Re: Stus-List Cheaper Tether

[Bill Bina]

Naw, you just smell a little funny! :-)

On 3/24/2014 8:03 PM, Wally Bryant wrote:

Hmm. Well, I guess I'm dead.


you wrote:
You must be able to unfasten the shackle on your harness with one 
hand while suspended off the ground with your full weight on it





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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

[Jake Brodersen]

Brian,

My boat originally  had Baltoplate.  I successfully put VC Offshore over the
top of it for a number of years without any adhesion problems.  The paints
are quite similar.  Last year I had the boat soda blasted.  I then did a
barrier coat and VC Offshore.  The hull came out of the soda blasting very
smooth.  No way could I have ever sanded it clean and left a smooth surface.
The only thing I needed to do was fill a couple of blisters and start the
barrier coat.  It's definitely the right way to go, if you plan on keeping
the boat for the long haul.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
"Midnight Mistress"
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton Va





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian
Morrison
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to
paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner
had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of
paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to
the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and
labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor
using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a
viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 

Brian C. Morrison
1979 C&C 34
Rekofa
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

[djhaug...@juno.com]

Is that with the barrier coat and bottom paint.  That's a good price of so...

T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network

- Reply message -
From: "Brian Morrison" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
Date: Mon, Mar 24, 2014 11:02 pm


Thanks. The yard gave me an estimate of about $2000. 

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

> On Mar 24, 2014, at 9:37 PM, "John and Maryann Read"  
> wrote:
> 
> Blasting by a professional - they usually use walnut shells or the like.
> Tent the bottom, blast away, clean it all up.  Typical cost for a 34 footer
> is about $1200.  Well worth it because it takes them a day to do it and how
> long will it take you and what will you have to pay your chiropractor??
> Gelcoat is usually untouched.  You do a light sanding.  Strongly suggest you
> do a barrier coat treatment at this time.  Apply paint.  Go sailing
> 
> 
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian
> Morrison
> Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
> 
> The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to
> paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner
> had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of
> paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to
> the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and
> labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor
> using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a
> viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
> 
> Brian C. Morrison
> 1979 C&C 34
> Rekofa
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 conversion

[Josh Muckley]

Joe, sorry for the confusion but I think if you re-read the thread you
might see that I was talking about the backwards compatibility of the NMEA
0183 standard.  It sounded to me like the Zeus takes 0183 v3.0.  So my
point was that it should understand 0183 v1.5.  However as one of the other
listers stated there were changes to the sentance structure in v2.1.  So it
sounds like maybe not perfect backwards compatibility.

On the other hand, I have to believe that the 0183 to 2000 converter was
engineered properly to noodle throught the nuances of different 0183
versions and convert them to 2000.  Otherwise it would specify certain 0183
versions that it works with.  Assuming the actisence converts all versions,
then it would seem to me that the Zeus could also be equally well
equipped...who knows whether or not the engineers at B&G had the sence to
do that.

If the actisence only works with specific versions and v1.5 is not one of
them then this whole discussion is pointless since that was the original
topic.

Josh
On Mar 24, 2014 9:15 AM, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

> 0183 and 2000 are totally different. They cannot be interconnected without
> a device to translate back and forth. For one thing, 0183 is a one talker -
> many listener system and 2000 is a many talker - many listener system.
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley
> *Sent:* Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:35 PM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 conversion
>
>
>
> I'm not a NMEA 0183 expert but I though the different versions were
> backwards compatible.  So if the Zeus will take NMEA 0183 (3.0) then it
> should understand ver. 1.5.  I was under the impression that the 3.0 just
> had MORE reconized "sentences".
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Mar 23, 2014 7:11 AM, "Tony Wroblewski"  wrote:
>
> Has anyone on the list used the Actisense NGW-1 for a bridge to connect
> older 0183 instruments to a 2000 network.  The plan is to use a B&G 390
> system (NMEA 0183 v. 1.5) to feed wind, speed, depth and heading data to
> B&G Zeus Touch on the 2000 bus.
>
> The other alternative is to use a Tinley 0183 New2Old converter,.  Same
> question.  Has anyone done this. I'm told the Tinley will convert a ver.
> 1.5 to ver. 3.0 and the Zeus can also take a ver. 3.0 input.
>
> Tony
> Triumph
> C&C 41 '86 c/b
>
>
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Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 conversion

[Josh Muckley]

Tony,

I guess that is why you are asking about the actisence.  To know if it is
compatible with pre-v2.1 equipment?  Is there any info on the product specs
for either the Zeus or the Actisence?  Please let the group know what you
find.

Josh
On Mar 24, 2014 7:07 AM, "Tony Wroblewski"  wrote:

> Josh, you are right, equipment is supposed to be backward compatible, but
> unfortunately some significant sentence structure changes were made btw ver
> 1.5 and 2.1 where checksums and a mode indicator were added and the # of
> decimal points were increased, so most equipment now will read back to
> about ver. 2.1 without problems.  I'm also told the Zeus may accept some
> but not all sentences.
>
> --
> Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2014 20:35:20 -0400
> From: muckl...@gmail.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 conversion
>
> I'm not a NMEA 0183 expert but I though the different versions were
> backwards compatible.  So if the Zeus will take NMEA 0183 (3.0) then it
> should understand ver. 1.5.  I was under the impression that the 3.0 just
> had MORE reconized "sentences".
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> Solomons, MD
> On Mar 23, 2014 7:11 AM, "Tony Wroblewski"  wrote:
>
> Has anyone on the list used the Actisense NGW-1 for a bridge to connect
> older 0183 instruments to a 2000 network.  The plan is to use a B&G 390
> system (NMEA 0183 v. 1.5) to feed wind, speed, depth and heading data to
> B&G Zeus Touch on the 2000 bus.
>
> The other alternative is to use a Tinley 0183 New2Old converter,.  Same
> question.  Has anyone done this. I'm told the Tinley will convert a ver.
> 1.5 to ver. 3.0 and the Zeus can also take a ver. 3.0 input.
>
> Tony
> Triumph
> C&C 41 '86 c/b
>
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

[Indigo]

I used a chemical peel product several years ago. Very happy with the result. 
Think it was called Peel Away made specifically for boats. They have two 
products -one leaves barrier coat intact the other strips it. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:19, Brian Morrison  wrote:

> The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to 
> paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner 
> had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. 
> The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the 
> gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor 
> intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using 
> some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable 
> alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
> 
> Brian C. Morrison
> 1979 C&C 34
> Rekofa 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

[Hoyt, Mike]

That price does not sound bad

My last boat and current boat I stripped to gelcoat by hand.  Paint
scraper and random orbital sander with 120 grit used carefully.  Prior
to that was pressure washing using gas powered pressure washer.  It was
4 x 8 hour days on a 26 footer and on a 27 footer each with 8 foot beam.
It would be considerably longer (probably more than double) on a 34
footer.  Meanwhiel my friend with a C&C 99 had his soda blasted in
approx. 3 hours.

A large part of your $2000 would also be the barrier coat and
antifouling paint as a good paint is over $200 / gallon and barrier coat
is not cheap either

One caution.  Make sure the barrier coat is a good product and not one
that has been on the shelf a while.  A friend had his 34 footer done and
the barrier coat was on sale and had lumps in it.  After all his work
the bottom was not smooth.  Even if you do not race then spending $2000
to have a crappy job done is still a problem.

Mike

BTW - when I took the 27 down to gelcoat there were scratch marks from a
previous sanding by a previous owner.  Looked like they used 80 grit or
coarser on a ROS.  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian
Morrison
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 12:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

Thanks. The yard gave me an estimate of about $2000. 

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

> On Mar 24, 2014, at 9:37 PM, "John and Maryann Read"
 wrote:
> 
> Blasting by a professional - they usually use walnut shells or the
like.
> Tent the bottom, blast away, clean it all up.  Typical cost for a 34 
> footer is about $1200.  Well worth it because it takes them a day to 
> do it and how long will it take you and what will you have to pay your
chiropractor??
> Gelcoat is usually untouched.  You do a light sanding.  Strongly 
> suggest you do a barrier coat treatment at this time.  Apply paint.  
> Go sailing
> 
> 
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Brian Morrison
> Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
> 
> The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time 
> to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the 
> previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a 
> different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they 
> suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this 
> will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my 
> question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I 
> may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any
advice would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Brian C. Morrison
> 1979 C&C 34
> Rekofa
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
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> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active.
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> 
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Stus-List Defender sale

[Joel Aronson]

The Defender spring sale starts on-line tomorrow at 2:00, and Thursday in
the store.

I wish I could justify the ride, but I'll have to order on-line.

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

[Gary Nylander]

I think the original note said there had been Baltoplate and then something 
else on top - and the something else was what was peeling. My impression is 
not many other paints (or anything else) stick to Baltoplate, so it has to 
be roughed up and/or stripped off, which means what is on top is the 
problem.


Unfortunately, this top coat will have to be taken off or you will end up 
just patching it every year.


Gary


- Original Message - 
From: "Jake Brodersen" 

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 5:59 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question



Brian,

My boat originally  had Baltoplate.  I successfully put VC Offshore over 
the

top of it for a number of years without any adhesion problems.  The paints
are quite similar.  Last year I had the boat soda blasted.  I then did a
barrier coat and VC Offshore.  The hull came out of the soda blasting very
smooth.  No way could I have ever sanded it clean and left a smooth 
surface.

The only thing I needed to do was fill a couple of blisters and start the
barrier coat.  It's definitely the right way to go, if you plan on keeping
the boat for the long haul.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
"Midnight Mistress"
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton Va





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian
Morrison
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to
paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous 
owner

had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of
paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to
the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and
labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or 
labor

using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a
viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Brian C. Morrison
1979 C&C 34
Rekofa
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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

[Rick Brass]

Before you even think about removing the "slide" track, go on line and make 
sure it is not a Tides Marine Strong Track. 

If it is a strong track, it is one of the better upgrades that could have been 
done on your boat. Performance is far better than you will get from sail slugs 
in an internal track. I can hoist the main on my 38 to within about 2 feet of 
the top without putting the halyard on a winch. Sand if you let the halyard go, 
the sail comes down like the blade of a guillotine. Periodic maintenance is to 
flush the rack with dish soap and fresh water.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:12, Terry pearson  wrote:
> 
> On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or similar)slide in the 
> mast track. I want to remove the "slide" track and go back to the original 
> sail slides for this mast, but I cant seem to find anything telling me the 
> proper size. the track appears to be able to accommodate either round slugs 
> or flat slides.is this possible? I tried measuring the slide slot and it 
> appears to be 15/16th wide flat slide .can anyone confirm this? 
> 
> Thanks,
> Confused:=)
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

[dwight]

Rick

I can hoist the main sail on my 35 MKII to within at least 2 feet of the top
without a winch or strong track.  My main sail is equipped with polymer
slides that measure 1.47" long by 0.87" wide by 0.31" thick, measured as
carefully as I could with the sail rolled and pack in its bag and these work
very well in the as manufactured aluminium track.  I also have to deal with
the added friction involved with leading the halyard through turning blocks
to the cockpit.  I can raise it all the way to the top without winch if I or
someone else pulls the halyard where it exits the mast.  I cleaned and
sanded the track in the mast at the same time as I sanded my mast a few
years back and I don't use any lubricant on the slides.  The sail does not
fall like the blade of a guillotine again because of friction on the halyard
from the turning blocks but I consider that a good thing as it aids me in a
controlled packing the sail without having to deal with all the sail laying
on the deck to start with... I don't have lazy jacks or my Dutchman system
installed and I usually end up packing my mainsail alone the way I like it
done, hopefully training it to fall the same way every time.  Maybe I am
just a very strong man for my age.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: March 25, 2014 11:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

Before you even think about removing the "slide" track, go on line and make
sure it is not a Tides Marine Strong Track. 

If it is a strong track, it is one of the better upgrades that could have
been done on your boat. Performance is far better than you will get from
sail slugs in an internal track. I can hoist the main on my 38 to within
about 2 feet of the top without putting the halyard on a winch. Sand if you
let the halyard go, the sail comes down like the blade of a guillotine.
Periodic maintenance is to flush the rack with dish soap and fresh water.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:12, Terry pearson  wrote:
> 
> On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or similar)slide in
the mast track. I want to remove the "slide" track and go back to the
original sail slides for this mast, but I cant seem to find anything telling
me the proper size. the track appears to be able to accommodate either round
slugs or flat slides.is this possible? I tried measuring the slide slot and
it appears to be 15/16th wide flat slide .can anyone confirm this? 
> 
> Thanks,
> Confused:=)
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 conversion

[Monty Schumpert]

I had a similar issue with 0183 to 2000 conversion. I bought the B&G Triton 
wind, speed, depth package, thinking that I would take the mast down this year 
to install the wind transducer, and that I could install the speed, depth,temp 
transducer in the old housing. Neither of those installations were possible 
this year, so I was left with converting data from old Raytheon ST60 displays 
to the new 2000 system. I had a Raymarine seatalk to seatalk ng converter which 
came with a GPS receiver I bought several years ago so I fed the seatalk data 
from the ST60 wind and tridata heads to the converter and bought a seatalk ng 
to NMEA2000 cable which plugs into a T in the 2000 backbone. Everything works 
fine and all data appears on the new displays. Next year when I haul the boat, 
I'll replace the depth, speed, temp transducer and the mast head wind system.


Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 25, 2014, at 6:07 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
> Joe, sorry for the confusion but I think if you re-read the thread you might 
> see that I was talking about the backwards compatibility of the NMEA 0183 
> standard.  It sounded to me like the Zeus takes 0183 v3.0.  So my point was 
> that it should understand 0183 v1.5.  However as one of the other listers 
> stated there were changes to the sentance structure in v2.1.  So it sounds 
> like maybe not perfect backwards compatibility. 
> 
> On the other hand, I have to believe that the 0183 to 2000 converter was 
> engineered properly to noodle throught the nuances of different 0183 versions 
> and convert them to 2000.  Otherwise it would specify certain 0183 versions 
> that it works with.  Assuming the actisence converts all versions, then it 
> would seem to me that the Zeus could also be equally well equipped...who 
> knows whether or not the engineers at B&G had the sence to do that.
> 
> If the actisence only works with specific versions and v1.5 is not one of 
> them then this whole discussion is pointless since that was the original 
> topic.
> 
> Josh
> 
>> On Mar 24, 2014 9:15 AM, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:
>> 0183 and 2000 are totally different. They cannot be interconnected without a 
>> device to translate back and forth. For one thing, 0183 is a one talker – 
>> many listener system and 2000 is a many talker – many listener system.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Joe Della Barba
>> 
>> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
>> Muckley
>> Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:35 PM
>> To: C&C List
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 conversion
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I'm not a NMEA 0183 expert but I though the different versions were 
>> backwards compatible.  So if the Zeus will take NMEA 0183 (3.0) then it 
>> should understand ver. 1.5.  I was under the impression that the 3.0 just 
>> had MORE reconized "sentences".
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> On Mar 23, 2014 7:11 AM, "Tony Wroblewski"  wrote:
>> 
>> Has anyone on the list used the Actisense NGW-1 for a bridge to connect 
>> older 0183 instruments to a 2000 network.  The plan is to use a B&G 390 
>> system (NMEA 0183 v. 1.5) to feed wind, speed, depth and heading data to B&G 
>> Zeus Touch on the 2000 bus. 
>> 
>> The other alternative is to use a Tinley 0183 New2Old converter,.  Same 
>> question.  Has anyone done this. I'm told the Tinley will convert a ver. 1.5 
>> to ver. 3.0 and the Zeus can also take a ver. 3.0 input.
>> 
>> Tony
>> Triumph
>> C&C 41 '86 c/b
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

[Brian Morrison]

That is the case somewhat Gary. In most areas it peeled down to the gelcoat. If 
I could get away with one season of painting on top of what's there without too 
many issues I would take that.

Brian

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

> On Mar 25, 2014, at 9:58 AM, "Gary Nylander"  wrote:
> 
> I think the original note said there had been Baltoplate and then something 
> else on top - and the something else was what was peeling. My impression is 
> not many other paints (or anything else) stick to Baltoplate, so it has to be 
> roughed up and/or stripped off, which means what is on top is the problem.
> 
> Unfortunately, this top coat will have to be taken off or you will end up 
> just patching it every year.
> 
> Gary
> 
> 
> - Original Message - From: "Jake Brodersen" 
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 5:59 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
> 
> 
>> Brian,
>> 
>> My boat originally  had Baltoplate.  I successfully put VC Offshore over the
>> top of it for a number of years without any adhesion problems.  The paints
>> are quite similar.  Last year I had the boat soda blasted.  I then did a
>> barrier coat and VC Offshore.  The hull came out of the soda blasting very
>> smooth.  No way could I have ever sanded it clean and left a smooth surface.
>> The only thing I needed to do was fill a couple of blisters and start the
>> barrier coat.  It's definitely the right way to go, if you plan on keeping
>> the boat for the long haul.
>> 
>> Jake
>> 
>> Jake Brodersen
>> "Midnight Mistress"
>> C&C 35 Mk-III
>> Hampton Va
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian
>> Morrison
>> Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
>> 
>> The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to
>> paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner
>> had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of
>> paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to
>> the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and
>> labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor
>> using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a
>> viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>> 
>> Brian C. Morrison
>> 1979 C&C 34
>> Rekofa
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>> 
>> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 conversion

[Josh Muckley]

Monty,

Can you give any details on what version of MNEA 0183 your instruments are
using.

Thanks,
Josh
On Mar 25, 2014 11:25 AM, "Monty Schumpert"  wrote:

> I had a similar issue with 0183 to 2000 conversion. I bought the B&G
> Triton wind, speed, depth package, thinking that I would take the mast down
> this year to install the wind transducer, and that I could install the
> speed, depth,temp transducer in the old housing. Neither of those
> installations were possible this year, so I was left with converting data
> from old Raytheon ST60 displays to the new 2000 system. I had a Raymarine
> seatalk to seatalk ng converter which came with a GPS receiver I bought
> several years ago so I fed the seatalk data from the ST60 wind and tridata
> heads to the converter and bought a seatalk ng to NMEA2000 cable which
> plugs into a T in the 2000 backbone. Everything works fine and all data
> appears on the new displays. Next year when I haul the boat, I'll replace
> the depth, speed, temp transducer and the mast head wind system.
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Mar 25, 2014, at 6:07 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
> Joe, sorry for the confusion but I think if you re-read the thread you
> might see that I was talking about the backwards compatibility of the NMEA
> 0183 standard.  It sounded to me like the Zeus takes 0183 v3.0.  So my
> point was that it should understand 0183 v1.5.  However as one of the other
> listers stated there were changes to the sentance structure in v2.1.  So it
> sounds like maybe not perfect backwards compatibility.
>
> On the other hand, I have to believe that the 0183 to 2000 converter was
> engineered properly to noodle throught the nuances of different 0183
> versions and convert them to 2000.  Otherwise it would specify certain 0183
> versions that it works with.  Assuming the actisence converts all versions,
> then it would seem to me that the Zeus could also be equally well
> equipped...who knows whether or not the engineers at B&G had the sence to
> do that.
>
> If the actisence only works with specific versions and v1.5 is not one of
> them then this whole discussion is pointless since that was the original
> topic.
>
> Josh
> On Mar 24, 2014 9:15 AM, "Della Barba, Joe" 
> wrote:
>
>> 0183 and 2000 are totally different. They cannot be interconnected
>> without a device to translate back and forth. For one thing, 0183 is a one
>> talker - many listener system and 2000 is a many talker - many listener
>> system.
>>
>>
>>
>> *Joe Della Barba*
>>
>> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
>> Muckley
>> *Sent:* Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:35 PM
>> *To:* C&C List
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 conversion
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm not a NMEA 0183 expert but I though the different versions were
>> backwards compatible.  So if the Zeus will take NMEA 0183 (3.0) then it
>> should understand ver. 1.5.  I was under the impression that the 3.0 just
>> had MORE reconized "sentences".
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Mar 23, 2014 7:11 AM, "Tony Wroblewski"  wrote:
>>
>> Has anyone on the list used the Actisense NGW-1 for a bridge to connect
>> older 0183 instruments to a 2000 network.  The plan is to use a B&G 390
>> system (NMEA 0183 v. 1.5) to feed wind, speed, depth and heading data to
>> B&G Zeus Touch on the 2000 bus.
>>
>> The other alternative is to use a Tinley 0183 New2Old converter,.  Same
>> question.  Has anyone done this. I'm told the Tinley will convert a ver.
>> 1.5 to ver. 3.0 and the Zeus can also take a ver. 3.0 input.
>>
>> Tony
>> Triumph
>> C&C 41 '86 c/b
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 conversion

[Della Barba, Joe]

http://www.sailsoft.nl/

They have a free trial. You can inject the sentences you are interested in and 
see what happens.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 12:17 PM
To: C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 conversion


Monty,

Can you give any details on what version of MNEA 0183 your instruments are 
using.

Thanks,
Josh
On Mar 25, 2014 11:25 AM, "Monty Schumpert" 
mailto:jmschump...@verizon.net>> wrote:
I had a similar issue with 0183 to 2000 conversion. I bought the B&G Triton 
wind, speed, depth package, thinking that I would take the mast down this year 
to install the wind transducer, and that I could install the speed, depth,temp 
transducer in the old housing. Neither of those installations were possible 
this year, so I was left with converting data from old Raytheon ST60 displays 
to the new 2000 system. I had a Raymarine seatalk to seatalk ng converter which 
came with a GPS receiver I bought several years ago so I fed the seatalk data 
from the ST60 wind and tridata heads to the converter and bought a seatalk ng 
to NMEA2000 cable which plugs into a T in the 2000 backbone. Everything works 
fine and all data appears on the new displays. Next year when I haul the boat, 
I'll replace the depth, speed, temp transducer and the mast head wind system.


Sent from my iPad

On Mar 25, 2014, at 6:07 AM, Josh Muckley 
mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Joe, sorry for the confusion but I think if you re-read the thread you might 
see that I was talking about the backwards compatibility of the NMEA 0183 
standard.  It sounded to me like the Zeus takes 0183 v3.0.  So my point was 
that it should understand 0183 v1.5.  However as one of the other listers 
stated there were changes to the sentance structure in v2.1.  So it sounds like 
maybe not perfect backwards compatibility.

On the other hand, I have to believe that the 0183 to 2000 converter was 
engineered properly to noodle throught the nuances of different 0183 versions 
and convert them to 2000.  Otherwise it would specify certain 0183 versions 
that it works with.  Assuming the actisence converts all versions, then it 
would seem to me that the Zeus could also be equally well equipped...who knows 
whether or not the engineers at B&G had the sence to do that.

If the actisence only works with specific versions and v1.5 is not one of them 
then this whole discussion is pointless since that was the original topic.

Josh
On Mar 24, 2014 9:15 AM, "Della Barba, Joe" 
mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>> wrote:
0183 and 2000 are totally different. They cannot be interconnected without a 
device to translate back and forth. For one thing, 0183 is a one talker - many 
listener system and 2000 is a many talker - many listener system.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Josh Muckley
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:35 PM
To: C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 conversion


I'm not a NMEA 0183 expert but I though the different versions were backwards 
compatible.  So if the Zeus will take NMEA 0183 (3.0) then it should understand 
ver. 1.5.  I was under the impression that the 3.0 just had MORE reconized 
"sentences".

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
Solomons, MD
On Mar 23, 2014 7:11 AM, "Tony Wroblewski" 
mailto:triump...@hotmail.com>> wrote:
Has anyone on the list used the Actisense NGW-1 for a bridge to connect older 
0183 instruments to a 2000 network.  The plan is to use a B&G 390 system (NMEA 
0183 v. 1.5) to feed wind, speed, depth and heading data to B&G Zeus Touch on 
the 2000 bus.

The other alternative is to use a Tinley 0183 New2Old converter,.  Same 
question.  Has anyone done this. I'm told the Tinley will convert a ver. 1.5 to 
ver. 3.0 and the Zeus can also take a ver. 3.0 input.

Tony
Triumph
C&C 41 '86 c/b

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Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 conversion

[Monty Schumpert]

Josh,
Not sure. Will find out when I return from skiing Friday. They are old 
though--installed around 2000, and Raytheon vice Raymarine.

Monty
Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:16 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
> Monty,
> 
> Can you give any details on what version of MNEA 0183 your instruments are 
> using.
> 
> Thanks,
> Josh
> 
>> On Mar 25, 2014 11:25 AM, "Monty Schumpert"  wrote:
>> I had a similar issue with 0183 to 2000 conversion. I bought the B&G Triton 
>> wind, speed, depth package, thinking that I would take the mast down this 
>> year to install the wind transducer, and that I could install the speed, 
>> depth,temp transducer in the old housing. Neither of those installations 
>> were possible this year, so I was left with converting data from old 
>> Raytheon ST60 displays to the new 2000 system. I had a Raymarine seatalk to 
>> seatalk ng converter which came with a GPS receiver I bought several years 
>> ago so I fed the seatalk data from the ST60 wind and tridata heads to the 
>> converter and bought a seatalk ng to NMEA2000 cable which plugs into a T in 
>> the 2000 backbone. Everything works fine and all data appears on the new 
>> displays. Next year when I haul the boat, I'll replace the depth, speed, 
>> temp transducer and the mast head wind system.
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Mar 25, 2014, at 6:07 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Joe, sorry for the confusion but I think if you re-read the thread you 
>>> might see that I was talking about the backwards compatibility of the NMEA 
>>> 0183 standard.  It sounded to me like the Zeus takes 0183 v3.0.  So my 
>>> point was that it should understand 0183 v1.5.  However as one of the other 
>>> listers stated there were changes to the sentance structure in v2.1.  So it 
>>> sounds like maybe not perfect backwards compatibility. 
>>> 
>>> On the other hand, I have to believe that the 0183 to 2000 converter was 
>>> engineered properly to noodle throught the nuances of different 0183 
>>> versions and convert them to 2000.  Otherwise it would specify certain 0183 
>>> versions that it works with.  Assuming the actisence converts all versions, 
>>> then it would seem to me that the Zeus could also be equally well 
>>> equipped...who knows whether or not the engineers at B&G had the sence to 
>>> do that.
>>> 
>>> If the actisence only works with specific versions and v1.5 is not one of 
>>> them then this whole discussion is pointless since that was the original 
>>> topic.
>>> 
>>> Josh
>>> 
 On Mar 24, 2014 9:15 AM, "Della Barba, Joe"  
 wrote:
 0183 and 2000 are totally different. They cannot be interconnected without 
 a device to translate back and forth. For one thing, 0183 is a one talker 
 – many listener system and 2000 is a many talker – many listener system.
 
