At 06:44 PM 8/4/2013, you wrote:
>Glue joints age - No real way I can think of to test 'em.
Don't be too quick to give up on your project. The glue joints in my
KR are 23+ years old and have 500 hour of flight time on them. They
are still as good as the
anufacturer would mis-label their
product for ten years.
Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Wales, WI
Visit my web site: www.flykr2s.com
E-mail: flyk...@wi.rr.com
- Original Message -
From: "JIM RALEIGH"
To: "KRnet"
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 3:16 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Glue
I have 2 kits of T-88 from ACS, and both say 50-50 mixis that really
incorrect?
Nick
nickdbren...@comcast.net
- Original Message -
From: "JIM RALEIGH"
To: "KRnet"
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 1:16 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Glue Joints not holding
>
> o
Netters,
My T-88 instructions say to use a 50-50 mix, not three parts resin to 1 part
hardner. I have never had a problem using the 50-50 mix.
Jim Morehead
Cameron Park, CA
N522PC
JIM RALEIGH wrote:
Most of the t-88 is mixed 3 parts resin to 1 part hardner. If you mix to
much hardn
- Original Message -
From: "Nick Brennan"
: Re: KR> Glue Joints not holding
>I have 2 kits of T-88 from ACS, and both say 50-50 mixis that really
> incorrect?
Who would you trust? The manufacturer of someone who does not know what he
is talking about?
Mark J
begun.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
---Original Message---
From: Nick Brennan
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 05/09/07 17:35:23
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> Glue Joints not holding
I have 2 kits of T-88 from ACS, and both say 50-50 mixis that really
incorrect?
Hi Nick;
>I have 2 kits of T-88 from ACS, and both say 50-50 mixis that really
incorrect?
No Nick, that statement is correct but it reads "mix equal parts buy volume"
on the bottle however on the Wicks site it says "Mix ratio: 100 to 83 by
weight" but doesn't say which is which, or "1 to 1
[mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Myron (Dan) Freeman
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 7:10 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> Glue Joints not holding
Hi Nick;
>I have 2 kits of T-88 from ACS, and both say 50-50 mixis that really
incorrect?
No Nick, that statement is correct but it read
--I was just wondering. If Brian would tell us if the weight ratio measurement
for mixture of T-88 is actually correct if compared to a measurement in volume
measured 50% to 50%? I used a volume mixture for the entire project but have
always wanted to do the comparison but don't have the scales.
ng Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
> -Original Message-
> From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
> Behalf Of Myron (Dan) Freeman
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 7:10 PM
> To: KRnet
> Subject: Re: KR> Glue Joints not holding
>
>
nd click on the technical data sheets.
>>
>>Brian Kraut
>>Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
>>www.engalt.com
>>
>>-Original Message-
>>From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
>>Behalf Of Myron (Dan) Freeman
>>Se
in and click on the technical data sheets.
> >>
> >>Brian Kraut
> >>Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> >>www.engalt.com
> >>
> >>-Original Message-
> >>From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
> >>B
50% to 50% BY VOLUME..!!..is te easiest way..
-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On
Behalf Of Dan Heath
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 8:08 PM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: Re: KR> Glue Joints not holding - T88
I always mix mine
Wow! having built a minimax using t88 and working on varies other
wooden projects I have never used anything other then
the squeeze method. Yes i have broken a couple of joints but they
always pull more wood then the glue.
a but-joint doesn,t have any strength until you add a gusset. Its
much
>From : cláu...@itaroca.com.br
A long time ago when building a KR-1, together with two good friends (Homero
Brandão and Matheus Abram), we did a big amount of tests regarding glued joints
using epoxi resin (in our case case Araldite - TM from Ciba Geigy).
>From tests we learned the best way
I am working on my *second* mockup of the KR2S. After finding some issues
in the first markup, I broke apart the first mockup. I was disturbed to say
the least at how the glue joints came apart.
Of all the glue joints on the sides and a hand full of the cross members,
only about 5 or so joints d
Brad
I do not understand the mix ( uniform white paste)
The T88 I have used was an amber colour, and mixed up to a honey
consistency. As Mark L says let it soak in for a short before clamping.
