberglass?  I suppose I could epoxy the planking in
place, but this seems like overkill and a lot of work.

 

2.  A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the
deck around the mast.  I believe the easiest way to accomplish this, without
going crazy and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically placed
rope clutches.  To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct height,
I will need to make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a rope
clutch).  I could use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard, which
does not; or something else that does not require maintenance.  Any
suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Matt 

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Two questions

[Matthew]

Thanks, Nathan.

The holes in the deck after removing the two winches will be covered by either 
the existing teak (plugs) or matching starboard -- I haven't decided.  In any 
event, they will be filled with epoxy, not a sealant.

-Original Message-
From: Nathan Post  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:54 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Two questions

I used starboard as spacers under my clutches and I am happy with the result. I 
have the halyards run back on the cabin top on my boat although I am not 
convinced that is really an advantage over having them at the mast since at the 
mast would make reefing and other things actually easier when short handled. 

Having the halyard run back to the cabin was done by PO and they didn’t do a 
good job patching the holes from the old winches On the deck near the mast 
resulting in leaks. I think that some adhesive sealant was used in the holes 
but over time it got brittle and didn’t adhere well to the sides of the holes. 

I redid that by grinding out a bevel, filling the hole with thickened epoxy and 
 laying a few layers of glass and epoxy across the top of each hole.  Then I 
sanded flat, filled any dips, and repainted the deck Which was previously 
painted. 

If you don’t want to paint everything or try to match gel coat color you might 
be better off putting a round pan head machine screw back in the hole with 
butyl tape under the washer to seal the hole.

Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C&C 34
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Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

[Matthew]

Thanks for heads-up and additional info.  Fortunately I’m in the smelly mess 
category.  I will nevertheless raise the issue with my diesel guy.

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 1:50 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

 

Racor themselves told me to do this once and I had to point out it was a 
massive safety issue and violated both ABYC and CFRs on a boat.
My boat is gas powered, an ounce an hour leak could blow the boat up. Diesel 
seeping out will probably just make a smelly mess.

Your filter now is essentially a water trap. The element will last forever.

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com <http://www.dellabarba.com> 

 

 

 

From: Matthew [mailto:wolf...@erie.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:43 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

 

Thanks, Joe.

 

My mechanic became a diesel expert working on diesel engines in Vietnam.  I’m 
pretty sure he knows what he’s doing.  The concern you raise in point 2, below, 
is likely why he installed an in-line filter before the electric pump.

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:11 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

 

Putting the pump first and running fuel under pressure can solve some problems. 
The Racor does not care if fuel gets pushed in one end or pulled out the other 
end. 

Why it is a bad idea:

1.  The filters are designed for vacuum side installation for safety. A 
leak will tend to suck air in and make the engine quit. A leak under pressure 
can seep or spray fuel and still leave enough to run the engine. This is really 
bad when the fuel is gasoline and not great for diesel.
2.  The pump is now the first line of defense. Dirt/sand/algae/etc. can now 
clog the pump up and it is a lot harder to unclog a pump than a filter!

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com <http://www.dellabarba.com> 

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Two questions

[Matthew]

Hadn’t given it a thought.  I’ll look tomorrow at the types/sizes and let you 
know what they are.  They are not all self-tailers, by the way.  (The 
replacement Lewmars are.)

 

From: Joel Delamirande  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 7:48 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Two questions

 

How much are selling your winches

 

On Wed, Oct 7, 2020 at 12:50 PM Matthew mailto:wolf...@erie.net> > wrote:

Thanks, Bill.  I have four brand new self-tailing winches sitting in my 
basement – right next to the two rope clutches.  In addition, self-tailers are 
on there now.  The issue is not freeing up a cleat, but freeing up a winch (by 
removing the halyard, which may be under load).  My goal is to go from 6 to 4 
winches.

 

Also, I have not ruled out putting the clutch on the mast.  

 

From: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com> > 
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:08 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Two questions

 

I would advise you to put a search for Barient winches on EBay, and replace a 
couple with self tailers  and that would solve your clutch problem. They pop up 
occasionally.

Or, buy a Self Tailing kit from that fellow in SF, CA, for your existing 
winches.

I know, you think I already told you this before, but that was for your cockpit 
winches. Which I still think is a good idea.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Matthew [mailto:wolf...@erie.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 11:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Subject: Stus-List Two questions

 

Listers:

 

I have two unrelated questions:

 

1.   One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small windows 
down below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever you call 
it).  The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the cabin can be 
screwed into.  There is no coring around the windows, however; just fiberglass 
(about ¼” thick).  Any thoughts on how best to attach the planking to the 
inside fiberglass?  I suppose I could epoxy the planking in place, but this 
seems like overkill and a lot of work.

 

2.   A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the deck 
around the mast.  I believe the easiest way to accomplish this, without going 
crazy and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically placed rope 
clutches.  To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct height, I will 
need to make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a rope clutch).  I 
could use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard, which does not; or 
something else that does not require maintenance.  Any suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Matt 

 

 

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-- 

Joel Delamirande

  
<https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0Bzdvlj_zFQR9UUZyRjFCM0FGejZXeGd5WFVnVTZRb0Y0Q1lZ&export=download>
 

www.jdroofing.ca 
<https://linkprotect.cudasvc.com/url?a=http%3a%2f%2fwww.jdroofing.ca&c=E,1,8UD6CidY5P-bMpTmsQ3I_Ii-kjo9NqishD3zSzE0Kkk2vbK8LVJdswbc_fLvXkz1RJF_n-NujRmHXIlmRenJRS5D5fTum7mG5UCFLt8HE2tlAw,,&typo=1>
 

 

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Stus-List Re: Cockpit drains

[Matthew]

Groco makes beautiful stuff, and I’m fairly certain they make stainless cockpit 
drains.  Don’t know the price.

 

From: Joel Delamirande  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 7:18 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Cockpit drains

 

I’m looking for cockpit drains for a cnc 30

1973

There 1 1/2” -1 3/4” in size and tapered at the top where it sits on the floor

I would like to be in stainless and don’t 300-400$ a drain if that possible 

Let me know where you guys shop

Joel Delamirande 

Whistler 2

-- 

Joel Delamirande

  

 

www.jdroofing.ca 

 

 

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Stus-List Re: weather station

[Matthew]

I don't know what our Club uses, but it's reliable and helpful.  Check out
http://www.erieyachtclub.org/weatherlink/iphone/#live_weather .  It will
work on a computer, but I have more functionality on my iPhone (as the link
name suggests).  The display is plain vanilla.  The info is accurate.

 

If this is of any interest, I'll find out what we're using.

 

From: Marek Dziedzic  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 7:16 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List weather station

 

Hi,

 

This is not C&C related, but certainly sailing-related.

 

I have a general question to anyone who is involved in running a weather
station for the sailing club (or similar). Our Club had various weather
stations over the years, but the last one failed about a year ago and we did
not have anything this season. I was asked to investigate what we could use.

 

I have two options already: Davis Vantage Pro 2 and WeatherFlow Tempest.

 

Davis w/s is reasonably high-end, but it also has a rather high-end price.
WeatherFlow is very new, has very attractive pricing and no moving parts.

 

If I correctly remember someone on the list was involved with the
WeatherFlow initial KickStarter action. If this is correct, any comments or
experience would be of great value.

 

This will be a Sailing Club w/s, so the most important parameters are wind
speed and direction; anything else is a bonus.

 

If you have any suggestions, comments, ideas, recommendations for or
against, I would greatly appreciate it.

 

Since this might not be of interest to all listers, potentially use a direct
email.

 

Thanks

 

Marek Dziedzic

Ottawa, On

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Cockpit drains

[Matthew]

My 1976 Custom 42 came with the cheap bathroom-style drains described in an 
earlier note.  I am replacing mine with white marelon Forespar drains, which I 
did decades ago on a Ranger 26.  They are much more robust than what’s being 
replaced, and I do not view cockpit drains to be as critical as thru-hull 
fittings (where, unlike many, I will only use metal).

 

From: David Risch  
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2020 10:15 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Cockpit drains

 

My 1981 40 – 2 is metal…

 

I would prefer metal for that critical component.

 



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Stus-List Re: boat stuff for sale

[Matthew]

Please be sure to trim your messages when replying to an email.
Starting recently, all the e-mail I'm getting from the list has the "trim
your messages" message (below) and nothing else.

-Original Message-
From: Edd Schillay  
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2020 11:37 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: boat stuff for sale

Please be sure to trim your messages when replying to an email.
October is time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: List problems

[Matthew]

Please be sure to trim your messages when replying to an email.
Stu: FYI, I can read your message by opening the middle (of three)
attachments.  The message is not in the e-mail note itself.

-Original Message-
From: Stu  
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2020 2:54 PM
To: C&C Email List 
Subject: Stus-List List problems

Please be sure to trim your messages when replying to an email.
October is time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Life Seal issue

[Matthew]

Listers:

 

I know at least some of you use Life Seal, and I'm looking
for some insight.  This past spring I used Life Seal to bed an aluminum
winch base to my nonskid gelcoat cabin top.  I now need to remove it to
access a couple bolts (g), and the Life Seal does not want to let go.
Any tricks of the trade?

 

Matt

C&C 42 Custom

 

Matthew L. Wolford 
638 West Sixth Street 
Erie, PA 16507 
(814) 459-9600 (Office) 
(814) 459-9661 (Fax) 
(814) 392-5599 (Cell) 

The information contained in this e-mail note and any attachments is
intended for the personal and confidential use of the designated
recipient(s). This communication may be an attorney-client communication,
attorney work product, or otherwise privileged, confidential, or protected
from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient
or an authorized agent, you are hereby notified that you have received this
communication in error, and that any review, dissemination, distribution,
copying of, use of, or reliance upon this communication is prohibited. If
you believe this communication was sent to you in error, do not read it.
Please reply to the sender that you received the note in error and delete
it. Thank you.

Please consider the environment before printing this note.

 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C29 Mk2 Polars

[Matthew]

"Polars" are commonly used "cheat sheets" (not really) that help optimize 
downwind performance.  Some boats will reach a mark faster (better VMG) going 
the shortest distance, while other (usually sportier) boats will get there 
faster tacking down wind.  The polar information provides target direction and 
boat speed for a given boat in various conditions. 

-Original Message-
From: Thomas Perison  
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2020 8:00 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C29 Mk2 Polars

John -
Can you clarify “Polars”?  I have an ‘84 29-mk2 ... haven’t heard this term 
before. 
R
Tom
“Therapy” 
Solomons, MD 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 22, 2020, at 7:54 PM, John Heaton  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi folks - first post. I would be interested to see if anyone has done / 
> obtained a set of polars for a C&C29 mk2?
> 
> thanks
> 
> Double on the Rocks
> Toronto
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Is the list inactive....

[Matthew]

Neil:

 

Showed up here.  I recently sent Dennis a thank you re: my 
Lifeseal question which also didn’t show up on the list.  Assuming this does: 
thanks, Dennis – and excellent paint job!

 

Matt

 

From: Neil Gallagher  
Sent: Friday, October 23, 2020 12:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: Is the list inactive

 

I've been having problems, actually for months.  Stopped getting any Stu's list 
emails in May, rejoined in the summer but didn't get any, and finally rejoined 
two weeks ago and am now getting them. 

I sent a reply two days ago and it never appeared, so someone let me know if 
this doesn't show up ;-)

Neil  Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 10/22/2020 9:37 PM, Rick Brass wrote:

Or do I have a problem?

 

I’ve not gotten any messages since October 17th. Five days with nothing from 
stu’s list is really unusual… and I’m going through C&C withdrawal.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 






October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Winches

[Matthew]

Listers:

 

I forget who asked about the winches I'm replacing.  There are four Merriman
Holbrook 25 non-STs and two Barient 23 STs.  I haven't given any thought to
what I will do with them or how much I would sell them for, but I don't plan
to get rich on my C&C list friends.  If anyone is interested, let me know.

 

Matt

 

 

Matthew L. Wolford 
638 West Sixth Street 
Erie, PA 16507 
(814) 459-9600 (Office) 
(814) 459-9661 (Fax) 
(814) 392-5599 (Cell) 

The information contained in this e-mail note and any attachments is
intended for the personal and confidential use of the designated
recipient(s). This communication may be an attorney-client communication,
attorney work product, or otherwise privileged, confidential, or protected
from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient
or an authorized agent, you are hereby notified that you have received this
communication in error, and that any review, dissemination, distribution,
copying of, use of, or reliance upon this communication is prohibited. If
you believe this communication was sent to you in error, do not read it.
Please reply to the sender that you received the note in error and delete
it. Thank you.

Please consider the environment before printing this note.

 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Winches

[Matthew]

Don’t know without measuring.  They’re not very large.  There may be 
information on the Australian winch company site that sells Barient parts. 

 

From: Robert Mazza  
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2020 11:42 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winches

 

What is the base diameter of the Barient 23 STs?

 

On Sat, Oct 24, 2020, 11:26 AM Matthew, mailto:wolf...@erie.net> > wrote:

Listers:

 

I forget who asked about the winches I’m replacing.  There are four Merriman 
Holbrook 25 non-STs and two Barient 23 STs.  I haven’t given any thought to 
what I will do with them or how much I would sell them for, but I don’t plan to 
get rich on my C&C list friends.  If anyone is interested, let me know.

 

Matt

 

 

Matthew L. Wolford 
638 West Sixth Street 
Erie, PA 16507 
(814) 459-9600 (Office) 
(814) 459-9661 (Fax) 
(814) 392-5599 (Cell) 

The information contained in this e-mail note and any attachments is intended 
for the personal and confidential use of the designated recipient(s). This 
communication may be an attorney-client communication, attorney work product, 
or otherwise privileged, confidential, or protected from disclosure under 
applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient or an authorized agent, 
you are hereby notified that you have received this communication in error, and 
that any review, dissemination, distribution, copying of, use of, or reliance 
upon this communication is prohibited. If you believe this communication was 
sent to you in error, do not read it. Please reply to the sender that you 
received the note in error and delete it. Thank you.

Please consider the environment before printing this note.

 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Winches

[Matthew]

I found a manual on the C&C photo album site.

 

From: Robert Mazza  
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2020 11:42 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winches

 

What is the base diameter of the Barient 23 STs?

 

 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Winches

[Matthew]

42 Custom.  Spin halyards.

 

From: dmcmil...@shaw.ca  
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2020 3:11 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winches

 

What size boat are they off of? I am assuming these were used as genoa
winches?

