I find that since there is a lift of a few feet to the discharge level the
integral switch causes the pump to spend its time (and my electrical energy)
pumping the same litre or so of water up the discharge hose, waiting for it to
trickle back, repumping it again, and so on. Inserting a backflow
That's awesome Brad! Actually you're not far off. I deny letting crew wear
anything more than standard repellant. The Bens 100 and oily Muskol have enough
deet in them to destroy any plastic it touches!!
Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 22, 2015, at 5:06 PM, Bradley Lum
Sam,
The integral switches are “interesting”. Most of them spin the pump impeller
at regular intervals. If they encounter resistance, they continue to run the
pump until less resistance is encountered. There is nothing wrong with this
approach, unless you can hear the pump from your bunk.
Joel,
The big frickin’ hammer (BFH) approach may be the best. A couple of good
whacks should set it free.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
“Midnight Mistress”
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson
via CnC-List
Sent: S
Regardless of what pump you choose rewire. You don’t want stray current
corrosion on your boat.
From: robert via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 4:33 PM
To: Jake Brodersen ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
Jake:
Have the same arrangement as you haveb
You Guys have some strong comments about the Lewmar D2. I was skeptical because
of one comment i had from a rigger that i respect a lot, even if he does not
have a C&C, but a first 42 is a pretty nice boat too. He was a Lewmar winch fan
but a Spinlock clutches lover saying there is no point to b
Jake:
Have the same arrangement as you havebilge pump and switch side by
side at the lowest possible point in the bilgeworks fineand logical!
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2015-03-22 6:50 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:
Josh,
The wiring is certainly suspec
If it is frozen from the interaction of SS and aluminum, applying heat (I use a
heat gun) and giving it a sharp rap with a soft mallet or 2x4 will often loosen
the bind enough to let the PB Blaster in to work.
Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle
From: CnC-Li
I learned the hard way--its the old un-tinned wire. I wouldn't downgrade the
pump size!
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simp
one of my ST winches is frozen. I removed the retaining not but cannot
budge the drum enough to remove the self Tailer.
Suggestions on how to take it apart would be greatly appreciated. I have
removed it and sprayed PB blaster wherever I could.
Joel
35/3
Annapolis.
--
Joel
301 541 8551
___
Hey Brent,
There must be something else wrong with the plastic in your stopper levers, it
never gets that hot in Manitoba! Oh wait, I know what it is, overspray from the
mosquito repellant you need to wear all summer must be breaking down the
plastic.
Brad (former Manitobean)
1985 C&C 33 "Puls
Josh,
The wiring is certainly suspect at this point in the boat's age. I prefer
to mount the pump low in the bilge because most of them push water better
than pulling it uphill. Putting it another way, they blow better than they
suck.
You're still going to have the bilge switch in the
Chuck;
The NC PHRF rule specify penalties for spinnaker poles longer than J. I think
it is -3 for SPL<105% of J and -6 of SPL>105%.
Years ago, when I was racing my 25 mostly in JAM races and doing a lot of RC
duties for my local club and a couple of charity regattas, my local PHRF
handic
As I said - pick a percentage and wait for the squawking.
In our Herring Island fleet, we use the Annapolis to St. Michaels race as one
of our long distance races. Depending on club entrants for that race, we can
have boats in multiple PHRF classes ranging from PHRF A2 through PHRF C/D.
Plus, w
The bildge pump seems to have stopped working, again! I suspect that it
has to do with some of the older wiring becoming corroded and causing a
higher resistance. I had this happen before. I'm planning on replacing
the Rule 500 with a Whale Gulper 320. I recognize that the capacity is
probably
I’m well aware of the problems of running Spin and Jam boats in the same
fleets, and the frustrations of PHRF racing in fleets that have a wide range of
boat types ranging from sport boats like the Viper to boats like the San Juan
21. Time on Time is a boon to fairness in a fleet race, but I can
Big ditto on Lewmars. I have had two Lewmar triples on Touché for nearly 15
years. No slippage. No damage to the lines.
IMHO Lewmar clutches are the BEST!
Dennis C.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 22, 2015, at 6:13 AM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Brad,
>
> Perception had Schaffe
I agree Chuck, I got 8 Lewmar D2's on Alianna and they have worked
flawlessly and did not damage my lines in any noticeable way for the past 8
years...I highly recommend these
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net
On Sun, Mar 22, 2015 at 2:45
BTW, I have a double Lewmar clutch rated for 12mm line in the cellar somewhere.
I used it for a year on Mojito before swapping lines and clutch to the 10mm
size.
Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT
> On Mar 22, 2015, at 12:21 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I believe most of the
Very good summary of things I saw too when racing against different style boats
in the same fleet.
Instead of the fleet placings, we found we could measure our performance best
by comparing us against similar C&Cs. I lost interest in racing when similar
boats stopped competing and we had to ra
You can help worn clutches live longer if you make it a habit to put the tail
around the winch and take up tension before releasing the clutch lever,
especially on the main and jib halyards which are loaded up. A friend of mine
has undersized clutches and insists this procedure be followed all t
> consensus opinion on how to adjust PHRF ratings to allow spin
> and JAM boats to compete in a single (small) fleet
Typical it works poorly. On moderately heavy days were most boats can
get up towards hull speed and sail deep downwind the JAM boats will be
about as fast as the spin boats but wil
I believe most of the stoppers installed in that vintage were Easy Locks. They
are OK. Years of sunshine have likely weakened the levers. That mixed with the
irritating operational requirement of never stopping a static line (I has to be
moving through the stopper as its closing or it jams so ha
Bruno, take a look at the lewmar D2 clutches before you make a final
decision. They have a unique series of plates which the rope runs through
perpendicular. The clutch handle tilts the plates to pinch the rope.
Something to consider.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mar 22
after exchanging photos with another lister, it appears that my clutches are
spinlok XA's and should handle the 3/8 line adequately. It looks like there are
parts available should I need to rebuild.
This list is INVALUABLE for us new C&C owners, thank you all.
Brad
1985 C&C 33 "Pulse"
Sarnia, ON
Brad,
The clutches on my boat (33mkII 1987) are Easylock i think, the model that kind
of look like a lewmar, with long levers of different colours... they do work
with a 3/8 Line but tend to slip a little with main and jib halyards. it might
be wear, but this up grade is on the list. i will go
Brad,
Perception had Schaffer stoppers on her when we got her (85 C&C 33-II K/CB).
They were chewing the new running rigging very quickly - at the recommendation
of our sailmaker we replaced them with lewmars.
The lewmars need to be sized right for your lines, they have smaller ranges
than mos
I'm currently in 12.4 feet of ca-ca.
Rick wrote:
If you’re having senior moments at age 50 you might be in deep ca-ca. For the
rest of us it seems to happen about age 64.
___
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