Re: Stus-List Mixed batteries

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Rich, is the relay via a the regulator to the start battery only in the case 
you have different type or size of battery or is there any advantage to add it 
with two lead-acid size 31, or any same size/type ? My alternator is wired to 
both 31 as my Guest chargepro 10 amp. Don't know if it adust output for each 
batt depending on state of charge.

 

I always start on 1 and then use 2 for instruments/house. Charging the two 
together without regulator, Am i toasting one battery here ?

 

I do have an isolator combiner.

 

I'm on a slip so shore power is available. no solar

 

Thanks.

 

Bruno Lachance

Becassine

33 mk II 87

Qc.

 

 

 


 

> Date: Mon, 5 May 2014 15:17:01 +
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Mixed batteries
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Richwrote:
> > I feed the alternator directly to the house battery and use a device such 
> > as a Xantrex EchoCharge, a small regulator, to keep the start battery 
> > charged.
> 
> That's how I wired mine. It works fine with both the alternator and 
> battery charger.
> 
> Wal
> 
> -- 
> s/v Stella Blue
> www.wbryant.com
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Seacocks

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

An other C&C 33 MKII had added a valve just under the head sink. I did the 
same, way more convenient than go under the setee to close the seacock when the 
boat is on its side. I close it before leaving the dock when i know it will be 
an epic ride.

 

I also maintain (grease) my seacocks and inspect my hose and collars on a 
regular basis, but dont close them anymore. I did it with my first boat and 
forgot to open the water intake a few times...the temp alarm goes on... Good, 
the alarm works.

 

Bruno

C&C 33mk II

Bécassine
 



Date: Mon, 26 May 2014 10:44:21 -0300
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Seacocks
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com


"I do have to close to seacock to the sink in the head when the wind is up."



Me too, quite a lot of water gets in when the rail is going under if I forget.


Ken H.
C&C 37XL



On 26 May 2014 10:37, coltrek via CnC-List  wrote:



Well, I guess I'm a bad seaman too. I have never closed my seacocks either. I 
just make sure that my hoses are good and the connections are sound. I could 
never remember to turn them on when I needed them. I'll take that back. I do 
have to close to seacock to the sink in the head when the wind is up. 



 Bill 
C&C 39




 Original message 
From: dwight via CnC-List 
Date:05/26/2014 5:18 AM (GMT-05:00) 
To: 'Jim Watts' ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Seacocks 



My C&C 35 MKII has 7 Groco bronze seacocks, each one placed in a very hard to 
reach space…since it is well known to be good seamanship to close all seacocks 
when leaving the boat I wonder why the designers did not make them a little 
more easily accessible and with longer handles too…I might be more inclined to 
use them if they were more accessible…however all 7 do move freely open to 
close, the surveyor confirmed that just last week
 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: May 26, 2014 2:07 AM
To: M Bod; 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List First sail
 

Either leave the engine seacock open, or hang the ignition key off the seacock 
handle. Me, I'm useless and we have a Yanmar, so I can start the engine with 
pretty much anything I have in my pocket including lint. I leave the seacock 
open. I know this makes me a bad person and I can live with that. 



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
 

On 25 May 2014 20:13, M Bod via CnC-List  wrote:

OK. Boat got off the dock today. After a bunch of engine work, new hoses and 
new fuel tank (all installed by mechanic) everything is supposed to be working 
smoothly.

Well. Getting off the dock was not so smooth. Couldn't sort out why roller 
furler was jamming for a bit.
Finally sorted the issue, started the engine, made sure all looked good 
(exhaust a little louder than I expected, but not bad).

Off we went (had a friend along to assist moving the boat from the marina to a 
nearby cove where it can stay an extra week).

10 min out I see some smoke riding through the companion way. Throttle down. 
Full off engine cowling. Coolant everywhere! Must have a leak.

We turn around to limp back to the dock. I'm looking at the mess with the 
coolant boiling over when I realize (OK remember mechanic warned me) the 
seacock for the engine is CLOSED!!!

Opened the seacock.  Everything cooled off. We had burned off much of our 
coolant - so I poured in a 1/2 litre water bottle. Kept the engine at low rpm 
and made the run to the cove.

Little hitch at the end.  Went to furl the jib but too much sail and not enough 
line on the furling drum. Only managed to pack away 2/3 of the sail. Solved 
that by doing 10 clockwise circles in the bay to wrap the sail around the 
forestay! Dirty, but it worked.
All told we survived. Feel like a royal idiot for forgetting the seacock. Had 
pretty good water shooting out of the muffler after - but I figure I better 
pull the impellor and check/replace it anyway.

I had checked the exhaust when we started - saw splashes. But later realized I 
was looking at the air exhaust hitting the water and causing a little splash.

Still a little shell shocked from the experience but thinking I'll likely 
remember the seacock in the future!

Mark
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ht

Re: Stus-List Cruising

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Ken,

 

I just noted that your boat (you) were participating in the Race the Cape 
event. It looks like a very fun and well organized regatta. Good luck for the 
race. I would like to go down there in the future and enter the race, but this 
project will have to wait unitl i can take enough vacation to go and then come 
back.

 

I see there is a 33 mkII registered too (Airways), would have been fun to race 
against a similar boat.

 

Bruno 

Bécassine

C&C 33 mkII

New-Richmond, Baie des chaleurs, Qc
 



Date: Thu, 29 May 2014 11:04:48 -0300
To: persuasio...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Mike, 


When you get near Cape Breton Island send me an email.


Ken H. & Anne T.
Salazar
C&C 37 XL
Sydney, NS (or the Bras d'Or Lakes)



On 29 May 2014 10:56, Persuasion via CnC-List  wrote:





Hi Stu
 
Just wanted to let the list know that this coming Sunday we (the Admiral and I) 
are leaving on an extended cruise.  We will be sailing down the St. Lawrence to 
spend the summer in the Maritimes (our home turf) then late summer early fall 
we’ll head south with our final destination in the Bahamas in early 2015.  In 
any one wishes to follow our blog they can access it here.  Also, track our 
progress here.  If anyone spots me along the way come over for a visit.
 
I would also like to thank you for your efforts and all of the support I have 
received from the list.
 
Would you please un-subscribe me for now.
 
Thanks
Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault (soon to be ???)
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Stus-List Northumberland strait Cruise

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi,

I will be leaving the Baie des chaleurs next saturday for a 3 weeks Cruise down 
the Northumberland strait with friends to bring the boat down the strait as 
much as we can (4 days). and then my girlfriend will join me for our vacations 
and we will be slowly going back home...

Any advices by listers on where to go, what to do, where to eat, and where NOT 
to go with my 6.4´ draft would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Bruno
Bécassine, 33mkII
New-Richmond. Qc.


Envoyé de mon iPad
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Re: Stus-List Northumberland strait Cruise

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Thanks Mike,

 

I heard good things on Ballantine's cove and Port Hawksbury. it's further east 
but is it worth the trip, easy to go to ? 

 

any other tips on where to go, visit are welcome!

 

Thanks, hope you enjoy your new boat. We just won a regatta (Round Caraquet 
island) last saturday. Superb conditions for us and a lot of fun. the first 
prize was a 15 years old bottle of El Dorado rhum, my kind of reward! Full tilt 
made 3rd behind a C&C 29 mkI.

 

Bruno

Bécassine 33MKII

 

 

 
 

> Subject: RE: Stus-List Northumberland strait Cruise
> Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 07:07:26 -0300
> From: mike.h...@impgroup.com
> To: bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Bruno
> 
> Summertime, pictou, shediac and Charlottetown are draft friendly. barrachois 
> is not. Bring swim trunks. Water is warm. A great anchorage is is Ames inside 
> saddle island on Malagasy point side
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List on behalf of Bruno Lachance via CnC-List
> Sent: Tue 22/07/2014 12:31 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com
> Subject: Stus-List Northumberland strait Cruise
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I will be leaving the Baie des chaleurs next saturday for a 3 weeks Cruise 
> down the Northumberland strait with friends to bring the boat down the strait 
> as much as we can (4 days). and then my girlfriend will join me for our 
> vacations and we will be slowly going back home...
> 
> Any advices by listers on where to go, what to do, where to eat, and where 
> NOT to go with my 6.4´ draft would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Bruno
> Bécassine, 33mkII
> New-Richmond. Qc.
> 
> 
> Envoyé de mon iPad
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Northumberland strait Cruise

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Excellent ressource for recent info and hints for our trip. Thanks Richard, i 
will take the time to go trough their blog. Their boat looks great to, love the 
37.

 

Bruno.
 



To: bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; mike.h...@impgroup.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Northumberland strait Cruise
From: bushma...@aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 10:40:23 -0400


Bruno; check in on the Persuasion blog; (just type in Persuasion 37 and you 
should find it) they have a 37 and just went through that area; they make note 
of several marinas and restaurants; Mike is on this list as well; his email is; 
persuasio...@gmail.com
 

Richard
1985 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 584

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list ; Bruno Lachance 
; mike.h...@impgroup.com 
Sent: Tue, Jul 22, 2014 10:33 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Northumberland strait Cruise




Thanks Mike,
 
I heard good things on Ballantine's cove and Port Hawksbury. it's further east 
but is it worth the trip, easy to go to ? 
 
any other tips on where to go, visit are welcome!
 
Thanks, hope you enjoy your new boat. We just won a regatta (Round Caraquet 
island) last saturday. Superb conditions for us and a lot of fun. the first 
prize was a 15 years old bottle of El Dorado rhum, my kind of reward! Full tilt 
made 3rd behind a C&C 29 mkI.
 
Bruno
Bécassine 33MKII
 
 
 
 

> Subject: RE: Stus-List Northumberland strait Cruise
> Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 07:07:26 -0300
> From: mike.h...@impgroup.com
> To: bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Bruno
> 
> Summertime, pictou, shediac and Charlottetown are draft friendly. barrachois 
> is not. Bring swim trunks. Water is warm. A great anchorage is is Ames inside 
> saddle island on Malagasy point side
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List on behalf of Bruno Lachance via CnC-List
> Sent: Tue 22/07/2014 12:31 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com
> Subject: Stus-List Northumberland strait Cruise
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I will be leaving the Baie des chaleurs next saturday for a 3 weeks Cruise 
> down the Northumberland strait with friends to bring the boat down the strait 
> as much as we can (4 days). and then my girlfriend will join me for our 
> vacations and we will be slowly going back home...
> 
> Any advices by listers on where to go, what to do, where to eat, and where 
> NOT to go with my 6.4´ draft would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Bruno
> Bécassine, 33mkII
> New-Richmond. Qc.
> 
> 
> Envoyé de mon iPad
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> at:
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> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi, i did this job last summer using 3M VHB tape. My boat is a '87 vintage 33 
MKII, with the split sharp angles ports.
 
Under the advice of don Casey, from Sail Magazine, i bought a roll of the 
following: "The tape to use is 3M VHB 4991, which is 2.3 millimeters thick. 
Select 1/2in width."
 
This is not excactly the same tape used by Boatworks today, wich is specified 
in the written presentation of the video, but i had enough space for 1/2 inch 
wide and the 3M 4991 had good technical specs that seems to fit the project. 
The tape is a bit thick and the window protrude juste a little bit more than 
before but it's still ok. I applied it the same way Boatwork does and it is 
easy. I did not found a way to buy the DOW 795 silicone from any source in 
Canada so i used SIKA product, the UV resistant one with a cheap "primer in a 
stick" sold by Boulet Lemelin, but not on their web site. the acrilyc is tinted 
and the tape does not show trough (no paint needed).
 
After a year of hard saling racing and twisting the boat,  everything looks 
good, BUT i did have a small leak in one corner at the end of the season that i 
am not able to pinpoint yet, everything seems firmly sealed. I guess the 
silicone would have been better... The tape is strong enough to hold the port 
in place even if the slithly curved shape of the cabintop. 
 
The ports were previously installed with butyl tape and screws. The 
installation was ok for few years until the corner screws stripped and the 
corners started to separate allowing water in. I decided to try the tape this 
time and plug the old holes with thickened epoxy. I had to sand old Plexus 
residues and fair the surface with époxy, sand and clean (acetone) and clean 
again (isopropyl alcool)...to have a good surface for the tape.
 
It can be a one person job, but it is not that easy to hold the window and 
stick it leveled with an even gap around. Remember these are no small ports, 
and mine are not even that big being sprit in the middle.  And i had to learn 
it the hard way...Yes i screwed it the first time. It slipped of my fingers 
and... too late, it was stuck on the tape! Shit!! I had to very quickly remove 
the acrilyc that was partly installed and begin all over again. Not easy to 
remove the tape but doable. I tried the match stick method to space the window 
but ended up feel the gap with my fingers and with luck it was a success! 
 
 See article:
http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/ask-sail/replacing-fixed-portlights/

 It is available in Canada from Uline.ca: 
http://www.uline.ca/BL_6074/3M-4991-VHB-Acrylic-Foam-Tape
 
I had to buy a 36 yds roll, not cheap.
 
Excuse my english! second language.
 
Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, '87 33 mkII
New-Richmond, Qc
 
 
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2015 09:40:05 -0500
To: robertabb...@eastlink.ca
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: dave.god...@me.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Rob,
Agreed. When thinking about the tape I did a quick Internet search and came up 
with many versions of the VHB tape. 
I use a software package (OmniFocus) for project planning and under the “Fixed 
Ports Repair” list of actions is a new one to investigate the types of adhesive 
in more detail. With a completion date a good ways in the future I’m afraid...
Best,Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit


On Nov 10, 2015, at 9:33 AM, robert  wrote:
  

  
  
Dave:



I am no VHB expert.have never used the stuff.  I understand
there are many different versions, at least that what I get from the
website below.  



http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/67100O/3mtm-vhb-tapes.pdf



Point being, make sure you get the right tape for the job you intend
to use it.



Rob Abbott

AZURA

C&C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-11-09 8:40 PM, Dave Godwin via
  CnC-List wrote:



  
  More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed ports
  on my boat over the last few days and and paying close attention.
  After absorbing a good bit of the info in the thread and the links
  provided, I’m planning on moving away from using Plexus ("if it
  was good enough for my grandfather it’s good enough for me!”) and
  using the 3M tape. Seems the more modern ticket to me.
  

  
  I’m anticipating the operation to be a good bit easy
than using Plexus, certainly if it is just one person doing the
job.
  

  
  Cheers,


  

  
Dave Godwin

  1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

  Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s
Overdue Refit



  

  



  
  

  On Nov 9, 2015, at 11:56 AM, Dennis C. via
CnC-List 
wrote:
   

Re: Stus-List Please trim your messages

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

I declare myself guilty for my last post. Sorry Stu.
 
Bruno.
 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2015 11:33:46 -0500
Subject: Stus-List Please trim your messages
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: s...@cncphotoalbum.com





Out of curiosity, I printed off a recent email and to my amazement it took 
4 pages.  The actual message was contained on the first page.  The 
second page contained previous messages which could have been trimmed.
 
The annoying fact is that the last 2 pages all contained multiple 
occurrences of:
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Re: Stus-List Lines led forward

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

My layout for club racing / cruising (C&C 33 mkII)
 
The boat came with double deck organizer, plenty of clutches and four winches 
at the pit (one Barient 21 ST, two 18, one 10)
 
Main, outaul, Cunningham, vang, first and second reef, jib and spin halyards 
and baby stay, are all led aft. 
 
BUT, i added a spinlock XTS on the mast for the main allowing me to easily 
hoist without messing with the lazyjacks and quickly hook the "reef bone" at 
the mast, tensioning the halyard and reef lines at pit afterward . I also added 
a Spinlock XAS (less tension) on the starboard side of the mast of spin halyard 
for a quick hoist and take down in light winds. I have the choice to leave the 
mast cluthes open to keep control of the halyards at the cockpit. Pole lift is 
at the mast too.
 
The lines aft allow me to easily and quickly adjust everything from the cockpit 
to tune the sails without having to run to the mast. i like this setup for 
racing and for cruising singlehanded.
 
Happy holidays everybody. Don't forget to wacht the Sydney Hobart start! :)
 
Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, '87 C&C 33 mkII
New-Richmond, Qc
 

 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2015 09:17:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lines led forward
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: colt...@verizon.net














MY layout – 

SB, Spinnaker and Jib halyard on mast, Main and Cunningham led
back to clutches.

Port, Spinnaker led back to clutch, also a cam cleat on mast.
Mostly bear away sets. Jib halyard at mast, rarely used. Main Outhaul, Vang, &
first reef also led back to cockpit.

As someone mentioned, mostly we use spinnakers in fairly light
air – and, at least in my experience, it is blowing like snot when you want to
take it down!  So, having the halyard back at the cockpit allows someone less
talented to handle the drop.

 



Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA



 





 









 









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Re: Stus-List Gooseneck fitting

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

I suggest check with Offshore spars, they are probably the manufacturer and 
have spare parts.

Bruno lachance
Becassine
33 mk II 87
New Richmond, Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 12 mars 2016 à 12:22, Alan Liles via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Preparing to remove my rig, I found the gooseneck fitting (toggle?) worn 
> around the vertical pin. Where might I source a new one. The boat is a '94 
> 37/40+. I'm not sure of the manufacturer. 
> On another note, is there a way to search subjects in the list archive? I'm 
> sure this has come up before but I haven't found a way to retrieve the 
> thread. 
> 
> Cheers, Al
> 
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Crack in Keel

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Lee,
 
I have the same boat and i would say this is right at the fiberglass keel stub 
/ lead keel junction. This is about where i have install a drain for my bilge 
when on the hard ;) so right at the bottom of the bilge. You can probably 
confirm this by tapping with a hammer (the lead does not sound like the stub)
 
It looks like your boat had a fiberglass tape to cover the keel join and that 
it has now cracked due to load and flex. I would not worry, just grind the 
area, let it drain and dry and redo part of the laminate with fiberglass and 
époxy. That's part of the maintenance overtime for this boat.
 
It may be a godd time to retork the keel bolts to spec too. But know that there 
is one under the mast.
 
You will love the boat, stiff and fast!
 
Good luck.
 
Bruno Lachance
Becassine, C&C 33 mkII 87
New-Richmond, Qc
 

 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 11:16:57 -0500
Subject: Stus-List Crack in Keel
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: rosenbau...@gmail.com

I have just purchased a 1985 C&C 33 MK-2 that has a small crack on the port 
side of the keel (see picture attached). The location looks to be lower than 
the normal Smile crack that develops.Looking for recommendations on how to 
repair.There is no delamination, but I do detect some moisture around the 
crack.  
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Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Doing the research about replacement/repair and different profiles of rudders i 
became quite obsessed with the importance of the design and precision of the 
profile (ref. NACA profiles).
 
So a DIY job was quickly out of question. The boat is not a 40 kts foiler but i 
do race the boat and wanted a nice rudder.
 
The small local yard quote was over 2500$ for a complete rebuild, that would 
have been very ok, but still an eyeball job. At this point i decided to go all 
the way crazy and give the job to the pros. Don't regret it, i almost cried 
when i opened the box it was so beutiful!
 
There is a lot of good info on their website, even a video of the fabrication 
process.
 
I have now a keel fairing job on my to do list, but not a priority at this 
point.
 
Bruno Lachance
C&C 33mkII 87' Bécassine
New-Richmond, Qc
 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2016 15:55:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: amira...@bellaliant.net





Thanks for the info about your rudder replacement,Bruno. Good company to 
keep in mind if I ever need to do mine.  Better to deal with a Canadian 
company with our dollar being so low right now.
 
Mike Amirault
C&C33ii Lovely Cruise
SMSC St Margarets Bay, NS

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Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

I had mine redone  last year for my 33 mkII by Competition composite, Ontario. 
They re used the post and fabricated a new one using the original plan form of 
the rudder from C&C (ordered at the maritime museum) . The shape was slightly 
optimized by their designer since the blade could be a bit thinner.
 
The construction is: Divinicell foam core shaped to the foil design with a 
"computer assisted milling machine" then wrapped with fiberglass and epoxy 
resin. (vacuum bagged). It is ligher than original. : 
http://www.fastcomposites.ca/site/
 
The construction seemed superior to me compared to "original" rudder sold by 
Southshore yacht and the price was lower including the shipping costs.
 
I'm very pleased with the result, the shape and finish is perfect and i have 
full confidence in the strenht of the blade. The feel at the helm is superb, i 
can see the difference with my older rudder than hab been repaired and had lost 
its symetrie. I d'ont feel any turbulence now. :)
 
So, a good experience on my side with the company. no affiliation.
 
Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII 87'
New Richmond, Qc.
 
 
 
 
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2016 12:22:16 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: dainyr...@icloud.com; biker...@yahoo.com

While not on a 37/40, I replaced my rudder a long time ago on my LF38.  
Southshore Yachts made it for me...
Bob

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer
On Mar 18, 2016, at 12:14 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List  
wrote:

Has anyone replace their rudder on a 37/40 with a different model/shape?Got a 
decent quote on a replacement which is not an exact copy. Weighing the pros and 
cons.
-- 
Brian FryS/V La Neige1993 C&C 37/40XLHdG Maryland


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Re: Stus-List 35-3 for sale in St Mary's City, MD

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

the 35 mkII has a LWL exactly 4 ft longer than the 33 mkII. Here is the answer 
in my opinion, as long as there is enough wind to push the heavier 35. in my 
expérience, everything else being equal, the 33 mkII or 35 mkIII do point 
higher. don't know about the CB...
The mk II has a surprisingly long LWL for the vintage, even longer than the 
mkIII and the Hull shape of the mk II slices the chop in an easier way, a 
définite plus in some conditions and probably more comfortable too.

All good design and nice well manered fastish boat i think.

but i absolutly love my 33 mk II, it's fast and gorgeous!

Bruno
Becassine, 33 mkII 87
New richmond, Qc.




Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2015-03-14 à 16:23, robert via CnC-List  a écrit :
> 
> Dennis:
> 
> Interesting observations on different boats and their performance on 
> different points of sail.  The listers should pay close attention to these 
> posts before they go 'hook up' on a fellow C&C sailor.
> 
> Some years back, we were campaigning a 1985 C&C 33 MKII with beautiful new 
> sails.  At a regatta in East Bay, in the Bras d'Or Lakes, Cape Breton 
> Island...we found ourselves racing against, among other boats, a well 
> sailed C&C 35 MKII from Shediac, New Brunswick.  
> 
> The 33 MKII would take the 35 MKII to weather/beat, every time, and point a 
> bit higher, but the 35MKII would take it all back on the reach and run.  The 
> course was an 8 mile beat, 2 mile reach, 8 mile run..we always lost a bit 
> on the reach, however, we were always overtaken, after being ahead of this 
> boat all race, about 3/4 of the way down the spin runand there wasn't a 
> darn thing we could do about it..it happened repeatedly.  And we knew how 
> to fly a spinnaker.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.  
> 
>> On 2015-03-14 1:35 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>> I raced my 35-1 against a 35-3 CB in a 100 mile distance race two years 
>> running.  First year was a 15 mile beat followed by 85 miles chute carry and 
>> broad reach.  The 35-3 beat us by about 10 minutes corrected.  They hung 
>> with us the entire race.
>> 
>> The second year was 15 miles close reaching and then 85 miles beating into 
>> 10-20 knots and 2-6 foot seas.  We beat the 35-3 CB by 2 1/2 hours.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List friends from list

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

ME too i am looking forward to meet some listers in Newport, RI. The best time 
would be during the VOR weekend (may 16-17). I'm a real fan and have wanted to 
asssist to an event like this for a very long time.
 
