Re: Stus-List furuno radars

[Rich Knowles]

Radar scanners are generally designed to work with a particular display or 
series of displays. They are complex and the interconnection will reflect how 
the various functions of the radar system are shared between the scanner and 
display. Make no assumptions. 

I suggest contacting a knowledgeable dealer or service rep who will be able to 
answer your question. 

Rich

> On Oct 23, 2013, at 17:48, "J.P."  wrote:
> 
> All,
>  
> I am not real sharp on radar.. but I have a Furuno 1832 that I want to 
> install on my boat and I am wondering if ANY 4kw model furuno radome will 
> work? Are the radomes interchangeable like other antennas? Anyone have any 
> experience putting radar on their boat?
> 
> JP
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Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

[Frederick G Street]

ALL inland waters are No Discharge.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Oct 23, 2013, at 4:42 PM, "Rick Brass"  wrote:

> I’d need to look at the USCG website to see if the Great Lakes are a No 
> Discharge zone, or if the discharge of untreated waste is what is restricted. 
> Since I’m unlikely to be going there anytime soon, I’ve never looked at the 
> requirements.

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Re: Stus-List Part numbers for 3GMF seawater pump

[Bill Connon]

Bill Coleman wrote:

If you are talking about the front cover and it's seal, why not get a
Speedseal cover?  I ordered one several years ago, it got here from UK in a
week, works great.  Uses an O ring instead of a gasket, on and off in a
minute with no tools.
You could probably give dimensions and get the right one.


Bill Coleman
C&C 39




  Bill,
That's a missed opportunity as the parts are already on their way from 
Montreal.


Bill
Caprice 1


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Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

[jtsails]

Some of the Coasties in our area have a little trouble understanding what 
constitutes a No Discharge zone. I watched a couple of issue a citation to a 
boat for his bilge pump discharge in an area that is definitely not a no 
discharge zone. That issue was cleared up after a conversation with the 
regional commander of the coasties!
James
S/V Delaney
1976 C&C 38
Oriental, NC
  - Original Message - 
  From: j...@svpaws.net 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 4:35 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.


  Ah Are you sure about the lectrasan?  You seem to be implying that their 
use is legal in a no discharge zone?


  John


  Sent from my iPad

  On Oct 23, 2013, at 4:27 PM, "Rick Brass"  wrote:


Did an offshore passage in a boat with a composting head, and heartily 
recommend the concept. The only downside I found to the installation I 
experienced was the need to climb up onto the head – this one was pretty tall.



I removed the holding tank on my 38 a few years ago and installed in its 
place a Lectra-San, a 9 gallon tank, and a group 24 deep cycle battery to power 
the Lectra-San and the windlass. In the past 4 years or so I’ve never had to 
worry about a pumpout or overboard discharge – though I have had to explain to 
a couple of Coasties and USCG Auxilliary folks what “No Discharge” means and 
the CG rules for a type I MSD.



Rick Brass



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 7:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.



I'm not really sure what the banana would do...  Lol

I have thought about the porta potty and then thought the composting toilet 
would have been a better idea.  I'm still not completely convinced that it 
isn't.  It is an easy install and for the amount of time we need it, it may 
well be a good solution.  However, it grossed out the admiral.  So, I'm on to 
this solution of a good holding tank design.

T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network

- Reply message -
From: "bobmor99 ." 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.
Date: Mon, Oct 21, 2013 9:51 pm



I'm mainly a daysailor who has so far avoided the poo issue. If I were to 
forgo my very comfortable bed and spend a night aboard Ox, I would first try to 
address the poo problem at the source - with bananas. Beyond that, I'd go Porta 
Potti and deal with it.

Bob M

Ox 33-1

Jax, FL



On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 11:27 AM, djhaug...@juno.com  
wrote:

Okay guys,



I'm planning a new waste system.  I'm going with the Raritan PHC head and a 
new holding tank.  I currently have a very old Jabsco head and a bladder 
holding tank.  I really don't like the bladder.  It has worked okay but, one 
day it will fail and it will be disgusting!  I just want rid of it...



I'm looking for ideas on the design.  i.e.  Where to install the tank and 
how to pipe it.  I've been reading and I was thinking to try and install about 
a 16-18 gallon tank, that conforms to the hull, behind the head.  However, 
after a closer look on Saturday, I'm not sure there is enough room there.  I 
was kind of hoping to install it there in order to pipe up a gravity drain for 
when I'm in an area where that is possible.  This would also keep the hose runs 
very short and I could easily vent and pipe the pump-out fitting in the side 
deck above.



Of course that would have the need of piping up hill to get into the tank 
and make it a bit harder to clear the waste from the hose with every flush.  
Then I heard it might be better to have the waste run downhill to the tank.  
That would create the need of pumping overboard if I were in an area that 
allowed it and the need of another pump.  



I'm not exactly sure how the pump-out system works when having it done at a 
pump-out station.  Is it a fitting that attaches to the deck fitting and sucks 
it up the hose or, do they run a smaller hose down into the tank and suck it 
directly out with their hose?



Anyway,  As always, any and all advice, insights and colorful comments are 
appreciated!



Danny

Lolita

1973 Viking 33

Westport Point, MA


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Stus-List mounting sprit on the deck

[Tom Buscaglia]

Pics please!

At 03:12 PM 10/23/2013, you wrote:


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of niall
buckley
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 4:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List mounting sprit on the deck



Hi I designed and installed a SS removable sprit on my C&C 41.

Works like a charm.

I'll send you pics, if you like. Or you can shoot me some questions if you
like.

Cheers,



Niall.


Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Re: Stus-List mounting sprit on the deck

[niall buckley]

OK
I'll take them at the weekend.
I'll send them right away.
Cheers,
Niall


On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 8:19 PM, Tom Buscaglia  wrote:

>  Pics please!
>
> At 03:12 PM 10/23/2013, you wrote:
>
> From: CnC-List [ 
> mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
> On Behalf Of niall
> buckley
> Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 4:50 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mounting sprit on the deck
>
>
>
> Hi I designed and installed a SS removable sprit on my C&C 41.
>
> Works like a charm.
>
> I'll send you pics, if you like. Or you can shoot me some questions if you
> like.
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Niall.
>
> **
>
> ** Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
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Re: Stus-List Booze on Board?

[bobmor99 .]

The C2H5OH brand works for me - and for my A4 when mixed with 90% gasoline.
One day the marketeers will brand the wind that fills our sails.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Thu, Oct 17, 2013 at 2:24 PM, Curtis  wrote:

> O.k,
> I'm trying to stock the East Coast lady with a good assortment of
> beverage. I would like to here from the readers out there what they
> keep on board for them self's and for the guest?
> Rum
> Wine
> champaine ?
>
> Thanks for your list in advance.
> Capt. Curt
>
> --
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>
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Re: Stus-List Season's Over

[bobmor99 .]

Yep, lots of runoff. No one cares. The racers figure it slows down everyone
equally .


On Tue, Oct 22, 2013 at 12:35 PM, Frederick G Street wrote:

> Eeewww… looks like lots of runoff.  Makes me glad that Lake Superior is
> considered biologically barren ("oligotrophic") due to the low water temps…
>   :^)
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Booze on Board?

[Lisa Lias]

Captain Ron gave an answer for us, but as Galley Wench and what is often called 
Admiral I'll fill in some blanks. 

We never know who might be aboard any given weekend other than us. So:

Single malt scotch
Rum
Diet coke
Ginger Ale (non diet)
Cheap-ish champagne
Red wine
Beer 

It makes us look a little bad the way the list is weighted, but the thing is, a 
good galley wench/admiral is ready for any and all, be it kids under 18 or 
friends


Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 23, 2013, at 8:30 PM, "bobmor99 ."  wrote:
> 
> The C2H5OH brand works for me - and for my A4 when mixed with 90% gasoline. 
> One day the marketeers will brand the wind that fills our sails.
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Oct 17, 2013 at 2:24 PM, Curtis  wrote:
>> O.k,
>> I'm trying to stock the East Coast lady with a good assortment of
>> beverage. I would like to here from the readers out there what they
>> keep on board for them self's and for the guest?
>> Rum
>> Wine
>> champaine ?
>> 
>> Thanks for your list in advance.
>> Capt. Curt
>> 
>> --
>> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
>> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>> 
>> ___
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>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
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Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

[Dennis C.]

First, I've had both the Raritan PH-II and Jabsco heads. My opinion is the 
Raritan is better. I have Jabsco now and it works well also. 

Now the real reason for the post. I work on heads. People pay me nice $$ to fix 
them. My opinion - never rebuild a head pump. Instead install a new pump 
assembly. Cost differential isn't that great and you'll eliminate ALL sources 
of problems with the pump. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 23, 2013, at 1:28 PM, Tim Goodyear  wrote:
> 
> Gary, thanks, yes, that has worked well for me on pumping issues.  I have two 
> other current issues that I'm working on:
> The last couple of times I've arrived at the boat there has been 'stuff' in 
> the bowl; the joker valve is not doing it's job and is allowing what's left 
> in the discharge hose to flow slowly back.  I left the system soaking in 
> white wine vinegar last night and will see if that helps.  The head only 
> receives recycled beer and rum, the joker valve was replaced last year, but 
> still seems to need maintenance much more regularly than I want to get my 
> hands into that area.  The last two occasions I've used the rebuild kit I 
> have cracked the plastic housing for the flush water inlet / outlet, meaning 
> more, hard-to-get-hold-of parts.
> The pump handle is broken off - we were racing two weeks ago and a novice 
> tried to use the head while we were going upwind in > 20 knots...  The pump 
> and he suffered bruising.  This means I need to source parts for the pump 
> anyway this winter, and given my satisfaction level overall caused me to 
> think of something better.
> Thanks,
>  
> Tim
>  
>> On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 8:24 AM, Gary Nylander  
>> wrote:
>> Before you replace another pump, try headlube - available at West Marine 
>> (and others). I was about to venture into another replacement project when 
>> this was suggested. My pump wasn't drawing water from the thru hull, but was 
>> pumping OK into the holding tank. I put the lube in, and after about 15 
>> pumps, here came the water! No project.
>>  
>> Gary
>> - Original Message -
>> From: Tim Goodyear
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 7:09 AM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.
>> 
>> Danny, what are the reasons you are going with the Raritan PHC (there are 
>> many options out there)?  I am done with replacing the pump annually on the 
>> Wilcox Crittenden / Thetford Headmate head in Mojito and was looking at a 
>> replacement.  Now, if only the pumps were interchangeable between models...
>>  
>> Thanks,
>>  
>> Tim
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Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

[Russ & Melody]

I'll cover that Raritan recommendation. We lived aboard a couple o' 
years (with a pre-ten) and had no head issues beyond a leaky pump 
seal. The seal replacement was an easy job done with toilet in place, 
no pump removal.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 11:56 AM 23/10/2013, you wrote:

Hi Tim,

Well after months reading on this topic, I've read and re-read posts 
on forums from Peggie Hall "the head queen"  (nice right?!). She is 
the author of a definitive book called "Get Rid of Boat Odors"  and 
her 2 top choices in Heads are the Lavac, which works on a vacuum 
created by closing the lid, and the Raritan PH-II The raritan PHc is 
the same bowl and pump but sits on a smaller pedestal.  She goes on 
to say that if you are mostly on the boat with the same crew the 
Lavac is best.. She says it takes some learning to use properly and 
that may be problematic if you have changing crew or day sailing 
guests.  She said in that regard the PH-II/ PHC is the best 
choice.  At least that is how I interpreted all that I've 
read.  Very simple design and works best and more reliably that any other head.


So, we sail with guest maybe 40% of the time and I decided the 
Raritan was the way to go.


Danny


-- Original Message --
From: Tim Goodyear 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 07:09:26 -0400

Danny, what are the reasons you are going with the Raritan PHC 
(there are many options out there)? I am done with replacing the 
pump annually on the Wilcox Crittenden / Thetford Headmate head in 
Mojito and was looking at a replacement. Now, if only the pumps were 
interchangeable between models...

Thanks,
Tim

On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 11:27 AM, 
djhaug...@juno.com 
<djhaug...@juno.com> wrote:

Okay guys,
I'm planning a new waste system. I'm going with the Raritan PHC head 
and a new holding tank. I currently have a very old Jabsco head and 
a bladder holding tank. I really don't like the bladder. It has 
worked okay but, one day it will fail and it will be disgusting! I 
just want rid of it...

...

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA

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Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

[Russ & Melody]

Hi Dennis,

What's yer rate?

A ship's husband I met who worked out of Friday 
Harbour, Wa. would charge double his regular rate 
for work on the toilet system and time plus one 
half that rate for weekend calls (when owners & 
guests were most likely to screw it up).


He said the owners grumbled about the increased 
cost but he still got the work. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1




At 07:40 PM 23/10/2013, you wrote:
First, I've had both the Raritan PH-II and 
Jabsco heads. My opinion is the Raritan is 
better. I have Jabsco now and it works well also.


Now the real reason for the post. I work on 
heads. People pay me nice $$ to fix them. My 
opinion - never rebuild a head pump. Instead 
install a new pump assembly. Cost differential 
isn't that great and you'll eliminate ALL sources of problems with the pump.


Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 23, 2013, at 1:28 PM, Tim Goodyear 
<timg...@gmail.com> wrote:


Gary, thanks, yes, that has worked well for me 
on pumping issues.  I have two other current issues that I'm working on:
   * The last couple of times I've arrived at 
the boat there has been 'stuff' in the bowl; 
the joker valve is not doing it's job and is 
allowing what's left in the discharge hose to 
flow slowly back.  I left the system soaking 
in white wine vinegar last night and will see 
if that helps.  The head only receives 
recycled beer and rum, the joker valve was 
replaced last year, but still seems to need 
maintenance much more regularly than I want to 
get my hands into that area.  The last two 
occasions I've used the rebuild kit I have 
cracked the plastic housing for the flush 
water inlet / outlet, meaning more, hard-to-get-hold-of parts.
   * The pump handle is broken off - we were 
racing two weeks ago and a novice tried to use 
the head while we were going upwind in > 20 
knots...  The pump and he suffered 
bruising.  This means I need to source parts 
for the pump anyway this winter, and given my 
satisfaction level overall caused me to think of something better.