  
 
 Joe Della Barba
 
 Coquina C&C 35 MK I
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
 Muckley
 Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:35 PM
 To: C&C List
 Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 conversion
 
  
 
 I'm not a NMEA 0183 expert but I though the different versions were 
 backwards compatible.  So if the Zeus will take NMEA 0183 (3.0) then it 
 should understand ver. 1.5.  I was under the impression that the 3.0 just 
 had MORE reconized "sentences".
 
 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 Solomons, MD
 
 On Mar 23, 2014 7:11 AM, "Tony Wroblewski"  wrote:
 
 Has anyone on the list used the Actisense NGW-1 for a bridge to connect 
 older 0183 instruments to a 2000 network.  The plan is to use a B&G 390 
 system (NMEA 0183 v. 1.5) to feed wind, speed, depth and heading data to 
 B&G Zeus Touch on the 2000 bus. 
 
 The other alternative is to use a Tinley 0183 New2Old converter,.  Same 
 question.  Has anyone done this. I'm told the Tinley will convert a ver. 
 1.5 to ver. 3.0 and the Zeus can also take a ver. 3.0 input.
 
 Tony
 Triumph
 C&C 41 '86 c/b
 
 
 ___
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 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

[Gary Nylander]

If you're not looking for the ultimate racing bottom, why not do a careful 
scrape to get the loose stuff off and put something on top? Talk to the 
paint manufacturers or West Marine - they have tables of what goes over 
what. You can put something like Hydrocoat over just about anything and, 
because it is ablative, it will mostly come off in a year or so and you can 
continue (as long as you aren't getting big peels) as long as you want. 
Baltoplate is very hard and smooth and doesn't have much copper or other 
anti-fouling properties, that's why the racers use it, but they dive on the 
boat every couple of weeks or more often.


A hand sanding just to put some 'bite' on what's there (after getting the 
loose stuff off) should get you through the year. Use a sponge sanding 
block, then roll on whatever you decide to use.


But, sooner or later you should have all the junk taken off and get down to 
gelcoat and then put a barrier coat on - that will keep the boat from 
absorbing moisture and possibly developing blisters. When I peeled mine, I 
found that it already had a barrier coat (PO?) and that was good. I have 
been using Hydrocoat ever since.


Gary
- Original Message - 
From: "Brian Morrison" 

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 12:13 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question


That is the case somewhat Gary. In most areas it peeled down to the 
gelcoat. If I could get away with one season of painting on top of what's 
there without too many issues I would take that.


Brian

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

On Mar 25, 2014, at 9:58 AM, "Gary Nylander"  
wrote:


I think the original note said there had been Baltoplate and then 
something else on top - and the something else was what was peeling. My 
impression is not many other paints (or anything else) stick to 
Baltoplate, so it has to be roughed up and/or stripped off, which means 
what is on top is the problem.


Unfortunately, this top coat will have to be taken off or you will end up 
just patching it every year.


Gary


- Original Message - From: "Jake Brodersen" 


To: 
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 5:59 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question



Brian,

My boat originally  had Baltoplate.  I successfully put VC Offshore over 
the
top of it for a number of years without any adhesion problems.  The 
paints

are quite similar.  Last year I had the boat soda blasted.  I then did a
barrier coat and VC Offshore.  The hull came out of the soda blasting 
very
smooth.  No way could I have ever sanded it clean and left a smooth 
surface.
The only thing I needed to do was fill a couple of blisters and start 
the
barrier coat.  It's definitely the right way to go, if you plan on 
keeping

the boat for the long haul.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
"Midnight Mistress"
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton Va





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian
Morrison
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to
paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous 
owner

had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of
paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down 
to
the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time 
and
labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or 
labor

using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a
viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Brian C. Morrison
1979 C&C 34
Rekofa
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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

[Terry pearson]

Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove on my 
mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what it is. 
its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove. Its is 
getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge, creating 
all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on the outer 
edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at the point now 
that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see what fits. 
Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your mast groove look 
like?

Thanks,
Terry
On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight  wrote:

> Rick
> 
> I can hoist the main sail on my 35 MKII to within at least 2 feet of the top
> without a winch or strong track.  My main sail is equipped with polymer
> slides that measure 1.47" long by 0.87" wide by 0.31" thick, measured as
> carefully as I could with the sail rolled and pack in its bag and these work
> very well in the as manufactured aluminium track.  I also have to deal with
> the added friction involved with leading the halyard through turning blocks
> to the cockpit.  I can raise it all the way to the top without winch if I or
> someone else pulls the halyard where it exits the mast.  I cleaned and
> sanded the track in the mast at the same time as I sanded my mast a few
> years back and I don't use any lubricant on the slides.  The sail does not
> fall like the blade of a guillotine again because of friction on the halyard
> from the turning blocks but I consider that a good thing as it aids me in a
> controlled packing the sail without having to deal with all the sail laying
> on the deck to start with... I don't have lazy jacks or my Dutchman system
> installed and I usually end up packing my mainsail alone the way I like it
> done, hopefully training it to fall the same way every time.  Maybe I am
> just a very strong man for my age.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> Brass
> Sent: March 25, 2014 11:33 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
> 
> Before you even think about removing the "slide" track, go on line and make
> sure it is not a Tides Marine Strong Track. 
> 
> If it is a strong track, it is one of the better upgrades that could have
> been done on your boat. Performance is far better than you will get from
> sail slugs in an internal track. I can hoist the main on my 38 to within
> about 2 feet of the top without putting the halyard on a winch. Sand if you
> let the halyard go, the sail comes down like the blade of a guillotine.
> Periodic maintenance is to flush the rack with dish soap and fresh water.
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:12, Terry pearson  wrote:
>> 
>> On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or similar)slide in
> the mast track. I want to remove the "slide" track and go back to the
> original sail slides for this mast, but I cant seem to find anything telling
> me the proper size. the track appears to be able to accommodate either round
> slugs or flat slides.is this possible? I tried measuring the slide slot and
> it appears to be 15/16th wide flat slide .can anyone confirm this? 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Confused:=)
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

[Bill Bina]

That sounds like the original C&C (Cinkel) mast insert. They get brittle 
and start cracking. Sooner or later, you may end up with a sail that 
will not come down, because a cracked sliver has wedged against a slide. 
The groove in that mast was not designed or shaped to be used without 
that insert, and the insert is absolutely no longer available. If you 
find one used, it will be as brittle as what you have. The hot setup is 
to replace it with a tides strong track, which, as others have 
mentioned,  is a great upgrade. Many C&C's now sport a Tides Marine 
Strong Track. If you are trying to spend more money, Harken makes a more 
complicated system for 3 times the cost of the Tides that does not work 
appreciably better.


Bill Bina


On 3/25/2014 1:06 PM, Terry pearson wrote:

Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove on my 
mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what it is. 
its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove. Its is 
getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge, creating 
all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on the outer 
edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at the point now 
that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see what fits. 
Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your mast groove look 
like?

Thanks,
Terry
On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight  wrote:




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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

[sam . c . salter]

Not sure if this helps, but when I look in my Bainbridge International 
catalogue, 15/16" is a standard size for flat mast slides ‎(as is 3/4" & 7/8")

sam :-)
  Original Message  
From: Terry pearson
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 11:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove on my 
mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what it is. 
its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove. Its is 
getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge, creating 
all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on the outer 
edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at the point now 
that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see what fits. 
Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your mast groove look 
like?

Thanks,
Terry
On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight  wrote:

> Rick
> 
> I can hoist the main sail on my 35 MKII to within at least 2 feet of the top
> without a winch or strong track. My main sail is equipped with polymer
> slides that measure 1.47" long by 0.87" wide by 0.31" thick, measured as
> carefully as I could with the sail rolled and pack in its bag and these work
> very well in the as manufactured aluminium track. I also have to deal with
> the added friction involved with leading the halyard through turning blocks
> to the cockpit. I can raise it all the way to the top without winch if I or
> someone else pulls the halyard where it exits the mast. I cleaned and
> sanded the track in the mast at the same time as I sanded my mast a few
> years back and I don't use any lubricant on the slides. The sail does not
> fall like the blade of a guillotine again because of friction on the halyard
> from the turning blocks but I consider that a good thing as it aids me in a
> controlled packing the sail without having to deal with all the sail laying
> on the deck to start with... I don't have lazy jacks or my Dutchman system
> installed and I usually end up packing my mainsail alone the way I like it
> done, hopefully training it to fall the same way every time. Maybe I am
> just a very strong man for my age.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> Brass
> Sent: March 25, 2014 11:33 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
> 
> Before you even think about removing the "slide" track, go on line and make
> sure it is not a Tides Marine Strong Track. 
> 
> If it is a strong track, it is one of the better upgrades that could have
> been done on your boat. Performance is far better than you will get from
> sail slugs in an internal track. I can hoist the main on my 38 to within
> about 2 feet of the top without putting the halyard on a winch. Sand if you
> let the halyard go, the sail comes down like the blade of a guillotine.
> Periodic maintenance is to flush the rack with dish soap and fresh water.
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:12, Terry pearson  wrote:
>> 
>> On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or similar)slide in
> the mast track. I want to remove the "slide" track and go back to the
> original sail slides for this mast, but I cant seem to find anything telling
> me the proper size. the track appears to be able to accommodate either round
> slugs or flat slides.is this possible? I tried measuring the slide slot and
> it appears to be 15/16th wide flat slide .can anyone confirm this? 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Confused:=)
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

[Terry pearson]

Well Bill, that make perfect sense, as I couldn't figure out what type of slide 
would fit that groove. And no one at the sail club had a clue either. Ive been 
looking at those Tide Strong tracks but didn't want to cough up the money, 
looks like a have a good reason to invest in one now! Won't the wife be happy!
On Mar 25, 2014, at 12:18 PM, Bill Bina  wrote:

> That sounds like the original C&C (Cinkel) mast insert. They get brittle and 
> start cracking. Sooner or later, you may end up with a sail that will not 
> come down, because a cracked sliver has wedged against a slide. The groove in 
> that mast was not designed or shaped to be used without that insert, and the 
> insert is absolutely no longer available. If you find one used, it will be as 
> brittle as what you have. The hot setup is to replace it with a tides strong 
> track, which, as others have mentioned,  is a great upgrade. Many C&C's now 
> sport a Tides Marine Strong Track. If you are trying to spend more money, 
> Harken makes a more complicated system for 3 times the cost of the Tides that 
> does not work appreciably better.
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> 
> On 3/25/2014 1:06 PM, Terry pearson wrote:
>> Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove on 
>> my mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what 
>> it is. its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove. 
>> Its is getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge, 
>> creating all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on 
>> the outer edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at the 
>> point now that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see 
>> what fits. Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your 
>> mast groove look like?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Terry
>> On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight  wrote:
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

[Andrew Burton]

Add me as another fan of the Strong track. I have one on my boat and it
makes it easy to get the main up.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine


On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 1:32 PM, Terry pearson  wrote:

> Well Bill, that make perfect sense, as I couldn't figure out what type of
> slide would fit that groove. And no one at the sail club had a clue either.
> Ive been looking at those Tide Strong tracks but didn't want to cough up
> the money, looks like a have a good reason to invest in one now! Won't the
> wife be happy!
> On Mar 25, 2014, at 12:18 PM, Bill Bina  wrote:
>
> > That sounds like the original C&C (Cinkel) mast insert. They get brittle
> and start cracking. Sooner or later, you may end up with a sail that will
> not come down, because a cracked sliver has wedged against a slide. The
> groove in that mast was not designed or shaped to be used without that
> insert, and the insert is absolutely no longer available. If you find one
> used, it will be as brittle as what you have. The hot setup is to replace
> it with a tides strong track, which, as others have mentioned,  is a great
> upgrade. Many C&C's now sport a Tides Marine Strong Track. If you are
> trying to spend more money, Harken makes a more complicated system for 3
> times the cost of the Tides that does not work appreciably better.
> >
> > Bill Bina
> >
> >
> > On 3/25/2014 1:06 PM, Terry pearson wrote:
> >> Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal
> grove on my mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to
> identify what it is. its a white plastic liner that fits inside the
> internal mast groove. Its is getting brittle and has broken off several
> times on the lower edge, creating all kinds of problems. my groove is round
> yet has a flat groove on the outer edge of the internal round groove, if
> that makes sense. I'm at the point now that I'm considering ordering
> several flat and round slugs to see what fits. Dwight, I'm taking that your
> using flat slides, what does your mast groove look like?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Terry
> >> On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight  wrote:
> >>
> >
> >
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>



-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

[Bill Bina]

My diminutive wife LOVES our Strong Track. She feels like a real sailor 
now that she can quickly raise the main most of the way before switching 
to the winch for the last little bit. The company was VERY helpful on 
the phone when I had a few questions about measuring properly. They have 
a little kit of plastic gauges that they will send you. I think they now 
charge a deposit for the kit, but apply it towards your purchase.


