I thought most people in the PNW don't winterize. Doug, I'm curious why is
it on your list? (especially with a heater going inside it seems unlikely
anything would freeze)
Our winter water temp is around 45F, and air temp rarely goes below 32F.
-Patrick
S/V Violet Hour
LF 38, Seattle, WA
On Mon,
Since we're on the topic of balsa core decay, I had a question about this -
having just finished resealing all the deck fill ports (diesel, waste, 3
waters) on my boat.
All had some softness in the balsa, two had obvious water ingress (in the
past) evident by black staining, minor rust on fastener
Great trip report, you should write a blog! That sounds exhausting to do
singlehanded.
Couple questions:
> 3)
Is the exhaust hose looped up? A mechanic said my exhaust loop isn't high
enough, but I've been wondering what *is* adequate? I'm guessing no loop
up is adequate in those conditions. A s
Hmm, I think you're right. I need to check what's on my vent line when back
at the boat - I thought it looked like a check valve but now I think it may
be something like the Attwood vent line surge protector (prevents fuel from
spilling out the vent line when filling the tank).
I thought it was a
I removed my Datamarine speed transducer last spring. I spent probably 3
hours trying every non-destructive method I could think of before I had to
move to destructive methods. Should have done so earlier since I didn't
need to save it anyway (was replacing with an Airmar / Raymarine triducer).
N
If you figure something out, let me know, I might be interested as well.
-Patrick
S/V Violet Hour (1984 C&C LF38)
On Tue, Dec 1, 2015 at 2:47 PM, wrote:
> From: Frederick G Street
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2015 16:35:59 -0600
> Subject: Re: Stus-List little A&H hatch
Those lenses exactly match the ones on mine. I think they're original. Mine
all have one bolt through the hinge. Paul, I had a galled / corroded bolt
on one hinge too, like the one on the right in your photo. It was
relatively easy to drill out and replace with a new 316 SS bolt. I also put
some Bo
So I'm doing a lot of projects lately, and was majorly bummed out to find
the wall between the engine compartment and the lower foot of the port aft
quarterberth has some significant rot. Frustrated because lately it feels
like every project I fix, I find a new one. And this will be a big one.
Ple
@Dave, I think you're probably right. Water could have gotten onto the
battery ledge from condensation or past engine leaks (the exhaust run was
replaced a few years ago, maybe the reason was that it was leaking). A cup
or so of standing water would just sit there until the next time the boat
was s
Good point about the engine heat / fumes. I hadn't even thought of that.
Definitely don't want to leave ventilation holes in this then. The storage
under the qtrberth shouldn't need ventilation anyway.
Thanks for the advice everyone! This project feels much more manageable
now.
-Patrick
On Tue,
Ok maybe this is a silly question, but what can a right angle grinder do
that the Fein multitool cannot? In other words why is the Fein second to
the angle grinder, when it looks to me like the Fein is a superset of angle
grinder functionality?
On Tue, Dec 8, 2015 at 5:11 PM, wrote:
> -
$119 CAD is only $87 in US dollars! Plus, since you're a Washington
resident you can get the Edge card which is $76 USD for 1 day. That's only
$7 more than Steven's Pass at $69, and Whistler has a lot more terrain. The
5 hour drive is what deters me though. Stevens had 9" of powder yesterday,
real
I'm thinking of getting a Garhauer rigid vang. Only problem - the dang
mainsheet block lead is in the way. It's mounted on deck in the standard
location a few inches behind the mast collar, then the main sheet runs
vertically up to a boom block. If I mount the boom vang to port of the main
sheet, i
I think I see what you're saying... a bit hard to visualize without
pictures. But it sounds like you moved the forwardmost deck lead to the
mast collar, and then from there to the boom you skipped / eliminated the
forward-most lead on the boom (where the line would normally go vertically
almost str
Ah, yes, your blog post has a good picture of one possible setup with a
rigid vang.
Doesn't the vang hit the mainsheet when you're on a port downwind tack?
I've had issues with even my non-rigid vang doing that, and it makes it
difficult to sheet the main in.
Good call on using the deck block for
Next up on my winter project list: reinforcing the anchor locker lid
attachment.
C&C's are made really well for the most part, but I had a "what were they
thinking???" moment this weekend. I was investigating the anchor locker lid
hinge (which is screwed into a recessed area of the deck) because s
Since I just finished reading Nigel Calder's chapter on corrosion, I'll
take a crack at this.
