Hi Allen, I did this myself last year and had a few surprises along the way. First, the nuts were rather thin and mounted with not too wide washers, a light flare on my socket prevented the socket to properly grab the nut... I had to use pliers from below to keep the nut in place and drill the teck plugs from the handrail and use a screwdriver from the top. Trying to turn the nut using the pliers would simply result in the screw turning freely.
When putting the handrail back I reused the same hardware (silly me!). I then discovered that the screws had all been cut to custom lengths but not properly filled. I had to test different screws in different positions and had a hard time getting the nuts to grab the threads that had been damaged by the cut... All this trying to cope with 4200 oozing from the screw. Next time, I would do a complete dry-assembly before putting any 4200. I would probably favour using butyl tape. I would change all the hardware, making sure the nuts could be conveniently removed. I would explore embedding square head screws in the hand rails and permanently seal the top of the screws, that would allow me to do all refinishing in my basement over the winter. cheers, Sébastien Lemieux Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987 Mooney Bay - Lake Champlain On Nov 21, 2012, at 8:17, allen wrote: > Another question. I am going to remove the cabin handrails to refinish and > rebed them. When I pop off the cabin headliner access coverlets ( they're > big enough to admit a socket on an extension) I can see I'll need a deep well > socket to unscrew the nuts. What size deep well socket is required?
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