Bill Bina

On 3/25/2014 1:32 PM, Terry pearson wrote:

Well Bill, that make perfect sense, as I couldn't figure out what type of slide 
would fit that groove. And no one at the sail club had a clue either. Ive been 
looking at those Tide Strong tracks but didn't want to cough up the money, 
looks like a have a good reason to invest in one now! Won't the wife be happy!
On Mar 25, 2014, at 12:18 PM, Bill Bina  wrote:


That sounds like the original C&C (Cinkel) mast insert. They get brittle and start 
cracking. Sooner or later, you may end up with a sail that will not come down, because 
a cracked sliver has wedged against a slide. The groove in that mast was not designed 
or shaped to be used without that insert, and the insert is absolutely no longer 
available. If you find one used, it will be as brittle as what you have. The hot setup 
is to replace it with a tides strong track, which, as others have mentioned,  is a 
great upgrade. Many C&C's now sport a Tides Marine Strong Track. If you are trying 
to spend more money, Harken makes a more complicated system for 3 times the cost of the 
Tides that does not work appreciably better.

Bill Bina





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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

[Prime Interest]

A local sail maker might be able to lone you a set of their sample slugs -
they usually have an assortment kit for repairs.




Ed

Prime Interest
Toronto, Canada

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry
pearson
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 1:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove on
my mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what
it is. its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove.
Its is getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge,
creating all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on
the outer edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at the
point now that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see
what fits. Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your
mast groove look like?

Thanks,
Terry
On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight  wrote:

> Rick
> 
> I can hoist the main sail on my 35 MKII to within at least 2 feet of 
> the top without a winch or strong track.  My main sail is equipped 
> with polymer slides that measure 1.47" long by 0.87" wide by 0.31" 
> thick, measured as carefully as I could with the sail rolled and pack 
> in its bag and these work very well in the as manufactured aluminium 
> track.  I also have to deal with the added friction involved with 
> leading the halyard through turning blocks to the cockpit.  I can 
> raise it all the way to the top without winch if I or someone else 
> pulls the halyard where it exits the mast.  I cleaned and sanded the 
> track in the mast at the same time as I sanded my mast a few years 
> back and I don't use any lubricant on the slides.  The sail does not 
> fall like the blade of a guillotine again because of friction on the 
> halyard from the turning blocks but I consider that a good thing as it 
> aids me in a controlled packing the sail without having to deal with 
> all the sail laying on the deck to start with... I don't have lazy 
> jacks or my Dutchman system installed and I usually end up packing my 
> mainsail alone the way I like it done, hopefully training it to fall the
same way every time.  Maybe I am just a very strong man for my age.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Rick Brass
> Sent: March 25, 2014 11:33 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
> 
> Before you even think about removing the "slide" track, go on line and 
> make sure it is not a Tides Marine Strong Track.
> 
> If it is a strong track, it is one of the better upgrades that could 
> have been done on your boat. Performance is far better than you will 
> get from sail slugs in an internal track. I can hoist the main on my 
> 38 to within about 2 feet of the top without putting the halyard on a 
> winch. Sand if you let the halyard go, the sail comes down like the blade
of a guillotine.
> Periodic maintenance is to flush the rack with dish soap and fresh water.
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:12, Terry pearson  wrote:
>> 
>> On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or 
>> similar)slide in
> the mast track. I want to remove the "slide" track and go back to the 
> original sail slides for this mast, but I cant seem to find anything 
> telling me the proper size. the track appears to be able to 
> accommodate either round slugs or flat slides.is this possible? I 
> tried measuring the slide slot and it appears to be 15/16th wide flat
slide .can anyone confirm this?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Confused:=)
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

[Paul Fountain]

Terry,

I have a C&C 33-II 1985, and there is no plastic track on my mast where the
main hoists - it takes a flat slide, 7/8" wide, 1 1/2" long and 1/8" thick
the track sides are a bit wider than the thickness of the loop on the
slides. 

A strong track is on the wish list - but unfortunately not very close to the
top, as the system works well except for the slides catching on the gate
where they are inserted into the mast - I need to redesign the gate.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry
pearson
Sent: March 25, 2014 1:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove on
my mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what
it is. its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove.
Its is getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge,
creating all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on
the outer edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at the
point now that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see
what fits. Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your
mast groove look like?

Thanks,
Terry
On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight  wrote:

> Rick
> 
> I can hoist the main sail on my 35 MKII to within at least 2 feet of 
> the top without a winch or strong track.  My main sail is equipped 
> with polymer slides that measure 1.47" long by 0.87" wide by 0.31" 
> thick, measured as carefully as I could with the sail rolled and pack 
> in its bag and these work very well in the as manufactured aluminium 
> track.  I also have to deal with the added friction involved with 
> leading the halyard through turning blocks to the cockpit.  I can 
> raise it all the way to the top without winch if I or someone else 
> pulls the halyard where it exits the mast.  I cleaned and sanded the 
> track in the mast at the same time as I sanded my mast a few years 
> back and I don't use any lubricant on the slides.  The sail does not 
> fall like the blade of a guillotine again because of friction on the 
> halyard from the turning blocks but I consider that a good thing as it 
> aids me in a controlled packing the sail without having to deal with 
> all the sail laying on the deck to start with... I don't have lazy 
> jacks or my Dutchman system installed and I usually end up packing my 
> mainsail alone the way I like it done, hopefully training it to fall the
same way every time.  Maybe I am just a very strong man for my age.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Rick Brass
> Sent: March 25, 2014 11:33 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
> 
> Before you even think about removing the "slide" track, go on line and 
> make sure it is not a Tides Marine Strong Track.
> 
> If it is a strong track, it is one of the better upgrades that could 
> have been done on your boat. Performance is far better than you will 
> get from sail slugs in an internal track. I can hoist the main on my 
> 38 to within about 2 feet of the top without putting the halyard on a 
> winch. Sand if you let the halyard go, the sail comes down like the blade
of a guillotine.
> Periodic maintenance is to flush the rack with dish soap and fresh water.
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:12, Terry pearson  wrote:
>> 
>> On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or 
>> similar)slide in
> the mast track. I want to remove the "slide" track and go back to the 
> original sail slides for this mast, but I cant seem to find anything 
> telling me the proper size. the track appears to be able to 
> accommodate either round slugs or flat slides.is this possible? I 
> tried measuring the slide slot and it appears to be 15/16th wide flat
slide .can anyone confirm this?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Confused:=)
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

[Ken Heaton]

Paul (and others),

I know your system works well now but try wiping out the mast groove and
then spraying both the groove and the slugs with McLube SailKote.  The
stuff dries to invisibility but it is very slippery.  The mainsail slug
system will then work as well as a strong track for at least 4 to 6 months.

We have a 47' hoist on our mainsail and I can get it to within a foot of
the top by pulling it up by hand at the mast (I'm just a little guy).  Then
I finish back in the cockpit with a winch.  Main drops like a guillotine
into the stac-pac, only the drag of the halyard to slow it down.

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia


On 25 March 2014 15:17, Paul Fountain  wrote:

> Terry,
>
> I have a C&C 33-II 1985, and there is no plastic track on my mast where the
> main hoists - it takes a flat slide, 7/8" wide, 1 1/2" long and 1/8" thick
> the track sides are a bit wider than the thickness of the loop on the
> slides.
>
> A strong track is on the wish list - but unfortunately not very close to
> the
> top, as the system works well except for the slides catching on the gate
> where they are inserted into the mast - I need to redesign the gate.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry
> pearson
> Sent: March 25, 2014 1:06 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
>
> Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove
> on
> my mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what
> it is. its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove.
> Its is getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge,
> creating all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on
> the outer edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at
> the
> point now that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see
> what fits. Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your
> mast groove look like?
>
> Thanks,
> Terry
> On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight  wrote:
>
> > Rick
> >
> > I can hoist the main sail on my 35 MKII to within at least 2 feet of
> > the top without a winch or strong track.  My main sail is equipped
> > with polymer slides that measure 1.47" long by 0.87" wide by 0.31"
> > thick, measured as carefully as I could with the sail rolled and pack
> > in its bag and these work very well in the as manufactured aluminium
> > track.  I also have to deal with the added friction involved with
> > leading the halyard through turning blocks to the cockpit.  I can
> > raise it all the way to the top without winch if I or someone else
> > pulls the halyard where it exits the mast.  I cleaned and sanded the
> > track in the mast at the same time as I sanded my mast a few years
> > back and I don't use any lubricant on the slides.  The sail does not
> > fall like the blade of a guillotine again because of friction on the
> > halyard from the turning blocks but I consider that a good thing as it
> > aids me in a controlled packing the sail without having to deal with
> > all the sail laying on the deck to start with... I don't have lazy
> > jacks or my Dutchman system installed and I usually end up packing my
> > mainsail alone the way I like it done, hopefully training it to fall the
> same way every time.  Maybe I am just a very strong man for my age.
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> > Rick Brass
> > Sent: March 25, 2014 11:33 AM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
> >
> > Before you even think about removing the "slide" track, go on line and
> > make sure it is not a Tides Marine Strong Track.
> >
> > If it is a strong track, it is one of the better upgrades that could
> > have been done on your boat. Performance is far better than you will
> > get from sail slugs in an internal track. I can hoist the main on my
> > 38 to within about 2 feet of the top without putting the halyard on a
> > winch. Sand if you let the halyard go, the sail comes down like the blade
> of a guillotine.
> > Periodic maintenance is to flush the rack with dish soap and fresh water.
> >
> > Rick Brass
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> >> On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:12, Terry pearson  wrote:
> >>
> >> On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or
> >> similar)slide in
> > the mast track. I want to remove the "slide" track and go back to the
> > original sail slides for this mast, but I cant seem to find anything
> > telling me the proper size. the track appears to be able to
> > accommodate either round slugs or flat slides.is this possible? I
> > tried measuring the slide slot and it appears to be 15/16th wide flat
> slide .can anyone confirm this?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Confused:=)
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
> >> This 

Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

[Paul Fountain]

Thanks Ken.

 

We found the biggest sources of friction were the sheeves and blocks in the
system - and have replaced all with Garhauer , including those at the mast
head .. What a difference - we do clean and LIGHTLY lube the track in the
spring .. 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Heaton
Sent: March 25, 2014 2:33 PM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

 

Paul (and others),

 

I know your system works well now but try wiping out the mast groove and
then spraying both the groove and the slugs with McLube SailKote.  The stuff
dries to invisibility but it is very slippery.  The mainsail slug system
will then work as well as a strong track for at least 4 to 6 months.

 

We have a 47' hoist on our mainsail and I can get it to within a foot of the
top by pulling it up by hand at the mast (I'm just a little guy).  Then I
finish back in the cockpit with a winch.  Main drops like a guillotine into
the stac-pac, only the drag of the halyard to slow it down.

 

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

 

On 25 March 2014 15:17, Paul Fountain mailto:paul.fount...@sympatico.ca> > wrote:

Terry,

I have a C&C 33-II 1985, and there is no plastic track on my mast where the
main hoists - it takes a flat slide, 7/8" wide, 1 1/2" long and 1/8" thick
the track sides are a bit wider than the thickness of the loop on the
slides.

A strong track is on the wish list - but unfortunately not very close to the
top, as the system works well except for the slides catching on the gate
where they are inserted into the mast - I need to redesign the gate.


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
 ] On Behalf Of Terry
pearson
Sent: March 25, 2014 1:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove on
my mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what
it is. its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove.
Its is getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge,
creating all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on
the outer edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at the
point now that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see
what fits. Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your
mast groove look like?

