On my boat, I installed two spinnaker pole downhauls, one on each side of the
boat, on a block attached close to the bow. These downhaul then head back to
the cockpit. I use these downhaul for the spinnaker of course, but also as a
preventer, attached to the main sheet eye at the end of the boom
All of this is based on a old (actually getting very old) coefficient that does
not take into account that the waterline length is not static, the waterline
length increases as the boat heal and gain speed.
Moreover, as the prismatic coefficient is now better understood, recent boat
designs with
Just bought one for my new boat. Will install and try in June. I’ll be able to
provide first hand experience on my return from Bordeaux in July.
Antoine
(C&C 30, Cousin and now also Ovni36, Maître Bau)
> Le 9 mai 2017 à 16:35, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> a écrit :
>
> Does anyone have one?
Hum, putting that back into shape through hammering does not look like an easy
job to me. Also think that hammering will expand the metal in odd directions
too. I would keep consulting with people more knowledgeable on this type of
work.
Antoine
> Le 15 avr. 2017 à 23:29, tom via CnC-List a éc
Hi Tom,
Yes, the spreader should be upward biased and 10 degrees is the correct angle.
That is to ensure the angle formed between the spreader and the shroud are the
same above and below the spreader.
Now, this angle is usually obtained through the fitting on the mast. I’m
unclear from your post
Hi Bruce and Nancy,
Countless boat of all kinds with no watertight bulkheads have crossed ocean. I
firmly believe that the key is preparation of the crew and preparation of the
boat. In that order.
Preparation of the crew mean:
- Understanding the forces at play on your boat and how your boat rea
Hi Dave,
i would suggest you keep your pole for now. The six inch difference is not much
and means two things: with the wind fully aback, the six inch difference will
mean a slight deficit in opening of the spinnaker and; on a close-reach, when
you have to pull down the pole, the shorter pole wi
k I read somewhere that the Tadoussac is called the cannon?
> Jessica
>
> On Monday, August 22, 2016, Antoine Rose via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> As some other as indicated, I did it (twice) on my C&C 30-1 (1973). And I’m
> still on the list, e
As some other as indicated, I did it (twice) on my C&C 30-1 (1973). And I’m
still on the list, even if I don’t intervene much.
2008 Montréal - Quebec city - Gaspé - Faial (Azores) - Brest (France) - La
Rochelle (France)
2010 Rochefort (France) - Azores - Nova Scotia - Gaspé - Québec (singlehanded
Hi Graham,
I do have the shoal draft version (4’ 3") and race it every Wednesday in our
club where there is another C&C 30 with std draft. Yes, he does point higher
than me for two reasons : deeper keel and his boat is more recent with the
shorter mainsail and a track for the genoa block sheets.
We should remember that the displacement given in the specs is a displacement
calculated by the designer. Actual weight depends on how much the builder was
successful in meeting the specs, especially with the hand laying of fiberglass.
Most boats are actually a little heavier than their specs ev
I've done it on mine. Don't touch the flange, it's the best part. Inside the
flange hole there are two notches to help you hold it while unscrewing. Buy a
cheap socket (for ratchets) of the same size of the inside hole. Then grind a
slot to allow the socket to slide in and lock itself on the not
Hi Joe,
To cross the ocean, I had a 130% genoa specifically cut a bit heavier and
flatter than a usual 135%. It always worked well, even partially rolled.
One feature you may want to discuss with your sailmaker is the height of the
clew. I asked for a higher clew for a number of reasons:
- I don'
Easy DIY
Teak is not the only choice. Iroko is an adequate substitute. The original were
made of mahogany. You can even use recycled pvc planks made for backyard decks
(not the prettiest, but say adios to varnishing)
DIY, you need a ten feet planks of something, a hole saw (ideally on a
press-d
Curtis,
The hook is nice to have, not need to have. I don't have one. I simply have one
line attached to the mast side (lower than the boom). The line then goes up
through the cunningham grommet, down on the other side to a block located at
mast base and then back to the cockpit to a winch throu
Hi David,
To answer your question, we need to go back a bit to the origin the cunningham.
Well, the main sail is up and properly tensioned, which mean that the halyard
point is close to the mast top block to use the full length of your mast. Wind
is light, not too much tension is needed on the
I support all the recommendations to disassemble it first.
By the way, when I disassembled it, this simple pump taught an history lesson.
It is a British made Whale Gusher, a very good pump. My only problem was the
nut, totally eaten out by corrosion. Simple, I'll find another nut. Well, the
nut
Hi guys,
I visited Corsica during my vacations in September. Walking along the docks in
Calvi, I was surprised by a familiar boat design, Watching more closely, yes,
this is a C&C 37, but not really looking exactly like a Canadian one. I chatted
with the owner who confirmed that is was a C&C 37
Hi Curtis,
When I crossed the Atlantic with my C&C 30-1, I had hope that I would be doing
much more downwind than what I got. I almost crossed twice on windward.
