[RBW] Switchable dynamo hub

[Pete]

I see they finaly turned up at VO:
http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/vo-switchable-dynamo-hub.html
Even Grant seem to be impressed:
http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/knothole_post/322
Lot's of people have talked about it but since it's new asking for a
review is premature so lets speculate wildly!
I'm on a budget so I'd like to ask If you guys think it's a good deal
or should I buy the SON DeLux and eat spuds for a year? Intended use
are commuting, brevés and touring.
Oh, found the producer: http://www.sp-dynamo.com/spproductswitchdisc.html

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[RBW] Re: Switchable dynamo hub

[Pete]

It seems that the 'switchable hub' have a 48mm flange to flange width
witch would make it narrower than the 50mm SON 20R / SON DeLux. There
are those that consider this as a potential issue for loaded touring
( I like to think I have half of my riding life left... ).

 I've been searching for info about the release date for the wide axle
DeLux but faild. It's supose to have 35% more lateral stiffness and
10% more thathe SON28!:
http://radreise-forum.de/topics/550320/Neuer_Son_Deluxe_Wide_Body_Nabendynamo
http://www.idworx-bikes.de/images/artikel/son-rood-big.jpg
Anyone here with more info?

Another thing is that you have to use the large star shape switch at
the flange. So 'senso' auto and manual switches in the lamp will be of
little use. It seems to spin very freely with the dynamo switched off:
http://www.sp-dynamo.com/index.html
But I'm worried about the friction when it's on as I haven't seen any
numbers. Haven't been able to find out what type and quality of the
bearings it use either.

According to this page it might have a built in overvoltage
protection:
http://www.xs4all.nl/~swhs/fiets/tests/verlichting/index_en.html#andere-dynamo%27s
"If that overvoltage protection is internal, it means you can't run a
3 LED lamp (LEDs in series) on it."
Would that rule out the Supernova E3 Triple?
They also claim it will have "noise from the gearing".

Oh yes spuds are great stuff and so much easier to deal with... ; )


On Mar 14, 5:41 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> I sprung, wholly needlessly, for a SON 20R (wheel built by Rich) and I have
> not yet regretted spending the additional money. And I don't even ride very
> far with it. I'd say that, for someone like you, the SON is the natural
> choice. And spuds ain't bad: potato soup, latkes, french fries, potato
> bread, potato pancakes, curried potatoes, samosas; Julie Andrews liked
> potato sandwiches, but that is perverted. You can be like an early 19th
> century Irish peasant and eat the average male 11 lbs/day.
>
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 14, 2011 at 9:50 AM, Pete  wrote:
> > I see they finaly turned up at VO:
> >http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/vo-switchable-dynamo-hub.html
> > Even Grant seem to be impressed:
> >http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/knothole_post/322
> > Lot's of people have talked about it but since it's new asking for a
> > review is premature so lets speculate wildly!
> > I'm on a budget so I'd like to ask If you guys think it's a good deal
> > or should I buy the SON DeLux and eat spuds for a year? Intended use
> > are commuting, brevés and touring.
> > Oh, found the producer:http://www.sp-dynamo.com/spproductswitchdisc.html
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visit this group at
> >http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
>
> --
> Patrick Moore
> Albuquerque, NM
> For professional resumes, contact
> Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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[RBW] Re: Switchable dynamo hub

[Pete]

Thanks for the info and I'm sure it's a great buy! But depending on
the type of riding (brevé) I'm not sure it's right for me. In my book
the switch is better placed on the lamp than on the hub. I'd like to
get a B&M Kraftwerk dynamo charger for the vacation this year and buy
or build a three LED-lamp, and I'm not sure the VO dynamo hub would
work. Have a SON 28 and low end Shimano dynamo that I move around so
when things become clearer I might open my wallet. Cheers! Pete

On Mar 14, 11:31 pm, charlie  wrote:
> From what I understand it uses sealed bearings. I don't worry that it
> has 5 mm (2.5 mm per side not much more than the width of a spoke)
> narrower flange to flange width either. The VO is 45mm flange to
> flange with a 82 mm diameter measurement. The "clutch switch" is the
> switch so you don't need a redundant switched light unless you want
> one. Output is at 6 Volts / 3 watts just like all other common
> dynamos. I don't know about the voltage regulator stuff but I do know
> I can use any decent LED light front and rear and have no problems and
> enough light to really see with. For the $120 it cost me I believe it
> to be well worth it. I don't think the resistance is any worse than
> the current Shimano designs and they are nil with the Schmidt being
> even more nil. I think if you plan to ride with lights all the time
> the Son Deluxe might be the better hub. You just have to decide how
> much you want to spend and whether you will always ride with lights on
> or not.
>
> On Mar 14, 11:07 am, Pete  wrote:
>
> > It seems that the 'switchable hub' have a 48mm flange to flange width
> > witch would make it narrower than the 50mm SON 20R / SON DeLux. There
> > are those that consider this as a potential issue for loaded touring
> > ( I like to think I have half of my riding life left... ).
>
> >  I've been searching for info about the release date for the wide axle
> > DeLux but faild. It's supose to have 35% more lateral stiffness and
> > 10% more thathe 
> > SON28!:http://radreise-forum.de/topics/550320/Neuer_Son_Deluxe_Wide_Body_Nab...
> > Anyone here with more info?
>
> > Another thing is that you have to use the large star shape switch at
> > the flange. So 'senso' auto and manual switches in the lamp will be of
> > little use. It seems to spin very freely with the dynamo switched 
> > off:http://www.sp-dynamo.com/index.html
> > But I'm worried about the friction when it's on as I haven't seen any
> > numbers. Haven't been able to find out what type and quality of the
> > bearings it use either.
>
> > According to this page it might have a built in overvoltage
> > protection:http://www.xs4all.nl/~swhs/fiets/tests/verlichting/index_en.html#ande...
> > "If that overvoltage protection is internal, it means you can't run a
> > 3 LED lamp (LEDs in series) on it."
> > Would that rule out the Supernova E3 Triple?
> > They also claim it will have "noise from the gearing".
>
> > Oh yes spuds are great stuff and so much easier to deal with... ; )
>
> > On Mar 14, 5:41 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>
> > > I sprung, wholly needlessly, for a SON 20R (wheel built by Rich) and I 
> > > have
> > > not yet regretted spending the additional money. And I don't even ride 
> > > very
> > > far with it. I'd say that, for someone like you, the SON is the natural
> > > choice. And spuds ain't bad: potato soup, latkes, french fries, potato
> > > bread, potato pancakes, curried potatoes, samosas; Julie Andrews liked
> > > potato sandwiches, but that is perverted. You can be like an early 19th
> > > century Irish peasant and eat the average male 11 lbs/day.
>
> > > On Mon, Mar 14, 2011 at 9:50 AM, Pete  wrote:
> > > > I see they finaly turned up at VO:
> > > >http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/vo-switchable-dynamo-hub.html
> > > > Even Grant seem to be impressed:
> > > >http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/knothole_post/322
> > > > Lot's of people have talked about it but since it's new asking for a
> > > > review is premature so lets speculate wildly!
> > > > I'm on a budget so I'd like to ask If you guys think it's a good deal
> > > > or should I buy the SON DeLux and eat spuds for a year? Intended use
> > > > are commuting, brevés and touring.
> > > > Oh, found the producer:http://www.sp-dynamo.com/spproductswitchdisc.html
>
> > > > --
> > > > You received this message because you are subscribed

[RBW] Re: Switchable dynamo hub

[Pete]

Thanks for the info and I'm sure it's a great buy! But depending on
the type of riding (brevé) I'm not sure it's right for me. In my book
the switch is better placed on the lamp than on the hub. I'd like to
get a B&M Kraftwerk dynamo charger for the vacation this year and buy
or build a three LED-lamp, and I'm not sure the VO dynamo hub would
work. Have a SON 28 and low end Shimano dynamo that I move around so
when things become clearer I might open my wallet. Cheers! Pete

On Mar 14, 11:31 pm, charlie  wrote:
> From what I understand it uses sealed bearings. I don't worry that it
> has 5 mm (2.5 mm per side not much more than the width of a spoke)
> narrower flange to flange width either. The VO is 45mm flange to
> flange with a 82 mm diameter measurement. The "clutch switch" is the
> switch so you don't need a redundant switched light unless you want
> one. Output is at 6 Volts / 3 watts just like all other common
> dynamos. I don't know about the voltage regulator stuff but I do know
> I can use any decent LED light front and rear and have no problems and
> enough light to really see with. For the $120 it cost me I believe it
> to be well worth it. I don't think the resistance is any worse than
> the current Shimano designs and they are nil with the Schmidt being
> even more nil. I think if you plan to ride with lights all the time
> the Son Deluxe might be the better hub. You just have to decide how
> much you want to spend and whether you will always ride with lights on
> or not.
>
> On Mar 14, 11:07 am, Pete  wrote:
>
> > It seems that the 'switchable hub' have a 48mm flange to flange width
> > witch would make it narrower than the 50mm SON 20R / SON DeLux. There
> > are those that consider this as a potential issue for loaded touring
> > ( I like to think I have half of my riding life left... ).
>
> >  I've been searching for info about the release date for the wide axle
> > DeLux but faild. It's supose to have 35% more lateral stiffness and
> > 10% more thathe 
> > SON28!:http://radreise-forum.de/topics/550320/Neuer_Son_Deluxe_Wide_Body_Nab...
> > Anyone here with more info?
>
> > Another thing is that you have to use the large star shape switch at
> > the flange. So 'senso' auto and manual switches in the lamp will be of
> > little use. It seems to spin very freely with the dynamo switched 
> > off:http://www.sp-dynamo.com/index.html
> > But I'm worried about the friction when it's on as I haven't seen any
> > numbers. Haven't been able to find out what type and quality of the
> > bearings it use either.
>
> > According to this page it might have a built in overvoltage
> > protection:http://www.xs4all.nl/~swhs/fiets/tests/verlichting/index_en.html#ande...
> > "If that overvoltage protection is internal, it means you can't run a
> > 3 LED lamp (LEDs in series) on it."
> > Would that rule out the Supernova E3 Triple?
> > They also claim it will have "noise from the gearing".
>
> > Oh yes spuds are great stuff and so much easier to deal with... ; )
>
> > On Mar 14, 5:41 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>
> > > I sprung, wholly needlessly, for a SON 20R (wheel built by Rich) and I 
> > > have
> > > not yet regretted spending the additional money. And I don't even ride 
> > > very
> > > far with it. I'd say that, for someone like you, the SON is the natural
> > > choice. And spuds ain't bad: potato soup, latkes, french fries, potato
> > > bread, potato pancakes, curried potatoes, samosas; Julie Andrews liked
> > > potato sandwiches, but that is perverted. You can be like an early 19th
> > > century Irish peasant and eat the average male 11 lbs/day.
>
> > > On Mon, Mar 14, 2011 at 9:50 AM, Pete  wrote:
> > > > I see they finaly turned up at VO:
> > > >http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/vo-switchable-dynamo-hub.html
> > > > Even Grant seem to be impressed:
> > > >http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/knothole_post/322
> > > > Lot's of people have talked about it but since it's new asking for a
> > > > review is premature so lets speculate wildly!
> > > > I'm on a budget so I'd like to ask If you guys think it's a good deal
> > > > or should I buy the SON DeLux and eat spuds for a year? Intended use
> > > > are commuting, brevés and touring.
> > > > Oh, found the producer:http://www.sp-dynamo.com/spproductswitchdisc.html
>
> > > > --
> > > > You received this message because you are subscribed

[RBW] Re: Switchable dynamo hub

[Pete]

Thanks for the info and I'm sure it's a great buy! But depending on
the type of riding (brevé) I'm not sure it's right for me. In my book
the switch is better placed on the lamp than on the hub. I'd like to
get a B&M Kraftwerk dynamo charger for the vacation this year and buy
or build a three LED-lamp, and I'm not sure the VO dynamo hub would
work. Have a SON 28 and low end Shimano dynamo that I move around so
when things become clearer I might open my wallet. Cheers! Pete