 

From: Matthew mailto:wolf...@erie.net> > 
Sent: October 24, 2020 8:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Subject: Stus-List Winches

 

Listers:

 

I forget who asked about the winches I'm replacing.  There are four Merriman
Holbrook 25 non-STs and two Barient 23 STs.  I haven't given any thought to
what I will do with them or how much I would sell them for, but I don't plan
to get rich on my C&C list friends.  If anyone is interested, let me know.

 

Matt

 

 

Matthew L. Wolford 
638 West Sixth Street 
Erie, PA 16507 
(814) 459-9600 (Office) 
(814) 459-9661 (Fax) 
(814) 392-5599 (Cell) 

The information contained in this e-mail note and any attachments is
intended for the personal and confidential use of the designated
recipient(s). This communication may be an attorney-client communication,
attorney work product, or otherwise privileged, confidential, or protected
from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient
or an authorized agent, you are hereby notified that you have received this
communication in error, and that any review, dissemination, distribution,
copying of, use of, or reliance upon this communication is prohibited. If
you believe this communication was sent to you in error, do not read it.
Please reply to the sender that you received the note in error and delete
it. Thank you.

Please consider the environment before printing this note.

 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Winches

[Matthew]

As I recall, as an alternative some people were purchasing a "winch" chuck
for use in a Milwaukee power tool that accomplishes the same thing for less
money.

 

From: David Knecht  
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2020 12:49 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winches

 

Hi Mark- Thanks for posting the link to the eWincher.  I had not heard of it
but the reviews I have read so far are very positive
(https://www.yachtingmedia.com/magazine/ewincher-test.html#

).  I have been getting concerned about when age will limit my genoa
cranking power and have been keeping an eye on electric winches.  This looks
like a great alternative.  Not cheap, but you only need one of them.  If
anyone gets one, please report back.  

Related to this- I have spent the entire season racing single handed with my
110% genoa.  I decided I would be single handed due to Covid and did not
want to spend the summer winching in the larger (145%) sail myself.  My
experience has been that the boat is remarkably fast and competitive with
the smaller genoa, especially given the PHRF rating change gives some
compensation.  Even in light winds, my overall results were comparable to my
140% genoa.  The big difference is being able to easily tack the boat in
heavier air.  I will have to think hard about what to do next year (or
whenever) I begin to sail with crew again.  Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT








 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to
this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Winches

[Matthew]

https://www.thecranker.com/

 

From: Joel Aronson  
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2020 2:59 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winches

 

Matthew, yes, an 18 volt Milwaukee angle drill seems to be the $400 solution.  
Have not tried it but I’ve seen it used to hoist someone up my mast.  

 

Joel 

 

On Mon, Oct 26, 2020 at 2:19 PM Matthew mailto:wolf...@erie.net> > wrote:

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Stus-List Re: Winches

[Matthew]

I don’t disagree.  Cranking winches keeps you strong and healthy – like eating 
Wheaties for breakfast.

 

From: Marek Dziedzic  
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2020 4:29 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winches

 

I have to be a contrarian...  

 

I have seen numerous ideas for electrifying the winches. Some more reasonable 
than others. 

 

I can imagine that some of them might be helpful in real life. Others? I am 
afraid, not so much.

 

I am in a retirement age, but I'd rather crank my winch manually than try 
handling a big honking angle driver (3-5 lb) with an adapter, especially, if it 
is in anger (any seaway, wind etc.).

 

The eWincher that someone mentioned seems to be better than many.

 

I don't see much point in adjusting the sails using these devices. I can 
imagine, if you are hoisting a big main, it might offer some advantage, but 
even then, I would spend the money on improving the track and cars, rather than 
on the electric assist. 

 

I also don't believe in hoisting anyone on the mast using any kind of winch. I, 
occasionally, climb the mast without any outside assistance, but if I can get 
help, I still climb and use the winch/clutch as the belaying device (a child 
can crank it; there is no load on that line).

 

I can, though, imagine that someone with serious physical limitations 
(injuries, illness) could benefit from using such devices. 

 

I hope I did not touch some hot button here.

 

Marek 

 

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list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Cockpit cushion foam

[Matthew]

In my view, harder, closed cell foam is the way to go for cockpit cushions.
I got mine from local upholstery/cushion shop about 10 years ago.  Trying to
find a replacement source on-line has been a challenge.  I'm interested in
hearing what other listers have to say on this topic.

 

From: David Risch  
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2020 10:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Cockpit cushion foam

 

Our cockpit cushion covers are fine but the foam is soft.  Started to do
research of closed cell foam and my eyes started to water.  Anybody replace
their foam and have a reasonable source to purchase it?

 

Thanks in advance.

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: decision help on moving a boat

[Matthew]

JP:

 

For what it’s worth, a 44 foot boat is a lot of boat to truck.  
I’m not suggesting it can’t be done, but there can be complications with a boat 
that big.  My 42 was shipped by truck approximately 45 miles when I purchased 
her.  She needed a “double drop” trailer (or some comparable name) due to the 
height.  Although it was shipped on its winter cradle, an area of the hull 
where it sat on the forward cradle piece was damaged in transit (the other 
glass skin was cracked).  I had it repaired no problem, but it happened.  The 
trucking company had no issues on main highways but almost didn’t get through 
the tunnel on the yacht club road (we had to remove the stanchions).  I would 
not ship my boat by truck unless the alternatives are daunting.

 

Matt  

 

From: ja...@jpiworldwide.com  
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2020 12:37 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Subject: Stus-List Re: decision help on moving a boat

 

Thanks all for the notes on the ideas to move Alethea from LA to Seattle. From 
what I understand of the history of this boat it is a SORC champion, and has 
been on long extended cruises offshore. I am comfortable with my skills to sail 
her offshore and she is currently suited for a 3-4 week trip in blue water. And 
I have folks that can help crew for an extended period to move her by sailing 
her to Seattle from LA.  I have been studying various seasonal patterns and 
July/August seems to be the most favorable for a deep water cruise sailing 1000 
miles or so WNW  then back to the ENE to the straits of Juan de Fuca… however 
this means waiting till next summer. I have had a lot of people “wave me off” 
of sailing north along the coast… everyone says it’s horrible and the trip 
takes 4-5 weeks usually… sailing south is fine (Seattle/LA), but the other 
direction, not so much. 

 

On the other hand I have only seen two companies that would be able to give me 
a quote for moving boat and mast ( approx. 60’ of mast and 44’+ of boat) via 
truck… I am contacting the trucking companies that you all fine people  have 
recommended on the list. This would let me get her up here sooner and start 
refitting for world cruising…(Yes I’d take a C&C on a world cruise 😊) 

 

Still would appreciate other ideas on sailing vs. trucking , contacts for 
trucking, and I appreciate all the input so far. This is one of the best owners 
list there is…


JP

Alethea

 

From: Doug Mountjoy  
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2020 8:18 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: decision help on moving a boat

 

Some friends sailed their 52 Irwin up the west coast. Said they would never do 
it again. You will be beating all the way. Only way is to sail out to Hi. Then 
up to te straits of Juan de fuca. 

 

 

 

Doug Mountjoy

sv Rebecca Leah 

C&C Landfall 39

Port Orchard yacht club

 

 Original message 

From: ja...@jpiworldwide.com   

Date: 10/26/20 13:41 (GMT-08:00) 

To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Subject: Stus-List decision help on moving a boat 

 



 

Hi All,

 

I am considering moving my recent purcahse from So Cal to Washington State. I 
have two options… 1) move it from So Cal next summer when the weather windows 
are more predictable and the weather milder by sailing it up (two weeks – NW 
route out of So Cal for a Week, then a NE course to Washington for about a 
week…LONG TACK) 😊 OR

 

2) Move it by truck now and do some work during the winter…

 

So – If I choose 1) any thoughts on that and if 2) anyone know of a good 
trucking company that is reasonably priced

 

 

Thanks

 

JP

Alethea

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Stus-List Re: Boat instrument

[Matthew]

My question for you, Andy, is whether you were using B&G instruments when the 
awesome photo (albeit non-C&C) that appeared in Practical Sailor was taken.

 

From: Andrew Burton  
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2020 11:56 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Boat instrument

 

I agree with what Dave says: back up knobs and Raymarine more intuitive. I had 
Raymarine on my C&C 40 and liked it. Though I had to actually read the manual a 
bit (not much) to get the B&G to jump through hoops, I much prefer it. B&G 
seems very focused on sailboats, where the Raymarine seems to be trying to be 
all things to all on the water. Lorance seems more for fishing, and I hate 
Garmin for their bull in a china shop policies.

 

Andy

Andrew Burton

26 Beacon Hill

Newport, RI 

USA02840

 

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 

 

+401 965-5260





October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Boat instrument

[Matthew]

The latest addition.  You sent in a comment about something, and they published 
the comment along with a photo of your boat going uphill.  Looks like a drone 
photo, but I would think too windy.  Very nice.

 

From: Andrew Burton  
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2020 3:27 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Boat instrument

 

What photo in PS?

The answer is, probably.

Andy




Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
<https://linkprotect.cudasvc.com/url?a=http%3a%2f%2fsites.google.com%2fsite%2fandrewburtonyachtservices%2f&c=E,1,xyq5DKtjzDmUoEd4t_22ayjsb5qaEsZ5fkR8Qps5vTfKqxWaUquIt6F9v7rHDtNOO2jMojotYyW_MGM9-4P-GsVO7zvQS8GU9jks2qh9TBg_ikSrRHlMzI9_ksrr&typo=1>
 


phone  +401 965 5260

 

 

On Fri, Oct 30, 2020 at 2:07 PM Matthew mailto:wolf...@erie.net> > wrote:

r appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. 
If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C owners' email

[Matthew]

Chuck:

 

I received the one below, but there has been traffic all day 
(and yesterday, etc.).

 

Matt

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER  
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2020 4:40 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Subject: Stus-List C&C owners' email

 

This is a test of the C&C email list. 

 

I just checked my inbox and the most recent email from the C&C owners' list was 
on Sunday.  Nothing in spam, so I wonder if I was knocked off the list somehow. 
 I'm not being copied, even on an email I sent to the list.  Stu said he saw it 
and several people responded, but it never came to me.   And it's not in spam 
either. 

 

If there is something else I need to check, let me know. 

 

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 

 

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Stus-List Re: Preventer boom placement

[Matthew]

Peter:

 

Although Josh and Andy do it “right,” unless you’re sailing in 
relatively heavy air (25 knots and up) I suspect it is unlikely you will break 
the boom using the existing mainsheet boom bail.  Obviously, the further out 
the better.  We use a boom vang kit as a preventer (I believe it is Schaefer -- 
http://riggingonly.com/TACKLEVANG04.htm ).  The kit is stored down below when 
not in use.  If we anticipate using it, we store it on deck near the mast.  To 
use it, we attach one end to the aft boom bail and the other end (with the cam) 
to the toe rail forward of the boom, then snug it up.  It would undoubtedly be 
better (safer) to secure it to the end of boom.  To gybe, we remove the 
preventer entirely, bring the main all the way in, gybe the main, let it back 
out, and secure the preventer on the other side.  We do not leave the preventer 
on the boom through the gybe, as it could be a lethal weapon.

 

I believe this method is fairly typical around here (Erie).  Perhaps Bill 
Coleman will weigh in.

 

Matt

C&C 42 Custom 

 

From: Peter McMinn  
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2020 2:05 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Preventer boom placement

 

Hey group, I'd like to install a preventer on our 37. What's the wisdom on 
positioning the block on the boom?-- 

Peter McMinn

 _/)

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list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: List Updates

[Matthew]

FWIW, I’m using Microsoft Outlook on a Windows 10 computer.  I experienced 
issues a couple weeks ago, but it seems to be working fine now.

 

From: Stu  
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2020 10:08 AM
To: C&C Email List 
Subject: Stus-List List Updates

 

Good morning everyone

 

It looks like we are slowly getting rid of the problems associated with the new 
email programs.  But there are still glitches that are being worked on. 

 

Most of the problems encountered now appear to be individual and associated 
with the mail program people are using.  Each mail program is different, they 
all use different spam filters and and spam databases and have different 
methods for filtering emails into separate folders.

 

Myself, I have experimented with a bunch including those provided by Microsoft, 
my hosting companies and freebies like gMail and Mail.com.  Right now, all seem 
to be working okay but that could change anytime.

 

My suggestion to everyone experiencing troubles is to sign up for a free 
account like gMail and use it only for this list.  It might sound like a pain 
in the butt, but it should clear up some of your problems.

 

If you are still having problems or concerns about the list, please send me a 
personal email (s...@cncphotoalbum.com  ) and I 
will address each of them.

 

Happy Halloween – Stay safe

Stu

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list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Boat instrument

[Matthew]

FWIW, Garmin purchased Nexus a few years ago and sadly is phasing it out.  
Garmin can be difficult to deal with as I don’t believe Nexus support is a 
priority.  If you find the right person (which requires some effort), Garmin 
does provide some technical support, such as a great replacement program for 
damaged wind transducers.

 

I’m still a fan of my Nexus II instruments for wind/speed/depth/compass and 
related functions (VMG, true wind, etc.), although they do not do 
chartplotting. 

 

From: Bill Coleman  
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2020 7:42 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Boat instrument

 

You just hit on one of my pet peeves .Garmin does seem to have this in a lot of 
their instruments, but Raymarine, B&G, and Simrad are in the dark . Literally. 
What drives me crazy, is that for a few bucks, they could incorporate night 
mode, or light intensity adjustment. One of the worst aspects, is that when you 
turn your display down in the evening, and turn it on the next morning, you 
can't see a darn thing. It is so avoidable.

Bill Coleman

Erie

 

On Fri, Oct 30, 2020, 7:30 PM schiller mailto:schil...@bloomingdalecom.net> > wrote:

I have always been partial to Garmin chartplotters and Raymarine 
wind/speed/depth.  We have them all talking through the Seatalk ng network.

We had an interesting experience with Glenn Gambel's C&C 36 going over to 
Milwaukee for the Queens cup in 2018 with his new Raymarine chartplotter.  As 
it got dark no one noticed how high the intensity of the display was until we 
came up on an ore freighter.  Glenn was at the helm and as he tried to go heads 
out to locate the freighter he was night blinded by the display and became 
disoriented enough that we made two complete circles in front of this 
freighter.  Glenn finally asked for someone else to take the helm and I took 
over and just straightened out the wheel until we regained some awareness of 
where we were.  It seemed the display went from manageable to blinding almost 
instantaneously.  My Garmin's have always gone into night mode at sundown and 
now I appreciate that.  We did finally get the intensity down to non-blinding.  
The freighter shined us with his spot just to see if we were having issues.  He 
had to be wondering what the hell we were doing.

Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC 

On 10/30/2020 10:42 AM, David Knecht wrote:

I have had B&G and Raymarine chart plotters and they both have advantages and 
disadvantages, so no clear winner for me.  I found the Raymarine a bit more 
intuitive, but you get used to the idiosynchracies of either types as you use 
them.  The one thing I have found really important is if you get a touchscreen 
model, make sure it also has backup buttons and knobs for control.  I have 
periodically had my touchscreen refuse to respond to touch input, but I can use 
the buttons/knobs to make it work when that happens.  Some models only work 
through the touchscreen.   Dave 

 

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New sails

[Matthew]

Charlie:

 

Before you get too enamored with Sri Lanka factory QA/QC 
procedures, my North chute is about two years old and was made in Sri Lanka.  
We first put it up during a race with the local North rep on board.  The sail 
number was three digits.  Three out of five ain’t bad.  North must have a thing 
about sail numbers, because my NorDac main came with blue numbers instead of 
black numbers as ordered.  Also, I suggest staying away from NorDac.  Although 
interesting material, it is super thick (bulletproof) and difficult to handle.  
About four years ago North was promoting NorDac for club racing, but several 
people in Erie (including me) had issues with the sails.

 

Speaking of Quantum, the Doyle loft in Detroit (formerly North, 
and Doyle before that) recently announced it is partnering with Quantum.  I 
don’t know if this is a local partnership or a Doyle partnership.

 

FWIW, I am very happy with my Doyle 153% racing genoa.  I am 
not as happy with sails I got from North.

 

Matt

 

From: Dennis C.  
Sent: Monday, November 02, 2020 9:14 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: New sails

 

Charlie,

 

2 thoughts.

 

First, my goto racing 155's have been a North Mylar/Kevlar triradial and a 
local loft's (now an Ullman affiliate) Pentex triradial.  My gut feel has 
always been the old Pentex was faster.  Pentex is a high tech Dacron.  The 
North was made in their factory in Sri Lanka.  I personally like triradial 
racing sails.

 

Second, my 20 year old cross cut Dacron cruising 155 was shredded in Hurricane 
Sally.  I got quotes for a new "plain Jane" crosscut 155 from North and Ullman 
in Louisiana and a local loft in Pensacola.  The local loft was about 70% of 
the cost.  I'm going with the Pensacola loft.  The sailmaker meticulously 
measured for the sail.  The sail will be made in the Quantum factory in Sri 
Lanka.  Delivery in 4-6 weeks.

 

Now, my thoughts on offshore made sails.  As long as the boat is measured by a 
local sailmaker and the local sailmaker stands behind the sail, I think 
offshore manufacture is a good way to go.  

The local sailmaker designs the sail for your boat, local conditions and your 
inputs.  He then sends the digital design to the offshore factoryIt's my 
feeling that the big sail factories in Sri Lanka, etc. have proceduralized 
manufacturing and quality control.  That may not exist in a local loft.  

 

My North 155 (Sri Lanka) was very well made.  The only quality issue I've had 
with a sail was with one sewn in a local loft. The sailmaker forgot to sew the 
web strap reinforcements on the tack.  The tack let go during a race costing me 
a spot on the podium.  The quality controlprocedures in an offshore factory 
probably would have caught that omission.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

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Stus-List Liquid rubber

[Matthew]

On a possibly related topic, I have a few lines on my boat that have inner 
cores that do not melt.  Unlike with my Sta-Set lines, I can’t use a hot knife 
to cut and melt the inner core and outer jacket together.  There used to be a 
product called Whip-end Dip (or something) for sealing the ends of lines.  The 
newer version of this product is water based and ineffective at holding the 
inner core and outer jacket together.  Short of properly whipping the lines 
(not in my current skill set), has anyone found a dipping product that works 
for this purpose?  

 

On 11/02/2020 9:17 AM j...@dellabarba.com   wrote: 

 

 

Some time ago I posted about putting some liquid rubber intended as an 
electrical sealer on my forward hatch where it had a persistent leak.

We have had enough rain from two different hurricanes to fill my yard up and 
*not one drop* of water has made it past the hatch onto the V-berth 😊

 

I rate this is a success! 

Note if your hatches are not cosmetically challenged and you want to try this, 
tape off the area so you only get it where you want it. It is really thick goop 
and you won’t be able to paint a thin line freehand. In my case this is a 
stop-gap until I send the hatch in for repair or get a new one and the black 
rubber doesn’t really stand out anyway.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C&C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

 

 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Slow delivery

[Matthew]

FYI, I use a local ISP, VelocityNet based in Erie, and am presently having
no issues.

 

From: Marek Dziedzic  
Sent: Monday, November 02, 2020 10:10 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Slow delivery

 

If I understand it correctly, these delays are happening only to emails that
are handled directly by the ISPs; there is very little they can do about any
emails that are handled by a y of the global email providers (gmail
(Google), outlook/hotmail (MS), Yahoo, etc.). 

 

It might make sense to switch to one of these email providers. 

 

Just my 2 cents 

 

Marek 

 

 

 Original message 

From: Stu mailto:s...@snghost.com> > 

Date: 2020-11-02 20:27 (GMT-05:00) 

To: C&C Email List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Subject: Stus-List Slow delivery 

 

The techies at our hosting company have done quite a bit of testing
regarding the slow delivery of emails.  It is surprising the results they
found 

-- all of the ISP's investigated are deferring messages at their whim and
will.  You might get the first email sent at 1:00pm within a couple of
minutes.  But if a second message comes in at 1:01pm, the ISP could defer
it.  The delay time varies and there does not seem to be a pattern.

 

Bottom line is - if you think messages are not being delivered in a timely
manner, contact your ISP.  A delay of 3-5 minutes is normal. Messages that
are being deferred could also be getting lost in cyberspace.

 

Don't expect to get a clear explanation from your ISP.  Once they have your
money, you only get what they give.

 

Stay safe

Stu

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New sails

[Matthew]

I have no experience with Precision.  As I alluded to earlier, however, North 
sails are good, but in my view not worth the high cost.  You pay a premium for 
the name.

 

From: Joel Delamirande  
Sent: Monday, November 02, 2020 6:32 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: New sails

 

Any thoughts with the quality with precision sails and north sails

 

 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Matthew]

A friend of mine purchased replacement custom windows and frames for his C&C 36 
from Bomar.  On my 1978 C&C 34 (which had the older style oval frames), I 
replaced the four cabin windows with Lewmar opening ports.  The most difficult 
aspect of the installation was sufficiently “flattening” the curved deck 
surface.  Non-opening ports are more forgiving on slightly curved surfaces.

 

From: Raymond Macklin  
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2020 11:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Window Replacement on 1985 C&C

 

Hello:

 

Instead of replacing the Plexi Glass tradition windows, I am looking to replace 
my windows aluminum frames.   Has anyone do this and if so what windows were 
they and if you could provide details on how you did it.

 

Thanks,

Ray

LakeHouse, Milwaukee WI

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list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Matthew]

What Ron said.  Sounds like he did the windows on his 38 the same way I did 
them on my 34.  The increased ventilation alone (especially when it’s hot down 
below) is worth the cost of the project.

 

From: Ron Casciato  
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2020 9:35 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Window Replacement on 1985 C&C

 

Ray,  I replaced the ports on my 77 38MKII about 15 years ago.  I used the 
Lewmar opening ports that come with sturdy frames and an inside cover that 
blends well with the interior.  You also get a set of screens that fit, 
although we’ve never used them.  On the 38, I was surprised at how close the 
Lewmar ports were to the original openings in the cabin. I think we only 
removed less than a ¼” all around.  If you do it this way, remember to fill the 
gap between the outer and inner fiberglass with an epoxy paste and smooth it 
off .  I don’t remember what the original install cost for parts, but this past 
year, I replaced them again since the windows do get glazed over time and while 
you can replace the plexiglass alone, I decided to remove the frames and redo 
the whole project again.  Today’s cost for 5 Lewmar opening windows is in the 
$1400 range.  

 

The decision to replace the frames and all was also due to the fact that 
sealant ages and while I didn’t have any leaks, removing the Plexiglas was 
going to deform the frames so I decided on the full replacement.

 

You’ll never be sorry after doing this project………having fresh air ventilating 
the interior whenever you want it is just great.  

 

I am never successful in uploading pictures to this list, but if you want to 
see how it looks finished, let me know and I’ll send a couple by email.

 

Best,

Ron C.

Impromptu38

C&C MKIIC #125….1977

 

 

 

From: Matthew mailto:wolf...@erie.net> > 
Sent: Monday, November 9, 2020 8:33 AM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Window Replacement on 1985 C&C

 

A friend of mine purchased replacement custom windows and frames for his C&C 36 
from Bomar.  On my 1978 C&C 34 (which had the older style oval frames), I 
replaced the four cabin windows with Lewmar opening ports.  The most difficult 
aspect of the installation was sufficiently “flattening” the curved deck 
surface.  Non-opening ports are more forgiving on slightly curved surfaces.

 

From: Raymond Macklin mailto:ray.mack...@gmail.com> > 
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2020 11:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Window Replacement on 1985 C&C

 

Hello:

 

Instead of replacing the Plexi Glass tradition windows, I am looking to replace 
my windows aluminum frames.   Has anyone do this and if so what windows were 
they and if you could provide details on how you did it.

 

Thanks,

Ray

LakeHouse, Milwaukee WI

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Port side grab rail replacement C&C 29 MK.1

[Matthew]

I replaced the hand rails on my 42 Custom, and my previous 34, with stainless 
steel rails from White Water Marine.  Very strong and no maintenance.

 

From: Lee Goss via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2020 12:41 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Lee Goss 
Subject: Stus-List Port side grab rail replacement C&C 29 MK.1

 

Hello All,

 

I've broken the external port side grab rail on my C&C 29 MK1.

 

Would anyone be able to recommend a good replacement? or know of anyone who is 
parting out a C&C29?

 

 

Many thanks in advance,

Lee Goss

 

C&C 29 MK.1

Chicago, Lake Michigan 

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list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Port side grab rail replacement C&C 29 MK.1

[Matthew]

I have zero regrets going to stainless.  For the templates, I laid a piece of 
brown mailing paper (like construction paper, but in a long roll) over the 
holes and taped it in place.  I then punched a hole through the paper at each 
of the old hand rail bolt holes.  As a result, Whitewater was not only able to 
get the spacing, but also the bend.  Stainless hand rails need to be pre-bent 
at the shop or they won’t fit correctly (and you cannot bend them while 
installing).  Merely sending in the old wooden ones will not suffice, as wooden 
hand rails “un-bend” when removed.  My replacements were not an exact fit, but 
were darn close.  A little filling and drilling, and voila! 

 

From: Brian Davis  
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2020 5:36 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Port side grab rail replacement C&C 29 MK.1

 

Good point about the stainless steel option. I am in the process of replacing 
the 2 mid ship long grab rails of which 1 broke. I have 6 in total on my 38 
Landfall, and the others are good shape. But the teak does require maintenance. 
I bought 2 teak replacements.on Defender.com 

  but since the hole pattern was not an exact match, I filled with epoxy and 
repainted, and now about to drill new holes and install. I struggled with 
replacing all with stainless, but since I don't have a lot of teak aside from 
the rails and 4 vent boxes, I decided to stay original. 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Sails

[Matthew]

If you’re considering North, you may also want to consider Doyle.  High quality 
sails, typically 15-20% less than North, and there is a local loft for 
servicing in Cleveland (and another in Detroit).

 

From: Lewis Cooke  
Sent: Monday, November 16, 2020 8:00 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Sails

 

Good Morning,

 I was hoping to get the group's thoughts on new sails for For Play. I have 
received quotes from Precision, UK, North Sails and Sobstad. 

Precision is the cheapest followed by Sobstad, I'm leaning towards Sobstad 
because they make the sails here not in a foreign country and they are local to 
me. 

When getting quotes I tried to keep the pricing apples to apples as best I 
could, Dacron cruiser club racing sail, single reef, draft stripe, Cunningham, 
full top batten, numbers, loose foot.

Any input would be appreciated.

 

Lewis Cooke

S/V For Play

C&C30-1

Hull#45

Lorain, OH

 

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list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Sails

[Matthew]

If you’re looking at NorDac, make sure you know what you’re getting.  The 
material is bulletproof: thick, stiff and bulky.  The main cover made for my 
previous dacron main does not fit over my NorDac main.  

 

From: Wade Glew  
Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 2020 9:25 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Sails

 

Two years ago i bought a new Nordac 3Di 135 furling genoa from North. It was 
not cheap  but it is fantastic. . Ive never sailed with a sail that needs less 
tweaking which is awesome for single handing. Groove is wide and predictable.  
Sent the measurements and perfect fit first time.  My old sail was pretty 
bagged out and I couldn't believe the difference in handling and weather helm 
this new sail has made.  Switching out my old Michegan Sailor fixed prop for a 
FlexoFold and the new headsail is like having a new boat!  If this 3Di sail 
lasts as long as my previous sail, it will be well worth the cost.

 

Having a local sail loft can't be a bad thing to factor into your decision

 

Wade

Oh Boy 33-2

Lake of the Woods

 

On Mon, Nov 16, 2020, 6:56 AM Lewis Cooke, mailto:lewiscooke...@gmail.com> > wrote:

Good Morning,

 I was hoping to get the group's thoughts on new sails for For Play. I have 
received quotes from Precision, UK, North Sails and Sobstad. 

Precision is the cheapest followed by Sobstad, I'm leaning towards Sobstad 
because they make the sails here not in a foreign country and they are local to 
me. 

When getting quotes I tried to keep the pricing apples to apples as best I 
could, Dacron cruiser club racing sail, single reef, draft stripe, Cunningham, 
full top batten, numbers, loose foot.

Any input would be appreciated.

 

Lewis Cooke

S/V For Play

C&C30-1

Hull#45

Lorain, OH

 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rub rail repair test

[Matthew]

All this rub rail talk makes me jealous.  My 42 Custom has no rub rail.  It 
does have several scrapes and gouges, however.

