Stus-List Subject: Singing Rigging

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

Decades back, our Venture 22 had a centreboard cable that sounded like a
bowed cello.   3 different pitches dependent on speed. Like having
Yo-yo Ma along.


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Christian
Tirtirau via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 11:04
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Christian Tirtirau 
Subject: Stus-List Singing Rigging

Hello fellow seers,
I'm getting this humming in the mast as soon as I have a little breeze while
on the mooring ball and it's really annoying. At first I thought it was a
generator or an engine sound propagated by water but I realized it's the
strings of this big violin that are singing. Any idea how you get rid of
that without messing up the rig balance? Is it the baby stay? I have a lower
that is a little loose and when I tension it the sound pitch changes but
does not go away.
Cheers,
Christian Tirtirau
C&C 37 Northern Light
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Stus-List 33-2 Electrical upgrades,

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

Thanks but too late! - I ditched the switch entirely, replaced with a
Blueseas panel with flush breakers and more.

Dave



Message: 2
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2016 17:01:47 -0300
From: 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 Electrical upgrades,
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi Dave, you would be well advised to put some kind on guard over your main
breaker on your battery switch. Every C&C33 ii I have seen has a broken
lever on that breaker. Somebody is bound to step on it; happened to me
twice. I made a simple angle bracket out of lexan and that has served me
well
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Re: Stus-List AH 4000 users

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hi Joe, I still have one. I just moved it to make way for a new
chartplotter so it's mounted in the side of the cockpit next to the engine
controls on my 32.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I happen to know a Ph.D on the subject, so I ran it by him : 
Probably a little more info than anyone needed, but that is 
Just what we do on this list!

<< Bill:

The winglets and vortex shedding are unrelated.  They both involve
vortexes but they are different issues.

When you have flow separation around a bluff body (like a shroud or a
mast) you will get vortices shed in an alternating fashion from one side
and then the other.  This will cause a lateral sinusoidal force and if the
frequency of the shedding matches the natural frequency of the object it
will go into resonance which is what causes the noise.

An airplane wing also produces vorticity but unless it's stalled it's not
vortex shedding.  The wing vorticity causes a change in the direction of
the incoming flow which results in part of the lift vector pointing
backwards - which is in the direction of drag - and is thus called
lift-induced drag (or just induced drag).  Winglets bascailly fake out the
flow to make it think that the wing is longer than it is, and thus reduced
the induced drag.

If you google "vortex shedding" and "induced drag" I'm sure you will see
some pictures or drawings explaining this.

Cheers,

Bill L  >>



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don
Wagner via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 8:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Don Wagner; Christian Tirtirau
Subject: Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging

This is technically known as "vortex shedding". It's a natural phenomena
caused by the air flow around a round cylinder ( the rod or the wire) and
occurs at certain wind speeds. At normal speeds, normal flow occurs, and
there's no vibration. At certain higher speeds, vortexes develop, and
induce

vibrations in the rigging. Tightening or loosing the rigging will usually
reduce the effect. You can find a more complete description on the
internet.

Note: Commercial airliners have observed the problem at their wing tips,
and

many recently added small winglets at the ends of their wings.  I believe
this reduces energy loss, reduces the vibration, and improves their fuel
mileage.

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron
West River MD



-Original Message-
From: Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 11:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Christian Tirtirau
Subject: Stus-List Singing Rigging

Hello fellow seers,
I'm getting this humming in the mast as soon as I have a little breeze
while

on the mooring ball and it's really annoying. At first I thought it was a
generator or an engine sound propagated by water but I realized it's the
strings of this big violin that are singing. Any idea how you get rid of
that without messing up the rig balance? Is it the baby stay? I have a
lower

that is a little loose and when I tension it the sound pitch changes but
does not go away.
Cheers,
Christian Tirtirau
C&C 37 Northern Light

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like

what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated! 


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions
are greatly appreciated!


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Stus-List Pearson 30 available cheap

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

A friend is moving up to a trawler and needs his Pearson 30 gone ASAP to free 
up his slip. The boat is in decent shape with a hardly used roller furling 
genoa. The engine is still winterized from the fall.
If anyone needs a P-30 for a few thousand dollars let me know.


Joe Della Barba
DCSI
410-966-7255


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Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging

[David via CnC-List]

Ya gotta love it...

 "lateral sinusoidal force"
David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2016 10:26:34 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: colt...@verizon.net
> 
> I happen to know a Ph.D on the subject, so I ran it by him : 
> Probably a little more info than anyone needed, but that is 
> Just what we do on this list!
> 
> << Bill:
> 
> The winglets and vortex shedding are unrelated.  They both involve
> vortexes but they are different issues.
> 
> When you have flow separation around a bluff body (like a shroud or a
> mast) you will get vortices shed in an alternating fashion from one side
> and then the other.  This will cause a lateral sinusoidal force and if the
> frequency of the shedding matches the natural frequency of the object it
> will go into resonance which is what causes the noise.
> 
> An airplane wing also produces vorticity but unless it's stalled it's not
> vortex shedding.  The wing vorticity causes a change in the direction of
> the incoming flow which results in part of the lift vector pointing
> backwards - which is in the direction of drag - and is thus called
> lift-induced drag (or just induced drag).  Winglets bascailly fake out the
> flow to make it think that the wing is longer than it is, and thus reduced
> the induced drag.
> 
> If you google "vortex shedding" and "induced drag" I'm sure you will see
> some pictures or drawings explaining this.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Bill L  >>
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don
> Wagner via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 8:08 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Don Wagner; Christian Tirtirau
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging
> 
> This is technically known as "vortex shedding". It's a natural phenomena
> caused by the air flow around a round cylinder ( the rod or the wire) and
> occurs at certain wind speeds. At normal speeds, normal flow occurs, and
> there's no vibration. At certain higher speeds, vortexes develop, and
> induce
> 
> vibrations in the rigging. Tightening or loosing the rigging will usually
> reduce the effect. You can find a more complete description on the
> internet.
> 
> Note: Commercial airliners have observed the problem at their wing tips,
> and
> 
> many recently added small winglets at the ends of their wings.  I believe
> this reduces energy loss, reduces the vibration, and improves their fuel
> mileage.
> 
> Don Wagner
> C&C 41 CB
> Der Baron
> West River MD
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 11:04 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Christian Tirtirau
> Subject: Stus-List Singing Rigging
> 
> Hello fellow seers,
> I'm getting this humming in the mast as soon as I have a little breeze
> while
> 
> on the mooring ball and it's really annoying. At first I thought it was a
> generator or an engine sound propagated by water but I realized it's the
> strings of this big violin that are singing. Any idea how you get rid of
> that without messing up the rig balance? Is it the baby stay? I have a
> lower
> 
> that is a little loose and when I tension it the sound pitch changes but
> does not go away.
> Cheers,
> Christian Tirtirau
> C&C 37 Northern Light
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like
> 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated! 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!




Virus-free. www.avast.com


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Re: Stus-List Pearson 30 available cheap

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Oops – forgot – the boat is in Baltimore.
Here is a photo of her rafted up to me:
http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/coquinaanddreamon1.JPG

Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 10:27
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List Pearson 30 available cheap

A friend is moving up to a trawler and needs his Pearson 30 gone ASAP to free 
up his slip. The boat is in decent shape with a hardly used roller furling 
genoa. The engine is still winterized from the fall.
If anyone needs a P-30 for a few thousand dollars let me know.


Joe Della Barba
DCSI
410-966-7255


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Re: Stus-List C&C 34-1 Stanchion Bases

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

South shore yachts in Niagara on the Lake has them.

Get Outlook for iOS




On Mon, Jul 25, 2016 at 7:57 PM -0400, "Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

In my questions about re-bedding stanchions, Chris mentioned that I should 
check the bases for cracks.  Looks like a good number of them are cracked.  
Also, the pushpit bases are cracked.

Any recommendations from the list on where to source the replacements?

I'm thinking I should replace them all, even the ones that aren't noticeably 
broken.

Thanks,
  Jeremy
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Re: Stus-List Coquina Hull Color

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 Joe, nice photo...what is your hull color?  Thanks 

 


Richard
1985 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4


Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Sent: Tue, Jul 26, 2016 10:43 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pearson 30 available cheap



Oops – forgot – the boat is in Baltimore.
Here is a photo of her rafted up to me:
http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/coquinaanddreamon1.JPG
 
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 10:27
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List Pearson 30 available cheap

 

A friend is moving up to a trawler and needs his Pearson 30 gone ASAP to free 
up his slip. The boat is in decent shape with a hardly used roller furling 
genoa. The engine is still winterized from the fall. 
If anyone needs a P-30 for a few thousand dollars let me know.
 
 
Joe Della Barba
DCSI
410-966-7255

 
 


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List Spare Morris cables for Landfall 38

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I am making last minute preparations to leave cruising this fall.  I want to 
carry spare Morris cables for both the gear shift and the throttle since I have 
had these fail many years ago.  Since I don't want to remove them just to make 
measurements, does anyone have the specs on these cables for ordering?