Ok that's bold, but i am really trying to find a way to be there for the 
occasion and i can tell you that there is not a lot of hotel rooms that i can 
afford available for that weekend. So...how cool would it be to "try to stay on 
a boat", and maybe even go on the water during the race.
 
So my wish is out there, if someone is willing to accomodate a friendly and 
easy going couple of sailors for the weekend, we are looking for options, but 
on a boat would be ideal. If you never ask you'll never know!
 
Please let me know off list and we can discuss arrangements.
 
I would never ask fo something like this on a forum...
 
Of course we don't have anything close to a VOR stop over here, but if someone 
is interested to come visit our place you are Welcome!
 
Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, C&C 33 mkII '87
New-Richmond, Qc.
 

 
To: capt...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2015 09:51:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List firends from list
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

I am looking forward to meeting a couple of the local listers who sail around 
the Newport, RI area. I find myself, when I see a C&C on the water looking to 
see if I know her from this list. I am relatively new to this list but find it 
to be interesting reading and valuable especially in light of my lack of real 
sailing experience or sailboat ownership. The banter can be revealing and 
pretty funny. That kind of intimacy would be difficult on a forum format.  
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2015 9:43 AM
To: CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List firends from list Good point, MikeFor instance, I found 
a pair of winches on Craigslist on the other end of the country.  The seller 
was reluctant to ship them to me.  A very kind lister was instrumental in 
obtaining them and shipping them to me.  I think the more personal nature of 
the email format helps that process.I also have met listers in my travels and 
asked listers for local information.  I'm not sure I'd be as comfortable on a 
personal basis with members of a forum.As always, listers are welcome to 
contact me when they are in the south Louisiana area.Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 
#83Mandeville, LA On Mon, Mar 16, 2015 at 7:40 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
 wrote:I have personally met several people who came 
from this list.  Also on the J27 Yahoo group with its email list I met a couple 
people.  I have never met a single person through any forum I have met and 
chatted with Bob Abbott and Rich Knowles because I knew their names and boats 
from the list   I have been on both of their boats I have had many email 
conversations with Harry Hallgring and he even did a visual inspection of my 
current boat while I was in the process of purchasing it.  Our paths did not 
cross in New Bedford, Mass unfortunately due to time constraints but I do 
consider many on this list to be friends. Forums have to be checked.  Lists 
come to you.  Many of us prefer the messages coming to us rather than going to 
look.  Also like many others I do use forums like sailnet as well but not very 
often anymore. So I guess to me LIST = FRIENDS = COMMUNITY.  Forum = Impersonal 
and anonymity.   MikeList Troll 
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Re: Stus-List halyard stoppers

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Brad,

The clutches on my boat (33mkII 1987) are Easylock i think, the model that kind 
of look like a lewmar, with long levers of different colours... they do work 
with a 3/8 Line but tend to slip a little with main and jib halyards. it might 
be wear, but this up grade is on the list. i will go with a Spinlock XTS 
tripple to replace one of the bank. A Rigger told me that spinlocks were a bit 
more rough on lines but had more bite than the Lewmar.

Bruno
Becassine
33mkII
new richmond, Qc


Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2015-03-22 à 07:13, Paul Fountain via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Brad,
> 
> Perception had Schaffer stoppers on her when we got her (85 C&C 33-II K/CB). 
> They were chewing the new running rigging very quickly - at the 
> recommendation of our sailmaker we replaced them with lewmars.
> 
> The lewmars need to be sized right for your lines, they have smaller ranges 
> than most stoppers, but work well, and release easily under load.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 21, 2015, at 9:42 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Replacing the original 7/16 halyards on our 1985 C&C 33 MKII. Got a GOOD 
>> price on some 3/8 Warpspeed from W.M. Does anyone know what brand/size of 
>> halyard clutches  C&C used in '85? There is a set of double Schaefer 
>> clutches mounted outboard of the original triples, either side of the 
>> companionway, pictures I have aren't good enough to identify them and the 
>> boat is 3 hrs from here.
>> Thanks
>> Brad
>> Sarnia ON
>> 1985 C&C 33 "Pulse"
>> 
>> Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
>> from my iPad!
> 
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Re: Stus-List halyard stoppers

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

You Guys have some strong comments about the Lewmar D2. I was skeptical because 
of one comment i had from a rigger that i respect a lot, even if he does not 
have a C&C, but a first 42 is a pretty nice boat too. He was a Lewmar winch fan 
but a Spinlock clutches lover saying there is no point to be easier on the rope 
if it does not hold it! My own expérience is good with both brands. 

but it seems unanimous and i think i will go with the lewmar D2. should be a 
nice upgrade over the easylock.

Thanks for the comments.

Bruno
Becassine, 33mkII
New richmond, Qc.

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2015-03-22 à 12:09, Josh Muckley  a écrit :
> 
> Bruno, take a look at the lewmar D2 clutches before you make a final 
> decision.  They have a unique series of plates which the rope runs through 
> perpendicular.  The clutch handle tilts the plates to pinch the rope.
> 
> Something to consider.
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Mar 22, 2015 10:48 AM, "Bruno Lachance via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> Brad,
>> 
>> The clutches on my boat (33mkII 1987) are Easylock i think, the model that 
>> kind of look like a lewmar, with long levers of different colours... they do 
>> work with a 3/8 Line but tend to slip a little with main and jib halyards. 
>> it might be wear, but this up grade is on the list. i will go with a 
>> Spinlock XTS tripple to replace one of the bank. A Rigger told me that 
>> spinlocks were a bit more rough on lines but had more bite than the Lewmar.
>> 
>> Bruno
>> Becassine
>> 33mkII
>> new richmond, Qc
>> 
>> 
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Stus-List PSS shaft seal 33 mkII

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi all,
 
I'm about o buy a PSS shaft seal for my 33 mkII and i'm having a slight 
hesitation about the clearance. I'm not sure of the total lenght between the 
stern tube and the transmission and how long the PSS will "overlap" the stern 
tube?
 
I will also replace shaft and coupling so i might be able to go with a shorter 
coupling if necessary but i would really like to be reassure on this before i 
pull the trigger. I would also like to add a SS collar sold by PYI to secure 
the shaft but it would probably not fit? right?
 
Advices on the PSS project are also welcome.
 
Bruno Lachance
Bécassine
33 mkII '87
New-Richmond, Qc
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Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal 33 mkII

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Nice pictures of the setup. Mine is quite different because the stuffing box is 
not the same, and i think my hose was longer than that and this may explain my 
fear of not having enough space. 
 
But an other lister, Paul Fountain which owns a 33 mkII, did this upgrade 12 
years ago and confirms that it fits, so i should be ok.
 
And as you said i will try to bring the venting line as high as possible, i 
heard of that one before and of course i will by all means pay attention "not 
to create a  situation that could sink your boat" That last one always applies! 
but it's good to have a refresh. ;-)
 
Thanks Marek!
 
Bruno
 

 
From: dziedzi...@hotmail.com
To: bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal 33 mkII
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 13:05:59 -0400







I think you need about 1” (3 cm) between your old stuffing box and the 
coupler (if I remember correctly).
 
I posted a few pics from before and after. I had just enough room to put 
the retention collar in: 
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8tlcy5k0rwf4dzc/AAA7LXt-UzZJn3F5o7h4n2ENa?dl=0. 
For comparison, the shaft is 1”.
 
As you can see form some of the pics, I put some paper towels around, right 
after installation. I recommend you do, too. For the first half hour, you might 
see a bit of carbon dust from the bearing as it runs itself in. A pain to clean 
up after. Btw. the clear plastic hose (fuel line) is not recommended as the 
vent 
line going through the engine bay.
 
One more thing – the venting hose burps water! You have to run it high 
enough to have the end above the water line (and you might be surprised how 
high 
it is). But almost regardless how high and long your venting line is, it will 
eventually burp. this happens mainly, when you switch forward and reverse in 
quick succession (like when you dock). Two options I know of are: install a 
water bottle at the end of that line and empty it occasionally or plumb the 
line 
into some drain (e.g. sink) paying all kinds of attention not to create a 
situation that could sink your boat.
 
Marek


 

From: Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 12:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Bruno 
Lachance 
Subject: Stus-List PSS shaft seal 33 mkII
 

Hi all,
 
I'm about o buy a PSS shaft seal for my 33 
mkII and i'm having a slight hesitation about the clearance. I'm not sure of 
the 
total lenght between the stern tube and the transmission and how long the PSS 
will "overlap" the stern tube?
 
I will also replace shaft and 
coupling so i might be able to go with a shorter coupling if necessary but i 
would really like to be reassure on this before i pull the trigger. I would 
also 
like to add a SS collar sold by PYI to secure the shaft but it would probably 
not fit? right?
 
Advices on the PSS project are also 
welcome.
 
Bruno Lachance
Bécassine
33 mkII 
'87
New-Richmond, Qc



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Re: Stus-List Mast on c&c 33 MKII

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

On the 33 mkII, mast were inhouse c&c designed profiles from 1985 to 86. Then
Offshore Spar supplied the mast and boom for 1987-88 vintage. The Offshore is a 
Very upgrade, one of the reason why i was specifically looking for an '87 33.

Bruno Lachance
Becassine
C&C 33 mk II 1987
New Richmond, Qc.

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2015-05-13 à 08:11, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List  
> a écrit :
> 
> My 1986 mast is labeled, "designed by C&C", but manufactured by Cinkel, which 
> is long out of business. 
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> 
> 
>> On 5/13/2015 6:57 AM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List wrote:
>> I've tried a search and am unable to find the manufacturer of the mast on my 
>> 1985 cnc 33 MKII, need to order new guides for the spin pole car as one is 
>> broken, any ideas?
>> Thanx
>> Brad
>> C & C 33 "Pulse"
>> Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
>> from my iPad!
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
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>> 
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Kanzaki KBW10 Transmission Leakage

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

I'm doing the same thing, check this link:
http://www.tartan3500.com/uploads/3/1/1/9/3119926/replacetransmissionseal.pdf

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
Date: Fri, 15 May 2015 11:23:21 -0700
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Kanzaki KBW10 Transmission Leakage
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: russ...@telus.net



Hi Brad,


I did this on my 2QM20 with Kanzaki gearbox. 


Output flange removal can be difficult because of the tight space and if
I remember correctly there is a locking tab that gets pushed out of the
way before trying to remove nut. 

I had to do it at sea once (off Pachena Point, rolling sea, long story).
To secure the output flange I passed a long bolt through the gearbox side
coupling half and jammed a pry bar between bolt and hub so it will bear
against the hull when breaking free the nut. 

You need to move the prop shaft aft enough for the above to work, of
course. 


Cheers,
Russ

Sweet
35 mk-1


At 07:56 AM 15/05/2015, you wrote:




Maybe this has been asked or
covered before?  Has anyone experienced transmission fluid leaking
from the rear of their transmission?  I suspect it is a rear seal
that has worn or gone bad.  Were you able to have the seal replaced
with the transmission in the boat or did you have to remove the
transmission?

 

Wondering what I am in for,

 

Brad

Dora Pearl

C&C 36

Seattle


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Re: Stus-List Looking for prop shaft for '85 33 MkII

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

I had a new prop shaft made recently by this shop in Ontario. Here is the 
quotation details and contact info. The lenght could be maybe 1/2 inch shorter 
but i wanted to be sure and i was also getting a new split coupling wich i 
highly recommand.
 
---
 
We are pleased to offer you the following quotation.  Pricing below is F.O.B. 
Orillia and applicable taxes would be additional.
 QTYDESCRIPTION 
 PRICE1 1 x 
43” AQ-19 Propeller Shaft, complete with nuts, keys and cotterpin 
$392.001 50400YS Clamp-Fit Coupling 
   $146.001 Fit and 
Face the coupling to the shaft  
  $110.00 We currently have a lead time of approximately 2-4 
days to complete the above.  We strongly suggest that the coupling be fitted 
and faced to the shaft.  We also pin the keyways on both ends of the shafts so 
that the keyways does not move.  This is all included in the fitting and facing 
charge. We have customers all over and frequently ship marine related items via 
courier to the east coast and all over Canada.  We ship the shafting in a 
sleeve on a 2 x 4” board and then the coupling would be in a separate box.
Kathy DepatieUnited Propeller and Machine Inc.220 James Street WestOrillia, ON  
L3V 6H1 CanadaTelephone: (705) 325-2736Fax: (705) 325-6334email: 
kathy...@bellnet.ca
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2015 11:25:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking for prop shaft for '85 33 MkII
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: j...@jrfarrar.com

Erie, PA  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jim Watts via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2015 11:25 AM
To: 1 CnC List 
Cc: Jim Watts 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking for prop shaft for '85 33 MkII Whereabouts are 
you? Hard to recommend a source otherwise...Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC On 5 August 2015 at 07:08, J.R. Farrar via CnC-List 
 wrote: Bumped into a log this weekend and bent the prop 
shaft (and damaged the prop).  Anyone know where I can find a replacement or at 
least the specs/length without having to pull it from the boat first?  I had an 
old prop that I put on and dropped her back in the water.  It’s good enough to 
get me out of the marina and back to go sailing but I’d like to get one on 
order and replaced asap. Thanks!J.R. Farrar
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Re: Stus-List Looking for prop shaft for '85 33 MkII

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Yes it is.
 
You will find below the email i sent them to begin with the measurements i had. 
 
I recommend to get a new coupling that will be faced and fitted to limit 
vibration and go with the split coupling to facilitate disasembly if required 
later. They sell the buck Algonquin coupling. Here is the info i sent when 
asking for a quote. they then ask me more measurements to confirm the tapered 
lenght and diameter of it. they also ask about my prop hub (Flexofold) to be 
sure everything was ok. Finally it was a standard North american standard SAE...
 
  
"I am looking for a reputable shop that could make a quality shaft for my 
sailboat. I need a new shaft that is 1 inch diameter and 43 inches long (tip to 
tip) or 43.75 with the coupling installed. I need a standard tappered end for 
the prop (1/4 keyway), ithink the standard is called: SAE spécifications. There 
is a recess of 5/8 from the end of the bore to the top of the male lip on the 
face of the coupling. the thread lenght is 1 1/4 inch."

 Bruno LachanceBécassine, C&C mkII 1987New-Richmond, Qc
 Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2015 13:30:15 -0400
Subject: RE: Stus-List Looking for prop shaft for '85 33 MkII
From: j...@jrfarrar.com
To: bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com

Bruno was that for a 33 mk2? If so,  thank you! You are a life saver! 



 Original message 
From: Bruno Lachance  
Date: 08/05/2015  12:39 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "J.R. Farrar"  
Subject: RE: Stus-List Looking for prop shaft for '85 33 MkII 

I had a new prop shaft made recently by this shop in Ontario. Here is the 
quotation details and contact info. The lenght could be maybe 1/2 inch shorter 
but i wanted to be sure and i was also getting a new split coupling wich i 
highly recommand.
 
---
 
We are pleased to offer you the following quotation.  Pricing below is F.O.B. 
Orillia and applicable taxes would be additional.
 QTYDESCRIPTION 
 PRICE1 1 x 
43” AQ-19 Propeller Shaft, complete with nuts, keys and cotterpin 
$392.001 50400YS Clamp-Fit Coupling 
   $146.001 Fit and 
Face the coupling to the shaft  
  $110.00 We currently have a lead time of approximately 2-4 
days to complete the above.  We strongly suggest that the coupling be fitted 
and faced to the shaft.  We also pin the keyways on both ends of the shafts so 
that the keyways does not move.  This is all included in the fitting and facing 
charge. We have customers all over and frequently ship marine related items via 
courier to the east coast and all over Canada.  We ship the shafting in a 
sleeve on a 2 x 4” board and then the coupling would be in a separate box.
Kathy DepatieUnited Propeller and Machine Inc.220 James Street WestOrillia, ON  
L3V 6H1 CanadaTelephone: (705) 325-2736Fax: (705) 325-6334email: 
kathy...@bellnet.ca
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2015 11:25:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking for prop shaft for '85 33 MkII
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: j...@jrfarrar.com

Erie, PA  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jim Watts via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2015 11:25 AM
To: 1 CnC List 
Cc: Jim Watts 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking for prop shaft for '85 33 MkII Whereabouts are 
you? Hard to recommend a source otherwise...Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC On 5 August 2015 at 07:08, J.R. Farrar via CnC-List 
 wrote: Bumped into a log this weekend and bent the prop 
shaft (and damaged the prop).  Anyone know where I can find a replacement or at 
least the specs/length without having to pull it from the boat first?  I had an 
old prop that I put on and dropped her back in the water.  It’s good enough to 
get me out of the marina and back to go sailing but I’d like to get one on 
order and replaced asap. Thanks!J.R. Farrar
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Stus-List Off topic-Newport boat show 2015

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi all, I'm throwing a line here and I'm looking for local knowledge of the 
Newport area.

Me and my girlfriend are looking to go at the Newport boat show and are looking 
for accommodation. We are open to camping (tent) but is it a good idea? We 
found the Melville pounds campground in Porthsmouth. Will the drive be like 
really bad? Any comments please.

airbnb has some closer options but nothing under 150$ a night for a room in an 
apartment closer to the show... Higher price but maybe it's the way to go to 
enjoy our stay?

Thanks for your help local "cncciers"

Bruno Lachance
87 c&c 33 mkII
Bécassine
new Richmond, Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad
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Re: Stus-List Off topic-Newport boat show 2015

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Thanks for the replies and keep them running if you got an idea or a plan for 
us. 
 
We would like to stay close to town to be able to just go walk around and dont 
spend to much time in the car. We will keep looking, Airbnb has some good 
offers and the Melvill campgroud is still an option so we have more money in 
our pockets to spend at the show and eating out. It's nice to know that there 
will be some parking and shuttle buses, i will try to learn more about the 
location of those.
 
I have to confess that my absolute best would be to be able to stay / camp on a 
boat at a dock close by. Any idea if a lister or other poeple would be willing 
to rent their boat for few nights. That could be more boat bucks in your 
Pocket, i dont know what to offer but something  like around 250$ plus a bottle 
of something good to start talking (17-20 sept)! We are not looking for luxury, 
and asking no more than just a place to sleep with our sleeping bags. Obviously 
would leave the place as we found it (leave no trace!)
 
But i kind of understand that most boats seem to be on a mooring and less 
accessible for us.
 
thanks for the help.
 
Bruno Lachance
87 C&C 33 mkII, Bécassine
New-Richmond, Qc
 
 
 

 
> Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2015 10:40:22 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Off topic-Newport boat show 2015
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: a.burton.sai...@gmail.com
> 
> Personally,  I soul be closer to town. Npt. HaS lotsa more to offers than 
> just the show.
> 
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
> > On Aug 20, 2015, at 10:03, John Russo via CnC-List  
> > wrote:
> > 
> > There  is a parking lot for  the show and shuttle from the parking lot in 
> > Newport at the beach just past the  show. If I remember correctly it is $15 
> > for the day including shuttle.
> > 
> > John
> > Arpeggio 32
> > Norwalk. CT 
> > 
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo 
> > via CnC-List
> > Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2015 8:58 AM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: Indigo
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Off topic-Newport boat show 2015
> > 
> > I have stayed several times at the Best Western in West Greenwich but only 
> > in May.  The drive from there isn't bad over the Jamestown bridges - from 
> > memory +/- 35 minutes - but don't hold me to that
> > 
> > I presume there are parking lots for the boat show with shuttle buses. 
> > 
> > --
> > Jonathan
> > Indigo C&C 35III
> > SOUTHPORT CT
> > 
> >> On Aug 19, 2015, at 21:47, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
> >>  wrote:
> >> 
> >> Hi all, I'm throwing a line here and I'm looking for local knowledge of 
> >> the Newport area.
> >> 
> >> Me and my girlfriend are looking to go at the Newport boat show and are 
> >> looking for accommodation. We are open to camping (tent) but is it a good 
> >> idea? We found the Melville pounds campground in Porthsmouth. Will the 
> >> drive be like really bad? Any comments please.
> >> 
> >> airbnb has some closer options but nothing under 150$ a night for a room 
> >> in an apartment closer to the show... Higher price but maybe it's the way 
> >> to go to enjoy our stay?
> >> 
> >> Thanks for your help local "cncciers"
> >> 
> >> Bruno Lachance
> >> 87 c&c 33 mkII
> >> Bécassine
> >> new Richmond, Qc
> >> 
> >> Envoyé de mon iPad
> >> ___
> >> 
> >> Email address:
> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> >> bottom of page at:
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> > 
> > 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37 question

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

I find the 37 to be a very attractive boat, same hull lines as the 35mkIII and 
the 29 mkII. Very well balanced. Same with the 33 mkII and the 41 and 44, all 
in the same family of hulls. and the 40 would be with the 34 I would think?

I've always found the 38 mkIII to have a bit too much volume (round belly) at 
the beam, but still a nice looking boat.

I have spent so much time reading the different brochures on the cncphotoalbum 
comparing boats,but it' been a while now.

Bruno Lachance
Becassine, 33mkII, former 29mkII owner.
new Richmond, Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2015-09-02 à 23:10, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Andy,
> 
> Would you say that the 37 is more like the 40?  It appears so in the interior 
> and deck layouts on sailboatdata.com.  It seems that they are from the same 
> era and product line.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Sep 2, 2015 10:42 PM, "Andrew Burton via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> The 37 has a very different hull shape from the 38s. She is shorter in the 
>> ends, and has a little less spring to the sheer and a bit more freeboard, 
>> though still a very attractive boat. Underwater she concedes a lot less to 
>> the IOR, with a very fair hull shape and only a little bustle aft by the 
>> rudder. In plan form the stern is much less "pinched" that the 38.
>> 
>> Andy
>> C&C 40
>> Peregrine
>> 
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett
>> Newport, RI 
>> USA02840
>> 
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> +401 965-5260
>> 
>>> On Sep 2, 2015, at 21:31, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Interesting question.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I took a cursory look at the data on Sailboatdata.com and only see one 
>>> model 37, available as std, CB, and SD models. Then there is a listing for 
>>> a 37-2 and the 37/40, but both of these are 39.5 feet long.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> But I got curious when I looked at the rig and interior layout drawings for 
>>> the 37. The interior layout appears to be the same as my 38-2, and the only 
>>> difference in appearance is the front of the coach house on the 37 has a 
>>> flat face (like a LF38, which went into production at the same time as the 
>>> 37), where the coach house on the 38-2 tapers into the foredeck. And the 
>>> production on the 37 started just when the 38-2 stopped.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> So here is a bit of data:
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Model LOA   Production
>>> 
>>> 38-1 37.5873-75
>>> 
>>> 38-2 37.5875-80?
>>> 
>>> 37 S/CB/SD37.5881-86
>>> 
>>> 38-3 S/CB/SD/WK 37.5585-?
>>> 
>>> 37-2 S/CB/SD/WK 39.5088
>>> 
>>> 37/40 +/R/XL 39.5088/89
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Looking at brochures on the Photo Album, the 37 has some amenities the 38 
>>> doesn’t like an anchor locker. And the deck has styling similar to the 
>>> 35-3, 38-3, and the 37/40 series with the glued in portlights and recesses 
>>> in the cabin sides aft of the portlights. The interior, however is 
>>> virtually identical to the 38-2.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I’m wondering if the 37 was a transitional model – sort of a 38 mk2.5 – 
>>> that bridged the transition to the hull shapes and interior layouts you 
>>> find in the later boats like the 38-3 and the 37/40+/R/XL. Can anyone 
>>> confirm my hypothesis?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Rick Brass
>>> 
>>> Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2
>>> 
>>> la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1
>>> 
>>> Washington, NC
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della 
>>> Barba, Joe via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 3:40 PM
>>> To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
>>> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
>>> Subject: Stus-List C&C 37 question
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Curious:
>>> 
>>> How many types of C&C 37s are there?
>>> 
>>> Joe
>>> 
>>> Coquina
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> 
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Stus-List info on C&C 37 for sale in NS, cnd

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi,
 
A friend of mine is looking for info on a C&C 37 for sale in Nova Scotia by 
Ocean yacht sales.
 