 

From: Ken Heaton  
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2020 8:18 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Rub rail repair test

 

Dennis is correct of course, for older C&C's, but the newer C&C's have a 
different arrangement for the rub rail which is replaceable without unbolting 
the deck  There is a factory drawing of it at this link: 
https://photos.app.goo.gl/u9i7woy2Mit5AXV3A 

 

 

Ken H.

 

 

On Wed, 18 Nov 2020 at 09:12, Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com> > wrote:

I'm not a novice when it comes to rub rails.  I've removed/replaced/repaired 
rub rails on several power boats.  Bill is right.  The rub rail on older C&C's 
is sandwiched between the deck and hull.  Replacement requires lifting the deck 
off the hull.  Not a job lightly undertaken.

 

Even splicing in a short section would be more job than I want to tackle right 
now if a quick cosmetic fix works.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Sails

[Matthew]

FWIW, the fastest chute on my boat is a 30+ year old patched up sail, which we 
lovingly call “Big Blue.”  At least according to the bag, it’s a Sobstad.  
Depending on how long the loft has been in Cleveland, it was likely made there. 
 (My boat is the former Mal de Mer out of Mentor, OH.)

 

Matt Wolford

C&C 42 Custom

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, November 20, 2020 8:12 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Sails

 

What he said. Pick a loft that will come to your boat and will do 
alterations/repairs. Ask around to see who gives good service.

Locally I have had good luck with Quantum and Bacons.

Given only what I know from your email, I would probably pick Sobstad as well.

 

Joe

Coquina

 

From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> > 



 

 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

   Thanks - Stu

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list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: rudder post fitting

[Matthew]

Pete:

Removal is either a multiple person job (supporting from below, yes) or 
you will need to come up with a safe method.  My rudder post is threaded on top 
to accept an eyebolt, and an engineer friend of mine made a winch that sits on 
the deck just over the rudder for raising and lowering.  We call it the 
rudderizer.  Adequately supported jacks can be used underneath for minor 
adjustments as well.

Listers:

Speaking of rudders and play, my rudder is supported on deck with two 
bronze wheels that roll on a bronze deck ring.  In the straight rudder 
position, the wheels are oriented fore and aft.  In 45 years or so of use, the 
forward wheel and the front portion of the ring have both worn, and there is 
probably an 1/8" or so of play in the rudder.  The forward wheel has worn so 
much that it looks like a different size wheel by design, but Rob Ball (who 
designed the system) says no.  We suspect the lower bushing is also worn (which 
would correspond to the worn forward bronze roller), but I cannot see a 
"bushing" per se.  Inside the boat going from bottom to top, there is a lot of 
built-up fiberglass at the lower entry into the hull, then a space for the 
quadrant to attach, then a lot of built-up glass (with a grease fitting) just 
below the deck where the rudder post exits.  The lower and upper glass 
structures are the "bushings," but there is no access to replace Delrin rings 
or anything like that -- at least not that I can see.  Although we would like 
to remove the little bit of play that we believe is allowed by a worn lower 
bushing, we're scratching our heads about how we might go about it.

Thoughts?

Matt
C&C 42 Custom

-Original Message-
From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2020 4:46 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Dave Godwin 
Subject: Stus-List Re: rudder post fitting

Pete,

My rudder is lying on the ground underneath our boat. I’ll be over there 
tomorrow working on her and will take some photos for you. Although it’s been 
so long since I dropped the rudder, I’m pretty sure that that nut is just for 
the emergency steering gear. I have the same play in our boat. I’m having the 
yard fix that this spring. Bushing/bearing work.

Also, for any of the listers who may be interested, I bought another boat. 
Doesn’t have a mast...

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin



> On Nov 22, 2020, at 1:49 PM, pete.shelqu...@comcast.net wrote:
> 
> I'm looking for drawings or description of the retaining nut at the top of 
> the rudder post.  Access is from the deck.  Sorry I don't have a photo.   
> There's a lot of play at that point and I'd like to take it apart to 
> review/fix.  
> 
> While on the hard, I presume I need to support the rudder from underneath 
> before removal?  
> 
> Thanks,
> Pete
> 1984 37
> 
> 
> 
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: rudder post fitting

[Matthew]

David:

I'm guessing the rudder post is 3 inches or so in diameter.  How on 
earth did you drill out the bushings?

-Original Message-
From: David Risch  
Sent: Monday, November 23, 2020 10:01 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: rudder post fitting

Matt...my 1981 40 has a similar configuration but bolt and wheels are oriented 
athwartship.   I also put in new bushings in my tube by drilling out just 
enough for a new insertion.  Was not easy but even my crude machinations seemed 
to work.

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list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rendezvous reschedule

[Matthew]

I can’t do the 8th, but don’t schedule around me if that date is most 
convenient for others.

 

From: Stu  
Sent: Monday, November 30, 2020 9:34 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Rendezvous reschedule

 

Sorry about the rendezvous.  I lost my home internet due to a cable fault and 
still have to relay on my cell phone bandwidth.

 

Once I am back online, I will schedule a late Thanksgiving, pre-Christmas 
rendezvous. 

 

Is everybody okay with Tuesday, Dec 8 or Wednesday, Dec 9?

 

Stay safe – Stu

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 

Sent: Monday, November 30, 2020 8:12 AM

To: Stus-List 

Cc: Della Barba, Joe 

Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Don't forget the rendezvous

 

Are we trying again?

Joe

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Vessel Documentation

[Matthew]

It must be that time of year again.  I just received my “official” Vessel 
Documentation Portal letter to renew my Federal documentation.  For those new 
to the list, this is a scam.  Although this private service will renew your 
documentation, the cost is much higher than the normal annual fee.  You can 
renew directly with Homeland Security through the Falling Waters office.

 

Beware.

 

Matt Wolford

C&C 42 Custom

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C&C 43 update

[Matthew]

Martin:

 

My 1976 42 Custom is a Bruckman boat, probably similar to
yours on deck and down below (probably not the keel, which they were
straightening out during the 70s).  I'm also involved in many projects and
upgrades.  Keep going.

 

Matt Wolford

Erie, PA

 

From: Martin DeYoung  
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2020 9:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Calypso 1971 C&C 43 update

 

Calypso's 5+ year restoration continues, and may be picking up pace.  I got
distracted from the rebuild by selling a business, retiring, moving to Port
Ludlow (near Port Townsend WA) and of course, the Covid-19 pandemic. A
recap:

 

Calypso, a C&C design "Limited Edition" built by Bruckmann's in late 1970,
launched as Arieto in January 1971, hull #1 of +-15 hulls sold. After a
successful racing career out of Boston it was sold to the Great Lakes as
first Phantom then Esta Es and raced in many Chi-Mac races.  We purchased
her in late 1998 and trucked her out west to Seattle.

 

>From 1999 to 2015 we raced and cruised Calypso around the PNW including a
2015 summer trip around Vancouver Island.  At the end of that summer it was
clear the 44 years of hard miles and exposure had taken its toll.  There was
rotted balsa core in +-20 sq ft of deck, multiple bulkheads with rotted
plywood near the hull, 300 old fastener holes that needed epoxy filling,
tired deck, topsides, and interior paint, and many more old boat issues.

 

Today, most of the major repairs are complete, some needed structural
upgrades added (used the original C&C drawings to guide us), and she is
almost ready for the paint shed planned for this spring or early summer.  We
will move Calypso from its Shilshole Bay Marina slip to the Port Ludlow
marina as soon as a slip is available.  I can see the marina from my house
and drive there in 5 minutes, 6 if there's traffic so the pace of project
completion will pick up considerably.

 

Aprox. 5 years ago I switched to following the cnc-list via the digest. The
recent list software upgrade pushed me back to the "full meal deal" of
receiving all the emails.  As I now have a good working knowledge of them,
I will chime in if I see any questions from owners of Bruckmann built C&Cs
from the early 70's. 

 

Martin DeYoung

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle/Port Ludlow

 

Sent from Mail   for Windows
10

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: warped companionway sliding hatch

[Matthew]

Don’t have clue about the cause.  Perhaps substituting a different material 
(like Lexan) will help solve the problem going forward.

 

From: David Knecht  
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2020 2:07 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Subject: Stus-List warped companionway sliding hatch

 

The smoked plexiglass sliding hatch on my boat seems to be warped and I am not 
sure why.  For several years, I have had a thin flexible 50W solar panel 
velcro’d to the top of it.  The spacing between the panel and the bridge that 
supports the traveller was initially tight, so I ground the fiberglass with a 
Dremel so the panel would fit underneath as it slid.  But I noticed that 
however much I ground it, the spacing would decrease over time, so that last 
summer, I had to lean on the panel to get it to fit underneath.  Once out of 
the sun, it would relax some, but the situation got worse as the summer wore 
on.  I pulled the whole sliding panel and brought it home and the plexiglass is 
clearly warped.  I can’t see how the solar panel on top would cause that to 
happen because most of the time, most of the plexiglass is out of the sun, 
covered by the solar panel.  I guess I am going to have to replace the entire 
panel as it is now seriously warped in some areas.  If anyone has any thoughts 
on what caused this and what to do about it, I would appreciate the advice.  
Thanks- Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C&C 43 update

[Matthew]

Martin:

 

I can attest that the practices were not updated by 1973.
My boat has all kinds of nooks and crannies where water accumulates.  One of
my pet peeves is that often the limber holes were not placed at the bottom
of the area being drained, but instead a half inch or so above (such as just
forward of the mast).  As a result, the half inch or so of water doesn’t
drain.  I prior owner used Bondo to address this.  However, I discovered
that water works its way in under the Bondo.  I plan to remove all the Bondo
and level the various areas with West System.  Another job on my long list.

 

Matt

C&C 42 Custom (1976 Bruckmann built) 

 

From: Martin DeYoung  
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2020 4:40 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C&C 43 update

 

Joel,

 

I expect we experienced similar paths in restoring/repairing C&C designs
built by Bruckmann.  The “stick built” interiors give both easy access for
water migration and for the repair work water migration makes necessary.  I
have a declared value marine insurance policy to cover liability and some
hull losses but fully expect a tussle if I were to file a total loss claim.

 

One of the key failure modes we experienced was caused by water gaining
access to the channels created when the Bruckmann build team bonded
bulkheads to the hull.  We found water** that pooled in the bilge forward of
the mast migrated across the bottom of several bulkheads and, over 40 years,
rotted the ¾” thick plywood up to 18” from the hull contact.

 

Did you find any evidence of water migration through the bulkhead channels
of the embedded 12v wires run through the deck balsa core?  Maybe Bruckmanns
build practices were updated by 1973.

 

Martin DeYoung

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle/Port Ludlow

 

**Calypso’s excess water forward of the bilge was cause by hull laminate
fractures likely caused by years of hard competition and excess use of
hydraulic backstay/babystay adjustors. When we first launched Calypso in
Seattle (after trucking out from Chicago) water seeped into the bilge space
forward of the mast step.  We re-hauled the hull (the mast was out for
painting and new rigging) and started diagnosing the failure by chiseling
out the orange polyester “bog” filler and grinding off bottom paint. The
micro fractures became appearant most easily inside.  We re-laminated the
hull in that area with epoxy, built up the well forward of the mast step,
and re-faired the hull.

Using as built drawings from C&C (from the museum I bought all available for
43s and some for the first few 60s) during Calypso’s current restoration we
discovered 43 and 60 hulls after #1 and #2 were retrofitted or built with
extra reinforcement in this area.  For Calypso we manufactured “I” beams
from G10 epoxy board and wood then glassed them to the hull from next to the
mast step forward past the babystay’s interior anchor point.

 

 

Sent from Mail   for Windows
10

 

From: Joel Delamirande  
Sent: Friday, December 4, 2020 8:14 AM
To: Stus-List  
Subject: Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C&C 43 update

 

Wow that amazing 

It basically what I did to C&C 30 1973

People are amazed at the transformation 

The hard part is to get the insurance to see it value comparing to market
value if you can find some

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks -
Stu

-- 

Joel Delamirande



 
 www.jdroofing.ca

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C&C 43 update

[Matthew]

Martin:

 

I recently had a new blooper made.  I’ll send the contact
info for the local sailmaker if you’re interested.

 

Matt

 

From: Martin DeYoung  
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2020 5:08 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C&C 43 update

 

Alan,

 

I need to amend my previous statement regarding acquiring sails and racing.
I, out of an abundance of nostalgia, feel the need to equip Calypso with a
blooper and fly it during some downwind club race.  None of Calypso’s
bloopers from the 70’s made it to Seattle so I will start keeping my eye out
(maybe some dumpster diving) for a suitable ¾ oz blooper.

 

I expect it will be exciting to acquaint Calypso’s co-owner and crew with
the nuances of setting, trimming, and driving under a spin/blooper combo.  I
have many hours/miles driving with bloopers from my Transpacs in the 70’s
and early 80’s but it has been +-30 years since I last used one.  I believe
any witnesses to our first attempts will be thoroughly entertained.

 

If I was able to pull this off, the 3 second a mile PHRF rating hit would be
worth the fun of flashing the fleet with a blooper.  Calypso rarely sails to
its PHRF rating of 93, especially with its old sails, cruising bottom paint,
and casual crew.  The last time we corrected out to the podium was in a race
where half the course was upwind/up current in 25 to 30 TWS.  Calypso
reveled in the conditions while all those pesky “J” boats suffered from lack
of railmeat and slid off to leeward.

 

So we may yet enter a race with a downwind leg long enough for a duffer crew
to hoist and fly a blooper.

 

Martin DeYoung

Calypso

C&C 43

Seattle/Port Ludlow

 

Sent from Mail   for Windows
10

 

From: ALAN BERGEN  
Sent: Thursday, December 3, 2020 7:26 PM
To: Stus-List  
Subject: Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C&C 43 update

 

Hi Martin:

Glad to hear Calypso is coming alive again. Will you continue to race, or
have you retired from racing also? Are you still partnered with what's his
name? I've been racing in a summer series every Sunday, and that will
continue till March. I'll give you a call, the next time I'm cruising in
your area.




Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

 

 

On Thu, Dec 3, 2020 at 6:06 PM Martin DeYoung mailto:martin.deyo...@outlook.com> > wrote:

Calypso’s 5+ year restoration continues, and may be picking up pace.  I got
distracted from the rebuild by selling a business, retiring, moving to Port
Ludlow (near Port Townsend WA) and of course, the Covid-19 pandemic. A
recap:

 

Calypso, a C&C design “Limited Edition” built by Bruckmann’s in late 1970,
launched as Arieto in January 1971, hull #1 of +-15 hulls sold. After a
successful racing career out of Boston it was sold to the Great Lakes as
first Phantom then Esta Es and raced in many Chi-Mac races.  We purchased
her in late 1998 and trucked her out west to Seattle.

