Curtis, your ohm meter likely wont show anything. Plug it into the instrument to test it.
Rich > On Jan 14, 2014, at 8:31, Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com> wrote: > > I worked with the paddle wheel last night ad was able to clean it. It now > spins freely but shows however it still has no activity on the ohms meter. > All that being said, how much does this speed help you anyway? I mean it will > tell me how fast the river is passing under my boat but not if I’m making > speed? The GPS tells me distance over the ground, I have been sailing real > good before and not making much distance over the ground. What are your > thoughts on this? I will hook it back up and try it tonight after work. But > if there is no activity on the meter It may have a bad wire or something. > > Thanks for you guys helping me out. I take no offence I know I’m green at all > of this and expect a bit of new guy jokes and slapping around. It’s all good > with me I’m just glad to have someone to ask help from. I am very glad you > guys are her. > > Curtis > > > >> On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 1:08 AM, Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> wrote: >> I had to knock the pin out of my paddlewheel and replace the wheel and the >> pin, since I had whacked into something hard and it stopped working, pretty >> much. Bent the pin, knocked one of the lobes off the paddlewheel. Then I put >> the new paddlewheel on backwards, and it worked well enough since I had a >> nice straight pin, but it took a lot of calibrating. I noticed sometime the >> next year. >> >> It's a steep learning curve. >> >> Jim Watts >> Paradigm Shift >> C&C 35 Mk III >> Victoria, BC >> >> >>> On 13 January 2014 22:02, Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote: >>> Hi Curtis. >>> >>> Apologies for sounding frustrated. You are asking some simple questions for >>> which there are relatively complex answers. I appreciate where you are as >>> it's a place where most of us have been at one point, but it's so long ago >>> we have forgotten:) I think we are all trying to answer your questions with >>> the best we have to offer. I was under the mistaken impression that you did >>> not have the manuals for the gear. Sorry! Bear with us. We all have the >>> best of intentions! >>> >>> I looks like you have a well equipped boat, even if the gear is not brand >>> new. A couple of comments: >>> >>> If your paddlewheel on your speed/temp transducer is not turning freely, >>> you should be able to remove it inside the boat and push the paddle wheel >>> shaft out to remove the wheel, clean it up, and get it going freely. If >>> your boat is in the water, you can still pull the transducer out as long as >>> you are prepared for a short spurt of water until you get a plug or the >>> dummy transducer in the hole. The lack of continuity, however you are >>> measuring it, may or may not mean anything. Try getting it rotating freely >>> and spin it while it's in the boat to see if it's registering on your >>> knotmeter. >>> >>> If the wind vane is working ok, you should be able to tie it into the >>> autohelm and use it as a steering sensor. Your manuals should tell you how. >>> >>> Don't give up! We're here to help you out, and annoy the hell out of you >>> occasionally just to get even:) >>> >>> Cheers. >>> >>> Rich Knowles >>> INDIGO LF38 >>> Halifax, NS. >>> >>> >>> On Jan 13, 2014, at 11:09 PM, Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>> Rich, >>> >>> I have read and continue to read the manuals for all this equipment. I note >>> a bit of frustration with regards’ to my lack of understanding of this >>> equipment. I have only owned my C&C30 for a couple of years now, The boat >>> came with a lot of st50 auto-helm equipment >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> 1) Tri-data >>> >>> 2) VMG >>> >>> 3) ST4000 >>> >>> 4) Wind >>> >>> 5) Multi >>> >>> 6) Speed Trim >>> >>> 7) NAV-Data >>> >>> 8) I also have a 36” pole with a wind feather on the top of it? Z159 >>> >>> >>> Transducers’= (wind speed true/app Direction) >>> >>> (Water speed paddle wheel) >>> >>> (Depth temp) >>> >>> (Wind angle? Z159) >>> >>> (Fluxgate) >>> >>> >>> Everything seams to power up, but the paddlewheel will not turn freely. And >>> there is no continuity in the cable? So, it’s fair to say the speed trans >>> is no good. >>> >>> The fluxgate I was able to swing in as the “Manual” instructed. I’m able to >>> set the clutch in place and hold the boat at the heading I point it at >>> using the st4000 so I know that works. But reading the above makes sense >>> that it would be independent of the Garmin GPS. However I was told that’s >>> what makes the system so cool is It would follow a courts set by gps. If I >>> read Schiller’s post correctly I could set it to receive the wind vane so I >>> might steer a wind angle? Now that would be progress. >>> >>> >>> Moving forward I will hook back up the Fluxgate compass and reconsider what >>> else? >>> >>> >>> Thanks again its just so much to take in for someone that has never been >>> involved in marine electronics and new to boat ownership as well. >>> >>> I will get it. It just may take me more time than I was hoping for. >>> >>> Thanks again for all the advice and help. With out you guys I would >>> flounder for months on this stuff. Maybe I should just cut it all loose >>> and e-bay it. Just use the Garmin and the depth sounder. It would be a way >>> to watch both ends of the boat in close anchorages. >>> >>> Cheers, Curtis >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 4:26 PM, Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote: >>>> Curtis: >>>> >>>> The fluxgate compass is the primary source of heading information for the >>>> autopilot head and should not be disconnected. >>>> >>>> When you push the "AUTO" button, the course computer locks on to the >>>> compass heading the boat is on and develops internal correcting signals as >>>> the boat yaws to either side of the original heading and uses those >>>> cross-track error signals to drive the wheel and hold the course steady. >>>> Once properly set up, the course holding abilities of the ST4000 are quite >>>> good and you should be on a constant course in the direction originally >>>> set. This way of using the ST4000 is the standard way of operating. It's >>>> just fine for relatively short legs but, as it only uses the boat's >>>> heading as a reference, it cannot compensate for current or leeway of the >>>> boat. In other words, you could be doing 220 deg for several hours and be >>>> miles of your intended destination if a cross current caused by tide has >>>> pushed you away from the rhumb line. >>>> >>>> To avoid getting pushed off course by factors that the fluxgate compass >>>> cannot measure or compensate for, an external source of cross-track error >>>> signals is needed that uses the final destination point as the reference >>>> from which to calculate whether course correction is needed. >>>> >>>> When you have a "GO TO" destination set up and activated on the GPS unit, >>>> the GPS will develop off course signals that can be used by the auto helm >>>> computer to steer the boat to the destination. That information is >>>> delivered to the ST4000 via the NMEA signals. >>>> >>>> Pardon me if you are aware of this already. I strongly recommend reading >>>> the manuals and, if there are terms that are unclear, Google them up. >>>> >>>> Hook that compass up and RTFM! >>>> >>>> Rich Knowles >>>> INDIGO LF38 >>>> Halifax, NS. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Jan 13, 2014, at 4:26 PM, Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>> I have a flux gate compass I disconnected it from the head because I >>>> thought the auto-pilot head would now get its heading from the GPS unit? >>>> >>>> So I will take some photos and show you what I have. >>>> >>>> How will I ever nap a nap in??? >>>> >>>> >>>>> On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 2:19 PM, Michael Brown <m...@tkg.ca> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >Though something to consider is that the 0183 standard is for a total of >>>>> >4 >>>>> >wires to send and recieve. RX+GND and TX+GND. I didn't see where you >>>>> >mentioned all those wires...sounded like too few. >>>>> >>>>> The ST4000 control head is NMEA IN only, two wires marks - +. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> > >>>>> > So now, If I understand you correctly. I first have to create a route >>>>> > then to >>>>> > start navigating a course or to a way-point. That should start >>>>> > broadcasting a course to steer signal. then I in-gauge the st4000 by >>>>> > pressing the +10 and -10 at the same time and it should start taking >>>>> > direction from the Garmin? >>>>> > does this sound correct? >>>>> > >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> With NEMA to the ST4000 it depends on what is being sent. Autohelm >>>>> describes two >>>>> scenarios, automatic acquisition and manual acquisition. >>>>> >>>>> Automatic - both cross track error and bearing to waypoint are sent >>>>> Manual - only cross track error is sent >>>>> >>>>> With automatic get everything engaged and press +10 and -10 together. The >>>>> manual >>>>> requires that you get on course withing 5 degrees of the bearing to the >>>>> waypoint and >>>>> cross track less than 0.1 nm, then press +10 and -10 together. >>>>> >>>>> My guess is, and strictly a guess, is that the ST4000 uses its own >>>>> fluxgate compass >>>>> for navigation and takes some error correction from NEMA for cross track. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >I know it has probably been done by others but I am not sure that I >>>>> >would >>>>> >ever let my ST 4000 plus steer a course unattended based on transfer >>>>> >data >>>>> >from my chart plotter. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> I wonder if that was what Autohelm was thinking, they seem to use the >>>>> fluxgate compass. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> > Curt ? it?s been my experience that pretty much NO equipment uses the >>>>> > same color wire for the same thing, even among equipment from the same >>>>> > manufacturer. >>>>> >You need to connect the NMEA0183 output wires from the GPS to the >>>>> >NMEA0183 input wires on the > autopilot; TX+ and TX- on the Garmin to >>>>> >RX+ and RX- on the Raymarine. >>>>> >I can guarantee that the chances of any two of these wires having common >>>>> >colors is about zero. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Supposedly the + is Red and - is Blue, however Autohelm agrees with you. >>>>> They are marked + and - only. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Michael Brown >>>>> Windburn >>>>> C&C 30-1 >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >>>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much. >>>> - Robin Lee Graham >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> -- >>> At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much. >>> - Robin Lee Graham >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> > > > > -- > At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much. > - Robin Lee Graham > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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