Thanks,

Tim

On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 8:24 AM, Gary Nylander 
<gnylan...@atlanticbb.net> wrote:
Before you replace another pump, try headlube - 
available at West Marine (and others). I was 
about to venture into another replacement 
project when this was suggested. My pump wasn't 
drawing water from the thru hull, but was 
pumping OK into the holding tank. I put the 
lube in, and after about 15 pumps, here came the water! No project.


Gary
- Original Message -
From: Tim Goodyear
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 7:09 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

Danny, what are the reasons you are going with 
the Raritan PHC (there are many options out 
there)?  I am done with replacing the pump 
annually on the Wilcox Crittenden / Thetford 
Headmate head in Mojito and was looking at a 
replacement.  Now, if only the pumps were interchangeable between models...


Thanks,

Tim

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Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

[Tim Goodyear]

Danny, what are the reasons you are going with the Raritan PHC (there are
many options out there)?  I am done with replacing the pump annually on the
Wilcox Crittenden / Thetford Headmate head in Mojito and was looking at a
replacement.  Now, if only the pumps were interchangeable between models...

Thanks,

Tim

On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 11:27 AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:

> Okay guys,
>
> I'm planning a new waste system.  I'm going with the Raritan PHC head and
> a new holding tank.  I currently have a very old Jabsco head and a bladder
> holding tank.  I really don't like the bladder.  It has worked okay but,
> one day it will fail and it will be disgusting!  I just want rid of it...
>
> ...
>


>
> Danny
> Lolita
> 1973 Viking 33
> Westport Point, MA
>
> ___
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>
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Re: Stus-List keel swap

[Curtis]

Thats crazy,  I spent $2500.00 bucks for my boat,  it came with
7 sails, an Optimist sailing dinghy, a #35 Plow anchor, St4000 auto
pilot, st50, tridata, st50, wind, speed, depth, also had a Garmin 215
plotter. Vhf radio. in fact, I have installed a new  yanmay 2GMF
engine and Sailed the boat for over 2 years now and all my expences
are under $6,000 dollars??
I want some of your money.
"Your boat does" have 4 foot on mine in lingth.

On 10/22/13, Chuck S  wrote:
> I doubt anyone else would trade you a keel. Possible, but not very likely.
> I changed our keel, Mars Metals took my old keel in trade and saved me
> thousands of dollars. They cast me a new beautiful one .
> The total cost including pulling mast, labor to remove old keel, ship to
> Canada, cast new keel ship back, and install, yard bills was around $16K in
> 2007.
>
> Mars Metals http://marskeel.com
> Bill Souter, 1-800-381-5335
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
> - Original Message -
> From: "niall buckley" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 9:31:40 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Halyards
>
>
> Hello Harold,
>
>
> I'm new to this Group so, don't know the format exactly.
> I changed to high tech lines on all my halyards over the past few years.
> My perceived advantages are as follows: less weight aloft (considerable,
> maybe equivalent to a man on the rail),
> much nicer on the hands if you need to handle the line e.g. "jumping" the
> halyard and low to zero stretch/creep. Disadvantage is cost.
> I have a question for you. I have a C&C 41 1988 Wing Keel; I'd like to find
> a deep keel someone might have for sale...
> could you put out the word for me. I haven't figured out how to access the
> classified section as yet.
> Cheers,
> Niall
>
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 22, 2013 at 3:27 PM, patricia barkley-higginbottom <
> patrici...@cogeco.ca > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Have wire to rope halyards exclusively on my 35-3 1986 . What are the
> disadvantages, since it seems most people , when they have to , change to
> rope of various types. One I can think of is end to ending when there is
> wear, and also less weight aloft, although how much difference that makes on
> a relatively heavy boat I dont know. I club race white sail and will have to
> change fairly soon because of wear at the jammers and beginnings of fraying
> of the wire. I would tend to go with wire to rope again partly because of
> the type of sheaves presently employed so need a strong reason to change.
> While I am on the site, anyone with a 35-3 full keel who races against a
> 35-3 with keel centreboard have any idea of performance comparisons between
> them. My boat is a centre board version. We do well enough, feel that we do
> not point as high as other boats in our PHRF fleet especially in heavier
> air, no other 35-3s in that fleet, but we run well and often overhaul boats
> that may have got to the windward mark before us.
> Harold
> Celtic Spirit
> 35-3 1986
>
>
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>
>
>
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should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat

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Re: Stus-List keel swap

[Rich Knowles]

Curtis! Be nice. We all have different amounts of money available. It's our 
sport, our fun and our decision how to spend it or not. 

Rich

> On Oct 23, 2013, at 8:26, Curtis  wrote:
> 
> Thats crazy,  I spent $2500.00 bucks for my boat,  it came with
> 7 sails, an Optimist sailing dinghy, a #35 Plow anchor, St4000 auto
> pilot, st50, tridata, st50, wind, speed, depth, also had a Garmin 215
> plotter. Vhf radio. in fact, I have installed a new  yanmay 2GMF
> engine and Sailed the boat for over 2 years now and all my expences
> are under $6,000 dollars??
> I want some of your money.
> "Your boat does" have 4 foot on mine in lingth.
> 
>> On 10/22/13, Chuck S  wrote:
>> I doubt anyone else would trade you a keel. Possible, but not very likely.
>> I changed our keel, Mars Metals took my old keel in trade and saved me
>> thousands of dollars. They cast me a new beautiful one .
>> The total cost including pulling mast, labor to remove old keel, ship to
>> Canada, cast new keel ship back, and install, yard bills was around $16K in
>> 2007.
>> 
>> Mars Metals http://marskeel.com
>> Bill Souter, 1-800-381-5335
>> 
>> 
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C&C 34R
>> Atlantic City, NJ
>> - Original Message -
>> From: "niall buckley" 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 9:31:40 PM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Halyards
>> 
>> 
>> Hello Harold,
>> 
>> 
>> I'm new to this Group so, don't know the format exactly.
>> I changed to high tech lines on all my halyards over the past few years.
>> My perceived advantages are as follows: less weight aloft (considerable,
>> maybe equivalent to a man on the rail),
>> much nicer on the hands if you need to handle the line e.g. "jumping" the
>> halyard and low to zero stretch/creep. Disadvantage is cost.
>> I have a question for you. I have a C&C 41 1988 Wing Keel; I'd like to find
>> a deep keel someone might have for sale...
>> could you put out the word for me. I haven't figured out how to access the
>> classified section as yet.
>> Cheers,
>> Niall
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Tue, Oct 22, 2013 at 3:27 PM, patricia barkley-higginbottom <
>> patrici...@cogeco.ca > wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Have wire to rope halyards exclusively on my 35-3 1986 . What are the
>> disadvantages, since it seems most people , when they have to , change to
>> rope of various types. One I can think of is end to ending when there is
>> wear, and also less weight aloft, although how much difference that makes on
>> a relatively heavy boat I dont know. I club race white sail and will have to
>> change fairly soon because of wear at the jammers and beginnings of fraying
>> of the wire. I would tend to go with wire to rope again partly because of
>> the type of sheaves presently employed so need a strong reason to change.
>> While I am on the site, anyone with a 35-3 full keel who races against a
>> 35-3 with keel centreboard have any idea of performance comparisons between
>> them. My boat is a centre board version. We do well enough, feel that we do
>> not point as high as other boats in our PHRF fleet especially in heavier
>> air, no other 35-3s in that fleet, but we run well and often overhaul boats
>> that may have got to the windward mark before us.
>> Harold
>> Celtic Spirit
>> 35-3 1986
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Stus-List Seawater pump parts

[Bill Connon]

Thanks to all,

Dennis
I'm sure that I found the proper pump on the Depco site.

Bruno
I'll call Diesel Bec today and see if they can get me the parts that I want.

Bill
Caprice 1

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Re: Stus-List keel swap

[Curtis]

I stand corrected... Its just so much money.


On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 7:37 AM, Rich Knowles  wrote:

> Curtis! Be nice. We all have different amounts of money available. It's
> our sport, our fun and our decision how to spend it or not.
>
> Rich
>
> > On Oct 23, 2013, at 8:26, Curtis  wrote:
> >
> > Thats crazy,  I spent $2500.00 bucks for my boat,  it came with
> > 7 sails, an Optimist sailing dinghy, a #35 Plow anchor, St4000 auto
> > pilot, st50, tridata, st50, wind, speed, depth, also had a Garmin 215
> > plotter. Vhf radio. in fact, I have installed a new  yanmay 2GMF
> > engine and Sailed the boat for over 2 years now and all my expences
> > are under $6,000 dollars??
> > I want some of your money.
> > "Your boat does" have 4 foot on mine in lingth.
> >
> >> On 10/22/13, Chuck S  wrote:
> >> I doubt anyone else would trade you a keel. Possible, but not very
> likely.
> >> I changed our keel, Mars Metals took my old keel in trade and saved me
> >> thousands of dollars. They cast me a new beautiful one .
> >> The total cost including pulling mast, labor to remove old keel, ship to
> >> Canada, cast new keel ship back, and install, yard bills was around
> $16K in
> >> 2007.
> >>
> >> Mars Metals http://marskeel.com
> >> Bill Souter, 1-800-381-5335
> >>
> >>
> >> Chuck
> >> Resolute
> >> 1990 C&C 34R
> >> Atlantic City, NJ
> >> - Original Message -
> >> From: "niall buckley" 
> >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> >> Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 9:31:40 PM
> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Halyards
> >>
> >>
> >> Hello Harold,
> >>
> >>
> >> I'm new to this Group so, don't know the format exactly.
> >> I changed to high tech lines on all my halyards over the past few years.
> >> My perceived advantages are as follows: less weight aloft (considerable,
> >> maybe equivalent to a man on the rail),
> >> much nicer on the hands if you need to handle the line e.g. "jumping"
> the
> >> halyard and low to zero stretch/creep. Disadvantage is cost.
> >> I have a question for you. I have a C&C 41 1988 Wing Keel; I'd like to
> find
> >> a deep keel someone might have for sale...
> >> could you put out the word for me. I haven't figured out how to access
> the
> >> classified section as yet.
> >> Cheers,
> >> Niall
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Tue, Oct 22, 2013 at 3:27 PM, patricia barkley-higginbottom <
> >> patrici...@cogeco.ca > wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Have wire to rope halyards exclusively on my 35-3 1986 . What are the
> >> disadvantages, since it seems most people , when they have to , change
> to
> >> rope of various types. One I can think of is end to ending when there is
> >> wear, and also less weight aloft, although how much difference that
> makes on
> >> a relatively heavy boat I dont know. I club race white sail and will
> have to
> >> change fairly soon because of wear at the jammers and beginnings of
> fraying
> >> of the wire. I would tend to go with wire to rope again partly because
> of
> >> the type of sheaves presently employed so need a strong reason to
> change.
> >> While I am on the site, anyone with a 35-3 full keel who races against a
> >> 35-3 with keel centreboard have any idea of performance comparisons
> between
> >> them. My boat is a centre board version. We do well enough, feel that
> we do
> >> not point as high as other boats in our PHRF fleet especially in heavier
> >> air, no other 35-3s in that fleet, but we run well and often overhaul
> boats
> >> that may have got to the windward mark before us.
> >> Harold
> >> Celtic Spirit
> >> 35-3 1986
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
> >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
> >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >>
> >
> >
> > --
> > “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
> > should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> >
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>



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should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
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Re: Stus-List keel swap

[Rich Knowles]

Yep. It can be. 

Rich

> On Oct 23, 2013, at 8:47, Curtis  wrote:
> 
> I stand corrected... Its just so much money. 
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 7:37 AM, Rich Knowles  wrote:
>> Curtis! Be nice. We all have different amounts of money available. It's our 
>> sport, our fun and our decision how to spend it or not.
>> 
>> Rich
>> 
>> > On Oct 23, 2013, at 8:26, Curtis  wrote:
>> >
>> > Thats crazy,  I spent $2500.00 bucks for my boat,  it came with
>> > 7 sails, an Optimist sailing dinghy, a #35 Plow anchor, St4000 auto
>> > pilot, st50, tridata, st50, wind, speed, depth, also had a Garmin 215
>> > plotter. Vhf radio. in fact, I have installed a new  yanmay 2GMF
>> > engine and Sailed the boat for over 2 years now and all my expences
>> > are under $6,000 dollars??
>> > I want some of your money.
>> > "Your boat does" have 4 foot on mine in lingth.
>> >
>> >> On 10/22/13, Chuck S  wrote:
>> >> I doubt anyone else would trade you a keel. Possible, but not very likely.
>> >> I changed our keel, Mars Metals took my old keel in trade and saved me
>> >> thousands of dollars. They cast me a new beautiful one .
>> >> The total cost including pulling mast, labor to remove old keel, ship to
>> >> Canada, cast new keel ship back, and install, yard bills was around $16K 
>> >> in
>> >> 2007.
>> >>
>> >> Mars Metals http://marskeel.com
>> >> Bill Souter, 1-800-381-5335
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Chuck
>> >> Resolute
>> >> 1990 C&C 34R
>> >> Atlantic City, NJ
>> >> - Original Message -
>> >> From: "niall buckley" 
>> >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> >> Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 9:31:40 PM
>> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Halyards
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Hello Harold,
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> I'm new to this Group so, don't know the format exactly.
>> >> I changed to high tech lines on all my halyards over the past few years.
>> >> My perceived advantages are as follows: less weight aloft (considerable,
>> >> maybe equivalent to a man on the rail),
>> >> much nicer on the hands if you need to handle the line e.g. "jumping" the
>> >> halyard and low to zero stretch/creep. Disadvantage is cost.
>> >> I have a question for you. I have a C&C 41 1988 Wing Keel; I'd like to 
>> >> find
>> >> a deep keel someone might have for sale...
>> >> could you put out the word for me. I haven't figured out how to access the
>> >> classified section as yet.
>> >> Cheers,
>> >> Niall
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> On Tue, Oct 22, 2013 at 3:27 PM, patricia barkley-higginbottom <
>> >> patrici...@cogeco.ca > wrote:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Have wire to rope halyards exclusively on my 35-3 1986 . What are the
>> >> disadvantages, since it seems most people , when they have to , change to
>> >> rope of various types. One I can think of is end to ending when there is
>> >> wear, and also less weight aloft, although how much difference that makes 
>> >> on
>> >> a relatively heavy boat I dont know. I club race white sail and will have 
>> >> to
>> >> change fairly soon because of wear at the jammers and beginnings of 
>> >> fraying
>> >> of the wire. I would tend to go with wire to rope again partly because of
>> >> the type of sheaves presently employed so need a strong reason to change.
>> >> While I am on the site, anyone with a 35-3 full keel who races against a
>> >> 35-3 with keel centreboard have any idea of performance comparisons 
>> >> between
>> >> them. My boat is a centre board version. We do well enough, feel that we 
>> >> do
>> >> not point as high as other boats in our PHRF fleet especially in heavier
>> >> air, no other 35-3s in that fleet, but we run well and often overhaul 
>> >> boats
>> >> that may have got to the windward mark before us.
>> >> Harold
>> >> Celtic Spirit
>> >> 35-3 1986
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> ___
>> >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> ___
>> >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
>> > should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>> >
>> > ___
>> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
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Re: Stus-List keel swap

[Derek Leck]

B - bust
O - out
A - another
T - thousand




: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :

Derek Leck  : :  Account Manager
METZGERS  : :  www.metzgers.com
419.861.8611 x4824  : :  fax: 419.861.3299
[http://www.metzgers.com/misc/EmailSig.jpg]

On Oct 23, 2013, at 7:51 AM, "Rich Knowles" 
mailto:r...@sailpower.ca>> wrote:

Yep. It can be.