 

>From 1999 to 2015 we raced and cruised Calypso around the PNW including a
2015 summer trip around Vancouver Island.  At the end of that summer it was
clear the 44 years of hard miles and exposure had taken its toll.  There was
rotted balsa core in +-20 sq ft of deck, multiple bulkheads with rotted
plywood near the hull, 300 old fastener holes that needed epoxy filling,
tired deck, topsides, and interior paint, and many more old boat issues.

 

Today, most of the major repairs are complete, some needed structural
upgrades added (used the original C&C drawings to guide us), and she is
almost ready for the paint shed planned for this spring or early summer.  We
will move Calypso from its Shilshole Bay Marina slip to the Port Ludlow
marina as soon as a slip is available.  I can see the marina from my house
and drive there in 5 minutes, 6 if there’s traffic so the pace of project
completion will pick up considerably.

 

Aprox. 5 years ago I switched to following the cnc-list via the digest. The
recent list software upgrade pushed me back to the “full meal deal” of
receiving all the emails.  As I now have a good working knowledge of them,
I will chime in if I see any questions from owners of Bruckmann built C&Cs
from the early 70’s. 

 

Martin DeYoung

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle/Port Ludlow

 

Sent from Mail
  for Windows 10

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --
https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__

Stus-List Re: warped companionway sliding hatch

[Matthew]

I have a dark grey sliding hatch from ePlastics.  They used to offer a sample 
kit (and may still offer it) of four or five pieces for a nominal fee to help 
you pick the color.  FWIW, my first hatch cover broke when someone was standing 
on it to furl the main.  The local window shop that cut the replacement (I had 
enough leftover plexi for a second one) said that lexan is much stronger if it 
happens again.  

 

From: Brian Davis  
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2020 9:05 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: warped companionway sliding hatch

 

I replaced my companion way sliding hatch earlier this year. I used acrylic and 
its been great so far. Below is a link to where I got it. They were very good 
to work with. I simply made a template on large brown paper and they cut it for 
me. They even sent me the leftover scraps and I used them to redo my 2 small 
hatches in the head and galley. I went with dark smoked bronze.

 

Custom Cut Bronze & Gray Plexiglass Acrylic Sheets

https://www.eplastics.com/plexiglass/acrylic-sheets/bronze-gray 

 

 

 

 

On Sun, Dec 6, 2020, 12:02 AM Chris Riedinger mailto:chris.riedin...@gmail.com> > wrote:

Sadly the panels are only ~20-25% efficient, the rest is lost in heat...

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C&C 43 update

[Matthew]

That has been my experience, too.  Every now and again though….

 

From: WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List  
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2020 9:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: WILLIAM WALKER 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C&C 43 update

 

I have a blooper.  Prior owner said  he always gained half a knot when he put 
it up and half a knot when he dropped it..

Bill Walker 

Evening Star

1981 CnC 36


-Original Message-
From: schiller mailto:schil...@bloomingdalecom.net> >
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Sat, Dec 5, 2020 06:57 PM
Subject: Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C&C 43 update



Martin,

I may still have a Blooper from our Redwing 35 out in the barn.  I'm not sure 
that it is appropriate but it could be yours for shipping.  There is also a 
reacher, a staysail and a banana staysail out there.  Our Redwing 35 (Red 
Pepper) was purchased to compete in the Chi-Mac.

Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
(Previous: 1970 Redwing 35, #007)
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC 

On 12/5/2020 5:07 PM, Martin DeYoung wrote:

Alan,

 

I need to amend my previous statement regarding acquiring sails and racing.  I, 
out of an abundance of nostalgia, feel the need to equip Calypso with a blooper 
and fly it during some downwind club race.  None of Calypso’s bloopers from the 
70’s made it to Seattle so I will start keeping my eye out (maybe some dumpster 
diving) for a suitable ¾ oz blooper.

 

I expect it will be exciting to acquaint Calypso’s co-owner and crew with the 
nuances of setting, trimming, and driving under a spin/blooper combo.  I have 
many hours/miles driving with bloopers from my Transpacs in the 70’s and early 
80’s but it has been +-30 years since I last used one.  I believe any witnesses 
to our first attempts will be thoroughly entertained.

 

If I was able to pull this off, the 3 second a mile PHRF rating hit would be 
worth the fun of flashing the fleet with a blooper.  Calypso rarely sails to 
its PHRF rating of 93, especially with its old sails, cruising bottom paint, 
and casual crew.  The last time we corrected out to the podium was in a race 
where half the course was upwind/up current in 25 to 30 TWS.  Calypso reveled 
in the conditions while all those pesky “J” boats suffered from lack of 
railmeat and slid off to leeward.

 

So we may yet enter a race with a downwind leg long enough for a duffer crew to 
hoist and fly a blooper.

 

Martin DeYoung

Calypso

C&C 43

Seattle/Port Ludlow

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: ALAN BERGEN
Sent: Thursday, December 3, 2020 7:26 PM
To: Stus-List
Subject: Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C&C 43 update

 

Hi Martin:

Glad to hear Calypso is coming alive again. Will you continue to race, or have 
you retired from racing also? Are you still partnered with what's his name? 
I've been racing in a summer series every Sunday, and that will continue till 
March. I'll give you a call, the next time I'm cruising in your area.




Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

 

 

On Thu, Dec 3, 2020 at 6:06 PM Martin DeYoung mailto:martin.deyo...@outlook.com> > wrote:

Calypso’s 5+ year restoration continues, and may be picking up pace.  I got 
distracted from the rebuild by selling a business, retiring, moving to Port 
Ludlow (near Port Townsend WA) and of course, the Covid-19 pandemic. A recap:

 

Calypso, a C&C design “Limited Edition” built by Bruckmann’s in late 1970, 
launched as Arieto in January 1971, hull #1 of +-15 hulls sold. After a 
successful racing career out of Boston it was sold to the Great Lakes as first 
Phantom then Esta Es and raced in many Chi-Mac races.  We purchased her in late 
1998 and trucked her out west to Seattle.

 

>From 1999 to 2015 we raced and cruised Calypso around the PNW including a 2015 
>summer trip around Vancouver Island.  At the end of that summer it was clear 
>the 44 years of hard miles and exposure had taken its toll.  There was rotted 
>balsa core in +-20 sq ft of deck, multiple bulkheads with rotted plywood near 
>the hull, 300 old fastener holes that needed epoxy filling, tired deck, 
>topsides, and interior paint, and many more old boat issues.

 

Today, most of the major repairs are complete, some needed structural upgrades 
added (used the original C&C drawings to guide us), and she is almost ready for 
the paint shed planned for this spring or early summer.  We will move Calypso 
from its Shilshole Bay Marina slip to the Port Ludlow marina as soon as a slip 
is available.  I can see the marina from my house and drive there in 5 minutes, 
6 if there’s traffic so the pace of project completion will pick up 
considerably.

 

Aprox. 5 years ago I switched to following the cnc-list via the digest. The 
recent list software upgrade pushed me back to the “full meal deal” of 
receiving all the emails.  As I now have a good working knowledge of them,  I 
will chime in if I see any questions from owners of Bruckmann built C&Cs from 
the early 70’s. 

 

Martin

Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C&C 43 update

[Matthew]

Gotta keep Dave in the game.  No one ever made a better chute than the one you 
had on Coletrek.

 

From: Bill Coleman  
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2020 10:37 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C&C 43 update

 

You are one wild and crazy guy, Matt!

Bill Coleman

 

On Sat, Dec 5, 2020, 5:36 PM Matthew mailto:wolf...@erie.net> > wrote:

Martin:

 

I recently had a new blooper made.  I’ll send the contact info 
for the local sailmaker if you’re interested.

 

Matt

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Solar Vents

[Matthew]

One of my vents is having a bushing problem or something (making a screeching 
sound).  I reached out to Marinco a couple months ago and was advised that the 
rebuild kit is no longer made.

 

Matt

 

From: 2bbauman <2bbau...@gmail.com> 
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2020 8:15 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Solar Vents

 

I did a Google search for nicro solar vent rebuild kit and for parts.  I found 
a few commercial firms selling parts, including motors.  Hopefully this helps..

Bernie

 

 

 Original message 

From: dwight veinot mailto:dwight...@gmail.com> > 

Date: 12/6/20 7:48 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Subject: Stus-List Re: Solar Vents 

 

The Nicro solar vents work quite well when new. However the motor in mine died 
after about 4 years. The unit was imo expensive at nearly $300 and loss of a $5 
or less small dc motor turned it into a much cheaper mushroom vent. So far I 
have not been able to source a replacement motor. 

 

On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 8:06 PM David Risch mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com> > wrote:

Did a bit of research.  Seems they all stink.What say you?

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you. 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C&C 43 update

[Matthew]

Martin:

 

I believe the 42 Custom is a different (albeit similar)
design.  My understanding is that six were made.  One of the owners has been
keeping track of the boats and reached out to me a few years ago.  As I
recall one or two are in bad shape, but the rest are going strong.  The boat
is more or less a sistership to the first Baltic 42.  Rob Mazza on this list
recently informed me that the design was a development of a 1975 Canada Cup
challenger, Marauder (which he sailed on).

 

I raced against my boat as a kid.  It ruled Lake Erie for
about a year, then was promptly out-designed.  Had someone like me not
purchased it, it probably would be getting ready for the landfill.  The
hull’s balsa core was wet or rotted throughout the boat.  We’ve either
replaced all the bad core where access allowed; or drilled a gazillion holes
on the inside skin, dried out the core with heat lamps, and filled with West
System.  Last year we did the area under the fuel and water tanks (main
salon, starboard side), which I believe and hope is the last of it.  I now
plan to turn to other issues, like the worn interior appearance and those
pesky limber holes.

 

The boat does okay uphill and surprisingly well in
relatively light air off the wind.  It does not point as well as I believe
it should.  Probably a problem with the driver.

 

I enjoyed your note about the true value of a blooper
(keeping these darn boats going straight in heavy air downwind).  I haven’t
had the pleasure of trying it with my new blooper.  I have had the pleasure
of experiencing the relative lack of stability in Lake Erie’s quartering
seas.  I commented recently about Garmin’s wind transducer replacement
program.  Guess how I learned about it?

 

We should compare notes sometime.  It sounds like have a lot
of the same issues. 

 

Matt

 

From: Martin DeYoung  
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2020 2:03 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C&C 43 update

 

Matt,

 

I have noticed the same limber hole issue in Calypso’s bilge and dark hidden
spaces. I have been able to improve the function in many place but not all.
Fortunately I did not need to remove any prior owner’s work as it appeared
original. When we were installing the reinforcing “I” beams we made an extra
effort to shape the bilge to promote water flow to the bilge well.

 

One of the last significant bulkhead repair project I need to complete was
caused by one of the “built in”, sealed nooks under Calypso’s nav station.
I discovered the sealed space when exploring how far the bulkhead rot
extended.  I suspect the water in there was part of the rot source.  The way
Bruckmann’s crew finished out the companion way slider and spray hood
eventually allowed water to drip down into this space and the rotted
bulkhead area.

 

I rebuilt the failed structure under the slider with G10 epoxy board (no rot
concerns) and carefully shaped the space to allow the inevitable water
collecting there to flow out onto the deck.  Of course when I had that part
of the boat torn apart I reinforced areas of high load under the traveler to
be sure the loads were still shared by the adjoining structures.

 

Is your 42 an original design or a iteration from the 43?  I heard about one
of the later 43s (maybe Night Train?) that was built with the keel shape
modernized.  I also have heard that the 43 Opus in Vancouver BC is a
modernized version of the older 43 design. I expect the newer keel increases
the performance sailing to weather and in lighter conditions. Back in 1974
Calypso (as Arieto) was modified to rate better under IOR and added a new,
deeper rudder. The modification, bobbing the stern, was designed by C&C.  I
have a copy of the drawings used in case I have the time and budget to
restore the stern to its original shape.

 

Martin DeYoung

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle/Port Ludlow

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows
10

 

From: Matthew <mailto:wolf...@erie.net> 
Sent: Saturday, December 5, 2020 2:30 PM
To: 'Stus-List' <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C&C 43 update

 

Martin:

 

I can attest that the practices were not updated by 1973.
My boat has all kinds of nooks and crannies where water accumulates.  One of
my pet peeves is that often the limber holes were not placed at the bottom
of the area being drained, but instead a half inch or so above (such as just
forward of the mast).  As a result, the half inch or so of water doesn’t
drain.  I prior owner used Bondo to address this.  However, I discovered
that water works its way in under the Bondo.  I plan to remove all the Bondo
and level the various areas with West System.  Another job on my long list.

 

Matt

C&C 42 Custom (1976 Bruckmann built) 

 

From: 

Stus-List Re: C&C 43 History

[Matthew]

JohnKelly:

 

Would love to learn more about the 42 Custom if you ever come 
across anything.  I reached out to Bruckmann a while back but they have 
nothing.  I also sent a drawing that came with the boat to the museum that 
collects C&C stuff.

 

Thanks.

 

Matt

 

From: JohnKelly Cuthbertson  
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2020 11:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 43 History

 

>From Dad's Job Index

C&C 43

https://www.sugarsync.com/pf/D023919_94423331_2470760 

 

JohnKelly Cuthbertson

-- 


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Solar Vents

[Matthew]

Is that the correct voltage?

 

From: Dennis C.  
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2020 11:35 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Solar Vents

 

FWIW, the motor I used to replace the original in my Nicro/Marinco vent was 
this:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E4WQENM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8
 

 &psc=1&fpw=alm

 

Wasn't a direct replacement but if one is somewhat handy, one should make it 
work.

 

Although any RF-500TB motor should work.  Here's a copy of the specs on the one 
above:

 

*  Voltage: 3V

*  Voltage range: 1-3V

*  Rated power output: 0.29W

*  Current at max. efficiency: 175mA

*  Max. efficiency: 60%

*  Max.Torque: 68.01 g-cm

*  Max. RPM: 2104

*  No load RPM: 2700

*  No load current: 55mA

*  Shaft size: 0.078" Diameter x 0.34"L

*  Motor Size: 1.25" Diameter x 0.77"L

-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Solar Vents

[Matthew]

Excellent.  Thanks.

 

From: Dennis C.  
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2020 1:09 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Solar Vents

 

It works.  3vdc.  The battery is 1.5 I think.