I'm sorry I can not be of more help, but I did not have any problems. Once
the ply is over the joint,
none of the end grain joints are very strong unless the gussets are also in
place
Garry Cowles
Santa Fe NM
** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Hi Brad.
I just took a look at the photos on your web site of your broken up practice
fuselage. You didn't support your timbers with gussets which increase the
the contact area of a joint around 6 fold (along the bottom and up the
sides). T-88 is considered among the best epoxies for the job. I
...a uniform white paste was created
Brad Payne
www.n494bp.com
bradleyspa...@gmail.com
Brad,
Sounds like you are mixing up micro spheres (balloons). That would not
be suitable as structural glue.
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com
Yes, I must say there does seem to be something wrong here. Like Phil said,
it should look like honey when mixed and gussets are a must.
Regards
Myron (Dan) Freeman
Indpls, Ind. 46203 USA. Home of the
2007 World Champion Indpls, Colt's
mfreem...@indy.rr.com
Posted - Wednesday, 04/25/07 10:19 am
To Clarify, After Mixing, my T88 is a milky off-white almost like
toothpaste. The viscosity is like thick honey. Prior to mixing the resin
is clear and thick and the hardner is the color of honey and slightly more
fluid than the resin. Sometimes it becomes slightly warm while mixing or
very sh
The T88 Gel product is supposed to be milky white, the liquid is Amber. Are you
using the Gel?
Ameet Savant
Omaha, NE
- Original Message
From: Brad Payne
To: kr...@mylist.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 8:23:22 AM
Subject: Re: KR> Glue Joints not holding
To Clarify, Af
Is T-88 the one that uses one part on one side and
the other on the second part ?? I f so then NO MIXING is necessary,
Virg
On Tue, 24 Apr 2007 22:52:06 -0400 "Brad Payne"
writes:
> I am working on my *second* mockup of the KR2S. After finding some
> issues
> in the first markup, I br
Hey there,
I have brand new System Three , T-88 , from Aircraft Spruce and has been in
the house for about a month and I just opened it last night and tried it out.
for a test I cut a 1 1/2 inch peice of 5/8 stock and a 2x3 inch of ply skin.
The two parts of T-88 are just like yours , on
It sounds like your batch of resin is NG. In my experience the resin is
thinner than the hardener.
Allen G. Wiesner KR-2SS #1118 TD/CorvAir
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT 06401
203-732-0508
allenwies...@sbcglobal.net
"It ain't over til the fat lady sings"
Brad Payne wrote:
Do you have anyone also using T88 near you or in your EAA Chapter? As with the
others, I found T88 very reliable. If it goes thermal as you use it, you know
as it is very hot. It also is a non-critical 50/50 mix and should not pose a
problem there. Could it have frozen coming in from Wicks?
--
I just opened my bottles of T88 too last week. In mine, the amber resin is
also thicker than the transparent hardener. After mixing it is a thick white
color goop. Kind of hard to spread. After drying over night, it is
transparent with little color. The box does say, the strength of the epo
The only time I have ever seem T-88 epoxy look whitish is when it is whipped
up vigorously, intrapping air in it. It should be stirred and maybe slightly
warmed so the air bubbles can escape if that is indeed what is happening.
Usually the air will escape by itself when applied to the part and s
T-88 resin is clear and the hardener is the color of honey.
My hardener is definitely a thicker consistency than the resin.
On 4/26/07, Myron (Dan) Freeman wrote:
>
> The only time I have ever seem T-88 epoxy look whitish is when it is
> whipped
> up vigorously, intrapping air in it. It shoul
, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Allen Wiesner
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 1:46 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> Glue Joints not holding
It sounds like your batch of resin is NG. In my experience the re
I've used West system epoxy for the last 10 years or so and do not have
failures. T-88 is usually reputed to be good, maybe you have a bad batch.
Hello Brad,
Well my tests are done and I'm satisfied with the results. I did try mixing
the two parts different ways but even mixing on a hard plastic surface with a
plastic stir stick, as soon as the two parts mix together they do turn a milky,
slightly yellowish color. Mix fast or slow alw
I squeeze the T-88 hardener onto a flat surface "pallet" that I am going to
mix it on. Then beside it, I squeeze the resin. I try to get the same
diameter and height circle for each. I do the hardener first because it
settles slower. I have even drawn circles on the pallet to give me something
to g
This may start a info storm on the kr net but it's my understanding that
sanding end cuts is a no no for 2 reasons. first being a fresh cut exposes
end grain of the wood and sanding knocks the exposed cut end of the
long indiviual wood fiber over and the adhesive can't wick into the cut end.