Does anyone know something about this particular boat, good or bad ? the seller 
looks motivated to sell.
 
Thanks.
 
Bruno Lachance
C&C 33 mkII, Bécassine
New-Richmond, Qc
 
see: 
http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_full_detail.jsp?slim=broker&boat_id=2869713&ybw=&hosturl=oceanyachtsales&&ywo=oceanyachtsales&&units=Feet&access=Public&listing_id=1549&url=&hosturl=oceanyachtsales&&ywo=oceanyachtsales&;
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Re: Stus-List info on C&C 37 for sale in NS, cnd

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Rob,

Maybe they were testing everything is fine. My friend is supposed to go on a 
sea trial today or tomorrow. do you know if the boat has had a solid grounding 
before or other damage worth knowing about?

the 37 is for sure a désirable boat in my book.

Bruno lachance 
Becassine, 33mkII-87
New Richmond,Qc 

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2015-09-26 à 10:15, robert via CnC-List  a écrit :
> 
> Jeff:
> 
> This boat is at the RNSYS.it's in the mooring field on B11 about 300 feet 
> from me..I'm on C15.
> 
> Don't know the owner.he appears to be young.I see him on board once 
> in awhile but not often.the boat isn't used very much which maybe 
> explains why it is for sale.  They had it out for a short sail 
> yesterdayfull main and a 135%.
> 
> The boat looks to be fine condition when I pass it on the water..I could 
> definitely be happy being its owner.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA 
> C&C32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
>> On 2015-09-26 9:10 AM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
>> Looks like it's from Armdale Yacht Club.  I'll poke around there tomorrow to 
>> see what I can find out.
>> 
>>> On 9/25/2015 6:01 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List wrote:
>>> Hi,
>>>  
>>> A friend of mine is looking for info on a C&C 37 for sale in Nova Scotia by 
>>> Ocean yacht sales.
>>>  
>>> Does anyone know something about this particular boat, good or bad ? the 
>>> seller looks motivated to sell.
>>>  
>>> Thanks.
>>>  
>>> Bruno Lachance
>>> C&C 33 mkII, Bécassine
>>> New-Richmond, Qc
>>>  
>>> see: 
>>> http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_full_detail.jsp?slim=broker&boat_id=2869713&ybw=&hosturl=oceanyachtsales&&ywo=oceanyachtsales&&units=Feet&access=Public&listing_id=1549&url=&hosturl=oceanyachtsales&&ywo=oceanyachtsales&;
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
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>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
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>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Cheers,
>> Jeff Nelson
>> Muir Caileag
>> C&C 30
>> Armdale Y.C.
>> Halifax
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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Stus-List Backstay aduster

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi all,

 

I sent my navtec backstay for a rebuild at Southshore and it seems the over 25 
years thing is dammaged (scratch on pump cylinder, not fixable, it still 
leaks). I'm looking at options and the two on the list are: replace it by the 
exact same thing (Navtec) or screw hydrolic and go with the mechanical option. 
Would be a Wichard product, the one with a ratchet or handle with no ratchet, 
not the wheel.

 

any opinions on that decision would be appreciated regarding reliability and 
performance (i like to play with that toy!) would a mechanical be too slow to 
adjust?

 

Thanks

 

Bruno Lachance

C&C 33 mkII

Becassine

 

 


 



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Re: Stus-List Backstay aduster

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

The 33 is not split backstay, maybe some late models have them but not mine. 

 

I can not beleive there is not a better reliable system on the market. anybody 
with direct experience of the Wichard mechanical wiht ratchet ? i don't even 
know if the handle pumps up and down or rotates with some sort of relief system 
hence the ratchet ??? same question about power, but the numbers indicate it 
would be more than appropriate for my boat.

 

I'm worried to dump more money into hydrolic and be a the same point in a year 
or two. Worse case scenario i lost the rig, i had to jury something this summer 
offshore in 25 knots plus when the thing blew on my transom. not fun at all. i 
bought a spare turnbucle after that one and went on with my vacations.

 

thanks for inputs

 

Bruno Lachance

C&C 33 mkII

Becassine
 



Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2014 16:45:20 -0400
To: kevindrisc...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Backstay aduster
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com



My 2 cents:I don't think the 33 is a split backstay.  The cost to split it and 
install new chain plates would probably exceed the cost of a hydraulic unit.
With a masthead rig I would want more power than you can get with a manual 
adjuster.




Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Wed, Oct 8, 2014 at 4:33 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I second the split back with tackle/cam cleat apparatus suggestion. I race a 
bit with it and Find it straight forward and quick adjusting. Pretty direct 
feedback on rig tension.
KD



On October 8, 2014, at 1:13PM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote:




For a 33 you may want to consider one of the fittings that ride on a split 
backstay from Johnson.  Not nearly as eloquent but effective and probably the 
best value.


John



On Oct 8, 2014, at 4:06 PM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
 wrote:


If you race your boat you will find the mechanical back stay adjuster to be a 
complete PITA.


I have a stainless steel Barient back stay adjuster (5/8" pins and uses a winch 
handle to adjust) that came with my boat back in 1975 to be used in case the 
original Meriman hydraulic adjusters failed. It did indeed fail and we rigged 
the Barient and it took all that one could do to crank in enough tension just 
to straighten the mast 



Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY
C&C 39 TM







On Wed, Oct 8, 2014 at 3:12 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Hi all,
 
I sent my navtec backstay for a rebuild at Southshore and it seems the over 25 
years thing is dammaged (scratch on pump cylinder, not fixable, it still 
leaks). I'm looking at options and the two on the list are: replace it by the 
exact same thing (Navtec) or screw hydrolic and go with the mechanical option. 
Would be a Wichard product, the one with a ratchet or handle with no ratchet, 
not the wheel.
 
any opinions on that decision would be appreciated regarding reliability and 
performance (i like to play with that toy!) would a mechanical be too slow to 
adjust?
 
Thanks
 
Bruno Lachance
C&C 33 mkII
Becassine
 
 

 




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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 
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Re: Stus-List Backstay aduster

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

ok, the sailtec unit seems like a good choice, cheaper than the Harken and i 
think the lenght should allow a direct replacement for my old navtec. The 
harken is way longer and the backstay would have to be shorten, an other 250$ 
at southshore and a lot of trouble... No thanks.

I think the power and ease of use of the hydrolic wins. if i had a split 
backstay on a smaller boat  i would definatly go for a cascade with good blocks 
and hi tech ropes.

Thanks to the group.

Bruno
c&C 33 mkII
Becassine




Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2014-10-08 à 19:18, Ron Casciato via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Another vote for Sailtec from me………replaced my 1977’vintage Navtec 2 years 
> ago………repaired the Navtec 3 times at about $600 each.  Barely paid more than 
> that for the new Sailtec and it has worked nicely.  Split backstay rigs work 
> nicely on smaller boats with flexible masts……….think S27.9 e.g. but for the 
> Standard C&C telephone pole mast………you’ll need more oomph.
>  
> Ron C.
> Impromptu C&C 38MKIIC……..’77
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
> DeYoung via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2014 5:51 PM
> To: Bill Coleman; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Backstay aduster
>  
> I also recommend Sailtec.  Calypso has had Sailtec backstay and baby stay 
> hydraulic cylinders for over 20 years.  I recently had new seals put in the 
> backstay by the local (Seattle area) guy recommended by Sailtec.  It cost 
> $400 and should keep the backstay adjuster in business for the next 10 years.
>  
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
> 
> 
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill 
> Coleman via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2014 2:28 PM
> To: 'Bruno Lachance'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Backstay aduster
>  
> My 39 had a Sailtec installed by the PO.
> No problems from when he bought it in early 90’s till now. I like it.
> http://www.sailtec.com/products/hydraulic-integral-adjusters.html
>  
> I think the Harken is nice too, supposedly it pumps both ways.
> Not that there is anything wrong with that.
>  
> Regards,
>  
> Bill
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno 
> Lachance via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2014 5:15 PM
> To: Joel Aronson; Kevin Driscoll; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Backstay aduster
>  
> The 33 is not split backstay, maybe some late models have them but not mine. 
>  
> I can not beleive there is not a better reliable system on the market. 
> anybody with direct experience of the Wichard mechanical wiht ratchet ? i 
> don't even know if the handle pumps up and down or rotates with some sort of 
> relief system hence the ratchet ??? same question about power, but the 
> numbers indicate it would be more than appropriate for my boat.
>  
> I'm worried to dump more money into hydrolic and be a the same point in a 
> year or two. Worse case scenario i lost the rig, i had to jury something this 
> summer offshore in 25 knots plus when the thing blew on my transom. not fun 
> at all. i bought a spare turnbucle after that one and went on with my 
> vacations.
>  
> thanks for inputs
>  
> Bruno Lachance
> C&C 33 mkII
> Becassine
> 
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Re: Stus-List Back stay adjuster repair, NOT by Navtec

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

this one did not go trouhg So i trimmed the old post


I did not know that the backstay subject would have so much interest. In my 
case my first idea was to go to a general hydro shop in Quebec, i heard before 
that i did not have to absolutely send the unit only to navtec. But when i ask 
around nobody could recommend any shop so i decided to go for the "appoved 
service center" with a good reputation and convince me it was all in the name 
of safety. That this 400$ would be a good invesment if i could have 10 more 
years out of the unit... the guy on the phone alos told me it was the best 
decision.
 
Good plan, but then the unit failed short after, i sent it back (an other 80$ 
of shipping)... and it still leaks a bit and the gauge has been damaged by the 
shipping company on its way back what a nightmare...the service center 
offers me to sent it back again and will fix it no charge...for an other 80$ of 
shipping... 
 
My final decision is that i will send it back again, but will then put it for 
sale. If i'm lucky i will get back my 600 $ of invesment and make a wednesday 
night racer happy. But for me my confidence is at it's lowest and i need to 
have a reliable unit so i can go offshore for long knowing i can trust my rig. 
So i have a rebuild navtec with a new gauge for sale!
 
As for the split ideas, i would love to have that setup, or have a 34+ like 
François...;)  i had a similar setup with my previous C&C 29 mkII and it was 
very simple and effective. But i'm not welling to do the modification 
(chainplates, bimini mod, etc...)and the single backstay on the 33 is not at 
all in the way (very low on the transom). In fact i think a split would bother 
me more helming from the sides.
 
Long story short, i'll try to get my cash back and buy a new sailtec.
 
Thanks!
 
Bruno Lachance
C&C 33 mkII
Becassine
 

 
> Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2014 09:30:09 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Back stay adjuster repair, NOT by Navtec
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> I too went thru Navtec for a leak without success, took mine to local tractor 
> dealer, fixed the first time 5 years ago, still no leaks or problems. Contact 
> me off list if anyone wants address phone number. Navtec charged me $ 300 
> plus and did not fix, my local guy $ 75 and still going strong
> 
> Barry Miller,
> Miller Time, C&C 34
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Back stay adjuster repair, NOT by Navtec

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Joel, its an integral unit, no panel.

Bruno


Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2014-10-11 à 11:32, Joel Aronson  a écrit :
> 
> Bruno
> The control panel is probably worth more than the cylinder. Check eBay sold 
> items to see what they are worth. 
> 
> Joel
> 
>> On Saturday, October 11, 2014, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> this one did not go trouhg So i trimmed the old post
>> 
>> 
>> I did not know that the backstay subject would have so much interest. In my 
>> case my first idea was to go to a general hydro shop in Quebec, i heard 
>> before that i did not have to absolutely send the unit only to navtec. But 
>> when i ask around nobody could recommend any shop so i decided to go for the 
>> "appoved service center" with a good reputation and convince me it was all 
>> in the name of safety. That this 400$ would be a good invesment if i could 
>> have 10 more years out of the unit... the guy on the phone alos told me it 
>> was the best decision.
>>  
>> Good plan, but then the unit failed short after, i sent it back (an other 
>> 80$ of shipping)... and it still leaks a bit and the gauge has been damaged 
>> by the shipping company on its way back what a nightmare...the service 
>> center offers me to sent it back again and will fix it no charge...for an 
>> other 80$ of shipping... 
>>  
>> My final decision is that i will send it back again, but will then put it 
>> for sale. If i'm lucky i will get back my 600 $ of invesment and make a 
>> wednesday night racer happy. But for me my confidence is at it's lowest and 
>> i need to have a reliable unit so i can go offshore for long knowing i can 
>> trust my rig. So i have a rebuild navtec with a new gauge for sale!
>>  
>> As for the split ideas, i would love to have that setup, or have a 34+ like 
>> François...;)  i had a similar setup with my previous C&C 29 mkII and it was 
>> very simple and effective. But i'm not welling to do the modification 
>> (chainplates, bimini mod, etc...)and the single backstay on the 33 is not at 
>> all in the way (very low on the transom). In fact i think a split would 
>> bother me more helming from the sides.
>>  
>> Long story short, i'll try to get my cash back and buy a new sailtec.
>>  
>> Thanks!
>>  
>> Bruno Lachance
>> C&C 33 mkII
>> Becassine
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> > Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2014 09:30:09 -0400
>> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > Subject: Stus-List Back stay adjuster repair, NOT by Navtec
>> > From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > 
>> > I too went thru Navtec for a leak without success, took mine to local 
>> > tractor dealer, fixed the first time 5 years ago, still no leaks or 
>> > problems. Contact me off list if anyone wants address phone number. Navtec 
>> > charged me $ 300 plus and did not fix, my local guy $ 75 and still going 
>> > strong
>> > 
>> > Barry Miller,
>> > Miller Time, C&C 34
>> > 
>> > Sent from my iPad
>> > 
>> > 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Redline 41

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

i did not see the new Redline 41, But i hope that it is more than "slithtly" 
higher quality than a Bene or a Hanse. i charter a brand new (1month) Hanse in 
the BVI last year. nice boat, but the quality of the inside is fairly cheap and 
the deck hardware is minimal... this is just not the same buyer in my opinion. 
The compétition is more like Jboats, Xboats and other european speedsters.

i just hope they do well and add more boats to the new C&C lineup. but its a 
very tough market out there.

you luck you could step on it!

Bruno
c&c 33 mkII
Becassine

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2014-10-11 à 12:32, Roger Ware via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Joel, You forgot to mention the bad- the 41 is a very expensive boat $400K.  
> Hard to see how it will compete well with the slightly lower quality but much 
> lower priced Beneteaus and Hanses.
> Roger Ware, Kingston, ON
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
> Aronson via CnC-List
> Sent: October-11-14 12:00 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Redline 41
>  
> spent a few minutes on the new 41 at the boat show The good- large cockpit, 
> boat appears solid. The bad- winch placement, cabin steps are too far apart, 
> cabin feels very small, aft quarterberths are open with no door for privacy 
> while cruising, door to head is in forward cabin.   Better racer than cruiser 
> Joel
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Jake, 

If you send the pictures to Doug, please add me to the list. 

Thanks

Bruno
33mkii
Becassine

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2014-10-13 à 12:34, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Doug,
> 
> How can you tell the forward keel bolt is leaking?  Is there seepage from
> under the mast?
> 
> I went through a similar repair about ten years ago.  We dropped the keel,
> drilled a large bore hole through the mast step and inserted a stainless
> steel post (about 1 ½" in diameter).  The keel bolt now tries to compress
> the post instead of the somewhat questionable filler that is found in the
> mast step.  While my bilge is still always wet, my only issue is the
> constant stink that the boat has.  When we dropped the keel the forward bolt
> had a bunch of black water surrounding it.  The smell was horrible.
> 
> To further reduce any mast step problems, we installed a large ¼" stainless
> steel plate over the mast step to spread the load across several of the
> cross members.  I do have some pictures to share offline.
> 
> Jake
> 
> Jake Brodersen
> "Midnight Mistress"
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Hampton VA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug
> Allardyce via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 12:18 PM
> To: CnC- List
> Subject: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3
> 
> 
> Has anyone out there done any reconstruction in that cavity under the mast
> step where the keel bolt comes up. My mast step is solid, but I can't seem
> to get the forward keel bolt tight enough. I dropped the keel last spring
> and rebeded it with 5200 but the forward bolt still leaks after a hard race.
> 
> 
> Doug
> "Bullet"
> C&C 35 MK 3, 1985
> _/)~~~_/) 
> 
> << File: Untitled attachment 00291.txt >> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List 34/36 flat area

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

The 33 mkII also has a fairly flat hull bottom section, almost from the back of 
the keel forward. I understand that it helps a lot to keep a good heel angle to 
prevent pounding going upwind. But in short waves IT WILL BANG whoever is at 
the helm. I'm even thinking about reinforcing the front section of the hull 
laminating a "grid" from the inside because i think there is a lack of support 
there and it flexes too much. I was able to notice the flex last summer in the 
choppy conditions of the Northumberland strait. Any comment on that project are 
welcomed.

 

That said, the boat is fast for it's size and fairly stable downwind for an old 
boat. I don't know if the flat section really helps but i did hit some very 
good speed going downwind and surfing for a brief moment (not sustained 
surfing) at a MAX speed of 14 knots!!! on the speedo, not GPS (was not looking 
down!). that day the boat was averaging a speed over 8.5 regularly surfing over 
9 and 10 with rides over 11.5. I did saw a 14 for like a second or two, i don't 
know what the GPS was showing... It was blowing over 30 with a fairly big 
following sea. the sails where "tied" wing to wing, two reefs and with my no.3 
(110%) a bit furled and stabilized with a whisker pole. . since the sails were 
"tied" with the boom secured too, and that my sails were balanced for the 
conditions i was able to play the wind a little to accelerate in the puffs and 
then point the bow down the waves. Very fun ride but very stressful for my 
girlfriend and me too at some points.

 

a friend following us with his CS 36 bent his boom that day after an accidental 
jibe. his boat seemed harder to steer in those conditions and was not "surfing" 
as much as we were. the CS is way heavier and has a very "V shape" bow.

 

Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, C&C 33 mkII

New-Richmond, Qc

 


 



Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2014 10:02:56 -0400
To: cscheaf...@comcast.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; jfriv...@us.ibm.com
Subject: Stus-List 34/36 flat area
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Lots of fast boats have a flat bottom from the keel forward.I made a short 
delivery (40 miles) on a J44 in heavy winds and seas on the 'nose'..the 
boat pounded on every wave it hit.

I don't think the the 34R is any different.the same thing happened on a 
delivery from Port Hawkesbury to Halifax with the wind and waves on the 
nose.that front flat section of the bottom does not push the water away in 
those conditions.at least it didn't for us.both sailing and motoring.  
So I am not sure what Rob Ball means when he says "it wouldn't slam when 
sailing, or when heeled because the hull has a vee on either side of the flat, 
so it acts like a keel when heeled. "

We did a lot of spin runs racing the 34R.the fastest I can recall we got 
the boat going was about 10.2 knots on the GPS and that was with a 3/4 oz. 
chute in about 25 knts true. 

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2014/11/03 8:01 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:



I once asked Rob Ball about that flat area of my 34R, because it would slam 
when crossing a wave.  He said that feature was proven to be fast in IOR 
designs and even though the 1990 34/36R, 34/36+, 34/36XL series was designed 
for IMS, he incorporated it into this hull.  He told me it wouldn't slam when 
sailing, or when heeled because the hull has a vee on either side of the flat, 
so it acts like a keel when heeled.  I've learned to avoid the slam by sailing 
more, or motorsailing, or motoring thru chop or crossing waves at an angle.   
I've since seen that flat section on many other brand racers.



The newest racing sailboat designs (like C&C 30 and Redline 41) however have 
eliptical cross sections, like a canoe, bow to stern.  Have you seen the chines 
on the Volvo Ocean 65's this year?





Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md





From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
To: "Robert Abbott" 
Cc: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Sent: Monday, November 3, 2014 5:16:04 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Surfing hulls



HI, I meant the STEM..  so yes, between keel and the pointy end :-)  



Regards


Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia 
Robert Abbott ---11/03/2014 05:05:13 PM---We raced a 34R extensively..I 
recall the hull on this one to be flat  from the leading edge of k

From: Robert Abbott 
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard/Atlanta/IBM@IBMUS, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: 11/03/2014 05:05 PM
Subject: Surfing hulls





We raced a 34R extensively..I recall the hull on this one to be flat from 
the leading edge of keel forward to the bow...not from the keel back to the 
stern.

I don't ever recall getting this 34R to surf.now we rarely wound this boat 
up to its full potential unless we had a John Roy on board for a race and even 
then I don't recall surfing.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.





On 2014/11/03 12:21 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote: 

The Rob Ball designed 34+ / XL / R s

Re: Stus-List Chunk of shaped lead in the bilge?

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

The 29 mkI is notoriously tender, at least for the "back in the days" 
standards. There is one racing here that added 200 pounds with a home made bulb 
kit (a shoe) to the keel. And i can tell you that this boat is very fast at all 
points of sail and winning on a regular basis, ok more than me... even with th 
PHRF penalty. 

Well worth it in my opinion for this particular design. He can keep more sail 
in a blow and this boat with its wide and flat shape kind of pops out of the 
water. Very impressive and must be one of the hull design that could be easier 
to surf than other. A boat ahead of its time in my opinion, but reduce sail 
early or add weight! 

 

Bruno

Bécassine, 87 33MKII

New-richmond, Qc
 



To: capt...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2014 09:42:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chunk of shaped lead in the bilge?
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com




I go with the addition of weight to make a one-design target. Not sure why on a 
29, but On a non C&C boat I raced on (one of the earlier ones of that make 
built) there was 180 pounds of lead in the aft portion - to make the minimum - 
because the later boats were built differently and weighed more.
 
And the story of having weight added and losing seconds and then taking it out 
and losing more - a friend had an Andrews 26 with an inboard. It died, they 
removed it and replaced it with an outboard - thus losing the prop, strut, 
heavy motor, shaft, etc. And got a 3 second help in the PHRF department! Go 
figure!
 