Thanks,
Terry
On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight mailto:dwight...@gmail.com> > wrote:

> Rick
>
> I can hoist the main sail on my 35 MKII to within at least 2 feet of
> the top without a winch or strong track.  My main sail is equipped
> with polymer slides that measure 1.47" long by 0.87" wide by 0.31"
> thick, measured as carefully as I could with the sail rolled and pack
> in its bag and these work very well in the as manufactured aluminium
> track.  I also have to deal with the added friction involved with
> leading the halyard through turning blocks to the cockpit.  I can
> raise it all the way to the top without winch if I or someone else
> pulls the halyard where it exits the mast.  I cleaned and sanded the
> track in the mast at the same time as I sanded my mast a few years
> back and I don't use any lubricant on the slides.  The sail does not
> fall like the blade of a guillotine again because of friction on the
> halyard from the turning blocks but I consider that a good thing as it
> aids me in a controlled packing the sail without having to deal with
> all the sail laying on the deck to start with... I don't have lazy
> jacks or my Dutchman system installed and I usually end up packing my
> mainsail alone the way I like it done, hopefully training it to fall the
same way every time.  Maybe I am just a very strong man for my age.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
 ] On Behalf Of
> Rick Brass
> Sent: March 25, 2014 11:33 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
>
> Before you even think about removing the "slide" track, go on line and
> make sure it is not a Tides Marine Strong Track.
>
> If it is a strong track, it is one of the better upgrades that could
> have been done on your boat. Performance is far better than you will
> get from sail slugs in an internal track. I can hoist the main on my
> 38 to within about 2 feet of the top without putting the halyard on a
> winch. Sand if you let the halyard go, the sail comes down like the blade
of a guillotine.
> Periodic maintenance is to flush the rack with dish soap and fresh water.
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:12, Terry pearson mailto:tvpear...@mchsi.com> > wrote:
>>
>> On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or
>> similar

Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

[dwight]

I agree with most of what Gary says but I am not aware of many C&C boats
that ever developed blisters...my knowledge is of boats in more northern
climates maybe, like here around Nova Scotia.  And as far as the racing
goes, I appreciate for guys like Dennis Connor and his book "No Excuse to
Lose" that a clean bottom is faster but for most of us, we lose by other
means.  So if getting the bottom perfect is what you need to do to gain
those precious seconds then strip her down fair everything to perfection,
long sand the bottom and dry sail the boat...that seems a lot of work for
club racing but sometimes ego rules...otherwise just clean and repair the
bad spots and concentrate on improving some of the other skills that will
make you chances of winning better...unless you want to do a lot of work or
if you are particularly concerned about how the bottom looks on the hard
before launch

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander
Sent: March 25, 2014 1:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

If you're not looking for the ultimate racing bottom, why not do a careful 
scrape to get the loose stuff off and put something on top? Talk to the 
paint manufacturers or West Marine - they have tables of what goes over 
what. You can put something like Hydrocoat over just about anything and, 
because it is ablative, it will mostly come off in a year or so and you can 
continue (as long as you aren't getting big peels) as long as you want. 
Baltoplate is very hard and smooth and doesn't have much copper or other 
anti-fouling properties, that's why the racers use it, but they dive on the 
boat every couple of weeks or more often.

A hand sanding just to put some 'bite' on what's there (after getting the 
loose stuff off) should get you through the year. Use a sponge sanding 
block, then roll on whatever you decide to use.

But, sooner or later you should have all the junk taken off and get down to 
gelcoat and then put a barrier coat on - that will keep the boat from 
absorbing moisture and possibly developing blisters. When I peeled mine, I 
found that it already had a barrier coat (PO?) and that was good. I have 
been using Hydrocoat ever since.

Gary



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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

[dwight]

Hi Terry
I expect that my mast grove is similar to yours. Yes I am using flat slides
and I measured the dimensions as close as I could so you should be able to
find a close match.  Those slides are relatively inexpensive so I keep
spares, webbing, waxed twine and a needle on board so I can repair when
needed.  Personally from what you describe I would get rid of whatever is in
the grove now, clean and sand the grove smooth while also cleaning and wet
sanding your mast to 320 grit, boom and spreaders included, it will self
anodize in seconds and the new surface will be clean and hard aluminium
oxide in seconds after sanding, install new flats slides on your main sail
with webbing...try them in the grove first and you can install them with the
webbing quite easily yourself.

I started to put together a group of 35 MKII owners earlier this year and as
of now I have 6 but I have done nothing since then...give me your
particulars and I will add you to that list...maybe someday soon we will
have enough 35 MKII owners on there to make specific MKII communications
more applicable

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry
pearson
Sent: March 25, 2014 2:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove on
my mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what
it is. its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove.
Its is getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge,
creating all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on
the outer edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at the
point now that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see
what fits. Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your
mast groove look like?

Thanks,
Terry
On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight  wrote:

> Rick
> 
> I can hoist the main sail on my 35 MKII to within at least 2 feet of the
top
> without a winch or strong track.  My main sail is equipped with polymer
> slides that measure 1.47" long by 0.87" wide by 0.31" thick, measured as
> carefully as I could with the sail rolled and pack in its bag and these
work
> very well in the as manufactured aluminium track.  I also have to deal
with
> the added friction involved with leading the halyard through turning
blocks
> to the cockpit.  I can raise it all the way to the top without winch if I
or
> someone else pulls the halyard where it exits the mast.  I cleaned and
> sanded the track in the mast at the same time as I sanded my mast a few
> years back and I don't use any lubricant on the slides.  The sail does not
> fall like the blade of a guillotine again because of friction on the
halyard
> from the turning blocks but I consider that a good thing as it aids me in
a
> controlled packing the sail without having to deal with all the sail
laying
> on the deck to start with... I don't have lazy jacks or my Dutchman system
> installed and I usually end up packing my mainsail alone the way I like it
> done, hopefully training it to fall the same way every time.  Maybe I am
> just a very strong man for my age.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> Brass
> Sent: March 25, 2014 11:33 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
> 
> Before you even think about removing the "slide" track, go on line and
make
> sure it is not a Tides Marine Strong Track. 
> 
> If it is a strong track, it is one of the better upgrades that could have
> been done on your boat. Performance is far better than you will get from
> sail slugs in an internal track. I can hoist the main on my 38 to within
> about 2 feet of the top without putting the halyard on a winch. Sand if
you
> let the halyard go, the sail comes down like the blade of a guillotine.
> Periodic maintenance is to flush the rack with dish soap and fresh water.
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:12, Terry pearson  wrote:
>> 
>> On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or similar)slide in
> the mast track. I want to remove the "slide" track and go back to the
> original sail slides for this mast, but I cant seem to find anything
telling
> me the proper size. the track appears to be able to accommodate either
round
> slugs or flat slides.is this possible? I tried measuring the slide slot
and
> it appears to be 15/16th wide flat slide .can anyone confirm this? 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Confused:=)
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-Li

Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

[Robert Abbott]

Brian:

One always has the option doing very littlethrow another coat of 
paint over the old stuff.


However, if you decide you want to do more than 'very little', you got 
it right."To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive 
on my part. "So true.


So, do you want to strip a 34' hull of antifouling paint (last time I 
did it was 1991, won't ever do it myself again) and apply paint..so 
that is the very time and labor intensive on your part.  And if you 
haven't done it before, it will make for even more angst.


Now you can pay to have it done.pay now and have it done right, its 
a long term investment.   Won't tell you what I did in 2006 when we 
brought our C&C 32.don't want to be bias.


Life is all about making choices..hope that helps.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2014/03/24 10:19 PM, Brian Morrison wrote:

The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint 
the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had 
baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The 
paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and 
starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on 
my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other 
method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any 
advice would be greatly appreciated.

Brian C. Morrison
1979 C&C 34
Rekofa
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Re: Stus-List : winch replacement

[Neil Gallagher]

The Lewmar Astor 44 ST winches are going on sale for $650 tomorrow at 
Defender, should you be considering them.


They had 16 in stock,  14 now :-)

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35 -1
Glen Cove, NY


On 3/22/2014 5:46 PM, Rick Brass wrote:

   IIRC the Barient 28 is about equivalent to a Lewmar 48 or 54 in terms of 
power ratio.

Have you thought about converting your Barients to self tailers. Winchmate 
makes a conversion kit for $500 - 550 per winch. Practical Sailor gave a 
favorable review and I've talked to a couple of people who have them and like 
them.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad


On Mar 22, 2014, at 17:14, Tim Goodyear  wrote:

I saw some Lewmar Astor 44 ST winches for sale at $900 at Defender yesterday 
(they may be gone).  Does anyone have an opinion on tees for primary winches on 
a 35-3 (currently with non-ST Barient 28s)?

Thanks,

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT
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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

[JOHN D IRVIN]

Jig-a-Loo is similar to McLube and less than half the price.




From: Paul Fountain 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 2:17:29 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII


Terry,

I have a C&C 33-II 1985, and there is no plastic track on my mast where the
main hoists - it takes a flat slide, 7/8" wide, 1 1/2" long and 1/8" thick
the track sides are a bit wider than the thickness of the loop on the
slides. 

A strong track is on the wish list - but unfortunately not very close to the
top, as the system works well except for the slides catching on the gate
where they are inserted into the mast - I need to redesign the gate.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry
pearson
Sent: March 25, 2014 1:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove on
my mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what
it is. its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove.
Its is getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge,
creating all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on
the outer edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at the
point now that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see
what fits. Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your
mast groove look like?

Thanks,
Terry
On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight  wrote:

> Rick
> 
> I can hoist the main sail on my 35 MKII to within at least 2 feet of 
> the top without a winch or strong track.  My main sail is equipped 
> with polymer slides that measure 1.47" long by 0.87" wide by 0.31" 
> thick, measured as carefully as I could with the sail rolled and pack 
> in its bag and these work very well in the as manufactured aluminium 
> track.  I also have to deal with the added friction involved with 
> leading the halyard through turning blocks to the cockpit.  I can 
> raise it all the way to the top without winch if I or someone else 
> pulls the halyard where it exits the mast.  I cleaned and sanded the 
> track in the mast at the same time as I sanded my mast a few years 
> back and I don't use any lubricant on the slides.  The sail does not 
> fall like the blade of a guillotine again because of friction on the 
> halyard from the turning blocks but I consider that a good thing as it 
> aids me in a controlled packing the sail without having to deal with 
> all the sail laying on the deck to start with... I don't have lazy 
> jacks or my Dutchman system installed and I usually end up packing my 
> mainsail alone the way I like it done, hopefully training it to fall the
same way every time.  Maybe I am just a very strong man for my age.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Rick Brass
> Sent: March 25, 2014 11:33 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
> 
> Before you even think about removing the "slide" track, go on line and 
> make sure it is not a Tides Marine Strong Track.
> 
> If it is a strong track, it is one of the better upgrades that could 
> have been done on your boat. Performance is far better than you will 
> get from sail slugs in an internal track. I can hoist the main on my 
> 38 to within about 2 feet of the top without putting the halyard on a 
> winch. Sand if you let the halyard go, the sail comes down like the blade
of a guillotine.
> Periodic maintenance is to flush the rack with dish soap and fresh water.
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:12, Terry pearson  wrote:
>> 
>> On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or 
>> similar)slide in
> the mast track. I want to remove the "slide" track and go back to the 
> original sail slides for this mast, but I cant seem to find anything 
> telling me the proper size. the track appears to be able to 
> accommodate either round slugs or flat slides.is this possible? I 
> tried measuring the slide slot and it appears to be 15/16th wide flat
slide .can anyone confirm this?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Confused:=)
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/CnC-List@cnc-list.com


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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

[Joel Aronson]

John,

Jig A Loo is silicone based.  McLube is basically teflon in a spray.  I
used McLube on my sail slides for the first time last year.  Made a huge
difference!  Next time someone goes up the mast they are taking the can
with them!

