Use a crow’s foot (look it up) instead of a socket. Cheaper too.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 27, 2020, at 4:23 PM, Ken Heaton wrote:
>
>
> Have a look here: https://hrmfg.net/products/extra-deep-impact-sockets/
>
> PART # Extra Deep Impact Socket DS-1-7/8x12x3/4″
>
> NUT SIZE 1-7/8″
>
Hi Mike,
Last summer we sailed up to Nova Scotia (from RI) and, when we got there,
we used the CCA guide. It seemed adequate for the harbor hopping that we
did from Shelburne to St Petes, Bras D'or Lakes.It is bare bones though
-- mostly narrative and none of the illustrated charts that are c
Does anyone out there in C&C land know of a 33-1 with an installed Yanmar
3YM30? I ask because I am considering repowering my C&C 33-1. I love my
atomic 4 but last summer's cruise of over 1000 nm to Cape Breton and beyond
(and back) became a logistics challenge due to limited fuel range and
stora
I have a 1975 33 - I and I did the following:
I went to a window building place and went through their samples of spline and
found one that fit perfectly (ie, it closely matched the old spline
thickness). I then went to Amazon and ordered the shortest roll I could
get (100 ft). Here is what I bo
the outside facing side worked then? I assume
> the second groove went under the frame and was not visible?
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Fri, Mar 23, 2018 at 6:00 AM, David Paine via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Denis,
>>
>> I went to a
Hi Denis,
I went to a window building place and went through their samples of spline
and found one that fit perfectly. I then went to Amazon and ordered the
shortest roll I could get (100 ft). Here is what I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G0Y5EA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=
Hi Bob,
I'm very sorry to hear that the mighty Ox has fallen!
I'm a fellow C&C33-I owner. I hope this isn't too crass, but if you have a
bimni for Ox, I would be interested in it. Also, (and this is really a
stretch), I have been thinking of rebuilding my rudder. If the boat goes
to the dumps
Hi Joe,
Sorry to hear that your project has come to an end. I've been there on
other projects! I have, and actively cruise, a C&C 33 mark 1 1975.Is
your boat, by chance, diesel powered? If so, I could imagine a scenario
where I would be interested in acquiring your boat.
Best,
David
On W
Hi Barbara,
I have a 33-1 with the same configuration. I don't see any need to change
it as It works well for draining small amounts of water. However, when
you need to empty the cockpit in a hurry, say when its been filled after
being pooped by a breaking wave, you need more drain cross-sectio
d then relaid
> fiberglass over the top edge and around the stock. You can kind of see that
> in the last two pictures.
>
> -Patrick
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 23, 2017 at 4:22 PM, David Paine wrote:
>
>> Thank very much!That's helpful. I shall study this a bit mo
; 6NSnFycEtiVW9lTDg?usp=sharing
>
> The lower hole was drilled to probe a void we found where the skin had
> delaminated from the foam. The later pictures show the work the fiberglass
> guy did filling the holes, void, and resealing around the stock.
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&
I know that my rudder leaks and, every year I drill a drain hole to empty
it. Rusty water comes out. Of course I will do my best to seal the
rudder post where it enters the rudder but I am toying with the idea of
cutting into my C&C 33-I's rudder to examine the state of the weld that
holds the
s. My buddy with a
> sister boat pulled the rails and cut the countertop under the rails to
> remove the icebox in order to add insulation.
>
> Depending on how your icebox is made, I'd think long and hard before
> tackling adding insulation.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 3
Someone stop me before I go too far
I'd like to rebuild/insulate the ice box on my C&C 33-1 in preparation for
the installation of a AB cold machine that I acquired recently. To to
insulate properly, I am going to have to pull the ice box cabinet apart
and possibly create and install a new,
Just for the record, you do not want to be dependent on the head pump to
keep your boat afloat as the valves in these things can and do fail. Sea
water overflowing the bowl probably means that there is a siphon between
the head and the though hull (or worse). Replacing the pump just delays
sinki
Bob,
I had the same spreader problem (wear from a previous owner not tying off
the steel cable halyard). In the end the best solution was to remake the
spreaders. Bay sailing equipment, 986 cherry street, Fall River,
Frank: 508 678 4419 has the original C&C extrusion and did the work.