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jul 26, 2016, at 10:39 AM, David via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Ya gotta love it...
> 
>  "lateral sinusoidal force"
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2016 10:26:34 -0400
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging
> > From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > CC: colt...@verizon.net
> > 
> > I happen to know a Ph.D on the subject, so I ran it by him : 
> > Probably a little more info than anyone needed, but that is 
> > Just what we do on this list!
> > 
> > << Bill:
> > 
> > The winglets and vortex shedding are unrelated. They both involve
> > vortexes but they are different issues.
> > 
> > When you have flow separation around a bluff body (like a shroud or a
> > mast) you will get vortices shed in an alternating fashion from one side
> > and then the other. This will cause a lateral sinusoidal force and if the
> > frequency of the shedding matches the natural frequency of the object it
> > will go into resonance which is what causes the noise.
> > 
> > An airplane wing also produces vorticity but unless it's stalled it's not
> > vortex shedding. The wing vorticity causes a change in the direction of
> > the incoming flow which results in part of the lift vector pointing
> > backwards - which is in the direction of drag - and is thus called
> > lift-induced drag (or just induced drag). Winglets bascailly fake out the
> > flow to make it think that the wing is longer than it is, and thus reduced
> > the induced drag.
> > 
> > If you google "vortex shedding" and "induced drag" I'm sure you will see
> > some pictures or drawings explaining this.
> > 
> > Cheers,
> > 
> > Bill L >>
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don
> > Wagner via CnC-List
> > Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 8:08 PM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: Don Wagner; Christian Tirtirau
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging
> > 
> > This is technically known as "vortex shedding". It's a natural phenomena
> > caused by the air flow around a round cylinder ( the rod or the wire) and
> > occurs at certain wind speeds. At normal speeds, normal flow occurs, and
> > there's no vibration. At certain higher speeds, vortexes develop, and
> > induce
> > 
> > vibrations in the rigging. Tightening or loosing the rigging will usually
> > reduce the effect. You can find a more complete description on the
> > internet.
> > 
> > Note: Commercial airliners have observed the problem at their wing tips,
> > and
> > 
> > many recently added small winglets at the ends of their wings. I believe
> > this reduces energy loss, reduces the vibration, and improves their fuel
> > mileage.
> > 
> > Don Wagner
> > C&C 41 CB
> > Der Baron
> > West River MD
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List
> > Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 11:04 AM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: Christian Tirtirau
> > Subject: Stus-List Singing Rigging
> > 
> > Hello fellow seers,
> > I'm getting this humming in the mast as soon as I have a little breeze
> > while
> > 
> > on the mooring ball and it's really annoying. At first I thought it was a
> > generator or an engine sound propagated by water but I realized it's the
> > strings of this big violin that are singing. Any idea how you get rid of
> > that without messing up the rig balance? Is it the baby stay? I have a
> > lower
> > 
> > that is a little loose and when I tension it the sound pitch changes but
> > does not go away.
> > Cheers,
> > Christian Tirtirau
> > C&C 37 Northern Light
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> > like
> > 
> > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> > Contributions are greatly appreciated! 
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> > like
> > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> > Contributions
> > are greatly appreciated!
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
> > Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
>   Virus-free. www.avast.com
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donati

Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging

[Don Harben via CnC-List]

Thank you! This gets lots of tangential rig visuals of wind flow!

Don

Don Harben
Viking 34
Life
www.ncyc.ca


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Spare Morris cables for Landfall 38

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

These are things that don't fail very often, so if you're concerned, I
would suggest replacing them just in case. Extra room for spares is going
to be at a premium so anything you can do to free up space is a good idea.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine



On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 11:03 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am making last minute preparations to leave cruising this fall.  I want
> to carry spare Morris cables for both the gear shift and the throttle since
> I have had these fail many years ago.  Since I don't want to remove them
> just to make measurements, does anyone have the specs on these cables for
> ordering?
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>
> On Jul 26, 2016, at 10:39 AM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Ya gotta love it...
>
>  "lateral sinusoidal force"
>
>
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2016 10:26:34 -0400
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging
> > From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > CC: colt...@verizon.net
> >
> > I happen to know a Ph.D on the subject, so I ran it by him :
> > Probably a little more info than anyone needed, but that is
> > Just what we do on this list!
> >
> > << Bill:
> >
> > The winglets and vortex shedding are unrelated. They both involve
> > vortexes but they are different issues.
> >
> > When you have flow separation around a bluff body (like a shroud or a
> > mast) you will get vortices shed in an alternating fashion from one side
> > and then the other. This will cause a lateral sinusoidal force and if the
> > frequency of the shedding matches the natural frequency of the object it
> > will go into resonance which is what causes the noise.
> >
> > An airplane wing also produces vorticity but unless it's stalled it's not
> > vortex shedding. The wing vorticity causes a change in the direction of
> > the incoming flow which results in part of the lift vector pointing
> > backwards - which is in the direction of drag - and is thus called
> > lift-induced drag (or just induced drag). Winglets bascailly fake out the
> > flow to make it think that the wing is longer than it is, and thus
> reduced
> > the induced drag.
> >
> > If you google "vortex shedding" and "induced drag" I'm sure you will see
> > some pictures or drawings explaining this.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Bill L >>
> >
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] On Behalf Of Don
> > Wagner via CnC-List
> > Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 8:08 PM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: Don Wagner; Christian Tirtirau
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging
> >
> > This is technically known as "vortex shedding". It's a natural phenomena
> > caused by the air flow around a round cylinder ( the rod or the wire) and
> > occurs at certain wind speeds. At normal speeds, normal flow occurs, and
> > there's no vibration. At certain higher speeds, vortexes develop, and
> > induce
> >
> > vibrations in the rigging. Tightening or loosing the rigging will usually
> > reduce the effect. You can find a more complete description on the
> > internet.
> >
> > Note: Commercial airliners have observed the problem at their wing tips,
> > and
> >
> > many recently added small winglets at the ends of their wings. I believe
> > this reduces energy loss, reduces the vibration, and improves their fuel
> > mileage.
> >
> > Don Wagner
> > C&C 41 CB
> > Der Baron
> > West River MD
> >
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List
> > Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 11:04 AM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: Christian Tirtirau
> > Subject: Stus-List Singing Rigging
> >
> > Hello fellow seers,
> > I'm getting this humming in the mast as soon as I have a little breeze
> > while
> >
> > on the mooring ball and it's really annoying. At first I thought it was a
> > generator or an engine sound propagated by water but I realized it's the
> > strings of this big violin that are singing. Any idea how you get rid of
> > that without messing up the rig balance? Is it the baby stay? I have a
> > lower
> >
> > that is a little loose and when I tension it the sound pitch changes but
> > does not go away.
> > Cheers,
> > Christian Tirtirau
> > C&C 37 Northern Light
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> > like
> >
> > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> > Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> > like
> > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> > Contributions
> > are greatly appreciated!
> >
> >
> > ___
> >

Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I have been trying to silence our shrouds for years. Loosen, tighten, bind
them together, hold them apart...nothing works. I suspect I'm going to have
to pull the rig and start over to fix this, just like in our 29-2.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 26 July 2016 at 08:06, Don Harben via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Thank you! This gets lots of tangential rig visuals of wind flow!
>
> Don
>
> Don Harben
> Viking 34
> Life
> www.ncyc.ca
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Spare Morris cables for Landfall 38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Bob — when I replace my pedestal a couple of years ago, I replaced the engine 
cables as well.  Here are the part numbers I used:

Teleflex CCX63306 throttle  (10-32 stud x 6' long)
Teleflex CCX64307 trans (5/16-24 stud x 7' long)

I have a Yanmar 3QM; so if your engine is different, the cable lengths may be 
as well.  And these are on an Edson 336-5-211T pedestal, with the two-lever 
controls where the transmission is on the aft side of the housing and the 
throttle is on the starboard side.