Gary

- Original Message - 
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: tim ; CnClist 
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2014 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chunk of shaped lead in the bilge?





PHRF cheat weight.  

Buddy of mine found about 150# of lead hidden under the floor of his boat after 
he bought it.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



On Wed, Nov 5, 2014 at 6:46 PM, tim via CnC-List  wrote:




Hi,
 
   I am cleaning out my bilge, and tightening the keel bolts.  In doing the 
cleanout, I found a chuck of shaped lead (probably 20#) towards the front of 
the bilge area.  It is not attached to anything.  It is angled to fit in the 
bilge.  Just curious if anyone may know the purpose of the chunk?
 
Thanks for your thoughts.
 
Tim W.
1976 29’ Mk1
s/v Sly Fox
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Re: Stus-List Mainsail track gate

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

The mast for the 33 mkII 87 was made by http://www.offshorespars.com/
 

This part is not on the online store but they must be able to duplicate one, as 
any good machine shop. This plate is a very simple part and if you still have 
one to copy/mirror.

 

Greg, Where is your boat ? name ?

 

Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33 mk II 87

New-Richmond

 

 

 



To: bluenosesail...@hotmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2014 10:32:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mainsail track gate
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com





Kenyon makes several different types. That is where I got the gate I added to 
my 25.
 
Rick Brass
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Greg 
Sutherland via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 14, 2014 10:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mainsail track gate
 

 





Hey gang wondering if anyone here knows where I can find a replacement for my 
mainsail gate. I've tried to attach a picture but this site wont allow it due 
to email size. It's basically just two pieces of stainless 3/4" x 4" and it 
screws to either side of the mast track to keep the slugs in place. I have 
half, and the Northwest Arm has the other. I have looked at a few boats locally 
and they don't seem to have the same setup. The Binnacle couldn't source one so 
I figured I would check here next. Its off of an '87 33mk2. 

 

Thanks!

 

Greg
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Re: Stus-List Folding prop

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

I have the 3 blades flexofold and no problem sor far. But after tree years i 
decided to remove the blades to clean the pins, etc... and put a fair amount of 
grease and remount, it's smooth as new. I did greased the gears as i could 
every launch but you can't grease the pins without disasembling and they get 
pretty dry adding friction, maybe whorst in salt water. you may alos have 
something stuck on the bumber like a barnacle or other crap preventing the 
blade to open fully.

 

Overall i'm an happy customer and love my flexofold.

 

Bruno

33mkII 87

Becassine
 



Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2014 09:37:32 -0500
To: mike.h...@impgroup.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; bria...@rochester.rr.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding prop
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com


That was going to be my suggestion.  I would just add, give it some throttle in 
reverse and then you have to pop in forward.  It is very hard on the dive train 
but, it may be what's necessary for that prop.  That was how I had to open the 
prop on Lolita.  I eventually went with a 3 blade fixed prop.


Danny



>From my Android phone 


 Original message 
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"  
Date: 11/27/2014 8:07 AM (GMT-05:00) 
To: Brian Donovan ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding prop 


Reverse and then fwd?

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Brian Donovan via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: November 26, 2014 9:52 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Folding prop

This was my first season with Celtic Fire a C & C 35' MK III sailing on Lake 
Ontario.
I have a folding prop Prop (Flexofold 2 blade 16 R).
That does not open up all the way when the boat is moving, when this happens it 
creates a lot of vibration.
This problem does not happen when I leave the dock and start from a standing 
still.
I wonder if anyone else has experienced a similar problem and found a solution.

Cheers,

Brian

Brian Donovan
112 Frisbee Hill Rd.
Hilton NY 14468

585 313 1940

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Stus-List Rudder rebuild

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi, 

The rudder on my boat has been repaired once by the previous owner but the job 
was not very good and now the other side of the rudder needs attention, it has 
partially delaminated, is wet, the shape has been afffected and its no longer 
symetrical and finally i question the profile. at this point, after many 
repairs and a compromised shape, it's time to do things right and i want it 
rebuilt completely.

My question, does anybody knows what type of profile was used for the 33mkii 
rudder.  is it a NACA profile, if yes which one exactly? I'm looking to build 
templates for the rebuild. 

Thanks

Bruno
Becassine, c&c 33mkii
new-richmond, Qc


Envoyé de mon iPad
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Re: Stus-List Rudder rebuild

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Jim, what's the better way to communicate with the museum to have access to 
that kind of info? I beleive a lister has a contact there?? And that We could 
buy copies of our boat drawings.

the 0014 naca profiles seems a good compromise for the boat. Smaller boats seem 
to go a bit thinner like 0012. Hard to figure...

Thanks, 

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2015-01-11 à 13:29, Jim Watts  a écrit :
> 
> I believe Bob Perry uses the NACA 0014 profile for rudders, if that helps. 
> You should also be able to get the original lines plans from the Maritime 
> Museum in Kingston. <http://www.marmuseum.ca/>
> 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 11 January 2015 at 10:25, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi,
>> 
>> The rudder on my boat has been repaired once by the previous owner but the 
>> job was not very good and now the other side of the rudder needs attention, 
>> it has partially delaminated, is wet, the shape has been afffected and its 
>> no longer symetrical and finally i question the profile. at this point, 
>> after many repairs and a compromised shape, it's time to do things right and 
>> i want it rebuilt completely.
>> 
>> My question, does anybody knows what type of profile was used for the 33mkii 
>> rudder.  is it a NACA profile, if yes which one exactly? I'm looking to 
>> build templates for the rebuild.
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Bruno
>> Becassine, c&c 33mkii
>> new-richmond, Qc
>> 
>> 
>> Envoyé de mon iPad
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Re: Stus-List Rudder Rebuild

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

thanks everyone for the inputs.

Allan, nice to hear from you, hope you're doing well.

I have checked both Southshore and CCI about replacement, Southshore sells the 
"original" rudder for 4500$ like said Francois, and CCI can make a new blade 
for 3000$ if you send your post, would be more with a new SS post or carbon is 
offered two.

I could but will not this job myself, we have a very good guy around that does 
composite repairs and custom fabrication, I have no doubt the new rudder will 
be very well made, better than new in fact, and reliable and a lot 
cheaper...But since I race the boat I want to be sure the profile is right so I 
want to have the right numbers to give to the builder. 

with no mold and with both sides profiles altered, he will probably have to 
shape a foam core and laminate over, the key will be to have the core right to 
minimize the fairing and keep the weight down. The actual one is so heavy... 
Probably wet and with a lot of putty from previous "repairs".

I might even ask CCI if they could just sell a CNC milled foam core in two 
pieces that I could put together minimizing the shaping effort and trouble to 
get it right. That seems to there construction technique.

it was interesting to see the file with the sketch of the 37+ rudder. It looks 
like the profile goes tapered  from 15% at the top to 11% at the tip. it makes 
sense and I will check mine to see if I can find the same variation. I would 
love to have an elliptical shape if I wasn't worry it would affect my rating...

I will check with the museum to buy the plans and hope to find answers. 

thanks.

Bruno

becassine
33mkii


Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 11, 2015, at 5:27 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello Bruno, 
> 
> If you'd rather spend the cash instead of going through the whole exercise, 
> how about a brand spankin' new one that's supposedly improved?  
> 
> Check out www.Southshoreyachts.com .  I see one here:  
> http://southshoreyachts.com/?s=Rudder&post_type=product   for your boat for 
> $4,500.00.  It's a bit pricey but it's peace of mind.. 
> 
> Bonne année! 
> 
> François Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five" 
> Lake Lanier, Georgia
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Re: Stus-List Rudder Rebuild

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

Thanks for the idea, well... Sadly I'm the only 33 mkII around. My rudder, 
which is now in my basement, is out of shape but not that much neither (one 
almost ok side). We may try to make templates at different heights and correct 
them with a Naca model profile.

 I think it could be possible to make a mold as you suggested, but i wonder if 
it could be cost effective. more foot for toughts i guess. two ways to compare. 
I will talk to my friend /builder about it. 

anyways if We try the mold it will be easier with the rudder off the boat. Can 
i say that part was not fun...remove the thing.

Bruno.


Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2015-01-11 à 20:16, Dennis C.  a écrit :
> 
> Is there a 33 Mk II on the hard, perchance?  If it is nearby, perhaps a mold 
> of the rudder could be made.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Sun, Jan 11, 2015 at 5:37 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> thanks everyone for the inputs.
>> 
>> Allan, nice to hear from you, hope you're doing well.
>> 
>> I have checked both Southshore and CCI about replacement, Southshore sells 
>> the "original" rudder for 4500$ like said Francois, and CCI can make a new 
>> blade for 3000$ if you send your post, would be more with a new SS post or 
>> carbon is offered two.
>> 
>> I could but will not this job myself, we have a very good guy around that 
>> does composite repairs and custom fabrication, I have no doubt the new 
>> rudder will be very well made, better than new in fact, and reliable and a 
>> lot cheaper...But since I race the boat I want to be sure the profile is 
>> right so I want to have the right numbers to give to the builder. 
>> 
>> with no mold and with both sides profiles altered, he will probably have to 
>> shape a foam core and laminate over, the key will be to have the core right 
>> to minimize the fairing and keep the weight down. The actual one is so 
>> heavy... Probably wet and with a lot of putty from previous "repairs".
>> 
>> I might even ask CCI if they could just sell a CNC milled foam core in two 
>> pieces that I could put together minimizing the shaping effort and trouble 
>> to get it right. That seems to there construction technique.
>> 
>> it was interesting to see the file with the sketch of the 37+ rudder. It 
>> looks like the profile goes tapered  from 15% at the top to 11% at the tip. 
>> it makes sense and I will check mine to see if I can find the same 
>> variation. I would love to have an elliptical shape if I wasn't worry it 
>> would affect my rating...
>> 
>> I will check with the museum to buy the plans and hope to find answers. 
>> 
>> thanks.
>> 
>> Bruno
>> 
>> becassine
>> 33mkii
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Jan 11, 2015, at 5:27 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello Bruno, 
>>> 
>>> If you'd rather spend the cash instead of going through the whole exercise, 
>>> how about a brand spankin' new one that's supposedly improved?  
>>> 
>>> Check out www.Southshoreyachts.com .  I see one here:  
>>> http://southshoreyachts.com/?s=Rudder&post_type=product   for your boat for 
>>> $4,500.00.  It's a bit pricey but it's peace of mind.. 
>>> 
>>> Bonne année! 
>>> 
>>> François Rivard
>>> 1990 34+ "Take Five" 
>>> Lake Lanier, Georgia
>>> ___
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>>> 
>>> Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all 
>>> subscribers.
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>>> page at:
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>>> 
>> 
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> 
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Stus-List Need help from a fellow Cnc listers in Florida

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

 
Hi,
 
I need the help and support of the list to find a solution for a friend of mine 
that is stock with his boat and family in Georgetown, Exumas, Bahamas. His 1 
inch shaft (the boat) simply broke in two pieces after catching a line at 2600 
rpr. Probably a manufacturing defect. He needs replacement parts before he 
haulout the boat for the repair.
 
I am waiting for precise specifications (lenght, size, etc...), but he needs to 
find a shop in Florida that could ship him the replacement parts ASAP. He needs 
a new 1 inch shaft and a new cutlass bearing and would also like a drive saver 
coupling plate. Specifications following soon...
 
Anybody outthere that could help me help him ? 
 
I am looking for references on a good shop that could take charge of this and 
organize the shipping, any onsite help would also be appreciated if needed. I 
am in Quebec, Canada.
 
I could pay the order via my credit card on the phone.
 
Thanks a lot, please contact me off the list if you are in a position to assist.
 
Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
New-richmond, Qc
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Need help from a fellow Cnc listers in Florida

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hello listers,

Thanks for the support, i received some good tips and it helps to limit 
potential errors. 

here is the update on the situation. the cutlass and drive saver plate are 
already on order. the most complicated part is to find or calculate the right 
lenght of the prop shaft. the actual broken one was new before departure last 
july, as is the PSS and the cutlass that will be replaces as a precaution. my 
friend wants to have all the parts, and then do the repair with the boat on a 
rustic travel lift nearby. 

the boat is a CS 36 Merlin 1988 with a Volvo engine, the transmission has a 4 
inches flange. the shaft is 1 inch diameter and "about" 66 to 70 inches long. 
Mine is 44 on my 33mkII So its pretty long...The prop is a Martec So everything 
points to a standard SAE  Taper That is usually found on our boats, the key 
is 1/4 and the coupling is actually a split coupling that could fit on a "on 
the spot home cut to the right lenght, not face fitted" shaft. but if he could 
have the shaft lenght from a good source, a new fitted coupling would be on 
order.

I have been in contact with DeepBlue yacht supply in Fort Lauderdale and it 
seems easy to order from their website. there is 3-4 days production time 
before shipping. The good reviews from this list are reassuring. Thanks.

SO, i am still looking for the original shaft lenght, are the CS plans 
available at the Maritime museum too? Any others sources for that info that i 
could get my hands on before tomorrow? I doubt Holland Marine has that info but 
will try tomorrow.

ALSO, we are still looking for someone that could pickup the shaft at DeepBlue 
yacht supply and bring it few blocks away at Reggie Express services that Fly 
from there to Georgetown, Exumas. we want to save the additional shipping delay 
from UPS. Its just few kilometers away... 

Thanks for helping a fellow sailor and his family. the CS is still a very nice 
boat!


Bruno Lachance
Becassine,33 mkII



Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2015-02-18 à 17:44, Bill Connon via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
>> Bruno,
>> You are a very good friend.
>> 
>> What make and model boat does your friend have?   1" Shaft".  Length?   
>> Keyway dimensions?  Taper for the prop? Cutless bearing OD and length?
>> 
>> There is a slim chance someone on this list has replaced theirs so your 
>> friend may have to haul the boat, remove the shaft, measure everything and 
>> order the right parts?  If he's doing all this he should also replace the 
>> piece of hose between the shaft log and the stuffing box if it's older than 
>> 10 years?
>> 
>> I doubt anybody but the builder keeps prop shaft dimensions for a specific 
>> boat.  Best of luck.
>> 
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C&C 34R
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>> 
>> 
> I imagine that Bruno will be back with more details but in the meantime the 
> boat involved is a CS Merlin 36 ft. long. If somebody knows of a CS newsgroup 
> similar to our C&C group it could be of a big help.
> 
> Bill
> Caprice 1
> 
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Need help from a fellow Cnc listers in Florida

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

mark, in fact i found a question in the wiki section not the discussion list, 
i'm not a member. If you can Check the list and report please, it would be very 
appreciated. 

I will ask my friend if its him, his name is Fred.

Thanks again for the reply.

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2015-02-18 à 22:04, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> 
> I'm a member on the CS owners association group - a request for shaft info 
> was already posted on that list yesterday.
> 
> 
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>  - George Santayana
> 
>> On 2015-02-18 6:44 PM, Bill Connon via CnC-List wrote:
>> Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
>>> Bruno,
>>> You are a very good friend.
>>> 
>>> What make and model boat does your friend have?   1" Shaft". Length?   
>>> Keyway dimensions?  Taper for the prop? Cutless bearing OD and length?
>>> 
>>> There is a slim chance someone on this list has replaced theirs so your 
>>> friend may have to haul the boat, remove the shaft, measure everything and 
>>> order the right parts?  If he's doing all this he should also replace the 
>>> piece of hose between the shaft log and the stuffing box if it's older than 
>>> 10 years?
>>> 
>>> I doubt anybody but the builder keeps prop shaft dimensions for a specific 
>>> boat.  Best of luck.
>>> 
>>> Chuck
>>> Resolute
>>> 1990 C&C 34R
>>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> I imagine that Bruno will be back with more details but in the meantime the 
>> boat involved is a CS Merlin 36 ft. long. If somebody knows of a CS 
>> newsgroup similar to our C&C group it could be of a big help.
>> 
>> Bill
>> Caprice 1
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> of page at:
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>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Cool to see some activity here from C&C 33 mkII owners and congrats Bradley on 
the new boat . 2015 will be my fifth season with the boat (previously own a 29 
mkII) and this boat is amazing. Very easy to sail fast, tracks well so fairly 
predictable if caught overpowered. I have the '87 "millesime" so the mast is 
from Offshore spar and is very nice to work with.
 
I would be interested to know what kind of upgrades and modifications other 
owners have done on their boat. You can reply in private if you prefer.
 
 I try each year to put some love and $ in my boat to make her stronger, faster 
and more comformtable. This year i plan to laminate a reinforcement grid in the 
flat area of the bilge in front of the keel, (i think this part flexes too much 
in heavy sea), new rudder, clean the fuel tank, change the hoses (fuel and 
exaust), change the shaft, new PSS, new cutlass bearing, engine compartment 
isolation, new speedo, new spninlock rope clutch for halyard. the boom is in 
the basement for maintenance of the sheaves. Will check bushings at the same 
time. and i'm having the navtec backstay rebuilt, an other time...
 
I want to change my jib sheet and i would like to know the smallest size that 
could still work well with my Barient 24 ST?? 
 
Pretty much the 2015 to do list. 
 
Thinking about changing the headstay this year too, maybe go with Dyform... but 
i think i will wait one more year, my list is long enough.
 
Bruno Lachance
"Bécassine" C&C 33 mkII
New-Richmond, Qc.
 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2015 10:08:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com








Congrats, Bradley, great boat, I bought my 
C&C33 MKii two years ago. Yes, the sheaves are grooved for wire 
halyards. I elected to keep the wire halyards because the rope size works 
better in the clutches and self tailing winches. You may want to check the 
sheaves bushings for wear; I  replaced the bushings in my sheaves with 
oillite bronze from Princess auto. My instruments were also trash so I put in a 
Raymarine speed/depth/ wind package, very nice and economical. I have made many 
upgrades in the past two years; feel free to email me off list if there is 
anything I can help you with.
 
Mike Amirault
"Lovely Cruise" C&C 33 mkii
St Margarets Bay, NS.

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Re: Stus-List salt water siphoning into sink

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

my 33mkII did the same before, and a friend with a 33 mkII suggested to had a 
plastic valve right under the drain (white valve with red knob/ handle), found 
in hardware store and Marine store. this is way more convenient to close than 
the hard to reach under the port settee. easy to open and close when using the 
head. no more water spilling on a hard starboard beat.

Bruno
Becassine 

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2015-02-20 à 19:36, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Our 37 does this.  It is one way to clean the heads I suppose.  We close the 
> seacock.
> 
> Ken H.
> 
>> On 20 February 2015 at 19:32, mike amirault via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> On a  C&C 33 mkii, has anyone experienced salt (or lake) water filling up 
>> the sink in the head when heeled over hard on a stbd tack? Mine was filling 
>> up and overflowing unless the sink plug was in or the drain cock closed. I 
>> suppose the proper thing for a seaman to do would be to close the drain cock 
>> but this can be inconvenient when cruising. I installed a check valve and 
>> this worked but it is not of marine quality and is  corroding. I don't think 
>> a vented loop will work on a gravity fed drain. Any other solutions?
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Bow Roller

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

The right guy is Allan Rheaume. He was active on the list few years ago and is 
very knowledgable about the 30 mk II. He was in the Lake Ontario area in 2010. 
He answered a lot of my questions when I was looking for a boat at the time.

You should be able to find him easily.

Bruno Lachance
Becassine, 33 mkII
New Richmond, Qc.

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 26 avr. 2016 à 19:16, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Lorne:
> 
> I'm not that Allan, but I can send you pictures of the bow roller I added to 
> my boat.  Send me your email address.  trya...@alumni.usc.edu
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
>> On Tue, Apr 26, 2016 at 4:04 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I found an article in the resource center.  It says to contact ...
>> 
>> For more information - contact Allan.
>> 
>> It does not work.  Anyone know who Allan is and how to get a hold of him?  I 
>> like his bow roller setup on a Mk30II.  I don't have one and really want a 
>> roller setup.
>> 
>> Lorne Serpa
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Matching Traveller Track Dimensions 29 Mark II

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

hi Eugene,
 
On my previous boat, a 29 mkII, i
replaced the mainsheet traveller with this kit from Lewmar : 
http://www.lewmar.com/node/14612?v=26085


It works very well, it’s powerful so
you will love to play with it! i bet you were not into those pin stoppers...and 
the price is good compared to a similar Harken
setup.



The installation is simple, you cut
the track to lenght, and the bolts slide into the new tracks so you can use the
existing holes. Fairly easy DIY project. I did have to had a ¼ inch thick, 
alumimun
flat bar to make it clear the recessed. 


Writing this i remember now the
worst was to drill that flat bar to fit existing holes… yeah without a 
pressdrill it took some patience to punch and drill...


 good luck!


Bruno Lachance


Bécassine, 33 mkII


New-richmond, Qc


 


 
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2016 15:16:38 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Matching Traveller Track Dimensions 29 Mark II
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: efo...@gmail.com

Thanks folks for all the advice on my marine head. I purchased the Wilcox 
Crittenden Headmate kit from wet marine so wish me luck. Plan to rebuild the 
pump this week-end.
Next thing I'd like to update is to put in is to replace the traveller stops 
with some actual rigging. Anyone have any experience using the existing 
traveller bar on their C&C 29 mark II with running rigging from Harken or 
Ronstan? I'm hoping the track is compatible so I don't have to rebed it.
Thanks,
Gene

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Re: Stus-List Matching Traveller Track Dimensions 29 Mark II

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi Eugene,
 
It was the number 1 (for boats 26-36 ft), so plenty strong with the cleats on 
the traveller car. I got the riser bar from a machine shop and the 1/4 
thickness was just enough to clear the bridgedeck. 
 
The Harken windward car is very nice for racing, but at the time that option 
was way more expensive if i did not want to go undersized. the Lewmar worked 
better than my actual original Harken with the cleats at each end of the track. 
I liked that the cleats were on the car with the Lewmar traveller.
 
Maybe you could use an other traveller track instead for riser but i ran into 
the clearance issus tightening the new track with the butyl tape oozing 
out...lesson learned! It was a pain to remove, clean and run to the machine 
shop at the last minute to get the riser bar and start over the installation.
 
the 1/4 riser keeps the track low and that was my goal. My old boat is still at 
my marina, i could get a picture tomorrow if you want.
 
I bought my kit from this place in Canada: 
https://www.blyacht.com/fr/ensembles-chariot-et-rail-de-lewmar.html
 
 
Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
New-Richmond, Qc
 
 
From: efo...@gmail.com
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2016 08:39:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Matching Traveller Track Dimensions 29 Mark II
To: bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com
CC: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Hi Bruno, 
Which size did you use? They have a 0, 1 and 2, but it's not clear which would 
be the best fit (guessing the 1). I'm assuming you got the aluminum riser bar 
from some place like Grainger or Home Depot? I do have a drill press so that 
shouldn't be an issue.
Thanks,
GeneC&C 29-IIHawk

On Thu, Jun 2, 2016 at 3:58 PM, Bruno Lachance  
wrote:





hi Eugene,
 
On my previous boat, a 29 mkII, i
replaced the mainsheet traveller with this kit from Lewmar : 
http://www.lewmar.com/node/14612?v=26085


It works very well, it’s powerful so
you will love to play with it! i bet you were not into those pin stoppers...and 
the price is good compared to a similar Harken
setup.