Joel


On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 4:35 PM, JOHN D IRVIN  wrote:

> Jig-a-Loo is similar to McLube and less than half the price.
>
>   *From:* Paul Fountain 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 25, 2014 2:17:29 PM
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
>
> Terry,
>
> I have a C&C 33-II 1985, and there is no plastic track on my mast where the
> main hoists - it takes a flat slide, 7/8" wide, 1 1/2" long and 1/8" thick
> the track sides are a bit wider than the thickness of the loop on the
> slides.
>
> A strong track is on the wish list - but unfortunately not very close to
> the
> top, as the system works well except for the slides catching on the gate
> where they are inserted into the mast - I need to redesign the gate.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry
> pearson
> Sent: March 25, 2014 1:06 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
>
> Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove
> on
> my mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what
> it is. its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove.
> Its is getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge,
> creating all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on
> the outer edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at
> the
> point now that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see
> what fits. Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your
> mast groove look like?
>
> Thanks,
> Terry
> On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight  wrote:
>
> > Rick
> >
> > I can hoist the main sail on my 35 MKII to within at least 2 feet of
> > the top without a winch or strong track.  My main sail is equipped
> > with polymer slides that measure 1.47" long by 0.87" wide by 0.31"
> > thick, measured as carefully as I could with the sail rolled and pack
> > in its bag and these work very well in the as manufactured aluminium
> > track.  I also have to deal with the added friction involved with
> > leading the halyard through turning blocks to the cockpit.  I can
> > raise it all the way to the top without winch if I or someone else
> > pulls the halyard where it exits the mast.  I cleaned and sanded the
> > track in the mast at the same time as I sanded my mast a few years
> > back and I don't use any lubricant on the slides.  The sail does not
> > fall like the blade of a guillotine again because of friction on the
> > halyard from the turning blocks but I consider that a good thing as it
> > aids me in a controlled packing the sail without having to deal with
> > all the sail laying on the deck to start with... I don't have lazy
> > jacks or my Dutchman system installed and I usually end up packing my
> > mainsail alone the way I like it done, hopefully training it to fall the
> same way every time.  Maybe I am just a very strong man for my age.
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> > Rick Brass
> > Sent: March 25, 2014 11:33 AM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
> >
> > Before you even think about removing the "slide" track, go on line and
> > make sure it is not a Tides Marine Strong Track.
> >
> > If it is a strong track, it is one of the better upgrades that could
> > have been done on your boat. Performance is far better than you will
> > get from sail slugs in an internal track. I can hoist the main on my
> > 38 to within about 2 feet of the top without putting the halyard on a
> > winch. Sand if you let the halyard go, the sail comes down like the blade
> of a guillotine.
> > Periodic maintenance is to flush the rack with dish soap and fresh water.
> >
> > Rick Brass
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> >> On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:12, Terry pearson  wrote:
> >>
> >> On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or
> >> similar)slide in
> > the mast track. I want to remove the "slide" track and go back to the
> > original sail slides for this mast, but I cant seem to find anything
> > telling me the proper size. the track appears to be able to
> > accommodate either round slugs or flat slides.is this possible? I
> > tried measuring the slide slot and it appears to be 15/16th wide flat
> slide .can anyone confirm this?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Confused:=)
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
> >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> >
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/CnC-List@cn

Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

[Ken Heaton]

Jig-a-Loo is absolutely nothing like McLube and less than half the price.

Jig-a-Loo is a silicone lubricant.

McLube is a Dry Lubricant.  They behave very differently.

"Sailkote is a high performance dry lubricant specifically designed for
marine use. Sailkote is a translucent liquid that sprays or wipes on and
completely dries in seconds. So, unlike oils, silicones, and waxes, it will
never attract dirt, water and contaminants that eventually degrade
lubrication performance."

MSDS Sheets on both:

http://www.jigaloo.com/us/pdf/US-JIG-A-LOO(JIGUSA701_JIGUSA1601&JIGUSA501)_EN.pdf

http://www.hoister.com/uploadedFiles/Product_Support/PDF/ML1-ML2_Sailkote-Domestic-Aerosol_MSDS_Eng.PDF

Ken H.



On 25 March 2014 17:35, JOHN D IRVIN  wrote:

> Jig-a-Loo is similar to McLube and less than half the price.
>
>   *From:* Paul Fountain 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 25, 2014 2:17:29 PM
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
>
> Terry,
>
> I have a C&C 33-II 1985, and there is no plastic track on my mast where the
> main hoists - it takes a flat slide, 7/8" wide, 1 1/2" long and 1/8" thick
> the track sides are a bit wider than the thickness of the loop on the
> slides.
>
> A strong track is on the wish list - but unfortunately not very close to
> the
> top, as the system works well except for the slides catching on the gate
> where they are inserted into the mast - I need to redesign the gate.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry
> pearson
> Sent: March 25, 2014 1:06 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
>
> Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove
> on
> my mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what
> it is. its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove.
> Its is getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge,
> creating all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on
> the outer edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at
> the
> point now that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see
> what fits. Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your
> mast groove look like?
>
> Thanks,
> Terry
> On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight  wrote:
>
> > Rick
> >
> > I can hoist the main sail on my 35 MKII to within at least 2 feet of
> > the top without a winch or strong track.  My main sail is equipped
> > with polymer slides that measure 1.47" long by 0.87" wide by 0.31"
> > thick, measured as carefully as I could with the sail rolled and pack
> > in its bag and these work very well in the as manufactured aluminium
> > track.  I also have to deal with the added friction involved with
> > leading the halyard through turning blocks to the cockpit.  I can
> > raise it all the way to the top without winch if I or someone else
> > pulls the halyard where it exits the mast.  I cleaned and sanded the
> > track in the mast at the same time as I sanded my mast a few years
> > back and I don't use any lubricant on the slides.  The sail does not
> > fall like the blade of a guillotine again because of friction on the
> > halyard from the turning blocks but I consider that a good thing as it
> > aids me in a controlled packing the sail without having to deal with
> > all the sail laying on the deck to start with... I don't have lazy
> > jacks or my Dutchman system installed and I usually end up packing my
> > mainsail alone the way I like it done, hopefully training it to fall the
> same way every time.  Maybe I am just a very strong man for my age.
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> > Rick Brass
> > Sent: March 25, 2014 11:33 AM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
> >
> > Before you even think about removing the "slide" track, go on line and
> > make sure it is not a Tides Marine Strong Track.
> >
> > If it is a strong track, it is one of the better upgrades that could
> > have been done on your boat. Performance is far better than you will
> > get from sail slugs in an internal track. I can hoist the main on my
> > 38 to within about 2 feet of the top without putting the halyard on a
> > winch. Sand if you let the halyard go, the sail comes down like the blade
> of a guillotine.
> > Periodic maintenance is to flush the rack with dish soap and fresh water.
> >
> > Rick Brass
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> >> On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:12, Terry pearson  wrote:
> >>
> >> On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or
> >> similar)slide in
> > the mast track. I want to remove the "slide" track and go back to the
> > original sail slides for this mast, but I cant seem to find anything
> > telling me the proper size. the track appears to be able to
> > accommodate either round slugs or flat slides.is this possible? I
> > tried 

Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

[Edd Schillay]

Ken Heaton is wise. 

Trust Ken Heaton.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

On Mar 25, 2014, at 5:03 PM, Ken Heaton  wrote:

> Jig-a-Loo is absolutely nothing like McLube and less than half the price.
> 
> Jig-a-Loo is a silicone lubricant.
> 
> McLube is a Dry Lubricant.  They behave very differently.
> 
> "Sailkote is a high performance dry lubricant specifically designed for 
> marine use. Sailkote is a translucent liquid that sprays or wipes on and 
> completely dries in seconds. So, unlike oils, silicones, and waxes, it will 
> never attract dirt, water and contaminants that eventually degrade 
> lubrication performance."
> 
> MSDS Sheets on both:
> 
> http://www.jigaloo.com/us/pdf/US-JIG-A-LOO(JIGUSA701_JIGUSA1601&JIGUSA501)_EN.pdf
> 
> http://www.hoister.com/uploadedFiles/Product_Support/PDF/ML1-ML2_Sailkote-Domestic-Aerosol_MSDS_Eng.PDF
> 
> Ken H.
> 
> 
> 
> On 25 March 2014 17:35, JOHN D IRVIN  wrote:
> Jig-a-Loo is similar to McLube and less than half the price.
> 
> From: Paul Fountain 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 2:17:29 PM
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
> 
> Terry,
> 
> I have a C&C 33-II 1985, and there is no plastic track on my mast where the
> main hoists - it takes a flat slide, 7/8" wide, 1 1/2" long and 1/8" thick
> the track sides are a bit wider than the thickness of the loop on the
> slides. 
> 
> A strong track is on the wish list - but unfortunately not very close to the
> top, as the system works well except for the slides catching on the gate
> where they are inserted into the mast - I need to redesign the gate.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry
> pearson
> Sent: March 25, 2014 1:06 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
> 
> Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove on
> my mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what
> it is. its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove.
> Its is getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge,
> creating all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on
> the outer edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at the
> point now that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see
> what fits. Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your
> mast groove look like?
> 
> Thanks,
> Terry
> On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight  wrote:
> 
> > Rick
> > 
> > I can hoist the main sail on my 35 MKII to within at least 2 feet of 
> > the top without a winch or strong track.  My main sail is equipped 
> > with polymer slides that measure 1.47" long by 0.87" wide by 0.31" 
> > thick, measured as carefully as I could with the sail rolled and pack 
> > in its bag and these work very well in the as manufactured aluminium 
> > track.  I also have to deal with the added friction involved with 
> > leading the halyard through turning blocks to the cockpit.  I can 
> > raise it all the way to the top without winch if I or someone else 
> > pulls the halyard where it exits the mast.  I cleaned and sanded the 
> > track in the mast at the same time as I sanded my mast a few years 
> > back and I don't use any lubricant on the slides.  The sail does not 
> > fall like the blade of a guillotine again because of friction on the 
> > halyard from the turning blocks but I consider that a good thing as it 
> > aids me in a controlled packing the sail without having to deal with 
> > all the sail laying on the deck to start with... I don't have lazy 
> > jacks or my Dutchman system installed and I usually end up packing my 
> > mainsail alone the way I like it done, hopefully training it to fall the
> same way every time.  Maybe I am just a very strong man for my age.
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> > Rick Brass
> > Sent: March 25, 2014 11:33 AM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
> > 
> > Before you even think about removing the "slide" track, go on line and 
> > make sure it is not a Tides Marine Strong Track.
> > 
> > If it is a strong track, it is one of the better upgrades that could 
> > have been done on your boat. Performance is far better than you will 
> > get from sail slugs in an internal track. I can hoist the main on my 
> > 38 to within about 2 feet of the top without putting the halyard on a 
> > winch. Sand if you let the halyard go, the sail comes down like the blade
> of a guillotine.
> > Periodic maintenance is to flush the rack with dish soap and fresh water.
> > 
> > Rick Brass
> > 
> > Sent from my iPad
> > 
> >> On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:12, Terry pearson  wrote:
> >> 
> >> On my 33

Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

[David]

Terry,

So to clean out the mast track you wet sanded it with 320?   I have cleaned and 
lubed my track and I think it needs a real good cleaning.  The last third of my 
hoist is way too difficult.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


> From: dwight...@gmail.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2014 16:32:34 -0300
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
> 
> Hi Terry
> I expect that my mast grove is similar to yours. Yes I am using flat slides
> and I measured the dimensions as close as I could so you should be able to
> find a close match.  Those slides are relatively inexpensive so I keep
> spares, webbing, waxed twine and a needle on board so I can repair when
> needed.  Personally from what you describe I would get rid of whatever is in
> the grove now, clean and sand the grove smooth while also cleaning and wet
> sanding your mast to 320 grit, boom and spreaders included, it will self
> anodize in seconds and the new surface will be clean and hard aluminium
> oxide in seconds after sanding, install new flats slides on your main sail
> with webbing...try them in the grove first and you can install them with the
> webbing quite easily yourself.
> 
> I started to put together a group of 35 MKII owners earlier this year and as
> of now I have 6 but I have done nothing since then...give me your
> particulars and I will add you to that list...maybe someday soon we will
> have enough 35 MKII owners on there to make specific MKII communications
> more applicable
> 
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>  
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry
> pearson
> Sent: March 25, 2014 2:06 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
> 
> Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove on
> my mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what
> it is. its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove.
> Its is getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge,
> creating all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on
> the outer edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at the
> point now that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see
> what fits. Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your
> mast groove look like?
> 
> Thanks,
> Terry
> On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight  wrote:
> 
> > Rick
> > 
> > I can hoist the main sail on my 35 MKII to within at least 2 feet of the
> top
> > without a winch or strong track.  My main sail is equipped with polymer
> > slides that measure 1.47" long by 0.87" wide by 0.31" thick, measured as
> > carefully as I could with the sail rolled and pack in its bag and these
> work
> > very well in the as manufactured aluminium track.  I also have to deal
> with
> > the added friction involved with leading the halyard through turning
> blocks
> > to the cockpit.  I can raise it all the way to the top without winch if I
> or
> > someone else pulls the halyard where it exits the mast.  I cleaned and
> > sanded the track in the mast at the same time as I sanded my mast a few
> > years back and I don't use any lubricant on the slides.  The sail does not
> > fall like the blade of a guillotine again because of friction on the
> halyard
> > from the turning blocks but I consider that a good thing as it aids me in
> a
> > controlled packing the sail without having to deal with all the sail
> laying
> > on the deck to start with... I don't have lazy jacks or my Dutchman system
> > installed and I usually end up packing my mainsail alone the way I like it
> > done, hopefully training it to fall the same way every time.  Maybe I am
> > just a very strong man for my age.
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> > Brass
> > Sent: March 25, 2014 11:33 AM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
> > 
> > Before you even think about removing the "slide" track, go on line and
> make
> > sure it is not a Tides Marine Strong Track. 
> > 
> > If it is a strong track, it is one of the better upgrades that could have
> > been done on your boat. Performance is far better than you will get from
> > sail slugs in an internal track. I can hoist the main on my 38 to within
> > about 2 feet of the top without putting the halyard on a winch. Sand if
> you
> > let the halyard go, the sail comes down like the blade of a guillotine.
> > Periodic maintenance is to flush the rack with dish soap and fresh water.
> > 
> > Rick Brass
> > 
> > Sent from my iPad
> > 
> >> On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:12, Terry pearson  wrote:
> >> 
> >> On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or similar)slide in
> > the mast track. I want to remove the "slide" track and go back to the
> > original sail slides for this mast, but I cant seem

Re: Stus-List lube for sails

[Chuck S]

I started using McLube years ago. One can lasts several years. I simply spray 
the genoa tabbing before the first hoist and it lubes the whole track. I spray 
the furler track as far as I can reach from the deck using the red straw, then 
spray extra on the top two feet of tabbing and a little on the whole tabbing 
while it is flaked on deck. Then hoist the sail. World of difference on this 
48' luff. I do this alone and don't use the winch except for the last few feet. 