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 26, 2016, at 10:03 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am making last minute preparations to leave cruising this fall.  I want to 
> carry spare Morris cables for both the gear shift and the throttle since I 
> have had these fail many years ago.  Since I don't want to remove them just 
> to make measurements, does anyone have the specs on these cables for ordering?
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
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Re: Stus-List Spare Morris cables for Landfall 38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

And they’re “Morse” cables — it used to be Morse/Teleflex, but now is just 
Teleflex.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 26, 2016, at 10:16 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bob — when I replace my pedestal a couple of years ago, I replaced the engine 
> cables as well.  Here are the part numbers I used:
> 
> Teleflex CCX63306 throttle(10-32 stud x 6' long)
> Teleflex CCX64307 trans   (5/16-24 stud x 7' long)
> 
> I have a Yanmar 3QM; so if your engine is different, the cable lengths may be 
> as well.  And these are on an Edson 336-5-211T pedestal, with the two-lever 
> controls where the transmission is on the aft side of the housing and the 
> throttle is on the starboard side.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Jul 26, 2016, at 10:03 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> I am making last minute preparations to leave cruising this fall.  I want to 
>> carry spare Morris cables for both the gear shift and the throttle since I 
>> have had these fail many years ago.  Since I don't want to remove them just 
>> to make measurements, does anyone have the specs on these cables for 
>> ordering?
>> 
>> Bob
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Re: Stus-List Coquina Hull Color

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Looks like Awl Grip Flag Blue.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 11:33 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I forget the actual paint code. A dark/navy blue Awlgrip of some kind. The
> original paint job was done in 1979 and again around 1986 when the yard
> damaged the boat.
>
> It really needs doing again too. My wife wants the original color back. I
> will say one thing, painting a boat with no balsa core a dark color makes
> for solar heating whether you need it or not!
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> Original gelcoat from 1977 or maybe 78:
> http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/earlycoquina1.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Richard
> N. Bush via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 26, 2016 10:51
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Richard N. Bush
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Coquina Hull Color
>
>
>
> Joe, nice photo...what is your hull color?  Thanks
>
>
>
> Richard
>
> 1985 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
> Sent: Tue, Jul 26, 2016 10:43 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pearson 30 available cheap
>
> Oops – forgot – the boat is in Baltimore.
>
> Here is a photo of her rafted up to me:
>
> *http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/coquinaanddreamon1.JPG*
> 
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [*mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com*
> ] *On Behalf Of *Della Barba, Joe via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 26, 2016 10:27
> *To:* 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe
> *Subject:* Stus-List Pearson 30 available cheap
>
>
>
> A friend is moving up to a trawler and needs his Pearson 30 gone ASAP to
> free up his slip. The boat is in decent shape with a hardly used roller
> furling genoa. The engine is still winterized from the fall.
>
> If anyone needs a P-30 for a few thousand dollars let me know.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> DCSI
>
> 410-966-7255
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List Coquina Hull Color

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I forget the actual paint code. A dark/navy blue Awlgrip of some kind. The 
original paint job was done in 1979 and again around 1986 when the yard damaged 
the boat.
It really needs doing again too. My wife wants the original color back. I will 
say one thing, painting a boat with no balsa core a dark color makes for solar 
heating whether you need it or not!
Joe
Coquina
Original gelcoat from 1977 or maybe 78: 
http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/earlycoquina1.jpg


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 10:51
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Coquina Hull Color

Joe, nice photo...what is your hull color?  Thanks

Richard
1985 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>>
Sent: Tue, Jul 26, 2016 10:43 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pearson 30 available cheap
Oops – forgot – the boat is in Baltimore.
Here is a photo of her rafted up to me:
http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/coquinaanddreamon1.JPG

Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 10:27
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List Pearson 30 available cheap

A friend is moving up to a trawler and needs his Pearson 30 gone ASAP to free 
up his slip. The boat is in decent shape with a hardly used roller furling 
genoa. The engine is still winterized from the fall.
If anyone needs a P-30 for a few thousand dollars let me know.


Joe Della Barba
DCSI
410-966-7255


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Re: Stus-List Pearson 30 available cheap

[RANDY via CnC-List]

I've gotta say, I like the look of the C&C better than the look of the Pearson 
:) 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Joe via CnC-List Della Barba"  
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: "Joe Della Barba"  
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 8:42:24 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pearson 30 available cheap 



Oops – forgot – the boat is in Baltimore. 

Here is a photo of her rafted up to me: 

http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/coquinaanddreamon1.JPG 



Joe 

Coquina 

C&C 35 MK I 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 10:27 
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Pearson 30 available cheap 





A friend is moving up to a trawler and needs his Pearson 30 gone ASAP to free 
up his slip. The boat is in decent shape with a hardly used roller furling 
genoa. The engine is still winterized from the fall. 

If anyone needs a P-30 for a few thousand dollars let me know. 





Joe Della Barba 

DCSI 

410-966-7255 






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Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks to Joe and everyone else who replied.  After reading a few articles
like this one - http://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/-11222-1.html, it
sounds like there is little consensus on lightning protection for
sailboats.  I'd be curious to know what sort of lightning protection, if
any, comes standard on new boats from the well-regarded manufacturers of
heavy displacement cruisers like Hallberg Rassy etc.  I just searched the
manual for a new HR boat and there's no mention of lightning or lightning
protection at all.

Someone raised the point on one forum that inviting this massive amount of
energy into your boat is a bad idea (IE a cable going from the mast to a
keel bolt).  Not sure whether this is a well-founded concern or not, but
I'm leaning towards Joe's idea of clipping some jumpstart cables to the
shrouds and hanging them overboard next time I'm caught out in a storm.
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Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Correct me if wrong, but I was under the impression that no wire size could 
carry the load of a lightning strike.The grounding is to bleed off the induced 
charge at the top of the mast due to the field, which in turn reduces the 
lightning attraction to the mast.RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL


  From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Robert Boyer 
 Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 10:39 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki
   
Lightning is actually attracted to a grounded object.  My boat has been hit by 
lightning twice--mast was grounded to keel bolt.  Most of my electronics were 
fried each time.  So, if anyone claims that grounding works, I think they have 
been more lucky than wise.
Bob

   #yiv4626794442 #yiv4626794442 -- _filtered #yiv4626794442 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 
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Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Following up on this, five months later. 

On the recommendations from Rick and Gary, I bought and installed a Garhauer 
rigid vang (model RV20-1SL - 
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=40 ) on my 30-1. It's been on 
the boat for about a month now. 

I've been pleased with both the product and the service I got from Garhauer 
Marine, so wanted to give a positive review. And thanks for the 
recommendations. 

The guy I worked with at Garhauer who is in charge of boom vangs is named Mark. 
He was very patient and professional - took a couple of calls from me 
beforehand so I could make sure I ordered the right product and got accurate 
measurements etc. Then afterward he sent me a corrected boom bracket for free, 
because I'd botched the boom trace the first time around. And it took a couple 
reminders but he did finally send me the cam cleat block specified in my 
original order, after my vang arrived without it (no extra charge for the cam 
cleat block, BTW). 

I've been pleased with the vang. The product is solid. The installation was 
straightforward, with good instructions. It does a great job of keeping the 
boom down. I wish I'd had it during that rescue last month - with my main 
flogging during all the action, I got into an attitude where the boom was 
raised up and trapped against the backstay, which shredded some lights I had 
running up the backstay, and I'm sure put an unexpected lateral load on the 
backstay. 

Before I had the vang installed, the owner of the local ASA school, Captain 
James Cook ( https://www.victoriasailingschool.com/index.php/home/ownership ) 
cruised past me on his J/30, with both of us on beam reach, and told me I was 
losing a third of my mainsail power off the wind without the vang. Now I've got 
all that power back, presumably, but I'm still not as fast as his J/30 :). It's 
not close-up, but you can see the vang in the last picture of 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTY0VBM2hlT0hveDQ . And now I can 
get rid of the #@*&^%$ topping lift next time I go up the mast. 

So this one has a good ending. Garhauer did right by me, and thanks for the 
recommendation. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Gary Nylander via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Gary Nylander"  
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 12:08:28 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit? 



As I said earlier, my boat is late, so the boom is a foot higher than yours, 
unless yours has been refitted. 



That said, the Garhauer spring loaded tube attaches at the base of the mast, 
just above the partners, there’s a fitted plate – and the same is true on the 
boom, it’s about 3 -4 feet aft of the mast. Garhauer will match the plate to 
the shape of your mast and boom, just send them a template, no charge. I 
attached the block for the adjuster (which is really a 6-1 vang) to the cabin 
top just behind the mast, then ran the line through a fairlead on the 
companionway hood to a line lock on the port side of the cabin top – I have 
moved a bunch of lines through organizers back to winches on both sides of the 
cabin top. There are four locks on the port side and three on the starboard. 



Guido at Garhauer can advise you on whether the angles are OK, just send him 
the measurements. 



Good luck, 

Gary 

#593 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 1:50 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit? 





Thank you Rick, Michael, Francois, and all - your advice is valuable. 





I appreciate the benefits of vangs from a few years of racing Capri 22s, J/22s, 
and Merit 25s. In addition to the adjustable backstays on those fractional 
rigs, we'd use the vang upwind in heavy air to help depower, and to play the 
traveler in puffs without sacrificing leech tension. And of course we'd use the 
vang off the wind to prevent boom rise. That is why I was alarmed when I first 
saw Kona (now Grenadine) without a vang, and I'm really grateful to be able to 
reach out to this mail list with the question. 





Those were all soft vangs - block and line arrangements. I like the idea of a 
rigid vang to replace the topping lift - it is a hassle. I'd always disconnect 
it underway so it wouldn't interfere with leech tension, and I did drop the 
boom on my daughter's head once when dousing the main :( And tensioning systems 
are a pain - you have to reach too high to raise the boom, in order to have 
enough range when slack to avoid interfering with leech tension. 





