citing another instance of brass ferrule stuck in a deore RD, this time in 
NYC (where summers and winters can both be humid)
On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 6:41:25 PM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:

>
> Hey eric, 
>
> Yeah ive had similar issues. Had a mildly stuck cable end in a silver 2, 
> think i was able to get it out with a needle and small hammer, basically 
> punched it out. Noticed the brass ferrule corrosion too. I’m still working 
> through a stash of them, but ive also been getting over my brass preference 
> in favor of lightweight aluminum where reasonable, like headset spacers. 
> I’ll have to check my brass crank extractor caps as mentioned by others…
> On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 2:17:25 PM UTC-7 Danny wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the write-up Eric. I'll give my brass parts a once over a 
>> couple times a year after reading this. Did you grease your ferrule 
>> exteriors before installing?
>>
>> I typically give any brass part a liberal greasing before installing, 
>> which in theory should help prevent, or at least slow galvanic corrosion. 
>> But maybe areas that see more moisture like crank caps/extractors need more 
>> frequent attention.
>>
>> -Danny
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Sep 4, 2024 at 4:07 PM AppaLanta <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> @Patrick, perhaps these kind of products...
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.cytech.training/uploaded_files/study_documents/7.%20Lubricants%20and%20Greases.pdf
>>>
>>> ...suggesting a copper-based grease to be used between dissimilar 
>>> metals.  This seems like a prevention of the symptom (corrosion) rather 
>>> than the cause (using dissimilar metals when similar could be used in the 
>>> first place)?
>>>
>>> @Eric, thanks for this post.  I forgot to say - I really appreciate your 
>>> videos!
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 4:45:27 PM UTC-4 [email protected] 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A friend swore off the brass self extractors (White Industries, Blue 
>>>> Lug, Etc.) for exactly these same reasons. 
>>>>
>>>> He’s been encouraging me to do the same for over a year now.
>>>>
>>>> I really should replace the two sets I have, even here in arid Southern 
>>>> California.
>>>>
>>>> P. W.
>>>> ~
>>>> (917) 514-2207
>>>> ~
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Sep 4, 2024, at 1:29 PM, Patrick Moore <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> 
>>>>
>>>> Eric: Thanks for the clear and comprehensive description and the 
>>>> warning about brass-on-aluminum.
>>>>
>>>> Remark: I am so very glad that high humidity where I live is 50% and 
>>>> that's seasonal and rare.
>>>>
>>>> Question (to all): are there not marine greases or applications made 
>>>> precisely to prevent such corrosion?
>>>>
>>>> Patrick Moore, who had a very nice late "monsoon" mid-afternoon ride 
>>>> just now at an about-normal 90*F and 23% humidity in a very comfortable ss 
>>>> wool jersey.
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Sep 4, 2024 at 9:58 AM Eric Marth <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> *Before we begin I must admit that I should have documented the process 
>>>>> below in greater detail. I realize it would have made for video content 
>>>>> that at least a few people here would have found worthwhile. This 
>>>>> mechanical occurred as I was trying to sneak in a 90 minute ride before 
>>>>> it 
>>>>> got dark and I was determined to get it resolved as quickly as I could 
>>>>> without stopping for pictures or documentation. *
>>>>>
>>>>> *I have a few questions about the problems I encountered. Rather than 
>>>>> searching the Web for answers I've included my questions below, hopeful 
>>>>> that forum members can share their knowledge. In addition to expertise on 
>>>>> bicycles I'm aware that some members are scientists and engineers who 
>>>>> might 
>>>>> have fun pockets of information to share with the group. *
>>>>>
>>>>> I run Silver bar end shifters on my Sam Hillborne. Recently I left for 
>>>>> a ride and once I got a few blocks from my house I realized the front 
>>>>> derailer was rubbing the chain. When I went to trim the gear the shift 
>>>>> lever slipped into the relaxed position and dropped the chain to the 
>>>>> small 
>>>>> ring up front. I tightened the wingnut to restore tension but there was 
>>>>> no 
>>>>> tension to be found. I had an idea of what was going on: the ratchet was 
>>>>> clogged with corrosion, preventing the spring from engaging the pawl. I 
>>>>> rode home in a very easy gear. 
>>>>>
>>>>> Back in the shop I loosened the clamp bolt on the front derailer to 
>>>>> free the cable. When I went to pull the cable out of the shifter lever it 
>>>>> wouldn't budge. The head of the shifter cable had chemically bonded to 
>>>>> the 
>>>>> lever itself. I removed the nuts and bolts that hold the lever to the 
>>>>> bar-end shifter pod. I should note that I had previously replaced the 
>>>>> external plastic nut cover with a brass counter-sink washer. I think the 
>>>>> presence of the brass encouraged corrosion. I then struggled to get the 
>>>>> cable out even with the lever freed from the pod. 
>>>>>
>>>>> I then noticed that the brass ferrule I'd used at the end of the shift 
>>>>> cable housing had bonded to the bar-end pod. I now had two instances of 
>>>>> dissimilar metals bonding together. 