Rich

On Oct 23, 2013, at 8:47, Curtis 
mailto:cpt.b...@gmail.com>> wrote:

I stand corrected... Its just so much money.


On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 7:37 AM, Rich Knowles 
mailto:r...@sailpower.ca>> wrote:
Curtis! Be nice. We all have different amounts of money available. It's our 
sport, our fun and our decision how to spend it or not.

Rich

> On Oct 23, 2013, at 8:26, Curtis 
> mailto:cpt.b...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> Thats crazy,  I spent $2500.00 bucks for my boat,  it came with
> 7 sails, an Optimist sailing dinghy, a #35 Plow anchor, St4000 auto
> pilot, st50, tridata, st50, wind, speed, depth, also had a Garmin 215
> plotter. Vhf radio. in fact, I have installed a new  yanmay 2GMF
> engine and Sailed the boat for over 2 years now and all my expences
> are under $6,000 dollars??
> I want some of your money.
> "Your boat does" have 4 foot on mine in lingth.
>
>> On 10/22/13, Chuck S mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>> 
>> wrote:
>> I doubt anyone else would trade you a keel. Possible, but not very likely.
>> I changed our keel, Mars Metals took my old keel in trade and saved me
>> thousands of dollars. They cast me a new beautiful one .
>> The total cost including pulling mast, labor to remove old keel, ship to
>> Canada, cast new keel ship back, and install, yard bills was around $16K in
>> 2007.
>>
>> Mars Metals http://marskeel.com
>> Bill Souter, 1-800-381-5335
>>
>>
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C&C 34R
>> Atlantic City, NJ
>> - Original Message -
>> From: "niall buckley" 
>> mailto:niall.j.buck...@gmail.com>>
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 9:31:40 PM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Halyards
>>
>>
>> Hello Harold,
>>
>>
>> I'm new to this Group so, don't know the format exactly.
>> I changed to high tech lines on all my halyards over the past few years.
>> My perceived advantages are as follows: less weight aloft (considerable,
>> maybe equivalent to a man on the rail),
>> much nicer on the hands if you need to handle the line e.g. "jumping" the
>> halyard and low to zero stretch/creep. Disadvantage is cost.
>> I have a question for you. I have a C&C 41 1988 Wing Keel; I'd like to find
>> a deep keel someone might have for sale...
>> could you put out the word for me. I haven't figured out how to access the
>> classified section as yet.
>> Cheers,
>> Niall
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 22, 2013 at 3:27 PM, patricia barkley-higginbottom <
>> patrici...@cogeco.ca > wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Have wire to rope halyards exclusively on my 35-3 1986 . What are the
>> disadvantages, since it seems most people , when they have to , change to
>> rope of various types. One I can think of is end to ending when there is
>> wear, and also less weight aloft, although how much difference that makes on
>> a relatively heavy boat I dont know. I club race white sail and will have to
>> change fairly soon because of wear at the jammers and beginnings of fraying
>> of the wire. I would tend to go with wire to rope again partly because of
>> the type of sheaves presently employed so need a strong reason to change.
>> While I am on the site, anyone with a 35-3 full keel who races against a
>> 35-3 with keel centreboard have any idea of performance comparisons between
>> them. My boat is a centre board version. We do well enough, feel that we do
>> not point as high as other boats in our PHRF fleet especially in heavier
>> air, no other 35-3s in that fleet, but we run well and often overhaul boats
>> that may have got to the windward mark before us.
>> Harold
>> Celtic Spirit
>> 35-3 1986
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>
>
> --
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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--
“Sailors, with their built in

Re: Stus-List Centerboard models

[Gary Nylander]

The national PHRF database shows a 35-3 with an average PHRF at 117 and the CB 
version at 129. You should be talking to your local PHRF gurus.

Gary Nylander
  - Original Message - 
  From: cenel...@aol.com 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 4:31 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Centerboard models


  I am a little surprised that the cb model has the same PHRF as non-cb. At 
least with my 90s era  keel/cb vs the fin keel, we rate a higher. Further, in a 
reasonable breeze (>6-8 knots), we point with
  all the go fast boats with the board down and good sails.

  Downwind, we hold our own in such breezes by raising the board and are seldom 
rolled.

  In light air, we suffer downwind dragging a keel/cb trunk about 12 inches 
thick thru the water! Upwind we also suffer, but the pain is less since at 
least we still point with the go fast boats (as we fall behind!).

  Charlie Nelson
  Water Phantom
  C&C 36 XL/kcb
  1995


  cenel...@aol.com

  -Original Message-
  From: Joel Aronson 
  To: cnc-list 
  Sent: Tue, Oct 22, 2013 3:13 pm
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Halyards


  Harold, 


  I switched to all rope (VPC) using the same sheaves with no issues over 2 
seasons.  If weight were an issue I would go with Dyneema with a cover for the 
clutch.


  The PHRF ratings are the same for the 2 models.  I've never sailed against a 
c/b model. (I need to race Chef Dave next year!) I would think that with the 
board down you would point well.  Maybe the main (like many of us) has lost its 
shape over the years?  


  Joel
  35/3 1983
  Annapolis



  On Tue, Oct 22, 2013 at 2:27 PM, patricia barkley-higginbottom 
 wrote:

Have wire to rope halyards exclusively on my 35-3 1986 . What are the 
disadvantages, since it seems most people , when they have to , change to rope 
of various types. One I can think of is end to ending when there is wear, and 
also less weight aloft, although how much difference that makes on a relatively 
heavy boat I dont know. I club race white sail and will have to change fairly 
soon because of wear at the jammers and beginnings of fraying of the wire. I 
would tend to go with wire to rope again partly because of the type of sheaves 
presently employed so need a strong reason to change.
While I am on the site, anyone with a 35-3 full keel who races against a 
35-3 with keel centreboard have any idea of performance comparisons between 
them. My boat is a centre board version. We do well enough, feel that we do not 
point as high as other boats in our PHRF fleet especially in heavier air, no 
other 35-3s in that fleet, but we run well and often overhaul boats that may 
have got to the windward mark before us.
Harold
Celtic Spirit
35-3 1986



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  -- 
  Joel 
  301 541 8551 
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--


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Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

[Gary Nylander]

Before you replace another pump, try headlube - available at West Marine (and 
others). I was about to venture into another replacement project when this was 
suggested. My pump wasn't drawing water from the thru hull, but was pumping OK 
into the holding tank. I put the lube in, and after about 15 pumps, here came 
the water! No project.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tim Goodyear 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 7:09 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.


  Danny, what are the reasons you are going with the Raritan PHC (there are 
many options out there)?  I am done with replacing the pump annually on the 
Wilcox Crittenden / Thetford Headmate head in Mojito and was looking at a 
replacement.  Now, if only the pumps were interchangeable between models...

  Thanks,

  Tim


  On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 11:27 AM, djhaug...@juno.com  
wrote:

Okay guys,

I'm planning a new waste system.  I'm going with the Raritan PHC head and a 
new holding tank.  I currently have a very old Jabsco head and a bladder 
holding tank.  I really don't like the bladder.  It has worked okay but, one 
day it will fail and it will be disgusting!  I just want rid of it...

...


Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA

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--


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Re: Stus-List Part numbers for 3GMF seawater pump

[Bill Coleman]

If you are talking about the front cover and it's seal, why not get a
Speedseal cover?  I ordered one several years ago, it got here from UK in a
week, works great.  Uses an O ring instead of a gasket, on and off in a
minute with no tools.
You could probably give dimensions and get the right one.


Bill Coleman
C&C 39 

>
>
Alan,
The closest looking picture that I've come up with for my pump is at:
http://www.pumpvendor.com/Yanmar_721575-42702.html
It's all very confusing when there is no name or number anywhere on the 
pump body.

Bill


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Re: Stus-List Centerboard models

[Joel Aronson]

Gary
What is the website?

On Tuesday, October 22, 2013, Gary Nylander wrote:

> **
> The national PHRF database shows a 35-3 with an average PHRF at 117 and
> the CB version at 129. You should be talking to your local PHRF gurus.
>
> Gary Nylander
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* cenel...@aol.com 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com  'cnc-list@cnc-list.com');>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 22, 2013 4:31 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Centerboard models
>
> I am a little surprised that the cb model has the same PHRF as non-cb. At
> least with my 90s era  keel/cb vs the fin keel, we rate a higher. Further,
> in a reasonable breeze (>6-8 knots), we point with
> all the go fast boats with the board down and good sails.
>
> Downwind, we hold our own in such breezes by raising the board and are
> seldom rolled.
>
> In light air, we suffer downwind dragging a keel/cb trunk about 12 inches
> thick thru the water! Upwind we also suffer, but the pain is less since at
> least we still point with the go fast boats (as we fall behind!).
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> C&C 36 XL/kcb
> 1995
>
>
>  cenel...@aol.com 
>  -Original Message-
> From: Joel Aronson  'joel.aron...@gmail.com');>>
> To: cnc-list  'cnc-list@cnc-list.com');>>
> Sent: Tue, Oct 22, 2013 3:13 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Halyards
>
>  Harold,
>
> I switched to all rope (VPC) using the same sheaves with no issues over 2
> seasons.  If weight were an issue I would go with Dyneema with a cover for
> the clutch.
>
> The PHRF ratings are the same for the 2 models.  I've never sailed against
> a c/b model. (I need to race Chef Dave next year!) I would think that with
> the board down you would point well.  Maybe the main (like many of us) has
> lost its shape over the years?
>
> Joel
> 35/3 1983
> Annapolis
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 22, 2013 at 2:27 PM, patricia barkley-higginbottom <
> patrici...@cogeco.ca  'patrici...@cogeco.ca');>>wrote:
>
>>   Have wire to rope halyards exclusively on my 35-3 1986 . What are the
>> disadvantages, since it seems most people , when they have to , change to
>> rope of various types. One I can think of is end to ending when there is
>> wear, and also less weight aloft, although how much difference that makes
>> on a relatively heavy boat I dont know. I club race white sail and will
>> have to change fairly soon because of wear at the jammers and beginnings of
>> fraying of the wire. I would tend to go with wire to rope again partly
>> because of the type of sheaves presently employed so need a strong reason
>> to change.
>> While I am on the site, anyone with a 35-3 full keel who races against a
>> 35-3 with keel centreboard have any idea of performance comparisons between
>> them. My boat is a centre board version. We do well enough, feel that we do
>> not point as high as other boats in our PHRF fleet especially in heavier
>> air, no other 35-3s in that fleet, but we run well and often overhaul boats
>> that may have got to the windward mark before us.
>> Harold
>> Celtic Spirit
>> 35-3 1986
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
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>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
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>
>

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Re: Stus-List Centerboard models

[Gary Nylander]

//offshore.ussailing.org - start there and you will get something about PHRF 
website with high, low and median ratings. 

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Joel Aronson 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 8:46 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Centerboard models


  Gary
  What is the website?

  On Tuesday, October 22, 2013, Gary Nylander wrote:

The national PHRF database shows a 35-3 with an average PHRF at 117 and the 
CB version at 129. You should be talking to your local PHRF gurus.

Gary Nylander
  - Original Message - 
  From: cenel...@aol.com 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 4:31 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Centerboard models


  I am a little surprised that the cb model has the same PHRF as non-cb. At 
least with my 90s era  keel/cb vs the fin keel, we rate a higher. Further, in a 
reasonable breeze (>6-8 knots), we point with
  all the go fast boats with the board down and good sails.

  Downwind, we hold our own in such breezes by raising the board and are 
seldom rolled.

  In light air, we suffer downwind dragging a keel/cb trunk about 12 inches 
thick thru the water! Upwind we also suffer, but the pain is less since at 
least we still point with the go fast boats (as we fall behind!).

  Charlie Nelson
  Water Phantom
  C&C 36 XL/kcb
  1995


  cenel...@aol.com

  -Original Message-
  From: Joel Aronson 
  To: cnc-list 
  Sent: Tue, Oct 22, 2013 3:13 pm
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Halyards


  Harold, 


  I switched to all rope (VPC) using the same sheaves with no issues over 2 
seasons.  If weight were an issue I would go with Dyneema with a cover for the 
clutch.


