Congrats!
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Feb 10, 2016 8:10 PM, "Alan Liles via CnC-List"
wrote:
> The deal just closed. I'm the new owner of C&C 37/40+ Elendil out of
> Victoria.
>
> Cheers, Al
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC
Are we talking true or apparent wind speeds with respect to when to reef?
If I am just out for an easy cruise which I start before noon with the
full main and 130 RF genoa, often times rather than reef the main I
just get rid of the furling genoa when the afternoon wind pipes up.
When the wind app
you need a vang of some sort
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net
On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 11:27 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List
wrote:
> C&C Sailors-
>
> The C&C 30 MK1 hull #7 I just bought does not have a boom vang. Perhaps
> because its bo
Randy,
I get the impression that the roller reefing boom was on a number of the early
70s C&C models, though whether standard or optional I don’t know.
My 25 came with a roller reefing boom. It also had a soft vang. Part of the
gear included a large yellow metal “hoop”, in the top of whic
My reply on this would read the same as Rick's. I still have the crank for
the roller boom but the "C" bail is long gone.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 7:53 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Randy,
>
>
>
> I get the impression that
I'm a fan of keeping the boat pretty flat, so I usually reef my 33 at about
13kn if i know its blowing that before I head out.
If i'm already out, i'll wait until around 15 kn before doing the main but will
usually furl in the genoa a bit before that.
The wind on Lake Ontario is rarely steady,
When you first think of it...
David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2016 21:53:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: amira...@eastlink.ca
If I am by myself, flying a 130 genoa, I will reef
As the owner of 30-1 #593, I strongly recommend a vang. I have a Garhauer
solid vang with its adjusting line led to the cockpit. It is very useful.
Gary
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, Februa
I have had one of those spring vangs forever. It is nice to have and allowed us
to get rid of the topping lift.
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 9:3
ow if the door(s) between head and v-berth were an addition in
> later hull numbers? Or maybe my boat's doors were removed by a former owner
> and never replaced. Thanks in advance.
>
> Also, Rick, what is the displacement of your boat? Sailboat data.com and the
> brochure
Hey Randy,
I have 30-1 hull number 377. She's a 1976 model year built in 12/75.
I too have a slider between the head and the salon, but nothing between the
V-berth and the head. I'd imagine it would have to be a swing door and it
would probably be a tight fit.
I'm on the train, so I cant rea
Later versions (1980) have a hinged door between the salon and head areas and a
double hinged door between the v-berth and the head. I’m not sure whether that
was standard or optional – I think that list may be in my paperwork.
Gary Nylander #593
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bo
Do you need a vang? Depends how much you care about sailing efficiency
(Cruising or racing). Also, to some degree I would be inclined to believe
that a properly trimmed main will also last longer. Without enough vang
tension in high winds it seems the sail gets way more "belly" then it
should
My 35 MKII came with a door that hinges in the middle, so it stores
like half a door against the port bulkead where its primary hinges are
located and its bottom is about 18 inches above the cabin sole...you
could probably fabricate something similar for the 30 MKI
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Aliann
To add to Francois’s list of references I would like to include one of the best
(easiest to read) books by Don Guillette “The Sail Trim User’s Guide”
(http://www.sailtrimproducts.com/sail_trim_users_guide.html directly from him
or in SBO http://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?51998/). Might be
When stuff starts falling over in the galley. Main first, hate to put a
wrinkle in my new genny.
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 9:29 AM, David via CnC-List
wrote:
> When you first think of it...
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
>
I dug up my Owners Manual – it doesn’t have the lists, but the line diagram of
the boat shows the swinging door and double doors as I described. My owners
manual has various updates listed but that particular page isn’t dated.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Hi All,
Does anyone know how much slower the wing keel will make a 1988 C&C 30-2
than a standard keel?