The installation is simple, you cut
the track to lenght, and the bolts slide into the new tracks so you can use the
existing holes. Fairly easy DIY project. I did have to had a ¼ inch thick, 
alumimun
flat bar to make it clear the recessed. 


Writing this i remember now the
worst was to drill that flat bar to fit existing holes… yeah without a 
pressdrill it took some patience to punch and drill...


 good luck!


Bruno Lachance


Bécassine, 33 mkII


New-richmond, Qc


 


 
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2016 15:16:38 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Matching Traveller Track Dimensions 29 Mark II
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: efo...@gmail.com

Thanks folks for all the advice on my marine head. I purchased the Wilcox 
Crittenden Headmate kit from wet marine so wish me luck. Plan to rebuild the 
pump this week-end.
Next thing I'd like to update is to put in is to replace the traveller stops 
with some actual rigging. Anyone have any experience using the existing 
traveller bar on their C&C 29 mark II with running rigging from Harken or 
Ronstan? I'm hoping the track is compatible so I don't have to rebed it.
Thanks,
Gene

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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Robin,

I do remember the original fixed blades prop of my 33 mk II with original 
Yanmar 2gmf was 16", will have to check for the pitch but I think it is 12. I 
will be back home in two days to verify that.

I ordered a Flexofold 3 blades and they recommended 15" /9". The blade area is 
larger and I think it is too much prop for my boat, I can't push the engine 
over 2800. But it is a good prop and I deal with it.

Bruno lachance
Becassine, 33 mkIi
New Richmond, Qc


Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 5 juin 2016 à 22:29, Robin Drew via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Thanks. I just bought the boat and I'm pretty annoyed but sure the problem is 
> that it's  worn and needs maintenance. I'm planning on removing it and 
> putting a simple 2 blade prop on, at least for now.
> 
> It's hard to get info about the size and pitch specs. However, I found a 
> website in BC that has a prop calculator and it gave me 15" with 9" pitch for 
> my boat (CNC 33/2), engine and transmission. Does this sound right?
> 
> Any comments?
> Robin Drew
> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
> 
>> On May 29, 2016, at 4:32 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> The obvious question in this case with a folding prop, is do all the blades 
>> open all the way?
>> Once it is in the water it is hard to tell unless you can dive on it.
>> I bought a used 2 blade prop recently that is geared so that the halves are 
>> supposed to open evenly. The pins are so worn in the prop body that the gear 
>> teeth can jump one another and it gets stuck so that one blade does not open 
>> all the way. In my case the prop needs to be re-built.
>> The short answer is that anything that causes one blade to stick will cause 
>> the problem you describe.
>> There are other possibilities, but that is the easiest to check.
>>  
>> Steve Thomas
>> C&C27 MKIII
>> Port Stanley, ON  
>> - Original Message -
>> From: Robin Drew via CnC-List
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Robin Drew
>> Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 17:26
>> Subject: Stus-List Propeller
>> 
>> I have just purchased a C&C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
>> clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
>> vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?
>> 
>> Robin Drew
>> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
>> "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Gear, shaft positin, transmission, folding ---- RE: (no subject)

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Mike,
 
I will get back to you tonight with the price of my Flexofold 3 blades. It was 
not chead and i remebered i had to pay a ridiculously high custom clearance fee 
to UPS, I hate them since.
 
I was convinced to go 3 blades after reading a lot about prop balance and 
vibration. It is more expensive, but i went for it and i am very happy. I have 
less vibration than with my old fixed two blades.
 
It stops the boat quickly in reverse with minimal prop walk and i achieve 
target speed at low rpm, wich is good on fuel but i know it can lead to carbon 
buildup. To remediate that i do push the engine sometime but over 2800- 2900 
the engine is loaded and the black smoke comes out. So instead i push it in 
neutral at the dock. I remember some recommandations from Yanmar on this. 
something like: high revs for a moment to burn everything and then iddle to 
cool down the engine and then shut it off.
 
I do still think that my prop is bit too much for my small engine. And if i had 
to buy another i might go with a two blades instead because everybody seems 
satisfied with it.
 
 My prop would be perfect for your 3 GMF! ;)
 
Bruno.

 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2016 12:47:34 +
> Subject: Stus-List Gear, shaft positin, transmission, folding   RE:  (no 
> subject)
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: mike.h...@impgroup.com
> 
> The two things I take away from this are that 1. YES - a geared folding prop 
> is much better than a floppy Martec folding prop and that 2. a Martec folding 
> prop should have shaft aligned such that the blades are horizontal so that 
> they stay folded esp in light wind.
> 
> So if the shaft is aligned that likely means not in neutral.  Back to 
> original argument
> 
> Persistence has an oversized engine.  3GM30F where all C&C33-2 and Frers 33 
> come stock with 2GM20F.  Behind the transmission there is BARELY sufficient 
> distance on shaft for the dripless shaft seal.  The coupling would have to be 
> marked in order to know the shaft was aligned.  This is all well and good but 
> which crew member am I going to convince to climb inside the cockpit locker 
> (after removing any contents), unfasten the fabric separator between locker 
> and engine compartment, wiggle in a contorted position to get access to the 
> coupler and shaft?  It is theoretically possible for us to align shaft but in 
> practicality is impossible.
> 
> Therefore the only real conclusion is to lose the Martec and obtain a 
> Flex-O-Fold
> 
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake 
> Brodersen via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2016 7:46 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Jake Brodersen
> Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)
> 
> Tom,
> 
> I put mine in reverse to stop the prop, then position the shaft so the blades 
> are folded.  Then I put it back into reverse to lock them in place.
> It's easy, especially if you mark the shaft position when the boat is out of 
> the water.
> 
> Jake
> 
> 
> Jake Brodersen
> C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
> Hampton VA
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Gear, shaft positin, transmission, folding ---- RE: (no subject)

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

For me it was a priority to buy a nice prop.
 
I was loosing sleep over the drag of my old fixed prop to my boat that i wanted 
to race, and was also going crazy earing the prop free spin underway. I had to 
do something and choose a Flexofold that was cheaper than a maxprop.
 
My flexofold will spin in neutral, so i put it in reverse knowing i am not 
causing any arm to the transmission.
 
I prefer to spend my money on nice sails that i can see and enjoy, but a good 
prop is also important in my opinion.
 
Bruno Lachance
Becassine, C&C 33 mkII
New-Richmond, Qc

 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2016 12:47:34 +
> Subject: Stus-List Gear, shaft positin, transmission, folding   RE:  (no 
> subject)
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: mike.h...@impgroup.com
> 
> The two things I take away from this are that 1. YES - a geared folding prop 
> is much better than a floppy Martec folding prop and that 2. a Martec folding 
> prop should have shaft aligned such that the blades are horizontal so that 
> they stay folded esp in light wind.
> 
> So if the shaft is aligned that likely means not in neutral.  Back to 
> original argument
> 
> Persistence has an oversized engine.  3GM30F where all C&C33-2 and Frers 33 
> come stock with 2GM20F.  Behind the transmission there is BARELY sufficient 
> distance on shaft for the dripless shaft seal.  The coupling would have to be 
> marked in order to know the shaft was aligned.  This is all well and good but 
> which crew member am I going to convince to climb inside the cockpit locker 
> (after removing any contents), unfasten the fabric separator between locker 
> and engine compartment, wiggle in a contorted position to get access to the 
> coupler and shaft?  It is theoretically possible for us to align shaft but in 
> practicality is impossible.
> 
> Therefore the only real conclusion is to lose the Martec and obtain a 
> Flex-O-Fold
> 
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake 
> Brodersen via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2016 7:46 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Jake Brodersen
> Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)
> 
> Tom,
> 
> I put mine in reverse to stop the prop, then position the shaft so the blades 
> are folded.  Then I put it back into reverse to lock them in place.
> It's easy, especially if you mark the shaft position when the boat is out of 
> the water.
> 
> Jake
> 
> 
> Jake Brodersen
> C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
> Hampton VA
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Propeller - flexofold

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Mike,

The 3 blades Flexofold, 15" / 11" was 1 520 US $ two years ago, including the 
50$ freight charge. Plus the 

It replaced an original Martec fixed blades that was 16" / 10" pitch.

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 7 juin 2016 à 08:21, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Bruno
>  
> What did they charge you for that prop?
>  
> Mike
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno 
> Lachance via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2016 7:00 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bruno Lachance
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller
>  
> Robin,
>  
> I do remember the original fixed blades prop of my 33 mk II with original 
> Yanmar 2gmf was 16", will have to check for the pitch but I think it is 12. I 
> will be back home in two days to verify that.
>  
> I ordered a Flexofold 3 blades and they recommended 15" /9". The blade area 
> is larger and I think it is too much prop for my boat, I can't push the 
> engine over 2800. But it is a good prop and I deal with it.
>  
> Bruno lachance
> Becassine, 33 mkIi
> New Richmond, Qc
> 
> 
> Envoyé de mon iPad
> 
> Le 5 juin 2016 à 22:29, Robin Drew via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Thanks. I just bought the boat and I'm pretty annoyed but sure the problem is 
> that it's  worn and needs maintenance. I'm planning on removing it and 
> putting a simple 2 blade prop on, at least for now.
>  
> It's hard to get info about the size and pitch specs. However, I found a 
> website in BC that has a prop calculator and it gave me 15" with 9" pitch for 
> my boat (CNC 33/2), engine and transmission. Does this sound right?
> 
> Any comments?
> Robin Drew
> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
> 
>  
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON  
> - Original Message -
> From: Robin Drew via CnC-List
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Robin Drew
> Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 17:26
> Subject: Stus-List Propeller
>  
> I have just purchased a C&C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
> clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
> vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?
> 
> Robin Drew
> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
> "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Propeller - flexofold

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Yes, compared to the old fixed 2 blades. But maybe that old prop needed to be 
rebalanced, who knows. My prop shaft is aligned with the keel. I believe the 3 
blades makes a difference there. There is always a blade that has less 
turbulence from the keel. At least that is was I found as an explanation on the 
Web and it makes sense to me. But I don't have enough experience with different 
setup to really make a good comparison here.

Last year I decided to replace the cutless bearing and install a PSS. I ended 
up cutting the old shaft, replace it with an Aqualloy one and add a new Buck 
Algonquin split coupling. I also removed carefully the shaft strut and rebedded 
and fair it. I was lucky to be ok with minimal alignment of the engine after 
that. I hope to be fine for many years to come now. 

I also redid engine compartment insulation last year. It's not as quiet as an 
Oyster ;), but it is quieter and it runs smoother than before. I can't exactly 
identify the main reason since I changed everything at the same time.

Bruno
C&c 33 mk II
Becassine.






Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 9 juin 2016 à 23:04, Andrew Burton via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Bruno, did you find there was less vibration with the three blade prop?
> 
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
>> On Jun 9, 2016, at 22:15, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Mike,
>> 
>> The 3 blades Flexofold, 15" / 11" was 1 520 US $ two years ago, including 
>> the 50$ freight charge. Plus the 
>> 
>> It replaced an original Martec fixed blades that was 16" / 10" pitch.
>> 
>> Envoyé de mon iPad
>> 
>>> Le 7 juin 2016 à 08:21, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  a 
>>> écrit :
>>> 
>>> Bruno
>>>  
>>> What did they charge you for that prop?
>>>  
>>> Mike
>>>  
>>> 
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Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Dave,


On my 33-2 (1987, Offshorespars mast). I added the mast crane from Offshore to 
add some clearance in front of the furler and to use one dedicated spin 
haylard. I even remove the port haylard since i don't use it /need it. I have 
full confidence in my fairly new all rope (Vectran) haylards.


Knowing i will never have a full crew to race with a symetric spin, I wanted a 
big asym that would be easy to rig double handed or even singlehanded. I went a 
bit crazy and ordered a Selden retractable bowsprit (3 feet in front of the bow 
extended) and a Facnor furler. the asym is 82 m2 runner, almost as big as a 
symetric and is very easy to manage even in challenging conditions. It is 
amazing how deep i can keep it, up to 150-160 degrees in a good breeze.


If i was to do it all over i might choose a sock insteand of the furler. the 
furler works ok but it is slow to furl. Not ideal when racing on short courses, 
but our racing is mostly coastal distance racing. And the tack (furler drum) is 
fixed, i sometimes try to let go the haylard a bit (10-12 inches) to get a 
fuller sail, but i'm sure it would be better to play with the tack line if i 
had one...


To have more clearance  at the top of the mast, the crane was a big plus, it 
would be too tight between the spin furler head and the jib furler otherwise.


I added a spinlock XAS cluth on the mast and i love it. I also have a XTS at 
the mast for the main.


Let me know if you would like some pictures of my setup.


Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33-2

New-Richmond,Qc.






De : CnC-List  de la part de Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List 
Envoyé : 12 septembre 2016 12:34
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc : Hoyt, Mike
Objet : Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?

Dave

The Frers 33 is remarkably similar to C&C 33-2.  It also has three mast 
halyards forward.  The outer ones are most certainly port and stbd spin 
halyards.  One reason NOT to have one of the spin halyards at mast and other in 
cockpit is that a spin will always want to be hoisted on whichever halyard is 
on the leeward is at hoist time.

Persistence has an oversized anchor roller that protruded a bit in front of 
bow.  We have a bail on this that we put a side opening block on.  We simply 
run the spin downhaul thru this for a tack line.  Any gybes are best done 
forward of forestay. Since spin halyards are expected to have loads to the 
sides that should not be any different with asym than with symmetric spin.  
Note that we have had no issues with this setup using the sock or without the 
sock on our asym.

For your mast comments why not a cleat at the mast.  Something maybe like a J 
Boat where it has a cam cleat at mast and is also run back to coachroof.  
Alternatively a horn cleat at mast (likely is one there already for some other 
purpose) and when short handed cleat it there.  The rest of the halyard could 
still be run back to cockpit with the excess either bundled at mast or in 
cockpit at your discretion.

Have fun with the asym.

Mike
Persistence
Frers 33
Halifax, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Syerdave--- 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 7:40 AM
To: C&c Stus List
Cc: syerd...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?

Great information all, and thank you.In response to a few comments,
Had originally thought of a Crane also at the masthead, and somehow 
incorporating a bail into the anchor roller, but as noted, with three halyards 
and a few options at the bow, it is probably not necessary.  I guess the crane 
etc went away for windage reasons?Something at the anchor roller casting 
could be added later maybe.
 I will add a a belaying point at the mast for one of the wing halyards.  No 
brainer, now that someone else suggested it!
On chafe, wraps.  I still have the original wire halyards and have noted 
abrasion from same at the masthead.  Will replace with rope over the winter, 
and per the article referred, mark to ensure a full hoist.
Outside/inside? Outside absolutely, and I should have stated that in my post.  
I can't imagine trying to tack that sail inside on a 33-2.
Last, single or short handed?single, with Otto, sibling of George, doing 
his thing at the helm.
Thanks again, all set.

Dave.
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greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs b

Stus-List Exaust elbow replacement

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi all,


I know from this list that i could replace my exaust elbow (yanmar 2 GM 20F) 
with a stainless steel copy available online. Is there a reason why i should go 
with an original yanmar part ? and if the collective wisdon is to replace with 
SS. Where is the best place to order if i'm in Canada. For both quality and 
price.



Thank you very much.


Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33 mk II

New-Richmond, Qc

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Re: Stus-List Exaust elbow replacement

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

I was wondering if there could be a negative impact to use a Ss elbow that may 
not have the same internal dimension and thus affecting the flow and 
performance of the engine. But I may be overthinking this...

Other thoughts out there or experiences to share on this matter ?




Thanks



Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33 mk II

New-Richmond, Qc

Bruno.

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 28 août 2017 à 20:34, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

We replaced ours 2 years ago – mechanic recommended the cast iron version, and 
not to use the stainless.  Don’t remember the exact reason why but believe it 
had to do with the rusting of the cast iron was indicative an internal issue



John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno 
Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2017 10:15 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Bruno Lachance
Subject: Stus-List Exaust elbow replacement




Hi all,



I know from this list that i could replace my exaust elbow (yanmar 2 GM 20F) 
with a stainless steel copy available online. Is there a reason why i should go 
with an original yanmar part ? and if the collective wisdon is to replace with 
SS. Where is the best place to order if i'm in Canada. For both quality and 
price.





Thank you very much.



Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33 mk II

New-Richmond, Qc

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Compatibility between refrigeration brands

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi,

Maybe this has been discussed before, but to be sure to have a clear and 
complete answer, because yes this list is full of knowledge! Here is my 
question to the list.

We have an Isotherm refrigeration onboard but it is not working as it should. 
It runs, but it's not cooling and it's loud, the fan has been replaced in the 
past. My girlfriend has to keep very expensive medication between 2 and 8 
degrees Celsius, so a reliable unit is essential. I say this because I want to 
explain that we can not afford to cheap on this as in trying to refill the 
unit, etc...just bought the boat, don't know the history.

So the options are to change everything, or to evaluate the condition of the 
plate and see if changing the compressor unit only can be done if there not 
sign of damage that could cause a leak.

Oh, and since we are in Grenada, the choices are very limited. SO...Is it 
possible to plug a Dometic compressor unit (available) or other brand to my 
isotherm control and plate ( year 2002) ? Are the connections universal and is 
the control working with the same wiring, amperage, etc...

Thank you for your help.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, C&c 33 mkII on her trailer in Canada
Sv Gros Loup, jeanneau sunfast 43 for the next 10 months in the islands.



Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 12 mai 2017 à 09:12, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Or are you missing any shackles on the backstay that could have been used as 
spacers?

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 7:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

Hi Dave

Is it possible that there is a mast step adjustment and the step has been moved 
aft further than desired?

Have you tried running the main halyard aft and tightening the halyard?  
Attaching it to an aft cleat or something very solid and then using the halyard 
winch should help bring mast tip back.  I am not very familiar with the rig on 
the 34+ but am assuming that like most of the pre Tartan C&Cs the spreaders are 
not swept back.  Also .. a very dumb question .. do you have any jib or spin 
halyards attached to any point forward of the mast?

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 9:05 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

Dear listers- Thanks for all the advice and observations.  I actually worked on 
it for a few hours yesterday afternoon and now I really don’t know what is 
going on.  I checked the mast with no backstay on and it still showed a few 
inches of rake.  The forestay had a significant arc to it and felt very loose.  
I had previously taken most of the tension off the shrouds.  I tried to pull 
one side of the split backstay and could not pull it far enough to pin it.  I 
don’t know how you could possibly do this with the adjuster attached as there 
is no way to get it out of the way and near a neutral position until both 
backstays are attached- so I took it off.  Then I let off the mainsheet and 
vang, attached the halyard to the end of the boom and cranked the boom down 
with the winch.  I looked at the forestay and it was still very slack.  I 
loosened the shrouds more, but no change.  I still could not pull it down 
enough to attach one side, let alone both.  So I rigged a mini block and tackle 
between the U bolt and the turnbuckle and was able to pull it down enough and 
hold it while I got the pin in.  With another person there leaning on the wire, 
I might have been able to do it without the block and tackle, but since the 
boat is in the water, it is hard to get in position to pull on the wire and put 
the pin in at the same time.  I ran out of time to try the other side, but it 
seems like something is not right with the rig if it is this hard.  I have not 
changed anything related to this since I bought the boat, so I find this very 
confusing.  I doubt C&C designed it to be this hard and there would be no 
reason to since you could just make the backstay longer.  One other thing for 
those who have other C&C designs.  Unlike my previous 34, there are no deck 
level wood blocks to adjust mast rake, nor any adjustment on the mast foot.  
The mast goes through a hole in the deck that is the size of the mast, so no 
rake adjustment there.
Anyway, I decided to contact a local rigger I have worked with to see if he can 
help figure out what is going on.  I will report back when we have it sorted 
out.  Thanks- Dave

On May 11, 2017, at 4:59 PM, robert 
mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>> wrote:

David:

When my two back stay turn buckles are tensioned to where I like them, no 
adjuster pulled on, there is approx. 2" showing on each one on the inside of 
the turn buckle.I 

Re: Stus-List c&c 30 3 questions

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi Lisle,

The 30 mk II is a very nice boat, few years ago we did a road trip to Halifax 
to see tree of them that were for sale being sure that we would find a good one.
I had previously exchanged a lot of mails with Allan Rhéaume that was active on 
the list back then.
 We ended up choosing a 33 mkII. For us, with no kid, the V berth definitely 
felt cramped in the 30, even for a still young couple of medium size. The 
interior layout also bring the salon forward and it also felt a bit small. The 
back cabin is nice, but it doesn't have the ventilation of a front cabin. And 
the 33 mkiii is faster! But with more draft, which we learned to live with. It 
is a more dated design, corner kitchen, no enclosed aft cabin, but it feels 
large and open and has a decent nav table. More storage too. Anyways I'm not 
trying to convince you not to buy it, but do stay pragmatic looking at the boat 
qualities and flaws.

On paper we fell in love with the 30 mkII, but for us the layout was not as 
good as we thought, this "back then euro style" must be super in the 34+.

As for the rudder rebuild, I did mine two years ago and choose to go with 
Phil's foils at Fast composite. The reuse the rudder stock to build a new one. 
Check the video on their web site, very happy with the new rudder, it feels 
amazing, precision in the shape of the foil do make a difference if you are 
into racing or just like to feel your steering.

http://www.fastcomposites.ca/site/marine/foils-a-z/

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
New Richmond, Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 23 oct. 2017 à 22:57, Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Hi Maurice,

You and I are in the (almost) same boat. :)

I'm considering a 1987 C&C30 mkii and posted some recent questions (in past 2 
months) on it here and the listmates have been exceedingly helpful as I think 
through the options.

The one I'm looking at is in good shape except the rudder has considerable 
water intrusion. I got a quote for 2-2.5k to recore and glass the rudder 
locally or 5k for South Shore to make a new one in 4-5 weeks.

Which one are you considering?

When I visited the boat with my 6 year old son, we laid together in the forward 
berth. I could see personally sleeping with a small child up front but I didn't 
think it would work with 2 adults. The aft berth is definitely more roomy and 
would fit 2 adults snugly I think and several members commented on this feature 
relative to comparable boats.

FWIW, in talking with the surveyor and I mentioned that eventually I'd be 
interested in taking it south to the bahamas etc  (we can dream, right?), he 
said without hesitation that it would be capable of making that trip. The sail 
maker I spoke with wasn't as enthusiastic about it and characterized it more as 
a coastal cruiser/racer.

Best,

Lisle

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2017 11:27:53 -0400
From: mp...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 30 MKII
Message-ID: 
<15f49d8eb7d-c0f-f...@webjas-vaa086.srv.aolmail.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Greetings,

New to the list and hoping to be a new owner for a C&C 30 MKii 1988. It is a 
nicely appointed sailboat in great shape for its age and no visible, walk away 
concerns.  I was hoping for comments from anyone with experience and insights 
to offer, peeves, joys etc.  that would be super appreciated.

