You also left a galvanic isolator out of the diagram. 

See http://promariner.com/products/galvanic-isolation/prosafefs-series/

These keep you from sharing your zinc out to the entire marina ;)

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com <mailto:j...@dellabarba.com> 

Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Della
Barba via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2015 11:30 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft

 

It has been a while since solar panels needed load dumps - modern
controllers are much much better.

That said, if it were me I would  NOT use the controller you have in your
diagram. There are very poor versions of solar controllers all over Fleabay
and Amazon that are inefficient at best. Morning Star controllers are much
better than the cheap Chinese knockoffs. I have a low end Morningstar PWM
controller that works quite well -
http://www.amazon.com/SunGuard-SG-4-Controller-Regulator-Morningstar/dp/B000
O3O0W2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8
<http://www.amazon.com/SunGuard-SG-4-Controller-Regulator-Morningstar/dp/B00
0O3O0W2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427642561&sr=8-2&keywords=morningstar+solar>
&qid=1427642561&sr=8-2&keywords=morningstar+solar - and it isn't even that
expensive. I am considering moving to a more expensive MPPT controller and
bigger panels. The MPPT controllers - if they are the real deal and not
cheapies with a fake label - are quite a bit more efficient. See
http://www.morningstarcorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Morningstar-Corpor
ation-Traditional-PWM-vs-TrakStar-MPPT-Whitepaper-March-2015.pdf .

I also would not try and use a "dual controller" to send solar to the start
bank. 99% of the time the start battery gets about 2% discharged at engine
start and is quickly refilled. Usually solar just feeds the house bank. If
you want to charge the start bank, use the combiner. I don't know if the
charger you have on your diagram is the actual one you are going to use, but
there are better ones out now. I have that same one and it is going on EBay.
I got a Promariner Pronautic with a temperature sensor that is much better
for gels. I could not find a sensor for the old TruCharge and it does not
charge at a high enough voltage in the very cold weather we had even on the
cold setting.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com <mailto:j...@dellabarba.com> 

Coquina 

C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2015 9:36 AM
To: C&C List; Edd Schillay
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft

 

Edd,

You will probably need a "dump" load for the solar.  They are just resistive
loads.  You can get 12v heater pads that you can attach to the water tanks
or heater.  You could also install a block heater in the engine.  Most block
heaters are designed to be plugged into a wall outlet but for a dump load
the current and voltage are way lower than the rating on the heater.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mar 26, 2015 5:30 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Listers,

 

Thanks for all of the advice regarding rewiring the power systems on the
Enterprise. 

 

Here is link to my draft setup:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/EnterpriseWiring-Dra
ft.pdf 

 

Very crude I know and probably could be considered a mess by any respectful
wiring diagram standards. Still, I would appreciate listers input or just to
say "Edd, you got it all wrong. You idiot. Get off our C&C List, you amateur
hack."

 

Thanks again. This list is the most valuable part of owning my C&C. 

 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> 

 









 

 

 


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