On Mar 14, 11:31 pm, charlie  wrote:
> From what I understand it uses sealed bearings. I don't worry that it
> has 5 mm (2.5 mm per side not much more than the width of a spoke)
> narrower flange to flange width either. The VO is 45mm flange to
> flange with a 82 mm diameter measurement. The "clutch switch" is the
> switch so you don't need a redundant switched light unless you want
> one. Output is at 6 Volts / 3 watts just like all other common
> dynamos. I don't know about the voltage regulator stuff but I do know
> I can use any decent LED light front and rear and have no problems and
> enough light to really see with. For the $120 it cost me I believe it
> to be well worth it. I don't think the resistance is any worse than
> the current Shimano designs and they are nil with the Schmidt being
> even more nil. I think if you plan to ride with lights all the time
> the Son Deluxe might be the better hub. You just have to decide how
> much you want to spend and whether you will always ride with lights on
> or not.
>
> On Mar 14, 11:07 am, Pete  wrote:
>
> > It seems that the 'switchable hub' have a 48mm flange to flange width
> > witch would make it narrower than the 50mm SON 20R / SON DeLux. There
> > are those that consider this as a potential issue for loaded touring
> > ( I like to think I have half of my riding life left... ).
>
> >  I've been searching for info about the release date for the wide axle
> > DeLux but faild. It's supose to have 35% more lateral stiffness and
> > 10% more thathe 
> > SON28!:http://radreise-forum.de/topics/550320/Neuer_Son_Deluxe_Wide_Body_Nab...
> > Anyone here with more info?
>
> > Another thing is that you have to use the large star shape switch at
> > the flange. So 'senso' auto and manual switches in the lamp will be of
> > little use. It seems to spin very freely with the dynamo switched 
> > off:http://www.sp-dynamo.com/index.html
> > But I'm worried about the friction when it's on as I haven't seen any
> > numbers. Haven't been able to find out what type and quality of the
> > bearings it use either.
>
> > According to this page it might have a built in overvoltage
> > protection:http://www.xs4all.nl/~swhs/fiets/tests/verlichting/index_en.html#ande...
> > "If that overvoltage protection is internal, it means you can't run a
> > 3 LED lamp (LEDs in series) on it."
> > Would that rule out the Supernova E3 Triple?
> > They also claim it will have "noise from the gearing".
>
> > Oh yes spuds are great stuff and so much easier to deal with... ; )
>
> > On Mar 14, 5:41 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>
> > > I sprung, wholly needlessly, for a SON 20R (wheel built by Rich) and I 
> > > have
> > > not yet regretted spending the additional money. And I don't even ride 
> > > very
> > > far with it. I'd say that, for someone like you, the SON is the natural
> > > choice. And spuds ain't bad: potato soup, latkes, french fries, potato
> > > bread, potato pancakes, curried potatoes, samosas; Julie Andrews liked
> > > potato sandwiches, but that is perverted. You can be like an early 19th
> > > century Irish peasant and eat the average male 11 lbs/day.
>
> > > On Mon, Mar 14, 2011 at 9:50 AM, Pete  wrote:
> > > > I see they finaly turned up at VO:
> > > >http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/vo-switchable-dynamo-hub.html
> > > > Even Grant seem to be impressed:
> > > >http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/knothole_post/322
> > > > Lot's of people have talked about it but since it's new asking for a
> > > > review is premature so lets speculate wildly!
> > > > I'm on a budget so I'd like to ask If you guys think it's a good deal
> > > > or should I buy the SON DeLux and eat spuds for a year? Intended use
> > > > are commuting, brevés and touring.
> > > > Oh, found the producer:http://www.sp-dynamo.com/spproductswitchdisc.html
>
> > > > --
> > > > You received this message because you are subscribed

[RBW] Re: Grant refers to this helmet guy for some reason

[Pete]

Jan, I for one use helmets every time since they've saved my bacon
more than once. No doubt a helmet will help once the accident is a
fact. But I think Mikael Colville Andersen's point is that cites does
not live up to their responsibility to offer cyclist a safe liveable
environment. Instead we are spoon fed that riding bikes are unsafe and
that it's every cyclist own responsibility, even a duty, to use a
helmet! I think we need to demand a better traffic environment, more
liveable cities and after that is done I'm prepared to discus the use
of helmets for cyclist. But sadly we are far from this goal, even in
Sweden... ; )

On Mar 16, 5:10 pm, Jan Heine  wrote:
> >  to get people on bicycles, you don't want to force them to wear a helmet
> >  and imply that they are doing something more dangerous than driving.
>
> The same arguments were made when Preston Tucker wanted to include
> seatbelts in his cars. His board thought it implied that Tucker cars
> were unsafe. (Instead, it was Volvo who introduced seatbelts. I guess
> they weren't afraid that their cars might be considered unsafe.)
>
> Today, most of us use seatbelts, because we are aware of the risks of
> driving. Seatbelts don't keep people from driving. It seems to make
> little sense to pretend that riding bikes is risk-free. Do we really
> want to foster a teenage-like feeling of invincibility in cyclists?
> (Like my neighbor 20 years ago, who took up cycling in middle age.
> She loved it, riding against the flow of traffic, helmet-free on an
> old bike with no real brakes.)
>
> The bigger issue that nobody addresses is simple: A seatbelt or a
> helmet is your last line of defense. Accident avoidance through
> competent driving/riding is a much more important component of your
> safety. With cars, our focus on technology over driver education has
> had the U.S. slip from the safest country for drivers to one of the
> least safe. (However, that statistic in the NY Times was per driver,
> not per miles, and Americans drive more... so one might want to
> correct for that.)
>
> At Bicycle Quarterly, we are considering looking at the statistics
> and figuring out whether helmets make riding safer, whether risk
> compensation really is a factor, etc. I believe there is a need for
> real data, rather than opinion, on the subject. It's not that hard to
> figure this out, especially when you compare different countries and
> populations. But of course, like most quasi-religious topics, it
> would be a hotly debated issue. What do you guys think?
>
> Jan Heine
> Editor
> Bicycle Quarterlyhttp://www.bikequarterly.com
>
> Follow our blog athttp://janheine.wordpress.com/

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[RBW] Re: Switchable dynamo hub

[Pete]

Oh yes, it seems that Chris at VO didn't let me post a link to the
producer of their hubs in his blog.
Make me wonder... ; )


On Mar 16, 4:51 pm, Pete  wrote:
> Thanks for the info and I'm sure it's a great buy! But depending on
> the type of riding (brevé) I'm not sure it's right for me. In my book
> the switch is better placed on the lamp than on the hub. I'd like to
> get a B&M Kraftwerk dynamo charger for the vacation this year and buy
> or build a three LED-lamp, and I'm not sure the VO dynamo hub would
> work. Have a SON 28 and low end Shimano dynamo that I move around so
> when things become clearer I might open my wallet. Cheers! Pete
>
> On Mar 14, 11:31 pm, charlie  wrote:
>
> > From what I understand it uses sealed bearings. I don't worry that it
> > has 5 mm (2.5 mm per side not much more than the width of a spoke)
> > narrower flange to flange width either. The VO is 45mm flange to
> > flange with a 82 mm diameter measurement. The "clutch switch" is the
> > switch so you don't need a redundant switched light unless you want
> > one. Output is at 6 Volts / 3 watts just like all other common
> > dynamos. I don't know about the voltage regulator stuff but I do know
> > I can use any decent LED light front and rear and have no problems and
> > enough light to really see with. For the $120 it cost me I believe it
> > to be well worth it. I don't think the resistance is any worse than
> > the current Shimano designs and they are nil with the Schmidt being
> > even more nil. I think if you plan to ride with lights all the time
> > the Son Deluxe might be the better hub. You just have to decide how
> > much you want to spend and whether you will always ride with lights on
> > or not.
>
> > On Mar 14, 11:07 am, Pete  wrote:
>
> > > It seems that the 'switchable hub' have a 48mm flange to flange width
> > > witch would make it narrower than the 50mm SON 20R / SON DeLux. There
> > > are those that consider this as a potential issue for loaded touring
> > > ( I like to think I have half of my riding life left... ).
>
> > >  I've been searching for info about the release date for the wide axle
> > > DeLux but faild. It's supose to have 35% more lateral stiffness and
> > > 10% more thathe 
> > > SON28!:http://radreise-forum.de/topics/550320/Neuer_Son_Deluxe_Wide_Body_Nab...
> > > Anyone here with more info?
>
> > > Another thing is that you have to use the large star shape switch at
> > > the flange. So 'senso' auto and manual switches in the lamp will be of
> > > little use. It seems to spin very freely with the dynamo switched 
> > > off:http://www.sp-dynamo.com/index.html
> > > But I'm worried about the friction when it's on as I haven't seen any
> > > numbers. Haven't been able to find out what type and quality of the
> > > bearings it use either.
>
> > > According to this page it might have a built in overvoltage
> > > protection:http://www.xs4all.nl/~swhs/fiets/tests/verlichting/index_en.html#ande...
> > > "If that overvoltage protection is internal, it means you can't run a
> > > 3 LED lamp (LEDs in series) on it."
> > > Would that rule out the Supernova E3 Triple?
> > > They also claim it will have "noise from the gearing".
>
> > > Oh yes spuds are great stuff and so much easier to deal with... ; )
>
> > > On Mar 14, 5:41 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>
> > > > I sprung, wholly needlessly, for a SON 20R (wheel built by Rich) and I 
> > > > have
> > > > not yet regretted spending the additional money. And I don't even ride 
> > > > very
> > > > far with it. I'd say that, for someone like you, the SON is the natural
> > > > choice. And spuds ain't bad: potato soup, latkes, french fries, potato
> > > > bread, potato pancakes, curried potatoes, samosas; Julie Andrews liked
> > > > potato sandwiches, but that is perverted. You can be like an early 19th
> > > > century Irish peasant and eat the average male 11 lbs/day.
>
> > > > On Mon, Mar 14, 2011 at 9:50 AM, Pete  wrote:
> > > > > I see they finaly turned up at VO:
> > > > >http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/vo-switchable-dynamo-hub.html
> > > > > Even Grant seem to be impressed:
> > > > >http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/knothole_post/322
> > > > > Lot's of people have talked about it but since it's new asking for a
> > > &g

[RBW] Re: Switchable dynamo hub

[Pete]

Oh yes, it seems that Chris at VO didn't let me post a link to the
producer of their hubs in his blog.
Make me wonder... ; )


On Mar 16, 4:51 pm, Pete  wrote:
> Thanks for the info and I'm sure it's a great buy! But depending on
> the type of riding (brevé) I'm not sure it's right for me. In my book
> the switch is better placed on the lamp than on the hub. I'd like to
> get a B&M Kraftwerk dynamo charger for the vacation this year and buy
> or build a three LED-lamp, and I'm not sure the VO dynamo hub would
> work. Have a SON 28 and low end Shimano dynamo that I move around so
> when things become clearer I might open my wallet. Cheers! Pete
>
> On Mar 14, 11:31 pm, charlie  wrote:
>
> > From what I understand it uses sealed bearings. I don't worry that it
> > has 5 mm (2.5 mm per side not much more than the width of a spoke)
> > narrower flange to flange width either. The VO is 45mm flange to
> > flange with a 82 mm diameter measurement. The "clutch switch" is the
> > switch so you don't need a redundant switched light unless you want
> > one. Output is at 6 Volts / 3 watts just like all other common
> > dynamos. I don't know about the voltage regulator stuff but I do know
> > I can use any decent LED light front and rear and have no problems and
> > enough light to really see with. For the $120 it cost me I believe it
> > to be well worth it. I don't think the resistance is any worse than
> > the current Shimano designs and they are nil with the Schmidt being
> > even more nil. I think if you plan to ride with lights all the time
> > the Son Deluxe might be the better hub. You just have to decide how
> > much you want to spend and whether you will always ride with lights on
> > or not.
>
> > On Mar 14, 11:07 am, Pete  wrote:
>
> > > It seems that the 'switchable hub' have a 48mm flange to flange width
> > > witch would make it narrower than the 50mm SON 20R / SON DeLux. There
> > > are those that consider this as a potential issue for loaded touring
> > > ( I like to think I have half of my riding life left... ).
>
> > >  I've been searching for info about the release date for the wide axle
> > > DeLux but faild. It's supose to have 35% more lateral stiffness and
> > > 10% more thathe 
> > > SON28!:http://radreise-forum.de/topics/550320/Neuer_Son_Deluxe_Wide_Body_Nab...
> > > Anyone here with more info?
>
> > > Another thing is that you have to use the large star shape switch at
> > > the flange. So 'senso' auto and manual switches in the lamp will be of
> > > little use. It seems to spin very freely with the dynamo switched 
> > > off:http://www.sp-dynamo.com/index.html
> > > But I'm worried about the friction when it's on as I haven't seen any
> > > numbers. Haven't been able to find out what type and quality of the
> > > bearings it use either.
>
> > > According to this page it might have a built in overvoltage
> > > protection:http://www.xs4all.nl/~swhs/fiets/tests/verlichting/index_en.html#ande...
> > > "If that overvoltage protection is internal, it means you can't run a
> > > 3 LED lamp (LEDs in series) on it."
> > > Would that rule out the Supernova E3 Triple?
> > > They also claim it will have "noise from the gearing".
>
> > > Oh yes spuds are great stuff and so much easier to deal with... ; )
>
> > > On Mar 14, 5:41 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>
> > > > I sprung, wholly needlessly, for a SON 20R (wheel built by Rich) and I 
> > > > have
> > > > not yet regretted spending the additional money. And I don't even ride 
> > > > very
> > > > far with it. I'd say that, for someone like you, the SON is the natural
> > > > choice. And spuds ain't bad: potato soup, latkes, french fries, potato
> > > > bread, potato pancakes, curried potatoes, samosas; Julie Andrews liked
> > > > potato sandwiches, but that is perverted. You can be like an early 19th
> > > > century Irish peasant and eat the average male 11 lbs/day.
>
> > > > On Mon, Mar 14, 2011 at 9:50 AM, Pete  wrote:
> > > > > I see they finaly turned up at VO:
> > > > >http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/vo-switchable-dynamo-hub.html
> > > > > Even Grant seem to be impressed:
> > > > >http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/knothole_post/322
> > > > > Lot's of people have talked about it but since it's new asking for a
> > > &g

[RBW] Re: Switchable dynamo hub

[Pete]

Shimano have a new Alfine dynamo hub they claim has the lowest resistance 
ever! 
Reason being it only have a 1,5w output for LED-lamps. Anyone know if SON 
Edelux and others will work?
Weighs 420 gram witch is only 25g more than the DeLux hub. I guess hub shell 
only have half of the internals:
http://www.shimano-nordic.com/publish/content/global_cycle/sv/se/index/news_and_info/news/produktnyheter_fran.html
http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/shimano-launch-10-speed-deore-groupset-for-2012-29466/

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[RBW] Ang.: Re: Speaking of that new RR 43 ....