Just speculating here, but do you have any other anodic metals that could
have been acting as anodes instead of your zincs before? Ex, if you had
the prop painted with zinc chromate, I believe that could
Since we were talking blowers last week, I wonder why C&C installed marine
blowers even on boats that didn't have gas engines?
I just today removed the rusted out ignition-protected blower in the stern
of my boat, which looked original. It had been disabled a while ago by a
prior owner (had no hos
nyr...@icloud.com
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
> messing about in boats." --Kenneth Grahame
>
> On Dec 28, 2015, at 12:13 AM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Diesel doesn't vaporize easily, unlike gasoline. That's one of its big
advantages on boats, that it's non-volatile. It's good practice to shut
down the engine at the fuel dock anyway, but they're probably asking that
more as a general policy due to the gasoline boats they fill (or in case
some gaso
One thing to keep in mind is that at some point the surface area of calcium
chloride exposed becomes more important than how much volume/weight of it
you have. I've found a big tub of Damprid will eventually form a solid
layer at the top. At that point all the bulk dry salt under there is doing
you
I'm surprised so many people on here are USCG documented. I thought USCG
documentation (as opposed to merely state registration) is mostly only
beneficial to those traveling internationally. (and not everyone commenting
travels internationally).
So if you don't travel outside of the US and Canada,
Good timing on this topic, I just finished installing my new Garhauer
RV-20-1SL vang. Thinking about writing a blog post on it (svviolethour.com)
since I've been so happy with it so far (though haven't yet used it
sailing! Just installed 3 days ago).
It's the best deal in boating I've found so far
Defender doesn't sell it. They sell Life Safe butyl tape, which as far as I
can tell is not the same as Bed-It. (besides the name, the color of the
tape is also different so I assume it's not just a rebranding of an
identical product).
I bought Bed-it tape from Hamilton Marine. That was the only m
There's no simple answer to this (it's something you may just have to find
your own preferences for) but the common answer is around 15 knots - or
wait till 20 knots, but you'll probably be compensating for over-canvasing
at that point (traveled way down, dumping wind, pinching up in gusts, etc).
Mine is a Beckson "rain drain" opening port:
http://www.beckson.com/opening.html
It has "Beckson pat no 4095640" stamped on it (patent number) and is
approximately 14" x 3.75" interior dimensions.
I'm assuming you're talking about the cockpit window to port of the
companionway entrance, in the mos
The C&C 43 had balsa core in vertical cockpit surfaces? That seems really
surprising. There's no core in the LF38 cockpit wall to the left of the
companionway, at least from what I observed removing an old Datamarine
display. It's about 1/4" of fiberglass.
If the 43 had coring in vertical cockpit
You're right to worry, but with a good plan and advice the project is very
doable. The heater exhaust cap thru-deck hole has been a persistent source
of leaks on our boat, and the prior owner who installed it made some poor
choices (and some good ones - I don't blame him for the job not lasting
for
I finished installing the new hatch lenses this weekend. Thanks again Fred
for the effort you went to getting these made and shipped! Here are some
before + after photos showing how great they look:
https://goo.gl/photos/JZBXFFRNyUYRhWAD9
It took me 8 hours, about 4 for each window. But if you'r
I'll also be doing Desolation Sound this summer, and likely further north.
June thru August, if we can get three months off. So there's a good chance
we will try to make the rendezvous August 5-7. Hard to say for sure now -
as they say, cruisers plans are written in sand at low tide. But we should
Hey Andrew,
I'm in Seattle, work near the Fremont Bridge, and frequently bike by Lake
Union on my way home. If we can find a time I'd be happy to drop by
sometime - might be easier to get some ideas in person, and there's a lot
to cover.
Looks like you're at Affinity, just past Fremont Brewing, w
I used Aegis Marine Surveyors in Vancouver last year. Timothy McGivney and
his partner Trevor Salmon.
It wasn't cheap, but a little cheaper than Ken Rorison's quote with travel
(ferry)... well worth the money in the end and I felt they did a good job.
I didn't meet Timothy (I couldn't attend the in
I don't think USCG requires paper charts, at least based on what this
Google search turns up:
https://www.google.com/search?q=us+coast+guard+requirements+paper+charts
http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg5/cg553/NAVStandards/ECDIS.asp
They don't say what "adequate backup arrangements" to an ECDIS (electronic
Hi,
I just wanted to introduce myself to the group since I'll probably be
posting a few questions here soon - this group is super helpful!