Best regards,
David Miles
1-604-575-1491
mi...@intergate.ca
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alan
Liles via CnC-List
Sent: Februar
On my 35/3 when cruising, 18 knots apparent I'll reef the main with the
135. She sails faster at less than 20 degrees heel.
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 11:48 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> When stuff starts falling over in the galley. Main first
Very likely finished before the fire. Your full hull number and can tell
you what month your build started. The number on the transom that starts
ZCC40 something...
Ours is ZCC37067C090 which translates as:
ZCC = the three letter code for C&C Yachts. The first three characters are
a MIC (Manufa
Reef at the dock much?
At 06:08 AM 2/11/2016, you wrote:
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2016 20:41:04 -0600
From: "Dennis C."
To: CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2
I reef when my beer falls over. :)
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C
Congrats! I guess I'm not the newest owner on the list anymore.
Sam
C&C 35 mk III
SF
On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 8:58 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Very likely finished before the fire. Your full hull number and can tell
> you what month your build started. The num
ZCC40088E394, so built May 93 but a 94 model? Oddly like the auto industry in
the leeway between build dates and model years.
Cheers, Al
> On Feb 11, 2016, at 8:58 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Very likely finished before the fire. Your full hull number and can tell you
> what
I have a C&C 30 "77" model year.
>From my HIN ZCC304531076 I would guess it is #453 laid up October 1976.
I have the sliding door and after a few years of ownership the PO dropped off
the
folding door that the PPO had removed.
At haulout, so no mast and most stuff removed the crane weighs me at
Thank you Rick, Michael, Francois, and all - your advice is valuable.
I appreciate the benefits of vangs from a few years of racing Capri 22s, J/22s,
and Merit 25s. In addition to the adjustable backstays on those fractional
rigs, we'd use the vang upwind in heavy air to help depower, and to pl
FYI, The equipment list came with my boat and it's from 1979.
Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 10:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Thanks Aaron, Gary, Michael, Ryan. That optional equipment list didn't show any
options for interior doors. Interestingly, however, it did show an option for a
boom vang :)
I will assume my boat either didn't come with a door between head and v-berth,
or the door was removed and not replaced b
As I said earlier, my boat is late, so the boom is a foot higher than yours,
unless yours has been refitted.
That said, the Garhauer spring loaded tube attaches at the base of the mast,
just above the partners, there’s a fitted plate – and the same is true on the
boom, it’s about 3 -4 feet a
I am going to recaulk the toe rails and hull to deck joint on my 32' C&C.
After long consideration I will be doing this with butyl tape from Compass
Marine. I would be pleased to hear any advice I can get on this process,
particularly placing the tape between the top lip of the hull and the w
Anchovy has a hinged bi-fold door between the v-berth and the head. The hinges
are on the hanging locker side and is held either open or closed with a simple
hook and eye assembly. As far as displacement, I really couldn't say as I've
never weighed her.
Rick Bushie
Anchovy, 1971 30-1, Hull 1
This fall we moved the boom gooseneck up a foot on Anchovy. It just so happened
that her main luff was 18" short to begin with. I assume the PO bought the
wrong sail or some other snafu. I'm planning on installing a Garhauer rigid
vang this year and tearing off, with extreme prejudice, the wire
Thanks for the displacement data Michael.
I have HIN 30007972 - hull #7 laid up in September 1972 if I'm decoding
correctly.
She has tiller steering and the Atomic-4 gasoline engine, rigged for spinnaker
(pole chocked on deck) and roller-furling boom. Two batteries, two sets of
primary winch
Well, PHRF-LE just allowed a foot extension for A-Sails with no penalty, so, I
see a new stemhead fitting with a foot long bow roller in the future for the
Coltrek.
Has anyone had any experience with these Profurl Spinex spinnaker furlers with
the roller balls on the torsion rope?
And Defe
I understood, mostly from comments on this list, that using an A-sail on a
displacement hull and sail plan rigged for a mast head spinnaker was not
recommended, except perhaps for short-handed racing.
Is this incorrect, out-of date or still true?