 

There may be a better choice.  Just need to get the motor and shaft diameters 
right and the voltage close.

 

  -- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Mon, Dec 7, 2020 at 10:40 AM Matthew mailto:wolf...@erie.net> > wrote:

Is that the correct voltage?

 

From: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com> > 
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2020 11:35 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Solar Vents

 

FWIW, the motor I used to replace the original in my Nicro/Marinco vent was 
this:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E4WQENM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8
 
<https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E4WQENM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&fpw=alm>
 &psc=1&fpw=alm

 

Wasn't a direct replacement but if one is somewhat handy, one should make it 
work.

 

Although any RF-500TB motor should work.  Here's a copy of the specs on the one 
above:

 

*  Voltage: 3V

*  Voltage range: 1-3V

*  Rated power output: 0.29W

*  Current at max. efficiency: 175mA

*  Max. efficiency: 60%

*  Max.Torque: 68.01 g-cm

*  Max. RPM: 2104

*  No load RPM: 2700

*  No load current: 55mA

*  Shaft size: 0.078" Diameter x 0.34"L

*  Motor Size: 1.25" Diameter x 0.77"L

-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu




 

-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Solar Vents

[Matthew]

Thanks for the suggestions, all.  I will try to get rid of the banshee the
easy way before exchanging the motor.

 

From: Marek Dziedzic  
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2020 11:06 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Solar Vents

 

This might be a temporary fix, but put a drop of Sailkote lube into the
bearing.  

 

Marek 

 

 

 Original message 

From: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com> > 

Date: 2020-12-09 10:42 (GMT-05:00) 

To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Subject: Stus-List Re: Solar Vents 

 

Matt, 

This may be too simple of a fix, but Mine was making noise on occasion, and
I discovered the blade was pushed up too much and rubbing, pulling it down
on the shaft quieted it down.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Matthew [mailto:wolf...@erie.net] 
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2020 9:57 AM
To: 'Stus-List'
Subject: Stus-List Re: Solar Vents

 

One of my vents is having a bushing problem or something (making a
screeching sound).  I reached out to Marinco a couple months ago and was
advised that the rebuild kit is no longer made.

 

Matt

 

From: 2bbauman <2bbau...@gmail.com <mailto:2bbau...@gmail.com> > 
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2020 8:15 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Solar Vents

 

I did a Google search for nicro solar vent rebuild kit and for parts.  I
found a few commercial firms selling parts, including motors.  Hopefully
this helps..

Bernie

 

 

 Original message 

From: dwight veinot mailto:dwight...@gmail.com> > 

Date: 12/6/20 7:48 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Subject: Stus-List Re: Solar Vents 

 

The Nicro solar vents work quite well when new. However the motor in mine
died after about 4 years. The unit was imo expensive at nearly $300 and loss
of a $5 or less small dc motor turned it into a much cheaper mushroom vent.
So far I have not been able to source a replacement motor. 

 

On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 8:06 PM David Risch mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com> > wrote:

Did a bit of research.  Seems they all stink.What say you?

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you. 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks -
Stu

-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

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Stus-List Re: Rendezvous

[Matthew]

Yes, thanks Stu for setting up the rendezvous; and thank you all for attending. 
 It’s good to put faces with names.

 

Happy Holidays!

 

Matt

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: lines slip on winch

[Matthew]

Good practice tip.  Thanks!

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER  
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2020 12:38 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Subject: Stus-List lines slip on winch

 

Hi all, 

Just read an article in the September/October Practical describing a sailor who 
had his 1978 Barient winches rechromed by a shop.  The drums were re-etched and 
rechromed and still his lines would slip.  He tried a few things and settled on 
adding a 1 inch wide stip of 3M safety-walk non-skid tape to the uppermost part 
of the drum, and it works well.  In light winds, he can ease the sheet and it 
slides across the bare chrome part of the drum.  The tape is only needed in 
higher winds when he has several more wraps around the winch.  Just wanted to 
share. 

  

Chuck 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New sails?????

[Matthew]

Good choice.

 

From: Ted_Relinda--- via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2020 3:19 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: ted_reli...@yahoo.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: New sails?

 

Well Doyle wins out. He  said they would match with no problem. Josh will be 
here Friday morning to do the measuring. Can't wait now. 

Ted

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 

 

 

On Wed, Dec 16, 2020 at 8:23, Danny Haughey

mailto:djhaug...@juno.com> > wrote:

John,

yes, I have.  I would recommend them.  When I googled the address, in Sri 
Lanka, where the sail came from it showed up as Quantum.

The measuring is pretty strait forward and they spent a long time on the phone 
making sure everything made sense and compared to photos and talked about 
design aspects.

I got my new 135 Furling Genoa from them.  I got all the bels and whistles and 
it still came out about 25% cheaper than a lesser spec'd, local sail.  The 
local lofts have complimented the quality when I bring it in for inspection and 
storage.

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: John Christopher mailto:phygi...@gmail.com> >
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: New sails?
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2020 06:20:04 -0500

Has anyone used Precision Sails out of Vancouver?

C&C Landfall 38, Hull #155

/John

 

On Dec 16, 2020, at 5:58 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I have new Quantum sails made in their Sri Lanka factory and workmanship is 
excellent—I highly recommend them! 

 

Bob

Bob Boyer 

s/v Rainy Days

C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)

(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

email: dainyr...@icloud.com  

 

On Dec 15, 2020, at 4:26 PM, Ted_Relinda--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Question to the group.  

 

I am getting a new set of cruising sails for our 40.   My choice is going to be 
between Doyle or Quantum. I have had Doyle sail before and their service and 
quality were great. Made in St.Pete Fl. right up the road. 100 miles. 

Quantum sails with almost identical specs comes in about 400 bucks lower but 
are made in Sri  Lanka. Service is relatively close on on the east coast of Fl. 
Given between the two, what might you buy. 

Has anybody had experience with the SriLanka sails. It's my understanding that 
several lofts and a lot of sails come from there. 

 

Thanks

 

Ted

S/V Ten-Ten

Punta Gorda, Fl. 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
 Thanks - Stu 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Stus-Ian Matthews

[Ian Matthew]

Richard,

Thank you. It's all part of trying to get more racing.  Take a look at how
the race went:
http://norcalsailing.com/entries/2013/01/14/tyc/tycmidwinters.html#.UPZGAny9KSM
It was perfect conditions for a C&C 29!

I am told Wednesday's Latitude will have something as well

Another great day on San Francisco Bay!



On Friday, January 11, 2013, Richard N. Bush wrote:

> A shout out to Ian Matthews, C&C 29; of San Francisco area, he is Race
> Committee Chair and his photo is featured in the current Latitude 38,
> here's the link;
> http://www.latitude38.com/lectronic/lectronicday.lasso?date=2013-01-11
>  Richard
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor
> Louisville, Kentucky 40202
> 502-584-7255
>  **
>
>


-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C&C 29 mk 1
San Francisco Bay

Sent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List FYI - found this C&C 30 share deal

[Ian Matthew]

 It's a 29 my 1 - very similar to mine!



On Tuesday, February 26, 2013, Leslie Paal wrote:

> Definitely NOT a 32.
>
> Leslie (I own one)
>
>   --
> *From:* Gary Nylander  'cvml', 'gnylan...@atlanticbb.net');>>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com  'cnc-list@cnc-list.com');>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 26, 2013 10:35 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List FYI - found this C&C 30 share deal
>
>  Definitely not a 30-1, could be a 32 or a 30-2 or a 27-5.
> Gary
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Joseph Bognar 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com  'cnc-list@cnc-list.com');>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 26, 2013 1:26 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List FYI - found this C&C 30 share deal
>
>  That boat is not a 30 ft C&C, It looks like a 32. 30’s do not have a
> swept back transom like that,
>
> Joe Bognar
> 1979 C&C 30
> In Luff Again 11
>
>  *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 'cvml', 'cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com');>]
> *On Behalf Of *Della Barba, Joe
> *Sent:* February-26-13 12:02 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com  'cnc-list@cnc-list.com');>
> *Subject:* Stus-List FYI - found this C&C 30 share deal
>
> http://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/3633044380.html
>
> I suspect this may be the old Synchronicity.
>
>  *Joe Della Barba*
>  --
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com  'CnC-List@cnc-list.com');>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com  'CnC-List@cnc-list.com');>
>
>
>

-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C&C 29 mk 1
San Francisco Bay

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Re: Stus-List mainsheet blocks for 29'

[Ian Matthew]

Tim,

I'll try and visit my boat this lunchtime and I'll take some photos for
you.  I replaced the original traveller track with a harken track and car
(making sure I bought the compatible both hole pitch rather than the new
one - I bought it from Mauri Pro and it fitted the old holes perfectly)

I have a double sheet system with a trim setup - you'll see in the photos.
 This allows me to flatten the main really hard - very important in sailing
San Francisco Bay.

Ian


On Wednesday, March 13, 2013, tim wrote:

> Hi,
>
> ** **
>
>I’m in the process of replacing the traveler, mainsheet blocks on my
> 29’.  Think I still have original equipment and is in the cockpit.  Can
> others provide me with types of blocks they use or recommendations?  I
> viewed the Harken site, with recommendation a 6:1 triple block system
> (hexratchet at the base).  A local sailmaker stated these fail quite often
> and have a lot of friction due to the twist.  He recommended a 5:1 system.
> 
>
> ** **
>
>Can others provide suggested setups?  Look forward to guidance.
>
> ** **
>
> Thanks,
>
> ** **
>
> Tim Welsh****
>
> Sly Fox
>
> Mallets Bay, VT
>
> 29’ MK1 (1976)
>


-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C&C 29 mk 1
San Francisco Bay

Sent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List mainsheet blocks for 29'

[Ian Matthew]

Tim & John,

Here is my setup.  Only drawback is that it doesn't work well
single-handed.  But as I only race fully crewed, it's not a problem for me.

Here are the photo's (Don't look at the varnish on the companionway - job
for a little later when it gets a bit warmer and less likely to rain!)
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/16196194/Siento_el_Viento_Traveler_setup/2013-03-14%2012.49.13.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/16196194/Siento_el_Viento_Traveler_setup/2013-03-14%2012.49.35.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/16196194/Siento_el_Viento_Traveler_setup/2013-03-14%2012.49.45.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/16196194/Siento_el_Viento_Traveler_setup/2013-03-14%2012.49.52.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/16196194/Siento_el_Viento_Traveler_setup/2013-03-14%2012.49.59.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/16196194/Siento_el_Viento_Traveler_setup/2013-03-14%2012.50.11.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/16196194/Siento_el_Viento_Traveler_setup/2013-03-14%2012.50.16.jpg

Yes - there is a lot of mainsheet, but again it isn't much of a problem.

Ian



On Thu, Mar 14, 2013 at 12:03 PM,  wrote:

> Ian:
> I would very much like to see your set up, as well.  Not at all pleased
> with the present traveler system on my 29-2.
>
>  John McLaughlin
> "Falcon"
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Ian Matthew 
> To: cnc-list 
> Sent: Thu, Mar 14, 2013 2:15 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mainsheet blocks for 29'
>
>  Tim,
>
>  I'll try and visit my boat this lunchtime and I'll take some photos for
> you.  I replaced the original traveller track with a harken track and car
> (making sure I bought the compatible both hole pitch rather than the new
> one - I bought it from Mauri Pro and it fitted the old holes perfectly)
>
>  I have a double sheet system with a trim setup - you'll see in the
> photos.  This allows me to flatten the main really hard - very important in
> sailing San Francisco Bay.
>
>  Ian
>
>
> On Wednesday, March 13, 2013, tim wrote:
>
>>  Hi,
>> ** **
>>I’m in the process of replacing the traveler, mainsheet blocks on my
>> 29’.  Think I still have original equipment and is in the cockpit.  Can
>> others provide me with types of blocks they use or recommendations?  I
>> viewed the Harken site, with recommendation a 6:1 triple block system
>> (hexratchet at the base).  A local sailmaker stated these fail quite often
>> and have a lot of friction due to the twist.  He recommended a 5:1 system.
>> 
>> ** **
>>Can others provide suggested setups?  Look forward to guidance.
>> ** **
>> Thanks,
>> ** **
>> Tim Welsh
>> Sly Fox
>> Mallets Bay, VT
>> 29’ MK1 (1976)
>>
>
>
> --
> Ian Matthew
> "Siento el Viento" C&C 29 mk 1
> San Francisco Bay
> Sent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo 
> Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comcnc-l...@cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List mainsheet blocks for 29'

[Ian Matthew]

Yes it is - makes it easy to release the leeward traveler line when you
tack.