My fiancee and I are new LF38 owners in Seattle, and are keeping a blog
here:
www.svviolethour.com
Feel free to subscribe and follow along!
-Patrick
C&C 38
I know this question came up in 2006 (
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2006-May/002846.html ),
but that's 9 years ago and the story may have changed since then.
I'm getting to work on a few leaks in our boat, and the galley + head
hatches (LF38) come first.
The previous thread
re is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
> messing about in boats." --Kenneth Grahame
>
> On Mar 25, 2015, at 9:50 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I know this question came up in 2006 (
> http://cnc-list
Boyer
>> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
>> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>>
>> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
>> messing about in boats.&quo
I just completed building my lazy jacks (literally 2 days ago), so all the
info is top of mind.
I used the Guy Stevens article as my main reference:
http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_services/articles/tamers.php
I used 250' of 3/16" XLE Performer double braid (tan). I have about 30-60'
leftover.
My first haul out is coming up in 3 weeks, just for a few days to do some
small tasks like unsticking a seized seacock and maybe installing a new
speed transducer (old Datamarine one is somewhat broken).
I've read Wally's site cover to cover and know he redid his thru hulls
reaming out some core a
This thread is a couple months old, but I'm looking into new instruments
now too. Mainly a new speed display + transducer. Eventually adding a wind
instrument and maybe replacing the depth (old but still working).
Anyone have experience with B&G? I was considering a Raymarine i70 but now
am lookin
gt; blogposts.)
>>>
>>> When the hatch seals age, the rubber gets hard and brittle and no longer
>>> is elastic enough to make the seal--its not a bad design. Mine were 30+
>>> years old when I replaced them.
>>>
>>> Bob Boyer
>>> S/V Rainy Days / Anna
Thanks Fred, that's helpful. Things are slowly becoming clearer to me. (and
I'm leaning a bit back towards Raymarine)
I called Ray tech support back today and they said they have a new guy
ramping up so that might be who I talked to yesterday. Mark (tech guy
today) said i70 will work fine standalon
At this time of year all yards in Seattle will be busy, so I would call all
three, starting in this order: CSR, Canal, Seaview. I had mine hauled at
Canal just today, for about a week of DIY work plus a bit of deck
fiberglass repair by Pacific Fiberglass. CSR when I called them 3 weeks ago
said th
;
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick
> Davin via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 20, 2015 2:19 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Patrick Davin
> *Subject:* Stus-List Are original LF38 thru hulls in contact
Regarding seacocks on transom thruhulls - what do you mean by "they appear
to be below the waterline"? Either they are or they aren't, and it should
be pretty easy to determine this (are they submerged or not when the boat
is at the dock?). I'm not familiar with the 34+ but looking at some
picture
[Resending to list with your image removed since it exceeded msg size
limits]
Oh, yeah those look below waterline, I would want seacocks on them. I was
thinking your transom extended further back + up, but those are below the
bootstripe and close to the rudder.
You could also combine the two scup
Looks like a good deal. Especially if that new engine install was well
done.
CNG stove is a downside vs LPG in my opinion. Not sure where they store
their CNG - the box that normally holds LPG tanks under the helm seat is
missing.
Listing says it's a 1981 but specs tab says 1979. Sometimes broker
Anyone have tips for replacing engine mounts on a Yanmar 3HM? In terms of
the logistics, like how to prop up the engine, get the old mounts out, etc.
I have the transmission out now for a rebuild (fwd clutch failed) so it's
the perfect time to replace mounts. I'm just going to do the forward two
(
Josh you have great photos of the job, as usual.
Here are some pics of my existing mounts:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NfnpXZjYta205U0pmeW1Ba0Fla2U3YmNBX1ByU1c4TURtb0ZaVDk2VVFQQ28&usp=sharing
The Vetus mounts don't look very good. I have heard people like the captive
attrib
[Oops, sorry about the Digest subject line, forgot to rename it before
sending my prior mail]
Where would you slide the angle iron? Under the rear mounts? The forward
mounts are the ones visible in the picture in the link I sent (in the
drivetrain photo) -
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B
I have some questions on reefing. I know the basics, but want to get more
advanced so that it's easy even in challenging conditions. Especially
learning any handling characteristics that are specific to C&C's.