A couple of observations on the behavior when going to windward in rough
weather:
- First and foremost, forget roller furling, the boat
Davis is selling a universal key that also fit winch handle socket.
http://www.davisnet.com/marine/products/marine_product.asp?pnum=00381
If you want to try to read French, here is the real thing you're probably
looking for.
http://www.discount-nautic.com/produit/petite-cle-pour-ouverture-bouchons
Curtis, sorry for the delay, I was away.
The whole standing rigging was dismantled and changed with new wires and
Stalock fittings. Spreaders were dismantled and inspected but didn't need
anything. I wouldn't worried about your spreader. Spreaders with some play are
common on many riggings, as l
Curtis,
I still have the original instruction manual for my C&C 30-1 (1973), and there
is no such thing in the manual.
These sail reduction pattern were popular in the era of hank-on sails, when
boats were carrying more than half a dozen sails to cover various wind
conditions.
I guess such a sai
Hi Ron,
I have a C&C 30 1973 (hull built in 1972) with that exact rudder.
Yes, there are some weather helm, especially on a reach with a tiller.
When I purchased the boat in 2000, I noted that an earlier owner bolted a piece
of wood in front of the rudder to increase the compensation by adding sur
I changed the holding tank on my C&C 30 because the thing was leaking.
It starts by removing the vanity, the sink. It's fairly easy, everything is
screwed, not glued.
I had to destroy the back panel because screws were not accessible. I made a
pattern for the new one before destroying the old one
Well, unless you are racing very hard, just easy up the sheets a bit to calm
down the beast and the head will become much more hospitable than the rail. And
the rail is not suitable for all biological requirements either. Easy up the
sheets for five minutes and get the boat back on his heading a
Curtis,
Here are a few tips, based on the assumption that you checked the boat and the
whether before leaving.
- On the ocean, running non-stop 24 hours a day on a C&C 30, with no tide to
take into account, my best day ever was 152 miles. A little over 6,25 knots
average, which meant running at
Ken,
Tip, for the jack line I used climbing straps with plenty of breaking strength
and good elasticity too. Flat straps won't roll under the feet.
Better to use the windward side to hook yourself. Consider an extra pair from
the cockpit to the mast. In heavy weather, out at sea, most of the trip
At sea, you never go out on the deck without your harness attached to a
lifeline, period.
When the weather gets rough, you have to be attached in the cockpit too.
The idea that someone would rely on a 100 feet line to grab is, sorry, wishful
thinking. At six knots, the boat is doing 10 feet per s
More leverage indeed, the problem then become the space needed with the nearby
poles of the bimini.
Antoine
Le 2013-12-28 à 15:03, Chuck S a écrit :
> Antoine,
> Have you tried a 12" handle for the wife? More leverage.
>
___
This List is provided b
Happy holidays Barbara,
What was confusing with old Barient Winches is that the umber didn't reflect
their power ration. When I replaced my old Barient, I found that the equivalent
to the 22 was the 40s. That is, when using a 10 inch long handle, if you put a
10 lbs pressure on the handle, the w
Don't forget to add for the windvane and antenna, plus safety margin.
You,re safe to go under any bridge with 45 clearance. Add another safety margin
for high tension electric wires (beware of lightning arc between the wire and
your boat.
Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)
Le 2013-12-10 à 23:26, Chuck S a
Hi folks,
Now that winter has started, how about resolving an enigma ? Ready ?
Two sailors are challenging each other for a race to determine who's the
fastest. They have only one boat and will take turn to cross the river from
east to west. The goal is to cross the river as fast as possible. Th
Curtis,
- Observation #1: Heavy weather starts much earlier upwind than downwind.
Whatever combination of sails that will be good upwind will be too small
downwind. Upwind, nothing is more fun than a real jib especially cut for the
weather. Don't forget that 20 knots true becomes 25 knots appare
Yes, boat do flex. After two ocean crossing, I dismantled some of the bulkhead
I've added to create more storage, because I needed to gain access to the
chainplates. All the screws were bent to some extent.
But it's not only the boat that flex. When the boat tilt suddenly at the top of
the wave,
It seems that many recommend bringing back the lines to the cockpit for single
handling.
Well, allow me to trow a little rock in the pound and challenge a bit that idea.
I too have single handed a lot and personally, I prefer to have my lines at the
mast. I know, it goes against common wisdom and
Interesting to observe that most people think about adding pieces of gear.
I would put preparation under six sub topics:
- Boat integrity: how do I ensure that the boat is top shape. Think about
hull/deck joint, keel bolts, thru hulls, bulkheads, mast step, chainplates,
rig, steering...
