Curtis, your ohm meter likely wont show anything. Plug it into the instrument 
to test it. 

Rich

> On Jan 14, 2014, at 8:31, Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I worked with the paddle wheel last night ad was able to clean it. It now 
> spins freely but shows however it still has no activity on the ohms meter.  
> All that being said, how much does this speed help you anyway? I mean it will 
> tell me how fast the river is passing under my boat but not if I’m making 
> speed? The GPS tells me distance over the ground, I have been sailing real 
> good before and not making much distance over the ground. What are your 
> thoughts on this? I will hook it back up and try it tonight after work. But 
> if there is no activity on the meter It may have a bad wire or something. 
> 
> Thanks for you guys helping me out. I take no offence I know I’m green at all 
> of this and expect a bit of new guy jokes and slapping around. It’s all good 
> with me I’m just glad to have someone to ask help from. I am very glad you 
> guys are her.   
> 
> Curtis
> 
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 1:08 AM, Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> I had to knock the pin out of my paddlewheel and replace the wheel and the 
>> pin, since I had whacked into something hard and it stopped working, pretty 
>> much. Bent the pin, knocked one of the lobes off the paddlewheel. Then I put 
>> the new paddlewheel on backwards, and it worked well enough since I had a 
>> nice straight pin, but it took a lot of calibrating. I noticed sometime the 
>> next year.  
>> 
>> It's a steep learning curve. 
>> 
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> 
>> 
>>> On 13 January 2014 22:02, Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote:
>>> Hi Curtis.
>>> 
>>> Apologies for sounding frustrated. You are asking some simple questions for 
>>> which there are relatively complex answers. I appreciate where you are as 
>>> it's a place where most of us have been at one point, but it's so long ago 
>>> we have forgotten:) I think we are all trying to answer your questions with 
>>> the best we have to offer. I was under the mistaken impression that you did 
>>> not have the manuals for the gear. Sorry! Bear with us. We all have the 
>>> best of intentions!
>>> 
>>> I looks like you have a well equipped boat, even if the gear is not brand 
>>> new. A couple of comments:
>>> 
>>> If your paddlewheel on your speed/temp transducer is not turning freely, 
>>> you should be able to remove it inside the boat and push the paddle wheel 
>>> shaft out to remove the wheel, clean it up, and get it going freely. If 
>>> your boat is in the water, you can still pull the transducer out as long as 
>>> you are prepared for a short spurt of water until you get a plug or the 
>>> dummy transducer in the hole. The lack of continuity, however you are 
>>> measuring it, may or may not mean anything. Try getting it rotating freely 
>>> and spin it while it's in the boat to see if it's registering on your 
>>> knotmeter. 
>>> 
>>> If the wind vane is working ok, you should be able to tie it into the 
>>> autohelm and use it as a steering sensor. Your manuals should tell you how.
>>> 
>>> Don't give up! We're here to help you out, and annoy the hell out of you 
>>> occasionally just to get even:)
>>> 
>>> Cheers.
>>> 
>>> Rich Knowles
>>> INDIGO LF38
>>> Halifax, NS.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Jan 13, 2014, at 11:09 PM, Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Rich,
>>> 
>>> I have read and continue to read the manuals for all this equipment. I note 
>>> a bit of frustration with regards’ to my lack of understanding of this 
>>> equipment. I have only owned my C&C30 for a couple of years now, The boat 
>>> came with a lot of st50 auto-helm equipment
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 1) Tri-data
>>> 
>>> 2) VMG
>>> 
>>> 3) ST4000
>>> 
>>> 4) Wind
>>> 
>>> 5) Multi
>>> 
>>> 6) Speed Trim
>>> 
>>> 7) NAV-Data
>>> 
>>> 8) I also have a 36” pole with a wind feather on the top of it? Z159
>>> 
>>>  
>>> Transducers’= (wind speed true/app Direction)
>>> 
>>> (Water speed paddle wheel)
>>> 
>>> (Depth temp)
>>> 
>>> (Wind angle? Z159)
>>> 
>>> (Fluxgate)
>>> 
>>>  
>>> Everything seams to power up, but the paddlewheel will not turn freely. And 
>>> there is no continuity in the cable? So, it’s fair to say the speed trans 
>>> is no good.
>>> 
>>> The fluxgate I was able to swing in as the “Manual” instructed. I’m able to 
>>> set the clutch in place and hold the boat at the heading I point it at 
>>> using the st4000 so I know that works. But reading the above makes sense 
>>> that it would be independent of the Garmin GPS. However I was told that’s 
>>> what makes the system so cool is It would follow a courts set by gps. If I 
>>> read Schiller’s post correctly I could set it to receive the wind vane so I 
>>> might steer a wind angle? Now that would be progress.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> Moving forward I will hook back up the Fluxgate compass and reconsider what 
>>> else?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> Thanks again its just so much to take in for someone that has never been 
>>> involved in marine electronics and new to boat ownership as well.
>>> 
>>> I will get it. It just may take me more time than I was hoping for.
>>> 
>>> Thanks again for all the advice and help. With out you guys I would 
>>> flounder for months on this stuff.  Maybe I should just cut it all loose 
>>> and e-bay it. Just use the Garmin and the depth sounder. It would be a way 
>>> to watch both ends of the boat in close anchorages.