[Pete]

Very grateful to Grant for sharing the RR free of charge on the interweb! 
So I was a bit bemused when I read the post from May 6:
http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/knothole_post/356
Would anyone care to explain what he's so 'friggin' stressed out over?

Tack!
Pedalling 'I-have-just-found-me-a-rb-t' Pete  ; )

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[RBW] Ang.: Y'all *have* heard about this one?

[Pete]

Would call that an insult and abomination of the bicycle design!
Not easy being in Grant's shoes these days and constantly associated with 
with the Bridgestone brand:
1988 Bridgestone Bicycle 
Calendar

; )

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Ang.: Re: [RBW] Ang.: Re: Speaking of that new RR 43 ....

[Pete]

I'm so sorry for posting the question! 
Wish nothing but the best for Grant and Rivendell Bikes!
Please delete it if you like.
/Pete

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[RBW] Re: Any VO drop bar guinea pigs yet?

[Pete]

Me too, a review would be fab!

On 10 Dec, 18:18, Travis  wrote:
> They look pretty interesting. The ramp seems to be completely level -
> outdoing even the Noodle. The drops are also level, which I think will
> look nicer but be slightly less comfortable than an angled drop.
>
> http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/handlebars/grand-cr...
>
> -Travis

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[RBW] Re: OT: Redirect Notice on Google Groups

[Pete]

My links recently starting pointing to "about:blank". So I have to
login through google to read the posts.  I assumed this was due to a
recent change on Google groups, but I have not seen a fix yet.

Pete


On Jan 21, 7:16 am, "Bill M."  wrote:
> I think this is a security 'feature'.  It prevents you following a
> tiny url to a potentially malicious web page without your knowledge.
> Not something we have had to worry about here so far, but other groups
> attract different sorts of folks.
>
> Bill
>
> On Jan 20, 8:30 pm, rob markwardt  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Hi,
> >      Sorry for the off topic post...I'll post a pic of my Bleriot with
> > it's newly arrived fenders as soon as I get them installed...should be
> > on my 2012.
> >     In the past few days, when clicking on a link in a message (only
> > in Google groups), I get sent to a "redirect notice" page with
> > following message:   The previous page is sending you to "wherever the
> > link is"and If you do not want to visit that page, you can "go
> > back to wherever you came from".  Of course I click on the "where I
> > want to go" link (umm, I clicked on  the freeking link because I DO
> > want to go there) and it takes me there, but this is taking valuable
> > seconds away from me that could be spent looking at bikes, bike parts,
> > and pictures of people riding bikes!
> >    Am I the only one getting these?  Is google sucking data from my
> > computer...boring...most of the time..? Can I get rid of it?
>
> > Thank you.
> > Rob "I'll now get back to reading that "Micheneresque" post" Markwardt- 
> > Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Complete bike for $1000?

[Pete]

The Surly LHT 26" wheel version will be available in sizes over 54cm
beginning next year:
http://urbanvelo.org/surly-long-haul-trucker-26/
So you have a large variety of comfy tires to choose from.

On 25 Okt, 20:58, newenglandbike  wrote:
> I would definitely go for the LHT-   your Dad will love it.   My
> family and I just bought one for my Dad, and I was kind of jealous, it
> was sooo nice.    We went all out; I put a brooks b68 saddle, SKS
> fenders, a nitto campee rack, and albatross bars on it.    It looks
> really awesome.    But again, you'll probably have to spend more than
> a grand.   How much more depends on what you outfit it with.
>
> On Oct 25, 1:53 pm, Weird Harold  wrote:
>
> > My dad is mostly going to ride on some dirt trails and paved trails in
> > Fort Worth, Texas. He's 70, so I want to get him something comfortable
> > to ride, but cool, too.
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[RBW] Re: Some Ti for Atlantis/Bombadil?

[Pete]

I have used some thin wall Ti handlebars and seatpost over the years
and found them not only very durable, but also have very good
vibration dampening properties.

On 25 Okt, 00:26, Mojo  wrote:
> This late summer I sat down on my Ti B17 after a little out-of-saddle
> jam over a hill and heard a click and tinkle as something hit the
> road. I went back and saw a piece of metal on the road, and thought
> perhaps I had just brushed it with my tire. Then I noticed my saddle
> was squishy. I stopped and found I had broken the tension shackle and
> bolt in the nose of the saddlehttp://www.wallbike.com/accessories/tension.html
> I bought new steel bits from wallbike and the saddle rides on. Hey and
> I know what you are thinking, I weigh 187lbs!
>
> On Oct 24, 9:28 am, James Warren  wrote:
>
> > I think I'm gonna try this out:
>
> >http://www.bikeman.com/CARV-MYTIBAR.html
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[RBW] Nice handmade tourers FS on 'bay

[Pete]

(No affiliation!) These two nice tourers has been re listed as the
price seem a bit too steep. Bob-ish lookin' so I thought they might be
of interest to you all. I've never heard of either of the makers
before so if anyone could tell me more please do!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350267216874&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNARL:GB:1123
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380169722452&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNARL:GB:1123
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[RBW] Re: Nice handmade tourers FS on 'bay

[Pete]

I always thought the first Stumpjumper were copies of  frames made by
Tom Ritchey for the original MountainBike company (owned by Gary
Fisher and Charlie Kelley and later sold to Trek) that Mike Sinyard
bought and had tig welded in Japan:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_the_mountain_bike_and_mountain_biking


On 26 Okt, 06:37, CycloFiend  wrote:
> on 10/25/09 2:50 PM, Angus at angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
>
>
>
> > Nice looking bikes.  I think I remember Maynard H. mentioning a
> > "Lighthouse" in one of his articles many years ago.
>
> Yep.
>
> Lighthouse was Tim Neenan. He also designed a bike they called
> "Stumpjumper".  Got some press.
>
> He's actually making bikes under the Lighthouse name again 
> -http://www.lighthousecycles.com/
>
> --
> Jim Edgar
> cyclofi...@earthlink.net
>
> Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
> Current Classics - Cross Bikes
> Singlespeed - Working Bikes
>
> "Whatever you do will be insignificant, but it is very important that you do
> it."
>     Mahatma Gandhi
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[RBW] Re: Nice handmade tourers FS on 'bay

[Pete]

Tom Ritchey made frames "haphazzard"?
I don't think so!

On 26 Okt, 14:02, JoelMatthews  wrote:
> > I always thought the first Stumpjumper were copies of  frames made by
> > Tom Ritchey for the original MountainBike company (owned by Gary
> > Fisher and Charlie Kelley and later sold to Trek) that Mike Sinyard
> > bought and had tig welded in Japan
>
> Inspired perhaps.  Stumpjumpers were massed produced according to
> strict quality control standards, not a haphazzard collection of sizes
> and braze ons.  Someone had to put the designs on blue prints.
>
> On Oct 26, 7:45 am, Pete  wrote:
>
> > I always thought the first Stumpjumper were copies of  frames made by
> > Tom Ritchey for the original MountainBike company (owned by Gary
> > Fisher and Charlie Kelley and later sold to Trek) that Mike Sinyard
> > bought and had tig welded in 
> > Japan:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_the_mountain_bike_and_mountai...
>
> > On 26 Okt, 06:37, CycloFiend  wrote:
>
> > > on 10/25/09 2:50 PM, Angus at angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
>
> > > > Nice looking bikes.  I think I remember Maynard H. mentioning a
> > > > "Lighthouse" in one of his articles many years ago.
>
> > > Yep.
>
> > > Lighthouse was Tim Neenan. He also designed a bike they called
> > > "Stumpjumper".  Got some press.
>
> > > He's actually making bikes under the Lighthouse name again 
> > > -http://www.lighthousecycles.com/
>
> > > --
> > > Jim Edgar
> > > cyclofi...@earthlink.net
>
> > > Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
> > > Current Classics - Cross Bikes
> > > Singlespeed - Working Bikes
>
> > > "Whatever you do will be insignificant, but it is very important that you 
> > > do
> > > it."
> > >     Mahatma Gandhi- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Re: Some Ti for Atlantis/Bombadil?

[Pete]

Due to the current price hike I wouldn't buy the ti-railed Brooks
solely on the difference of weight. But if you have the funds and
intend to fit it to your long distance ride the Ti-rails superior
ability to dampen road buzz is very noticeable and worth the extra
dosh!

On 26 Okt, 15:37, James Warren  wrote:
> I have a Ti Brooks, because when I bought mine, I think they were only $120 
> while the normals were $70. Pretty good deal, worth it to save 150 grams or 
> whatever it is, because lighter is better. Not worth it now for the price 
> difference. Also, the Ti model at the time came in a color which looked 
> greyt.-Original Message-
> From: Bruce
> Sent: Oct 26, 2009 6:31 AM
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> Subject: [RBW] Re: Some Ti for Atlantis/Bombadil?weight weenies are not often 
> found on any leather saddle. The Ti models offer a jewelry cachet to a device 
> that really is just designed to hold your bottom while you pedal. It's less 
> elegant to think of it that way though :)
>
>
>
> I concur with Joel's observations.
>
> From:JoelMatthews To:RBW Owners Bunch 
> Sent:Mon, October 26, 2009 7:58:51 
> AMSubject:[RBW] Re: Some Ti for Atlantis/Bombadil?
> It is a point of rapt debate among weight weenies and those who are
> not.  I side with those who say the leather is so thick and otherwise
> so much the source of the qualities of a leather saddle that any
> slight difference in the properties of steel and Ti would be
> immeasurable.
> What drives the differences in leather saddles is the amount of
> leather used, shape of the saddle, and adding springs.
>
>
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[RBW] Re: Some Ti for Atlantis/Bombadil?

[Pete]

Did I mention the hide?
I have four seat with ti and two with steel rails and the difference
are there no doubt.
All those I know that ride centuries say the same.
You really aught to work on that bad habit of talking down to people.


