Chain of any sort is an aftermarket extra. 50' of 1/4" yellow poly is the
best you can hope for.
On 30 October 2013 19:42, j...@svpaws.net wrote:
> Ah, must be standard equipment on those low quality C&C's
>
> John
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Oct 30, 2013, at 9:20 PM, Jim Watts wrote:
>
> G
And the caveat to that is, "If it's got tits,
tires or a transom... it's going to give you trouble."
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
At 08:50 PM 30/10/2013, you wrote:
Well, the old saying..."If it flies, floats, or
f__ks, rent it." keeps coming up. Doesn't work
for me, but it's
Well, the old saying..."If it flies, floats, or f__ks, rent it." keeps
coming up. Doesn't work for me, but it's a mantra for some.
On 30 October 2013 19:20, Rick Brass wrote:
> Now that I think of it, I could’ve bought a real nice SWAN for what my
> support payments totaled. Kind of puts the co
Ah, must be standard equipment on those low quality C&C's
John
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 30, 2013, at 9:20 PM, Jim Watts wrote:
>
> G3 is the stuff they sell at Canadian Tire for hanging lamps and stuff. Comes
> in brass and antique bronze. It's part of the "turnkey pak" for Bayliners.
>
Now that I think of it, I could've bought a real nice SWAN for what my
support payments totaled. Kind of puts the cost of boat ownership in a new
perspective.
As the saying goes: A boat is like a mistress. You have her because you love
her, she will take ALL your money, and .
I guess the di
Really, I don't think the problem of getting the next generation into sailing
is one of cost...though it might be one of perceived cost. Someone with a
pretty low budget can get a good boat like the 35 advertised and make it work
for them for a long time with little investment. When I was young.
G3 is the stuff they sell at Canadian Tire for hanging lamps and stuff.
Comes in brass and antique bronze. It's part of the "turnkey pak" for
Bayliners.
On 30 October 2013 17:42, Rich Knowles wrote:
> 3..?
>
> Rich
>
> > On Oct 30, 2013, at 20:51, "j...@svpaws.net" wrote:
> >
> > I'm sure I kn
Hi Ken
Maritime Canvas Converters is reputable. Or if you have a half decent
sewing machine it is very easy to do it yourself, Sailrite sells the
materials and I can shoot you a short article I did a while back on
replacing a window in a dodger...
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
It is time to get the Strataglass windows in our dodger replaced. One of
them cracked this fall when it got bent a bit more than it should. I'm
looking for recommendations from CnC listers in the Nova Scotia area for a
Marine Canvas shop to do the work.
I know there are a few in the area but I'v
3..?
Rich
> On Oct 30, 2013, at 20:51, "j...@svpaws.net" wrote:
>
> I'm sure I knew this at some point in my life but can anyone explain the
> difference between G40 and G43 chain?
>
> Thanks
>
> John
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C
G43 - G40 = G03. :)
Not 100% sure but I think G43 is industrial or trucking chain. G40 is windlass
chain.
Dennis C.
On Wednesday, October 30, 2013 6:52 PM, "j...@svpaws.net"
wrote:
I'm sure I knew this at some point in my life but can anyone explain the
difference between G40 and G43
Chuck,
>From what I have seen the "younger generation" that own cruising boats seem
to have income levels / life styles that allow / require them to pay the
yards for the work to be done. Clearly this is not the 99%
However, I firmly believe that both Gary Jobson and Nick Hayes are spot on
w
I'm sure I knew this at some point in my life but can anyone explain the
difference between G40 and G43 chain?
Thanks
John
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Great. I'll get there as soon as I can. 8:15 ish.
Rich
> On Oct 30, 2013, at 19:24, Graham Collins wrote:
>
> Who is doing the work Rich?
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
>> On 2013-10-30 11:48 AM, Rich Knowles wrote:
>> Nope. The bolts were perfect. They do/did great wor
SeaPro in Burnside.
Rich
> On Oct 30, 2013, at 19:24, Graham Collins wrote:
>
> Who is doing the work Rich?