Ian


On Thursday, March 14, 2013, Joel Aronson wrote:

> Is the traveler control line a continuous line?
>
> Joel Aronson
>
>
> On Mar 14, 2013, at 11:07 PM, Ian Matthew 
> wrote:
>
> Tim & John,
>
> Here is my setup.  Only drawback is that it doesn't work well
> single-handed.  But as I only race fully crewed, it's not a problem for me.
>
> Here are the photo's (Don't look at the varnish on the companionway - job
> for a little later when it gets a bit warmer and less likely to rain!)
>
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/16196194/Siento_el_Viento_Traveler_setup/2013-03-14%2012.49.13.jpg
>
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/16196194/Siento_el_Viento_Traveler_setup/2013-03-14%2012.49.35.jpg
>
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/16196194/Siento_el_Viento_Traveler_setup/2013-03-14%2012.49.45.jpg
>
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/16196194/Siento_el_Viento_Traveler_setup/2013-03-14%2012.49.52.jpg
>
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/16196194/Siento_el_Viento_Traveler_setup/2013-03-14%2012.49.59.jpg
>
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/16196194/Siento_el_Viento_Traveler_setup/2013-03-14%2012.50.11.jpg
>
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/16196194/Siento_el_Viento_Traveler_setup/2013-03-14%2012.50.16.jpg
>
>  Yes - there is a lot of mainsheet, but again it isn't much of a problem.
>
> Ian
>
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 14, 2013 at 12:03 PM,  wrote:
>
> Ian:
> I would very much like to see your set up, as well.  Not at all pleased
> with the present traveler system on my 29-2.
>
>  John McLaughlin
> "Falcon"
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Ian Matthew 
> To: cnc-list 
> Sent: Thu, Mar 14, 2013 2:15 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mainsheet blocks for 29'
>
>  Tim,
>
>  I'll try and visit my boat this lunchtime and I'll take some photos for
> you.  I replaced the original traveller track with a harken track and car
> (making sure I bought the compatible both hole pitch rather than the new
> one - I bought it from Mauri Pro and it fitted the old holes perfectly)
>
>  I have a double sheet system with a trim setup - you'll see in the
> photos.  This allows me to flatten the main really hard - very important in
> sailing San Francisco Bay.
>
>  Ian
>
>
> On Wednesday, March 13, 2013, tim wrote:
>
>  Hi,
> ** **
>I’m in the process of replacing the traveler, mainsheet blocks on my
> 29’.  Think I still have original equipment and is in the cockpit.  Can
> others provide me with types of blocks they use or recommendations?  I
> viewed the Harken site, with recommendation a 6:1 triple block system
> (hexratchet at the base).  A local sailmaker stated these fail quite often
> and have a lot of friction due to the twist.  He recommended a 5:1 system.
> 
> ** **
>
>

-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C&C 29 mk 1
San Francisco Bay

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Re: Stus-List spinnaker sheets

[Ian Matthew]

I use tylaska snap shackles -
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=45109&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50045&subdeptNum=50046&classNum=50047#.T_5bj2t5mSM
I have lost too many ronstan snap shackles when things have got wild and
the sheet shook free of the spinnaker

Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento".   C&C 29-1
San Francisco Bay

On Wednesday, July 11, 2012, Tim Goodyear wrote:

> Snap shackles, ultra-tech, stripped for first 10'.
>
> Tim
> Mojito
> 35-3
>
> On Jul 11, 2012, at 8:45 PM, "Dennis C."  'cvml', 'capt...@yahoo.com');>>
> wrote:
>
> Two part sheets, Dyneema stuffed into a tail of StaSet, long eye (luggage
> tag eye) with snap shackle.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 11, 2012, at 7:16 PM, Chuck S 
> >
> wrote:
>
> Hey guys,
> Making up new spinnaker sheets.
> Are you guys using snapschackles, Tylaska trigger release, or dyneema
> loops?
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com  'CnC-List@cnc-list.com');>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com  'CnC-List@cnc-list.com');>
>
>

-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C&C 29 mk 1
San Francisco Bay

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Re: Stus-List Doing some sailing

[Ian Matthew]

Dennis,

It's amazing what seamanship the Blue Angels brings out.  We have their
display here in San Francisco every October for "Fleet Week". Of course
there are no Naval Bases here but it's nice that they come out and show off
- their display is simply awesome.

I usually go out to watch them anchored off Alcatraz Island. Of course
there is always anchoring fun there too. I always like to keep away from
the power boats - it's like they come out only twice a year and haven't a
clue.  One year one of them decided to anchor off the west end of Alcatraz
and wasn't concerned about the buoy off the point - well later on they
realized what it was there for as they became impaled on "Little Acalraz" -
a nasty sharp rock. The photo in the next morning's SF Chronicle was
impressive.  The nice 40 foot power boat was completely level but 2 feet
above the water - fully impaled.

Today was club racing on the Bay. Started off with a nice 15 knot breeze,
but soon got up to 25 gusting 40 - bit of a handful for my 29-1. I had a
couple of experienced crew who hadn't sailed on my boat before - we had a
dead run in 25 kts in a good ebb - nice waves - everything right for
rocking and rolling - fairly typical in my boat - took them a while to get
used to it - the rest of my crew were at rest and know to hang on.  Fun on
the wheel :)

I'd love to sail in the gulf. It must be nice to sail in warm water!



On Saturday, July 14, 2012, Dennis C. wrote:

> Nice sail across Pensacola Bay then motored to anchor point in Santa Rosa
> Sound to watch Blue Angels air show. Frequent showers but after a short
> rain delay the US Navy's finest put on a great show. One of the solo pilots
> made an incredibly tight turn right over Touché.  The vapor coming off the
> wings and fuselage was pretty impressive.
>
> Lots of boats anchored in Fishing Bend to watch the air show. However, a
> lot of the show was the boats and lack of seamanship. We watched a large
> Carver motor yacht "anchor" off our port side. Took the idiot a full half
> hour to realize he wasn't hooked. He finally figured it out and moved. Then
> he dragged again. After a display of incredible ineptitude, he managed to
> hook his anchor over the anchor rode of a 50+ foot sport fisherman and bang
> into the side of it. Watching the two boats tangled together was painful.
>
> This was only one instance of half dozen or so anchor dragging events.
>  This isn't rocket science. Some people are just stuck on stupid.
>
> Most of the boats have left and the admiral and I just grilled and ate a
> nice dinner. We're about to weigh anchor and head back to the Pensacola
> Yacht Club.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>


-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C&C 29 mk 1
San Francisco Bay

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Re: Stus-List Who pays for the food and beer?

[Ian Matthew]

I have my cooler stocked with beer, wine, water and sodas which are
provided by me and my crew.  They chip in whenever and I make sure we
always have refreshments when we are racing.

I always provide the lunch sandwiches for Saturday races and then back in
the club, drinks are bought by whoever is caught too close to the bar.  (I
am usually sitting at the computer calculating all the corrected times and
they make sure I have a full glass in my hand!)

I have a great crew who know my boat inside out and who can get started
prepping it before I arrive and who make sure it is all put to bed when we
are done (including hosed down). That kind of crew deserves refreshments!


On Tuesday, July 24, 2012, Chuck S wrote:

> Good topic:  Who pays for food and beer?
>
> I started racing two years ago so I'm new to racing and the customary
> rituals necessary to help the crew bond and keep returning.  I see I have
> been wrong, releasing them to drive home as soon as we touch the dock.
>  After a race, I like to put the boat away alone, so I know where
> everything is.   I also feel I need some quiet time after racing, so I try
> to get them to party on the two hour run to the dock.  My dock is behind a
> private residence with no room to party, so I might have to find a watering
> hole where we can share a drink before everybody drives home.  Some of my
> guys drive over an hour, so not sure how that will fly?  Otherwise I keep
> plenty of water bottles in the ice box along with ginger ale, coke, pepsi,
> sprite or fresca, iced tea, and plenty of a light beer.  Some guys add
> their favorite beer to the ice.
>
>
> I do all the boat prep and carry all expenses, entry fees repair costs
> etc.  I want my boat how I want it, the crew to enjoy the race, work hard
> at winning, but have fun, and come back.  We don't have alcohol during the
> racing, but maybe one after the last race, (it's a two hour sail or motor
> from the racing venue to our dock) and definitely offer drinks at the dock.
>   I tell them to take some drinks (soda or water) with them for the drive
> home.
>
>
> We just completed the Atlantic City Race Week Regatta.  We had a crew of 5
> on Friday and I provided doughnuts for the morning, and Italian hoagies for
> lunch.  Some of the crew brought their own lunch, but the hoagie was
> devoured.  They liked that.
>
>
> Saturday, crew of 7, we waited on the docks all day but the races were
> eventually cancelled.  I had doughnuts and turkey and chicken wraps for the
> crew, but 4 crew went sightseeing at Revel's new casino during the wait,
> and had lunch watching the ocean from the casino.
>
>
> Sunday, I had a crew of 6.  I bought a 2 ft hoagie cut into 6 pieces.
>  Plus I had 4 wraps left over from the day before.  Some crew brought their
> own sandwiches and the hoagie was devoured.  The wraps were left behind.
>  (note to self: the guys don't like wraps)
>
>
> I've brought lots of snacks, and other drinks like Gatorade, but they
> don't get touched, so I pared it down.
>
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
> --
> *From: *"Rich Knowles"  'r...@sailpower.ca');>>
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com  'cnc-list@cnc-list.com');>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, July 24, 2012 6:19:20 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Who pays for the food and beer?
>
> I'm a cheap sod. I supply the hydrocarbons, they supply the carbohydrates.
> But not all the time....
>
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo LF38
> Halifax, Nova Scotia
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com  'CnC-List@cnc-list.com');>
>


-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C&C 29 mk 1
San Francisco Bay

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Re: Stus-List Sailing gloves

[Ian Matthew]

I can't imagine sailing without gloves.  But then the SF Bay isn't exactly
the warmest sailing environment!  Fred - you mustn't be doing any sheet
adjustment!  I also sail on a Cal-40 and do main trim on that.  Gabbing the
main without gloves is really painful.

My best gloves are Harkens.  They are in their 3rd season - not bad.  I had
some Gill's but they disintegrated quickly - went back to te Harkens.
 Recently I bought some West Marine gloves which seem to be doing OK, but
this is their first year - but when I go on the Cal, then I like my Harkens.


On Thursday, August 9, 2012, Walt Dickie wrote:

> We were talking about this before going out racing last night. Two of us
> had Gill gloves simply disintegrate during the Mac this year, and my
> college-age son says that when he was racing 420s in high school the whole
> team swore off Gill forever. He was wearing an ancient pair of Ronstans
> that were still in great condition after multiple seasons. Impressive.
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com  'cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com');> 
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 'cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com');>]
> *On Behalf Of *Frederick G Street
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 08, 2012 5:25 PM
> *To:* Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com  'cnc-list@cnc-list.com');>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sailing gloves
>
> ** **
>
> Dennis -- I only use gloves when sailing if I need to keep my hands warm,
> so I don't have much experience with this; but I've used a bunch of these
> from time to time at work, and they seem to be quite a good value for the
> money:
>
> ** **
>
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ecodZ5yc1v/R-202021235/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=firm+grip&storeId=10051&superSkuId=202892938#.UCLmf0SUhoo
> 
>
> ** **
>
> I'd be curious to know how the waterproof version holds up -- might be
> nice to have some on the boat:
>
> ** **
>
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202021234/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=firm+grip&storeId=10051#.UCLm90SUhoo
> 
>
> ** **
>
> FWIW...
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(*
> ***
>
> ** **
>
> On Aug 8, 2012, at 5:10 PM, Dennis C. wrote:
>
>
>
> 
>
> I was sorting through Touche's glove locker over the weekend.  Over the
> years, I've accumulated all manner of gloves.  On inspection, the ones that
> seemed to be in the best shape were the old Trophy brand goatskin? gloves
> from my catamaran days.  They seemed to be in the best shape.  The Harken
> Black Magic and Gill "hi tech" grippy gloves seemed to have the worst wear.
> 
>
> ** **
>
> What's the list finding for good gloves?  Anyone use Atlas sailing
> gloves?  Henri Lloyd?  Gill Pro gloves?  Musto?  Zimco?  Five Oceans?
> Victory?  Ronstan?  NRS?  Zhic?
>
> ** **
>
> How about Dakine brand gloves?  I use them for snowboarding.  They make
> sailing gloves now.
>
> ** **
>
> Cheap Home Depot gloves with the fingers cut down?
>
> ** **
>
> I saw one reference to Ergodyne Proflex framer's gloves.  They actually
> look like they'd make a pretty good sailing glove.  :)
>
> ** **
>


-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C&C 29 mk 1
San Francisco Bay

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Stus-List Sailing Website (racing and cruising)

[Ian Matthew]

Edd,

How would you be different?  I don't mean to sound nasty, but there's a
hell of a lot of competition.  Here in the SF Bay area we have Sailing
Anarchy, Scuttlebutt, Latitude 38, NorCalSailing and Pressure-Drop.



On Friday, August 17, 2012, Chuck S wrote:

> Edd,
> Your blog is so funny.  I hope that remains part of the new site.
> There is a lot of great content out on the web already.  Maybe you could
> review and approve and copy the good stuff to your new site?
> Another idea:  There are several contributers to Stus' list who write
> well, explain things in interesting, sometimes entertaining ways, maybe get
> them to write a column?
>
> Another idea:  Get Photoboat.com to send in a photo link to some great
> racing shots.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
> --
> *From: *"Edd Schillay" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent: *Friday, August 17, 2012 12:41:00 PM
> *Subject: *Stus-List Sailing Website (racing and cruising)
>
> All,
>
> I'm looking to start up a new sailing website dedicated to racing and
> cruising news, events and forums. Something similar to Sailing Anarchy
> without all the, um, anarchy.
>
> There would be, of course, links to Stu's site and other boat information
> sites.
>
> As I formulate what to feature and what not to feature, I'd appreciate any
> input you may have as to what you'd look for in such a site and what things
> you've seen on others ties that annoy you.
>
> My hope is to launch in late 2012 or early 2013. You know, after the boat
> is away for the winter. :-)
>
>
>  All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
>  Starship Enterprise
>  C&C 37/40+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
>  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website<http://ncc1701a.blogspot.com/>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>


-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C&C 29 mk 1
San Francisco Bay

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Stus-List Re: Your preferences

[Matthew Schlanger]

Received.


> On Sep 16, 2020, at 1:37 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> TEST ONE
> Sent to the list, not any individual person
> JDB Coquina
> ___
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Stus-List FYI - C&Cs win in Nyack

[Matthew Schlanger]

The Nyack Boat Club (NY) Wednesday night racing season ended last night and for 
both in the spinnaker and non-spin divisions the winners were a C&C 35 mk III, 
1983 and 1984 respectively. Second place in spin was a C&C 36/37. These are the 
only two C&C 35 mk III's racing, and other than these 3 there weren’t any other 
C&Cs competing. No it’s not always like this, for one, for several years a 
stripped down Tripp 37 owned by a very talented sailor ruled the spinnaker 
division. 

Or it could also be that these three boats, plus one other, had their hulls 
cleaned more than any others competing.
Hmm, it’s rumored that Tripp 37 had it’s crew dive on the hull every week...

Matthew Schlanger
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Stus-List Genoa car repair

[Matthew Schlanger]

Just letting all know if your Genoa car end cap cracks, like mine did, Harken 
sells car repair kits for the older 80’s cars. It’s a relatively easy repair. 
Also I recommend replacing your broken shock cords that keep the cars back as 
in heavy wind having the adjustment line wrapped around the opposite end and 
trying to adjust cracked the car. 

One thing. I want to replace a missing track end stop and I can’t get the stop 
screw to come up. It spins but doesn’t come out. Any thoughts? This also made 
fixing the car slightly more difficult since I couldn’t use he plastic ball 
bearing loader to slide the loaded car on the easy way.

Thanks in advance.

Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C&C 35 MK III
Nyack NY
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Stus-List Re: Replacing Whale Gusher 10 bilge pump

[Ian Matthew]

Hi Derek,

I had the exact same thing happen to me and I was given a Titan pump from a
colleague.  The same problem with my Gusher - too much corrosion inside to
rebuild the pump.  The Titan just wouldn't fit so I ended up buying a
replacement Gusher on eBay for a good price,  Replacement was easy!