So, for those who have installed a Garhauer or Easy Kick 2, how and where do 
those systems fasten to the mast and boom? I'll measure the distance from 
gooseneck to mast collar to see what the angle would be and compare to the 
minimum for each rigid vang option - thanks for that tip Michael. Has anyone 
refitted

Re: Stus-List Spare Morris cables for Landfall 38

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

If your cables are the same diameter, they are both series 33 cables.  If the 
gearshift cable is roughly twice the size of the throttle cable, the shift is a 
series 64 cable and the throttle is a series 33.  As Andrew mentioned, you are 
more likely to break the cable connectors (clevis) or the cable clamps that 
secure the cable to the controls than you are to breaking the solid steel rod 
inside the cable itself.  Still a good idea to replace 25 year old cables 
before going cruising, but the lengths and series cables will depend on engine 
and gearbox type and are rarely standardized.
My LF 35 has 2 series 33 cables, with a Yanmar 3HM and a Hurth V drive gear 
box. Both cables exit the pedestal on starboard side of the motor and loop 
around behind the engine connecting on the port side to gear box and throttle. 
As such the cables are 12' and 14' long.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram MA
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 26, 2016, at 11:24 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> And they’re “Morse” cables — it used to be Morse/Teleflex, but now is just 
> Teleflex.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Jul 26, 2016, at 10:16 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Bob — when I replace my pedestal a couple of years ago, I replaced the 
>> engine cables as well.  Here are the part numbers I used:
>> 
>> Teleflex CCX63306 throttle   (10-32 stud x 6' long)
>> Teleflex CCX64307 trans  (5/16-24 stud x 7' long)
>> 
>> I have a Yanmar 3QM; so if your engine is different, the cable lengths may 
>> be as well.  And these are on an Edson 336-5-211T pedestal, with the 
>> two-lever controls where the transmission is on the aft side of the housing 
>> and the throttle is on the starboard side.
>> 
>> — Fred
>> 
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>> 
>>> On Jul 26, 2016, at 10:03 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I am making last minute preparations to leave cruising this fall.  I want 
>>> to carry spare Morris cables for both the gear shift and the throttle since 
>>> I have had these fail many years ago.  Since I don't want to remove them 
>>> just to make measurements, does anyone have the specs on these cables for 
>>> ordering?
>>> 
>>> Bob
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 11:39 AM, RANDY via CnC-List 
wrote:

>  Then afterward he sent me a corrected boom bracket for free, because I'd
> botched the boom trace the first time around.



For the future and for any others considering this, an easy way to trace
profiles of the mast and boom is to get a piece of solder and shape it to
the profile.  Transfer the shape to paper.  Repeat to check it.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Spare Morris cables for Landfall 38

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

On my first trip south, the cable for my gear shift failed in Titusville, FL--I 
was able to find a replacement cable in Titusville but it cost me 2 days in a 
marina and lost time--that was 20 years ago.  So, I think I'm due for a 
replacement.  Making a preventative replacement before I leave is a good idea.

I have the 3HM (F) engine and I know my cables are about 10 feet long from my 
memory.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jul 26, 2016, at 11:11 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> These are things that don't fail very often, so if you're concerned, I would 
> suggest replacing them just in case. Extra room for spares is going to be at 
> a premium so anything you can do to free up space is a good idea.
> 
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 11:03 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I am making last minute preparations to leave cruising this fall.  I want to 
>> carry spare Morris cables for both the gear shift and the throttle since I 
>> have had these fail many years ago.  Since I don't want to remove them just 
>> to make measurements, does anyone have the specs on these cables for 
>> ordering?
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> s/v Rainy Days
>> C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
>> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>> 
>>> On Jul 26, 2016, at 10:39 AM, David via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Ya gotta love it...
>>> 
>>>  "lateral sinusoidal force"
>>> 
>>> David F. Risch
>>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>>> 
>>> 
>>> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> > Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2016 10:26:34 -0400
>>> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging
>>> > From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> > CC: colt...@verizon.net
>>> > 
>>> > I happen to know a Ph.D on the subject, so I ran it by him : 
>>> > Probably a little more info than anyone needed, but that is 
>>> > Just what we do on this list!
>>> > 
>>> > << Bill:
>>> > 
>>> > The winglets and vortex shedding are unrelated. They both involve
>>> > vortexes but they are different issues.
>>> > 
>>> > When you have flow separation around a bluff body (like a shroud or a
>>> > mast) you will get vortices shed in an alternating fashion from one side
>>> > and then the other. This will cause a lateral sinusoidal force and if the
>>> > frequency of the shedding matches the natural frequency of the object it
>>> > will go into resonance which is what causes the noise.
>>> > 
>>> > An airplane wing also produces vorticity but unless it's stalled it's not
>>> > vortex shedding. The wing vorticity causes a change in the direction of
>>> > the incoming flow which results in part of the lift vector pointing
>>> > backwards - which is in the direction of drag - and is thus called
>>> > lift-induced drag (or just induced drag). Winglets bascailly fake out the
>>> > flow to make it think that the wing is longer than it is, and thus reduced
>>> > the induced drag.
>>> > 
>>> > If you google "vortex shedding" and "induced drag" I'm sure you will see
>>> > some pictures or drawings explaining this.
>>> > 
>>> > Cheers,
>>> > 
>>> > Bill L >>
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > -Original Message-
>>> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don
>>> > Wagner via CnC-List
>>> > Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 8:08 PM
>>> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> > Cc: Don Wagner; Christian Tirtirau
>>> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging
>>> > 
>>> > This is technically known as "vortex shedding". It's a natural phenomena
>>> > caused by the air flow around a round cylinder ( the rod or the wire) and
>>> > occurs at certain wind speeds. At normal speeds, normal flow occurs, and
>>> > there's no vibration. At certain higher speeds, vortexes develop, and
>>> > induce
>>> > 
>>> > vibrations in the rigging. Tightening or loosing the rigging will usually
>>> > reduce the effect. You can find a more complete description on the
>>> > internet.
>>> > 
>>> > Note: Commercial airliners have observed the problem at their wing tips,
>>> > and
>>> > 
>>> > many recently added small winglets at the ends of their wings. I believe
>>> > this reduces energy loss, reduces the vibration, and improves their fuel
>>> > mileage.
>>> > 
>>> > Don Wagner
>>> > C&C 41 CB
>>> > Der Baron
>>> > West River MD
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > -Original Message-
>>> > From: Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List
>>> > Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 11:04 AM
>>> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> > Cc: Christian Tirtirau
>>> > Subject: Stus-List Singing Rigging
>>> > 
>>> > Hello fellow seers,
>>> > I'm getting this humming in the mast as soon as I have a little breeze
>>> > while
>>> > 
>>> > on the mooring ball and it's really annoying. At first I thought it was a
>>> > generator or an engine sound propagated by water but I realized it's the
>>> > strings of this big violin that are s

Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Yeah I failed to use solder the first time around. 

Also, upon installing the corrected boom bracket, I had to break out the old 
roller-reefing crank handle and make sure the boom was rotated exactly right - 
I didn't pay close enough attention to that the first time. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
To: "CnClist"  
Cc: "Dennis"  
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 10:55:22 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit? 


On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 11:39 AM, RANDY via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 


Then afterward he sent me a corrected boom bracket for free, because I'd 
botched the boom trace the first time around. 




For the future and for any others considering this, an easy way to trace 
profiles of the mast and boom is to get a piece of solder and shape it to the 
profile. Transfer the shape to paper. Repeat to check it. 

Dennis C. 
Touche' 35-1 #83 
Mandeville, LA 

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Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I know a guy who has a length of stainless steel chain stored on deck and 
connected to the shrouds on each side of the boat. He dumps the chain in the 
water when he thinks it appropriate. His boat was hit by lightning in the past, 
but not since he got the chains, so he does not really know how good it works. 

My big fear would be having the lightning blow out through the transducers and 
or thru hulls, which has been know to happen. Probably nothing will save the 
electronics, except maybe a portable radio stored in the oven, but the extra 
conductors might carry away enough energy to prevent a boat-sinking hole in the 
hull. At least that is the theory. There are a lot of sailboats that have been 
hit by lightning which failed to sink. That nothing reliable in terms of 
protection knowledge has come out of all of these close calls only goes to show 
how much luck is involved.  

Last week a soft ball player in Nova Scotia was hit and survived. As she 
reached out to open the door on a storage shed, the shed was struck by 
lightning. The current went up her arm and out her foot, with only minor burns 
to the surface of her skin, but her clothing was "blown to bits". After a 
night's observation in hospital, she reported still feeling weak from having 
all her muscles contracted, but otherwise ok.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Ryan Doyle 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 12:16
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki


  Thanks to Joe and everyone else who replied.  After reading a few articles 
like this one - http://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/-11222-1.html, it sounds 
like there is little consensus on lightning protection for sailboats.  I'd be 
curious to know what sort of lightning protection, if any, comes standard on 
new boats from the well-regarded manufacturers of heavy displacement cruisers 
like Hallberg Rassy etc.  I just searched the manual for a new HR boat and 
there's no mention of lightning or lightning protection at all.