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
>> On 2013-10-30 11:48 AM, Rich Knowles wrote:
>> Nope. The bolts were perfect. They do/did great work. It was a tough one.
>>
>>
Who is doing the work Rich?
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2013-10-30 11:48 AM, Rich Knowles wrote:
Nope. The bolts were perfect. They do/did great work. It was a tough one.
Rich
On Oct 30, 2013, at 11:12, "Bill Coleman" wrote:
I hope they didn't heat them to a point where t
Pete,
Last year I purchased a Sparcraft bowsprit in aluminum, unfortunately there was
no way to install the unit and I returned it. They also make the sprit in
Carbon, it is much more expensive. There are several companies that I spoke to
before deciding on the Sparcraft. Selden and Forespar ar
Pete,
You might try Forte, http://fortecarbon.com
I have one of their spinnaker poles that has served me very well, and I notice
that they have bare pole stock as well.
Regards,
Jim Reinardy
C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 30, 2013, at 11:09 AM, "Pete Shelquis
Yes, we need to get younger people into sailing and cruising and racing. How
can that be done?
I noticed at my boatyard or at the dock, I'm probably the youngest boatowner
working on any sailboat and I'll be 60 next summer. There is one 30 year old
who bought a desperation sale Hunter last Spr
Heavy? I made mine from stainless steel!!!
Works great and a lot lighter than the other things up front e.g.
anchor and 200 ft of chain. If you do find a source of the CF tube I'd
love to know about it.
Niall
On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 1:02 PM, Pete Shelquist
wrote:
> I’m still exploring the additi
I Love the Quote. I'll check the GBS connection (just for verification).
My C&C is a 1988 C&C 41 with a wing keel. She is a very tough boat
and sails very well in anything from 7 knots or so and up to 20+ (apparent)
without reefing the main. As to the SA guy , f..k the begrudgers.
Niall
niall.j.buc
If you turn on the key switch and put a voltmeter between the wire to the o/p
sensor and ground, there should be 12V approx there. If there is voltage and
you ground the wire, the buzzer should activate. If there is no voltage check
the other end of the wire and chase the problem from there. The
Understood Bill, I know the buzzer works and that it has power to it. "
ONLY" I will ground the lead to the switch and see if it sounds key
position on but engine off. It it sounds that tells me the wire and led and
buzzer is good and the switch is faulty.
Thanks again guys.
On Wed, Oct 30, 2013
But it does eliminate the buzzer itself as a potential problem...
On 30 October 2013 11:32, wrote:
> **
> Careful about that assumption. According to the Yanmar rep. that I spoke
> to at the Annapolis Sailboat Show, that switch only tests the light and
> buzzer by supplying power to them. It DO
Careful about that assumption. According to the Yanmar rep. that I spoke to
at the Annapolis Sailboat Show, that switch only tests the light and
buzzer by supplying power to them. It DOES NOT check the entire circuit to the
sensor/switch.
Bill
MYSTY
Landfall 39
In a message dated 10/
We weren't on this list before we got our boat, but to address an earlier
concern, of all the resources we used when making a choice about what brand to
buy, sailing anarchy wasn't the least, it was non-existent.
That's not so much a put down of sa as much as a reflection of the fact that
when
Yup. That's what I though.
R
On Oct 30, 2013, at 2:50 PM, Jim Watts wrote:
OP said the buzzer worked with the test switch...so far we are assuming he
didn't just imagine the whole thing.
On 30 October 2013 10:46, Rich Knowles wrote:
True statement. I suggested earlier that if it does
OP said the buzzer worked with the test switch...so far we are assuming he
didn't just imagine the whole thing.
On 30 October 2013 10:46, Rich Knowles wrote:
> True statement. I suggested earlier that if it does not sound when the
> wire is grounded the problem is elsewhere.
>
> A resistance/co
True statement. I suggested earlier that if it does not sound when the wire is
grounded the problem is elsewhere.
A resistance/continuity check across the sensor will quickly tell if it's
faulty. No oil pressure should yield a direct short.