3 quick questions though:

1) knowing the boat, what would be a definite concern that you would look at, 
stuff that has failed or gives grief?
2) The front berth dimension is difficult to assess but it is sufficient for a 
couple of average size, height?
3) Would you do a jump to the Caribbean from the ICW on such a boat?

Such a nice cruiser/racer though!

Thank you for any information you can share!

Maurice Poulin



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All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Lower rudder bearing C&C33 ii

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Mike,

I also own a 33 mk II and i have dropped my rudder before. How much play is too 
much depends of you, for me more than 1/4 would be bothering. The bottom sleeve 
bearing is not bronze, and there is also  Delrin spacer there sitting on top of 
the rudder.

There is no "seal". I suspect the top of the type to be over the water line and 
the grease makes for the seal. I have a grease port on mine and I never had any 
water ingress from there.

My rudder was still tight and the sleeve bearing seemed in good condition with 
no scratch so I did not replaced it. It is a tight fit and I guess it must be 
hard to remove.

I did have a bit of play, but I have replaced the top Delrin friction ring ( 
made by Polyalto, Qc), quite expensive, very exact measurement, you don't need 
that but I did not know another supplier). This piece was worn as the SS pin 
itself that even had a flat worn surface, I had flipped the pin before it was a 
little tiny bit loose in the rudder post hole and wanted it to look nice and 
new so I had a machine shop turn a new oneto fit the hole perfectly. I also had 
the plastic ring made a bit thicker. With these new parts, a clean tube and new 
grease I now have a tight and buttery smooth rudder.

While I was at it I also checked my quadrant, cleaned it and replaced my 
steering cables, chain, brake, etc... with the Edson rebuild kit.

I' very happy I did this, smooth steering is nice and I know I can thrust my 
steering system.

Good luck.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
New Richmond, Qc.

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 11 nov. 2017 à 18:10, mike amirault via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Hi folks. I have noticed a bit of play in my rudder, probably ¼” to 3/8” 
deflection at the very bottom.  I am contemplating dropping the rudder for a 
closer inspection and possible bearing replacement.
I have removed the top bearing (easy) and found that it has a Delrin (probably) 
bushing  2 3/8” i.d. x  2 ¾” o.d.  That bushing  has some wear and is easily 
replaceable.
A  few questions:

1.   How much play is too much?

2.   Is the bottom bearing Delrin or Bronze?

3.   Is there a water seal above the bottom bearing?

4.   Does anyone have a source for new bearings?

5.   Does anyone have photos or write up of repairs (on any size c&c )

All suggestions greatly appreciated.

Mike Amirault
C&C33 ii Lovely Cruise
SMSC (NS)
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Re: Stus-List asymmetrical furling

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi Bill,

I am with Mike on this one. I have a 3 ft selden bowsprit on my 33 mkII and a 
Facnor asym furler from 2014 that is used with a 92 square meters running asym. 
We were aware from the beginning this was a compromise, but it allows us to use 
a big asym short handed and I like it!

I have experience the same issues described by Mike. It is easy to use when 
cruising short handed and when you can take the time to have a good even furl 
with no backspin on the torque rope. But for short races, it is slow to furl 
and also easy to make mistakes and then you are in trouble. I would probably 
choose a good sock over a furler if I had to do it again. It is cheaper, faster 
and I don't think that you will have more problems with a sock if handled 
properly.

My rigger says the newer generation of torque rope is better and less prone to 
what I call twist and backspin which leads to what Mike explains with some 
parts of the sail furling and other unfurling... but the torque rope is 
expensive so I have learn to deal with it. We are very careful when fueling, 
especially is the  sail is very loaded.

The sprit is very nice though, 3 sec penalty on my rating.

Maybe the new generation is better. The profurl spinex with the plastic balls 
may be faster. Does anybody has experience with other brands?

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
New Richmond, Qc.

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 24 nov. 2017 à 13:36, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Hi Bill

I sailed on a boat with a furling asymmetrical spinnaker.  This system was new 
in 2011.  We had some issues when unfurling.  If it was not furled exactly 
right then somehow one section would be furling while another unfurling.  We 
did sort that out and the next year this was the sail used in cruising class 
Newport to Bermuda.  The kinks were worked out and we had no issues.

One thing with that system is that it took a LONG time to furl in the sail.  
This may make it impractical for races with short legs.

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William 
Walker via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2017 12:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List asymmetrical furling


I would be interested in hearing others with experience with top down  furlers 
for asym sail.  I frequently race and sail shorthanded and would love to fly my 
asym on occasion.  I have no problem, even single handed when day sailing,  but 
when racing shorthanded transition at a mark rounding between asym and headsail 
is tough.
I am particularly interested in manner of attachment out front of furling genny 
but without addition of sprit and how that may be accomplished.  To have no 
impact on my phrf, tack must attach no more than 12 inches in front of furler.  
The bow casting seems substantial but I am uncertain if drilling through and 
attaching shackle is wise.
Thanks in advance.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater Mi
Lake MICHIGAN

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

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Re: Stus-List asymmetrical furling

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Rod,

Mine extends 3 ft past the headstay. More than that and i would have more than 
3sec penalty, and i can say that it is plenty. If I remember right, maybe it 
was also max length recommended by selden unsupported, from where the bow ring 
bracket could be installed on deck.
I have the selden 87 mm with no bobstay. It is stiff but you can definitely see 
it bend upward with the tension needed so the the furler torque rope works 
properly. I avoid reaching, the asym  I have is not cut for this anyways.

Another drawback of this system is that it requires a special setup to be able 
to ease the tack point. I sometime ease the haylard if the wind is soft and 
that I want to run deeper angles.

Bruno.

Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
_
From: Rod Stright mailto:strig...@eastlink.ca>>
Sent: samedi, novembre 25, 2017 5:54 AM
Subject: RE: Stus-List asymmetrical furling
To: mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com>>


How far does the sprit extend past the headstay?  I have a 4’ section of carbon 
fibre (1.75” OD) I am thinking about fitting I would need something like the 
seldom chocks you have an likely a bobstay.

From: CnC-List [ CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of 
Bruno Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: November-24-17 10:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Bruno Lachance 
mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List asymmetrical furling

Hi Bill,

I am with Mike on this one. I have a 3 ft selden bowsprit on my 33 mkII and a 
Facnor asym furler from 2014 that is used with a 92 square meters running asym. 
We were aware from the beginning this was a compromise, but it allows us to use 
a big asym short handed and I like it!

I have experience the same issues described by Mike. It is easy to use when 
cruising short handed and when you can take the time to have a good even furl 
with no backspin on the torque rope. But for short races, it is slow to furl 
and also easy to make mistakes and then you are in trouble. I would probably 
choose a good sock over a furler if I had to do it again. It is cheaper, faster 
and I don't think that you will have more problems with a sock if handled 
properly.

My rigger says the newer generation of torque rope is better and less prone to 
what I call twist and backspin which leads to what Mike explains with some 
parts of the sail furling and other unfurling... but the torque rope is 
expensive so I have learn to deal with it. We are very careful when fueling, 
especially is the  sail is very loaded.

The sprit is very nice though, 3 sec penalty on my rating.

Maybe the new generation is better. The profurl spinex with the plastic balls 
may be faster. Does anybody has experience with other brands?

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
New Richmond, Qc.

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 24 nov. 2017 à 13:36, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :
Hi Bill

I sailed on a boat with a furling asymmetrical spinnaker.  This system was new 
in 2011.  We had some issues when unfurling.  If it was not furled exactly 
right then somehow one section would be furling while another unfurling.  We 
did sort that out and the next year this was the sail used in cruising class 
Newport to Bermuda.  The kinks were worked out and we had no issues.

One thing with that system is that it took a LONG time to furl in the sail.  
This may make it impractical for races with short legs.

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of William 
Walker via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2017 12:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com<mailto:wwadjo...@aol.com>
Subject: Stus-List asymmetrical furling


I would be interested in hearing others with experience with top down  furlers 
for asym sail.  I frequently race and sail shorthanded and would love to fly my 
asym on occasion.  I have no problem, even single handed when day sailing,  but 
when racing shorthanded transition at a mark rounding between asym and headsail 
is tough.
I am particularly interested in manner of attachment out front of furling genny 
but without addition of sprit and how that may be accomplished.  To have no 
impact on my phrf, tack must attach no more than 12 inches in front of furler.  
The bow casting seems substantial but I am uncertain if drilling through and 
attaching shackle is wise.
Thanks in advance.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater Mi
Lake MICHIGAN

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
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Re: Stus-List C&C 40 for sale

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Andy,

If you are talking about me there, I'm sorry to tell you that I can't join you 
"ex c&c owners club" as we still hold on our beloved 33 mkII Bécassine. We were 
just looking to buy a boat to cruise the Carribean this year while Bécassine is 
asleep up north and then sale the big boat at the end of our trip. In our 
search I even contacted a 37+ owner after I made a research to find him (boat 
name: Pisces). We asked him if he would be ready to sell his boat, no luck.

Long story short, as you know, we were first engaged to buy a 2003 Jeanneau 
sunfast 43, but decided to remove ourselves from the  buying process because of 
structural issues with the boat. we then look at a 2005 sun odyssey 40, and 
Dufour 40 performance. But finally we had an opportunity to rent a 2008 RM 1200 
that is crossing the Atlantic right now. We are currently in Martinique and 
should get the boat from December 22nd to July 30th. So plenty of time to 
cruise around. This is the best scenario, at the end we just give back the keys 
and go back home. The idea to be stuck with a 100k $ boat for sale at the end 
of our trip was not the exciting part.

Th 33 mkII is still perfect for the sailing we do back home.

Sorry to let you down ;) but I'm sure you don't have to be afraid to show at a 
C&C rendez-vous.

Good luck in finding Peregrine a new home, I'm sure that you will find the 
lucky new owner soon. She looks great and seems to be in pretty good shape!

Please tell us what's the new ride asap.

Bruno
Bécassine, c&c 33 mkII
New Richmond, Qc

Get Outlook for iOS
_
From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: samedi, décembre 9, 2017 11:23 AM
Subject: Stus-List C&C 40 for sale
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Andrew Burton mailto:a.burton.sai...@gmail.com>>


Good morning, all. My wife has a web site up to help sell Peregrine.
I think I have her priced very reasonably (Peregrine, not my wife...though, 
come to think of it...no...just Peregrine). I would be interested in any input 
from the assembled group.
I will be sorry to part with her, but the new boat has extra cabins for kids 
and parents that my wife wants. I hate to leave the fold, though. Maybe Danny, 
Bruno, and I can show up at rendezvous as sort of auxiliary C&Cs?
https://aburtonsailor.wixsite.com/peregrine

Cheers
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260


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Re: Stus-List new haylards

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

If you want to go the performance route, race your boat and spend more $ and if 
your sheeves allow it has previously stated, You can go full dyneema.

In this range I have Samson MLX for jib halyard and Cousin Dyneestar for main. 
Comparing the two I prefer the Cousin product, have not compared numbers, but 
feels less stretch, less prone to kink and easier on the hand.

Very good performance line.

Bruno.

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 10 déc. 2017 à 09:36, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :


When I replaced my halards (main and headsail) I used the same wire rope combo 
that was original with the boat.

I race lightly, and cruise.  Definitely it was the cheapest option.  My rigger 
had indicated that a good inspection of the sheaves at the
crane should be done if going to an all rope version, as sometimes the wire 
will have chewed into the sheaves which will cause
it to chew into your new expensive rope.  Also, you would need to check to see 
if the new rope halyard would fit in the sheaves properly,
ie the shoulders and tracke of the sheave are wide enough to accept the rope 
halardy.  Probably saved me a few hundred bucks and
works just fine.  If you go the all rope route and need to replace your 
sheaves, Zypherwerks can make them for your:

http://www.zephyrwerks.com/sheaves.html


Not sure what you mean my foresail, perhaps Spinnaker?  Those are external run 
on my boat and lead to a block outside forward part of the
crane.  I'd like to get them a little further out, but haven't gotten to that 
project yet, as if the Spin isn't fully flying it can get snagged in the 
headsail

when furling itbut with a little training everything works just ifne.  My 
spin halards are all rope based XLS, which I know has more stretch than
other lines, but then again I'm not racing for americas cup...just around the 
buoys for some fun.


Hope this helps in your decision process.


--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax

On 12/10/2017 7:08 AM, T power via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Everyone,


I'm looking to replace my foresail and headsail halyard on my C&C 30 MKI, my 
foresail is a combination of wire and rope. The boat is used by new sailor for 
cruising.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Cheers


Tom Power
Invictus
C&C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB



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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

The pump under the port sette could be the « shower » sump pump. Does the hose 
goes that way? Mine exits on the port side.

Bruno Lachance

1987 33 mkii
Bécassine

Obtenez Outlook pour iOS

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 1, 2018 6:40:09 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

The PO probably had an extra electric bilge pump which has since been removed.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 11:58 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

I have a 1986 C&C 33 MK II.  As well as the electric bilge pump I have the 
usual Manual bilge pump in the cockpit.  In addition, there is another manual 
bilge pump in the cabin mounted under the Port side settee along the forward 
bulkhead.  This cabin bulge pump hose runs to the cockpit bilge pump which then 
discharges to a through hull just under the transom.  The curious part is that 
there are two thru hulls, side by side under the transom.  The second thru hull 
has a bilge hose which runs forward and dead ends in the bilge with no pump or 
fittings between the ends.  No other 33 MK II in my harbour has this second 
through hull or "dead end" hose.  Does anyone know why this hose is present?

many thanks,  Wade
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Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

If you mean you have water seeping trough the laminate of the GRP keel sump 
area « wall » port or starboard, that means you have crack in the laminate, due 
to an impact or « fatigue ». This is bad and the boat should be hauled out for 
inspection and repair. On my 87 33 I found these sump walls were ok, but a bit 
thin to my liking, so I added some thickness from inside, reinforcing the 
shoulders of the sump too.


If the water comes from aft of the sump or the front, you have a crack too, but 
less stressful from  a safety standpoint.

Aft, the water may come from aft keel bolt, embedded in putty, with a 1/2 ply 
to form the sump area. This can suck water from a leak, fracture, rot and 
eventually water ends into the bilge.
I had this problem and made the repair and decided to go a bit further 
reinforcing the whole sump.

Front of the sump, same issue: keel bolt leak, rotted putty and the plywood, 
forward « wall » of the sump. plus the water from the mast.

Good luck.

Bruno
Bécassine, 87 33 mkii
New Richmond, qc.


Obtenez Outlook pour iOS

From: CnC-List  on behalf of robert via CnC-List 

Sent: Monday, May 7, 2018 9:51:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

Ray,
Don't quite understand when you say " water is seeping in from the walls of the 
bilge."  Are you sure the water is not coming from around the keel bolts?

There is no way water is coming in from the bottom of the keelwhile your 
boat is on the lift, that would be the time to clean it and paint with 
antifouling.

If there is that much water coming into the bilge, you have to find out where 
it is coming from and address it.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-05-07 10:32 AM, Raymond Macklin via CnC-List wrote:
Hello:

It is that time of season for the big Splash.  I have run into an issue since I 
put it in the water.  My bilge pump is running continuously.  I took a close 
look and I am noticing the water is seeping in from the walls of the bilge. 
Prior to launching I took a real close look at the keel.  I saw no issues, no 
smile, nothing.  The only part I did notice was the very bottom of the keel.  
Since the keel rests on the bottom of the cradle, I cannot do much inspection 
prior.  This time I happen to see it while on the lift.  I was not a smooth 
like the sides of the keel.  In fact it was not good at all. Does that sound 
right.  I see now water coming from any other area.  Anybody have an 
recommendations on what to do?

Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee WI.



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Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

If you saw that the tip of the keel, the bottom was rough and not looking good, 
it sounds like a case of grounding = damaged fiberglass sump.

Of course the water can not travel into the lead part of the keel.

If you can see the water coming in trough the laminate, it is coming from 
outside. If it comes from the hollow stringers, look for leaks from other 
sources as well as suggested by others.

The good news is that the 33 mk ii has no balsa core in that area, so fairly 
simple to repair. A friend of my who has a 35 mkiii had a small leak in the 
sump via a small crack. He then found upon inspection that the cored hull 
around the keel was saturated with water. Very extensive and expensive repair 
to rebuild the whole area.

Bruno

Obtenez Outlook pour iOS

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, May 7, 2018 12:10:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

The bottom of the keel should be all lead and will have nothing to do with 
water entering the bilge.  Sounds like you may have a leak that’s running into 
the bilge from somewhere else.  Suggest checking all thru-hull fittings, hoses, 
clamps, etc.

From: Raymond Macklin via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2018 9:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Raymond Macklin
Subject: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

Hello:

It is that time of season for the big Splash.  I have run into an issue since I 
put it in the water.  My bilge pump is running continuously.  I took a close 
look and I am noticing the water is seeping in from the walls of the bilge. 
Prior to launching I took a real close look at the keel.  I saw no issues, no 
smile, nothing.  The only part I did notice was the very bottom of the keel.  
Since the keel rests on the bottom of the cradle, I cannot do much inspection 
prior.  This time I happen to see it while on the lift.  I was not a smooth 
like the sides of the keel.  In fact it was not good at all. Does that sound 
right.  I see now water coming from any other area.  Anybody have an 
recommendations on what to do?

Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee WI.


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Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Mike,

The story began with a small crack at the top aft of the sump, in front of the 
aft keel bolt, on which the wascher and nut was also sinking a bit. I starded 
grinding the area . I ended up grinding the gel coat around the sump and then 
yes, I added layers of 1708 cloth with epoxy.

The best job would have been to drop the keel and add multiple layers from one 
side to the others covering the bottom. What I did was less labor intensive. 
After sanding I added layers to the sump going from maybe 6-8 inches on each 
side of the sump ( flat secto the bottom of the walls. I also strengthened the 
stringers in this area alternating my layers to better spread the loads. The 
stringer that bridges the sump was very thin.

It is a bit hard to describe, hope you get the idea.

The mast step is next job on the list. Next fall. Will do it like another 
lister did on his 33. Can’t remember the name right now.

Obtenez Outlook pour iOS

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Michael Crombie via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, May 7, 2018 1:47:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Crombie
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

Hi Ray,

I had the same problem with my 33.  I think it was due to 2 issues...1. The PO 
had a hard grounding at some point  and 2 the 33 mkii mast steps need to be 
strengthened. My mast was compressing the step.

Your description matches mine exactly...water seeping in the side walls of the 
bilge.

Anyway, i was able to sail for a season, but at the end of the season I sailed 
straight over to a good yard. They rebuilt the mast step,  dropped the keel, 
and did some other repairs. This was $$.  After the job i still had a tiny bit 
of ingress, but i sanded all around where the repair work was done, barrier 
coated it and now have a dry bilge.

Bruno has got me thinking about strenghening the bilge.  How did you do this 
Bruno?  Did you you lay down a few layers of glass cloth?

Mike


On Mon, May 7, 2018, 9:33 AM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List, 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello:

It is that time of season for the big Splash.  I have run into an issue since I 
put it in the water.  My bilge pump is running continuously.  I took a close 
look and I am noticing the water is seeping in from the walls of the bilge. 
Prior to launching I took a real close look at the keel.  I saw no issues, no 
smile, nothing.  The only part I did notice was the very bottom of the keel.  
Since the keel rests on the bottom of the cradle, I cannot do much inspection 
prior.  This time I happen to see it while on the lift.  I was not a smooth 
like the sides of the keel.  In fact it was not good at all. Does that sound 
right.  I see now water coming from any other area.  Anybody have an 
recommendations on what to do?

Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee WI.
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Re: Stus-List Securing bimini frame with Shock cord 33-2

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

On our 33 mkII, the main sheet is attached to a spectra webbing that goes 
around the boom, we can move it a bit aft and forward and it clears the dodger. 
It is amazing that the strand doesn't slip that much, never had a problem with 
this setup.

Bruno Lachance
Becassine, 33 mkII
New Richmond, Qc.

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 28 juin 2018 à 10:16, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Mike what is the problem with the boom bail being a foot or so farther aft. I 
intentionally moved it aft on my 35 MKII which also has a bridgedeck traveller 
for the main sheet


On Thu, Jun 28, 2018 at 10:49 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Dave

Persistence also has a dodger, bimini and connector.  The Frers 33 has almost 
identical cockpit and layout to 33-2.

On Persistence the bimini connector also can only be used when main is not in 
use and we have to move mainsheet to toe rail.

On Persistence we cannot the main sheet is also interfered with by dodger as we 
have bridge deck traveler in same location as 33-2.  Actually the Frers 
traveler is forward on the bridge deck where the 33-2 is a couple of inches 
further aft.  The boom bail must be moved aft one foot when sailing with dodger 
compared to ideal position where it is located when dodger is not on the boat.  
Not sure if this is an option for you.  I could send pictures if you are 
interested.

Note that the dodger, bimini and connector are not on the boat at this time as 
it is mostly racing time for us this time of year but that canvas is certainly 
nice for cruising and deliveries!

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
1987 Frers 33 #16
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of syerdave via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2018 6:09 AM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Cc: syerdave
Subject: Stus-List Securing bimini frame with Shock cord 33-2



Finally Updating the boat blog.   Happy with this solution to an ongoing 
irritant.

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2018/06/more-fun-with-shock-cord.html

Dave 33-2 Windstar



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Re: Stus-List Touche' hydraulic backstay adjuster repair

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

I have to share my experience about backstay aduster. Two years ago, after the 
unit completely release with no pressure in the middle of the Northumberland 
straith,   I decided to send my navtec unit to Southshore in Ontario. They are 
supposed to be the best around, I did not want to cheap on that and decided to 
pay the big money to have it fixed by a pro.

But when I had the unit back, it was already leaking in the box... so I called 
them and they told me to send them the unit again.I paid the shipping fees and 
returned the unit. After a while it came back, "repaired" with a written note 
saying that the rod was scored and that the unit will probably leak again in a 
near future. Apparently it was not possible to polish it, but they did not feel 
it was a good idea to call me before doing the temporary fix.

Well, thank you very much for informing me after I was something like 600 can $ 
out. ( repair plus shipping cost) Knowing that first, I would have never paid 
to have it repaired, two times!! Was it scratched by them during the repair? I 
will never know. But they did send me a "free" seal, you know the one that 
everybody say they cost 50 cents. Yes I was and I am still a bit bitter about 
it.

It still holds pressure for a while, but I have to pump it back often and fluid 
leaks on the transom which is very annoying, and not safe.

I am thinking about replacing the whole thing with a cascading system. I lost 
confidence in my navtec cylinder.

Almost everybody on this list seems to have luck with their repair, even when 
done by the non navtec certified tech. Good for you, but I wanted to share that 
it can be different when you try to repair a 1987 unit.

I wish you all the best with your unit, they are nice when they do work!

Bruno Lachance
Becassine, 33mkii
New Richmond, Qc.

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 28 juin 2018 à 09:41, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Hi Dennis

If it has lasted 18 years and you have it rebuilt you may not have to worry 
about it 18 years from now.  Likely if you did and emailed this list at that 
time it would be an entirely different group reading and responding as well.  
There would likely be no one left to say “I told you so”

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2018 4:57 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Touche' hydraulic backstay adjuster repair

First, thanks to the list for all the helpful advice, on and off list.