  The PHRF ratings are the same for the 2 models.  I've never sailed 
against a c/b model. (I need to race Chef Dave next year!) I would think that 
with the board down you would point well.  Maybe the main (like many of us) has 
lost its shape over the years?  


  Joel
  35/3 1983
  Annapolis



  On Tue, Oct 22, 2013 at 2:27 PM, patricia barkley-higginbottom 
 wrote:

Have wire to rope halyards exclusively on my 35-3 1986 . What are the 
disadvantages, since it seems most people , when they have to , change to rope 
of various types. One I can think of is end to ending when there is wear, and 
also less weight aloft, although how much difference that makes on a relatively 
heavy boat I dont know. I club race white sail and will have to change fairly 
soon because of wear at the jammers and beginnings of fraying of the wire. I 
would tend to go with wire to rope again partly because of the type of sheaves 
presently employed so need a strong reason to change.
While I am on the site, anyone with a 35-3 full keel who races against 
a 35-3 with keel centreboard have any idea of performance comparisons between 
them. My boat is a centre board version. We do well enough, feel that we do not 
point as high as other boats in our PHRF fleet especially in heavier air, no 
other 35-3s in that fleet, but we run well and often overhaul boats that may 
have got to the windward mark before us.
Harold
Celtic Spirit
35-3 1986



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  -- 
  Joel 
  301 541 8551



--


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Re: Stus-List keel swap

[Della Barba, Joe]

Ask my wife about so much money!
$2500 doesn't cover our SLIP and then there is the actual boat to pay for.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 7:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List keel swap

I stand corrected... Its just so much money.

On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 7:37 AM, Rich Knowles 
mailto:r...@sailpower.ca>> wrote:
Curtis! Be nice. We all have different amounts of money available. It's our 
sport, our fun and our decision how to spend it or not.

Rich

> On Oct 23, 2013, at 8:26, Curtis 
> mailto:cpt.b...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> Thats crazy,  I spent $2500.00 bucks for my boat,  it came with
> 7 sails, an Optimist sailing dinghy, a #35 Plow anchor, St4000 auto
> pilot, st50, tridata, st50, wind, speed, depth, also had a Garmin 215
> plotter. Vhf radio. in fact, I have installed a new  yanmay 2GMF
> engine and Sailed the boat for over 2 years now and all my expences
> are under $6,000 dollars??
> I want some of your money.
> "Your boat does" have 4 foot on mine in lingth.
>
>> On 10/22/13, Chuck S mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>> 
>> wrote:
>> I doubt anyone else would trade you a keel. Possible, but not very likely.
>> I changed our keel, Mars Metals took my old keel in trade and saved me
>> thousands of dollars. They cast me a new beautiful one .
>> The total cost including pulling mast, labor to remove old keel, ship to
>> Canada, cast new keel ship back, and install, yard bills was around $16K in
>> 2007.
>>
>> Mars Metals http://marskeel.com
>> Bill Souter, 1-800-381-5335
>>
>>
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C&C 34R
>> Atlantic City, NJ
>> - Original Message -
>> From: "niall buckley" 
>> mailto:niall.j.buck...@gmail.com>>
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 9:31:40 PM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Halyards
>>
>>
>> Hello Harold,
>>
>>
>> I'm new to this Group so, don't know the format exactly.
>> I changed to high tech lines on all my halyards over the past few years.
>> My perceived advantages are as follows: less weight aloft (considerable,
>> maybe equivalent to a man on the rail),
>> much nicer on the hands if you need to handle the line e.g. "jumping" the
>> halyard and low to zero stretch/creep. Disadvantage is cost.
>> I have a question for you. I have a C&C 41 1988 Wing Keel; I'd like to find
>> a deep keel someone might have for sale...
>> could you put out the word for me. I haven't figured out how to access the
>> classified section as yet.
>> Cheers,
>> Niall
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 22, 2013 at 3:27 PM, patricia barkley-higginbottom <
>> patrici...@cogeco.ca > wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Have wire to rope halyards exclusively on my 35-3 1986 . What are the
>> disadvantages, since it seems most people , when they have to , change to
>> rope of various types. One I can think of is end to ending when there is
>> wear, and also less weight aloft, although how much difference that makes on
>> a relatively heavy boat I dont know. I club race white sail and will have to
>> change fairly soon because of wear at the jammers and beginnings of fraying
>> of the wire. I would tend to go with wire to rope again partly because of
>> the type of sheaves presently employed so need a strong reason to change.
>> While I am on the site, anyone with a 35-3 full keel who races against a
>> 35-3 with keel centreboard have any idea of performance comparisons between
>> them. My boat is a centre board version. We do well enough, feel that we do
>> not point as high as other boats in our PHRF fleet especially in heavier
>> air, no other 35-3s in that fleet, but we run well and often overhaul boats
>> that may have got to the windward mark before us.
>> Harold
>> Celtic Spirit
>> 35-3 1986
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>
>
> --
> "Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
> should really be running the world." - Nicholas Monsarrat
>
> ___
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"Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
really be running the world." - Nicholas Monsarrat
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Stus-List keel swap

[Robert Abbott]

Curtis:

If I understand your numbers correctly, "all my expenses are under 
$6,000".so if I might ask, where did you get a new Yanmar 2GMF 
engine for $3,500?



Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2013/10/23 8:26 AM, Curtis wrote:

Thats crazy,  I spent $2500.00 bucks for my boat,  it came with
7 sails, an Optimist sailing dinghy, a #35 Plow anchor, St4000 auto
pilot, st50, tridata, st50, wind, speed, depth, also had a Garmin 215
plotter. Vhf radio. in fact, I have installed a new  yanmay 2GMF
engine and Sailed the boat for over 2 years now and all my expences
are under $6,000 dollars??
I want some of your money.
"Your boat does" have 4 foot on mine in lingth.

On 10/22/13, Chuck S  wrote:

I doubt anyone else would trade you a keel. Possible, but not very likely.
I changed our keel, Mars Metals took my old keel in trade and saved me
thousands of dollars. They cast me a new beautiful one .
The total cost including pulling mast, labor to remove old keel, ship to
Canada, cast new keel ship back, and install, yard bills was around $16K in
2007.

Mars Metals http://marskeel.com
Bill Souter, 1-800-381-5335


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
- Original Message -
From: "niall buckley" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 9:31:40 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Halyards


Hello Harold,


I'm new to this Group so, don't know the format exactly.
I changed to high tech lines on all my halyards over the past few years.
My perceived advantages are as follows: less weight aloft (considerable,
maybe equivalent to a man on the rail),
much nicer on the hands if you need to handle the line e.g. "jumping" the
halyard and low to zero stretch/creep. Disadvantage is cost.
I have a question for you. I have a C&C 41 1988 Wing Keel; I'd like to find
a deep keel someone might have for sale...
could you put out the word for me. I haven't figured out how to access the
classified section as yet.
Cheers,
Niall



On Tue, Oct 22, 2013 at 3:27 PM, patricia barkley-higginbottom <
patrici...@cogeco.ca > wrote:






Have wire to rope halyards exclusively on my 35-3 1986 . What are the
disadvantages, since it seems most people , when they have to , change to
rope of various types. One I can think of is end to ending when there is
wear, and also less weight aloft, although how much difference that makes on
a relatively heavy boat I dont know. I club race white sail and will have to
change fairly soon because of wear at the jammers and beginnings of fraying
of the wire. I would tend to go with wire to rope again partly because of
the type of sheaves presently employed so need a strong reason to change.
While I am on the site, anyone with a 35-3 full keel who races against a
35-3 with keel centreboard have any idea of performance comparisons between
them. My boat is a centre board version. We do well enough, feel that we do
not point as high as other boats in our PHRF fleet especially in heavier
air, no other 35-3s in that fleet, but we run well and often overhaul boats
that may have got to the windward mark before us.
Harold
Celtic Spirit
35-3 1986


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Re: Stus-List keel swap

[Frederick G Street]

Or,

B - broken
O - or
A - about
T - to

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Oct 23, 2013, at 7:06 AM, Derek Leck  wrote:

> B - bust
> O - out
> A - another
> T - thousand

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Re: Stus-List keel swap

[Rich Knowles]

B - best
O - of
A - all
T - things to do. 

Rich

> On Oct 23, 2013, at 11:10, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> 
> Or,
> 
> B - broken
> O - or
> A - about
> T - to
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Oct 23, 2013, at 7:06 AM, Derek Leck  wrote:
>> 
>> B - bust
>> O - out
>> A - another
>> T - thousand
> 
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Re: Stus-List Booze on Board?

[Colin Kilgour]

I'm late to this thread but will chime in anyway.

But first a couple clarifications -

1. Booze doesn't get any better once it's in the bottle.  It's not like
wine.  A 12 year old scotch that's been on board for 6 years is still a 12
year old scotch.  (But it doesn't get worse, either!)

2. The Pusser's you buy from the BVI has very little to do with the Royal
Navy.  The guy who started it was simply an astute marketer who bought out
the long dormant Pusser's name from the Royal Navy.

We tend to keep a selection of rums on board - some for sipping, some for
mixing, and some for Ti Punch (a favourite in the French Islands)

After that - there's a modest selection of gin, vodka, and rye

And wine and beer are typically brought on board as needed and consumed
fairly soon afterwards.  Our boat's in the tropics, which is not a great
climate for storing wine and beer - so best just to buy enough for your
immediate need.

Cheers,
Colin



On Fri, Oct 18, 2013 at 8:31 PM, Wally Bryant  wrote:

> PS.
>
> In the end, it's not the years in your life that count.
> It's the life in your years.
>
> (and/or)
>
> The best thing about the future is that it comes one day at a time.
>
>  Abraham Lincoln
>
> 
> >
>
>
> I wrote:
>
>> I try to keep tequila on board, but it's very difficult. 
>>
>
>
>
> __**_
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Stus-List 2014 C&C Northeast Rendezvous

[Robert Gallagher]

The 2014 Northeast was a great success.  Many of you posted words of
gratitude directed at me over the last few weeks.  For that I thank you
sincerely, however, I take little credit.

Without YOU showing up and participating it would have been, well, me
standing alone at the end of the dock drinking Old Yankee Ale directly from
a tap for three days...

The people to thank are Dave Rich, Andrew Burton, Rob Ball, Stu, C&C
Yachts, Good Old Boat Magazine, Mohegan Sun, and some people I'm sure I
forgot, but most of all the thanks go to YOU for showing up.

Please respond and share the survey link I am attaching.

http://fluidsurveys.com/surveys/cnc-2013-rendezvous/2014-northeast-c-c-rendezvous/?_cb=9vsXeSCgbX

Thanks again and again,

Rob Gallagher
88 30 MKII
HANUMAN
trys...@gmail.com

PS I'm still peeved at all of you for not finishing the keg.
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Re: Stus-List 2014 C&C Northeast Rendezvous

[Frederick G Street]

Wow, you guys are even earlier than the retailers putting up Christmas 
decorations in September…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Oct 23, 2013, at 10:28 AM, Robert Gallagher  wrote:

> The 2014 Northeast was a great success.

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Stus-List mounting sprit on the deck

[Tom Buscaglia]

At the C&C rendezvous on Thetis Island in BC some of us were 
discussing this with a fellow fro UK sails.  Options I am considering 
are having a SS extension to my bow roller to extend a foot or two 
off the bow for the asym.  Some thought it also advisable to have a 
short extension on the masthead to extend the halyard out about 6-8" 
as a permanent mount to allow for the use of furling on the asym 
without any potential fouling of the stays..


The strength of the bow roller is a concern.  But I suspect it is 
pretty solid.


The spar options looks interesting as well.

I'd love to have the thoughts from our crack team of experts in this idea...

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

At 05:46 AM 10/23/2013, you wrote:

--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2013 22:05:54 -0400
From: "j...@svpaws.net" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List mounting sprit on the deck
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

This will be an interesting thread.  The tack point is always a 
marvel of boatyard engineering so I can't wait to get some ideas.


John


Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 22, 2013, at 8:36 PM, "Pete Shelquist" 
 wrote:

>
> I?m exploring the idea of mounting a sprit on my foredeck for 
flying an asym.   Anyone been down that road?  One major concern I 
have is making sure the deck is strong enough for the load.

>
> Using this as a source of information:
> http://fortecarbon.com/marine/bow-poles-sprits/
>
>
> Thanks,
> Pete
> Class of 37
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 2014 C&C Northeast Rendezvous

[David Risch]

If you have ever planned one of these things its never early enough...at least 
if you want to do it right!

1981 40-2
  David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 cell

-Original Message-
From: Frederick G Street 
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 16:10:26 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2014 C&C Northeast Rendezvous

Wow, you guys are even earlier than the retailers putting up Christmas 
decorations in September.   :^)

 

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^( 


On Oct 23, 2013, at 10:28 AM, Robert Gallagher mailto:trys...@gmail.com> > wrote:
The 2014 Northeast was a great success.

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Re: Stus-List mounting sprit on the deck

[Hoyt, Mike]

Tom
 
A friend did this on his Montvideo 43 complete with the furling asym.
We raced last year to Bermuda with that.  Contact me off list and I can
share his contact information.  I am certain he would love to share all
the details of his installation
 
Mike



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 1:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List mounting sprit on the deck


At the C&C rendezvous on Thetis Island in BC some of us were discussing
this with a fellow fro UK sails.  Options I am considering are having a
SS extension to my bow roller to extend a foot or two off the bow for
the asym.  Some thought it also advisable to have a short extension on
the masthead to extend the halyard out about 6-8" as a permanent mount
to allow for the use of furling on the asym without any potential
fouling of the stays..

The strength of the bow roller is a concern.  But I suspect it is pretty
solid.  

The spar options looks interesting as well.

I'd love to have the thoughts from our crack team of experts in this
idea...