Rich
> On Oct 30, 2013, at 14:36, Bob Dryer wrote:
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 10:47:08 -0300
From: Rich Knowles
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Subject: Re: Stus-List I need a little help with a sender.
Message-ID: <0e3b7b13-bc0f-452f-a0d7-ddbe3fbea...@sailpower.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Yes. The sensor connects the wi
Isn’t it one of the reasons why many of us frequent this list? Especially,
since some do not even have a C&C boat (yet or anymore).
Marek (in Ottawa, on the hard for 4 weeks already)
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 10:08:30 -0400
From: "Rick Brass"
To:
Subject: Re: Stus-List To the barrica
Mark said:
AMEN to that brother! and you can buy insurance for the boat... ___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
We'll, I've not been able to find a grandpa willing to fund my new
"candy" Guess I'm on the hook for the bill!
I still find it a little ironic - I wouldn't make an offer to buy
a boat (which as noted is simply never a good decision
financially) u
i would rather be the kid in the candy store with grand dad buying the
candy!
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek
Dziedzic
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 1:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Boat
Th
This is why you want to have someone with you who is not overly interested in
the outcome. Usually a surveyor is more pessimistic than you are (which you
want).
I know that I cannot be objective, when I am buying something like a boat (or a
car) for myself. The kid in a candy store is a good pa
Forespar would probably be able to supply a raw tube, but it isn't going to
be cheap. They fabricate untapered tubes up to 4.5"
On 30 October 2013 09:02, Pete Shelquist wrote:
> I’m still exploring the addition of a sprit off my foredeck. Does anyone
> have a source for a *4”ID x ¼” wall thick
I just received a west marine e-mail (50% of on purchase of $300)... aluminum
tubing on sale...
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=14562&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50045&subdeptNum=50078&classNum=50079
not a west marine fan ,
Im still exploring the addition of a sprit off my foredeck. Does anyone
have a source for a 4ID x ¼ wall thickness x 10-12 carbon fiber pole?
12 gives us a little wiggle room.
Yes, aluminum is an option, but will weigh a ton. But for this experiment
Ill try it for the right price.
Rick, I can understand your (and most peoples') concerns with SA. I usually
hang out in the gentler parts, like Cruising Anarchy and Fix-it Anarchy,
where there is some mutual respect. It's a lot different from the clowns in
Sailing Anarchy and the participants police it pretty well.
And of course,
Nope. The bolts were perfect. They do/did great work. It was a tough one.
Rich
> On Oct 30, 2013, at 11:12, "Bill Coleman" wrote:
>
> I hope they didn't heat them to a point where there was any color (colour)
> on them, or the chrome will be gone and they may rust.
>
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39
Typical SA poster *crews* on a carbon sail race boat and likes to insult boats
that he could never afford to OWN in the first place.
Joe Della Barba
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 10:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
It's relatively easy to install real oil pressure and temp gauges on a
Yanmar 2GM20. I rehabbed the unused A4 gauges that were on my current boat
so that they worked with the diesel. Mostly, it involves installing new
sensors on the engine, which doesn't cost much, then running new wiring.
I'd
I hope they didn't heat them to a point where there was any color (colour)
on them, or the chrome will be gone and they may rust.
Bill Coleman
C&C 39
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 8:4
I dropped out of SA a number of years ago. I came to realize that the most
vocal contributors on SA are generally those who have the least knowledge
and experience. The last straw was a Yahoo who claimed to have a Newport 41
(I owned my C&C 25 and a Newport 28 at the time) and to have done successi
Yes. The sensor connects the wire to ground when there is no oil pressure and
that sounds the buzzer. If the sensor is defective, it will not connect the
wire to ground and the buzzer will not sound.
So... If you connect the wire to ground, you are doing what the sensor should
do, and the buzz
Connecting through a meter is not the same as connecting the wire
directly to ground.
Bill Bina
On 10/30/2013 9:15 AM, Curtis wrote:
Help
On 10/30/13, Curtis wrote:
Perfect. Thats just what I need. Last night I was at the boat I
cranked the engine and took the wire off the end of the sende
"to connect the wire on the sensor to the engine block. The buzzer
should sound. If it does sound, the sensor is faulty. If there is
still no buzzer, you have some other wiring problem which we can
discuss then."
This Is what you said . Is this correct?
On 10/30/13, Rich Knowles wrote:
> The bu
Help
On 10/30/13, Curtis wrote:
> Perfect. Thats just what I need. Last night I was at the boat I
> cranked the engine and took the wire off the end of the sender and
> there was no change. I did not tuch the wire to a ground. I put a
> meter red to the end of the switch and the black to a groun
Perfect. Thats just what I need. Last night I was at the boat I
cranked the engine and took the wire off the end of the sender and
there was no change. I did not tuch the wire to a ground. I put a
meter red to the end of the switch and the black to a ground. The
gauge looked like it was serching mo
Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartp
The buzzer should sound when the engine oil pressure is low or zero and when
the engine is stopped. The sensor is a normally closed switch which means that,
in a rest position with no oil pressure, it connects the wire on it to the
engine block which is ground. To diagnose, Turn on the key, do N
The easiest way to check an oil pressure switch is to disconnect the wire
from the pressure switch, turn on the key switch to the "RUN" (not START)
position, and then ground the wire. The buzzer should buzz. If not, then the
problem is somewhere in the wiring harness.
Assuming that you the
I have a question about my newly installed 2GM20F.
I just installed this engine last month. It came with its own
electrical panel and looms. It was a good running take out, from
another sailboat
The Buzzer in the old engine I took out would sound the second I
turned the key on. Once I pushed the st
The yard that removed my keel took a day and a half to do the job. Apparent it
was epoxied and glassed on to the point they had to heat the bolts to free them
and allow the keel to drop.
Rich
> On Oct 30, 2013, at 9:15, Don Siddall wrote:
>
> A few years ago I took my 35-1 into a high end re
I guess you had to be there, but having a C&C 35 in 1977 was pretty much like
having the only Ferrari in the neighborhood when everyone else had Chevys and
10 speeds. Even *today* with my ancient sails and towing a 12 foot RIB I pass
the CatBenHuns with their furling mainsails. If ever any inven
Jim I agree with this: "because everyone who believes that a C&C is the
same as a Catalina is the same as a Hunter is not going to put a premium on
buying *my* boat. I'm standing up for the brand. "
When I was shopping around and new to sailing and boats the opinions of
people on message boards wa
>From a single boatshow visit where a Catalina 309 was displayed next to
a Tartan 3400 my view is that a Catalina is not at all like a C&C
The only similarity is that the 309 looked to have its hull designed 30
years ago and that the interior of the Catalina was constructed like a
1970s travel tr
Hi Mark, I wouldn't worry too much about the hold back. They probably are a
little disappointed at the price. I wouldn't take that personally. At least
you can still walk if you don't like something you see. You'll get a lot of
insight from the survey. Bring a notebook and get one of those
I wrote an article for Cruising World by that name. Basically, it entails
attaching the topping lift or a halyard to the middle of the genoa foot to lift
the foot out of the bow wave when you're close reaching. It had nothing to do
with skirting the sail after a tack.
If someone stole my idea an
A few years ago I took my 35-1 into a high end repair shop to have the
keel dropped as part of a repair. To lower the keel the boat was lifted
up a few inches off the floor after the nuts on the keel bolts were
removed. A half hour of pounding with wedges and big sledge hammer were
required to
Check the keel bolt torque, Mark.
Rich
> On Oct 30, 2013, at 2:37, "Dr. Mark Bodnar" wrote:
>
> As for the "cracks" noted on the keel - I saw them when I looked at the boat.
> Tiny cracks along the keel/hull joint -- small enough I bet they'd fill with
> a coat or 2 of bottom paint. Looks
There is a thread on SA right now that mentions them in context of single
handing a J35 I think. It's the one that Jim is involved in a s**t fight
over quality of C&C construction. You could ask the poster there if you
are feeling brave.
Ken H.
On 30 October 2013 01:26, Ted Drossos wrote:
>
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