It
Thanks for the info -- my wheel used to do three turns stop to stop but I
reconfigured my below decks tiller arm (that sits above the quadrant --
quarter circle) in a way that, unintentionally, will reduce it to 2 turns.
I suppose I really should ask what a reasonable maximum rudder angle
would b
I've been messing with my steering and the placement of the wheel stop on
the quadrant. My question is, how many turns (or partial turns) of the
wheel past midships does your steering system allow?
Thanks,
David
___
This list is supported by the gener
Nice!
On Thu, May 5, 2016 at 6:10 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I made a solar panel bimini.
> It's been tidied and beefed up a bit since the pic was taken.
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0btSA_J8otua091R1dRbDFWMDA
>
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
> On Wed,
Someone, a while back, asked in another thread how I fit a below decks
autopilot in my c&c 33-1. Here is a picture looking back from the
starboard cockpit locker showing the Al-tiller arm mounted on the rudder
post just above the quadrant. A cable that runs to the cockpit is used to
engage the au
<
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Wow. I'd love to see some details of that arrangement.
> --Bob Moriarty
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 8:57 PM, David Paine via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Bob, My below decks ardui
Apr 15, 2016 at 7:45 PM, bobmor99 . wrote:
>
>> Hi David,
>> My only (marginally useful) advice is to use a Dremel instead of a
>> hacksaw.
>> It's really tight down there.
>> --Bob M
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:26 PM, David Paine via C
because I could not find a replacement.
>>
>>
>>
>> There is more fun at the other end (cockpit) when it’s time to attach and
>> adjust the cable. I disassembled the cable “tubes” from the binnacle to
>> accomplish this.
>>
>>
>> Rod Randow
>
Hi all,
I have to replace the shift cable on my C&C33-1 and it is proving to be
troublesome. I have the original atomic 4 with the v-drive so the
transmission is located in the front. The red jacket 64CC series cable
comes from the helm, under the cockpit sole and beneath the engine and
attach
wow, $800 each seems steep. I bought a set of two Barrient two speed self
tailing model 21-33 winches (plus a complete helm) that came off a wrecked
person 33 for $300. BTW, I know I have the model number because it's
inscribed on the top of the winch but I can't find the service manual
anywhe
Coincidently, the Practical Sailor test C&C 33 -1 that Bob mentions is my
boat. Just about everything they wrote about doing 25 years ago has been
redone.
On Tue, Nov 17, 2015 at 8:44 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> That would be great, although PS had a 33-1 as a
Thanks David!
On the topic of Solent stays, I think I have two options. (1) A true
removable Solent supported at the top of the mast by the backstay and at
the deck near the bow fitting or (2) possibly, a staysail stay supported
at the spreaders (one set) by the aft lowers and at the midforedec
27;d be concerned about forgetting to open the seacock or ball valve.
>
> Mark
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
> - George Santayana
>
> On 2015-10-27 3:50 PM, David Paine via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> As I mentioned las
gt; Martin DeYoung
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
> [image: Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> Paine via CnC-List
> *Sent:*
a bit inconvenient to get to.
>
> For (4) I recall a diagram of routing the vent through the base of a
> stantion with some added venting high in that tubing. Complicates the
> stantion base support. Not sure if that venting path is standards-compliant
> but interesting.
>
> Ed
&g
gt; weather.
>
> Invest in an asym for a carbon spin pole. Asym is useless if more than
> 140 degrees off the wind.
>
> Wish I could answer the hard questions! How did someone get a below deck
> pilot in in the first place?
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
> On
nless steel wire through the
hole in both screws and through the body of the turnbuckle.. Cheap and
easy.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 11:51 AM, wrote:
>
> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: David Paine
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>&g
Hi All,
As I mentioned last spring as part of a question about life rafts, I had
planned to sail my C&C33-1 solo to Bermuda and back (double handed) in
the Bermuda1-2 race. I did, It was fun, it was terrifying, it was
expensive to prepare for, and it was frustrating as I did not do well (dfl)
I am planning to install lazy jacks on my C&C 33-1. Something simple with
rings instead of blocks. The two top most lines attach ... where? I'm
aiming for half way between the spreaders and the top of the mast. How
long should the top piece be (ie where does the first split occur?