Charlie Nelson
C&C 36XL
New Bern, NC
cenel
have you tried torquing the toe rail fastens...C&C puts lots of butyl
in there when mine was built and a selective area re torquing stoped
the leaksI'll do the rest when I get up the spirit hits me or if
a leak developes, also used Captain Tolleys creeping crack cure from
the outside along the
Still a good chuck of cash, even on sail but those extra seconds count
and boy do they cost
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net
On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 5:02 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List
wrote:
> Well, PHRF-LE just allowed a foot extension fo
Never used that brand, but their marketing slogan was something like "only
we have the balls to make a furler like this".
We use the asym for racing and cruising. I bet we used it for 400 miles on
the way to Bermuda.
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 4:34 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-Lis
Depends. If you are doing short, around the cans windward – Leeward races in
the bay, In our case the A sail would not be a winner. However, having said
that, if I had this setup, we would be likely use it unless we had a crew of 7
or 8, which rarely happens.
Longer triangles, beautiful, and
I’ve been working on my C&C33ii keel/deck joint too Dwight, even though I can’t
prove the K/D joint is leaking. I have been plugging away at it whenever the
mood strikes me; I find that the vast majority of the fasteners do not spin
when I tighten them from below.
Regards,
Mike Amirault
C&C33i
Attempting to replace cutlass bearing.
Shaft is 1.25"
ID of the strut where the bearing goes is 1.625", which by my calculation
is 1 and 5/8.
I cannot find a bearing that is 1 1/4 X 1 5/8.
Only 1 1/4 X 1 1/2 or 1 3/4
Cant find metric equivalent either.
Brian Fry
La Neige
HdG MD
1993 37/40XL
__
I teach my students to reef as soon as they think about it, they are probably
right. It is hard to come up with hard rules about when to reef when different
boats and sailors have very different comfort levels.___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
T
Any that do spin may subsequently leak. That is why the recommended
method is to immobilize the screw from above as you tighten the nut below.
Bill Bina
On 2/11/2016 5:22 PM, Mike Amirault via CnC-List wrote:
I’ve been working on my C&C33ii keel/deck joint too Dwight, even
though I can’t prove
Bill – I’ve raced with an asym for the last 5 years. I looked closely at the
top down spin furlers at a recent boat show. They are expensive and, I’m told,
not overly reliable (yet). If looking for a way to tame a spin, I was directed
by multiple sources to a sock. ATN specifically.
C
It doesn't hurt to apply Captain Tolleys right to the screw head, it
seems to seep in and form some sort of seal, I did it on Alianna, at
first it's white but that goes away
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net
On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 6:47 PM,
Brian,
Mine was hard to measure because there was a slight taper to the hole at
the ends of the strut. You might double check the measurement. 1 5/8
would be odd.
Joel
On Thursday, February 11, 2016, Brian Fry via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Attempting to replace cutlass bearin
Jesse:
I have a 1984 C&C 32.my boat has butyl in the deck joint.boat is
still quite dry and I have not torqued the bolt/nut in the 10 years I
have owned it.
Have you done this and your boat is still leaking?
ROb Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2016-02-11 3:28 PM, Jesse A.
FWIW, the shaft on Orion, a Landfall 35 with a Yanmar 3HM was 1 1/8" diameter.
Being replaced now along with cutlass bearing due to shoddy sling placement at
haul out.
Chuck Gilchrest
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 11, 2016, at 5:23 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Attempting to repla
I tightened all toe rail bolts during Christmas vacation. None of the bolts
spun as I tightened from below. This seems to have eliminated all water ingress
from topsides. I would try that before I tore into the deck/hull joint.
Rick Bushie
Anchovy
Sent from my iPhone
___
Just apply several applications of Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure over
several days and go sailing.
Dennis C.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 11, 2016, at 1:28 PM, "Jesse A. Rieber via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
> I am going to recaulk the toe rails and hull to deck joint on my 32' C&C.
> Aft
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