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

 At 05:46 AM 10/23/2013, you wrote:



--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2013 22:05:54 -0400
From: "j...@svpaws.net" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List mounting sprit on the deck
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

This will be an interesting thread.  The tack point is always a
marvel of boatyard engineering so I can't wait to get some ideas.

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 22, 2013, at 8:36 PM, "Pete Shelquist"
 wrote:
> 
> I?m exploring the idea of mounting a sprit on my foredeck for
flying an asym.   Anyone been down that road?  One major concern I have
is making sure the deck is strong enough for the load.
>  
> Using this as a source of information:
> http://fortecarbon.com/marine/bow-poles-sprits/
>  
>  
> Thanks,
> Pete
> Class of 37
>  
>  

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Stus-List 3gmf seawater pump

[Kim Brown]

Bill
This should get you headed in the right direction.
http://marinedieselparts.com/store/yanmar_3gm30_32_cooling_sea_water_pump.ht
m

Though of course Yanmar likes to change parts numbers every now and then

Kim Brown
Trust Me!!! 35-3


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Re: Stus-List Part numbers for 3GMF seawater pump

[sam.c.salter]

Bill,

I have a 2GM20F but most of the quoted part numbers so far match my pump too.

I also have a complete parts book with part #’s and pictures!

Not sure if it helps, but my part #’s are:

Complete pump assy. 121575-42000

Gasket 124223-42110

Impeller 124223-42091

Impeller cam 124323-42100


If my pump part# is the same as yours, I suspect the other #’s are good too!






sam :-)


C&C 26 Liquorice

Ghost Lake  Alberta





From: Bruno Lachance
Sent: ‎Tuesday‎, ‎October‎ ‎22‎, ‎2013 ‎9‎:‎20‎ ‎PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com




Bill,

Call Diesel Bec in Montréal. They have the best tech service and inventory.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine
C&C 33 mkII

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2013-10-22 à 14:48, "Bill Connon"  a écrit :
> 
> Group,
> 
> On haulout this year I noticed water drops from the seawater pump. I changed 
> the bearings and seal and afterwards the pump would no longer self prime. I 
> changed the impeller and was able to pump water using a 600 RPM half inch 
> drill but the boat motor would not self prime and pump anti-freeze through 
> the system.
> I want to buy a new cover, gasket and cam but can't come up with the proper 
> part numbers. A call to the nearest Yanmar dealer did not help but I assume 
> that it is a Johnson pump ( from what I found on the web ) and it was using a 
> Johnson 827 impeller.
> The motor is a 3GMF from 1985and the impeller is 2" OD x 7/8" wide and has a 
> 1/2" bore with a keyway.
> All help with getting the proper part numbers would be appreciated.
> 
> Bill
> Caprice 1
> 1978 C&C 36
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII

[Petar Horvatic]

Does anyone have pics or advice on how best to install a garboard drain
plug.

Shallow bildge and external lead keel make it pretty difficult to have
something that is flush on the outside yet encompass the lowest point in the
bildge to allow water to drain.

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII

[Hoyt, Mike]

Peter
 
I installed one from the inside on my boat.  It is a J/27 which has a
very shallow bilge and lead keel.  It is undetectable from the outside.
 
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt/Projects/Phase2/garboard_drain.htm
 
Mike
Nut Case
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar
Horvatic
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 3:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII



Does anyone have pics or advice on how best to install a garboard drain
plug.

Shallow bildge and external lead keel make it pretty difficult to have
something that is flush on the outside yet encompass the lowest point in
the bildge to allow water to drain.

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII

[Joel Aronson]

mine with as installed from the outside.  Not smooth, but not a big deal.
 Much lower than if it were installed from inside.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 2:16 PM, Petar Horvatic  wrote:

> Does anyone have pics or advice on how best to install a garboard drain
> plug.
>
> Shallow bildge and external lead keel make it pretty difficult to have
> something that is flush on the outside yet encompass the lowest point in
> the bildge to allow water to drain.
>
> ** **
>
> Petar Horvatic
>
> Sundowner
>
> 76 C&C 38MkII
>
> Newport, RI
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ___
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


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Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

[Tim Goodyear]

Gary, thanks, yes, that has worked well for me on pumping issues.  I have
two other current issues that I'm working on:

   - The last couple of times I've arrived at the boat there has been
   'stuff' in the bowl; the joker valve is not doing it's job and is allowing
   what's left in the discharge hose to flow slowly back.  I left the system
   soaking in white wine vinegar last night and will see if that helps.  The
   head only receives recycled beer and rum, the joker valve was replaced last
   year, but still seems to need maintenance much more regularly than I want
   to get my hands into that area.  The last two occasions I've used the
   rebuild kit I have cracked the plastic housing for the flush water inlet /
   outlet, meaning more, hard-to-get-hold-of parts.
   - The pump handle is broken off - we were racing two weeks ago and a
   novice tried to use the head while we were going upwind in > 20 knots...
   The pump and he suffered bruising.  This means I need to source parts for
   the pump anyway this winter, and given my satisfaction level overall caused
   me to think of something better.

Thanks,

Tim

On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 8:24 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:

> **
> Before you replace another pump, try headlube - available at West Marine
> (and others). I was about to venture into another replacement project when
> this was suggested. My pump wasn't drawing water from the thru hull, but
> was pumping OK into the holding tank. I put the lube in, and after about 15
> pumps, here came the water! No project.
>
> Gary
>
>  - Original Message -
> *From:* Tim Goodyear 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 23, 2013 7:09 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.
>
>  Danny, what are the reasons you are going with the Raritan PHC (there
> are many options out there)?  I am done with replacing the pump annually on
> the Wilcox Crittenden / Thetford Headmate head in Mojito and was looking at
> a replacement.  Now, if only the pumps were interchangeable between
> models...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
>
>
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Re: Stus-List mounting sprit on the deck

[Joel Aronson]

Tom,

I use a furler attached to the bowstem without a pole or mast extension
without issues.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 12:27 PM, Tom Buscaglia  wrote:

>  At the C&C rendezvous on Thetis Island in BC some of us were discussing
> this with a fellow fro UK sails.  Options I am considering are having a SS
> extension to my bow roller to extend a foot or two off the bow for the
> asym.  Some thought it also advisable to have a short extension on the
> masthead to extend the halyard out about 6-8" as a permanent mount to allow
> for the use of furling on the asym without any potential fouling of the
> stays..
>
> The strength of the bow roller is a concern.  But I suspect it is pretty
> solid.
>
> The spar options looks interesting as well.
>
> I'd love to have the thoughts from our crack team of experts in this
> idea...
>
> Tom B
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
> At 05:46 AM 10/23/2013, you wrote:
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2013 22:05:54 -0400
> From: "j...@svpaws.net" 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mounting sprit on the deck
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> This will be an interesting thread.  The tack point is always a marvel of
> boatyard engineering so I can't wait to get some ideas.
>
> John
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Oct 22, 2013, at 8:36 PM, "Pete Shelquist" <
> pete.shelqu...@comcast.net> wrote:
> >
> > I?m exploring the idea of mounting a sprit on my foredeck for flying an
> asym.   Anyone been down that road?  One major concern I have is making
> sure the deck is strong enough for the load.
> >
> > Using this as a source of information:
> > http://fortecarbon.com/marine/bow-poles-sprits/
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Pete
> > Class of 37
> >
> >
>
>
> ___
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>
>


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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII

[Petar Horvatic]

When you say installed, you mean drilled.

 

So would you drill vertically down in the bildge, then horizontally from
outside so the two holes meet, then oversize the outside to accommodate the
plug housing?

Drain plug housing I am looking at has four retaining bolt holes.  Seems not
a good idea to put self tapping screws there, so that means you need to
through-bolt. And if that's so, how do you put washers and nuts on the
inside?  

 

Even if I didn't drill vertically down it seems that you can't encompass
lowest point in the bildge, have horizontal drain plug and through-bolt all
four retaining bolts.So What gives?

 

These pics are pretty good, but it looks like he just put self tapping
bronze screws.

http://dan.pfeiffer.net/10m/garboard_drain.htm

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 2:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII

 

mine with as installed from the outside.  Not smooth, but not a big deal.
Much lower than if it were installed from inside.

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 2:16 PM, Petar Horvatic  wrote:

Does anyone have pics or advice on how best to install a garboard drain
plug.

Shallow bildge and external lead keel make it pretty difficult to have
something that is flush on the outside yet encompass the lowest point in the
bildge to allow water to drain.

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 


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-- 
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301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List keel swap

[Brent Driedger]

How we spend our money: the maintenance on the Maltese falcon for a year is 
about the same as my net worth. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 23, 2013, at 9:14 AM, Rich Knowles  wrote:
> 
> B - best
> O - of
> A - all
> T - things to do. 
> 
> Rich
> 
>> On Oct 23, 2013, at 11:10, Frederick G Street  wrote:
>> 
>> Or,
>> 
>> B - broken
>> O - or
>> A - about
>> T - to
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>> 
>>> On Oct 23, 2013, at 7:06 AM, Derek Leck  wrote:
>>> 
>>> B - bust
>>> O - out
>>> A - another
>>> T - thousand
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII

[Bill Coleman]

Buck Algonquin also has one with a collar  nut.

http://catalog.buckalgonquin.com/category/drain-plugs

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar
Horvatic
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 2:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII

 

When you say installed, you mean drilled.

 

So would you drill vertically down in the bildge, then horizontally from
outside so the two holes meet, then oversize the outside to accommodate the
plug housing?

Drain plug housing I am looking at has four retaining bolt holes.  Seems not
a good idea to put self tapping screws there, so that means you need to
through-bolt. And if that's so, how do you put washers and nuts on the
inside?  

 

Even if I didn't drill vertically down it seems that you can't encompass
lowest point in the bildge, have horizontal drain plug and through-bolt all
four retaining bolts.So What gives?

 

These pics are pretty good, but it looks like he just put self tapping
bronze screws.

http://dan.pfeiffer.net/10m/garboard_drain.htm

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 2:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII

 

mine with as installed from the outside.  Not smooth, but not a big deal.
Much lower than if it were installed from inside.

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 2:16 PM, Petar Horvatic  wrote:

Does anyone have pics or advice on how best to install a garboard drain
plug.

Shallow bildge and external lead keel make it pretty difficult to have
something that is flush on the outside yet encompass the lowest point in the
bildge to allow water to drain.

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 


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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List Centerboard models

[Rick Brass]

If you are a US Sailing member, you can drill down even further and see all
of the ratings for the various PHRF regions that are used as the basis for
the High/Low/Mean rating table.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 8:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Centerboard models

 

//offshore.ussailing.org - start there and you will get something about PHRF
website with high, low and median ratings. 

 

Gary

- Original Message - 

From: Joel Aronson   

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 8:46 AM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Centerboard models

 

Gary 

What is the website?

On Tuesday, October 22, 2013, Gary Nylander wrote:

The national PHRF database shows a 35-3 with an average PHRF at 117 and the
CB version at 129. You should be talking to your local PHRF gurus.

 

Gary Nylander

- Original Message - 

From: cenel...@aol.com 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 4:31 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Centerboard models

 

I am a little surprised that the cb model has the same PHRF as non-cb. At
least with my 90s era  keel/cb vs the fin keel, we rate a higher. Further,
in a reasonable breeze (>6-8 knots), we point with

all the go fast boats with the board down and good sails.

 

Downwind, we hold our own in such breezes by raising the board and are
seldom rolled.

 

In light air, we suffer downwind dragging a keel/cb trunk about 12 inches
thick thru the water! Upwind we also suffer, but the pain is less since at
least we still point with the go fast boats (as we fall behind!).

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

C&C 36 XL/kcb

1995

 

 

cenel...@aol.com  

-Original Message-
From: Joel Aronson  >
To: cnc-list  >
Sent: Tue, Oct 22, 2013 3:13 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Halyards

Harold, 

 

I switched to all rope (VPC) using the same sheaves with no issues over 2
seasons.  If weight were an issue I would go with Dyneema with a cover for
the clutch.

 

The PHRF ratings are the same for the 2 models.  I've never sailed against a
c/b model. (I need to race Chef Dave next year!) I would think that with the
board down you would point well.  Maybe the main (like many of us) has lost
its shape over the years?  

 

Joel

35/3 1983

Annapolis

 

On Tue, Oct 22, 2013 at 2:27 PM, patricia barkley-higginbottom
 > wrote:

Have wire to rope halyards exclusively on my 35-3 1986 . What are the
disadvantages, since it seems most people , when they have to , change to
rope of various types. One I can think of is end to ending when there is
wear, and also less weight aloft, although how much difference that makes on
a relatively heavy boat I dont know. I club race white sail and will have to
change fairly soon because of wear at the jammers and beginnings of fraying
of the wire. I would tend to go with wire to rope again partly because of
the type of sheaves presently employed so need a strong reason to change.

While I am on the site, anyone with a 35-3 full keel who races against a
35-3 with keel centreboard have any idea of performance comparisons between
them. My boat is a centre board version. We do well enough, feel that we do
not point as high as other boats in our PHRF fleet especially in heavier
air, no other 35-3s in that fleet, but we run well and often overhaul boats
that may have got to the windward mark before us.

