Boat speed is very helpful for innumerable reasons. The speed wheel shows speed through the water. The GPS shows speed over ground. If you take the differance then you can see the speed of the current.
The wind instrument uses boat speed to calculate apparent wind speed and angle which is more valuable for sailing close hulled or preparing for a jibe. Boat speed is a more appropriate choice when determining prop and engine performance and hull cleanliness. Boat speed is also more valuable for motoring in a current. I lost steerage in a narrow channel. I was moving faster than I wanted to hit the dock but with the engine in neutral was still making 2 kts on the GPS. A look at the boat speed told me I was going 0 kts. As little as I wanted to I had to speed up. When preparing to reverse I always hold the wheel straight until the boat speed comes to 0 then move 180° around the pedistal to drive backwards. To be honest GPS speed is way less useful to me and given the choice between keeping only one would be the one to go. One of the only truely helpful things that GPS will provide is ETA but while sailing so many factors can mess with that number. You're right though you could do away with it all. For thousands of years sailors didn't have fancy electronics and poor quality or no charts. I'll keep mine. Josh On Jan 14, 2014 7:56 AM, "Rich Knowles" <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote: > Curtis, your ohm meter likely wont show anything. Plug it into the > instrument to test it. > > Rich > > On Jan 14, 2014, at 8:31, Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com> wrote: > > I worked with the paddle wheel last night ad was able to clean it. It now > spins freely but shows however it still has no activity on the ohms meter. > All that being said, how much does this speed help you anyway? I mean it > will tell me how fast the river is passing under my boat but not if I’m > making speed? The GPS tells me distance over the ground, I have been > sailing real good before and not making much distance over the ground. What > are your thoughts on this? I will hook it back up and try it tonight after > work. But if there is no activity on the meter It may have a bad wire or > something. > > Thanks for you guys helping me out. I take no offence I know I’m green at > all of this and expect a bit of new guy jokes and slapping around. It’s all > good with me I’m just glad to have someone to ask help from. I am very glad > you guys are her. > > Curtis > > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 1:08 AM, Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com>wrote: > >> I had to knock the pin out of my paddlewheel and replace the wheel and >> the pin, since I had whacked into something hard and it stopped working, >> pretty much. Bent the pin, knocked one of the lobes off the paddlewheel. >> Then I put the new paddlewheel on backwards, and it worked well enough >> since I had a nice straight pin, but it took a lot of calibrating. I >> noticed sometime the next year. >> >> It's a steep learning curve. >> >> Jim Watts >> Paradigm Shift >> C&C 35 Mk III >> Victoria, BC >> >> >> On 13 January 2014 22:02, Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote: >> >>> Hi Curtis. >>> >>> Apologies for sounding frustrated. You are asking some simple questions >>> for which there are relatively complex answers. I appreciate where you are >>> as it's a place where most of us have been at one point, but it's so long >>> ago we have forgotten:) I think we are all trying to answer your questions >>> with the best we have to offer. I was under the mistaken impression that >>> you did not have the manuals for the gear. Sorry! Bear with us. We all have >>> the best of intentions! >>> >>> I looks like you have a well equipped boat, even if the gear is not >>> brand new. A couple of comments: >>> >>> If your paddlewheel on your speed/temp transducer is not turning freely, >>> you should be able to remove it inside the boat and push the paddle wheel >>> shaft out to remove the wheel, clean it up, and get it going freely. If >>> your boat is in the water, you can still pull the transducer out as long as >>> you are prepared for a short spurt of water until you get a plug or the >>> dummy transducer in the hole. The lack of continuity, however you are >>> measuring it, may or may not mean anything. Try getting it rotating freely >>> and spin it while it's in the boat to see if it's registering on your >>> knotmeter. >>> >>> If the wind vane is working ok, you should be able to tie it into the >>> autohelm and use it as a steering sensor. Your manuals should tell you how. >>> >>> Don't give up! We're here to help you out, and annoy the hell out of you >>> occasionally just to get even:) >>> >>> Cheers. >>> >>> Rich Knowles >>> INDIGO LF38 >>> Halifax, NS. >>> >>> >>> On Jan 13, 2014, at 11:09 PM, Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>> Rich, >>> >>> I have read and continue to read the manuals for all this equipment. I >>> note a bit of frustration with regards’ to my lack of understanding of this >>> equipment. I have only owned my C&C30 for a couple of years now, The boat >>> came with a lot of st50 auto-helm equipment >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> 1) Tri-data >>> >>> 2) VMG >>> >>> 3) ST4000 >>> >>> 4) Wind >>> >>> 5) Multi >>> >>> 6) Speed Trim >>> >>> 7) NAV-Data >>> >>> 8) I also have a 36” pole with a wind feather on the top of it? Z159 >>> >>> >>> Transducers’= (wind speed true/app Direction) >>> >>> (Water speed paddle wheel) >>> >>> (Depth temp) >>> >>> (Wind angle? Z159) >>> >>> (Fluxgate) >>> >>> >>> Everything seams to power up, but the paddlewheel will not turn freely. >>> And there is no continuity in the cable? So, it’s fair to say the speed >>> trans is no good. >>> >>> The fluxgate I was able to swing in as the “Manual” instructed. I’m able >>> to set the clutch in place and hold the boat at the heading I point it at >>> using the st4000 so I know that works. But reading the above makes sense >>> that it would be independent of the Garmin GPS. However I was told that’s >>> what makes the system so cool is It would follow a courts set by gps. If I >>> read Schiller’s post correctly I could set it to receive the wind vane so I >>> might steer a wind angle? Now that would be progress. >>> >>> >>> Moving forward I will hook back up the Fluxgate compass and reconsider >>> what else? >>> >>> >>> Thanks again its just so much to take in for someone that has never been >>> involved in marine electronics and new to boat ownership as well. >>> >>> I will get it. It just may take me more time than I was hoping for. >>> >>> Thanks again for all the advice and help. With out you guys I would >>> flounder for months on this stuff. Maybe I should just cut it all loose >>> and e-bay it. Just use the Garmin and the depth sounder. It would be a way >>> to watch both ends of the boat in close anchorages. >>> >>> Cheers, Curtis >>> >>> >>> On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 4:26 PM, Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote: >>> >>>> Curtis: >>>> >>>> The fluxgate compass is the primary source of heading information for >>>> the autopilot head and should *not* be disconnected. >>>> >>>> When you push the "AUTO" button, the course computer locks on to the >>>> compass heading the boat is on and develops internal correcting signals as >>>> the boat yaws to either side of the original heading and uses those >>>> cross-track error signals to drive the wheel and hold the course steady. >>>> Once properly set up, the course holding abilities of the ST4000 are quite >>>> good and you should be on a constant course in the direction originally >>>> set. This way of using the ST4000 is the standard way of operating. It's >>>> just fine for relatively short legs but, as it only uses the boat's heading >>>> as a reference, it cannot compensate for current or leeway of the boat. In >>>> other words, you could be doing 220 deg for several hours and be miles of >>>> your intended destination if a cross current caused by tide has pushed you >>>> away from the rhumb line. >>>> >>>> To avoid getting pushed off course by factors that the fluxgate compass >>>> cannot measure or compensate for, an external source of cross-track error >>>> signals is needed that uses the final destination point as the reference >>>> from which to calculate whether course correction is needed. >>>> >>>> When you have a "GO TO" destination set up and activated on the GPS >>>> unit, the GPS will develop off course signals that can be used by the auto >>>> helm computer to steer the boat to the destination. That information is >>>> delivered to the ST4000 via the NMEA signals. >>>> >>>> Pardon me if you are aware of this already. I strongly recommend >>>> reading the manuals and, if there are terms that are unclear, Google them >>>> up. >>>> >>>> Hook that compass up and RTFM! >>>> >>>> Rich Knowles >>>> INDIGO LF38 >>>> Halifax, NS. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Jan 13, 2014, at 4:26 PM, Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>> I have a flux gate compass I disconnected it from the head because I >>>> thought the auto-pilot head would now get its heading from the GPS unit? >>>> >>>> So I will take some photos and show you what I have. >>>> >>>> How will I ever nap a nap in??? >>>> >>>> >>>> On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 2:19 PM, Michael Brown <m...@tkg.ca> wrote: >>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >Though something to consider is that the 0183 standard is for a total >>>>> of 4 >>>>> >wires to send and recieve. RX+GND and TX+GND. I didn't see where >>>>> you >>>>> >mentioned all those wires...sounded like too few. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> The ST4000 control head is NMEA IN only, two wires marks - +. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> > >>>>> > So now, If I understand you correctly. I first have to create a >>>>> route then to >>>>> > start navigating a course or to a way-point. That should start >>>>> > broadcasting a course to steer signal. then I in-gauge the st4000 >>>>> by >>>>> > pressing the +10 and -10 at the same time and it should start taking >>>>> > direction from the Garmin? >>>>> > does this sound correct? >>>>> > >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> With NEMA to the ST4000 it depends on what is being sent. Autohelm >>>>> describes two >>>>> scenarios, automatic acquisition and manual acquisition. >>>>> >>>>> Automatic - both cross track error and bearing to waypoint are sent >>>>> Manual - only cross track error is sent >>>>> >>>>> With automatic get everything engaged and press +10 and -10 together. >>>>> The manual >>>>> requires that you get on course withing 5 degrees of the bearing to >>>>> the waypoint and >>>>> cross track less than 0.1 nm, then press +10 and -10 together. >>>>> >>>>> My guess is, and strictly a guess, is that the ST4000 uses its own >>>>> fluxgate compass >>>>> for navigation and takes some error correction from NEMA for cross >>>>> track. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >I know it has probably been done by others but I am not sure that I >>>>> would >>>>> >ever let my ST 4000 plus steer a course unattended based on transfer >>>>> data >>>>> >from my chart plotter. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> I wonder if that was what Autohelm was thinking, they seem to use the >>>>> fluxgate compass. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> > Curt ? it?s been my experience that pretty much NO equipment uses >>>>> the same color wire for the same thing, even among equipment from the same >>>>> manufacturer. >>>>> >>>>> >You need to connect the NMEA0183 output wires from the GPS to the >>>>> NMEA0183 input wires on the > autopilot; TX+ and TX- on the Garmin to RX+ >>>>> and RX- on the Raymarine. >>>>> >>>>> >I can guarantee that the chances of any two of these wires having >>>>> common colors is about zero. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Supposedly the + is Red and - is Blue, however Autohelm agrees with >>>>> you. They are marked + and - only. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Michael Brown >>>>> Windburn >>>>> C&C 30-1 >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >>>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> >>>> *At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much. - Robin >>>> Lee Graham* >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> -- >>> >>> *At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much. - Robin Lee >>> Graham* >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> > > > -- > > *At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much. - Robin Lee > Graham* > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > >
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