yes, thanks, that's what my garbled text meant! I'm going to with the dig-a-groove around the rudder post/stock and fill it with 5200 approach. Thanks again.
On Fri, Mar 24, 2017 at 12:24 PM, Patrick Davin <jda...@gmail.com> wrote: > Do you mean what was done around the rudder stock to prevent water > intrusion? > > One suggestion I had from a surveyor was to just dremel out a small bevel > around it and inject a flexible epoxy like GFlex. That would be the > quick-and-dirty DIY fix. > > But since I was already paying a fiberglasser (to repair the void, and > because I'm not skilled enough or motivated enough to do that kind of > fiberglass work myself yet), he did it his way, which was probably better. > > I don't have all the specifics but I believe what he did was ground off > the paint + fiberglass from the top edge of the rudder and then relaid > fiberglass over the top edge and around the stock. You can kind of see that > in the last two pictures. > > -Patrick > > > On Thu, Mar 23, 2017 at 4:22 PM, David Paine <paineda...@gmail.com> wrote: > >> Thank very much! That's helpful. I shall study this a bit more but >> it's approximately what I am planning to do. How did you deal thje rudder >> stock? >> >> On Thu, Mar 23, 2017 at 7:17 PM, Patrick Davin <jda...@gmail.com> wrote: >> >>> When the yard did this for me last year, they just used a ~3" hole saw >>> and aimed for a couple inches aft of the rudder stock. You don't really >>> need a diagram because you know where the rudder stock is, and with a small >>> amount of luck will find it on the first try. Do the hole on the upper 1/3 >>> of the rudder, since you don't know how far down the stock extends, but >>> know it's surely present in the upper third. >>> If you're a half inch away from the weld and can't quite see it, you can >>> go digging in the foam with a screwdriver. >>> >>> It turns out I didn't put pictures of it in my blog post (but there is >>> some discussion of related items, so may still be of interest): >>> https://svviolethour.com/2016/05/03/this-years-ha >>> ul-out-dropping-the-rudder/ >>> >>> I have plenty of pictures though, I can drop a few in a shared folder: >>> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BxfHpwssU_6NSnFycEti >>> VW9lTDg?usp=sharing >>> >>> The lower hole was drilled to probe a void we found where the skin had >>> delaminated from the foam. The later pictures show the work the fiberglass >>> guy did filling the holes, void, and resealing around the stock. >>> >>> -Patrick >>> 1984 C&C LF38 >>> >>> On Thu, Mar 23, 2017 at 3:20 PM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>> >>>> From: David Paine <paineda...@gmail.com> >>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>>> Cc: >>>> Bcc: >>>> Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2017 18:18:50 -0400 >>>> Subject: Stus-List internal rudder structure? >>>> I know that my rudder leaks and, every year I drill a drain hole to >>>> empty it. Rusty water comes out. Of course I will do my best to seal >>>> the rudder post where it enters the rudder but I am toying with the idea of >>>> cutting into my C&C 33-I's rudder to examine the state of the weld that >>>> holds the internal stainless steel "fin" to the rudder post. I have a >>>> vague idea of what it looks like, but I'd like to minimize the size of the >>>> window that I cut into the rudder skin to examine the weld. This means >>>> that a dimensional diagram that shows the stainless steel internal >>>> structure of the rudder would be ... most excellent! Does anyone on the >>>> list have such a diagram? >>>> >>>> Best, >>>> >>>> David >>>> >>> >>> >>> >> >
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