>>> 
>>> Cheers, Curtis
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 4:26 PM, Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote:
>>>> Curtis:
>>>> 
>>>> The fluxgate compass is the primary source of heading information for the 
>>>> autopilot head and should not be disconnected. 
>>>> 
>>>> When you push the "AUTO" button, the course computer locks on to the 
>>>> compass heading the boat is on and develops internal correcting signals as 
>>>> the boat yaws to either side of the original heading and uses those 
>>>> cross-track error signals to drive the wheel and hold the course steady. 
>>>> Once properly set up, the course holding abilities of the ST4000 are quite 
>>>> good and you should be on a constant course in the direction originally 
>>>> set. This way of using the ST4000 is the standard way of operating. It's 
>>>> just fine for relatively short legs but, as it only uses the boat's 
>>>> heading as a reference, it cannot compensate for current or leeway of the 
>>>> boat. In other words, you could be doing 220 deg for several hours and be 
>>>> miles of your intended destination if a cross current caused by tide has 
>>>> pushed you away from the rhumb line.
>>>> 
>>>> To avoid getting pushed off course by factors that the fluxgate compass 
>>>> cannot measure or compensate for, an external source of cross-track error 
>>>> signals is needed that uses the final destination point as the reference 
>>>> from which to calculate whether course correction is needed.
>>>> 
>>>> When you have a "GO TO" destination set up and activated on the GPS unit, 
>>>> the GPS will develop off course signals that can be used by the auto helm 
>>>> computer to steer the boat to the destination. That information is 
>>>> delivered to the ST4000 via the NMEA signals.
>>>> 
>>>> Pardon me if you are aware of this already. I strongly recommend reading 
>>>> the manuals and, if there are terms that are unclear, Google them up. 
>>>> 
>>>> Hook that compass up and RTFM!
>>>> 
>>>> Rich Knowles
>>>> INDIGO LF38
>>>> Halifax, NS.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On Jan 13, 2014, at 4:26 PM, Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> I have a flux gate compass I disconnected it from the head because I 
>>>> thought the auto-pilot head would now get its heading from the GPS unit?
>>>>   
>>>> So I will take some photos and show you what I have.
>>>> 
>>>> How will I ever nap a nap in??? 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 2:19 PM, Michael Brown <m...@tkg.ca> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> >Though something to consider is that the 0183 standard is for a total of 
>>>>> >4 
>>>>> >wires to send and recieve.  RX+GND and TX+GND.  I didn't see where you 
>>>>> >mentioned all those wires...sounded like too few. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> The ST4000 control head is NMEA IN only, two wires marks - +.
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> > 
>>>>> > So now, If I understand you correctly. I first have to create a route 
>>>>> > then to 
>>>>> > start navigating a course or to a way-point.  That should start 
>>>>> > broadcasting a course to steer signal. then I in-gauge the st4000  by 
>>>>> > pressing the +10 and -10 at the same time and it should start taking 
>>>>> > direction from the Garmin? 
>>>>> > does this sound correct? 
>>>>> > 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> With NEMA to the ST4000 it depends on what is being sent. Autohelm 
>>>>> describes two
>>>>> scenarios,  automatic acquisition and manual acquisition.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Automatic - both cross track error and bearing to waypoint are sent
>>>>> Manual - only cross track error is sent
>>>>> 
>>>>> With automatic get everything engaged and press +10 and -10 together. The 
>>>>> manual
>>>>> requires that you get on course withing 5 degrees of the bearing to the 
>>>>> waypoint and
>>>>> cross track less than 0.1 nm, then press +10 and -10 together.
>>>>> 
>>>>> My guess is, and strictly a guess, is that the ST4000 uses its own 
>>>>> fluxgate compass
>>>>> for navigation and takes some error correction from NEMA for cross track.
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> >I know it has probably been done by others but I am not sure that I 
>>>>> >would 
>>>>> >ever let my ST 4000 plus steer a course unattended based on transfer 
>>>>> >data 
>>>>> >from my chart plotter. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> I wonder if that was what Autohelm was thinking, they seem to use the 
>>>>> fluxgate compass.
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> > Curt ? it?s been my experience that pretty much NO equipment uses the 
>>>>> > same color wire for the same thing, even among equipment from the same 
>>>>> > manufacturer.  
>>>>> >You need to connect the NMEA0183 output wires from the GPS to the 
>>>>> >NMEA0183 input wires on the > autopilot; TX+ and TX- on the Garmin to 
>>>>> >RX+ and RX- on the Raymarine.
>>>>> >I can guarantee that the chances of any two of these wires having common 
>>>>> >colors is about zero. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Supposedly the + is Red and - is Blue, however Autohelm agrees with you. 
>>>>> They are marked + and - only.
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Michael Brown
>>>>> Windburn
>>>>> C&C 30-1 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
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>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -- 
>>>> At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much.
>>>> -  Robin Lee Graham
>>>> 
>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much.
>>> -  Robin Lee Graham
>>> 
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> 
> 
> -- 
> At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much.
> -  Robin Lee Graham
> 
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