OK, decision made.  Lots learned.  Lots of thought given.

First, a hydraulic backstay adjuster is just a hydraulic ram.  Any good 
hydraulic shop should be able to fix the leak.  I took the adjuster to a local 
shop and they said they could "probably" fix the leak.  They wanted $125 
minimum.  I didn't get a warm, fuzzy feeling that "Bubba" understood the 
exposure to saltwater, the importance of stainless parts, etc.

So I gave it a bit more thought.  My adjuster is 18 years old.  It has been 
exposed to the elements for those 18 years.  My research suggests that the root 
cause is probably deterioration of the top seal.  It is exposed to UV.  Once 
the top seal fails, grit may enter the unit and then cause damage to the piston 
seals resulting in leakage and failure.  Further, if not fixed properly, the 
grit may score the cylinder, rendering the unit unfixable.  So, we may be 
dealing with more than just a "leak".

Given that, I decided to opt for a full rebuild rather than let Bubba fix only 
the leak.  After talking with Lew Townsend and a few other Navtec agents, the 
pricing seems to be in the $350-400 range.  The seal kit is about $100 online.

Right now, it's on it's way to Stix-N-Rig'n in Kemah, TX.  They have good 
online reviews and seemed knowledgeable and competent.  Hopefully, I'll get a 
good fix and a quick turnaround.  I'll let the list know how it goes.

As a final note, I need to figure a way to protect the top seal from UV 
exposure.  I might find a proper size plastic washer or plastic or PVC cap and 
slip it down the rod so it sits on top of the cylinder and shades the seal.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Refrig

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

If you have fast frosting after you start the system, the compressor or a leak 
might not be the problem, have you replaced the evaporator too 3 years ago? 
Then can clog and give you uneven frosting. I heard that some people/ pro can 
clean/purge them, but once it stats it might happen again and should be 
replaced.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
New Richmond, Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 13 juil. 2018 à 21:43, Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Sorry I have limited data.  But there is a way to connect a led light to the 
controller to see if there are any faults.  Just google it.  Mine was the 
controller.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

On Jul 13, 2018, at 6:47 PM, David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

So.  3 year old old Danfoss 12 volt refrig.   Last one lasted us  20 plus 
years.  This one...?   Worked great until this year.  Start it up.  Fan is 
going and we get frosting at the evaporator at where the tubes enter.   But not 
consistent throughout evaporator.  If a coolant leak would we get any frosting 
of evap at all?

Voltage is 12.5 or better .

Thanks in advance.

Get Outlook for Android

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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

We have owned our boat for 8 years now.

Bécassine
33mkII, 1987, HN 166
New-Richmond, Qc
Canada

Had a 1983 C&C 29mkii from 2008-2010.

Bruno Lachance.

Envoyé de mon iPad
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Fundraising time

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Stu,

I just made an order on the website and was wondering if I can send you the 
money (54.50) by PayPal or e transfer? I would like to add 10$ as donation.

Thank you!

Bruno lachance

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 15 oct. 2018 à 20:04, Stu via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Don’t forget that October is the fund-raising time for this list and the C&C 
Photo Album.  So far, some people have shown their appreciation am I am sure 
there are more that want to help.

Your help in defraying some of my expenses by contributing to the cause is 
greatly appreciated.  As long as I can keep my head above water, the list will 
stay active.

Thanks in advance
Stu

Checks, money orders, etc.  please make payable to:
Stu Murray
33 Langton Rd
London, ON, CA
N5V 2L9

PayPal --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

E-transfer (Canadian banks)  send to s...@cncphotoalbum.com



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Re: Stus-List Fundraising time

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Sorry my last email was for Stu and not for the list. Please delete.

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 15 oct. 2018 à 20:56, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Stu,

I just made an order on the website and was wondering if I can send you the 
money (54.50) by PayPal or e transfer? I would like to add 10$ as donation.

Thank you!

Bruno lachance

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 15 oct. 2018 à 20:04, Stu via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Don’t forget that October is the fund-raising time for this list and the C&C 
Photo Album.  So far, some people have shown their appreciation am I am sure 
there are more that want to help.

Your help in defraying some of my expenses by contributing to the cause is 
greatly appreciated.  As long as I can keep my head above water, the list will 
stay active.

Thanks in advance
Stu

Checks, money orders, etc.  please make payable to:
Stu Murray
33 Langton Rd
London, ON, CA
N5V 2L9

PayPal --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

E-transfer (Canadian banks)  send to s...@cncphotoalbum.com



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Re: Stus-List C&C 33-2: PYI shaft seal

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Yes, I did it 3 years ago. The first project was to replace the leaking 
transmission seal so I had to remove the coupling. I ended up replacing 
everything: seal, new split coupling by Buck Algonquin, new shaft and a PYI 
dripless.

 It is pretty tight but it fits, I think the new coupling is a bit shorter than 
the original.

If I had to do it again, I might just replace the packing with the last 
synthetic gland that is supposed to be more durable and pretty much dripless.

Good luck!

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
New Richmond, Qc.
Canada 

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 18 oct. 2018 à 20:49, Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List 
>  a écrit :
> 
> Any 33-2 owners with the PYI dripless shaft seal?
> 
> Will it fit?
> 
> We're looking at overhauling the packing gland and considering replacing it 
> altogether.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Adrian Humphreys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Sailing Racing courses in BVI

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

There is a lot of companies offering places for racing in the BVI Spring 
regatta, some offer one or two days practice onboard prior to the regatta to 
get familiar with the boat and the crew.


It's not really a "racing school", where you will learn stuff like how to get a 
good start, and match racing tactics, but it is a good intro to racing on 
bigger boats. Imagine doing that with a bunch on friends and race in the 
Carribean on something else than a bareboat! these boats are usually fairly 
competitive with competent skippers.


I've done the BVI spring regatta in 2012 and the Heineken in st-Maarteen in 
2013. Both times on private boats in the spin class. It is really a lot of fun. 
Hard to beat.


Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33 mkII

New-Richmond, Qc.



De : CnC-List  de la part de Chuck Gilchrest via 
CnC-List 
Envoyé : 21 septembre 2016 20:13
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc : Chuck Gilchrest
Objet : Re: Stus-List Sailing Racing courses in BVI


Offshore Sailing School in the BVI has this starting this December.

http://www.sailingworld.com/new-racing-clinic-by-offshore-sailing-school?dom=rss-default&src=syn

[http://www.sailingworld.com/sites/sailingworld.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/images/2016/08/3.1a_scrubisland_slide_12_learning_to_sail_700x465.jpg?itok=-4GATDqW]

New Racing Clinic by Offshore Sailing 
School
www.sailingworld.com
Offshore Sailing School will host a new racing course in the BVI this December.



Will be taught in Colgate 26's.  I don't know of any "schools" outside of 
Oakcliff that offer racing instruction in any boats approaching 40' or more.  
Not sure it ticks all the boxes, but it is a start..

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2016 3:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing Racing courses in BVI



>From the silence there must be a business opportunity there!



I think Colgate and possibly JWorld run programs in Florida.



Joel



On Wed, Sep 21, 2016 at 11:50 AM, Pat MacDonald via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi
A number of us in Canada like to head to the BVI for the winter to do some
sailing.  We are also avid racers and want to expand our racing skills by
taking some racing courses in keel boats that are at least 40+ '.  when
completed we may even want to participate in the Spring BVI Regatta held
each year in the BVI.
Does anyone know of a good racing school in the BVI?
All I can find is Rob Swain sailing School that seemed to have offered this
kind of course back in 2014.  Has anyone worked with the Swain course.
Opinions?
Thanks
Getting ready for winter
pat


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--

Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List C&C Polars Again

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Thank you very much Lee for sharing. Can you elaborate on the source of the 
data and your personal experience using it compared to real world in pure speed 
and VMG?

Thanks!

Bruno lachance
BEcassine, 33 mkII 1987
New Richmond,Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 28 sept. 2016 à 00:12, Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List  
> a écrit :
> 
> Attached are the polars for a C&C 33 MKII
> 
> Regards,
> Lee Rosenbaum
> Kookaburra
> C&C 33-2
> Kenosha, WI
> 
> -Original Message-
> Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2016 19:23:32 + (UTC)
> From: John McKay 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Polars Again
> Message-ID: <1607791233.409403.1475004212...@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Does anyone have the polars for a C&C 33 MK II?
> John on Enterprise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Pulling rod chainplate backing block on LF38

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Patrick,

I have faced the same kind of problem on my boat. It is not exactly the same 
style of chainplate, but the 33 mkII does have the same aluminum backing block, 
and it was not moving. I initially tried the wedge, the hammer... With no 
success. There was some white powder visible, sign of aluminum corrosion. I 
finally had success with white vinegar, injected with a syringe where I can, 
from the top of the deck and from below, and a soaked rag taped around the 
block. I repeated this procedure twice and wait... The day after, I was able to 
separate everything with a small tap on the bolt, clean and reassemble with 
good quality butyl. I was happy to find that the core was not exposed around 
the chainplate.

Good luck.

Bruno Lachance
Becassine, 1987 33mkII
New- Richmond, Qc.


Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 8 janv. 2017 à 11:45, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Anyone have experience pulling this style of chainplate? Photo uploaded here: 
https://svviolethour.com/chainplate/

Wally's site also has a good picture of one once it's open: 
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/newrig/cplates/cplates.htm

Wally says his were bedded in silicone, which probably made it really easy to 
pull, but mine don't appear to be silicone - some white sealant/adhesive which 
I'm afraid might be 4200 or in the worst case 5200. The backing block is 
adhered to the fiberglass deck undersurface, and to the bolts of the U-bolt.

But mostly it's hard to pull because the block has nothing good to grip on, and 
it's in a tight location with bulkheads / cabinetry blocking access to two 
sides.

Anyone have tips for how they did it? Did the backing block come off easily, or 
were there some tricks / gotchas?

I've tried: vice grips, flathead screwdrivers used as wedges and hammered on 
the end, heat gun, pulling up on the U-bolt above deck, and trying to pull down 
the backing block using the threaded rod itself (over-tensioning it - I stopped 
this before it got too scary - don't want to break it).

The next things I can try are: torch (stronger than a heat gun for melting 
glue, but I don't want to burn the fiberglass or set something on fire). More 
hammering on wedges.

-Patrick
1984 C&C LF38

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Re: Stus-List Round the Cape

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

This is sad, the Race the cape regatta was on my bucket list and we were 
planning to enter the 2018 edition during our sabbatical.

Hope they will find a way to continue, maybe downscale a bit.

Bruno Lachance
Becassine, 87 C&C 33 mk II
New Richmond, Qc.

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 21 janv. 2017 à 12:48, Tortuga via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

I'm sorry to be reading this article today.

http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/nova-scotia/sailing-funding-race-annual-tourism-1.3944767

Although I never took part, I benefited from the improvements that were made at 
Ingonish because of the regatta. I'm sure there are others too.

Derek Kennedy
1979 30 mk1- Tortuga
Ballantynes Cove, NS

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List putting teek hand rails back together - tips

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi,


On my boat, the exterior and interior handrails are offset. The PO wanted to be 
able to remove the exterior handrails during the winter months so he could do 
the varnish at home. He used thickened époxy to glue the bolts and teak plugs 
from the outside so they dont turn when he  put the nut on from the Inside of 
the cabin. In my boat i have plugs in the headliner covering the holes.


This ritual is now part of my routine, i remove the handrails every fall and 
bring them home. And each year my girlfriend gets better at refreshing the 
varnish on the handrails, cockpit table, and main hatch door (i know, i am a 
Lucky guy!)


Since i bought the boat in 2009, last year was the first year i had to deal 
with a free spinning bolt. I drilled the plug to undo, cleaned the hole and 
redo the job with thickened époxy,  new bolt and teak plug.


This works for me. BTW i bed my rails with a thin layer of fresh butyl each 
year. Easy to remove and clean.


It would also work with your setup, but if you want to remove then as i do, i 
guess you would need to live with recessed esxposed fasteners in the cabin...


Bruno Lachance

Becassine, 1987 33 mkII

New-Richmond, Qc





De : CnC-List  de la part de Joseph Bognar via 
CnC-List 
Envoyé : 21 mars 2017 13:18
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc : Joseph Bognar
Objet : Re: Stus-List putting teek hand rails back together - tips

I did this on my 79 30 Mk 1 also. A small flathead screwdriver in the hole will 
hold the nut from turning . If you are sealing the outer rails with 4200 or 
similar do not over-tighten the handrails . Just snug enough to squeeze a bit 
of sealant out then let it cure . Snug up after it has cured .

Sent from Joe Bognar


On Mar 21, 2017, at 12:05 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi Steve,

I'll be fastening Grenadine's new exterior handrails in a couple weeks.  She's 
a 30-1, hull #7, built September 1972.  I'm pretty sure her old handrails were 
original, and they were fastened with screws through the cabin top from the 
inside.  No bungs on the exterior handrails.  I drilled out the bungs from the 
interior handrails, which covered a long screw fastening both the interior and 
exterior handrails.  Then, under each interior handrail base, there were two 
more shorter screws fastening the exterior handrails.  I've got pictures of the 
project at https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTc093OExfMGRBX1E.

I know that doesn't address your specific question.  But maybe you could 
consider changing fasteners.  Instead of using bolts and nuts, maybe you could 
switch to using just screws from the inside?  You could fill and bung the holes 
in the exterior handrails as necessary.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO


From: "Steven Tattrie via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: "cnc-list" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: "Steven Tattrie" mailto:steven.tatt...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2017 10:45:40 AM
Subject: Stus-List putting teek hand rails back together - tips

Hello all,

I removed teak hand rails from my C&C30 MK1 1979 last fall. There is an inside 
and outside rail that are both fastened together by the same bolt and nut 
(inside nut). Both ends are recessed into the rail with teak plug to fill the 
hole.

I haven't tried to install them back yet however, I am wondering how I can hold 
the nut on the inside so that it does not turn keeping in mind that it is 
recessed into the wood and a socket/ wrench will not hold it (fit in the hole).

Any tips on this process!!

Steve



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https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List putting teek hand rails back together - tips

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Gary, your solution sounds even better, I doubt you will ever have the spinning 
issue. The only advantage I see in my setup is that I can set the handrail with 
the bolt aligned in the holes, push it down and then put the nuts from the 
inside all by myself. I don't know for you, but since the rail is curved, I 
always have to work the handrail a bit to align it with the holes.

I do however find some washers and nuts in the bilge that I had dropped, wish 
is sometimes frustrating and could cause a problem for the bilge pump...nothing 
is perfect!


Bruno Lachance

Becassine, 1987 33 mkII

New-Richmond, Qc




Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 22 mars 2017 à 13:10, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Bruno,
 I did the same thing on my 35 MkII, but I epoxied the nut in the hand 
rail, and inserted the 1/4"-20 screw up from the inside.  I used butyl "O" 
rings to seal.  It worked very well for me (for 18 years) and I never had 
trouble with the nut spinning.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah


~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Mar 21, 2017 at 3:20 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi,


On my boat, the exterior and interior handrails are offset. The PO wanted to be 
able to remove the exterior handrails during the winter months so he could do 
the varnish at home. He used thickened époxy to glue the bolts and teak plugs 
from the outside so they dont turn when he  put the nut on from the Inside of 
the cabin. In my boat i have plugs in the headliner covering the holes.


This ritual is now part of my routine, i remove the handrails every fall and 
bring them home. And each year my girlfriend gets better at refreshing the 
varnish on the handrails, cockpit table, and main hatch door (i know, i am a 
Lucky guy!)


Since i bought the boat in 2009, last year was the first year i had to deal 
with a free spinning bolt. I drilled the plug to undo, cleaned the hole and 
redo the job with thickened époxy,  new bolt and teak plug.


This works for me. BTW i bed my rails with a thin layer of fresh butyl each 
year. Easy to remove and clean.


It would also work with your setup, but if you want to remove then as i do, i 
guess you would need to live with recessed esxposed fasteners in the cabin...


Bruno Lachance

Becassine, 1987 33 mkII

New-Richmond, Qc





De : CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> de la 
part de Joseph Bognar via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Envoyé : 21 mars 2017 13:18
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc : Joseph Bognar
Objet : Re: Stus-List putting teek hand rails back together - tips

I did this on my 79 30 Mk 1 also. A small flathead screwdriver in the hole will 
hold the nut from turning . If you are sealing the outer rails with 4200 or 
similar do not over-tighten the handrails . Just snug enough to squeeze a bit 
of sealant out then let it cure . Snug up after it has cured .

Sent from Joe Bognar


On Mar 21, 2017, at 12:05 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi Steve,

I'll be fastening Grenadine's new exterior handrails in a couple weeks.  She's 
a 30-1, hull #7, built September 1972.  I'm pretty sure her old handrails were 
original, and they were fastened with screws through the cabin top from the 
inside.  No bungs on the exterior handrails.  I drilled out the bungs from the 
interior handrails, which covered a long screw fastening both the interior and 
exterior handrails.  Then, under each interior handrail base, there were two 
more shorter screws fastening the exterior handrails.  I've got pictures of the 
project at https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTc093OExfMGRBX1E.

I know that doesn't address your specific question.  But maybe you could 
consider changing fasteners.  Instead of using bolts and nuts, maybe you could 
switch to using just screws from the inside?  You could fill and bung the holes 
in the exterior handrails as necessary.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO


From: "Steven Tattrie via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: "cnc-list" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: "Steven Tattrie" mailto:steven.tatt...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2017 10:45:40 AM
Subject: Stus-List putting teek hand rails back together - tips

Hello all,

I removed teak hand rails from my C&C30 MK1 1979 last fall. There is an inside 
and outside rail that are both fastened together by the same bolt and nut 
(inside nut). Both ends are recessed into the rail with teak plug to fill the 
hole.

I haven't tried to install them back yet however, I am wondering how I can hold 
the nut on the inside so that it does not turn keeping in mind that it is 
recessed into the wood and a socket/ wrench will not hold it (fit in the ho

Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Dave,

I suggest you get your sails measured by your local sailmaker. He will be glad 
to do it if you bring them for a preseason inspection.

My sailmaker does not like to talk in term of no1-2-3 or %, he prefers to use 
the sail area measurements in square meters. This way you can really compare 
the horsepower of your sailplan and see what is missing to match the different 
wind conditions. This is really interesting in the design process of a new sail.

Becassine wardrobe was composed of a triradial cruising laminate "large" no. 3 
that equals 110% ( ok I admit I don't remember the m2...) the PO also had a 
light Mylar decksweeper no1 150%.

Like you I wanted to have a no2 and asked for a 135%. My sailmaker suggested a 
sail area that would just cleared in front of the top spreaders going close 
upwind. His model showed that this would perform better than a slightly larger 
135, as I would not be able to sheet it in as much clausehauled. The result was 
about 132%. I climbed the rig to double check every measurements to be sure he 
had the right ones. I have the Offshore spar mast on my boat

This sail is really nice, but honestly I don't use it as much as I thought I 
would. When racing I often choose to go big with the tired 150% or with the 110 
when it really blows. It seems I don't have much of the in between in my area. 
But when I do, I am first at the weather mark!

You are right that the 33-2 is really responsive to sail trim. Very rewarding 
little boat.

Bruno lachance
Becassine, 1987 33-2
New Richmond, Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 2 mai 2017 à 21:10, Syerdave--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

An interesting discussion, and agreed on that.   I don't like sailing under 
headsail alone, but would rather balance the sailplan, play the main sheet in 
the puffs and tweak the Main's twist and shape with the baby stay, outhaul, 
traveller.  vs many boats I've sailed the 33-2 is so responsive you can feel 
the impact of minor changes.   Really looking forward to flying my new main 
this season.   Keeping the helm light (balance) and the boat on its its feet 
(not overpowered) works best for me.
First I reef, then I furl, but I really hate the Furler  as a sail reduction 
device.   According to the sailbags, I have a #1 and #3.   There have been 
times I wished I had one in between, and it would probably be useful.   Don't 
know how these equate in terms of % of foretriangle.   Anyone know this for a 
33-2?
Several listers referred me to the "maximum sailpower" blog awhile back, and 
that was an eyeopener into many finer points of sail trim and design that I did 
not fully appreciate.
Looking forward to some warmer weather here

Dave 33-2 Windstar
Toronto area.

On May 2, 2017, at 8:09 PM, Jake Brodersen 
mailto:captain_j...@cox.net>> wrote:

Ron,

You are so right.  I have had several occasions when keeping the #1 genoa up, 
with a reef in the main, resulted in a very balanced (and under control) boat.

Jake



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B. 
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 12:24
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker mailto:rbfrer...@yahoo.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

I remember sailing a 35-2 in heavy air with jib and main and had to have more 
than 6deg of rudder angle to keep it going.  Seemed like we needed to take a 
tuck in the main and use a larger jib for better balance.
The old rule was "keep the power up front."
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL

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Re: Stus-List Aqua signal 25 direct LED replacement?

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Dave, 

Two years ago I found led bulb that were sold as replacements for the 
aquasignal 25. They were about the same price as a complete Victory fixture. 
The lenses of the existing aqua signal were still clear so I went for the led 
bulbs. After one season only, at least one side on the "tree sided bulb" were 
not working and they show sign of water ingress and corrosion .I did not had 
kept my receipt...

I will replace them with aquasignal 40 that I found with a good price. The hole 
pattern is different, I will have to drill one hole but they have a smaller 
footprint so they fit.  With the improve aero dynamic I should maybe gain 0.001 
knot.

Last year I replaced the stern light with a 40, and it is very efficient. But 
the look is not as "classic".

Bruno
Becassine, 1987 33 mkII 
New Richmond, Qc.



Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 7 mai 2017 à 13:32, Dave via CnC-List  a écrit :
> 
> Thanks Derek - will be interested in your opinion - iirc there was a line of 
> lights that uses standard twin lead electronics-type leds as a light source - 
> might be those.  Wasn't thinking about this project when I saw them (it was 
> at Nat's in Pickering I think).  
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On May 7, 2017, at 10:37 AM, Derek McLeod  wrote:
>> 
>> I ordered a set of Victory LED lights from Boulet Lemelin Yacht in Quebec 
>> and it appears they will fit the existing holes in the stainless brackets. I 
>> am also replacing Aqua Signal 25's. I can't really speak to the quality of 
>> them yet as they are not installed but they were very reasonably priced. I 
>> figure the UV exposure is going to take a toll on whatever product is 
>> installed. 
>> 
>> Derek McLeod 
>> 1983 C&C 29-2, Aileron 
>> Toronto
>> 
>>> On May 7, 2017, at 6:59 AM, Dave S  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi all - Windstar is enjoying new Marinebeam LED nav-lighting on the mast, 
>>> but still has the original aqua signal 25 (i think that's the series) 
>>> running lights mounted on the pulpit and pushpit.  Port starboard and 
>>> stern.  
>>> 
>>> Would like to avoid swiss-cheesing the existing mounting flanges, or 
>>> fabricating an adaptor plate, etc   changing the bulb is an option but 
>>> not my first choice. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> IS anyone aware of quality LED nav lights that are a direct 
>>> footprint-compatible replacement for the AS25?   
>>> 
>>> Dave
>>> 
>>> 
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Quick summary of LED nav lights currently available.