Harold

Celtic Spirit

35-3 1986

 

 


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301 541 8551 

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  _  


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  _  

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Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

[djhaug...@juno.com]

Hi Tim, Well after months reading on this topic, I've read and re-read posts on 
forums from Peggie Hall "the head queen"  (nice right?!). She is the author of 
a definitive book called "Get Rid of Boat Odors"  and her 2 top choices in 
Heads are the Lavac, which works on a vacuum created by closing the lid, and 
the Raritan PH-II The raritan PHc is the same bowl and pump but sits on a 
smaller pedestal.  She goes on to say that if you are mostly on the boat with 
the same crew the Lavac is best.. She says it takes some learning to use 
properly and that may be problematic if you have changing crew or day sailing 
guests.  She said in that regard the PH-II/ PHC is the best choice.  At least 
that is how I interpreted all that I've read.  Very simple design and works 
best and more reliably that any other head. So, we sail with guest maybe 40% of 
the time and I decided the Raritan was the way to go. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Tim Goodyear 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 07:09:26 -0400


Danny, what are the reasons you are going with the Raritan PHC (there are many 
options out there)?� I am done with replacing the pump annually on the 
Wilcox Crittenden / Thetford Headmate head in Mojito and was looking at a 
replacement.� Now, if only the�pumps were interchangeable between 
models...�Thanks,�Tim

On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 11:27 AM, djhaug...@juno.com  wrote:
Okay guys,�I'm planning a new waste system. �I'm going with the 
Raritan PHC head and a new holding tank. �I currently have a very old 
Jabsco head and a bladder holding tank. �I really don't like the 
bladder. �It has worked okay but, one day it will fail and it will be 
disgusting! �I just want rid of 
it...�...��DannyLolita1973 Viking 33Westport Point, MA
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Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII

[Hoyt, Mike]

Peter
 
There is no vertical drilling.  In all the pictures you have seen the
hole is drilled in the keel stub above the lead portion of the keel.
 
Garbord drains are common practice at the boat yard where we launch our
boats.  Most are the Perko ones you have shown in the Dan.Pfeiffer link.
The purpose in our boatyard is to prevent water buildup in the bilge but
there will still be some water there up to the leve of the bottom of the
drain hole.  
 
I used stainless screws but perhaps should have used bronze.  Also set
in Epoxy in one case and in 3M 5200 in the otehr and faired over using
thickened epoxy.  Some owners do not fair around the flange.  It is
basically no different than a thru hull.
 
Mike



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar
Horvatic
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 3:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII



When you say installed, you mean drilled.

 

So would you drill vertically down in the bildge, then horizontally from
outside so the two holes meet, then oversize the outside to accommodate
the plug housing?

Drain plug housing I am looking at has four retaining bolt holes.  Seems
not a good idea to put self tapping screws there, so that means you need
to through-bolt. And if that's so, how do you put washers and nuts on
the inside?  

 

Even if I didn't drill vertically down it seems that you can't encompass
lowest point in the bildge, have horizontal drain plug and through-bolt
all four retaining bolts.So What gives?

 

These pics are pretty good, but it looks like he just put self tapping
bronze screws.

http://dan.pfeiffer.net/10m/garboard_drain.htm

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 2:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII

 

mine with as installed from the outside.  Not smooth, but not a big
deal.  Much lower than if it were installed from inside.

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 2:16 PM, Petar Horvatic 
wrote:

Does anyone have pics or advice on how best to install a garboard drain
plug.

Shallow bildge and external lead keel make it pretty difficult to have
something that is flush on the outside yet encompass the lowest point in
the bildge to allow water to drain.

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 


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301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

[djhaug...@juno.com]

Oh and defender has it on sale for $262.  It was their boat show discount and 
they seem to have extended it. 
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|51|2234284|2234286&id=1833005 It 
is a really great price for this head.

-- Original Message --
From: "djhaug...@juno.com" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 18:56:27 GMT


Hi Tim, Well after months reading on this topic, I've read and re-read posts on 
forums from Peggie Hall "the head queen"  (nice right?!). She is the author of 
a definitive book called "Get Rid of Boat Odors"  and her 2 top choices in 
Heads are the Lavac, which works on a vacuum created by closing the lid, and 
the Raritan PH-II The raritan PHc is the same bowl and pump but sits on a 
smaller pedestal.  She goes on to say that if you are mostly on the boat with 
the same crew the Lavac is best.. She says it takes some learning to use 
properly and that may be problematic if you have changing crew or day sailing 
guests.  She said in that regard the PH-II/ PHC is the best choice.  At least 
that is how I interpreted all that I've read.  Very simple design and works 
best and more reliably that any other head. So, we sail with guest maybe 40% of 
the time and I decided the Raritan was the way to go. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Tim Goodyear 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 07:09:26 -0400

Danny, what are the reasons you are going with the Raritan PHC (there are many 
options out there)?� I am done with replacing the pump annually on the 
Wilcox Crittenden / Thetford Headmate head in Mojito and was looking at a 
replacement.� Now, if only the�pumps were interchangeable between 
models...�Thanks,�Tim

On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 11:27 AM, djhaug...@juno.com  wrote:
Okay guys,�I'm planning a new waste system. �I'm going with the 
Raritan PHC head and a new holding tank. �I currently have a very old 
Jabsco head and a bladder holding tank. �I really don't like the 
bladder. �It has worked okay but, one day it will fail and it will be 
disgusting! �I just want rid of 
it...�...��DannyLolita1973 Viking 33Westport Point, MA
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Re: Stus-List keel swap

[Rich Knowles]

$4 ?

Rich

> On Oct 23, 2013, at 15:46, Brent Driedger  wrote:
> 
> How we spend our money: the maintenance on the Maltese falcon for a year is 
> about the same as my net worth. 
> 
> Brent
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 23, 2013, at 9:14 AM, Rich Knowles  wrote:
>> 
>> B - best
>> O - of
>> A - all
>> T - things to do. 
>> 
>> Rich
>> 
>>> On Oct 23, 2013, at 11:10, Frederick G Street  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Or,
>>> 
>>> B - broken
>>> O - or
>>> A - about
>>> T - to
>>> 
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>> 
 On Oct 23, 2013, at 7:06 AM, Derek Leck  wrote:
 
 B - bust
 O - out
 A - another
 T - thousand
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> ___
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>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List keel swap

[Della Barba, Joe]

I’d be happy with a positive number…..
Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 3:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List keel swap

$4 ?

Rich

On Oct 23, 2013, at 15:46, Brent Driedger 
mailto:bren...@highspeedcrow.ca>> wrote:
How we spend our money: the maintenance on the Maltese falcon for a year is 
about the same as my net worth.

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 23, 2013, at 9:14 AM, Rich Knowles 
mailto:r...@sailpower.ca>> wrote:
B - best
O - of
A - all
T - things to do.

Rich

On Oct 23, 2013, at 11:10, Frederick G Street 
mailto:f...@postaudio.net>> wrote:
Or,

B - broken
O - or
A - about
T - to

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Oct 23, 2013, at 7:06 AM, Derek Leck 
mailto:derek.l...@metzgers.com>> wrote:


B - bust
O - out
A - another
T - thousand

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Re: Stus-List keel swap

[Rich Knowles]

There's a concept:)

Rich

> On Oct 23, 2013, at 16:22, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:
> 
> I’d be happy with a positive number…..
> Joe Della Barba
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich 
> Knowles
> Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 3:19 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List keel swap
>  
> $4 ?
> 
> Rich
> 
> On Oct 23, 2013, at 15:46, Brent Driedger  wrote:
> 
> How we spend our money: the maintenance on the Maltese falcon for a year is 
> about the same as my net worth. 
>  
> Brent
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Oct 23, 2013, at 9:14 AM, Rich Knowles  wrote:
> 
> B - best
> O - of
> A - all
> T - things to do. 
> 
> Rich
> 
> On Oct 23, 2013, at 11:10, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> 
> Or,
>  
> B - broken
> O - or
> A - about
> T - to
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>  
> On Oct 23, 2013, at 7:06 AM, Derek Leck  wrote:
> 
> 
> B - bust
> O - out
> A - another
> T - thousand
>  
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List keel swap

[Brent Driedger]

Lower

Brent

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 23, 2013, at 2:22 PM, "Della Barba, Joe"  
> wrote:
> 
> I’d be happy with a positive number…..
> Joe Della Barba
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich 
> Knowles
> Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 3:19 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List keel swap
>  
> $4 ?
> 
> Rich
> 
> On Oct 23, 2013, at 15:46, Brent Driedger  wrote:
> 
> How we spend our money: the maintenance on the Maltese falcon for a year is 
> about the same as my net worth. 
>  
> Brent
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Oct 23, 2013, at 9:14 AM, Rich Knowles  wrote:
> 
> B - best
> O - of
> A - all
> T - things to do. 
> 
> Rich
> 
> On Oct 23, 2013, at 11:10, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> 
> Or,
>  
> B - broken
> O - or
> A - about
> T - to
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>  
> On Oct 23, 2013, at 7:06 AM, Derek Leck  wrote:
> 
> 
> B - bust
> O - out
> A - another
> T - thousand
>  
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props

[Della Barba, Joe]

Electric motor torque is usually flat from 0 RPM to max HP RPM and drops from 
there.

--\
  \
\

Joe Della Barba


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 3:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props

Alex;

I've just started reading this e-mail string, so forgive me if what I am about 
to say has already been covered.

All of the prop manufacturers I've dealt with offer a way to get a 
recommendation for the proper prop size on their website. You provide the HP of 
your engine (and maybe the model and max torque information), the gear 
reduction (output RPM) and max engine speed, and information on the 
size/model/weight of the boat. They tell you which prop options would be 
optimal.

For my 15,000 pound 38, with 36 hp diesel @3000 max RPM, and a 1.76:1 reduction 
Gori recommended a 16x10, Martec a 16x 10.5, and Flex-o-fold a
15x11 (each in 2-blade, I'd need to look for the 3-blade recommendations).

On the face of it, 14x12 looks like a lot of prop. State of the art electric 
drives (using AC controllers or DC Pulse Width Modulation) used in industrial 
vehicles can be designed to produce max torque at under 10 RPM, but the torque 
produced generally declines as RPM increases.

My 16x10.5 Martec is roughly equivalent to a 14x14, I'm told. It is handling 
about 300 ft-lbs of max torque at about 1300 prop RPM. (Torque load falls off 
above that point as you approach 3000 engine/1700 prop RPM). Don't know what 
the torque curve is for your electric drive, but I wonder if it might be unable 
to reach a high enough RPM before the torque load maxes out the RPM.

If you've not done so already, I'd suggest that you talk to the folks at Martec 
(and the manufacturer of your electric drive) to get a prop recommendation.

Rick Brass

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex 
Giannelia
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 2:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props

FWIW,

I had a 14x6 Martec at the end of an old WESTERBEKE 15HP diesel pushing/pulling 
my CC35-II in and out of the slip and only when facing a real tailwind backing 
out of my slip, did I have noticeable problems.

So, for my new Electric motor, I dove in and bought a MARTEC 14X12   and
will have to wait till spring to see if I go forward, sideways or backward.

Cheers!


Alex Giannelia
CC 35-II 1974 to be renamed after re-launch TORONTO, Ontario

ag@@airsensing.com



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: October-21-13 12:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 93, Issue 60

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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You can reach the person managing the list at
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
"Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Folding/feathering Props (Steve Thomas)
   2. Re:  Folding/feathering Props (Paul Fountain)
   3. Re:  Folding/feathering Props (Jerome Tauber)
   4. Re:  Reply - Spar Crane (djhaug...@juno.com)
   5.   New Head and holding tank system. (djhaug...@juno.com)
   6. Re:  New Head and holding tank system. (Joel Aronson)
   7. Re:  New Head and holding tank system. (Jim Watts)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2013 08:18:29 -0400
From: Steve Thomas 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Sam,
 I found a used geared Gori for my 27 and it works fine in forward and 
reverse. I had hoped to find a 3 blade folder of some kind to minimise 
vibration but when I checked the manufacturers specifications there were none 
available in a small enough diameter. That was a few years ago so it might not 
be true now.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII

 -Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of 
sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 4:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props


Good experiences; thanks for sharing.
Looks like two or three endorsements for the Max Prop; about the same against 
the Martec; one for the Flexofold; ...and a Gori replacing a Martec!
couple of questions:
How big a deal is the maintenance on the Max Prop?
Is it just a matter of greasing the prop every couple of years or is there 
more? - I pull 

Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props

[Rick Brass]

Vibration can be the result of the clearance between the tip of the prop and
the bottom of the boat. The rule of thumb, as I understand it, is that the
clearance should be at least 10-15% of the prop diameter. More is better.

 

So if you have a 16" diameter prop you should have a minimum of 2" clearance
between prop and hull. More is better for vibration dur to pressure wave and
for efficient flow.

 

The old 17" prop on my boat caused vibration. The 16' prop doesn't seem to.
Of course, that might be caused by different blade shapes, or balance, or
whatever. YMMV.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 10:57 AM
To: 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props

 

According to rumour, PYI told someone that the 2-blade MaxProp can cause
some vibration issues between the tip of the prop blade and the flat on the
bottom of the bustle on some C&C's. This is probably what is happening with
ours, since it is smooth as silk at some RPM's and will vibrate the fillings
out of your teeth at others. The reason I don't think it's the prop itself
is that a standard out-of-balance prop will cause worse vibration at higher
RPM's, but ours smooths out quite a bit at the top end . 

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Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props

[Rick Brass]

Alex;

I've just started reading this e-mail string, so forgive me if what I am
about to say has already been covered.

All of the prop manufacturers I've dealt with offer a way to get a
recommendation for the proper prop size on their website. You provide the HP
of your engine (and maybe the model and max torque information), the gear
reduction (output RPM) and max engine speed, and information on the
size/model/weight of the boat. They tell you which prop options would be
optimal.

For my 15,000 pound 38, with 36 hp diesel @3000 max RPM, and a 1.76:1
reduction Gori recommended a 16x10, Martec a 16x 10.5, and Flex-o-fold a
15x11 (each in 2-blade, I'd need to look for the 3-blade recommendations).

On the face of it, 14x12 looks like a lot of prop. State of the art electric
drives (using AC controllers or DC Pulse Width Modulation) used in
industrial vehicles can be designed to produce max torque at under 10 RPM,
but the torque produced generally declines as RPM increases.

My 16x10.5 Martec is roughly equivalent to a 14x14, I'm told. It is handling
about 300 ft-lbs of max torque at about 1300 prop RPM. (Torque load falls
off above that point as you approach 3000 engine/1700 prop RPM). Don't know
what the torque curve is for your electric drive, but I wonder if it might
be unable to reach a high enough RPM before the torque load maxes out the
RPM.