On 26 Okt, 18:03, JoelMatthews  wrote:
> > Due to the current price hike I wouldn't buy the ti-railed Brooks
> > solely on the difference of weight. But if you have the funds and
> > intend to fit it to your long distance ride the Ti-rails superior
> > ability to dampen road buzz is very noticeable and worth the extra
> > dosh!
>
> I cannot agree that there is noticeable road dampening abilities.
> Every leather saddle feels different from the other because leather is
> an organic material (to be precise - the skin of a dead cow).  People
> who work leather call themselves artisans for a reason.  You cannot
> assume conformity in a dead cow's skin.  You must learn to be able to
> work with whatever nature gives you.
>
> The thickness and preparation of the leather contols road buzz.  Minor
> differences between steel and Ti rail vibration dampening would never
> be enough to counter the differences between one piece of leather and
> another.
>
> On Oct 26, 11:40 am, Pete  wrote:
>
> > Due to the current price hike I wouldn't buy the ti-railed Brooks
> > solely on the difference of weight. But if you have the funds and
> > intend to fit it to your long distance ride the Ti-rails superior
> > ability to dampen road buzz is very noticeable and worth the extra
> > dosh!
>
> > On 26 Okt, 15:37, James Warren  wrote:
>
> > > I have a Ti Brooks, because when I bought mine, I think they were only 
> > > $120 while the normals were $70. Pretty good deal, worth it to save 150 
> > > grams or whatever it is, because lighter is better. Not worth it now for 
> > > the price difference. Also, the Ti model at the time came in a color 
> > > which looked greyt.-Original Message-
> > > From: Bruce
> > > Sent: Oct 26, 2009 6:31 AM
> > > To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> > > Subject: [RBW] Re: Some Ti for Atlantis/Bombadil?weight weenies are not 
> > > often found on any leather saddle. The Ti models offer a jewelry cachet 
> > > to a device that really is just designed to hold your bottom while you 
> > > pedal. It's less elegant to think of it that way though :)
>
> > > I concur with Joel's observations.
>
> > > From:JoelMatthews To:RBW Owners Bunch 
> > > Sent:Mon, October 26, 2009 7:58:51 
> > > AMSubject:[RBW] Re: Some Ti for Atlantis/Bombadil?
> > > It is a point of rapt debate among weight weenies and those who are
> > > not.  I side with those who say the leather is so thick and otherwise
> > > so much the source of the qualities of a leather saddle that any
> > > slight difference in the properties of steel and Ti would be
> > > immeasurable.
> > > What drives the differences in leather saddles is the amount of
> > > leather used, shape of the saddle, and adding springs.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddle Review

[Pete]

Thanks for the review and for charring pictures of such beautiful
piece of art!
The cork version certainly look the business but I'm also not to fond
of the plastic rear. I'll will wait for the the narrow race version
that will be available soon, problem is there doesn't seem to be any
saddle bag mounts:
http://wallbike.com/blog/2009/09/02/new-berthoud-race-saddle/
Cork:
http://www.core77.com/gallery/EUROBIKE%20SHOW%202009/92.asp?current_image_number=57¤t_photo_id=13766&album_id=108&context_id=1
Another review:
http://www.roadcyclinguk.com/gear-news/gilles-berthoud-gents-leather-saddle-first-ride/4567.html

On 29 Nov, 04:47, Aaron Thomas  wrote:
> John,
>
> Thanks for posting the saddle review. But even more thanks to the link
> of pics of your fine bike. I really like what you did with the red
> tape and amber shellac. The ruby color is quite elegant.
>
> Aaron
>
> On Nov 28, 7:30 pm, eflayer  wrote:
>
> > if your Brooks was set up correctly, you would not slide in one
> > direction of the other.  You would be cradled nicely in the crotch of
> > the banana...so to speak.  Not saying your current choice is not the
> > best for you, but the sweet spot for a Brooks may not be easy to
> > find.  And thanks for the review and good luck on that fine new
> > saddle.
>
> > On Nov 28, 7:02 pm, John Ferguson  wrote:
>
> > > Hi all,
>
> > > I've had a chance to ride 500 or 600 miles on a Berthoud saddle. To
> > > say I'm quite pleased would be an understatement, so I wrote a little
> > > review.
>
> > > Apologies to those of you who saw this elsewhere.
>
> > >http://tinyurl.com/yz98jdo
>
> > > John

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddle Review

[Pete]

Sorry Ryan, I only know what you can read in those links. My guess is
it's very close to the Brooks Swift/Swallow witch are great for a more
forward leaning position:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/saddles/brooks-swift.html
Like John mentioned in he's review there will also be matching leather
bar tape and bar end plugs. But I'd like to use cotton bar tape and
shellac so I might get the natural hide and dye it brown. One detail
that I find particularly interesting is that the rails allow the
saddle to be mounted one or two cm further back. The usable part of
the rails on my Swift are a  bit short and my Mercian on the verge of
being to small.
More Berthoud pictures:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wallblog/3904651113/in/set-72157620611802884/

On Nov 29, 7:26 pm, "rswat...@me.com"  wrote:
> Do you know the dimensions of the Berthoud "race" saddle? It sounds  
> promising.
> Has anyone compared the current Berthoud saddle with the Brooks Swift?
>
> Cheers,
> Ryan
>
> On Nov 29, 2009, at 2:55, Pete  wrote:
>
> > Thanks for the review and for charring pictures of such beautiful
> > piece of art!
> > The cork version certainly look the business but I'm also not to fond
> > of the plastic rear. I'll will wait for the the narrow race version
> > that will be available soon, problem is there doesn't seem to be any
> > saddle bag mounts:
> >http://wallbike.com/blog/2009/09/02/new-berthoud-race-saddle/
> > Cork:
> >http://www.core77.com/gallery/EUROBIKE%20SHOW%202009/92.asp?current_i...
> > Another review:
> >http://www.roadcyclinguk.com/gear-news/gilles-berthoud-gents-leather-...
>
> > On 29 Nov, 04:47, Aaron Thomas  wrote:
> >> John,
>
> >> Thanks for posting the saddle review. But even more thanks to the  
> >> link
> >> of pics of your fine bike. I really like what you did with the red
> >> tape and amber shellac. The ruby color is quite elegant.
>
> >> Aaron
>
> >> On Nov 28, 7:30 pm, eflayer  wrote:
>
> >>> if your Brooks was set up correctly, you would not slide in one
> >>> direction of the other.  You would be cradled nicely in the crotch  
> >>> of
> >>> the banana...so to speak.  Not saying your current choice is not the
> >>> best for you, but the sweet spot for a Brooks may not be easy to
> >>> find.  And thanks for the review and good luck on that fine new
> >>> saddle.
>
> >>> On Nov 28, 7:02 pm, John Ferguson  wrote:
>
> >>>> Hi all,
>
> >>>> I've had a chance to ride 500 or 600 miles on a Berthoud saddle. To
> >>>> say I'm quite pleased would be an understatement, so I wrote a  
> >>>> little
> >>>> review.
>
> >>>> Apologies to those of you who saw this elsewhere.
>
> >>>>http://tinyurl.com/yz98jdo
>
> >>>> John
>
> > --
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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddle Review

[Pete]

John, your not alone. I've bought four Swift saddles as good as new
from people who for various reasons didn't get on with them. I also
had trouble with setting up the first one and ended up moving it all
the way back and raised the nose slightly. From then on it's has been
very comfy and just getting better each year.

On Nov 29, 9:36 pm, John Ferguson  wrote:
> "The pictures of of John's Toei with the
> Brooks show a pretty extreme nose-down position"
>
> That was one of many unsuccessful experiments in positioning that
> saddle. I'm just not comfortable in the crotch of the banana :-)
>
> Again, as I emphasized--saddles are a very individual choice. I think
> if you compare a Brooks and a Berthoud, it's clear which one is better
> constructed.
>
> However, quality is really a secondary consideration. Considering how
> much time I spend on a bike, even if the Brooks had to be replaced
> every 2 years because of shoddy construction, I'd use it if it were
> more comfortable.
>
> Luckily the Berthoud works better for my backside. In fact, I was
> impressed enough to write the review (something I'd never ordinarily
> bother doing). Your mileage may vary.
>
> John
>
> On Nov 29, 1:27 pm, RonaTD  wrote:
>
> > Ditto on the suggestion for B17 owners to spend time playing with the
> > tilt if you're having sliding trouble. The right tilt appears to be
> > very much a function of how upright your position is. More upright,
> > more nose up. I don't have a particularly upright position - handlebar
> > tops a bit below saddle on most of my bikes, and I find I need the
> > nose higher than the tail. The pictures of of John's Toei with the
> > Brooks show a pretty extreme nose-down position. In my experience,
> > people are reluctant to bring the nose up as high as it really needs
> > to be. My wife complained about sliding forward on the B67 on her
> > Glorius and I ended up raising the nose to what I thought was a
> > ridiculous amount. "Eureka!" Instant comfort and joy.
>
> > Personally, my biggest problem with B17 saddles is the amount they
> > warp and twist.
>
> > Ted Durant

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[RBW] Re: Tail Light Query

[Pete]

Here in Europe I think most agree that Busch & Müller has the best
quality rear lights:
http://www.bumm.de/index-e.html?docu/175q-e.htm
There are two other makers that shadow B&M's assortment and are quite
good:
http://axabasta.intermix5.nl/cat/front/items.asp?level=2&id=2
http://www.trelock.de/web/de/index.php
I know it's not what your looking for but do consider the type that
mount out of the way to the rack. The large built in reflectors really
does a great job of alerting oncoming traffic and they are often
compatible with dynamos. With a simple diy clamp they also fit to the
seat or bag. Most German webshops has them in store at good prices.

On Nov 29, 1:12 pm, Angus  wrote:
> George,
>
> I have Spanninga's on both my All-Rounder and Atlantis.  The look
> good, have a reflector, but IMHO are not nearly as bright as the more
> recent LED tail lights such as the Plant Bike Superflash or Cateye TL-
> LD1100.
>
> Angus
>
> On Nov 28, 11:54 am, George Strickler  wrote:
>
> > I want to put a battery tail light on my Rambouillet.  I want one that
> > will attach to the rear fender but not look too garish/Electra.  I
> > have stainless Berthouds.  Suggestions?
> > GeorgeS
> > New Orleans

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[RBW] Re: Touring Advice Offered

[Pete]

On Apr 8, 8:08 am, "clevewh...@gmail.com" 
wrote:

> I used my Rambouillet last year for a small tour and found the brakes
> to be insufficient - too flexy. If I use it again I'm going to switch
> to Paul Centerpulls.  Everything else worked fine as the Ram is not
> too lightweight and, in my opinion, able to carry a moderate load.

Touring is my favorite subject!

My wife has been on 4 long tours with her Ram heavily loaded.  She’s
had it since 2002 and is now the only bike she rides for all
circumstances.  And dare I admit to this group, she never puts
anything wider than 27c tires on it.  (Ruffy Tuffy).  Actually with
fenders she has no choice, nothing larger fits, but even if she did,
why mess with something that works?

The only negative issue she has ever reported is that TCO is pretty
severe with the fenders on.  (Hers is a 58c.)  This sometimes can
cause her a problem biking very slowly up a steep dirt road with all
that gear.  If the gravel is soft she’ll get off and walk because of
this.  But she has never experienced a ride or mechanical issue
whatsoever.  Side pull brakes have been fine.  She doesn't ever even
seem to get flats, I know for sure neither of us have flatted on our
last two tours (again I’ll credit the Ruffy Tuffys pumped to 100psi).
I have never had to true a spoke in either of her wheels.  Maybe she’s
just lucky, but the Ram is a great and stable bike, and I don’t think
you should be afraid to trust your on a tour.  (My bikes through the
years have always been problematic - that’s why I finally got a Riv in
2007.)

One other piece of advice I can offer up after 18 self supported
tours.  Stability (and lack of shimmy) for me always equates to
avoiding putting too much weight too high on the rear rack.  Back/
front weight ratios do not seem to be that important, nor does the
height of things on the front rack, or even what I have packed where
in the packs.  But consistently I notice that if I pile a wet tent and
other gear too high on my rear rack the steering get squirrely.  This
has been the case for me on several different bikes, even my new
Riv.

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[RBW] Re: How can I improve the rear-loaded handling of my new Sam Hill?

[Pete]

Instead of front/back weight distribution, the thing I have noticed
that affects handling more than anything is how the rear weight is
distributed from bottom to top.  If I have too much weight (and/or
height) piled on top of the rack itself the handling gets much worse.
This is true for all the bikes I've toured with including my Riv.  Is
that the case with you?  Are you placing heavy items directly on top
of the rack?  35 pounds is not that much if at least 25 of it is in
the panniers.  It's easy to check to see if this is the culprate.  Do
a test ride with your same load but have your rear panniers as full
and heavy as possible and put little or nothing on top of the rack
itself and see if the ride changes.

Pete


On Jun 19, 8:27 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> Thanks for all the advice, suggestions and encouragement. I do find it hard
> to believe that a Riv bike would have inferior handling, based on the other
> 3 I've owned. I will try moving weight for'ard and see what happens.
>
> Saddle: I've got the saddle where I like it, about 3 to 31/2" behind the bb.
> I just moved it forward a tiny bit yesterday, this for sake of postion, not
> weight distribution. I do like a butt-back position, so this may put too
> much weight in the rear.
>
> To answer Bill's question: I noticed the light front end when I first rode
> the bike unladen; this at normal cruising speeds on straight flats; and this
> evaluation judged in comparison to my other two custom Rivs and my
> Motobecane, which have shorter and lower cockpits; somewhat like the feel of
> my Monocog when I ride on the tops; the Monocog also having a much longer
> and higher cockpit than my 2 customs and the Motobecane, but probably
> moderated by the huge and ponderous tires and rims.
>
> But back to Bill's question: the Sam feels light unladen, especially on the
> flats -- sign again of the effect of rear weight bias. When laden as
> yesterday, it felt no different on flat and straight routes at cruising
> speed: the same slight tendency to wander. It was on the fast downhill
> sweeper that I noticed the sketchiness of the handling -- too brief to
> analyze, but IIRC, a hesitation and then a sudden small flop in turning. But
> it was worst at slow speed up a quite steep hill which combined said rear
> load, the efffect of the steep inclination, and my own body position for the
> climbing effort, that is, weight back and upright posture.
>
> All of this indicates moving weight forward might help -- again, starting
> with proper rear pannier setup and some weight in the Ostrich.
>
> Thanks to all for helping me think this through.
>
> Very, very odd how my old Fuji Royale handled like a pig -- front end
> wandering around like an excited dog let out for a walk when I had weight in
> the Nitto Boxy Bag, but sweetly stable and demurely controllable with a
> heavy load in rear panniers. The SH may be just the opposite.
>
> Interesting.
>
> The rack is a (at least to judge by its much lighter and very stiff cousin,
> the Fly) a stiff Tubus Logo, but the bags are not the Ortliebs that I intend
> to use, but a pair of Axiom grocery panniers borrowed temporarily off the
> Motobecane and sitting further back than they need to be. I shall install
> and load the Ortliebs as my next step, then after that add 5+ lb to the
> Ostrich front bag. Perhaps low riders are in order.
>
> On Fri, Jun 18, 2010 at 11:07 PM, Bill Gibson wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Methodically move weight from back to front, if possible try a low rider
> > front, even overloading the front to see what the matter is. Keep light
> > stuff that you need handy in the handlebar bag. I try to keep all loads
> > between the axles and low, so long as it doesn't interfere with pedaling,
> > etc.
>
> > Analysis: How does speed change it? Is it worse at low speed? Does it go
> > away at higher speed, or do high speed corrections go too far, or seem
> > sluggish? Is it - the flop-  more of a low speed lunging left to right when
> > the front bag is heavily loaded? Flop has a technical meaning beyond what
> > the front feels like in some literature... but the easy thing is to change
> > the way the bike is loaded. I'm sure all loads are well secured.
>
> > I usually adapt to a bike's idiosyncrasies after a few rides... we ride the
> > bike, not the other way round, mostly.
>
> > On Fri, Jun 18, 2010 at 3:56 PM, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
>
> >> Disappointment. I've owned 3 Riv customs, designed for fast road riding,
> >> and all, particularly the second two, have been magnificent in fit, feel 
> >> and
> >> handling, even with rear loads. So I was hugely disappointed to take my 

[RBW] Air France

[Pete]

Has anyone considered that the break up of that jet was due to it's
"state of the art" composite materials not being able to stand the
crazy turbulence?   I am going to put it out there that these light
weight new jets that are proven in the lab to be stronger than their
old fashioned metal counterparts may now get a second look.   Or maybe
I'm completely off base.  Just wanted to see if anyone who argues the
steel versus carbon fiber real world strength had encountered a
discussion about this.

Pete

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[RBW] Jack Brown for Ruffy Tuffy

[Pete]

I have two new Jack Browns (blue) that I am not going to use and will
trade anyone for two new Ruffy Tuffys.  One is still in it's wrapper
and the other is out, was mounted (for about 5 minutes) then taken
back off without ever being ridden.
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[RBW] Re: Air France

[Pete]

I didn't realize you were being forced to read every topic whether you
were interested or not.  I'm trying to find out if anyone had heard
anything about this, I am interested in it.  In fact it is something
Grant has specifically brought up in a past RR or catalog, (I can't
remember which).  Has anyone heard a possible link to the composite
material being a cause?

I apologize if this in fact is too far off topic.  If there are no
other replies, so be it.

On Jun 3, 7:32 pm, Gino Zahnd  wrote:
> Can I beg everyone to not respond to this since it is so off topic?  That,
> and I can't take another religious carbon vs. aluminum debate.
>
> Gino
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 3, 2009 at 6:27 PM, Pete  wrote:
>
> > Has anyone considered that the break up of that jet was due to it's
> > "state of the art" composite materials not being able to stand the
> > crazy turbulence?   I am going to put it out there that these light
> > weight new jets that are proven in the lab to be stronger than their
> > old fashioned metal counterparts may now get a second look.   Or maybe
> > I'm completely off base.  Just wanted to see if anyone who argues the
> > steel versus carbon fiber real world strength had encountered a
> > discussion about this.
>
> > Pete- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Re: Air France

[Pete]

I received a couple emails offline about this.  I guess it's true this
is too far off topic, so it's cool if it dies out.  I subscribe to the
digest, I guess I thought of this news group in terms of topic headers
and optional reading, perhaps that's not true for everyone.

Somebody told me they heard this as a theory of the cause of the Air
France break up and Grant popped into my head because I recall him
mentioning aircraft and carbon fiber.  But I have not been able to get
my hands on a news story.  I suspect it may come up more over time.

Anyway, enough on this and happy biking.

Pete


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[RBW] Re: Touring New Zealand - question

[Pete]

Qantus treats a bike like one bag (of the two you are allowed).  No
charge, no hassle.  I've flown with them 5 or 6 times.  If only all
airlines were as good.
My wife and I go on fully loaded tours so we take one crateworks bike
box and one big duffle each (duffle packed with all of our panniers,
tent, sleeping bag, etc).
We are usually quite close to the weight limit, but never over.  It
works great.

Have fun Gino!

On Jun 10, 5:31 pm, Chicken Sandwich  wrote:
> The deal is that both loads and yields are way down for all airlines,
> so they're just trying to get as many butts into the seats as they
> can.
>
> What is QF's bicycle policy like?
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 11:55 PM, Gino Zahnd wrote:
> > Thanks folks. I just booked a 22 day chunk of time for late
> > November/December via Qantas Air.  Round trip from SFO is $549.  I'm not
> > sure what the deal is with flights right now, but I saw roundtrip to Paris,
> > Germany, Ireland, etc. from California for around $450, which seems mighty
> > cheap, relatively speaking.
>
> > Now, time to figure out what to do with that 22 days.
>
> > On Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 8:36 PM, David Estes  wrote:
>
> >> Also get hold of Antoine at: http://ibikenz.blogspot.com/
>
> >> On Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 7:18 PM, Tim McNamara  wrote:
>
> >>> On Jun 9, 2009, at 8:17 PM, Gino Zahnd wrote:
>
> >>> > I'm considering heading to NZ for several weeks, and I'm wondering
> >>> > if it's possible to inn-to-inn or hostel tour.  Ideally, I'd like
> >>> > to get away with simply a handlebar bag, and a saddlebag. If you've
> >>> > done this, let me know how easy/hard it is, and what you'd have
> >>> > done differently.
>
> >>> Check out the New Zealand section ofhttp://www.crazyguyonabike.com
>
> >> --
> >> Cheers,
> >> David
> >> Redlands, CA- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Touring New Zealand - question

[Pete]

The answer to your first question is yes, it is very possible.

My wife and I have tourned NZ four times, twice on each Island.  We've
always been fully loaded, as it is an ideal country for camping (You
can camp wild, camp in DOC campgrounds, or at KOA-type "motercamps" or
"holiday parks" that are everywhere and usually evenly spaced for
moderate length bike rides).   But there are also numerous backpackers
and hostels and over the years the number of motels have increased
dramatically too.  They are clean and nicely equiped and you'll always
get a kitchenette and refrigerator with milk for your tea.  Most are
relatively inexpensive (at least by U.S. standards).

You will be going before peak season and school holidays (at least I
think so) so my guess is you won't have any trouble finding places to
stay even without advanced booking.  I mention the motorcamps and
holiday parks because the majority of these also have simple small
cabins where you can stay even if you don't have camping gear.  They
are inexpensive because they are usually small and you can use the
toliet, shower and kitchen blocks that are for the campers.  Every
motorcamp and holiday park has full kitchens with refrigerators,
stoves, microwaves, toasters and hot water kettles (usually there is
always boiling water available for tea, but pushing a button or
pulling a lever).  They also have rec rooms with TVs and on our last
trip most also had Internet.

Are you going to the North Island or the South?  It has been 20 years
since I've been to the North Island, and I have heard traffic has
become much worse, but I can still probably offer advice on routes if
you want to contact me offline.

Pete



On Jun 9, 10:55 pm, Gino Zahnd  wrote:
> Thanks folks. I just booked a 22 day chunk of time for late
> November/December via Qantas Air.  Round trip from SFO is $549.  I'm not
> sure what the deal is with flights right now, but I saw roundtrip to Paris,
> Germany, Ireland, etc. from California for around $450, which seems mighty
> cheap, relatively speaking.
>
> Now, time to figure out what to do with that 22 days.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 8:36 PM, David Estes  wrote:
> > Also get hold of Antoine at:  http://ibikenz.blogspot.com/
>
> > On Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 7:18 PM, Tim McNamara  wrote:
>
> >> On Jun 9, 2009, at 8:17 PM, Gino Zahnd wrote:
>
> >> > I'm considering heading to NZ for several weeks, and I'm wondering
> >> > if it's possible to inn-to-inn or hostel tour.  Ideally, I'd like
> >> > to get away with simply a handlebar bag, and a saddlebag. If you've
> >> > done this, let me know how easy/hard it is, and what you'd have
> >> > done differently.
>
> >> Check out the New Zealand section ofhttp://www.crazyguyonabike.com
>
> > --
> > Cheers,
> > David
> > Redlands, CA- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Crank arm length on Bleriot

[Pete]

My answer to part of your question is that 5mm is a very small
distance.  I tried a 165 crank a while back partly to achieve the same
purpose you mention and it didn't make any real difference.  However I
was surprised how much difference it made in the feeling of my pedal
stroke.  I didn't care for it so now that crank is just sitting in my
basement.  You (or anyone interested) can have it for cheap (minus the
chain rings).  It's a Sugino purchased from Rivendell.

Pete



On Jul 7, 10:37 pm, "colin p. cummings" 
wrote:
> Bleriot Riders,
>
> I'm riding a 59 with sneaker pedals and am growing irritated with
> pedal strike.  This happened just today on a mild turn.  Sure my
> riding ability's not fantastic, but I'm wondering if I should switch
> to a 165 crank from my 170.  Will that 5mm make much difference?  Will
> narrower pedals help much?  Experiences please...
>
> Cheers,
>
> Colin Cummings
> Amarillo, TX

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[RBW] Re: Taking My Atlantis on Tour

[Pete]

Hey David, regard myself as a bit of an expert having converted a
dussin road and mtb's for expedition touring. Off the shelf p-clamps
are rarely strong or tight enough to take the pounding. Hose clamps or
diy p-clamps made from strips of 1.5 - 2 mm stainless steel are the
way to go. My favorite is the wider, non-perforated and very durable
stainless hose clams from Sweden ;). Wrap a strip of steel sheet metal
around the clamp and bolt the rack to it with the nut on the outside.
Then mount the clamp around a piece of durable leather to save the
paint. Align the head to the rear side of the fork legs so that it
doesn't interfere with the spokes. Just make sure to get a decent
drill bit as stainless and other sheet metal are very hard to drill
in. I'm just finishing of my "riv-alike" 80's road bike and just
fitted a Tubus Tara this way. Just have to ad some more coats of
shellac then it's of to Poland and eastern Europe for a four week
tour. Tailwinds!

On 15 Juli, 04:56, David Shadmon  wrote:
> Guys,
> Sorry for the late reply, right after I posted to the list (by mistake, since 
> I meant to contact the OP only) - my PC went into a coma.  Coincidence?
> It took me some time to recover and re-load all the software.
> The issue I had was with my setup, not the rack itself.  The Tubus Nova SS 
> shared the front fork with a Nitto Campee front rack.  The Campee got to use 
> the eyelets, so the the Tubus was reduced to using p-clamps.  I found out 
> that those do not hold well, since the fork tapers down, it gets narrower, so 
> once the p-clams start to move down, they will continue to do so.  I had 
> about 12 lbs in each front pannier, which is reasonable.
> So I had to resort to some improvisation, using zip ties to keep the rack 
> arms from sliding down.  This setup held very well, and I even got some 
> compliments from some Harley dudes who examined this motor-less bike very 
> carefully...
> Here's a link to some pictures of my 
> setup: http://www.flickr.com/photos/40439...@n03/
>  
> Enjoying reading the list and already planning for 2010,
>  
> David
>
> --- On Sun, 7/5/09, Nicholas Grieco  wrote:
>
> From: Nicholas Grieco 
> Subject: [RBW] Re: Taking My Atlantis on Tour
> To: "RBW Owners Bunch" 
> Date: Sunday, July 5, 2009, 11:11 AM
>
> What issues did you have with the Nova?
>
> On Jul 4, 12:03 pm, David Shadmon  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Robert,
> > Good luck and have fun!
> > Question: what is the front rack on your bike?  I had issues with mine 
> > (Tubus Nova SS) on my 2008 1,300 miles tour of Quebec, and, planning ahead 
> > for 2010, your setup looks like just what I need...
> > Thanks,
> > David
>
> > --- On Sat, 7/4/09, Robert Kirkpatrick  wrote:
>
> > From: Robert Kirkpatrick 
> > Subject: [RBW] Taking My Atlantis on Tour
> > To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> > Date: Saturday, July 4, 2009, 2:52 PM
>
> > Hey all,
>
> > So once again I'm setting off on tour my my trusty Atlantis. Running about 
> > the same setup some of you might remember from my 2007 tour, but with of 
> > course some modifications based on lessons learned and a bit extra stuff as 
> > its a bit longer tour.  Anyway I'll be blogging when I can from the road 
> > here:
>
> > 
>
> > and uploading pics from my iPhone here:
>
> > 
>
> > Also of course when I can.  Anyway I'm hitting the road in just a couple of 
> > minutes, thanks for looking!
>
> > -Robert- Dölj citerad text -
>
> - Visa citerad text -

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[RBW] Re: kickstand on Bleriot in the spot behind teh seat tube?

[Pete]

The Bleriot chainstays are probably a bit thicker than most tube sets.
But I must tell you I had a very disappointing experience of the ESGE-
Pletscher double stand. Mounted a new one to my converted MTB-tourer
made from Tange Prestige, not the ul-light version, for a six month
tour from Singapore to Hong Kong. To avoid problems I used both a
nylock nut and soft Loctite but after only a few days the stand came
loose. I mistook this as the nut loosening and started to tight it
down. I still kept coming loose but before I realised what had really
happened one leg snapped straight off! I had the bike fully loaded and
pulled it up on the stand while on a gravel road. One leg ended up on
a stone buried in the sand and shattered right of like glass. A month
or so later in Chiang Mai I had the bike serviced and found out that
in fact the weight of the luggage had pressed the stays down and
deformed them witch was the cause for the stand to come loose. There
were even some holes so I swapped the frame for a new as I was unsure
of the availability of good steel frames in Laos and China. Now, I'm
sure this doesnt happen in most cases where the bike is only used for
light touring, centuries and so on. But it is worth to remember and
maybe considering adding a larger diy support plate between the clamp
and frame.

On 16 Aug, 00:44, eflayer  wrote:
> wow, everything you ever wanted to know.  thanks.  had a double one on
> my easy racer tour easy.  have a rear triangle one on my kogswell.
> that stand is ugly, but works like a charm.  think the bleriot deseves
> to join the kickstand club.  think i'll try the make a gasket trick to
> protect that fine bluish paint job.
>
> On Aug 15, 2:39 pm, Dave Craig  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I've recently rediscovered kickstands after decades of thinking they
> > were too geeky for my bikes. In fact, I've kind of become sort of a
> > kickstand evangelist! I've got experience now on several bikes with
> > three major types of stands, the two you describe and the pletscher
> > double kickstand. They all work fine, although on a recent tour, I had
> > to reluctantly admit that the rear triangle stand I had installed on
> > my wife's bike worked way better than my Swiss stand. The rear
> > triangle mount works great on uneven ground, on hills and with heavy
> > touring loads. I used a single leg stand mounted on a kickstand plate.
> > I had to be much more attentive to how I parked.
>
> > Here's a couple of quick tips for doing a good job on your chainstay
> > mounted stand:
>
> > 1) Wrap your chainstays to prevent scratching before installing the
> > kickstand. Actually, only the areas where the kickstand mounting
> > plates contact the frame need to be protected. I do this by cutting
> > some "make a gasket" to fit the mounting plates - you'll need to punch
> > a hole for the bolt (gasket material is sold in the plumbing section
> > at True Value - it is more durable than other materials).
>
> > 2) Kickstands often come loose over time. To prevent this, buy a
> > stainless steel bolt that is long enough to go through both plates
> > with room to attach a nylock nut. Or, with the supplied bolt, use
> > Locktite Blue and a lock washer.
>
> > 3) Install the stand. Before you tighten it down fully with nylocks or
> > otherwise, check to see if your bike leans securely onto the stand. If
> > it's too upright, you'll need to trim the kickstand. It is tempting to
> > do this while the stand is on the bike and with an electric cutting
> > tool, it works. If you are using a hacksaw, take the stand off to cut
> > it. You'll do better work and you won't risk damaging your paint. Take
> > the time to file down the rough cut edges on the stand. This will make
> > the rubber foot last much longer. Use the rubber foot as it makes the
> > stand friendlier to floors and it helps keep the stand from sinking
> > into soft ground.
>
> > 4) Tighten the stand onto the stays. You want to do this carefully and
> > incrementally. Tighten and check for play in the plate. If it wiggles
> > when you check by hand, tighten it a little more, test, and repeat. Be
> > sure you are checking the plate and not the kickstand itself. The
> > kickstand has play in it. Watch the mounting plate to see if it moves
> > on the chainstays. Recheck your kickstand from time to time.
>
> > 5) Kickstanded bikes often fall because the bike rolls forward or
> > backward. For really secure kickstand parking, install a simple
> > parking brake. I use a loop of narrow bungee cord around the bars tied
> > tight enough to keep the brakes applied. The loop stays on my bars.
> > When I park, I apply the brakes and I stretch the bungee onto the
> > brake lever.  The front wheel is usually the culprit, so I ordinarily
> > use that brake as my parking brake.
>
> > That's it!!
>
> > On Aug 15, 7:12 am, eflayer  wrote:
>
> > > Will a Pletscher or Greenfield kickstand clamp on the chainstays right
> > > behind the seat tube?  I know you can get those cl

[RBW] Re: kickstand on Bleriot in the spot behind teh seat tube?

[Pete]

That is probably the sensible thing to do. Riv and other US
manufacturers have have learned from the Europeans and started to fit
such plate on some models so there seem to be a need for it.
Besides, you get to pick your favorite colour! :P

After my experience with the ESGE-Pletscher I tried to get hold of the
Hebie 605 bi-pod stand. It's supposed to be more durable. But the
importer in my part of the woods wasn't up for it. But I think they
are worth a look:
http://www.hebie.de/Home.1.0.html?&L=1

Clever Cycles spec them so they seem to be available in the US:
http://clevercycles.com/store/?c=web2.173

They also make a durable one leg stand that mount to the rear stays
but it's perhaps not as nice on the eye.
;)


On 17 Aug, 07:46, David Estes  wrote:
> Yikes!
>
> In the near future I want to send my All Rounder to Mark N. and have a plate
> put on.  Pretty easy to get that done, it's then having it re-painted that
> kills ya'!
>
> DE
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 1:19 PM, Pete  wrote:
>
> > The Bleriot chainstays are probably a bit thicker than most tube sets.
> > But I must tell you I had a very disappointing experience of the ESGE-
> > Pletscher double stand. Mounted a new one to my converted MTB-tourer
> > made from Tange Prestige, not the ul-light version, for a six month
> > tour from Singapore to Hong Kong. To avoid problems I used both a
> > nylock nut and soft Loctite but after only a few days the stand came
> > loose. I mistook this as the nut loosening and started to tight it
> > down. I still kept coming loose but before I realised what had really
> > happened one leg snapped straight off! I had the bike fully loaded and
> > pulled it up on the stand while on a gravel road. One leg ended up on
> > a stone buried in the sand and shattered right of like glass. A month
> > or so later in Chiang Mai I had the bike serviced and found out that
> > in fact the weight of the luggage had pressed the stays down and
> > deformed them witch was the cause for the stand to come loose. There
> > were even some holes so I swapped the frame for a new as I was unsure
> > of the availability of good steel frames in Laos and China. Now, I'm
> > sure this doesnt happen in most cases where the bike is only used for
> > light touring, centuries and so on. But it is worth to remember and
> > maybe considering adding a larger diy support plate between the clamp
> > and frame.
>
> > On 16 Aug, 00:44, eflayer  wrote:
> > > wow, everything you ever wanted to know.  thanks.  had a double one on
> > > my easy racer tour easy.  have a rear triangle one on my kogswell.
> > > that stand is ugly, but works like a charm.  think the bleriot deseves
> > > to join the kickstand club.  think i'll try the make a gasket trick to
> > > protect that fine bluish paint job.
>
> > > On Aug 15, 2:39 pm, Dave Craig  wrote:
>
> > > > I've recently rediscovered kickstands after decades of thinking they
> > > > were too geeky for my bikes. In fact, I've kind of become sort of a
> > > > kickstand evangelist! I've got experience now on several bikes with
> > > > three major types of stands, the two you describe and the pletscher
> > > > double kickstand. They all work fine, although on a recent tour, I had
> > > > to reluctantly admit that the rear triangle stand I had installed on
> > > > my wife's bike worked way better than my Swiss stand. The rear
> > > > triangle mount works great on uneven ground, on hills and with heavy
> > > > touring loads. I used a single leg stand mounted on a kickstand plate.
> > > > I had to be much more attentive to how I parked.
>
> > > > Here's a couple of quick tips for doing a good job on your chainstay
> > > > mounted stand:
>
> > > > 1) Wrap your chainstays to prevent scratching before installing the
> > > > kickstand. Actually, only the areas where the kickstand mounting
> > > > plates contact the frame need to be protected. I do this by cutting
> > > > some "make a gasket" to fit the mounting plates - you'll need to punch
> > > > a hole for the bolt (gasket material is sold in the plumbing section
> > > > at True Value - it is more durable than other materials).
>
> > > > 2) Kickstands often come loose over time. To prevent this, buy a
> > > > stainless steel bolt that is long enough to go through both plates
> > > > with room to attach a nylock nut. Or, with the supplied bolt, use
> > > > Locktite Blue and a lock washer.
&

[RBW] Re: kickstand on Bleriot in the spot behind teh seat tube?

[Pete]

Dave, The Herbie is probably a bit heavy for touring and one reason I
didn't order it unseen from the interweb. My reason for waning a stand
in the first place is that I do allot of solo touring. It is therefor
hard to keep an eye on the bike if I park it against a wall and such.
For city cycling and c. 20kg load I think the Pletscher center and
rear fork mounted stands work great.

Dough, The Click Stand seem like a nice kit. I often use a stick and a
clips strap in the same way but like you I found it a bit fiddly.

On 22 Aug, 19:55, doug peterson  wrote:
> Been using the Clickstand for a while now and it is a clever
> solution.  However, after just finishing a loaded tour, I'm going to
> try a conventional BB mounted stand for my next trip.  The Clickstand
> absolutely needs the brake on for stability (they tell you this on
> their website), and I found with the bike loaded setting the brake and
> stand was a bit of a chore.  Especially when I wanted to grab a quick
> pic or other casual off bike activity.
>
> dougP
>
> On Aug 18, 8:27 am, "Frederick, Steve" 
> wrote:
>
>
>
> > I used a Clickstand on my last (supported) multiday tour--worked great.  
> > For loaded touring, might want to step up to the heavy duty version...
>
> >http://www.click-stand.com/
>
> > Steve Frederick, East Lansing, MI
>
> > -Original Message-
> > From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
>
> > [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com]on Behalf Of Dave Craig
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 11:05 AM
> > To: RBW Owners Bunch
> > Subject: [RBW] Re: kickstand on Bleriot in the spot behind teh seat
> > tube?
>
> > Pete
>
> > Thank you for the link to Hebie - wow!
>
> > I have a kickstand mounting plate on my Bombadil, but I also had
> > little success with the Pletscher stand, even before starting my tour.
> > I know others have had spoken highly of the two-legged Pletscher, but
> > the bike simply wasn't stable in wind or on uneven ground and I
> > abandoned it for a single leg stand mounted on the plate. This was
> > better. However, I was never very confident in the stand, although my
> > bike never fell over even with a full touring load. Around town, the
> > single leg stand works great and I plan on putting one on my new
> > Quickbeam.
>
> > As I said in my earlier post, the rear triangle stand I mounted on my
> > wife's bike was superior in every way. She could park on almost any
> > surface, angle, etc. and her bike was rock solid. The addition of a
> > parking brake made it even more stable. I was so jealous. If I can't
> > lay my hands on a Hebie center stand to try out, my next tour will be
> > with a rear triangle stand.
>
> > Dave
>
> > On Aug 17, 3:34 am, Pete  wrote:
> > > That is probably the sensible thing to do. Riv and other US
> > > manufacturers have have learned from the Europeans and started to fit
> > > such plate on some models so there seem to be a need for it.
> > > Besides, you get to pick your favorite colour! :P
>
> > > After my experience with the ESGE-Pletscher I tried to get hold of the
> > > Hebie 605 bi-pod stand. It's supposed to be more durable. But the
> > > importer in my part of the woods wasn't up for it. But I think they
> > > are worth a look:http://www.hebie.de/Home.1.0.html?&L=1
>
> > > Clever Cycles spec them so they seem to be available in the 
> > > US:http://clevercycles.com/store/?c=web2.173
>
> > > They also make a durable one leg stand that mount to the rear stays
> > > but it's perhaps not as nice on the eye.
> > > ;)
>
> > > On 17 Aug, 07:46, David Estes  wrote:
>
> > > > Yikes!
>
> > > > In the near future I want to send my All Rounder to Mark N. and have a 
> > > > plate
> > > > put on.  Pretty easy to get that done, it's then having it re-painted 
> > > > that
> > > > kills ya'!
>
> > > > DE
>
> > > > On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 1:19 PM, Pete  wrote:
>
> > > > > The Bleriot chainstays are probably a bit thicker than most tube sets.
> > > > > But I must tell you I had a very disappointing experience of the ESGE-
> > > > > Pletscher double stand. Mounted a new one to my converted MTB-tourer
> > > > > made from Tange Prestige, not the ul-light version, for a six month
> > > > > tour from Singapore to Hong Kong. To avoid problems I used both a
> > > > > nylock nut and soft Loctite but after only a few days the stand came
>

[RBW] Re: S24O video

[Pete]

I just got back from a three week round trip of eastern(central!)
Europe and passed the place. Lies along the Elbe just south of
Dresden/ North of Prague and are very frequented with tourists bussed
in. I only took some snapshots of the sandstone formations before
heading north.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saxon_Switzerland_National_Park
But really worth a visit in the off season!

On 26 Aug, 14:37, Nick  wrote:
> thanks for the lnk! That was awesome and inspirational!
>
> On Aug 25, 11:39 pm, Mike  wrote:
>
>
>
> > This isn't me or anything, I came across it. Really really cool and I
> > think folks here will appreciate it. The bike is a Salsa Fargo which I
> > would say is similar in spirit to a Bombadil just a little more
> > contemporary.
>
> >http://vimeo.com/6185689- Dölj citerad text -
>
> - Visa citerad text -
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[RBW] Re: kickstand on Bleriot in the spot behind teh seat tube?

[Pete]

...sort of related to the subject:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cv0l2tQRIks&feature=related

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[RBW] Re: stickstand (the all-natural clickstand)

[Pete]

Now ride down to the patent office, then set up your own interwebshop
with 10 different versions in unubtanium.
;)

On 3 Sep, 13:52, Nick  wrote:
> the lines on this atlantis - fenders, rack heights, etc. are
> fantastic! next time take a picture w/o bottles or pump pleaseI'd
> like to see it nekkid!
>
> On Sep 3, 12:15 am, erik jensen  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Behold;http://tinyurl.com/stickstand
>
> > I wanted to prop up my bicycle on a grassy knoll and all that was around was
> > the stick pictured. Though too thin to support a downturned pedal, it was
> > just right when propped on its end. I doubt think I'm the first to this, but
> > it worked surprisingly well and I had never seen it before.
>
> > I hope that's not *too* goofy,
>
> > erik jensen
>
> > --
> > berkeley, ca
> > bikenoir.blogspot.com- Dölj citerad text -
>
> - Visa citerad text -
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[RBW] Nice Lugged Stems

[Pete]

What's up with Modolo? I've never been too impressed with their
strange collection of parts. But then I stumbled on this nice looking
lugged and chrome plated thread less stem in their catalog on page 12:
http://www.modolo.com/Cat-Modolo-2009.pdf
The white version wouldn't look out of place on the new Rivendell
Roadeo.
Problem is  there doesn't seem to be any info or shop that stock it.
Anyone have more info?

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[RBW] Re: Multi-Speed Quickbeam

[Pete]

That J-Tek bar end shifter look really sweet:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/singularcycles/3334053384/in/set-72157608998598025/

Then there's the new STI-style Versa VRS-8 Road shifter for Shimano
Nexus and Alfine 8-speed gear hubs:
http://austinontwowheels.org/2009/07/30/review-versa-8-speed-road-shifter-for-shimano-internal-hub/
http://www.sussex.com.tw/versa.html
http://store.somafab.com/ve8alsh.html

On 3 Sep, 00:22, "Allingham II, Thomas J"
 wrote:
> It could be cold set, presumably.
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
> [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Andy.M
> Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 3:07 PM
> To: RBW Owners Bunch
> Subject: [RBW] Re: Multi-Speed Quickbeam
>
> If memory serves me, the QB rear spacing is 120mm, which I believe eliminates 
> most internal gear hubs.  I think sram makes a 5 speed, but the 8 speeds are 
> too wide.
>
> On Sep 2, 11:18 am, Eric Norris  wrote:
> > Cool!  I'm looking at an 8-speed Sturmey Archer hub, so this would be
> >   perfect.
>
> > --Eric
> > campyonly...@me.comwww.campyonly.comwww.wheelsnorth.org
>
> > On Sep 2, 2009, at 10:02 AM, JoelMatthews wrote:
>
> > > Eric:
>
> > > I do not have a Quickbeam.  But on a bike I am building with an
> > > Alfine hub, I am going to try this little gadget at first:
>
> > >http://jtekengineering.com/jtek_bar-end_shifter.htm
>
> > > Visually it is less obtrusive than some of the other shifter mount
> > > options.  I cannot comment on how well it works as I have not set
> > > the bike up yet.
>
> > > On Sep 2, 11:46 am, Eric Norris  wrote:
> > >> I know that someone (perhaps more than one) on this list has put a
> > >> Sturmey Archer or similar hub on their QB.  I'm looking for photos
> > >>   and tips on how to do it (e.g. how to mount the shifter on drop
> > >> bars and the routing/attachment of the shift cable).
>
> > >> Thanks!
>
> > >> --Eric
> > >> campyonly...@me.comwww.campyonly.comwww.wheelsnorth.org
>
> > --Eric
> > campyonly...@me.comwww.campyonly.comwww.wheelsnorth.org-hide quoted
> > text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
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[RBW] Re: Nice Lugged Stems

[Pete]

Just went through some pics from Eurobike-09 I spotted a very similar
stem on the Viva fixies:
http://www.vivabikes.com/
http://www.bbf-direkt.de/fahrrad/viva/viva-bikes-2009.html
Probably Tawian made and if so should be good value. So I checked with
Maxway (Bleriot, Surly, Soma etc?) and there's a black 853 frame in
the right hand corner that seem to have a very similar stem too...
http://ecatalog.manufacturers.com.tw/ecatalog.asp?eId=E5712004&page=2&referer=
http://www.maxway.com.tw/

On 3 Sep, 18:19, Dustin Sharp  wrote:
> Pretty reasonable weight on that stem too.
>
>
>
> > From: Pete 
> > Reply-To: 
> > Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 08:47:23 -0700 (PDT)
> > To: RBW Owners Bunch 
> > Subject: [RBW] Nice Lugged Stems
>
> > What's up with Modolo? I've never been too impressed with their
> > strange collection of parts. But then I stumbled on this nice looking
> > lugged and chrome plated thread less stem in their catalog on page 12:
> >http://www.modolo.com/Cat-Modolo-2009.pdf
> > The white version wouldn't look out of place on the new Rivendell
> > Roadeo.
> > Problem is  there doesn't seem to be any info or shop that stock it.
> > Anyone have more info?- Dölj citerad text -
>
> - Visa citerad text -
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[RBW] Re: Nice Lugged Stems

[Pete]

Nice and very similar in looks. Cris at VO had some pics on the blog
of a identical stems on top of a brochure with forks while back. My
bet is that it's made by Maxway and then rebadged for various
companies.
http://74.125.77.132/search?q=cache:DOJ6-v3ziBAJ:velo-orange.blogspot.com/2009/03/stems-galore.html+%22lugged+threadless+stem%22&cd=6&hl=sv&ct=clnk&gl=se
Hopefully in their shop soon. :P

On 3 Sep, 19:44, rperks  wrote:
> A similar stem is also on the Tange web 
> pagehttp://www.tange-design.com/tange_2007/stem.htm
>
> and I think there were kits for a similar non-round tube being sold
> for a bit as well.  I have never sen one in person though
>
> Rob
>
> On Sep 3, 8:47 am, Pete  wrote:
>
>
>
> > What's up with Modolo? I've never been too impressed with their
> > strange collection of parts. But then I stumbled on this nice looking
> > lugged and chrome plated thread less stem in their catalog on page 
> > 12:http://www.modolo.com/Cat-Modolo-2009.pdf
> > The white version wouldn't look out of place on the new Rivendell
> > Roadeo.
> > Problem is  there doesn't seem to be any info or shop that stock it.
> > Anyone have more info?- Dölj citerad text -
>
> - Visa citerad text -
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[RBW] Re: IGH Atlantis type bikes was: Tried and LOVED - Silver Bar End Shifters

[Pete]

This one been on sale for a while:
http://singularcycles.blogspot.com/2009/08/for-sale-large-singular-peregrine.html
All dressed up and nowhere to go...

On 6 Sep, 17:57, MichaelH  wrote:
> Nice looking frames, and pretty attractive prices, even with
> shipping.  I wasn't familiar with them.  Does anyone have personal
> experience with the company & frames?
>
> Michael
>
> On Sep 6, 10:21 am, David Estes  wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Sat, Sep 5, 2009 at 4:34 PM, Seth Vidal  wrote:
>
> > > I've got no problem with friction shifting but yesterday I realized
> > > why it would never work for my partner. Since I've been off the bike
> > > for a while now she decided she wanted to try riding my atlantis and I
> > > decided I wanted to see if she liked it. So she took it out for a
> > > little spin and shifted. Now, my partner is completely deaf and while
> > > I'm standing there watching her get comfortable I'm hearing 'clank
> > > clank clank clank' as the derailler is not quite lined up. Made me say
> > > 'hmmm'. Here's a situation where friction just isn't going to work so
> > > well.
>
> > > There's a lot of friction shifting which requires some amount of
> > > hearing. And as much as someone tells me "its about feeling it" I
> > > think they are full of crap that it isn't about hearing it, too.
>
> > > -sv
>
> > > --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
>
> > Seth, If she's at all considering an Atlantis, but desiring an IGH, the
> > perfect all-rounder bike that is made for an IGH is the Singular
> > Peregrine(two-thirds down the
> > page).   Seems like a great bike.  There are several of
> > them rough-stuffing around the British Isles with Alfine hubs.  Kind of best
> > of both worlds with that bike!
>
> > --
> > Cheers,
> > David
> > Redlands, CA
>
> > "Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
> > wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym."  ~Bill Nye,
> > scientist guy- Dölj citerad text -
>
> - Visa citerad text -
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[RBW] Bridgestone Atlantis

[Pete]

This Japanese site has lots of scans of old catalogs, trip reports and
other bob-ish content.
Thought if could be of interest to you all as Grant previously stated
in RR that the name Atlantis was borrowed from Bridgestone.
Here is the 1982 catalog:
http://bit.ly/2rWLfN
Lots more here (translated):
http://bit.ly/2v6RP
http://bit.ly/1FAHUE
http://bit.ly/4cQfj0
If the above links don't work:
http://cyclotourist.web.fc2.com/

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[RBW] Bridgestone Atlantis

[Pete]

This Japanese site has lots of scans of old catalogs, trip reports and
other bob-ish content.
Thought if could be of interest to you all as Grant previously stated
in RR that the name Atlantis was borrowed from Bridgestone.
Here is the 1982 catalog:
http://cyclotourist.web.fc2.com/Image/special/special39/bs82_03l.jpg
Lots more here (translated):
http://bit.ly/2v6RP
http://bit.ly/1FAHUE
http://bit.ly/4cQfj0
If the above links don't work:
http://cyclotourist.web.fc2.com/

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[RBW] Re: Bridgestone Atlantis

[Pete]

What a great selection there was in those days. All mass produced, off
the shelf and still with great design, quality and price. There's some
very nice links too:
http://bit.ly/1sqv6r
http://bit.ly/FEdLA
http://bit.ly/15bTZX

On 10 Sep, 01:58, Mike  wrote:
> Lots of great stuff here. I really liked this page:
>
> http://74.125.53.132/translate_c?hl=sv&ie=UTF-8&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http://...
>
> On Sep 9, 1:14 pm, Pete  wrote:
>
>
>
> > This Japanese site has lots of scans of old catalogs, trip reports and
> > other bob-ish content.
> > Thought if could be of interest to you all as Grant previously stated
> > in RR that the name Atlantis was borrowed from Bridgestone.
> > Here is the 1982 
> > catalog:http://cyclotourist.web.fc2.com/Image/special/special39/bs82_03l.jpg
> > Lots more here 
> > (translated):http://bit.ly/2v6RPhttp://bit.ly/1FAHUEhttp://bit.ly/4cQfj0
> > If the above links don't work:http://cyclotourist.web.fc2.com/- Dölj 
> > citerad text -
>
> - Visa citerad text -
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Re: [RBW] Re: The Places Our Bikes Take Us

[Wrongway Pete]

Lovely images, Andy. Can you tell us what the crazy-tall handlebar bag is?
Is that a custom-height Waxwing, or something else?  Whatever it is, do you
happen to know the dimensions?

