Jake I think I remember you having a drive saver too. Yours is made by globe but the electrical isolation is the same...unless you jumpered across the coupling. Isn't that enough to save your zincs? Do you worry about any other metals in the engine, through hulls, or water heater?
Josh On Apr 2, 2015 5:47 AM, "Jake Brodersen via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Rick, > > > > I built my own GI with instructions and parts from Yandina. It was a > quick and easy project, although the installation under the cockpit was a > bit of a challenge. > > > > Jake > > > > *Jake Brodersen* > > *"Midnight Mistress"* > > *C&C 35 Mk-III* > > *Hampton VA* > > > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick > Brass via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, April 01, 2015 9:17 PM > *To:* 'Josh Muckley'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft > > > > Excellent summary, Josh. > > > > I recall the breakover voltage as .6 not .7, but the effect is the same. > 1.2 or 1.4 volts of breakover from two diodes in series will stop the > galvanic current. > > > > And for the frugal among us, and I think that covers most all sailors with > boats under about 50 feet, the price of a 1000 volt, 50 amp diode at Radio > Shack is about $2.99. Add a small project box, some wire, and a couple of > stud terminals, and you've got a homemade galvanic isolator for about > $20-25. > > > > Rick Brass > > Washington, NC > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
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