Similarly, I spray the mainsail slides w the same stuff. I spray the mast track 
as far as I can reach and each slide while the main is flaked on deck, then 
load the slides into the gate, flake the sail onto the boom. I might spray it 
again before the first hoist, just for good measure, and it lasts a long time 
on the 43' luff. 

I'm a big believer in preventive maintenance and carry Boeshield T-9 for 
mechanical lube like rope clutches or pulley sheaves or turnbuckles. 
Dielectric grease for my electrical connections and O-rings on the speedo. 
3 in 1 oil for the Edson steering cables. 
SuperLube Synthetic Grease for the rudder bearings 
Lubriplate AA Grease for the MaxProp 

Moist of this lubing gets done in the Spring and is not repeated after that. 

Chuck 



- Original Message -

From: "Joel Aronson"  
To: "JOHN D IRVIN" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 4:59:06 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII 

John, 

Jig A Loo is silicone based. McLube is basically teflon in a spray. I used 
McLube on my sail slides for the first time last year. Made a huge difference! 
Next time someone goes up the mast they are taking the can with them! 

Joel 


On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 4:35 PM, JOHN D IRVIN < john.ir...@rogers.com > wrote: 



Jig-a-Loo is similar to McLube and less than half the price. 

From: Paul Fountain < paul.fount...@sympatico.ca > 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 2:17:29 PM 

Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII 

Terry, 

I have a C&C 33-II 1985, and there is no plastic track on my mast where the 
main hoists - it takes a flat slide, 7/8" wide, 1 1/2" long and 1/8" thick 
the track sides are a bit wider than the thickness of the loop on the 
slides. 

A strong track is on the wish list - but unfortunately not very close to the 
top, as the system works well except for the slides catching on the gate 
where they are inserted into the mast - I need to redesign the gate. 

-Original Message- 
From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Terry 
pearson 
Sent: March 25, 2014 1:06 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII 

Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove on 
my mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what 
it is. its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove. 
Its is getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge, 
creating all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on 
the outer edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at the 
point now that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see 
what fits. Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your 
mast groove look like? 

Thanks, 
Terry 
On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight < dwight...@gmail.com > wrote: 

> Rick 
> 
> I can hoist the main sail on my 35 MKII to within at least 2 feet of 
> the top without a winch or strong track. My main sail is equipped 
> with polymer slides that measure 1.47" long by 0.87" wide by 0.31" 
> thick, measured as carefully as I could with the sail rolled and pack 
> in its bag and these work very well in the as manufactured aluminium 
> track. I also have to deal with the added friction involved with 
> leading the halyard through turning blocks to the cockpit. I can 
> raise it all the way to the top without winch if I or someone else 
> pulls the halyard where it exits the mast. I cleaned and sanded the 
> track in the mast at the same time as I sanded my mast a few years 
> back and I don't use any lubricant on the slides. The sail does not 
> fall like the blade of a guillotine again because of friction on the 
> halyard from the turning blocks but I consider that a good thing as it 
> aids me in a controlled packing the sail without having to deal with 
> all the sail laying on the deck to start with... I don't have lazy 
> jacks or my Dutchman system installed and I usually end up packing my 
> mainsail alone the way I like it done, hopefully training it to fall the 
same way every time. Maybe I am just a very strong man for my age. 
> 
> -Original Message- 
> From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of 
> Rick Brass 
> Sent: March 25, 2014 11:33 AM 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII 
> 
> Before you even think about removing the "slide" track, go on line and 
> make sure it is not a Tides Marin

Re: Stus-List Cheaper Tether

[Jim Watts]

There is a very interesting thread started by Evans Starzinger over on Gear
Anarchy. The conclusion after many pages is that a tether should be very
stretchy, like 7mm dynamic climbing rope. If you hit even half the breaking
strength of most gear with zero stretch your body would be mush.

There is also much information about soft shackles and splicing dyneema in
general. I would recommend it as a great read for anyone interested in
safety. It does mean you have to sign up to be able to see all the pretty
pictures...
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=154025&page=1


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 24 March 2014 21:21, Russ & Melody  wrote:

>
> Yup.
> Me too, but for different reasons...
> I spliced my own tether outta Amsteel and have a locking carbiner on the
> belay instead of using one of the fancy store bought and approved units
> everyone seems to rave about.
> On the other hand it is a marked improvement over our very first harness
> used for offshore work. That was a loop of climber's tube webbing with two
> overhand eyes in it, 180 degrees apart, and twisted to a figure of eight
> (cross at the back) for wearing. What a lark! One each for Melody and the
> kid too.
>
> BTW. I don't agree with the statement. At our age if we did that it will
> hurt too much when we hit the ground. :)
> Other than that it's okay, I like a snap shackle at he body end.
>
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>
>
>
> At 05:03 PM 24/03/2014, you wrote:
>
> Hmm.  Well, I guess I'm dead.
>
>
> you wrote:
>
> You must be able to unfasten the shackle on your harness with one hand
> while suspended off the ground with your full weight on it
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Boat AC Outlets

[Jim Watts]

The GFI didn't fit my outlet box until I attacked the box with a Dremel and
some files. It was a very tight fit. I think Graham had the same problem
and just switched to a bigger outlet box.

I found that the portside outlet breaker actually served the nav station as
well as the whole port side so one GFI covered the nav station, galley and
head. That left one outlet on the starboard side of the V-berth unprotected
and I don't care about that one.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 24 March 2014 08:30, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> GFI outlets don't fit in the junction boxes on my boat.  I hope you don't
> have the same problem!
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 24, 2014 at 11:08 AM, Rich Knowles  wrote:
>
>> The only place you need a GFCI is for outlets. Water heaters and chargers
>> are notorious for nuisance trips.
>>
>> Rich
>>
>> On Mar 24, 2014, at 10:42, "Bill Coleman"  wrote:
>>
>>  I tried adding new GFI's on my AC where it comes in, and ended up
>> removing them because of nuisance tripping .
>>
>>
>>
>> I was told that on one side it was the Charger - apparently the
>> transformer takes a millisecond to load, and that caused constant tripping,
>> and the other side maybe needed new wiring.   One problem I could solve but
>> if the charger/Inverter is really the problem, that is a problem.  Maybe I
>> just need to install downstream from that, but then not everything is
>> covered.  I guess nothing is covered now.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> C&C 39 
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List 
>> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
>> *On Behalf Of *Rich Knowles
>> *Sent:* Sunday, March 23, 2014 10:53 PM
>> *To:* kenhea...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boat AC Outlets
>>
>>
>>
>> FWIW GFCI's in a marine environment can be a real nuisance when they
>> trip due to small leakage currents caused by humidity and salt etc. They
>> are generally not required by electrical code on shore power outlets and in
>> RV parks. On board one in each AC branch circuit is adequate as a string of
>> outlets can be run off and be protected by one GFCI.
>>
>>
>> Rich
>>
>>
>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 22:24, Ken Heaton  wrote:
>>
>>  Hello Edd,
>>
>>
>>
>> In one of my former lives I worked as a Journeyman Construction &
>> Maintenance Electrician.  One of those Tradesman guys.
>>
>>
>>
>> I really don't think there is such a thing as a marine GFI.  Just buy
>> brand some name GFI's and install them.  They may not last more than 8 or
>> 10 years in that environment but they're relatively cheap so no great loss.
>>
>>
>>
>> On the other hand, if you do want to spend money, the GFCI's on pages 20
>> and 21 of this Hubbell Brochure are some of the best out there:
>> http://www.hubbell-wiring.com/press/pdfs/h5254.pdf
>>
>>
>>
>> I wouldn't bother with the tamper resistant ones, I find that feature
>> annoying.
>>
>>
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>>
>>
>> On 23 March 2014 19:41, Edd Schillay  wrote:
>>
>> Listers,
>>
>>
>>
>> It looks like the Enterprise's AC system has suffered some corrosion over
>> the winter and I'm thinking of doing a bit of an overhaul, including
>> replacing some of the outlets on board with GFI ones that will stand up to
>> a marine environment.
>>
>>
>>
>> Anyone have a recommendation on the best outlets to buy? Looks like
>> Defender and West Marine don't sell any. Links would be appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>>
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>>
>> ---
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>>
>> Starship Enterprise
>>
>> NCC-1701-B
>>
>> C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
>>
>> www.StarshipSailing.com
>>
>> ---
>>
>> 914.332.4400  | Office
>>
>> 914.332.1671  | Fax
>>
>> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
>>
>> ---
>>
>> Sent via iPhone 5
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>>  ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>  ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

[Brian Morrison]

Thanks Gary. That's the kind of workaround I was hoping for. 

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

> On Mar 25, 2014, at 12:53 PM, "Gary Nylander"  
> wrote:
> 
> If you're not looking for the ultimate racing bottom, why not do a careful 
> scrape to get the loose stuff off and put something on top? Talk to the paint 
> manufacturers or West Marine - they have tables of what goes over what. You 
> can put something like Hydrocoat over just about anything and, because it is 
> ablative, it will mostly come off in a year or so and you can continue (as 
> long as you aren't getting big peels) as long as you want. Baltoplate is very 
> hard and smooth and doesn't have much copper or other anti-fouling 
> properties, that's why the racers use it, but they dive on the boat every 
> couple of weeks or more often.
> 
> A hand sanding just to put some 'bite' on what's there (after getting the 
> loose stuff off) should get you through the year. Use a sponge sanding block, 
> then roll on whatever you decide to use.
> 
> But, sooner or later you should have all the junk taken off and get down to 
> gelcoat and then put a barrier coat on - that will keep the boat from 
> absorbing moisture and possibly developing blisters. When I peeled mine, I 
> found that it already had a barrier coat (PO?) and that was good. I have been 
> using Hydrocoat ever since.
> 
> Gary
> - Original Message - From: "Brian Morrison" 
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 12:13 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
> 
> 
>> That is the case somewhat Gary. In most areas it peeled down to the gelcoat. 
>> If I could get away with one season of painting on top of what's there 
>> without too many issues I would take that.
>> 
>> Brian
>> 
>> Dr. Brian C. Morrison
>> 
>>> On Mar 25, 2014, at 9:58 AM, "Gary Nylander"  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I think the original note said there had been Baltoplate and then something 
>>> else on top - and the something else was what was peeling. My impression is 
>>> not many other paints (or anything else) stick to Baltoplate, so it has to 
>>> be roughed up and/or stripped off, which means what is on top is the 
>>> problem.
>>> 
>>> Unfortunately, this top coat will have to be taken off or you will end up 
>>> just patching it every year.
>>> 
>>> Gary
>>> 
>>> 
>>> - Original Message - From: "Jake Brodersen" 
>>> To: 
>>> Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 5:59 AM
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
>>> 
>>> 
 Brian,
 
 My boat originally  had Baltoplate.  I successfully put VC Offshore over 
 the
 top of it for a number of years without any adhesion problems.  The paints
 are quite similar.  Last year I had the boat soda blasted.  I then did a
 barrier coat and VC Offshore.  The hull came out of the soda blasting very
 smooth.  No way could I have ever sanded it clean and left a smooth 
 surface.
 The only thing I needed to do was fill a couple of blisters and start the
 barrier coat.  It's definitely the right way to go, if you plan on keeping
 the boat for the long haul.
 
 Jake
 
 Jake Brodersen
 "Midnight Mistress"
 C&C 35 Mk-III
 Hampton Va
 
 
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian
 Morrison
 Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
 
 The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to
 paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner
 had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of
 paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to
 the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and
 labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor
 using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a
 viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
 Brian C. Morrison
 1979 C&C 34
 Rekofa
 ___
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

[Brian Morrison]

Not concerned with racing at all or appearance on the hard for that matter. My 
concerns here is sufficient protection and cost. 