  Someone raised the point on one forum that inviting this massive amount of 
energy into your boat is a bad idea (IE a cable going from the mast to a keel 
bolt).  Not sure whether this is a well-founded concern or not, but I'm leaning 
towards Joe's idea of clipping some jumpstart cables to the shrouds and hanging 
them overboard next time I'm caught out in a storm.  
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Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki

[David via CnC-List]

FWIW...

I was listening to a a presentation at a Safety at Sea seminar (I forgot who 
the presenter was) an he said he examined 350 (or so) lightning strikes that 
was on the books (I think they were insurance claims).

Not one boat, he said, was hit while moving.   

May or may not help but I thought it was a fascinating fact...

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2016 13:10:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: sthom...@bellnet.ca








I know a guy who has a length of stainless 
steel chain stored on deck and connected to the shrouds on each side of the 
boat. He dumps the chain in the water when he thinks it appropriate. His boat 
was hit by lightning in the past, but not since he got the chains, so he does 
not really know how good it works. 
 
My big fear would be having the lightning blow out 
through the transducers and or thru hulls, which has been know to happen. 
Probably nothing will save the electronics, except maybe a portable radio 
stored 
in the oven, but the extra conductors might carry away enough energy to prevent 
a boat-sinking hole in the hull. At least that is the theory. There are a 
lot of sailboats that have been hit by lightning which failed to sink. 
That nothing reliable in terms of protection knowledge has come out of 
all of these close calls only goes to show how much luck is involved. 
 
 
Last week a soft ball player in Nova Scotia was hit 
and survived. As she reached out to open the door on a storage shed, the 
shed was struck by lightning. The current went up her 
arm and out her foot, with only minor burns to the surface of her skin, but 
her clothing was "blown to bits". After a night's observation in hospital, she 
reported still feeling weak from having all her muscles contracted, but 
otherwise ok.
 
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Ryan Doyle 
  via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Ryan Doyle 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 12:16
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 
  30mki
  

  Thanks to Joe and everyone else who replied.  After reading 
  a few articles like this one - 
http://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/-11222-1.html, 
  it sounds like there is little consensus on lightning protection for 
  sailboats.  I'd be curious to know what sort of lightning protection, if 
  any, comes standard on new boats from the well-regarded manufacturers of 
heavy 
  displacement cruisers like Hallberg Rassy etc.  I just searched the 
  manual for a new HR boat and there's no mention of lightning or lightning 
  protection at all.
  

  Someone raised the point on one forum that inviting this massive amount 
  of energy into your boat is a bad idea (IE a cable going from the mast to a 
  keel bolt).  Not sure whether this is a well-founded concern or not, but 
  I'm leaning towards Joe's idea of clipping some jumpstart cables to the 
  shrouds and hanging them overboard next time I'm caught out in a storm. 
   
  


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Virus-free. www.avast.com


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Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

We already invite the energy into the boat unless you have a deck stepped mast. 
Giving it heavy wire to follow to the keel beats having the lightning find a 
random way out.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 12:16
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki

Thanks to Joe and everyone else who replied.  After reading a few articles like 
this one - http://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/-11222-1.html, it sounds like 
there is little consensus on lightning protection for sailboats.  I'd be 
curious to know what sort of lightning protection, if any, comes standard on 
new boats from the well-regarded manufacturers of heavy displacement cruisers 
like Hallberg Rassy etc.  I just searched the manual for a new HR boat and 
there's no mention of lightning or lightning protection at all.

Someone raised the point on one forum that inviting this massive amount of 
energy into your boat is a bad idea (IE a cable going from the mast to a keel 
bolt).  Not sure whether this is a well-founded concern or not, but I'm leaning 
towards Joe's idea of clipping some jumpstart cables to the shrouds and hanging 
them overboard next time I'm caught out in a storm.
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Stus-List Singing Rigging

[robert via CnC-List]

Christian:

The 'humming' is probably coming from your shrouds.  Since my boat is 
currently about 300 yards away from your boat, we experience the same 
weather (wind) conditions.


I tried loosening/tightening my shrouds a little but that didn't seem to 
work.  My final solution was to wrap each shroud with plain 'electrical 
tape'..about eye level, approx. 6 to 8 complete wraps with the tape 
on each shroud.since doing that, I have not had my rig 'sing' to me.


Rob Abbott

AZURA

C&C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S>




On 2016-07-25 12:04 PM, Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List wrote:

Hello fellow seers,
I'm getting this humming in the mast as soon as I have a little breeze while on 
the mooring ball and it's really annoying. At first I thought it was a 
generator or an engine sound propagated by water but I realized it's the 
strings of this big violin that are singing. Any idea how you get rid of that 
without messing up the rig balance? Is it the baby stay? I have a lower that is 
a little loose and when I tension it the sound pitch changes but does not go 
away.
Cheers,
Christian Tirtirau
C&C 37 Northern Light

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Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

You are wrong or lightning rods would not work. Of course nothing is 100%, but 
buildings have been protected by thick wire running from lightning rods to 
ground since the 1770s. While we were headed out to our mooring in Annapolis 
over the 4th of July weekend a wicked thunderstorm was providing quite the 
lightning show. My dogs were both trying to get under my legs and once and the 
Statehouse was hit. The original equipment Ben Franklin lightning rod did work 
and the State House is still standing ☺
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B. 
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 12:17
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker
Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki

Correct me if wrong, but I was under the impression that no wire size could 
carry the load of a lightning strike.
The grounding is to bleed off the induced charge at the top of the mast due to 
the field, which in turn reduces the lightning attraction to the mast.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL



From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>>
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 10:39 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki

Lightning is actually attracted to a grounded object.  My boat has been hit by 
lightning twice--mast was grounded to keel bolt.  Most of my electronics were 
fried each time.  So, if anyone claims that grounding works, I think they have 
been more lucky than wise.

Bob
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Stus-List Plumbing Related

[robert via CnC-List]

Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with 
sea water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker 
valve'  or the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the 
other, probably a faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.


Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the 
problem.simplest way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco 
pump assembly for $100.


One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from 
old pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3 
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.


FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C&C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



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Stus-List Interesting Electrical Problem

[Ian Matthew via CnC-List]

Hi,

I am soliciting help from this incredibly wise forum.  I thought at first
this was a random problem, but now it has happened twice, I am not sure.

I have had a 'surge' blow my electronics, AM/FM radio and my navigation
lights twice in 2 years.  I can't afford to replace my electronics again
after I've installed this 3rd replacement.  In both cases, my knotmeter /
depth gauge blew, my AM/FM radio fried and the incandescent light bulbs in
my running lights blew.  In all cases, not a single fuse blew.
Interestingly, my mast lights were OK, my VHF radio was OK and my cabin
lights were OK.  The first time all were on, this time the AM/FM radio and
instruments were on, but the running lights were off.

I am thinking it may be a voltage regulator problem on my alternator, I
have an A-4, but can't be sure.  Maybe the safest thing is to replace it
anyway.  (Last time this happened, I had my mechanic check the alternator
and he couldn't find anything wrong.)

One other solution could be to run my electronics and AM/FM radio (when I
replace it) off a separate circuit which is not charged by the engine.
That would keep the circuit isolated perhaps.

Anyone had this happen to them or have any ideas?

BTW - I don't cruise in my boat, just race socharging the battery through
shore power is not going to be a problem.

-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1
San Francisco Bay
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Did it fix the original problem?

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related

Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with sea
water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve'  or
the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably a
faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the problem.simplest
way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for $100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C&C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



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are greatly appreciated!


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Stus-List Plumbing Related

[robert via CnC-List]

Yes, took the boat for a sail as soon as the new pump was 
installed.15% to 20% heel on both tacks.dry 'bowel'.


In fact, when I emptied the bowel of water (dry bowel switch) with the 
old pump, water would seep back into the bowel to probably 'water 
level'  or 'sea level'.  Now with the new pump, the bowel is virtually 
dry and stays that way.just a few ounces of water the new pump can't 
possibly pick up and discharge.


Well worth the investment and effort.

Rob Abbott



On 2016-07-26 3:40 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List wrote:

Did it fix the original problem?