If you've not done so already, I'd suggest that you talk to the folks at
Martec (and the manufacturer of your electric drive) to get a prop
recommendation.

Rick Brass

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex
Giannelia
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 2:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props

FWIW,

I had a 14x6 Martec at the end of an old WESTERBEKE 15HP diesel
pushing/pulling my CC35-II in and out of the slip and only when facing a
real tailwind backing out of my slip, did I have noticeable problems.

So, for my new Electric motor, I dove in and bought a MARTEC 14X12   and
will have to wait till spring to see if I go forward, sideways or backward.

Cheers!


Alex Giannelia
CC 35-II 1974 to be renamed after re-launch TORONTO, Ontario

ag@@airsensing.com



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: October-21-13 12:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 93, Issue 60

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com

You can reach the person managing the list at
cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
"Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Folding/feathering Props (Steve Thomas)
   2. Re:  Folding/feathering Props (Paul Fountain)
   3. Re:  Folding/feathering Props (Jerome Tauber)
   4. Re:  Reply - Spar Crane (djhaug...@juno.com)
   5.   New Head and holding tank system. (djhaug...@juno.com)
   6. Re:  New Head and holding tank system. (Joel Aronson)
   7. Re:  New Head and holding tank system. (Jim Watts)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2013 08:18:29 -0400
From: Steve Thomas 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Sam,
 I found a used geared Gori for my 27 and it works fine in forward
and reverse. I had hoped to find a 3 blade folder of some kind to minimise
vibration but when I checked the manufacturers specifications there were
none available in a small enough diameter. That was a few years ago so it
might not be true now.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII

 -Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of
sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 4:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props


Good experiences; thanks for sharing.
Looks like two or three endorsements for the Max Prop; about the same
against the Martec; one for the Flexofold; ...and a Gori replacing a Martec!
couple of questions:
How big a deal is the maintenance on the Max Prop?
Is it just a matter of greasing the prop every couple of years or is there
more? - I pull the boat out of the lake every October; so it wouldn't be too
much of a concern.
I still have the old prop on the shaft. Am I correct in assuming that the
taper is a standard SAE? I'm going to need to know for sure before I order.
(Probably safer to remove the prop and measure for peace of mind!) Any more
information / experiences / insights welcome.


sam
C&C 26. Liquorice
Ghost Lake Alberta




??On 10/20/2013 7:21 PM, Tim Goodyear wrote:
  Sam, I have a

Re: Stus-List Limber holes

[Rick Brass]

You drill a small-ish hole through the bulkhead at what is to be the top of
your limber hole. Then you used your handy-dandy Dremel tool to enlarge the
hole, being careful to not damage the inner skin of the hull. And, finally,
you paint epoxy on the inner skin and the wood you have just exposed to
revent (or maybe just delay) delaminating of the bulkhead.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and
Maryann Read
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 10:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Limber holes

 

I recently removed our water tank under the port main cabin bunk for some
much needed cleaning of the hull interior.  Come to find out there is only
one limber hole at the forward end where the piping runs through.
Unfortunately this is not the low spot so any water that gets in under the
tank sits and ferments.  Question is how does one drill a drain hole without
also drilling into the hull interior skin??  It would be through the
interior bunk wall.  The boat is hauled.

 

All thoughts welcomed

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII

[Rich Knowles]

Peter:  Using a 90 deg. angle drill, I drilled a 1/8" pilot hole out from the 
interior of the boat at the intersection of the bilge wall and floor at the 
lowest point in the bilge. 

I then used a Forstner bit the same diameter as the outside of the flange of 
the drain casting to create a recessed hole in the hull exterior the depth of 
the thickness of the flange plus a bit for caulking. 

Once the outer hole was drilled, I drilled the hole for the neck of the drain 
casting deep enough to allow the casting to sit flush with the hull. I then 
used a 1/2" drill at an up angle into the bilge floor to create the water 
passage from the bilge floor into the casting. Three 1 1/4" #10 flat head self 
tapping screws and some 5200 hold and seal the casting in place. I note that 
the flange straddles the hull/keel joint with the majority of the fitting and 
two of the three screws in the hull. The third screw is in the lead. No 
problems to date. That includes dropping and replacing the keel during my 
recent post grounding repair. 

There are nylon or bronze plugs with hex sockets available if the notion of 
drag caused by the protruding square bolt head impeding perfect water flow 
bothers the racing mentality at all. Personally, I can't tell the difference:). 
One could also cut the bolt head off the threaded portion and saw a kerf for a 
large screwdriver in the end of the threaded bit. 

That little gadget is one of the best additions to the boat as it ensures the 
bilge dries out completely every haul out and stays that way. I leave a large 
note to myself to replace the plug in the spring:)

Rich Knowles
Indigo
1981 LF 38
Halifax. NS

> On Oct 23, 2013, at 15:16, "Petar Horvatic"  wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have pics or advice on how best to install a garboard drain plug.
> Shallow bildge and external lead keel make it pretty difficult to have 
> something that is flush on the outside yet encompass the lowest point in the 
> bildge to allow water to drain.
>  
> Petar Horvatic
> Sundowner
> 76 C&C 38MkII
> Newport, RI
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> ___
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Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

[Rick Brass]

Did an offshore passage in a boat with a composting head, and heartily 
recommend the concept. The only downside I found to the installation I 
experienced was the need to climb up onto the head – this one was pretty tall.

 

I removed the holding tank on my 38 a few years ago and installed in its place 
a Lectra-San, a 9 gallon tank, and a group 24 deep cycle battery to power the 
Lectra-San and the windlass. In the past 4 years or so I’ve never had to worry 
about a pumpout or overboard discharge – though I have had to explain to a 
couple of Coasties and USCG Auxilliary folks what “No Discharge” means and the 
CG rules for a type I MSD.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 7:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

 

I'm not really sure what the banana would do...  Lol

I have thought about the porta potty and then thought the composting toilet 
would have been a better idea.  I'm still not completely convinced that it 
isn't.  It is an easy install and for the amount of time we need it, it may 
well be a good solution.  However, it grossed out the admiral.  So, I'm on to 
this solution of a good holding tank design.

T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network

- Reply message -
From: "bobmor99 ." 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.
Date: Mon, Oct 21, 2013 9:51 pm

 

I'm mainly a daysailor who has so far avoided the poo issue. If I were to forgo 
my very comfortable bed and spend a night aboard Ox, I would first try to 
address the poo problem at the source - with bananas. Beyond that, I'd go Porta 
Potti and deal with it.

Bob M

Ox 33-1

Jax, FL

 

On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 11:27 AM, djhaug...@juno.com  wrote:

Okay guys,

 

I'm planning a new waste system.  I'm going with the Raritan PHC head and a new 
holding tank.  I currently have a very old Jabsco head and a bladder holding 
tank.  I really don't like the bladder.  It has worked okay but, one day it 
will fail and it will be disgusting!  I just want rid of it...

 

I'm looking for ideas on the design.  i.e.  Where to install the tank and how 
to pipe it.  I've been reading and I was thinking to try and install about a 
16-18 gallon tank, that conforms to the hull, behind the head.  However, after 
a closer look on Saturday, I'm not sure there is enough room there.  I was kind 
of hoping to install it there in order to pipe up a gravity drain for when I'm 
in an area where that is possible.  This would also keep the hose runs very 
short and I could easily vent and pipe the pump-out fitting in the side deck 
above.

 

Of course that would have the need of piping up hill to get into the tank and 
make it a bit harder to clear the waste from the hose with every flush.  Then I 
heard it might be better to have the waste run downhill to the tank.  That 
would create the need of pumping overboard if I were in an area that allowed it 
and the need of another pump.  

 

I'm not exactly sure how the pump-out system works when having it done at a 
pump-out station.  Is it a fitting that attaches to the deck fitting and sucks 
it up the hose or, do they run a smaller hose down into the tank and suck it 
directly out with their hose?

 

Anyway,  As always, any and all advice, insights and colorful comments are 
appreciated!

 

Danny

Lolita

1973 Viking 33

Westport Point, MA


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Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

[j...@svpaws.net]

Ah Are you sure about the lectrasan?  You seem to be implying that their 
use is legal in a no discharge zone?

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 23, 2013, at 4:27 PM, "Rick Brass"  wrote:
> 
> Did an offshore passage in a boat with a composting head, and heartily 
> recommend the concept. The only downside I found to the installation I 
> experienced was the need to climb up onto the head – this one was pretty tall.
>  
> I removed the holding tank on my 38 a few years ago and installed in its 
> place a Lectra-San, a 9 gallon tank, and a group 24 deep cycle battery to 
> power the Lectra-San and the windlass. In the past 4 years or so I’ve never 
> had to worry about a pumpout or overboard discharge – though I have had to 
> explain to a couple of Coasties and USCG Auxilliary folks what “No Discharge” 
> means and the CG rules for a type I MSD.
>  
> Rick Brass
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> djhaug...@juno.com
> Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 7:00 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.
>  
> I'm not really sure what the banana would do...  Lol
> 
> I have thought about the porta potty and then thought the composting toilet 
> would have been a better idea.  I'm still not completely convinced that it 
> isn't.  It is an easy install and for the amount of time we need it, it may 
> well be a good solution.  However, it grossed out the admiral.  So, I'm on to 
> this solution of a good holding tank design.
> 
> T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network
> 
> - Reply message -
> From: "bobmor99 ." 
> To: 
> Subject: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.
> Date: Mon, Oct 21, 2013 9:51 pm
> 
>  
> I'm mainly a daysailor who has so far avoided the poo issue. If I were to 
> forgo my very comfortable bed and spend a night aboard Ox, I would first try 
> to address the poo problem at the source - with bananas. Beyond that, I'd go 
> Porta Potti and deal with it.
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>  
> 
> On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 11:27 AM, djhaug...@juno.com  
> wrote:
> Okay guys,
>  
> I'm planning a new waste system.  I'm going with the Raritan PHC head and a 
> new holding tank.  I currently have a very old Jabsco head and a bladder 
> holding tank.  I really don't like the bladder.  It has worked okay but, one 
> day it will fail and it will be disgusting!  I just want rid of it...
>  
> I'm looking for ideas on the design.  i.e.  Where to install the tank and how 
> to pipe it.  I've been reading and I was thinking to try and install about a 
> 16-18 gallon tank, that conforms to the hull, behind the head.  However, 
> after a closer look on Saturday, I'm not sure there is enough room there.  I 
> was kind of hoping to install it there in order to pipe up a gravity drain 
> for when I'm in an area where that is possible.  This would also keep the 
> hose runs very short and I could easily vent and pipe the pump-out fitting in 
> the side deck above.
>  
> Of course that would have the need of piping up hill to get into the tank and 
> make it a bit harder to clear the waste from the hose with every flush.  Then 
> I heard it might be better to have the waste run downhill to the tank.  That 
> would create the need of pumping overboard if I were in an area that allowed 
> it and the need of another pump.  
>  
> I'm not exactly sure how the pump-out system works when having it done at a 
> pump-out station.  Is it a fitting that attaches to the deck fitting and 
> sucks it up the hose or, do they run a smaller hose down into the tank and 
> suck it directly out with their hose?
>  
> Anyway,  As always, any and all advice, insights and colorful comments are 
> appreciated!
>  
> Danny
> Lolita
> 1973 Viking 33
> Westport Point, MA
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
>  
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Stus-List furuno radars

[J.P.]

All,

 

I am not real sharp on radar.. but I have a Furuno 1832 that I want to
install on my boat and I am wondering if ANY 4kw model furuno radome will
work? Are the radomes interchangeable like other antennas? Anyone have any
experience putting radar on their boat?


JP

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Re: Stus-List NOW SOLAR VENTS AGAIN

[Rick Brass]

The 4" Nicro vent goes on sale at West Marine from time to time. I bought
the one in my foredeck hatch for $99 at West Marine last spring. They are
normally available on E-Bay for about the same cost, though you might need
to watch for a few weeks  to find a new one at a good price.

 

Do you just need to replace the battery in your existing vent? You can get
them at Batteries Plus. Just remove the old one and take it with you to make
sure you get the right size and AH capacity. That is what I did several
years ago (when the vent that came in the cabin-top hatch of my boat stopped
working at night) and what I plan to do again when I get around to replacing
the battery that is getting weak.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex
Giannelia
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 2:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List NOW SOLAR VENTS AGAIN

 

I recall a whole thread a while ago concerning solar powered vents such as
the NICRO day night I installed in my boat in 2003 which I believe has a
dead battery amongst a few other minor problems.

 

Now for my question.  Can you get a solar vent which, like the NICRO pulls
out of the deck fitting and can be capped, for example when racing etc?

 

I bought one on EBAY and left it in storage till it came time to look, and
found that the one I bought gets bolted on, and stays there.

 

Cheers!

 

Alex

__

Alexander M. Giannelia, B.A.A.

President

THE AIRBORNE SENSING CORPORATION

912-555 Richmond Street West

P.O. Box 1008

TORONTO, Ontario

CANADA, M5V 3B1

 

Office:  +1(416) 203-9858

Fax:   +1(416) 203-9843

Mobile:+1(416) 529-0070

 

a...@airsensing.com

www.airsensing.com

 

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Re: Stus-List furuno radars

[Martin DeYoung]

JP,

I have installed radars on 2 C&Cs, a 1980 36 and a 1971 43.

On the 36 I used the Questus gimbaled mount on a backstay pole.  On the 43 I 
installed a stand-alone pole (+- 12' off the deck) next to the backstay with 
the ability to tilt.  In both cases the power and signal cable was run from the 
nav station under the cockpit then up to the antenna.

I have owned a Furuno radar but do not know if the antennas within a model/year 
range are interchangeable.  My guess is there might be some compatibility 
within models but not across the entire product range.

I do recommend you pick a power (i.e. range) and installation that matches your 
planned usage.  We went for better coverage within a few miles over better long 
range (12+ miles) as most of our trips where limited visibility is an issue 
will be in PNW waters not offshore.