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

> On Mar 25, 2014, at 3:23 PM, "dwight"  wrote:
> 
> I agree with most of what Gary says but I am not aware of many C&C boats
> that ever developed blisters...my knowledge is of boats in more northern
> climates maybe, like here around Nova Scotia.  And as far as the racing
> goes, I appreciate for guys like Dennis Connor and his book "No Excuse to
> Lose" that a clean bottom is faster but for most of us, we lose by other
> means.  So if getting the bottom perfect is what you need to do to gain
> those precious seconds then strip her down fair everything to perfection,
> long sand the bottom and dry sail the boat...that seems a lot of work for
> club racing but sometimes ego rules...otherwise just clean and repair the
> bad spots and concentrate on improving some of the other skills that will
> make you chances of winning better...unless you want to do a lot of work or
> if you are particularly concerned about how the bottom looks on the hard
> before launch
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
> Nylander
> Sent: March 25, 2014 1:52 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
> 
> If you're not looking for the ultimate racing bottom, why not do a careful 
> scrape to get the loose stuff off and put something on top? Talk to the 
> paint manufacturers or West Marine - they have tables of what goes over 
> what. You can put something like Hydrocoat over just about anything and, 
> because it is ablative, it will mostly come off in a year or so and you can 
> continue (as long as you aren't getting big peels) as long as you want. 
> Baltoplate is very hard and smooth and doesn't have much copper or other 
> anti-fouling properties, that's why the racers use it, but they dive on the 
> boat every couple of weeks or more often.
> 
> A hand sanding just to put some 'bite' on what's there (after getting the 
> loose stuff off) should get you through the year. Use a sponge sanding 
> block, then roll on whatever you decide to use.
> 
> But, sooner or later you should have all the junk taken off and get down to 
> gelcoat and then put a barrier coat on - that will keep the boat from 
> absorbing moisture and possibly developing blisters. When I peeled mine, I 
> found that it already had a barrier coat (PO?) and that was good. I have 
> been using Hydrocoat ever since.
> 
> Gary
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

[Chuck S]

$1600 to professionally Soda blast bottom. Fair any problems, Barrier Coat 5 
coats of InterProtect, alternating white and grey, 4 to 5 gallons. Bottom paint 
for Baltimore's brackish water, Micron Extra, 2 gallons. $2000 probably doesn't 
do all that is needed, just saying? 

Chuck 


- Original Message -

From: "Brian Morrison"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19:25 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question 

The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint 
the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had 
baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The 
paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and 
starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on 
my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other 
method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any 
advice would be greatly appreciated. 

Brian C. Morrison 
1979 C&C 34 
Rekofa 
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

[Brian Morrison]

Thanks Rob

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

> On Mar 25, 2014, at 4:11 PM, "Robert Abbott"  wrote:
> 
> Brian:
> 
> One always has the option doing very littlethrow another coat of paint 
> over the old stuff.
> 
> However, if you decide you want to do more than 'very little', you got it 
> right."To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my 
> part. "So true.
> 
> So, do you want to strip a 34' hull of antifouling paint (last time I did it 
> was 1991, won't ever do it myself again) and apply paint..so that is the 
> very time and labor intensive on your part.  And if you haven't done it 
> before, it will make for even more angst.
> 
> Now you can pay to have it done.pay now and have it done right, its a 
> long term investment.   Won't tell you what I did in 2006 when we brought our 
> C&C 32.don't want to be bias.
> 
> Life is all about making choices..hope that helps.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
>> On 2014/03/24 10:19 PM, Brian Morrison wrote:
>> The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to 
>> paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner 
>> had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of 
>> paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to 
>> the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and 
>> labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor 
>> using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a 
>> viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>> 
>> Brian C. Morrison
>> 1979 C&C 34
>> Rekofa
>> ___
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> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

[Brian Morrison]

Whew!!! I'll keep that in mind for the future Chuck. 

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

> On Mar 25, 2014, at 7:13 PM, "Chuck S"  wrote:
> 
> $1600 to professionally Soda blast bottom.  Fair any problems, Barrier Coat 5 
> coats of InterProtect, alternating white and grey, 4 to 5 gallons.  Bottom 
> paint for Baltimore's brackish water, Micron Extra, 2 gallons.   $2000 
> probably doesn't do all that is needed, just saying?
> 
> Chuck
> 
> 
> From: "Brian Morrison" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19:25 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
> 
> The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to 
> paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner 
> had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. 
> The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the 
> gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor 
> intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using 
> some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable 
> alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
> 
> Brian C. Morrison
> 1979 C&C 34
> Rekofa 
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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII sail slides

[Chuck S]

You can buy a couple small packs of slides from West or Defender? Take back the 
size that doesn't fit? 

- Original Message -

From: "Terry pearson"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:12:25 PM 
Subject: Stus-List 1986 33MKII 

On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or similar)slide in the 
mast track. I want to remove the "slide" track and go back to the original sail 
slides for this mast, but I cant seem to find anything telling me the proper 
size. the track appears to be able to accommodate either round slugs or flat 
slides.is this possible? I tried measuring the slide slot and it appears to be 
15/16th wide flat slide .can anyone confirm this? 

Thanks, 
Confused:=) 


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Re: Stus-List Anyone need some C&C30 parts?

[Peter Fell]

Don’t forget the mast step.

From: Brent Driedger 
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2014 7:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone need some C&C30 parts?

True enough.  Bulkheads could be black at the chain plates and that 40 year old 
rig would need $15k worth of refit. 

Brent. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 21, 2014, at 9:41 AM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:


  There are no pictures of the interior, maybe racoons have been living on it. 
Anything's possible. My point being that the keel may not be the only problem. 

  Steve
  Suhana, C&C 32
  Toronto



  On Fri, Mar 21, 2014 at 10:38 AM, Gary Nylander  
wrote:

The cracks along the keel to hull joint look like the usual "C&C smile". 
The whack in the leading edge of the keel looks pretty serious - it is right 
over the keel to hull joint, so there would need to be some lead work (filling, 
but could be with something other than lead -small ding when looking at the 
size of the keel) and some glass filling.

The hulls below the water line are not cored - I put a new hole in mine for 
the speed xducer and it came out all glass.

I guess the buyer would have to figure out what to do - could get a cheap 
(good) boat depending on what other equipment is offered for a minimal amount 
of work - and depending on the price.

Gary
- Original Message - From: "Brent Driedger" 

To: "C&C List" 
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2014 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone need some C&C30 parts? 




You know, she doesn’t look that bad. The keel stub is repairable and built 
like a tank. The hull… I’m not sure, are these boats cored? If so bring in the 
chain saws….

Brent Driedger
27-5
s/v Wild Rover


On Mar 20, 2014, at 7:54 PM, j...@svpaws.net wrote:


  Paul - where are you located?  I know a Paul Baker.

  John


  Sent from my iPad


On Mar 20, 2014, at 7:48 PM, Paul Baker  wrote:

I looked at this one last year before getting my current boat, looks 
like she's been in the wars since.  IIRC she was nicely equipped for racing. 
Sad.


http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/SALVAGE-SALE-1976-30-ft-CC-Fibreglass-Sailboat_21760888


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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

[Danny Haughey]

I got a price to sandblast, fair, barrier coat and bottom paint for $2650 
including materials.  They're doing the work now


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Chuck S  
Date: 03/25/2014  7:12 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question 
 
$1600 to professionally Soda blast bottom.  Fair any problems, Barrier Coat 5 
coats of InterProtect, alternating white and grey, 4 to 5 gallons.  Bottom 
paint for Baltimore's brackish water, Micron Extra, 2 gallons.   $2000 probably 
doesn't do all that is needed, just saying?

Chuck


From: "Brian Morrison" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19:25 PM
Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint 
the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had 
baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The 
paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and 
starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on 
my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other 
method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any 
advice would be greatly appreciated. 

Brian C. Morrison
1979 C&C 34
Rekofa 
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High blood pressure breakthrough
Korean Biochemist makes high blood pressure breakthrough
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

[Jake Brodersen]

Gary,

I read the VC Offshore instructions today.  It is approved to put over
Baltoplate.  Both paints have compatible chemistry.  I've done it and it
works well.

I was only reading the instruction to find out the temperature limits for
applying VC.  It's currently 34F and snowing here.  Evidently I can't paint
until the hull is at least 50F.

Jake

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 9:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question

I think the original note said there had been Baltoplate and then something
else on top - and the something else was what was peeling. My impression is
not many other paints (or anything else) stick to Baltoplate, so it has to
be roughed up and/or stripped off, which means what is on top is the
problem.

Unfortunately, this top coat will have to be taken off or you will end up
just patching it every year.

Gary



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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII sail slides

[Joel Aronson]

Sailrite has at least a dozen different slides. Dimensions are in the
catalog.

Joel

On Tuesday, March 25, 2014, Chuck S  wrote:

> You can buy a couple small packs of slides from West or Defender?  Take
> back the size that doesn't fit?
>
> --
> *From: *"Terry pearson" 
> 
> >
> *To: 
> *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent: *Monday, March 24, 2014 9:12:25 PM
> *Subject: *Stus-List 1986 33MKII
>
> On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or similar)slide in
> the mast track. I want to remove the "slide" track and go back to the
> original sail slides for this mast, but I cant seem to find anything
> telling me the proper size. the track appears to be able to accommodate
> either round slugs or flat slides.is this possible? I tried measuring the
> slide slot and it appears to be 15/16th wide flat slide .can anyone confirm
> this?
>
> Thanks,
> Confused:=)
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Boat AC Outlets

[Graham Collins]

Indeed, I just swapped out the outlet box - they are generic home depot 
types so it was painless (and I'd left the dremel at home).  You will 
need two boxes and GFIs, the one adjacent the electrical panel is 
connected to (and protects) the galley and mast step area outlets, and 
you will need one for the v-berth.  I put mine in a couple of years ago 
and they have worked fine since then, although we do not live at a dock 
so most of their use is actually this time of year while I'm working on 
the boat...


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-03-25 7:57 PM, Jim Watts wrote:
The GFI didn't fit my outlet box until I attacked the box with a 
Dremel and some files. It was a very tight fit. I think Graham had the 
same problem and just switched to a bigger outlet box.


I found that the portside outlet breaker actually served the nav 
station as well as the whole port side so one GFI covered the nav 
station, galley and head. That left one outlet on the starboard side 
of the V-berth unprotected and I don't care about that one.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 24 March 2014 08:30, Joel Aronson > wrote:


GFI outlets don't fit in the junction boxes on my boat.  I hope
you don't have the same problem!

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Mon, Mar 24, 2014 at 11:08 AM, Rich Knowles mailto:r...@sailpower.ca>> wrote:

The only place you need a GFCI is for outlets. Water heaters
and chargers are notorious for nuisance trips.

Rich

On Mar 24, 2014, at 10:42, "Bill Coleman" mailto:colt...@verizon.net>> wrote:


I tried adding new GFI's on my AC where it comes in, and
ended up removing them because of nuisance tripping .

I was told that on one side it was the Charger -- apparently
the transformer takes a millisecond to load, and that caused
constant tripping, and the other side maybe needed new
wiring.   One problem I could solve but if the
charger/Inverter is really the problem, that is a problem. 
Maybe I just need to install downstream from that, but then

not everything is covered.  I guess nothing is covered now.

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On
Behalf Of *Rich Knowles
*Sent:* Sunday, March 23, 2014 10:53 PM
*To:* kenhea...@gmail.com ;
cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boat AC Outlets

FWIW GFCI's in a marine environment can be a real
nuisance when they trip due to small leakage currents caused
by humidity and salt etc. They are generally not required by
electrical code on shore power outlets and in RV parks. On
board one in each AC branch circuit is adequate as a string
of outlets can be run off and be protected by one GFCI.


Rich


On Mar 23, 2014, at 22:24, Ken Heaton mailto:kenhea...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Hello Edd,

In one of my former lives I worked as a Journeyman
Construction & Maintenance Electrician.  One of those
Tradesman guys.

I really don't think there is such a thing as a marine
GFI.  Just buy brand some name GFI's and install them.
 They may not last more than 8 or 10 years in that
environment but they're relatively cheap so no great loss.

On the other hand, if you do want to spend money, the
GFCI's on pages 20 and 21 of this Hubbell Brochure are
some of the best out there:
http://www.hubbell-wiring.com/press/pdfs/h5254.pdf

I wouldn't bother with the tamper resistant ones, I find
that feature annoying.

Ken H.

On 23 March 2014 19:41, Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com>> wrote:

Listers,

It looks like the Enterprise's AC system has suffered
some corrosion over the winter and I'm thinking of doing
a bit of an overhaul, including replacing some of the
outlets on board with GFI ones that will stand up to a
marine environment.

Anyone have a recommendation on the best outlets to buy?
Looks like Defender and West Marine don't sell any. Links
would be appreciated.

All the best,

Edd

---

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Starship Enterprise

NCC-1701-B

C&C 37+ | City Island, NY

www.StarshipSailing.com 

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