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Dave, I wrote in a previous post that I had replaced my AS 25 with 40. My 
mistake, i was talking about the led 33 series. Different look, but smaller and 
not too flashy. Quality seems good.

I can tell you that the victory looks cheap, are big and boxy looking and feel. 
My opinion, that was the reason I first tried to find replacement bulbs for my 
old fixtures. Marine beam seems to be a good brand.

Keep us posted on your decision for Windstar.

Bruno lachance
Becassine, 1987 33 mkII

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 8 mai 2017 à 22:20, Dave S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2017/05/summary-of-available-led-navigation.html

Thanks all for your assistance in this.

Dave
33-2 Windstar.


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Stus-List How to wire propane detector

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi,


I want to install a propane detector and i wanted to ask the list how to do it 
properly. Does it have to be wired to the battery like a bilge pump or i can 
wire it to the solenoid switch ?


Is there a safety code that appplies ?


i plan to install it as low as possible near the stove.


Thanks.


Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 C&C 33 mkII

New-Richmond, Qc.



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Re: Stus-List How to wire propane detector

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Thank you Ron, i see that i can use the propane system circuit. This is 
convenient.



Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 C&C 33 mkII

New-Richmond, Qc.


De : Ron Ricci 
Envoyé : 15 mai 2017 11:09
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc : 'Bruno Lachance'
Objet : RE: Stus-List How to wire propane detector


Bruno,



My boat came with an installed propane sensor which did not work and a 
solenoid.  The circuit is fed from its’ own breaker.  I ended up replacing the 
sensor with a Fireboy Xintex.  See: 
http://www.fireboy-xintex.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/S-1A-Manual.pdf for 
wiring instructions.  The sensor is mounted under the stove.  I hope this helps.

S-1A Propane and CNG Fume Detector 
Manual<http://www.fireboy-xintex.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/S-1A-Manual.pdf>
www.fireboy-xintex.com
Created Date: 5/17/2006 10:13:03 AM





Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com<mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com>





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno 
Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2017 10:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruno Lachance
Subject: Stus-List How to wire propane detector





Hi,



I want to install a propane detector and i wanted to ask the list how to do it 
properly. Does it have to be wired to the battery like a bilge pump or i can 
wire it to the solenoid switch ?



Is there a safety code that appplies ?



i plan to install it as low as possible near the stove.



Thanks.



Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 C&C 33 mkII

New-Richmond, Qc.






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Re: Stus-List C&C 40 for sale

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

I saw a few C&Cs with draft réductions around here. Mars metal, who i 
understand produced the keels for most of our boats, have the templates, datas 
and know how to produce a bulb in two sections that you can bolt to the reduced 
keel and fair. A kind of DIY kit. You can cut the keel with a chainsawand they 
will calculate the weight of the bulb to compensate for the loss. they should 
also advise you if you are going too far, from what i heard they have a good 
knowledge of our boats.


https://marskeel.com/

[https://marskeel.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/custom-keel-systems.jpg]

MarsKeel |Production Lead Keels for the Sailboat Industry
marskeel.com
For 35 years Mars Keel Technology has united its passion for sailing & vast 
technical experience to supply quality keels to builders & sailors worldwide


The shipping will be expensive!


Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 33 mkII (will splash this thuesday!)
New-Richmond, Qc



De : CnC-List  de la part de Danny Haughey via 
CnC-List 
Envoyé : 30 mai 2017 16:11
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc : Danny Haughey
Objet : Re: Stus-List C&C 40 for sale


The yard I was at in westport did it on a C&C 41 I looked at

On 5/30/2017 4:10 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:
The guy with the 40 for sale in the Rio Dulce did it...with success he says.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 West Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840

+401 965 5260


On May 30, 2017, at 15:59, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Anyone know how hard it is to saw a foot or two off the keel?
6 feet is the absolute max for me.

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2017 11:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List C&C 40 for sale

Saw this listing:

https://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/6153505462.html

Don't know the boat.

--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List C&C 33-2 livability improvement - settee access

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Nice Dave,

On my 1987 33 mk II the water tank is port side under this sette and it is 
original, so the starboard side is storage and more accessible.  This must have 
an impact in weight distribution?

How many 33 mk II owners have their tank on the starboard side?

Bruno lachance
Bécassine, 1987 33mkii
New-Richmond, Qc.

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 4 juin 2017 à 10:06, Doug Welch via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Great idea. My boat has two pull out drawers underneath the settee that look 
like they might be original (teak that matches the rest of the boat) however, 
your solution makes much more sense. I'm adding this to my list :)

Doug Welch
Celtic Knot 33-2 c/b



On Saturday, June 3, 2017 7:14 PM, Dave S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Added some access hatches below deck - improved livability.  pics below

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2017/05/port-side-settee-stowage-access.html

Dave
1985 33-2 Windstar
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Re: Stus-List Flooded Batteries

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Peter,

Your problem is very likely a very small leak in your fuel system. Your starter 
turns until the system is primed and it will stay fine for few hours, but then 
air gets in again.

I experienced this problem before, my leak was at the secondary fuel filter. 
yanmar 2 GM20F

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine,1987  33-2
New Richmond, Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 22 sept. 2019 à 22:22, Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Nice, they do seem the cost effective way to go.

In your experience do weak batteries make diesels hard to start. Two weekends 
after sitting all week the starter turns but there is no ignition but there is 
smoke.  Finally on the 4th time it starts and has no issues the rest of the day 
and no smoke??

Sent from Yahoo Mail on 
Android

On Sun, Sep 22, 2019 at 10:18 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
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Stus-List Spinnaker pole end fittings

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi,

I don't post a lot but i've been following this list for over 10 years now.

I need your help today, especcially looking for experience bowman feedback and 
advice.

I'm in the market for a spinnaker pole for ou 33-2 and i have to choose between 
"standard" end fittings, like the UXP Forespar or Selden and the UTR from 
Forespar or what we could call a "trigger" fitting.

My experience is more with asymetrical kites so i dont really have an opinion 
on one versus the other. we usually sail short handed and club race with a 
small crew, the UTR fitting seems nice and modern but is there any downside ? 
like is there a risk i will need to fight with it if it doesn't want to trigger 
on the sheet\guy  in very light air when there is not a lot of tension on the 
ropes?

Are those trigger fittings really a plus or should i go classic?

My only spinnaker is a light-medium air A2. i have a ring car on the mast. My 
plan is to go with end for end gybing.

Thank you for your knowledge on that subject.



Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33-2 #166
New-Richmond, Qc



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Re: Stus-List Tacking Down an Asym on a 30 MK I

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi Randy,

Few years ago we added an A2 on a Facnor furler and and Selden sprit to our 
33-2. We do like it,  easy and safe to use single or shorthanded and my 
girlfriend feels confortable knowing i can manage everything safely by myself 
while she drives the boat.
But if i had to choose again i would go for a sock instead of a furler. That 
would be cheaper and faster in my opinion. It is pretty slow to furl a big asym 
on a rope, maybe the profurl with the plastic balls is faster with a larger 
diameter ? racing i need to plan ahead and start furling early.
Also to consider, on my setup, the tack (furler drum) is fixed on the sprit and 
anyways, the tack and head are on a fixed lenth of torque rope, the tuning is 
limited compared to a free flying sail with a regular adjustable tack line.

On windward/leeward courses, you can't really go straight downwind and usually 
need to jibe and sail longer course that sym spin boats, you can go wing on 
wing in some conditions but it is not ideal. Sometimes a similar boat with a 
big no1 genoa poled out with a whisker pole is almost as fast and correct with 
a better rating.

this year we got a new Symmetrical and i'm getting a carbon pole. it is a more 
complex setup short handed but way more efficient downwind on our displacement 
boat. Something new to learn on our boat!

Food for thought.

Best.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 1987 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc

De : CnC-List  de la part de Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List 
Envoyé : 15 mai 2020 12:28
À : 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc : Hoyt, Mike 
Objet : Re: Stus-List Tacking Down an Asym on a 30 MK I

Hi Randy

You may take a rating hit for having a sprit on the boat for this.  The 
measurement will be Total Sprit Length (TSL) and if that exceeds J there is 
usually an adjustment.

Have you considered a symmetrical spinnaker?  The 30 was designed for one and 
the downwind angles would clobber a Ranger 28 flying an asym tacked at bow.

Regards

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Randy Stafford via 
CnC-List
Sent: May 15, 2020 1:23 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Stus-List Tacking Down an Asym on a 30 MK I

Listers-

A guy in my yacht club has started an arms race by adding an asym with a 
top-down furler to his Ranger 28.  Wednesday night in light air I beat him to 
the windward mark by a minute or two, then he hoisted his asym and dropped me 
like a bad habit.  He beat me by five minutes corrected time in a one-hour race 
despite spotting me 12 sec/mile with his new adjusted rating (demonstrating yet 
again that ratings don’t necessarily account for performance differences).  It 
was an eye-opening demonstration.

So now I’m thinking I need an asym to compete.  I know a guy who flew one on a 
30 MK I.  He welded a bracket forward of the stem, to fasten a tack line block, 
and had a sock instead of a furler.  If I want to compete with this Ranger 28, 
I’ll have to add two furlers (one on the forestay and one for the asym) to be 
able to set sails as fast as him.  So I can’t just shackle an asym tack line 
block to the spare headsail shackle on the stem, and hoist/douse the asym using 
a sock.  I need a tack point forward of the stem to accommodate a furler.

Thus my question to you listers: any experience with adding a bowsprit or 
bracket etc. to your C&C for tacking down an asymmetrical spinnaker?  I did 
some reading last night on after-market bowsprits (e.g. Selden), but of course 
wanted to check with the collective wisdom on Stu’s list.  Any advice or 
recommendations?

Thanks,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO
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Stus-List Fwd: Window Installation - 1985 41

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

I' m pretty sure this is the discussion you are looking for on the VhB tape and 
Silicone method. See the Sailmagazine link below.

I saved many technical discussions in a folder over the years.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine
1987 33-2
New-Richmond,Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

Début du message transféré :

Expéditeur: "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 10 février 2015 à 14:22:40 UTC−5
Destinataire: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Objet: Rép :⁨ Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41⁩
Répondre à: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
mailto:drbod...@accesswave.ca>>, 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>


I've been following this topic any time I see it come up - I have windows in 
need of replacement.
I like the sailing anarchy suggestion - with coincides (fairly closely )with 
Don Casey's recommendation
http://www.sailmagazine.com/boatworks/replacing-fixed-portlights
He recommends double sided tape and Dow Corning 795 sealant.
The one difference he suggests using just the double sided tape initially  - 
then squeeze the sealant into the gap after the window is in place.
Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2015-02-07 8:50 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:
Do NOT use 5200.

Here is one way to do it: 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/portlight_replace/page01.htm

Here is another way to do it: 
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=133986&hl=

Here's another way:

Clean all traces of silicone from the window and frame. This will take roughly 
forever. I used a product I got from an auto parts store called "Acryl-Safe" 
which did a good job. You could also try any number of citrus-based silicone 
removers. Clean off all the remover residue with Interlux Special Thinner 216.
You could try rebedding without screws. I opted to use screws on 6" centers, 4" 
would have been better. Drill the holes slightly oversize and use a washer 
under the screw head.
The sealant is the next step. I used Life Seal (NOT Life Caulk!) because it has 
good adhesive qualities and does not interact with the acrylic/Lexan (whatever 
you have). If I was starting from scratch, I would use Sikaflex 295 UV with the 
special primer and skip the screws.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 7 February 2015 at 16:18, Rex & Jennifer Delay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
We have a relatively new to us 1985 41.  The windows and hatches had been 
replaced by the previous owner.  Hatches were done right, the side windows were 
bedded in silicone, not right.  I had to re-bed one of them already but did not 
get all traces of the silicone off so it did not take.  Need to do it again as 
soon as possible which will involve removing the window, scraping clean and 
then wiping the cabin side with acetone and re-bedding with 5200.  The question 
is – there are no mechanical fastenings?  Should I add screws every 4” or so or 
create some sort of method to press the windows in place while the 5200 sets?  
Anyone come up with the perfect jig to do this or is it better to add screws?  
Large custom bar clamps?

Rex & Jennifer Delay
www. Ghostlake.com
www.ghostlakesailing.com


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Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

I ordered a new forestay for my 33-2 this season at Klacko Spars in Oakville 
Ontario. The old one had a kink at the top, probably from a haylard wrap, not 
enough length to rehead so i decided to replace the whole thing.

The cost of the new forestay (# 8 rod) including the nose piece/fitting for the 
Harken furler is: 1 195 cnd$. + taxes and shipping

I think it is a pretty good price to replace the forestay. i will spend more 
time inspecting the rods but it seemed fine.

I am currently rebuildong the mast step so the timing was right for a rig refit 
while the mast is down. I am replacing many rig/deck hardware parts, have order 
new sheaves and pins from Zephyrwerks, hanving the spreader repainted, wires 
and VHF antenna replaced, some running rigging upgrades, etc... It adds up $$$

May is an expensive month every year, but especially this year.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc


De : CnC-List  de la part de Doug Mountjoy via 
CnC-List 
Envoyé : 20 mai 2020 12:07
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc : Doug Mountjoy 
Objet : Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection

Joe,
2 years ago I had my rod rigging replaced plus a bunch of other repairs done to 
my mast and boom. Total cost was $18k. Mast was pulled, inspected, rewired, new 
rods, new furler on for stay, new staysail stay, new goose neck. I added a 
second main halyard block. Back stay had insolators for SSB antenna, and mast 
and boom were repainted.
Port Townsend Rigging did most of the work, not the cheapest place around on 
Puget Sound.

On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 8:44 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

What would it cost to have a C&C with rod rigging inspected? Reheaded? Rod 
replaced?

It makes one think about buying a 70s-80s-90s era boat and having an immediate 
large expense.



Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com







From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Michael Brannon via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brannon mailto:ff1...@aol.com>>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection



James,   there is no reason why you cannot do your own.   Before going out and 
purchasing a dye penetrant kit I would polish the heads and the areas around 
them.   Once polished look for visible cracks. Often they show as a corrosion 
line or will snag your fingernail.  If you see one then you can do the dye 
penetrant test but at that point I’d consider replacing the rigging or 
re-heading the rod. You can also polish the area using very fine sandpaper 
(1500 grit) to see if the indication goes away.   Here is a link to some things 
I’ve seen doing rigging inspections on boats with rod:   
https://photos.app.goo.gl/d7ycMmiwJSTB8CcH7
 .



We don’t do that many inspections on rod rigging but the number of problems 
actually found is generally less than what is seen on boats with wire.  I am a 
professional rigger in the Norfolk VA area with Performance Rigging.



I hope that this helps.





Mike Brannon

Virginia Lee 93295

1978 C&C 36 CB

Virginia Beach, VA









On May 19, 2020, at 6:23 PM, James Bibb via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Chuck and I have been engaged in too many exclusive conversations regarding 
repairing deck core on our boats since we’re going through the exercise at the 
same time….realized some of this conversation should be shared with the broader 
C&C group as it always goes into good reading for the experience.

I’m taking down my mast…it’s has rod rigging and I’ve been meaning to have it 
inspected ever since I’ve purchased the boat.  Can this be done by a layperson 
with a dye test or something similar?  There’s no rigging company up here….I’d 
love to feel confident that there’s good life left with the existing.

James Bibb

34/36R 1991 Darwin’s Folly





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--
Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412
Port Orchard YC, WA
Rebecca Leah
C&C LandFall 39
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Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi,

I just remove a air heater that was nstalled by premious owner. It was T in the 
coolant hoses going to the water heater but never woeked well. I guess the 
hoses running in the bilges was too much of a heat loss.

So anyways, i'm going back to original and simplicity and i remember somebody 
here said he added valves to have the option to "bypass" the water heater in 
case of a leak. Since i already have the valves and my tank is original it 
seems to be a good idea. My question is: can i just install them in line on 
each hose or do i need to add a loop before the valves with T fittings , engine 
side of the valves, so i still have circulation. I think it does't matter and 
that the engine system does not depend on this but i want to be sure.

Thank you.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 1987 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi Mike,

Mine was in the V berth, too much of a run and produced almost no heat. Yours 
is way closer to the engine. I want to remove it because i found that when 
motoring, the engine heats the cabin to a "comfortable temperature". And it 
takes precious space.

I understand your setup, cleaner design and probably better performance with no 
Tees and shorter circuit. But you have a loop. I want to know if the hoses that 
go to the heater can be dead ends ?


Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 33-2

New-Richmond, Qc



De : Hoyt, Mike 
Envoyé : 8 juin 2020 09:46
À : 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc : Bruno Lachance 
Objet : RE: Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass


Hi Bruno



We installed a bus heater (what you described) on Persistence.  We already had 
a hot water heater so we simply had the hose that ran from the exchanger go to 
the bus heater and then from there to the hot water heater.  No Tees of any 
sort.  Did not affect the hot water heater adversely and works well for heating 
on cool fall days and for deliveries.  Only issue would be that increased hose 
runs and number of fittings increases chance of a coolant leak at some point



The bus heater on persistence is on the forward end of the quarter berth 
blowing toward nav station. Layout of Frers 33 is pretty much identical to your 
C&C 33-2.  This location also makes the bus heater close to engine and shortens 
the length of hos run as much as possible



Mike Hoyt

Persistence

1987 Frers 33

Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com





From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bruno Lachance via 
CnC-List
Sent: June 8, 2020 10:41 AM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Bruno Lachance 
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass





Hi,



I just remove a air heater that was nstalled by premious owner. It was T in the 
coolant hoses going to the water heater but never woeked well. I guess the 
hoses running in the bilges was too much of a heat loss.



So anyways, i'm going back to original and simplicity and i remember somebody 
here said he added valves to have the option to "bypass" the water heater in 
case of a leak. Since i already have the valves and my tank is original it 
seems to be a good idea. My question is: can i just install them in line on 
each hose or do i need to add a loop before the valves with T fittings , engine 
side of the valves, so i still have circulation. I think it does't matter and 
that the engine system does not depend on this but i want to be sure.



Thank you.



Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 33-2

New-Richmond, Qc


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Thank you Josh, so i do need to keep  a bypass loop... That makes sense, but 
then  it is more fittings and potential leaks. I was haapy to remove a bunch of 
fittings so i will need to think about it.

I do check my coolant level quite often so maybe i d'ont need this. Keep it 
simple!


Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 33-2

New-Richmond, Qc



De : CnC-List  de la part de Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Envoyé : 8 juin 2020 09:59
À : C&C List 
Cc : Josh Muckley 
Objet : Re: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

If you want a bypass for the water heater, I suggest you use 2 isolation valves 
on each leg and a bypass between the two legs.  A total of 3 identical ball 
valves would be my choice.  This could accomplished with two 3-way valves as 
well but 3-way valves can lead to confusion and usually cost more.  Without the 
isolation valves down stream of the bypass then a leak in the water heater 
would still be pressurized.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 09:41 Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi,

I just remove a air heater that was nstalled by premious owner. It was T in the 
coolant hoses going to the water heater but never woeked well. I guess the 
hoses running in the bilges was too much of a heat loss.

So anyways, i'm going back to original and simplicity and i remember somebody 
here said he added valves to have the option to "bypass" the water heater in 
case of a leak. Since i already have the valves and my tank is original it 
seems to be a good idea. My question is: can i just install them in line on 
each hose or do i need to add a loop before the valves with T fittings , engine 
side of the valves, so i still have circulation. I think it does't matter and 
that the engine system does not depend on this but i want to be sure.

Thank you.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 1987 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

ok, that is good confirmation!

So then i will install the two valves i have on each leg and will have the 
option to close the circuit to the water heater. The cooling system will see 
deads ends just like the plugs on the engine.

Thank you all. This list has done it again!


Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 33-2

New-Richmond, Qc



De : CnC-List  de la part de Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Envoyé : 8 juin 2020 10:32
À : C&C List 
Cc : Josh Muckley 
Objet : Re: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

Here you can see the plugs circled in red.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10ZcACLrWZObvSWoSzL2-Vnqud7zSk9Mv/view?usp=drivesdk

Josh

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 09:41 Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi,

I just remove a air heater that was nstalled by premious owner. It was T in the 
coolant hoses going to the water heater but never woeked well. I guess the 
hoses running in the bilges was too much of a heat loss.

So anyways, i'm going back to original and simplicity and i remember somebody 
here said he added valves to have the option to "bypass" the water heater in 
case of a leak. Since i already have the valves and my tank is original it 
seems to be a good idea. My question is: can i just install them in line on 
each hose or do i need to add a loop before the valves with T fittings , engine 
side of the valves, so i still have circulation. I think it does't matter and 
that the engine system does not depend on this but i want to be sure.

Thank you.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 1987 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc


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Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Josh, what about loosing the dampener instead? I know you have it, but With a 
good alignment you shouldn't need it. I think I would prefer to keep the shaft 
log intact, it also keeps / brings the seal a bit forward. I'm wondering if it 
adds some sort of support to the shaft. Few years ago when I replaced the 
shaft, coupler, cutlass bearing and the packing gland by a dripless seal I 
found the engine needed to be more precisely aligned.

Food for thoughts.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine,33-2
New-Richmond, Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 16 juin 2020 à 20:38, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Thanks Marek,

I agree with almost all of your assessment.

The shaft centering issue is not that it moves around or that I have intent to 
install it "off center" but rather that it could be exiting the log not 
perfectly on center.  Without some articulation of the seal it would require 
perfect alignment between the strut, the log, and the engine.

As for the log having room for 2 bands, I have at least 4 inches of engagement 
- probably room for 10 to 15 bands or more!  And that is what I am considering 
reducing.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 10:23 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Josh,

I am far from being an expert, but…

- I don’t think there is any issues with having very little of the shaft 
“free”. In my boat I have about 1/4” (free). The issue, in my mind, is not how 
much is left free after the assembly, but rather, how you can assemble all 
pieces together.

- the shaft log has to be long enough that you can safely put the seal on it 
and secure it with two clamps. You want that seal to be as secure as possible.

- there should not be any “flexing” (sideways) of the seal. The shaft should go 
through the middle of shaft log and should not be moving around.

I might be trivialising the problem, but..

Marek

1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: 16 June, 2020 09:01
To: C&C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting

I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please disregard.

I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+.  In 
the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and strut 
bearing.

The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid coupling. 
 I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to reuse.  The new 
seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's.  The new coupling is a split coupling 
from R&D Marine.  The new seal and coupling have added length which ultimately 
leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most.

So here comes the question.

First:  Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft?  I have 3.
- getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be 
separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the thickness 
of the coupling bolts.
- getting the split coupling on could be complicated
- with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation 
available in the seal tube.  The seal uses a delrin bearing to center itself on 
the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride harder on the 
shaft and can even overheat.

Second:
The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches.  If I cut the log 
shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit more free 
shaft and room for the seal to articulate.  Can any of you see any drawbacks or 
pitfalls to cutting the log short?


Thanks,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
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