Secon
One of the properties of epoxy is it's ability to soak into the wood. As
the epoxy cures, the bonded epoxy includes the wood which had soaked up the
epoxy. I believe what you say is correct to a point, but the soaking of
epoxy into wood is completely blocked by the sanding process. On the ot
I use small, 3 oz. plastic cups available in the supermarket (Stop & Shop).
I place one on the scale and pour (squeeze) equal amounts by weight in grams
of resin and hardener into it. I then mix it up using "skinny craft sticks"
from a local craft store (hardwood, 6" x 1/4" x 1/16"). I repeate
- Original Message -
From: "Allen Wiesner "
To: "KRnet"
Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: KR> glue joints
> I use small, 3 oz. plastic cups available in the supermarket (Stop &
Shop).
> I place one on the scale and pour (squeeze) equal am
Sanding a surface makes it a poor glue joint? Try making examples of sanded and
saw cut joints and test them. There will be no appreciable difference.
Ron Smith
Kr2ssxl
Cypress Ca U.S.A.
mercedesm...@yahoo.com
http://ronsmith.myphotoalbum.com/albums.php
if you need a reference for proper gluing techniques
you'll find a back up to what has been mentioned earlier on the krnet today
in the EAA how to series " Building the Custom Aircraft With Wood volume 1
on page 20 titled " Glues And Gluing" No point in reinventing the wheel
and ignoring previous
>I also weigh out T-88, but not 1:1 ratio like you would mixing by volume.
>Since I haven't mixed it for a while, I don't remember the exact ratio, but
>I think you use slightly less hardener.
Your right, I had an attack of CRS this morning.
The correct ratio (which I have on the bottles in large
> Sanding a surface makes it a poor glue joint?
Yes, according to the FAA. and EAA sites. Sanding should be finished with a 120
grit paper if you must. BUT.
The Rand Robinson assembly manual states on page 11. Under "Fuselage Sides"
fifth paragraph down.
"...A sanding disc mounted on a table
I need some advice on T-88 glue joints. I have a disc sander made from a
wood lathe, which I use to get a perfect fit between parts, then coat both
mating surfaces with T-88, and apply light pressure, I kept a sample of the
epoxy, and a sample glue joint, which broke along the grain of the w
05 7:22 AM
Subject: KR> glue joints
>I need some advice on T-88 glue joints. I have a disc sander made from
> a wood lathe, which I use to get a perfect fit between parts, then coat
> both mating surfaces with T-88, and apply light pressure, I kept a sample
> of the epoxy, and a
Hi all,
I've started to lay the timber out ready for gluing the fuselage sides, and was
wondering, what's the best way to clean up excess glue from the joints?? Am I
better to wipe it off while still wet? or am I better to let it dry and chip
it off? Which is less messy and most successful?
Hello Gavin,
I prefer to mask around the joints with low adhesion and residue tape,
and this way simply avoid the glue clean up mess. If you do not prevent
the excess glue mess, none of the cleaning methods are any fun.
Todd Servaes
KR-2S
Gavin Donohoe wrote:
>Hi all,
>I've started to lay the
Hi Gavin.
Definetly clean up excess glue before it sets up. If you wait till it cures
and then chip if off, it's not only a lot of hard work, messy when you're
finished, and you run the risk of shattering the joint!
As for your spar, laminate it up in 1/4" sections or so. 1" thick laminates
wou
builders and pilots
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sunday, September 14, 2003 5:37:07 AM
To: KR builders and pilots
Subject: KR>Glue joints
Hi all,
I've started to lay the timber out ready for gluing the fuselage sides, and
was wondering, what's the best way to clean up excess
and pilots
Subject: Re: KR>Glue joints
Hi Gavin.
Definetly clean up excess glue before it sets up. If you wait till it cures
and then chip if off, it's not only a lot of hard work, messy when you're
finished, and you run the risk of shattering the joint!
As for your spar, laminate
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