Patrick, I have faced the same kind of problem on my boat. It is not exactly the same style of chainplate, but the 33 mkII does have the same aluminum backing block, and it was not moving. I initially tried the wedge, the hammer... With no success. There was some white powder visible, sign of aluminum corrosion. I finally had success with white vinegar, injected with a syringe where I can, from the top of the deck and from below, and a soaked rag taped around the block. I repeated this procedure twice and wait... The day after, I was able to separate everything with a small tap on the bolt, clean and reassemble with good quality butyl. I was happy to find that the core was not exposed around the chainplate.
Good luck. Bruno Lachance Becassine, 1987 33mkII New- Richmond, Qc. Envoyé de mon iPad Le 8 janv. 2017 à 11:45, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit : Anyone have experience pulling this style of chainplate? Photo uploaded here: https://svviolethour.com/chainplate/ Wally's site also has a good picture of one once it's open: http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/newrig/cplates/cplates.htm Wally says his were bedded in silicone, which probably made it really easy to pull, but mine don't appear to be silicone - some white sealant/adhesive which I'm afraid might be 4200 or in the worst case 5200. The backing block is adhered to the fiberglass deck undersurface, and to the bolts of the U-bolt. But mostly it's hard to pull because the block has nothing good to grip on, and it's in a tight location with bulkheads / cabinetry blocking access to two sides. Anyone have tips for how they did it? Did the backing block come off easily, or were there some tricks / gotchas? I've tried: vice grips, flathead screwdrivers used as wedges and hammered on the end, heat gun, pulling up on the U-bolt above deck, and trying to pull down the backing block using the threaded rod itself (over-tensioning it - I stopped this before it got too scary - don't want to break it). The next things I can try are: torch (stronger than a heat gun for melting glue, but I don't want to burn the fiberglass or set something on fire). More hammering on wedges. -Patrick 1984 C&C LF38 _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