I replace
Brent,
First thing one need to accept on the ocean is the fact that the boat will
start making all sort of interest noises/cracks... After a number of days, you
end up understanding where most of them come from. Example, the deck of C&C 30
is laid over the bulkhead but is not mechanically bonded
ace
> the wind cross up the sails and fall off the wind say to the left and
> keep the wheel turned to the right?
> How did Antoine Rose in open water.
> Thanks for your help.
> Cheers curtis.
>
>
> On 8/8/13, Antoine Rose wrote:
>> A good idea would be to cover yo
A good idea would be to cover your shroud with quarter inch plastic tubing for
the first, say, five feet. With this, the sheet will rub against the plastic
rather than the cable. No chaffing this way. It's good to have it anyway to
prevent chaffing all week at the slip when the genoa is furled a
Aaron,
After my two crossings, the chainplates were heavily leaking inside the boat.
Dismantling the whole thing was part of the repair jobs I had to do on my
return. Here is what you'll find if you decide to take it apart.
The knees are made of plywood fiberglassed to the hull with heavy layers
Curt,
Who ever told you this boat is not a good choice for offshore didn't know what
he was talking about.
I sailed this boat (1973 vintage) across the Atlantic twice, with a crew of
three in 2008 to Europe and singlehanded back in 2010. I've never be been
worried about the safety and seaworthin
It varies. On windward legs, light to moderate winds, on stern cockpit coaming,
leeward, where I get a good view of the genoa telltales. Sometime on the on the
cockpit seat, forward of the helm, same view. When it's blowing, on cockpit
seat, wind ward side, where I can control the main traveller
I wouldn't say it is that rare with small engine. Yanmar engines have a
weakness to this regard.
The fuel pump is a rubber diaphragm activated by one of the engine cam. Over
the year, the rubber membrane can start leaking through a crack in the rubber.
When it starts leaking, the diesel goes in
carried for fresh water and food and how you ever got relaxed enough to catch
> a wink of sleep. Thanks for sharing it with us.
>
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
> -Original Message-----
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-
Rick,
When I bought my C&C 30, I had my first vacation on lake Ontario and the boat
was hauled-out in Collins Bay (near Kingston). When the boat got out of water,
the guys around saw the rudder extension and this is where they told that the
hull #1 (owned by George Hinterholler, and they showed
You already know about the mast step. What else to look for in this old very
sturdy old boats ?
- The galley bulkhead used to be finished with a white plastic film on the side
of the oven. The plastic sheeting was installed before glassing the bulkhead
directly to the hull, over the sheeting. Ov
These are typically Canadian. Try this multi function tool from Lee Valley.
Fifteen screwdrivers in one quality tool. It carries Robertson #0, #1, #2, #3.
Just hope you're not looking for a #00.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=40859&cat=1,43411,43417&ap=1
Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)
Le
A transponder (emitter and receiver) requires it's own antenna, which mean you
cannot use the same as the VHF. This mean a choice to make because two antenna
emitting on VHF channels should be separated by at least 3 feet, and no, the
top of the mast is not that large. For ocean traveling, I dec
Paul,
The difference between a 24 on a 30 is striking but, on top of that, the C&C 30
is one of the stiffest boat ever constructed by C&C. I suggest that you show
this graph to your wife (taken from the C&c Photo Album) :
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technical/stability.htm
It show that the C&C
I owned one for two years, while my boat was stored in France. I had to be able
to
Plus: fast, points very well, easy to steer, very fun to race but requires some
good knowledge in tuning the mast. It requires a 15" rake to preform well. But
the 15" rake makes it more difficult to steer. For cr
You could consider making one yourself too. It is not that difficult and it is
very rewarding over long winter evenings.
Here is one I made of a C&C 25. The wood is mahogany and the waterline is made
of yellowheart.
http://s118.beta.photobucket.com/user/roseant/media/Img_1696.jpg.html?sort=3&o=16
Back to your original question.
For every moment of every day, the sun is at the zenith somewhere on the earth.
Since the earth rotation covers 360 degree in 24 hours, the sun nadir point is
traveling 15 degrees over the earth surface every hour. The ephemeris gives you
precisely that, the locat
e way like 24hr runs of over 500 miles. Amazing
> stuff. It played out like a match race. The 2nd place boat after 78 days at
> sea, was only 3 hrs behind.
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
> From: "Antoine Rose"
> To: cnc-list@cn
Chuck,
The sextant is just a sophisticated piece of equipment to measure an angle with
the precision of a minute, one sixtieth of a degree. A sextant alone will not
get you anywhere without a chronometer. Any sailor visiting England should pay
a visit to the Greenwich Royal Observatory where you
Hi Ed,
I have a 1973, hull # 128, with the roller furling boom (converted to slab
reefing). On mine, the outhaul is adjusted trough a very neat and powerful
system.
The sail cleat is attached to a car running on the boom. Behind the car there
is a sort wire attached to a second car running insid
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