This is fascinating, I built my wife's Platypus with brass ferrules on all
the cables. I'll have to pay attention to them and probably hit the contact
points with aluminum with grease soon. We live in Rhode Island so the
weather isn't on our side when it comes to slowing corrosion.
On Friday, S
I've been looking into this more for fun - because why not?
It seems like using a non metallic barrier (aka) grease may be preferable
to metallic such as copper or aluminum. Wax may also work well too. At the
end of the day most answers were referred to regular maintenance especially
in wet cl
Good coverage here. I stopped using brass bits on bikes a few years ago
after a single brass ferrule issue, and I always wondered if anyone else
had issues as the rise of brass bling took hold in recent years.
On Thursday, September 5, 2024 at 10:44:41 AM UTC-4 Jim in Mpls wrote:
> I also greas
I also grease the cable heads(which I believe are zinc?) to help prevent
seizing in the shifter bodies.
Jim in Mpls
On Thursday, September 5, 2024 at 8:30:50 AM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
> Thanks to everyone for your replies and notes on galvanic corrosion and
> otherwise!
>
> I haven't
Thanks to everyone for your replies and notes on galvanic corrosion and
otherwise!
I haven't greased any of my brass ferrules. I did liberally grease my brass
Blue Lug crank caps, tho. I have considered greasing them or coating them
with some Renaissance Wax which certainly couldn't hurt but I
citing another instance of brass ferrule stuck in a deore RD, this time in
NYC (where summers and winters can both be humid)
On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 6:41:25 PM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:
>
> Hey eric,
>
> Yeah ive had similar issues. Had a mildly stuck cable end in a silver 2,
> think i wa
Hey eric,
Yeah ive had similar issues. Had a mildly stuck cable end in a silver 2,
think i was able to get it out with a needle and small hammer, basically
punched it out. Noticed the brass ferrule corrosion too. I’m still working
through a stash of them, but ive also been getting over my bra
Thanks for the write-up Eric. I'll give my brass parts a once over a couple
times a year after reading this. Did you grease your ferrule exteriors
before installing?
I typically give any brass part a liberal greasing before installing, which
in theory should help prevent, or at least slow galvanic
@Patrick, perhaps these kind of products...
https://www.cytech.training/uploaded_files/study_documents/7.%20Lubricants%20and%20Greases.pdf
...suggesting a copper-based grease to be used between dissimilar metals.
This seems like a prevention of the symptom (corrosion) rather than the
cause (us
A friend swore off the brass self extractors (White Industries, Blue Lug, Etc.) for exactly these same reasons. He’s been encouraging me to do the same for over a year now.I really should replace the two sets I have, even here in arid Southern California.P. W.~(917) 514-2207~On Sep 4, 2024, at 1:29
h. This got me thinking about my beloved Blue Lug brass crank caps on
my riv silver cranks - especially living in the pacific northwest.
Curious of ample grease and yearly teardown will prevent the galvanic
corrosion.
On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 1:29:48 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrot
Realized that the bar end mount for the Silver shifter on the Hillborne
wasn't working for me. Mechanically it was fine, just have grown out of the
habit of bar-ends. Plus, I wanted to try different grips (Ergon) that would
be a pain to modify for the shifter.
So, after some searching through t
I have the new version 2 Silvers on my Atlantis. The right one works fine
but the left one seems overly fussy. I'm wondering if the FD has more
resistance or a stronger spring than the RD? Naturally, I've checked out
all the usual suspects & everything is good. Installed new cables with the
Shoulda updated y'all!!
*> And I had incorrectly run the cable at the pinch bolt. I had been going
under the tab, I needed to go over top the tab (consulted installation
manual and some forums). This changed the leverage a bit to my advantage*
Yes, I actually did the *sme *thing. Once I ru
Installed Silver (v1) shifters on Shimano pods last night/this morning. I
had a problem very similar to what Nikko described above. The lever for the
rear derailleur worked like a dream. But the one operating the front mech
was difficult to use.
Surly LHT, Albatross bars, Shimano pods. Front d
Nikko – I'm having the same problem with a set of Silvers I installed
today. Anything improve your shifting?