Appreciate an
Hi All,
C&C 33 - 1 with two sets of lowers: forward and aft. They attach at two
attachment points on the mast, one slightly higher than the other and both
just below the spreaders. Do the forward lowers attach at the highest
point or the one 2 inches lower?
Thanks!
David
_
But, if you go to the McMaster site via the link scroll down to the EDPM
cord which is an exact replacement and not the other stuff listed on that
page.
On Thu, Mar 26, 2015 at 2:49 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Here's the stuff. Seems the galley and head hatches
EDPM smooth surface cord: http://www.mcmaster.com/#foam-cords/=wgxi0l
On Wed, Mar 25, 2015 at 10:01 PM, David Paine wrote:
> Patrick,
>
> What you want is: http://www.mcmaster.com/#foam-cords/=wgxej0
>
> I just bought 1/2" cord for my A&H foredeck hatch. My friend
Patrick,
What you want is: http://www.mcmaster.com/#foam-cords/=wgxej0
I just bought 1/2" cord for my A&H foredeck hatch. My friend has A&H side
ports on his Alberg and he bought the 3/8" cord to fit into the groove.
David
On Wed, Mar 25, 2015 at 9:50 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
cnc-list
Hi John,
I've grown to love (or at least respect) my Hillerange pressure OH stove.
The key is to heat the delivery pipe that runs over the top of the burner
without setting the boat ablaze. My usual procedure is to open the valve,
look for liquid (small amount) in the pan below the burner then c
Burt,
I can say that I have a below deck actuator in my C&C33 so in your case
(with a tiller) there should be plenty of room. In my case I bolted a
below deck tiller and mounted it athwartships just above the quadrant (I
have wheel steering). The actuator runs fore-and-aft and is mounted in the
Great points, I'm in the middle of doing the same refab job:
My questions are:
(1) 0.5 " diameter circular cross-section neoprene gasket (for the hatch
seal onto frame) but what harness neoprene?
(2) Does anyone know where to get a replacement aluminum hatch handle (the
round one that allows th
Quick question for the List:
I've had "my" sail maker put three reefs into my mainsail (C&C33-I). Most
of the time I sail with the reef-line not run through the clew grommets.
For an upcoming sailing adventure, I will need to have all three reefs
rigged and ready to go. What line should I use?
Hi All,
I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to ask a ridiculous-sounding
question. Do you have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail? I do not
in my current sail but that is because Hood made the sail with a jack line
(or lace line) which serves the purpose. My new sail definitely won't
n Thu, Jan 8, 2015 at 12:38 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I'll jump on that offer! You may want to check the cost of re certifying
> a Winslow 6 man offshore before offering! Feel free to contact me off
> list. I'm in NJ
>
>
Hi All,
Here's a cold day topic ...
I am aiming to compete in the 2015 Bermuda 1-2 race in my vintage C&C 33-1.
(my boat won't be the only old C&C). My pretentions are modest -- think
Eddie the Eagle rather than Moitessier, but I have sailed to Bermuda and
back several times and I have done the
Thanks, I'll give Klacko a try! Then, if they don't have it or if the
cost is insane, I'll try to fix it. For the record (and because someone
asked), the crack is really more like a split along the leading edge.
Welding or reinforcement might be possible.
Thanks all,
David
On Thu, Dec 4, 201
Hi All,
I just took my mast down (original mast on a 1975 C&C 33) for some work and
was horrified to find that one of my spreaders is cracked in a not-good
way. Ideally, I'd like to replace it -- does anyone know where such a part
could be found? It's an airfoil shaped section that tapers toward
In my 1975 C&C 33-1, I was able (many years ago) to get my daughter (when
she was 11) to squeeze into that space (twice) once to remove the old
exhaust and again to put a new one back on. We did this by removing the
engine control panel and both screw-on access ports to reduce
claustrophobia. I
Don, In principle yes you could but you'd still have a pretty lousy
analog-based autopilot at the end of the day and the current draw of the
actuator would need to be similar to that of the 3000 (which is unlikely).