Difficulty reefing was the one of the few sail handling issues we had on
our cruise of V
I'm splitting this out from my reefing email because that one was getting
big (sorry!) and heaving to seems big enough to be a separate topic. I
searched the archive but didn't find too much on what configurations people
have found work best.
Two questions really -
- What sail config leads to a go
Thanks, good tips here.
I want to minimize going forward. So using the topping lift is probably not
something I'm going to do. Unless that were run back to the cockpit, but
that seems excessive and I'd need to add clutches.
I don't mind going forward in conditions with moderate or low waves, but
I'm a big fan of the Pardey's Storm Tactics. I went back and reread the
chapters on heaving to now, and it looks like I did the maneuver right
(from running, round quickly to wind, to minimize time you're beam on to
the seas; pages 56-57), but probably had too much foresail up.
They have a Q&A at
The great thing about the Internet is that scammers like this can run but
they can't hide. You can find a lot about someone if you know how to look
and they don't cover their tracks perfectly.
In this case the weak point is his phone number, which is basically a
unique search key.
Tracing that it
Navionics is discontinuing Boating HD? I haven't heard anything of this.
Do you mean just the HD version? Navionics is very much alive and working
on my tablet.
I bought the non-HD version for my N10, because it was cheaper and the
resolution is just fine. Plus I share it across my Android phone
When we were choosing our boat name recently we had a few guidelines:
- No puns, silly names, or motor boat names ("Master Baiter")
- Relatively easy to pronounce, spell, and understand over the VHF
- Uniqueness - some names are very common (Amazing Grace, Second Wind, etc)
and it'd be unfortunate
I took a look at a Landfall 38 last week, and yeah it's pretty bad (engine
access). But does it actually prevent you from doing any critical tasks or
is it more of a nuisance?
Also anyone know the differences between the Yanmar 3QM30F, 3HM30F, and
3GM, either in terms of size (access) or power / l
I've been debating my bilge pump plan for a few months now, and having
trouble deciding. What have others here decided is sufficient pump
capacity?
I have two Rule 800s now and am considering upgrading one to an 1100 or
2000 gph, as a high water alarm. That will require upgrading the hose from
3/4
Yeah, either carrots or potatoes. :) This is an idea from Yachting
Monthly's Crash Test Boat videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5PDuXvqL7c
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUg3TUmnQBs
On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 1:10 PM, Robert Boyer wrote:
> Carrots Funny!
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days
Interesting. That's basically what I was wondering. I was looking for a
calculator, but I found
this: http://www.whsyc.org/Flooding/Flooding.html
A 1.5" hole 2 feet below waterline results in 62.5 gpm (per minute!) = 3750
gph. Even 4000 gph capacity wouldn't keep up with that, after accounting
for
I have my boat hauled out now and am trying to drop the rudder.
The stainless steel donut that holds the rudder up, above the thrust
bearing in the cockpit, is very much stuck. I removed the two set screws
and am attempting to unscrew (counterclockwise), with the rudder propped up
(enough that tha
Gene's question is timely since the reason I'm trying to drop my rudder now
is to fix the leaking. I observed weeping at last year's haul-out, drilled
drainage holes, and got about 1/2 cup of reddish rusty smelly water.
My Vancouver surveyor told me water in rudders of old boats is very common,
an
Hmm, I'm afraid I don't see what you're saying. The pics might help. What
do you mean by "the table"? And he drilled a large diameter hole through
the entire rudder collar donut? That hole would go through the rudder stock
too. Or maybe the 37 has a different rudder attachment. The piece I'm
talkin
s big. I'll take the advice of
using a spacer behind the set screws when I reinstall. (looking into
getting a replacement collar nut now)
Here are some pics: https://goo.gl/photos/tcBkJny4uuqqFnRN9
On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 9:26 PM, wrote:
> *From: *"Patrick Davin via CnC-List"
I'm looking into this now, so I'll let you know what I find. Hope to figure
something out by end of week.
Your rudder probably won't fall out if the shaft collar breaks off (the
quadrant or radial drive will hold it) but that would still be a bad thing
- the radial drive would probably fall a few
Sorry for so many questions, but I bit off a bit much on this haul-out...
and I searched the list archives but didn't find much discussion of
alternate stuffing boxes.