On Tuesday, October 6, 2020 at 8:32:24 PM UTC-4 Nikko in Oakland wrote:
> Hey Sam,
>
> I just got some brand new Silver Shifters (v1) today that I put on with
> some VO thumbies. I'm h
I second the N+1 for the cassette cog count to the chain. I have a Shimano
9 speed cassette and a 10 speed SRAM chain ( PC-1031), work very well
together with my Suntour down tube shifters. RD shifter stays put, but the
FD shifter comes loose with frequent shifting. I just keep tightening the D
BTW, the finicky chain tracking is not necessarily related to slipping
shifters; I've had it happen with shifters that never slipped. But for
slipping, to repeat it again, loudly: blue Loctite fixed my Silvers as it
did the old Campy Record DT shifters that are notorious for loosening, and
that I u
Again, blue Loctite solved the slipping problem with my first gen Silver
BES.
On Thu, Oct 8, 2020 at 7:50 AM lambbo wrote:
> Nikko, I've had the same problem with my Silver 2 Shifters...very handsome
> but (besides immediate rusting on the bolts) they just don't really work -
> I have to tighten
I've experienced finicky chain tracking myself on the middle cogs, but I've
found one can replace the troublesome cogs with others of the same size
that aren't as finicky. Even better, my most recent cassette, built out of
real Miche 10-speed cogs (instead of 7, 8, and 9 speed leftovers from my
cog
Nikko, I've had the same problem with my Silver 2 Shifters...very handsome
but (besides immediate rusting on the bolts) they just don't really work -
I have to tighten them so much that they're hard to shift, and then they
slip back again a few shifts later. I don't have this problem with my ol
Note that if you use brake housing or non-index shifter cable housing for
your shifter cable housing, it can cause derailleur movement under load and
when turning if your shifters are bar or stem mounted. This was not of
concern back when freewheels had five (yes I am old) or six widely spaced
FWIW, I've noticed on my 9sp 12-36 cassette the middle cogs in
particular have to spot-on with the chain in order to hold the gear.
Contrast that to my Sachs 7sp FW that offers a whole lotta leeway in that
regard. The cassette cogs are so contoured/shaped to facilitate ease of
shifts with
It sounds like it may be worthwhile for you to have a good mechanic inspect
your setup. Diagnosis shouldn't take long for a good mechanic.
Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
On Wednesday, October 7, 2020 at 10:06:11 AM UTC-7 Sam Perez wrote:
> Interesting perhaps it's also somthing else in the driv
Interesting perhaps it's also somthing else in the drivetrain. Like the
cassette? I have had the bike for 8 years but this one was seldom used.
Let's see if the locktight not only helps with lever slip but with the
pedals free spinning for a quarter revolution at random times, as a
possible slip sy
Sam: FWIW, I used my Silvers, original version, with an old 8-speed-era XT
rd as well as several others; I didin't notice that slippage was worse with
the XT than with the Dura Ace or Microshift or LX reverse pull, but at any
rate, blue Loctite kept the lever firm with all these derailleurs.
(And,
I'm begining to think the xt rear derailleur has a big part in it. It's a
thick steel mt bike frame I'm sure flex has a minor part bc I tried to
slowly crank up a hill without leveraging the bars as to not flex the bike,
and the silver shifter slipped to the next gear. After a few shifts it only
Hey Sam,
I just got some brand new Silver Shifters (v1) today that I put on with
some VO thumbies. I'm having a similar-ish problem and wondering if you're
experiencing the same, but more along the lines of the problem J L
mentioned (spring return) .
My problem is that the shifting for the front
Note that the levers would loosen and slip even when the plastic tension
washers were whole. Blue Loctite solved the slipping problem but not the
washer breakage (or shifter body breakage) problem.
On Tue, Oct 6, 2020 at 5:30 PM Patrick Moore wrote:
> I applied blue Loctite to the tension bolts,
I applied blue Loctite to the tension bolts, and this worked. But the need
to do this, and my experience of breaking 2 right-side Silver shifter
bodies when my bikes fell over, took me back to the old Suntour Bar Cons --
where I have to use blue Loctite anyway to ensure that the shiny and very
hard
Some derailers have a stronger return spring than others. I would put it
further down the list, though.
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Maybe add a little blue loctite or beeswax to the bolts.