I started to build my homebrew autopilot after my ancient autohelm (the
one with
below-deck replacement.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
>
> On Jan 21, 2014, at 8:57 AM, David Paine wrote:
>
> Hi Peter,
>
> I built a homebrew below deck autopilot for my C&C33 a couple of years
Hi Peter,
I built a homebrew below deck autopilot for my C&C33 a couple of years ago
using a linear actuator, a mechanical clutch, a H-bridge-like serial power
controller from Pololu, an arduino, a transreflective serial LCD display,
four buttons, and most important of all, a digital compass with
;You don't really race the
> boat so why not go back to a wire and rope halyard?" We did and so far no
> problems with halyards since.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On 21 October 2013 22:02, David Paine wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the ideas. I have a rigid vang so it wasn'
ping lift were fouled. That was easily
> fixed. Later on, my mast climber (who goes all the way to the top) told me
> my (wire) topping lift had a few broken strands.
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
> On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 6:59 PM, David Paine wrote:
>
>> I had an in
I had an interesting sail last weekend to Cuttyhunk, in my 1975 C&C33-1.
I was blasting downwind in 17-22 kn wind under main and poled-out jib. The
ride lasted for several hours but was interrupted when I jibed the main (in
a fairly controlled jibe). To my great surprise the jibe resulted in the
It sounds like there may be a bit of confusion here. Several boats turned
around (an open 40, a Pearson wanderer, and one more) and, one -- the
Carbon- columbia, was abandoned when it seemed that the keel was falling
off (fair enough excuse in my book!). Dan, the guy that headed north to
get out
one familiar with things electrical
> to check out his boat. There are simply too many possibilities to discuss
> them sensibly here.
>
> Rich Knowles
>
> Indigo. LF38
>
> Halifax
>
>
> On 2013-04-06, at 20:45, David Paine wrote:
>
> Folks,***
Folks,
My friend, Steve, messed up this afternoon working on his cb C&C 35. He is
too shy to post (kidding) but here (below) is his question. I am an A4 guy
so I am clueless about what dangers the Yanmar horn that sounds when
starting a Yanmar is even supposed to alert one to!Here is the
qu
The ridiculous part about these low prices is that the value of the keel
for lead ($0.50 to $1.00/lb) exceeds the asking price for the boat.
On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 5:21 PM, Knowles Rich wrote:
> Just thinking that might make an excellent sail training boat for a yacht
> club. The interior would
Thanks to all for the useful confirmation of boat-ownership
economics/mathematics. Allow me to summarize the lesson:
Buy the boat for X or even 2X (it doesn't matter), spend Y (where Y>>2X),
then sell for X/2 (or less, it doesn't matter).
I really hope not to have to sell as I really have enjoy
I'm trying to value my much loved (by me) 1975 33 Mk 1. Speaking
objectively, I'd say that it's structurally sound but shabby -- old
cushions, worn surfaces including some teak veneer loss. It has an A4
engine - reliable but requires coddling. Alcohol stove. Old, largely
end-of-useful-life sa
&C 30
> STL
>
>
> --- On *Wed, 2/6/13, David Paine * wrote:
>
>
> From: David Paine
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Old style aluminum frame portlight gasket
> To: "Dennis C." , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Date: Wednesday, February 6, 2013, 9:07 PM
>
>
Sorry to be thick headed but I don't see where this D profile stuff fits in
the old style AL frame windows.
I have old style aluminum frame windows (CC33 1975) that form a seal with
the plexiglass with 1/8" thick and 1/2" wide (I think) double sided sticky
neoprene tape which sticks the plexi to
Interesting. I am playing with sailing the Newport-Bermuda 1-2 and I too
am a bit scared off by the entry costs. If I had a storm trisail (I don't
yet), I'd spray paint the top third orange with a can of compatible (latex)
paint. Any idea what the EPIRB/Raft rental costs are? I qualified last
s
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