-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1
San Francisco Bay
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Stus-List Re: Genoa car repair

[Matthew Schlanger]

Ah of course. Will look underneath.
M

> On Sep 24, 2020, at 4:46 PM, ALAN BERGEN  wrote:
> 
> There could be a nut holding it from below. If not, have an assistant push up 
> on the screw from below while unscrewing from above.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
> 
> 
> On Thu, Sep 24, 2020 at 1:44 PM Matthew Schlanger  <mailto:m...@blackhammer.com>> wrote:
> Just letting all know if your Genoa car end cap cracks, like mine did, Harken 
> sells car repair kits for the older 80’s cars. It’s a relatively easy repair. 
> Also I recommend replacing your broken shock cords that keep the cars back as 
> in heavy wind having the adjustment line wrapped around the opposite end and 
> trying to adjust cracked the car. 
> 
> One thing. I want to replace a missing track end stop and I can’t get the 
> stop screw to come up. It spins but doesn’t come out. Any thoughts? This also 
> made fixing the car slightly more difficult since I couldn’t use he plastic 
> ball bearing loader to slide the loaded car on the easy way.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> C&C 35 MK III
> Nyack NY
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>  
> 
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Stus-List Re: FYI - C&Cs win in Nyack

[Matthew Schlanger]

Joel,

Yes. Thanks.

We added a new #1 to the arsenal which changed things on the race course.

I recently trashed the spin you had labeled a .75 and are happy using the .5 - 
which is really also a .75 according to my sail maker.
I want to find a reasonably priced used, but more modern, symmetrical.
There’s one on eBay that’s a little small.

We should speak off-list. I might still have a manual for your EPERB.

Matthew

> On Sep 24, 2020, at 5:08 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
> 
> Matt,
> 
> congrats!  I take it you are enjoying The Office!
> 
> Joel
> 
>  
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>  Virus-free. www.avg.com 
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>  
> On Thu, Sep 24, 2020 at 4:37 PM Matthew Schlanger  <mailto:m...@blackhammer.com>> wrote:
> The Nyack Boat Club (NY) Wednesday night racing season ended last night and 
> for both in the spinnaker and non-spin divisions the winners were a C&C 35 mk 
> III, 1983 and 1984 respectively. Second place in spin was a C&C 36/37. These 
> are the only two C&C 35 mk III's racing, and other than these 3 there weren’t 
> any other C&Cs competing. No it’s not always like this, for one, for several 
> years a stripped down Tripp 37 owned by a very talented sailor ruled the 
> spinnaker division. 
> 
> Or it could also be that these three boats, plus one other, had their hulls 
> cleaned more than any others competing.
> Hmm, it’s rumored that Tripp 37 had it’s crew dive on the hull every week...
> 
> Matthew Schlanger
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Stus-List Re: Touche' hurricane repair progress

[Matthew Schlanger]

Nice.



Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 16, 2020, at 7:34 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:
> 
> 
> The repairs to Touche' from Hurricane Sally are progressing well.  From this:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TDqinFU9_oADHeFNxPgwFKHUoYLbR7gP/view?usp=sharing
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CmFi5TTPXsPhFgN3MvqFayt7_hpNfi7J/view?usp=sharing
> 
> To this:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QAGmZ4qATCD4oDKd7ZmZttDDvE1wTMi9/view?usp=sharing
> 
> Repairs and new bottom paint should be complete by the end of next week, 
> weather permitting.  Touche' will be a new boat!
> 
> The sad part is Touche's pier in Pensacola was severely damaged during the 
> storm and must be rebuilt.  I will have to bring Touche' back to my other 
> slip in Louisiana for a few months.  It also means there is no place to dock 
> Touche' after splashing in order to provision it for the trip.  Since the now 
> condemned pier was at the same shipyard, they have been very accommodating 
> since Touche' was a long term tenant.  I scheduled the last slot for their 
> work week for splash next Friday.  Since the haul out bay will not be needed 
> until Monday morning, the shipyard is allowing me to keep the boat in the 
> haul out bay for the weekend.  We'll provision it and depart Saturday.
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Winches

[Matthew L. Wolford]

Chrome plated bronze.  I’ll take a picture and send off list.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 25, 2020, at 11:23 AM, Robert Mazza  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Mathew, 
> 
> How much are you asking for the pair? Are they aluminium or chrome plated 
> bronze, and where are you located? Erie, PA? At the right price, I'm 
> certainly interested!  However, we will need to wait for the Canadian/US 
> border to reopen for me to pick them up. 
> 
> Rob
> 
>> On Sat, Oct 24, 2020 at 11:43 AM Matthew  wrote:
>> Don’t know without measuring.  They’re not very large.  There may be 
>> information on the Australian winch company site that sells Barient parts.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: Robert Mazza  
>> Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2020 11:42 AM
>> To: Stus-List 
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Winches
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> What is the base diameter of the Barient 23 STs?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Sat, Oct 24, 2020, 11:26 AM Matthew,  wrote:
>> 
>> Listers:
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I forget who asked about the winches I’m replacing.  There are four Merriman 
>> Holbrook 25 non-STs and two Barient 23 STs.  I haven’t given any thought to 
>> what I will do with them or how much I would sell them for, but I don’t plan 
>> to get rich on my C&C list friends.  If anyone is interested, let me know.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Matt
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Matthew L. Wolford 
>> 638 West Sixth Street 
>> Erie, PA 16507 
>> (814) 459-9600 (Office) 
>> (814) 459-9661 (Fax) 
>> (814) 392-5599 (Cell) 
>> 
>> The information contained in this e-mail note and any attachments is 
>> intended for the personal and confidential use of the designated 
>> recipient(s). This communication may be an attorney-client communication, 
>> attorney work product, or otherwise privileged, confidential, or protected 
>> from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient 
>> or an authorized agent, you are hereby notified that you have received this 
>> communication in error, and that any review, dissemination, distribution, 
>> copying of, use of, or reliance upon this communication is prohibited. If 
>> you believe this communication was sent to you in error, do not read it. 
>> Please reply to the sender that you received the note in error and delete 
>> it. Thank you.
>> 
>> Please consider the environment before printing this note.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
>> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
>> 
>> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
>> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 35-1 being parted out in Sidney, BC.

[Matthew L. Wolford]

I submitted an online inquiry for teak trim but didn’t hear back.  Is there a 
better way to contact the owner?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 24, 2020, at 9:01 PM, Shawn Wright  wrote:
> 
> 
> It's a '74 mk2, hull #243, named "Chimo V". I was there on Saturday to look 
> at the boomkicker vang, but it was already gone, as was the main and quite a 
> few other items. Ending up getting a twin block Schaefer mainsheet setup in 
> ok shape and a few original cleats to add midships for spring lines. The 
> interior was in just ok shape, and most of the teak was being pulled out. As 
> most of the items were in no better shape than my own, there wasn't much else 
> I needed. The mast, boom and furler appeared to be in good shape.
> 
> Very sad to see a great boat die like this, but it was insured. With the 
> current demand for boats, the owner might have trouble finding a replacement, 
> although he apparently had her since the 80s, so maybe he is ready for 
> something different, still very upsetting though. 
> 
> I noted that she'd been grinding on the rocks for long enough to wear a 
> section about 1/2" deep and 12x18" on the hull ahead of the keel, but the 
> only part that might have taken on water was a gash where the prop was driven 
> into the hull as the shaft was bent - the glass appeared not as thick here. 
> The rudder post was only slightly bent, so not sure how the prop got whacked 
> so hard, maybe a log on the beach. Lots of serious gashes on the keel where 
> she went aground on Mayne Island in a SE storm a few weeks ago. It's been a 
> bad storm season for us already, with the last one showing 8 hours of 
> sustained 60-80kn winds further north on Vancouver Island, and 40-50kn in 
> parts of our "sheltered" waters near Victoria.
> 
> On another sad note, last weekend's club racing saw a serious collision 
> between two C&C 30s, and I have heard that one may be a write off. :(
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> 
> 
> On Sat, Nov 21, 2020 at 6:21 PM Jim Watts  wrote:
>> https://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/Parting-out-1974-CC-35_36827815
>> 
>> Bad news for the owner, regrets if you're on the list. Looks well-equipped. 
>> 
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
>> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New sails?????

[Matthew L. Wolford]

I have three North sails, I believe all from Sri Lanka.  My NorDac main was 
made incorrectly, and my chute came with a 3-digit instead of 5-digit sail 
number.  Although off-season service has been okay, I’m done with North due to 
price and QA/QC problems.  My go-to Genoa is a Doyle.  Don’t know where it was 
made, but I’m very happy with it.  Don’t know anything about Quantum.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 15, 2020, at 5:11 PM, Edd Schillay  wrote:
> 
> Ted,
> 
> I would go with Doyle. Nothing beats having a local sailmaker to come out and 
> measure and adjust after the sails are on — you may need to have a spreader 
> patch moved, add tell tales, whatever. Local is best. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Dec 15, 2020, at 4:25 PM, Ted_Relinda--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Question to the group. 
> 
> I am getting a new set of cruising sails for our 40.   My choice is going to 
> be between Doyle or Quantum. I have had Doyle sail before and their service 
> and quality were great. Made in St.Pete Fl. right up the road. 100 miles. 
> Quantum sails with almost identical specs comes in about 400 bucks lower but 
> are made in Sri  Lanka. Service is relatively close on on the east coast of 
> Fl. Given between the two, what might you buy. 
> Has anybody had experience with the SriLanka sails. It's my understanding 
> that several lofts and a lot of sails come from there. 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Ted
> S/V Ten-Ten
> Punta Gorda, Fl. 
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Checking the list

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Martin:

 

What are you using for the “shiny” paint?

 

Matt

C&C 42 Custom

 

From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2021 4:59 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER ; Martin DeYoung 

Subject: Stus-List Re: Checking the list

 

When I mentioned being jealous of how much time my father-in-law was spending 
aboard his classic wood power boat my wife firmly reminded me I am spending 
many hours a week onboard its just in the yard with sand paper in hand.

It is rumored the professional painting crew will begin to prep the topsides 
next week. Meanwhile I will continue to hand sand and primer coat the deck to 
prepare for applying “shiny” paint and Kiwi Grip non-skid. I plan to put 
Calypso back in the water around the first of October. 

 

Martin DeYoung

Calypso 

1971 C&C 43

Seattle/Port Townsend’s yard 





On Aug 1, 2021, at 7:54 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Ho pe everyone is well and sailing.   The list has been quiet for several days. 

  

Chuck S 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C smile and rust

[Matthew via CnC-List]

I can’t tell from the picture what that is.  If it was coming from the bilge 
(like diesel fuel), I would expect it on both sides.  I suggest asking the 
owner directly.

 

As for the smile, C&C did not do a great job mating the lead keel to the 
fortified fiberglass keel stub (or trunk).  Some owners on this list have fixed 
the problem on their boats.  My sense is that most just tolerate it.  A related 
issue on my boat (not sure about the 30 Mark I) is that the leading edge of the 
keel where it meets the hull, which is forward of where the lead is bolted on, 
is surprisingly “non-structural.”  The weight of the keel is borne by the 
bolts, which should be tight to the stub/trunk.  However, on my boat, and I 
suspect there are many, the keel is glassed to the hull forward of the strong 
stub/trunk area.  As a result, it is non uncommon to see some cracking where 
the leading edge of the keel meets the hull.  I spoke with a naval architect 
who interned at C&C in the 70’s, and he explained that this area does not 
support the weight of the keel, and C&C was not concerned about fortifying it.  
 He told me not to worry about the cracking, although I constantly keep an eye 
on it.  I noticed that my friend’s 41 has the same issue.  

 

From: Greg Van Nest via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2021 2:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Greg Van Nest 
Subject: Stus-List C&C smile and rust

 

Hi, I'm new here. I tried posting this a couple days ago, but I don't know if 
it went through.  I apologize if it did--I'm not trying to be irritating.  

 

I tried searching the archives regarding my question, but didn't find anything 
exactly helpful. 

 

I was looking at a Mk I C&C 30, and noticed the "C&C Smile" on both sides of 
the keel. From what I've read, it's not a terrible problem. Certainty not a 
non-starter, walkway problem. 

 

But there's also a rust stain that looks like it starts above the keel joint. 
Anyone have any idea what this might be?  It's only on the port side, not 
starboard, although both sides have the smile. 

 

I haven't had a chance to look closely at the boat, just a walk-around outside 
without the owner. I hope to look at it closer this week, including interior 
and looking in the bilge, but thought I'd ask here first what people think. 
I've linked two pictures (port and starboard). 

 

Thanks in advance for any advice or insight,

 

Greg

 

Rusty port: https://photos.app.goo.gl/s7juWvBn86WozXAc9

Starboard: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pPdfCkc2mTs47ZXE9

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 37+forward hatch - Lewmar Ocean 70?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

The thickness of the “glass” (presumably plexi) depends on the hatch.  Best to 
measure, or seek info from the manufacturer (if still around).  If you order 
replacement plexi, be mindful of the specs of the manufacturer – there can be a 
range of thickness deemed acceptable by the manufacturer that may not be okay 
with you.  Regarding the adhesive/sealant, when I replaced the plexi in my 
hatches I took them to a shop that installs car windshields.  They used the 
same stuff on my hatches they use on cars, and I haven’t had a leak (roughly 10 
years).  Also, I replaced a deck “prism” window with the same plexi using the 
3M tape method often discussed on this list.  The silicone sealant is a Dow 
product as I recall, which provides for a greater working time without skinning 
over than the comparable GE product.  Someone on the list with better recall 
can provide the actual name.  I used it on all my windows and the deck “prism” 
plexi replacement.  No leaks in four years.

 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2021 11:46 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Stus-List 37+forward hatch - Lewmar Ocean 70?

 

The glass on my forward hatch is pretty badly crazed.  Recently I discovered 
that the hatch is also leaking around the glass to frame seal.  Two questions.  
What thickness is the glass?  What sealant is used to hold the glass to the 
frame?

 

 

Thanks

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 37+forward hatch - Lewmar Ocean 70?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Dow Corning 795.

 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2021 11:46 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Stus-List 37+forward hatch - Lewmar Ocean 70?

 

The glass on my forward hatch is pretty badly crazed.  Recently I discovered 
that the hatch is also leaking around the glass to frame seal.  Two questions.  
What thickness is the glass?  What sealant is used to hold the glass to the 
frame?

 

 

Thanks

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu