That helps . I can understand why it is needed. it would be a great help to
me . I do sail in the Beaufort / Broad / Morgan rivers more than anywhere
else. I have to fight 7 to 9 foot tidal changes. I mentioned in a another
post that I have been sailing real hard and doing real good with the water
racing past the boat just to look at the GPS showing 3 knots. When I now I
was doing at least 6 or 6.5?
thanks
This helps


On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 9:13 AM, Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Boat speed is very helpful for innumerable reasons.
>
> The speed wheel shows speed through the water.  The GPS shows speed over
> ground.  If you take the differance then you can see the speed of the
> current.
>
> The wind instrument uses boat speed to calculate apparent wind speed and
> angle which is more valuable for sailing close hulled or preparing for a
> jibe.
>
> Boat speed is a more appropriate choice when determining prop and engine
> performance and hull cleanliness.
>
> Boat speed is also more valuable for motoring in a current.  I lost
> steerage in a narrow channel.  I was moving faster than I wanted to hit the
> dock but with the engine in neutral was still making 2 kts on the GPS.  A
> look at the boat speed told me I was going 0 kts.  As little as I wanted to
> I had to speed up.
>
> When preparing to reverse I always hold the wheel straight until the boat
> speed comes to 0 then move 180° around the pedistal to drive backwards.
>
> To be honest GPS speed is way less useful to me and given the choice
> between keeping only one would be the one to go.  One of the only truely
> helpful things that GPS will provide is ETA but while sailing so many
> factors can mess with that number.
>
> You're right though you could do away with it all.  For thousands of years
> sailors didn't have fancy electronics and poor quality or no charts.
>
> I'll keep mine.
>
> Josh
> On Jan 14, 2014 7:56 AM, "Rich Knowles" <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote:
>
>> Curtis, your ohm meter likely wont show anything. Plug it into the
>> instrument to test it.
>>
>> Rich
>>
>> On Jan 14, 2014, at 8:31, Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> I worked with the paddle wheel last night ad was able to clean it. It now
>> spins freely but shows however it still has no activity on the ohms meter.
>>  All that being said, how much does this speed help you anyway? I mean it
>> will tell me how fast the river is passing under my boat but not if I’m
>> making speed? The GPS tells me distance over the ground, I have been
>> sailing real good before and not making much distance over the ground. What
>> are your thoughts on this? I will hook it back up and try it tonight after
>> work. But if there is no activity on the meter It may have a bad wire or
>> something.
>>
>> Thanks for you guys helping me out. I take no offence I know I’m green at
>> all of this and expect a bit of new guy jokes and slapping around. It’s all
>> good with me I’m just glad to have someone to ask help from. I am very glad
>> you guys are her.
>>
>> Curtis
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 1:08 AM, Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>
>>> I had to knock the pin out of my paddlewheel and replace the wheel and
>>> the pin, since I had whacked into something hard and it stopped working,
>>> pretty much. Bent the pin, knocked one of the lobes off the paddlewheel.
>>> Then I put the new paddlewheel on backwards, and it worked well enough
>>> since I had a nice straight pin, but it took a lot of calibrating. I
>>> noticed sometime the next year.
>>>
>>> It's a steep learning curve.
>>>
>>> Jim Watts
>>> Paradigm Shift
>>> C&C 35 Mk III
>>> Victoria, BC
>>>
>>>
>>> On 13 January 2014 22:02, Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi Curtis.
>>>>
>>>> Apologies for sounding frustrated. You are asking some simple questions
>>>> for which there are relatively complex answers. I appreciate where you are
>>>> as it's a place where most of us have been at one point, but it's so long
>>>> ago we have forgotten:) I think we are all trying to answer your questions
>>>> with the best we have to offer. I was under the mistaken impression that
>>>> you did not have the manuals for the gear. Sorry! Bear with us. We all have
>>>> the best of intentions!
>>>>
>>>> I looks like you have a well equipped boat, even if the gear is not
>>>> brand new. A couple of comments:
>>>>
>>>> If your paddlewheel on your speed/temp transducer is not turning
>>>> freely, you should be able to remove it inside the boat and push the paddle
>>>> wheel shaft out to remove the wheel, clean it up, and get it going freely.
>>>> If your boat is in the water, you can still pull the transducer out as long
>>>> as you are prepared for a short spurt of water until you get a plug or the
>>>> dummy transducer in the hole. The lack of continuity, however you are
>>>> measuring it, may or may not mean anything. Try getting it rotating freely
>>>> and spin it while it's in the boat to see if it's registering on your
>>>> knotmeter.
>>>>
>>>> If the wind vane is working ok, you should be able to tie it into the
>>>> autohelm and use it as a steering sensor. Your manuals should tell you how.
>>>>
>>>> Don't give up! We're here to help you out, and annoy the hell out of
>>>> you occasionally just to get even:)
>>>>
>>>> Cheers.
>>>>
>>>> Rich Knowles
>>>> INDIGO LF38
>>>> Halifax, NS.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Jan 13, 2014, at 11:09 PM, Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Rich,
>>>>
>>>> I have read and continue to read the manuals for all this equipment. I
>>>> note a bit of frustration with regards’ to my lack of understanding of this
>>>> equipment. I have only owned my C&C30 for a couple of years now, The boat
>>>> came with a lot of st50 auto-helm equipment
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 1) Tri-data
>>>>
>>>> 2) VMG
>>>>
>>>> 3) ST4000
>>>>
>>>> 4) Wind
>>>>
>>>> 5) Multi
>>>>
>>>> 6) Speed Trim
>>>>
>>>> 7) NAV-Data
>>>>
>>>> 8) I also have a 36” pole with a wind feather on the top of it? Z159
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Transducers’= (wind speed true/app Direction)
>>>>
>>>> (Water speed paddle wheel)
>>>>
>>>> (Depth temp)
>>>>
>>>> (Wind angle? Z159)
>>>>
>>>> (Fluxgate)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Everything seams to power up, but the paddlewheel will not turn freely.
>>>> And there is no continuity in the cable? So, it’s fair to say the speed
>>>> trans is no good.
>>>>
>>>> The fluxgate I was able to swing in as the “Manual” instructed. I’m
>>>> able to set the clutch in place and hold the boat at the heading I point it
>>>> at using the st4000 so I know that works. But reading the above makes sense
>>>> that it would be independent of the Garmin GPS. However I was told that’s
>>>> what makes the system so cool is It would follow a courts set by gps. If I
>>>> read Schiller’s post correctly I could set it to receive the wind vane so I
>>>> might steer a wind angle? Now that would be progress.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Moving forward I will hook back up the Fluxgate compass and reconsider
>>>> what else?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks again its just so much to take in for someone that has never
>>>> been involved in marine electronics and new to boat ownership as well.
>>>>
>>>> I will get it. It just may take me more time than I was hoping for.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks again for all the advice and help. With out you guys I would
>>>> flounder for months on this stuff.  Maybe I should just cut it all loose
>>>> and e-bay it. Just use the Garmin and the depth sounder. It would be a way
>>>> to watch both ends of the boat in close anchorages.
>>>>
>>>> Cheers, Curtis
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 4:26 PM, Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Curtis:
>>>>>
>>>>> The fluxgate compass is the primary source of heading information for
>>>>> the autopilot head and should *not* be disconnected.
>>>>>
>>>>> When you push the "AUTO" button, the course computer locks on to the
>>>>> compass heading the boat is on and develops internal correcting signals as
>>>>> the boat yaws to either side of the original heading and uses those
>>>>> cross-track error signals to drive the wheel and hold the course steady.
>>>>> Once properly set up, the course holding abilities of the ST4000 are quite
>>>>> good and you should be on a constant course in the direction originally
>>>>> set. This way of using the ST4000 is the standard way of operating. It's
>>>>> just fine for relatively short legs but, as it only uses the boat's 
>>>>> heading
>>>>> as a reference, it cannot compensate for current or leeway of the boat. In
>>>>> other words, you could be doing 220 deg for several hours and be miles of
>>>>> your intended destination if a cross current caused by tide has pushed you
>>>>> away from the rhumb line.
>>>>>
>>>>> To avoid getting pushed off course by factors that the fluxgate
>>>>> compass cannot measure or compensate for, an external source of 
>>>>> cross-track
>>>>> error signals is needed that uses the final destination point as the
>>>>> reference from which to calculate whether course correction is needed.
>>>>>
>>>>> When you have a "GO TO" destination set up and activated on the GPS
>>>>> unit, the GPS will develop off course signals that can be used by the auto
>>>>> helm computer to steer the boat to the destination. That information is
>>>>> delivered to the ST4000 via the NMEA signals.
>>>>>
>>>>> Pardon me if you are aware of this already. I strongly recommend
>>>>> reading the manuals and, if there are terms that are unclear, Google them
>>>>> up.
>>>>>
>>>>> Hook that compass up and RTFM!
>>>>>
>>>>> Rich Knowles
>>>>> INDIGO LF38
>>>>> Halifax, NS.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Jan 13, 2014, at 4:26 PM, Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I have a flux gate compass I disconnected it from the head because I
>>>>> thought the auto-pilot head would now get its heading from the GPS unit?
>>>>>
>>>>> So I will take some photos and show you what I have.
>>>>>
>>>>> How will I ever nap a nap in???
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 2:19 PM, Michael Brown <m...@tkg.ca> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> >Though something to consider is that the 0183 standard is for a
>>>>>> total of 4
>>>>>> >wires to send and recieve.  RX+GND and TX+GND.  I didn't see where
>>>>>> you
>>>>>> >mentioned all those wires...sounded like too few.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The ST4000 control head is NMEA IN only, two wires marks - +.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> >
>>>>>> > So now, If I understand you correctly. I first have to create a
>>>>>> route then to
>>>>>> > start navigating a course or to a way-point.  That should start
>>>>>> > broadcasting a course to steer signal. then I in-gauge the st4000
>>>>>>  by
>>>>>> > pressing the +10 and -10 at the same time and it should start
>>>>>> taking
>>>>>> > direction from the Garmin?
>>>>>> > does this sound correct?
>>>>>> >
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> With NEMA to the ST4000 it depends on what is being sent. Autohelm
>>>>>> describes two
>>>>>> scenarios,  automatic acquisition and manual acquisition.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Automatic - both cross track error and bearing to waypoint are sent
>>>>>> Manual - only cross track error is sent
>>>>>>
>>>>>> With automatic get everything engaged and press +10 and -10 together.
>>>>>> The manual
>>>>>> requires that you get on course withing 5 degrees of the bearing to
>>>>>> the waypoint and
>>>>>> cross track less than 0.1 nm, then press +10 and -10 together.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My guess is, and strictly a guess, is that the ST4000 uses its own
>>>>>> fluxgate compass
>>>>>> for navigation and takes some error correction from NEMA for cross
>>>>>> track.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> >I know it has probably been done by others but I am not sure that I
>>>>>> would
>>>>>> >ever let my ST 4000 plus steer a course unattended based on transfer
>>>>>> data
>>>>>> >from my chart plotter.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I wonder if that was what Autohelm was thinking, they seem to use the
>>>>>> fluxgate compass.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> > Curt ? it?s been my experience that pretty much NO equipment uses
>>>>>> the same color wire for the same thing, even among equipment from the 
>>>>>> same
>>>>>> manufacturer.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> >You need to connect the NMEA0183 output wires from the GPS to the
>>>>>> NMEA0183 input wires on the > autopilot; TX+ and TX- on the Garmin to RX+
>>>>>> and RX- on the Raymarine.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> >I can guarantee that the chances of any two of these wires having
>>>>>> common colors is about zero.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Supposedly the + is Red and - is Blue, however Autohelm agrees with
>>>>>> you. They are marked + and - only.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Michael Brown
>>>>>> Windburn
>>>>>> C&C 30-1
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>>
>>>>> *At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much. -  Robin
>>>>> Lee Graham*
>>>>>
>>>>>  _______________________________________________
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>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>>
>>>> *At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much. -  Robin
>>>> Lee Graham*
>>>>
>>>>  _______________________________________________
>>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> *At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much. -  Robin Lee
>> Graham*
>>
>>  _______________________________________________
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
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