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related

Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with sea
water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve'  or
the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably a
faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the problem.simplest
way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for $100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C&C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



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Re: Stus-List Interesting Electrical Problem

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Are you sure it wasn't a lightning strike?
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 2:37 PM, Ian Matthew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I am soliciting help from this incredibly wise forum.  I thought at first
> this was a random problem, but now it has happened twice, I am not sure.
>
> I have had a 'surge' blow my electronics, AM/FM radio and my navigation
> lights twice in 2 years.  I can't afford to replace my electronics again
> after I've installed this 3rd replacement.  In both cases, my knotmeter /
> depth gauge blew, my AM/FM radio fried and the incandescent light bulbs in
> my running lights blew.  In all cases, not a single fuse blew.
> Interestingly, my mast lights were OK, my VHF radio was OK and my cabin
> lights were OK.  The first time all were on, this time the AM/FM radio and
> instruments were on, but the running lights were off.
>
> I am thinking it may be a voltage regulator problem on my alternator, I
> have an A-4, but can't be sure.  Maybe the safest thing is to replace it
> anyway.  (Last time this happened, I had my mechanic check the alternator
> and he couldn't find anything wrong.)
>
> One other solution could be to run my electronics and AM/FM radio (when I
> replace it) off a separate circuit which is not charged by the engine.
> That would keep the circuit isolated perhaps.
>
> Anyone had this happen to them or have any ideas?
>
> BTW - I don't cruise in my boat, just race socharging the battery through
> shore power is not going to be a problem.
>
> --
> Ian Matthew
> "Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1
> San Francisco Bay
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I have a similar problem with my jabsco head. It was a brand new
replacement for the original that I installed about 4 years ago. The other
night we were sleeping aboard and I got up in the middle of the night for a
bio break and lo and behold, the bowl was full! Right to the rim but not
overflowing! Lucky me, I thought, that it didn't sink the boat!

Well being the middle of the night my head wasn't totally screwed on. Of
course, the bowl had been overflowing quite a bit and the bilge was full to
the brim! (I had turned off the bilge pump earlier that day for some
reason)... anyway .. long story short, thanks for recounting your
experience. I now know what I have to do and what will be involved so I'm a
whole lot less worried about it :)

Replacing the head and hoses was the filthiest job I've ever done and I'm
glad not to have to repeat (much) of it.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 2:40 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Did it fix the original problem?
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert
> Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related
>
> Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with sea
> water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve'  or
> the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably a
> faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.
>
> Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
> problem.simplest
> way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for $100.
>
> One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
> pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
> hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.
>
> FYi for anyone having a similar problem.
>
> Rob Abbott
>
> AZURA
>
> C&C 32 - 84
>
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

[robert via CnC-List]

Stevan:

This was the replacement part I bought:

http://ca.binnacle.com/Plumbing-&-Pumps-Toilets/c31_209/p6899/ITT-TWIST-&-LOCK-TOILET-PUMP-ASSEMBLY-29040-3000/product_info.html


Rob Abbott




On 2016-07-26 3:50 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
I have a similar problem with my jabsco head. It was a brand new 
replacement for the original that I installed about 4 years ago. The 
other night we were sleeping aboard and I got up in the middle of the 
night for a bio break and lo and behold, the bowl was full! Right to 
the rim but not overflowing! Lucky me, I thought, that it didn't sink 
the boat!


Well being the middle of the night my head wasn't totally screwed on. 
Of course, the bowl had been overflowing quite a bit and the bilge was 
full to the brim! (I had turned off the bilge pump earlier that day 
for some reason)... anyway .. long story short, thanks for recounting 
your experience. I now know what I have to do and what will be 
involved so I'm a whole lot less worried about it :)


Replacing the head and hoses was the filthiest job I've ever done and 
I'm glad not to have to repeat (much) of it.


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 2:40 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Did it fix the original problem?

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related

Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing
with sea
water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker
valve'  or
the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other,
probably a
faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
problem.simplest
way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for
$100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses
from old
pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C&C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I have fixed similar problems with new joker valve for less than $10.  Easy
to install by removing the pump body with 4 self tapping screws. While you
have pump off it is a good time to clean and lubricate the pump.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or


On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 11:40 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Did it fix the original problem?
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert
> Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related
>
> Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with sea
> water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve'  or
> the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably a
> faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.
>
> Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
> problem.simplest
> way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for $100.
>
> One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
> pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
> hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.
>
> FYi for anyone having a similar problem.
>
> Rob Abbott
>
> AZURA
>
> C&C 32 - 84
>
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Interesting Electrical Problem

[Ian Matthew via CnC-List]

Almost never get lightning here. And I was on the boat simply motoring away
from the dock when it happened.

On Tuesday, July 26, 2016, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Are you sure it wasn't a lightning strike?
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C&C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~
>


-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C&C 29 mk 1
San Francisco Bay

Sent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile
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Stus-List Plumbing Related

[robert via CnC-List]

Stevan:

If you decide to replace the pump, tip..make sure you have a 'long' 
Philips screwdriver or a 'very short' one or better still, and 'offset 
Philips screwdriver' to access one of the four screws.the bottom 
right screw is a tight fit to get a regular screwdriver down to the 
screw between the pump and the wall.


Naturally, I found that out the hard way..left my 'offset Philips 
screwdriver' at home and didn't have a very long or very short one on 
the boat.


Rob Abbott





On 2016-07-26 3:50 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
I have a similar problem with my jabsco head. It was a brand new 
replacement for the original that I installed about 4 years ago. The 
other night we were sleeping aboard and I got up in the middle of the 
night for a bio break and lo and behold, the bowl was full! Right to 
the rim but not overflowing! Lucky me, I thought, that it didn't sink 
the boat!


Well being the middle of the night my head wasn't totally screwed on. 
Of course, the bowl had been overflowing quite a bit and the bilge 
was full to the brim! (I had turned off the bilge pump earlier that 
day for some reason)... anyway .. long story short, thanks for 
recounting your experience. I now know what I have to do and what 
will be involved so I'm a whole lot less worried about it :)


Replacing the head and hoses was the filthiest job I've ever done and 
I'm glad not to have to repeat (much) of it.


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 2:40 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Did it fix the original problem?

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related

Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and
overflowing with sea
water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker
valve'  or
the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other,
probably a
faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
problem.simplest
way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for
$100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses
from old
pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C&C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

[David Paine via CnC-List]

Just for the record, you do not want to be dependent on the head pump to
keep your boat afloat as the valves in these things can and do fail.  Sea
water overflowing the bowl probably means that there is a siphon between
the head and the though hull (or worse).   Replacing the pump just delays
sinking until it fails.  The two solutions are a high loop with a siphon
break or one can (as I do) always close the through-hull when finished your
ablutions. Just say'n.

On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 2:56 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Stevan:
>
> This was the replacement part I bought:
>
>
> http://ca.binnacle.com/Plumbing-&-Pumps-Toilets/c31_209/p6899/ITT-TWIST-&-LOCK-TOILET-PUMP-ASSEMBLY-29040-3000/product_info.html
>
>
> Rob Abbott
>
>
>
>
> On 2016-07-26 3:50 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I have a similar problem with my jabsco head. It was a brand new
> replacement for the original that I installed about 4 years ago. The other
> night we were sleeping aboard and I got up in the middle of the night for a
> bio break and lo and behold, the bowl was full! Right to the rim but not
> overflowing! Lucky me, I thought, that it didn't sink the boat!
>
> Well being the middle of the night my head wasn't totally screwed on. Of
> course, the bowl had been overflowing quite a bit and the bilge was full to
> the brim! (I had turned off the bilge pump earlier that day for some
> reason)... anyway .. long story short, thanks for recounting your
> experience. I now know what I have to do and what will be involved so I'm a
> whole lot less worried about it :)
>
> Replacing the head and hoses was the filthiest job I've ever done and I'm
> glad not to have to repeat (much) of it.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 2:40 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Did it fix the original problem?
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
>> via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: robert
>> Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related
>>
>> Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with
>> sea
>> water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve'
>> or
>> the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably
>> a
>> faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.
>>
>> Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
>> problem.simplest
>> way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for $100.
>>
>> One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
>> pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
>> hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.
>>
>> FYi for anyone having a similar problem.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>>
>> AZURA
>>
>> C&C 32 - 84
>>
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions
>> are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Interesting Electrical Problem

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I can imagine a loose connection on the battery terminal while charging
could cause a large voltage spike from the alternator.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 3:04 PM, Ian Matthew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Almost never get lightning here. And I was on the boat simply motoring
> away from the dock when it happened.
>
>
> On Tuesday, July 26, 2016, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Are you sure it wasn't a lightning strike?
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C&C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~_/)~
>>
>
>
> --
> Ian Matthew
> "Siento el Viento" C&C 29 mk 1
> San Francisco Bay
>
> Sent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

  
  


I have a patient who was hit twice by lightning.  Once in her
  house - it hit a tree outside, part of the bolt bounced off, came
  through her window and hit her in the back of the head while she
  was sitting in a chair.  No reason - other than you can't
  effectively predict what is going to happen.

From what I've read there is so much energy flowing within a
  lightning bolt that it's jumping along any path it can find. Even
  if you offer a grounded path there can be enough excess flow that
  will skip off the path and damage surrounding areas.  Or if the
  grounding wire is not straight some of the electricity won't be
  able to follow the curve of the wire and will jump to other areas
  (thus I'm not thinking stainless chain would offer the best
  grounding path).
I don't have a good solution.  I'm interested in learning more
  from the discussion.



Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2016-07-26 2:10 PM, S Thomas via
  CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  I know a guy who has a length of
  stainless steel chain stored on deck and connected to the
  shrouds on each side of the boat. He dumps the chain in the
  water when he thinks it appropriate. His boat was hit by
  lightning in the past, but not since he got the chains, so he
  does not really know how good it works. 
   
  My big fear would be having the
  lightning blow out through the transducers and or thru hulls,
  which has been know to happen. Probably nothing will save the
  electronics, except maybe a portable radio stored in the oven,
  but the extra conductors might carry away enough energy to
  prevent a boat-sinking hole in the hull. At least that is the
  theory. There are a lot of sailboats that have been hit by
  lightning which failed to sink. That nothing reliable in
  terms of protection knowledge has come out of all of these
  close calls only goes to show how much luck is involved.  
   
  Last week a soft ball player in
  Nova Scotia was hit and survived. As she reached out to open
  the door on a storage shed, the shed was struck by lightning.
  The current went up her arm and out her foot, with only minor
  burns to the surface of her skin, but her clothing was "blown
  to bits". After a night's observation in hospital, she
  reported still feeling weak from having all her muscles
  contracted, but otherwise ok.
   
  Steve Thomas
  C&C27 MKIII
  Port Stanley, ON
  
- Original Message - 
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Sent: Tuesday, July 26,
  2016 12:16
Subject: Re: Stus-List
  Grounding a mast - 30mki


Thanks to Joe and everyone else who replied. 
  After reading a few articles like this one - http://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/-11222-1.html,
  it sounds like there is little consensus on lightning
  protection for sailboats.  I'd be curious to know what sort of
  lightning protection, if any, comes standard on new boats from
  the well-regarded manufacturers of heavy displacement cruisers
  like Hallberg Rassy etc.  I just searched the manual for a new
  HR boat and there's no mention of lightning or lightning
  protection at all.
  
  
  Someone raised the point on one forum that inviting this
massive amount of energy into your boat is a bad idea (IE a
cable going from the mast to a keel bolt).  Not sure whether
this is a well-founded concern or not, but I'm leaning
towards Joe's idea of clipping some jumpstart cables to the
shrouds and hanging them overboard next time I'm caught out
in a storm.  

  
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Bob,

Glad you went the new pump assembly route.  I've been advocating that over
a rebuild kit for years.

I remove and clean the joker valve on my Jabsco compact a couple times a
year.  It's a 10 minute job.  I also flush with vinegar to reduce scale
build up also.  It's a frequent job.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 1:29 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with
> sea water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker
> valve'  or the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other,
> probably a faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.
>
> Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
> problem.simplest way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump
> assembly for $100.
>
> One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
> pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
> hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.
>
> FYi for anyone having a similar problem.
>
> Rob Abbott
>
> AZURA
>
> C&C 32 - 84
>
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

[Ken via CnC-List]

 
Glad this fixed it for you. SOP for my head is closing the seawater-in
valve after each use (I do not have a high loop or anti-siphon valve).
I once left seawater-in open, relying on the dry/flush valve built in
to the pump to keep water from coming in, and after a few hours the
water level in the bowl was the same as the water level outside the
hull! I have sense rebuilt the head, but always open and close the
value each "sitting" - belt and suspenders…
 
I also added a small Jabsco inline filter this spring to keep hard and
soft debris out of the pump and bowl. With a plastic bore in the pump
this should extend the life of the pump.
 
Ken
 
C&C 33-1
 
 
On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 15:48:06 -0300, robert via CnC-List  wrote:

  Yes, took the boat for a sail as soon as the new pump was
installed.15% to 20% heel on both tacks.dry 'bowel'.

In fact, when I emptied the bowel of water (dry bowel switch) with the
old pump, water would seep back into the bowel to probably 'water
level' or 'sea level'. Now with the new pump, the bowel is virtually
dry and stays that way.just a few ounces of water the new pump can't
possibly pick up and discharge.

Well worth the investment and effort.

Rob Abbott

On 2016-07-26 3:40 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List wrote:

Did it fix the original problem?

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related

Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with sea
water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve' or
the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably a
faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the problem.simplest
way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for $100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C&C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



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Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Stus-List Plumbing Related

[robert via CnC-List]

Fred:

There are only two logical ways water can fill the bowel, I think.

And a faulty 'joker valve' in my case would not have caused my bowel to 
fill.  Just to be sure it was not the 'joker valve', I closed the thru 
hull for the discharge but not the 'water intake' to the head, and the 
bowel would fillonly on port tack.


If I opened the discharge thru hull but closed the 'water intake thru 
hull', the bowel would not fill with water.


So I came to the conclusion, it was a faulty value/seal/O ring etc. in 
the pump allowing sea water to enter the bowel.


Did I waste $90?

Rob Abbott

PS:  My discharge hose goes to a Y valve mounted high on the starboard 
side under the V-berth to allow discharge to either the holding tank or 
overboard.




On 2016-07-26 4:03 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:
I have fixed similar problems with new joker valve for less than $10.  
Easy to install by removing the pump body with 4 self tapping screws. 
While you have pump off it is a good time to clean and lubricate the 
pump.


Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or


On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 11:40 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Did it fix the original problem?

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related

Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing
with sea
water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker
valve'  or
the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other,
probably a
faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
problem.simplest
way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for
$100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses
from old
pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C&C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



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Contributions
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

[robert via CnC-List]

Dennis:

The Binnacle had the rebuild kit but it cost almost as much as a new 
pump..and the new pump seemed a breeze to install, which it was.


Rob Abbott


On 2016-07-26 4:17 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Bob,

Glad you went the new pump assembly route.  I've been advocating that 
over a rebuild kit for years.


I remove and clean the joker valve on my Jabsco compact a couple times 
a year.  It's a 10 minute job.  I also flush with vinegar to reduce 
scale build up also.  It's a frequent job.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 1:29 PM, robert via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing
with sea water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty
'choker valve'  or the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be
one or the other, probably a faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
problem.simplest way to address it was to get a whole new
Jabsco pump assembly for $100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses
from old pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place,
connect the 3 hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have
experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C&C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



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Stus-List Plumbing Related

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Rob,

You did it right. I rebuilt mine twice and had to replace the whole 
assembly shortly after the 2nd rebuild as the plastic holding the selector 
valve was worn.. They may be good for 1 rebuild but for me and our usage 
(Typically spending weekends with a family of 4) it's just not worth 
fooling with to save 15 - 30 bucks. Next time I just buy a whole new 
assembly. 

Couple things I learned: 

 - When sailing make sure the selector is on the "black" side and the pump 
in the locked position as it the to official "closed" setup that prevents 
spills even with heavy heeling with the through hull open (Safest is just 
to close it between uses though) 

- Here's the kicker:  However, when leaving the boat (With all through 
hulls closed)or when just not using the head for a while,  I make sure I 
have the pump handle set right next to the closed position detent but I 
don't engage it. Leaving it fully locked puts pressure on the rubber 
piston pushing it against a small ridge and if you leave it like that for 
a long period will permanently indent the rubber seal area and cause it to 
leak.  Of course the through hull has to be closed.  So far there are no 
smells even after a week or so in the hot Georgia summer and the pump 
works well. 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA






Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with 
sea water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker 
valve'  or the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the 
other, probably a faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the 
problem.simplest way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco 
pump assembly for $100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from 
old pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3 
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C&C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.
Regards



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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related - flood from toilet

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

Second that.  Also, the "wet bowl" position on the flush valve should be
called "wet boat" (if forgotten).

Dave



Message: 3
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2016 15:06:19 -0400
From: David Paine 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Just for the record, you do not want to be dependent on the head pump to
keep your boat afloat as the valves in these things can and do fail.  Sea
water overflowing the bowl probably means that there is a siphon between
the head and the though hull (or worse).   Replacing the pump just delays
sinking until it fails.  The two solutions are a high loop with a siphon
break or one can (as I do) always close the through-hull when finished your
ablutions. Just say'n.
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Interesting!
"I make sure I have the pump handle set right next to the closed position
detent but I don't engage it. Leaving it fully locked puts pressure on the
rubber piston pushing it against a small ridge and if you leave it like
that for a long period will permanently indent the rubber seal area and
cause it to leak."

We use our toilet very infrequently. If we're at the marina we use the
marina toilets (unless it's the middle of the night). When we had the boat
in Toronto we mostly NEVER used it with the exception of longer cruises or
weekends. So, very infrequent use. I figured that the infrequent use was
part of the culprit of our failing pump (at only 4 years old with minimal
use seems a disappointment) - so yeah, the above is very handy info.

Thanks!

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

You did good.  A rebuild kit is about $70 and pita.