Clayton Scott
HBG, CA
On Tuesday, October 6, 2020 at 2:09:27 PM UTC-7, Sam Perez wrote:
>
> It's the original silver shifters , they were in storage and not used
> untill now. The washers seem okay but I'll look into the new ones .
>
> On
It's the original silver shifters , they were in storage and not used
untill now. The washers seem okay but I'll look into the new ones .
On Tue, Oct 6, 2020, 8:56 AM Jay Lonner wrote:
> Are these OG Silvers or Silver Mk II? I several sets of the originals (and
> the the Suntour Sprints they wer
Are these OG Silvers or Silver Mk II? I several sets of the originals (and the
the Suntour Sprints they were based on) and the weak point in the system is the
little plastic washer that sits right under the bolt. If that’s cracked or
missing you won’t be able to snug things down enough. Luckily
hi guys, how do you keep your silver shifters form slipping under load, i
tighten the retention bolt but when i play with it it slowly loosens with
multiple shifts, i do lots of hills and need confidence that i wont ghost
shift under load.
thanks
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The backing plate is still there but this could have been what happened to
loosen it all up inside. Good suggestion.
Jason
> On May 18, 2020, at 5:32 AM, Ginz wrote:
>
> I once destroyed one by sneaking the shifter off without loosening the cable
> when swapping brake levers. The metal plate
Most I've used (lots) have varying degrees of wiggliness in them. I used to
worry about it until I realized I only noticed it at home fiddling with the
bike; while riding they just shift and away I go!
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I once destroyed one by sneaking the shifter off without loosening the cable
when swapping brake levers. The metal plate that covers the ratchet came loose
and it was ruined. Is that what’s happening in there? They don’t necessarily
last forever, unfortunately
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Hello everyone,
I have had a few sets of silver shifter #1. Every now and then one of them has
excessive play in the internals. Thicker washers don't help. Tightening it
doesn't help. Does anyone have a trick for these to help adjust the tolerance?
It feels as if the internals are clamped tight
any of you live near walnut creekers have intelligence on arrival of thumb
mounts for silver shifter 2's which I bought months ago.
is there a workaround with other mounts? got a bike at the shop now and
would like to put the silver 2's on a bullmoose bar.
thanks for any advice.
--
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Hi Jason,
The silver adapter is a small baseplate that slips between the flat, squared
base of the shimano thumbies and the silver shifter... It looks like downtube
shifter mounts with the protruding cylinder with flats. I’d consider selling
mine except my wife who had been using my Silver shi
Hello, I have an older (non-hinged) pair of Paul thumbies for Shimano
shifters. I'd like to use Dia-Compe (Silver) friction shift levers on the
mounts. I know Riv used to sell an adapter to make this work, but I don't
believe it's available on their site any longer. Does anyone know which
pie
I’m using them on an 3x8-speed Hillborne with Albatross bars and they’re
working out great on the outside of the bars. I did try them on the inside of
the grips and didn’t like the way the cable ran under front curve of the bars
since I like that as a second grip area. They are very long (comp
Yep. Works great.
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Happy New Year all!
Has anyone on the list used a Silver shifter with adapter and Paul Thumbie
combination? If so, how did you like it?
Thanks very much for your advice.
Best regards,
Richard
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Interesting piece on the blug about the Silver Shifter 2 project coming
back to life. Prototypes in house at RBWHQ, with photos.
"It’ll work fine on the downtube and better (than ever, than original
SILVER shifters) as a thumby or a bar-end shifter, because of the new
shape, heavily influenc
I hear ya, Bill. After I sent this I started thinking about getting
thumbshifters for that bar and putting the bar-ends back on the Noodles I just
removed. I have cable splitters on my Appaloosa now, so I can put a second set
on the Noodles and have both cockpits ready to swap when the mood hits
Moving the shifters to thumbies or to the stem could also alleviate the
problem, I suppose. In extreme switchbacks, you might still get yourself
with the handlebar end, though.
On Thursday, August 18, 2016 at 12:43:04 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Well then you are more adept at doing swit
I only use drop bars.
On 08/18/2016 03:43 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:
Well then you are more adept at doing switchback turns with bar-ends on a
Choco-Moose bar than I. Those Rustine thingies look like they'll work.