My father-in-law installed a cheap radar on his classic (old wood) power boat. 
I was onboard to be the designated driver for a foggy Seattle Christmas Ship 
booze cruise a few years back.  When I went to use the radar to make sense of 
the Charlie Foxtrot of floating traffic stuffed into Lake Union I found his 
"looks better that way" antenna installation made it impossible to see anything 
within a ½ mile radius.  In Lake Union almost everything is within ½ mile.  His 
Christmas lights did look nice though.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of J.P.
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 1:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List furuno radars

All,

I am not real sharp on radar.. but I have a Furuno 1832 that I want to install 
on my boat and I am wondering if ANY 4kw model furuno radome will work? Are the 
radomes interchangeable like other antennas? Anyone have any experience putting 
radar on their boat?

JP
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Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

[Bill Bina]

  
  
Designated No Discharge Zones mean NO
  discharge. In many of these zones, they are just as worried about
  adding nutrients as anything else. They don't care how you
  pretreated the stuff, you cannot pump it overboard in places such
  as Narragansett Bay, Rhode Island, which are designated
  No-Discharge. You can legally discharge from a Lectrasan system
  within 3 miles of shore, EXCEPT in a designated no-discharge zone.
  Untreated effluent cannot be discharged within 3 miles anywhere. 
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 10/23/2013 4:27 PM, Rick Brass wrote:


  
  
  
  

  Did an offshore passage in a boat with a composting head,
  and heartily recommend the concept. The only downside I
  found to the installation I experienced was the need to
  climb up onto the head – this one was pretty tall.
 
I
  removed the holding tank on my 38 a few years ago and
  installed in its place a Lectra-San, a 9 gallon tank, and
  a group 24 deep cycle battery to power the Lectra-San and
  the windlass. In the past 4 years or so I’ve never had to
  worry about a pumpout or overboard discharge – though I
  have had to explain to a couple of Coasties and USCG
  Auxilliary folks what “No Discharge” means and the CG
  rules for a type I MSD.
 
Rick
  Brass

  


  


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Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

[Rick Brass]

No Discharge means NOTHING overboard within 3 NM of the coast or the Colregs 
Line on the chart. There are a few official No Discharge areas along the east 
coast, with the largest being the waters of Rhode Island and the Florida Keys. 
(I found it ironic that, a couple of months after Rhode Island had the whole 
state declared a no discharge zone, the city of Providence pumped 625,000 
gallons of raw sewage into Naraganset Bay; municipalities don’t need to comply 
with the same regs that we do.) You can find a complete list of official No 
Discharge zones on the USCG website.

 

For the rest of the east coast, the rule is no discharge of UNTREATED WASTE 
within 3 miles of shore or the Colregs line. A Type 1 MSD, Lectra-San being 
probably the most common, treats the waste. Actually a Lectra-San, at one time, 
had to meet more restrictive standards for treatment than a municipal water 
treatment system. Go figure. So discharge from a Lectra-San is legal almost 
anywhere on boats up to 65 feet in length in recreational use or as an 
Uninspected Passenger Vessels.

 

I’d need to look at the USCG website to see if the Great Lakes are a No 
Discharge zone, or if the discharge of untreated waste is what is restricted. 
Since I’m unlikely to be going there anytime soon, I’ve never looked at the 
requirements.

 

I kept a small holding tank in my system for use in No Discharge areas, but so 
far I’ve not been in one so I’ve not had to use it.

 

And as I read the information, many of the no discharge zones (like the Keys 
and Assiteage and Chincoteage in Chesapeake Bay) are no discharge zones because 
of the impact of the organic compounds and nitrogen compounds that remain in 
the treated waste on sensitive marine environments (wetlands) and fisheries 
like oyster beds where you might contribute to an algae bloom.

 

Rick Brass

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
j...@svpaws.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 4:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

 

Ah Are you sure about the lectrasan?  You seem to be implying that their 
use is legal in a no discharge zone?

 

John



Sent from my iPad


On Oct 23, 2013, at 4:27 PM, "Rick Brass"  wrote:

Did an offshore passage in a boat with a composting head, and heartily 
recommend the concept. The only downside I found to the installation I 
experienced was the need to climb up onto the head – this one was pretty tall.

 

I removed the holding tank on my 38 a few years ago and installed in its place 
a Lectra-San, a 9 gallon tank, and a group 24 deep cycle battery to power the 
Lectra-San and the windlass. In the past 4 years or so I’ve never had to worry 
about a pumpout or overboard discharge – though I have had to explain to a 
couple of Coasties and USCG Auxilliary folks what “No Discharge” means and the 
CG rules for a type I MSD.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 7:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

 

I'm not really sure what the banana would do...  Lol

I have thought about the porta potty and then thought the composting toilet 
would have been a better idea.  I'm still not completely convinced that it 
isn't.  It is an easy install and for the amount of time we need it, it may 
well be a good solution.  However, it grossed out the admiral.  So, I'm on to 
this solution of a good holding tank design.

T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network

- Reply message -
From: "bobmor99 ." 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.
Date: Mon, Oct 21, 2013 9:51 pm

 

I'm mainly a daysailor who has so far avoided the poo issue. If I were to forgo 
my very comfortable bed and spend a night aboard Ox, I would first try to 
address the poo problem at the source - with bananas. Beyond that, I'd go Porta 
Potti and deal with it.

Bob M

Ox 33-1

Jax, FL

 

On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 11:27 AM, djhaug...@juno.com  wrote:

Okay guys,

 

I'm planning a new waste system.  I'm going with the Raritan PHC head and a new 
holding tank.  I currently have a very old Jabsco head and a bladder holding 
tank.  I really don't like the bladder.  It has worked okay but, one day it 
will fail and it will be disgusting!  I just want rid of it...

 

I'm looking for ideas on the design.  i.e.  Where to install the tank and how 
to pipe it.  I've been reading and I was thinking to try and install about a 
16-18 gallon tank, that conforms to the hull, behind the head.  However, after 
a closer look on Saturday, I'm not sure there is enough room there.  I was kind 
of hoping to install it there in order to pipe up a gravity drain for when I'm 
in an area where that is possible.  This would also keep the hose runs very 
short and I could easily vent and pipe the pump-out fitting in the side deck 
above.

 

Of cours

Re: Stus-List mounting sprit on the deck

[niall buckley]

Hi I designed and installed a SS removable sprit on my C&C 41.
Works like a charm.
I'll send you pics, if you like. Or you can shoot me some questions if you
like.
Cheers,

Niall.


On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 1:27 PM, Tom Buscaglia  wrote:

>  At the C&C rendezvous on Thetis Island in BC some of us were discussing
> this with a fellow fro UK sails.  Options I am considering are having a SS
> extension to my bow roller to extend a foot or two off the bow for the
> asym.  Some thought it also advisable to have a short extension on the
> masthead to extend the halyard out about 6-8" as a permanent mount to allow
> for the use of furling on the asym without any potential fouling of the
> stays..
>
> The strength of the bow roller is a concern.  But I suspect it is pretty
> solid.
>
> The spar options looks interesting as well.
>
> I'd love to have the thoughts from our crack team of experts in this
> idea...
>
> Tom B
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
> At 05:46 AM 10/23/2013, you wrote:
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2013 22:05:54 -0400
> From: "j...@svpaws.net" 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mounting sprit on the deck
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> This will be an interesting thread.  The tack point is always a marvel of
> boatyard engineering so I can't wait to get some ideas.
>
> John
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Oct 22, 2013, at 8:36 PM, "Pete Shelquist" <
> pete.shelqu...@comcast.net> wrote:
> >
> > I?m exploring the idea of mounting a sprit on my foredeck for flying an
> asym.   Anyone been down that road?  One major concern I have is making
> sure the deck is strong enough for the load.
> >
> > Using this as a source of information:
> > http://fortecarbon.com/marine/bow-poles-sprits/
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Pete
> > Class of 37
> >
> >
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List mounting sprit on the deck

[Pete Shelquist]

Niall - 

Any pics or other recommendations would be a huge help.   Like I mentioned
below, the strength of the deck is one of my big concerns and I'm interested
in how, or if, you reinforced that.

 

Thanks, 
Pete

 

pete.shelqu...@comcast.net

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of niall
buckley
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 4:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List mounting sprit on the deck

 

Hi I designed and installed a SS removable sprit on my C&C 41.

Works like a charm.

I'll send you pics, if you like. Or you can shoot me some questions if you
like.

Cheers,

 

Niall.

 

On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 1:27 PM, Tom Buscaglia  wrote:

At the C&C rendezvous on Thetis Island in BC some of us were discussing this
with a fellow fro UK sails.  Options I am considering are having a SS
extension to my bow roller to extend a foot or two off the bow for the asym.
Some thought it also advisable to have a short extension on the masthead to
extend the halyard out about 6-8" as a permanent mount to allow for the use
of furling on the asym without any potential fouling of the stays..

The strength of the bow roller is a concern.  But I suspect it is pretty
solid.  

The spar options looks interesting as well.

I'd love to have the thoughts from our crack team of experts in this idea...

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200  
www.sv-alera.com  

At 05:46 AM 10/23/2013, you wrote:



--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2013 22:05:54 -0400
From: "j...@svpaws.net" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List mounting sprit on the deck
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

This will be an interesting thread.  The tack point is always a marvel of
boatyard engineering so I can't wait to get some ideas.

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 22, 2013, at 8:36 PM, "Pete Shelquist" 
wrote:
> 
> I?m exploring the idea of mounting a sprit on my foredeck for flying an
asym.   Anyone been down that road?  One major concern I have is making sure
the deck is strong enough for the load.
>  
> Using this as a source of information:
> http://fortecarbon.com/marine/bow-poles-sprits/
>  
>  
> Thanks,
> Pete
> Class of 37
>  
>  


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Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

[Jack Brennan]

Rick:

The Keys are a no discharge zone, but they are also a no pump-out station zone, 
too, so you can guess what happens to the stuff in the holding tanks. 

Biscayne Bay has two pump-out stations at marinas that I’m aware of, and both 
are nearly inaccessible due to traffic around the docks. I can’t think of any 
in Biscayne National Park or the Middle Keys until you get to Boot Key Harbor 
in Marathon, which has a pump-out boat, I believe. 

There are something like 50-70,000 registered boats in South Florida. Many in 
Miami-Dade and Monroe counties never get three miles out because that means 
passing through the reefs that form Hawk’s Channel on the Atlantic side or 
wending a path through Florida Bay to the Gulf of Mexico.

Before you get too alarmed, though ... Miami-Dade broke a sewage line 10 or 15 
years ago and dumped somewhere in the neighborhood of 10 million gallons into 
the bay. Everyone feared disaster, and I’m sure it didn’t do the reefs any 
good, but all traces of the spill had vanished in a couple of days. 

A lot of people think the dolphins put more poop in the bay than people do.

From: Rick Brass 
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 5:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

No Discharge means NOTHING overboard within 3 NM of the coast or the Colregs 
Line on the chart. There are a few official No Discharge areas along the east 
coast, with the largest being the waters of Rhode Island and the Florida Keys. 
(I found it ironic that, a couple of months after Rhode Island had the whole 
state declared a no discharge zone, the city of Providence pumped 625,000 
gallons of raw sewage into Naraganset Bay; municipalities don’t need to comply 
with the same regs that we do.) You can find a complete list of official No 
Discharge zones on the USCG website.

 

For the rest of the east coast, the rule is no discharge of UNTREATED WASTE 
within 3 miles of shore or the Colregs line. A Type 1 MSD, Lectra-San being 
probably the most common, treats the waste. Actually a Lectra-San, at one time, 
had to meet more restrictive standards for treatment than a municipal water 
treatment system. Go figure. So discharge from a Lectra-San is legal almost 
anywhere on boats up to 65 feet in length in recreational use or as an 
Uninspected Passenger Vessels.

 

I’d need to look at the USCG website to see if the Great Lakes are a No 
Discharge zone, or if the discharge of untreated waste is what is restricted. 
Since I’m unlikely to be going there anytime soon, I’ve never looked at the 
requirements.

 

I kept a small holding tank in my system for use in No Discharge areas, but so 
far I’ve not been in one so I’ve not had to use it.

 

And as I read the information, many of the no discharge zones (like the Keys 
and Assiteage and Chincoteage in Chesapeake Bay) are no discharge zones because 
of the impact of the organic compounds and nitrogen compounds that remain in 
the treated waste on sensitive marine environments (wetlands) and fisheries 
like oyster beds where you might contribute to an algae bloom.

 

Rick Brass

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
j...@svpaws.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 4:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

 

Ah Are you sure about the lectrasan?  You seem to be implying that their 
use is legal in a no discharge zone?

 

John



Sent from my iPad


On Oct 23, 2013, at 4:27 PM, "Rick Brass"  wrote:

  Did an offshore passage in a boat with a composting head, and heartily 
recommend the concept. The only downside I found to the installation I 
experienced was the need to climb up onto the head – this one was pretty tall.

   

  I removed the holding tank on my 38 a few years ago and installed in its 
place a Lectra-San, a 9 gallon tank, and a group 24 deep cycle battery to power 
the Lectra-San and the windlass. In the past 4 years or so I’ve never had to 
worry about a pumpout or overboard discharge – though I have had to explain to 
a couple of Coasties and USCG Auxilliary folks what “No Discharge” means and 
the CG rules for a type I MSD.

   

  Rick Brass

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
  Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 7:00 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List New Head and holding tank system.

   

  I'm not really sure what the banana would do...  Lol

  I have thought about the porta potty and then thought the composting toilet 
would have been a better idea.  I'm still not completely convinced that it 
isn't.  It is an easy install and for the amount of time we need it, it may 
well be a good solution.  However, it grossed out the admiral.  So, I'm on to 
this solution of a good holding tank design.

  T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network

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  From: "bobmor99 ." 
  To: 
  Subject: Stus-List New Head