Fred

On Jul 26, 2016 12:24 PM, "robert"  wrote:

> Fred:
>
> There are only two logical ways water can fill the bowel, I think.
>
> And a faulty 'joker valve' in my case would not have caused my bowel to
> fill.  Just to be sure it was not the 'joker valve', I closed the thru hull
> for the discharge but not the 'water intake' to the head, and the bowel
> would fillonly on port tack.
>
> If I opened the discharge thru hull but closed the 'water intake thru
> hull', the bowel would not fill with water.
>
> So I came to the conclusion, it was a faulty value/seal/O ring etc. in the
> pump allowing sea water to enter the bowel.
>
> Did I waste $90?
>
> Rob Abbott
>
> PS:  My discharge hose goes to a Y valve mounted high on the starboard
> side under the V-berth to allow discharge to either the holding tank or
> overboard.
>
>
>
> On 2016-07-26 4:03 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I have fixed similar problems with new joker valve for less than $10.
> Easy to install by removing the pump body with 4 self tapping screws. While
> you have pump off it is a good time to clean and lubricate the pump.
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C&C 44
> Portland, Or
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 11:40 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Did it fix the original problem?
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
>> via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: robert
>> Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related
>>
>> Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with
>> sea
>> water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve'
>> or
>> the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably
>> a
>> faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.
>>
>> Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
>> problem.simplest
>> way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for $100.
>>
>> One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
>> pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
>> hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.
>>
>> FYi for anyone having a similar problem.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>>
>> AZURA
>>
>> C&C 32 - 84
>>
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions
>> are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

[robert via CnC-List]

And a whole new pump assembly contains a new 'joker valve' (approx. $17) 
which you don't get with a $70 rebuild kit.


It was a 'no brainer'.

Rob


On 2016-07-26 5:00 PM, Fred Hazzard wrote:


You did good.  A rebuild kit is about $70 and pita.

Fred


On Jul 26, 2016 12:24 PM, "robert" > wrote:


Fred:

There are only two logical ways water can fill the bowel, I think.

And a faulty 'joker valve' in my case would not have caused my
bowel to fill.  Just to be sure it was not the 'joker valve', I
closed the thru hull for the discharge but not the 'water intake'
to the head, and the bowel would fillonly on port tack.

If I opened the discharge thru hull but closed the 'water intake
thru hull', the bowel would not fill with water.

So I came to the conclusion, it was a faulty value/seal/O ring
etc. in the pump allowing sea water to enter the bowel.

Did I waste $90?

Rob Abbott

PS:  My discharge hose goes to a Y valve mounted high on the
starboard side under the V-berth to allow discharge to either the
holding tank or overboard.



On 2016-07-26 4:03 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:

I have fixed similar problems with new joker valve for less than
$10.  Easy to install by removing the pump body with 4 self
tapping screws. While you have pump off it is a good time to
clean and lubricate the pump.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or


On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 11:40 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Did it fix the original problem?

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related

Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and
overflowing with sea
water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty
'choker valve'  or
the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the
other, probably a
faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
problem.simplest
way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly
for $100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3
hoses from old
pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place,
connect the 3
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C&C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions
are greatly appreciated!


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costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




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Contributions are greatly appreciated!




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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Yep.  My experience has been the rebuild kit is about $70 and the pump
assembly around $100.  However the rebuild is about 1.5-2 hours and the
pump assembly replacement is about 30-45 minutes.

Amazing how many of my customers still wanted the rebuild kit.  Even when I
told them my labor rate would make the total price more.

Dennis C.

On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 2:29 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Dennis:
>
> The Binnacle had the rebuild kit but it cost almost as much as a new
> pump..and the new pump seemed a breeze to install, which it was.
>
> Rob Abbott
>
> On 2016-07-26 4:17 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Bob,
>
> Glad you went the new pump assembly route.  I've been advocating that over
> a rebuild kit for years.
>
> I remove and clean the joker valve on my Jabsco compact a couple times a
> year.  It's a 10 minute job.  I also flush with vinegar to reduce scale
> build up also.  It's a frequent job.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 1:29 PM, robert via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with
>> sea water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker
>> valve'  or the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other,
>> probably a faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.
>>
>> Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
>> problem.simplest way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump
>> assembly for $100.
>>
>> One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
>> pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
>> hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.
>>
>> FYi for anyone having a similar problem.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>>
>> AZURA
>>
>> C&C 32 - 84
>>
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot and accessories for sale

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

I have a Raymarine autopilot and accessories for sale.  Ref link to ad and
note the OBO.  

 

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/bpo/5702048189.html 

 

thanks,

 

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Stus-List PVC Insert for Cinkel Mast or Boom

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for the original PVC extrusion 
that was installed in the C&C masts/booms?
They fit into the slot, and allowed one to use a bolt rope in the foot of the 
sail, or a bolt rope to be used in the luff of the main sail, and in the foot 
of the mainsail.

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron
West River MD


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Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I've heard of using copper pipe (1/2 or 3/4) and a conduit bender.  Shape
the pipe to go as straight as possible between a keel bolt and the mast.
Then flatten the ends and drill a hole to accept a large bolt.  You can
drill and tap the very top of one of the keel bolts to accept a short
5/16ths or 3/8ths bolt and probably reuse an existing base bolt on the
mast.  Corrosion at the contacts is your enemy.  The copper will naturally
corrode with the aluminum mast and stainless bolts.  You might try tinning
the terminations with a torch and solder.  You could actually tin the whole
pipe.  You might also try tef-gel or silicone grease on the contacts.  Its
kind of a toss up between the insulating properties of the grease and the
insulating properties of corrosion.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jul 25, 2016 10:00 AM, "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hey guys,
>
> Wondering if anyone can describe to me how they've ground their mast.  I
> have a 1976 30mki and we got caught out in a very fast-moving t-storm this
> weekend and I realized I should have done this when I bought the boat last
> fall.  My mast step is not original.  It is a big, fat piece of mahogany -
> which I envision blasting apart if the mast took a direct strike.
>
> The only idea I've had is using a steel ring clamp to attach a terminal on
> a very large gauge wire (maybe 2 gauge?) to the bottom of the mast, then
> run this wire a foot or two aft and down into the bilge to a keel bolt
> where I would have a second ring clamp hold the wire's terminal to a keel
> bolt.  I worry about how this would look and I also worry whether it would
> even be effective.
>
> Anyone have a better solution?
>
> Thanks in advance.  Hope you're all having a wonderful sailing summer.
>
> Ryan
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List PVC Insert for Cinkel Mast or Boom

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Found this in a forum:

"I recently visited a small boat company in Southern Ontario near Niagara
Falls that bought up all the remaining stock of Cinkel parts when that
company went out of business.  Not only were they able to supply me with
the things I had on my list, but they took me to their stockroom to show me
the extent of their inventory. I was amazed at all the Cinkel stuff they
had.  If you need a special part for your Cinkel mast or boom, chances are
pretty good they will have it.  Contact Robert MacLachlan or Helene Taylor
at South Shore Yachts in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario L0S 1J0.  Their phone
is 905-468-4340.  You can also find them on the web at
www.southshoreyachts.com. By the way, they aren't cheap, but they are nice
folks."

Our old friend Rob.

Dennis C.

On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 7:41 PM, Don Wagner via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for the original PVC
> extrusion that was installed in the C&C masts/booms?
> They fit into the slot, and allowed one to use a bolt rope in the foot of
> the sail, or a bolt rope to be used in the luff of the main sail, and in
> the foot of the mainsail.
>
> Don Wagner
> C&C 41 CB
> Der Baron
> West River MD
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List PVC Insert for Cinkel Mast or Boom

[BillBinaList via CnC-List]

I struggled with this about 10 years ago. I spent a lot of time chasing 
leads without much success. I even found someone n the list who had some 
track. I bought it, but when I got it, it was brittle and unusable. 
Unfortunately, by now any original track is as brittle as what you have 
now. The good news is that you can now upgrade to Tides Strong Track and 
have one of the best upgrades you will ever do to your boat. The sail 
will go up and down so easily, it will seem as if it is not attached to 
the mast at all.


Bill Bina


On 7/26/2016 8:41 PM, Don Wagner via CnC-List wrote:

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for the original PVC extrusion that 
was installed in the C&C masts/booms?
They fit into the slot, and allowed one to use a bolt rope in the foot of the 
sail, or a bolt rope to be used in the luff of the main sail, and in the foot 
of the mainsail.

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron
West River MD


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Stus-List Stantion bases

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

I prefer HMP in Toronto if possible for C&C parts like stantions and bases. 
They answer the phone every time and send what you need by mail. I am 
constantly surprised by what original parts they have in stock. I found they 
had a plastic holding tank for my 1989 37+. Good service too. 
www.hollandmarine.com
There is an online catalogue and the price is fairly competitive or maybe I 
should use relatively competitive. Good luck. 
Len

Sent from my mobile device. 

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