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Well then you are more adept at doing switchback turns with bar-ends on a
Choco-Moose bar than I. Those Rustine thingies look like they'll work.
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I've never jammed one into my leg, and can't imagine covering it with
anything.
On 08/18/2016 02:16 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:
Them babies sure do hurt when they jam into your leg. What are folks using to
cover them?
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Them babies sure do hurt when they jam into your leg. What are folks using to
cover them?
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The same thing happened to me, alas, but on the right side, too.
BUT: I was surprised to find in my stash a right side Silver shifter
complete EXCEPT for the little spring/prong/pawl that slides up against the
ratchets. If you still have that little thing you are welcome to the rest
of the kit tha
This may be a long shot but I'm wondering if anybody out there happens to have
just a right side silver shifter? I had my bike leaned up against a picnic
table a couple of months back and the wind took it and blew it over. Bike
landed on the drivetrain side and my beloved new silver shifter snap
I have had a left side Silver Shifter in my parts box for years (the right one
is operating the drag brake on my tandem) and I went to install it today on my
Rambo and the screw with d-ring is missing. Any body have one that will work?
Original RIv part or anything else with a d-ring that will
Thanks for your advice JL! I actually placed a call to Mark over at RBW
and he suggested the same fix. So simple..who knew...not me?! LOL
Thanks again! I'll surely remember this remedy the next time this happens!
On Thursday, May 17, 2012 7:38:55 PM UTC-4, JL wrote:
>
> Noel, the fix should
Noel, the fix should be an easy one. Simply tighten the shifter lever by
turning the little bolt on the side clockwise. A quarter turn should do
it.Different derailers have stronger or weaker springs. Sometimes this
leads to needing a shifter adjustment.
Jl
On May 17, 2012 4:14 PM, "Noel M."
Hi everyone!
I've had my AHH for a couple of weeks now. I have Silver bar end shifters
and the Microshift front derailleur. I was going out for a quick ride this
morning when I noticed that my left shifter (front derailleur shifter) was
pointing straight down which moved the chain to the smal
I should've read the posts regarding this before I purchased SIlver
downtube shifters to use with my Shimano bar end shifter pods.
As many of you know the shifters come with a round washer with a
square hole that has a little tab on it that acts as a shifter stop
when mounted on a downtube boss.
Bu
Last night I gave a hard frustrated whack to a stuck bar-end pod and
the shifter itself broke apart into a number of parts - oops. I can't
figure out how to put it back together, but I swore somewhere I've
seen a break apart diagram of how the shifter itself works. Does
anyone have that diagram or
Between my wife and I, we have four bikes with silver shifters, two DT
and two BE. The DT shifters can be set with a very light touch and
hold that position without any loosening and skipping. However the
two BE need to be tightened down to a point where the shifting is much
stiffer, and sill I f
Would the same greasing of the cable head apply to Shimano's bar end
shifters as well?
On 12/5/09, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
> I recommend greasing the cable head before installation.
>
> On Dec 5, 5:39 pm, stevep33 wrote:
>> Has anyone had trouble removing a derailleur cable from a Si
rm or deny this?
cheers,
Andrew
From: stevep33
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Sent: Sat, December 5, 2009 3:39:15 PM
Subject: [RBW] Silver shifter problem
Has anyone had trouble removing a derailleur cable from a Silver
downtube shift lever? I was changing my cables toda
Just a dab of grease next time. Probably seized. Perhaps you could have
drilled out the cable head to loosen it. I like DTs as well, but never had
that problem.
--- On Sat, 12/5/09, stevep33 wrote:
From: stevep33
Subject: [RBW] Silver shifter problem
To: "RBW Owners Bunch"
Date
Has anyone had trouble removing a derailleur cable from a Silver
downtube shift lever? I was changing my cables today and found that
the head of the cable is stuck in the shift lever hole. I tried
everything to remove it, and I think I pretty much destroyed the
shifter in the process.
I like how
A question when reassembling the Silvers. There's a washer. One side
is flat and the other appears rounded. Does it matter which side it
faces? Thanks.
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I recently moved my Silver barend shifters to the downtube. I like
the setup just fine, but I was getting ghost shifts on the front and
rear when I stand and crank out of the saddle (no problems ever with
the setup as barends). I know others have had similar issues, and so
before posting questio
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