Aaron, After my two crossings, the chainplates were heavily leaking inside the boat. Dismantling the whole thing was part of the repair jobs I had to do on my return. Here is what you'll find if you decide to take it apart.
The knees are made of plywood fiberglassed to the hull with heavy layers of glass. Very solid. The chainplate goes through the deck and are bolted to the forward side of the knees. Water leakage from the deck plates can do three things, depending on where the leak is: - It will wet the deck surrounding the chainplate and change it into a sponge. It was the case on mine. No big deal. In the Fall, remove all the wood you can from the deck. Given it's balsa with vertical grain, water normally doesn't go too far. On mine, I found sound wood about an inch away. Allow it to dry over winter and fill it silica reinforced epoxy in the spring. - Water will follow the chain plate and leak at the bottom. That water normally does not infiltrate too much in the bolts. Remove the bolts and check for humidity inside. Another way to see if the plywood is still ok is to try to tighten the bolts a little. If you see the knees beginning to crunch, the plywood is not much supporting inside. If you cannot tighten much, the wood might still be very strong. Ensure you have strong washers or back plates. - The water find it's way through the top of the knees inside, where it cannot really escape, get the wood wet until it will eventually rot. Ouch. Replace. Normally the top of the knees should have been sealed, but it's hard to see since this was done before putting the deck on. One thing to be careful with chainplate is that, until you dismantle them, you cannot really know what is happening at the junction between the deck and the chainplate. Stainless steel needs oxygen to remain stainless. There is not much oxygen at the deck/chainplate joint. Danger is corrosion going unnoticed. I was happy to see that mines where just perfect. A bit of polishing, passivation paste and it went back in, with two brand new cover plates. The old aluminum ones were to corroded. Have fun. Antoine (C&C Cousin, C&C 30-1, 1973) Le 2013-07-29 à 10:30, Aaron Rouhi a écrit : > Good Morning, > What is the proper procedure the make sure Chainplate Knees are in good > condition on my 30-1? They look and sound solid but on a very rainy day, I > noticed that about a foot under the knee (behind the seat back) where the > overlapping pieces of glass reinforcement ends, There is very small of water > seeping out from underneath the glass. It's only noticeable if I use a brown > tissue paper. I know that I have to reseal the chainplates but I have been > putting it off to next season. Does anyone have any experience with the knees > on a 30-1? > > Cheers, > Aaron R. > Admiral Maggie, > 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540 > Annapolis, MD > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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