My stuffing box is also seized and the packing needs to be replaced. On the
LF38 the stuffing box is under the engine oil pan (v-d
Thanks, it's definitely sounding like the way to go. I'm just extra
cautious when it comes to something enclosing a big hole in the boat. And I
like simple systems, and the PSS is definitely more complex than a
traditional stuffing box. But it sounds like PYI's 6 year recommendation is
just them be
Have you also watched the engine mounts while in low rpm to see if it's
just excess vibration making the noise?
If you want to check the prop for snags without going for a cold water
swim, a GoPro on an extension stick works well. I've used this method
before to check the zincs.
-Patrick
1984 C&C
Paul did you use the white color of KiwiGrip for your's? Your blog said you
were unable to get white KiwiGrip in the winter, but what color did you use
then? It looks pretty white to me.
I'm going to KiwiGrip my cockpit soon, and it seems like white is the way
to go to match most consistently with
Yes but if your LF38 has no fuel tank under the radial drive, as on mine,
then there is room for a tiller arm I believe. A prior owner removed the
original tank and installed a 16g one in the bottom of the stbd lazarette.
Eventually I may need more fuel capacity and might have to reconsider the
bel
If it's that corroded I would just pull it and replace it (or work on
reconditioning it once you have it out).
Pulling the deck fills was a recommended survey item on my boat anyway
because they tend to leak after 30+ years. They're in cored sections of the
deck, so leaking deck fills isn't good.
Are you sure? I talked to Trans Atlantic Diesels (who sells Hurth
transmissions) last year and they told me Hurth transmissions should not be
left in reverse while sailing. I told them the prop spins in neutral, and
they replied the prop should be allowed to freewheel in neutral, and not
sailed in
My lower spreaders also each have a tiny crack at the trailing edge. The
crack is about 1/8" - 1/4", on the middle of the seam. My rig inspector
didn't seem at all concerned about it, and there were bigger issues to
tackle first. I'd have to see a picture to know how bad your's looks, but
my soluti
Congrats on the successful passage! I'm subscribed now and look forward to
more.
>From the project pics it looks like you did a lot in only a year. Too bad
the blog wasn't started earlier - would be great to hear about some of
those.
What kind of wind vane do you have? I saw it in the pictures but
I have the Jabsco Par-Max 2.9. Installed 6 months ago when our older pump
died.
I've been happy with it. Works well and the install was easy.
It's about as noisy as our previous pump. Mounted under the galley sink,
there's no risk of not hearing it if it's cycling or running continuously
while onb
I ordered a mast gate from mastgates.com this June before departing on our
summer cruise. I don't want to dissuade you from them yet because the jury
is still out (I'm working with Tom to hopefully get it to work) but I
haven't been able to make it usable yet.
The design and installation of the ma
I've had this (minor) issue over a year where we can't fully close the
v-berth door on our Landfall 38.
At first I thought it was just due to heat expansion of the wood in the
summer, but it started roughly after I tightened the main shrouds a couple
turns (due to masthead fall off in higher winds
The turning blocks on the mast
> pushed the collar down, deformed the cabin roof and bound up the head door.
>
> Rebuilt mast step solved issue.
>
> Your experience may be different.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 1
That's a good idea, and not something I would've thought of probably. I had
already tried tightening the screws on the hinges, since sometimes those
loosen up.
The port side of my door (hinge side) has about 1/16" - 1/8" clearance, so
there's room to recess the hinges a bit. I'll have to form a re
othing to be concerned about or does that
> indicate an issue with the bulkheads? They shouldn't easily compress at
> all, anyway.
>
> Best,
>
> Matti
>
> On 10 August 2017 at 21:43, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I'v
It's very common to have spider web cracking in the gelcoat (and maybe into
the fiberglass) on old boats around the stanchions. It doesn't necessarily
mean water is getting into the core, but it's good to investigate, which it
sounds like you're doing.
Many surveyors will say they found voids (air
I couldn't help but chuckle at your description - that's a perfect
description of several times when I really regretted towing the dinghy and
should have had it stowed (folding PortaBote, so it stows nicely inside the
shrouds).
In those kind of wave conditions I think the dinghy should be stowed.
We have the 10' portabote too, and it seems to be the most popular. The 8'
is significantly smaller, but might be a good choice if you only intend to
have 2 people in it. The smaller the boat the easier it is to handle on
deck. I was surprised at how heavy the 10' is. I can "singlehand" assemble
an
I believe my transmission is 2.14:1. Not 100% sure, but when I had it
rebuilt two years ago I had someone check it and that's what they said it
was. Also I had considered replacement and they had 2.7:1's in stock but no
2.14:1.
Just curious where are you getting your new transmission? I had the
i
They just look a little green? I would not clean that. Bronze naturally
oxidizes, and the green discoloration is normal - its natural eventual
state. It could even be protective
(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bronze - "Typically
bronze only oxidizes superficially; once a copper oxide (eventually
be
Yikes. Is it a Perko like this one?
http://www.perko.com/images/catalog/product/xl/Fig%200493%20(Top%20On).jpg
I'm having a hard time visualizing how a single bolt failure could result
in a hole big enough to outpace a 800 gph pump.
Sounds like one of the wing nut bolts broke, but the other one w
I just did this project last week. Used SuperLube. (and yes, as Marek says
this is what Peggy Hall recommends - I borrowed her book from the library a
few weeks ago). The pump is smooth as butter now. You should be able to
push the handle with 2 fingers. I've used bowl additives before (oil or
West
>
> From: Marek Dziedzic
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2017 20:09:55 +
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Lost at sea...um , yeah
> I almost think that we give them too much attention
>
> Marek
>
>
Indeed. I was at the dentist today and when I mentioned I'm into sailing
I've been using Starbrite nonskid deck cleaner (with PTEF) and it seems to
help.
The type of nonskid you have also matters though - sharp ridged nonskid
like KiwiGrip is very hard to keep clean.
There was a thread about this recently on CF:
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=249
Does anyone have a vented loop on their engine cooling water hose (between
the heat exchanger and the exhaust elbow)? Do you think it's necessary,
and any regrets / things you would change? If you have one, where is it
mounted? (particularly for LF38 layout, but any C&C over 32' would probably
be
For those that have one, do you know what kind you have? Vetus makes a few
- https://www.google.com/search?q=vetus+vented+loop - and there are the
Forespar Marelon ones. I read some of the Vetus ones require running a vent
line overboard or to a cockpit drain, or they leak water into the boat.
Al
Thanks all. Rick, that's the sort of nightmare story I'm hoping to avoid!
When you say corners were cut "on the exhaust elbow, hose routing, and the
siphon break" do you mean the prior engine had those things installed in a
poor manner, or that a siphon break wasn't installed?
I haven't heard from
I couldn't help but chuckle that Jeanneau owners are claiming to have
invented / named this knot. It's just the halyard hitch with a different
finish. So perhaps it should be called halyard hitch, Jeanneau variant?
I use the standard halyard hitch which ends with the tail up:
https://www.netknots
Wow. That's $123,000 in today's dollars. (20k in 1971 = 123k today).
Important to compare real values, not nominal values - inflation over 47
years is very significant! Still not bad, a 35' production boat today goes
a bit more than that I think.
Would be interesting if anyone has a 1980's number
Easy unless it's not - which I find is true of most boat projects.
Old boat, old mast, I found my clevis pin was quite stuck / seized and the
cover plate sheared off. My mast didn't have an opposing hole (not sure if
yours does).
I wrote about this in this blog post:
https://svviolethour.com/2017
That's a good price, although there are many other 100w rigid panels around
that price range too - 3 different brands in the $100-115 range on Amazon.
The question is how well they will hold up and perform. The reviews seem
good. I wouldn't worry about optimizing the price of the panels though -
ot
I agree with you. If I had known Raymarine's love of proprietary,
lock-you-in, charge-as-much-as-they-please techniques, I probably wouldn't
have bought an i70 and wind instrument. (It's pretty astounding how much
they charge per foot for a backbone cable, and even the little plastic caps
you use
Oops - I didn't mean to turn this into an Apple vs Android debate! : ) But
I can't resist responding to a few of your points:
- It's not true that on Android you're locked in to one app store. There
are alternatives (most well-known of which is Amazon's app store):
https://www.androidpit.com/best-
I'm considering doing a rerig this winter. There are no obvious problems,
but it's getting on 33 years now and would be nice for the peace of mind.
Does anyone know of any blogs / websites / emails that do sort of a step by
step guide to do-it-yourself rerigging?
I'd like to do it myself to save o
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