>>>>>
>>>>> I snipped the shift cable, pinched the loose end with pliers and tried 
>>>>> to wiggle and finesse it free. No luck! I tried to drill out the head of 
>>>>> the cable, that also didn't work. I decided to abandon the shifter and 
>>>>> salvage the innards for parts. 
>>>>>
>>>>> <IMG_2311.JPG>
>>>>>    
>>>>> <IMG_2309.JPG>
>>>>>
>>>>> *Terrible pictures showing drilled head of shifter cable and snipped 
>>>>> off cable stuck in lever.*
>>>>>
>>>>> I store my bikes in my shed, an unconditioned and uninsulated space in 
>>>>> Virginia. It is very humid here. The spot where I hang my Hillborne seems 
>>>>> to attract a lot of moisture and I really need to find another place to 
>>>>> store that bike. Sometimes when it rains the handlebars feel damp and 
>>>>> corrosion forms around the seatpost collar, on the chaingring bolts and 
>>>>> the 
>>>>> rear dropouts. The roof of my shed does not leak. I think the rust 
>>>>> accumulation has to do with ventilation issues and related to the bicycle 
>>>>> hanging between a door and a window, there must be some kind of draft 
>>>>> situation going on and that spot is a real moisture magnet. I don't have 
>>>>> the same problem with other bikes I hang in adjacent spots. 
>>>>>
>>>>> *What causes the shifter cable head to bond to the lever? What 
>>>>> materials are the shifter cable head and Silver shifter levers made from? 
>>>>> Do the dissimilar metals encourage bonding when moisture is present? What 
>>>>> causes the brass to bond to the bar-end shifter pod?*
>>>>>
>>>>> In my video about repairing Pam's Silver shifters 
>>>>> <https://youtu.be/0g67pjAPYZk?si=KxIEpojn7V_bcoUy> I mentioned 
>>>>> corrosion as a potential problem with a Silver shifter that doesn't hold 
>>>>> tension. Here was an opportunity to show the world! I was frustrated and 
>>>>> eager to get it fixed quickly. Setting up to make a video really bogs 
>>>>> things down. 
>>>>>
>>>>> I took the lever with the cold-welded shifter cable stuck inside and 
>>>>> pried it open. Indeed, the spring was clogged with corrosion. The 
>>>>> corrosion 
>>>>> was chalky and white, resembling the type of build up sometimes seen on 
>>>>> car 
>>>>> battery terminals. With the spring clogged it won't push against the pawl 
>>>>> which won't hold position on the ratchet wheel which won't allow the 
>>>>> lever 
>>>>> to hold tension to counteract the spring action of the derailer. 
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks to board member Mike Godwin, who sent me some old Suntour 
>>>>> levers to help repair Pam's shifters, I had some extra parts around. 
>>>>> Shifter bodies (one good, one broken), spare cover plates and some 
>>>>> ratchet 
>>>>> wheels. I also had replacement springs I'd ordered from McMaster-Carr. I 
>>>>> mated one of the Suntour levers from Mike with parts from my damaged 
>>>>> lever 
>>>>> and got them put back together. Pinching the parts together I could tell 
>>>>> the ratchet was working. I set it aside to work on the shifter pod. 
>>>>>
>>>>> <IMG_2312.JPG>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> The brass ferrule had welded to the pod. I tried to pull it out with 
>>>>> pliers. No luck. I'd encountered a welded brass ferrule before so I was 
>>>>> relatively sure before I started that I wouldn't get it freed. I've heard 
>>>>> that squelching is one method that sometimes works to free welded parts 
>>>>> but 
>>>>> I didn't have the means or patience to heat the parts. So instead I 
>>>>> decided 
>>>>> to saw off the ferrule and file it flush with the pod. I could run the 
>>>>> shifter cable into the remnant of the ferrule. 
>>>>>
>>>>> <IMG_2308.JPG>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> With the ferrule flushed up I reinstalled the pod in conjunction with 
>>>>> seating the shifter cable. I installed a new shift cable and re-installed 
>>>>> the newly rebuilt shifter lever. 
>>>>>
>>>>> <IMG_2313.JPG>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I got the shifter wired up and everything worked as intended. 
>>>>>
>>>>> I have a newfound reluctance to use brass parts going forward. While 
>>>>> my love of brass is well documented in my builds it has caused me several 
>>>>> problems over a short few years. Twice my bar-end shifters have stopped 
>>>>> working, I believe due to corrosion encouraged by the presence of brass 
>>>>> and 
>>>>> the contact between dissimilar metals. I have also twice had brass 
>>>>> ferrules 
>>>>> get welded to other parts. Here on the Hillborne it was the ferrule and 
>>>>> the 
>>>>> shifter pod. On my MB-2 it was a ferrule that welded to a Suntour brake 
>>>>> lever. 
>>>>>
>>>>> Perhaps you can use brass parts if you live in drier climes or have 
>>>>> better luck than I do. But I'm going to be phasing brass out of my bikes 
>>>>> and builds from here out. Or until I move to the desert. 
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for reading along and happy trails :0) 
>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
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>>>>>  
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>>>>> .
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -- 
>>>>
>>>> Patrick Moore
>>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>>
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>>

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