Thanks very much!

Kind regards,


Peter Jourdain
Whitewater, Wisconsin

On Wed, Oct 25, 2023 at 9:42 AM ascpgh  wrote:

> Whoops, got away without signatuure...
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
>
> On Wednesday, October 25, 2023 at 10:41:52 AM UTC-4 RBW Owners Bunch wrote:
>
>> ter a long couple days of work I saw the weather forecast and checked my
>> favorite far point Air B&B, found it available and collected enough
>> clothing to cover a 40° swing from frost to sunny 70°s and set out for a
>> ride down the GAP in near peak foliage. A very nice 85 mile ride in the
>> woods, rarely other people out and a few of the widely spaced services of
>> which I took advantage.
>> [image: 4BD9352D-87DE-4FC3-93F5-B4CF15992323_1_105_c.jpeg][image:
>> 9707191F-4278-4271-A874-F9C04EA5D5E1_1_105_c.jpeg][image:
>> F4A9FF43-CA9A-4451-BE6C-4581BF07622B_1_105_c.jpeg][image:
>> B0501357-E0E5-4BE6-A470-2548C2E3C866_1_201_a.jpg]
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, October 25, 2023 at 8:50:55 AM UTC-4 RBW Owners Bunch wrote:
>>
>>> One of my (and probably many of you) main motivations for riding my
>>> bikes is to get to a special place. This may be a place of natural beauty,
>>> a quiet place to get away from the hustle of daily life or a place that has
>>> special meaning to us. Post a picture of a special place your bike has
>>> taken you, and why this place is special.
>>>
>>> This is my Appaloosa at the mouth of the Huron River in the Upper
>>> Peninsula of Michigan. The Huron Islands are visible in Lake Superior. This
>>> place is remote feeling and beautiful, and I was there recently  many years
>>> after my first visit.
>>> Randy in WI[image: Appaloosa Huron River BeachBWWEB.jpg]
>>>
>> --
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> 
> .
>


-- 
www.bicyclingbackwards.com


*"For here is entertainment in excelsis, the sight, the sound and the scent
of thingsWhy cycling for joy is not the most popular passtime on earth
is still a mystery to me." ---Frank J. Urry, "SALUTE TO CYCLING"*

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[RBW] Anyone in Providence, RI?

[Pete Oyler]

Wondering if anyone here is based in Providence? 

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[RBW] Fender Install, Clem 52, SKS B65

[Pete Oyler]

Hey out there. Ordered some B65 fenders for my 52 Clem and am wondering if 
they required trimming? 

TIA

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[RBW] Re: Looking for: Tektro R559 Spring

[Pete P]

Thomas,
My Atlantis 2006 has Tektro Oryx cantilevers. I have broken 2 springs
already. I found in McMaster some torsion springs 9271k681 for right hand
and 9271k615 for left. They now cost about a dollar apiece. they come 6 in 
a bag.
They were put in service 8 years ago. No problems. Your springs might be
different.
Pete

On Wednesday, August 30, 2023 at 8:10:50 PM UTC-5 Thomas Blak wrote:

> Shot in the dark, does anyone know if you can purchase a spring for the 
> Tektro R559?  I have done my Google searches and came up empty handed. I 
> will just purchase a new brake if I have to but I prefer to find the 
> spring. My Sam Hillborne will thank you. [image: IMG_6232.jpg]
>

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[RBW] Re: New-to-me Goodrich Sport Tourer

[Pete P]

wats
Love that Goodrich. Looks like some high gears too! 
I recognize that view from the Mendota bridge looking
east with Saint Paul in the distance and that deafening
roar of auto/truck traffic just in back of you.
Pete

On Tuesday, September 5, 2023 at 4:34:54 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:

> That is gorgeous
> 😍
>
> On Tuesday, September 5, 2023 at 12:19:52 PM UTC-5 wats...@umn.edu wrote:
>
>> Looks great! My Goodrich is a really great ride and I had to really work 
>> not to inquire about yours when it was up for sale! Glad you got it, sounds 
>> like it's in store for some great riding in Vermont.
>>
>> [image: IMG_2993.jpeg]
>>
>> On Sunday, September 3, 2023 at 12:41:39 PM UTC-5 Tom Goodmann wrote:
>>
>>> Back in February or so I enjoyed an exchange here about a number of 
>>> bikes for sale via FB Marketplace; all had been owned by Tom Tredway, 
>>> former president of Augustana College. Some of you were fortunate enough to 
>>> make buys, and generous in sharing information on what you saw. Well, I 
>>> lucked into a Goodrich sport tourer built for Dr. Tredway and--with the 
>>> inestimable help of Frank Neff on this list--changed things up from Albas 
>>> to drops, including Gevenalle shifters, which I am enjoying. 38 max tire, 
>>> btw; I picked up the front Berthoud bag from Peter White with a Klickfix 
>>> attachment, which the saddle bag that came with the bike has too. It's a 
>>> great ride, and will be heading with me to Vermont soon for some fall 
>>> gravel and pavement (and I am bringing the fenders).
>>>
>>> [image: Goodrich w: Albatross.jpeg][image: Goodrich w:drops.jpeg]
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Silver2 shifters -- over the bar, or under?

[Pete B]

Hi all, I'd be curious to see how others have mounted their Silver2 
shifters on Silver mounts.

I have them on a old Trek Singletrack. I mounted them on the top. I've 
found that the mounts put the shifters quite low -- just above the 
bar/grip. A bit lower than I'd like, compared to others I've used.

I think they might be more comfortable mounted under the bar, and I've read 
that's how they do it in Walnut Creek. I haven't tried this yet. But 
eyeballing it, I think my brake lever mounts might interfere with the 
shifter's movement. I've seen the video on the Riv site, but it doesn't 
show brake levers or grips installed.

Anyone else been down this road?

Pete
Arlington, VA

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[RBW] Re: Silver2 shifters -- over the bar, or under?

[Pete B]

Thanks for the pic. Clever mirror placement.

I'm using a Nitto 809 handlebar. It's a low rise, low sweep flat bar that 
really only has one hand position, so I need to mount the brake levers and 
shifters next to each other. Here's a view of the left grip, with the 
shifter on top of the bar, and bell below. As you can see, there's only a 
few millimeters of clearance between the grip and the shifter. Under the 
bar, the brake lever mount bulges around the mounting bolt. I'm pretty sure 
the bolt bulge will interfere with the shifter's throw if I try to mount it 
below the bar. FWIW, the levers are Shimano Tiagras. The newish Deore 
shifter I have on a different bike has the same bulge.

I like these shifters a lot, but the mounts are a bit low profile for my 
situation. Has anyone successfully used the the Silver2 as thumbshifters 
with a different, higher-profile mount? 

Pete


[image: IMG_2354.jpg]

On Tuesday, February 22, 2022 at 6:44:33 PM UTC-5 Pancake wrote:

> Under works great, here compared to a Sunrace that front shifter. Rainbow 
> in background for fun. 
> Unrelated: hailing today on the way to work!
> [image: IMG_3146.jpg]
>
> On Tuesday, 22 February 2022 at 12:30:05 UTC-8 Pete B wrote:
>
>> Hi all, I'd be curious to see how others have mounted their Silver2 
>> shifters on Silver mounts.
>>
>> I have them on a old Trek Singletrack. I mounted them on the top. I've 
>> found that the mounts put the shifters quite low -- just above the 
>> bar/grip. A bit lower than I'd like, compared to others I've used.
>>
>> I think they might be more comfortable mounted under the bar, and I've 
>> read that's how they do it in Walnut Creek. I haven't tried this yet. But 
>> eyeballing it, I think my brake lever mounts might interfere with the 
>> shifter's movement. I've seen the video on the Riv site, but it doesn't 
>> show brake levers or grips installed.
>>
>> Anyone else been down this road?
>>
>> Pete
>> Arlington, VA
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver2 shifters -- over the bar, or under?

[Pete B]

Thanks Andrew, I'll give your suggestion some thought.

On Wednesday, February 23, 2022 at 4:35:03 PM UTC-5 Andrew Letton wrote:

> Hi Pete,
> One option that might work is to swap the brake levers left for right, so 
> the pinch bolt is on the top, then the shifter could go below.
> Not seeing the entire brake lever, I can't see how visually unpleasing 
> that might be...
> cheers,
> Andrew in Sydney
>
> On Thursday, February 24, 2022, 07:34:56 AM GMT+11, Pete B <
> peter...@gmail.com> wrote: 
>
>
> Thanks for the pic. Clever mirror placement.
>
> I'm using a Nitto 809 handlebar. It's a low rise, low sweep flat bar that 
> really only has one hand position, so I need to mount the brake levers and 
> shifters next to each other. Here's a view of the left grip, with the 
> shifter on top of the bar, and bell below. As you can see, there's only a 
> few millimeters of clearance between the grip and the shifter. Under the 
> bar, the brake lever mount bulges around the mounting bolt. I'm pretty sure 
> the bolt bulge will interfere with the shifter's throw if I try to mount it 
> below the bar. FWIW, the levers are Shimano Tiagras. The newish Deore 
> shifter I have on a different bike has the same bulge.
>
> I like these shifters a lot, but the mounts are a bit low profile for my 
> situation. Has anyone successfully used the the Silver2 as thumbshifters 
> with a different, higher-profile mount? 
>
> Pete
>
>
> [image: IMG_2354.jpg]
>
> On Tuesday, February 22, 2022 at 6:44:33 PM UTC-5 Pancake wrote:
>
> Under works great, here compared to a Sunrace that front shifter. Rainbow 
> in background for fun. 
> Unrelated: hailing today on the way to work!
> [image: IMG_3146.jpg]
>
> On Tuesday, 22 February 2022 at 12:30:05 UTC-8 Pete B wrote:
>
> Hi all, I'd be curious to see how others have mounted their Silver2 
> shifters on Silver mounts.
>
> I have them on a old Trek Singletrack. I mounted them on the top. I've 
> found that the mounts put the shifters quite low -- just above the 
> bar/grip. A bit lower than I'd like, compared to others I've used.
>
> I think they might be more comfortable mounted under the bar, and I've 
> read that's how they do it in Walnut Creek. I haven't tried this yet. But 
> eyeballing it, I think my brake lever mounts might interfere with the 
> shifter's movement. I've seen the video on the Riv site, but it doesn't 
> show brake levers or grips installed.
>
> Anyone else been down this road?
>
> Pete
> Arlington, VA
>
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> .
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Re: [RBW] Re: ROADUNO - a new singlespeed!

[Pete B]

This bike sounds a lot like the Rosco Roads, which used SimpleOne forks, 
but tire clearance with fenders is apparently better . My Rosco Road has 
130mm rear spacing and I do 700x35 to be on the safe side, but could 
probably do 700x38. The RU is supposed to do 700x45 with fenders. I 
wouldn't have guessed that'd be easy to do with 120mm frame spacing, but 
the Quickbeam probably gets pretty close to that, right? I assume the frame 
is spaced at 120, and not just the hub.

120mm frame spacing is desirable because it allows a larger chainring 
(>40t) to be installed with good chainline on a 120mm hub which aren't 
really specialty items. I've done several conversions of 120mm wheels on 
126mm and 130mm frames using axle spacers to make up the difference. A 120 
fixed or free rear hub dictates chainring choice. You basically have to run 
what will not hit the chainstay while giving good chainline. Often that 
means something smaller than 42t. A 42x15 is a nice combination for just 
riding around, but if you want a bigger gear, you're out of luck. Better to 
go with a bigger front ring like a 44 or a 46 and then you can swap out 
freewheels and cogs to get the combo you want. If you don't care about 
riding fixed, 130mm hub spacing is easy, because you can just use a regular 
road cassette hub and adjust the chainline on the rear wheel using spacer 
kits like the kind Surly makes. Then you can put a bigger chainring on the 
outside of the spider or use a longer BB to get the ring clear of the 
chainstay.

On Monday, December 14, 2020 at 10:42:21 AM UTC-5 Christopher Cote wrote:

> I expect these are sized like the more recent Rivendells such as the Sam 
> Hillborne, etc. The 54cm would be the right size for me, and I would have 
> ridden a 56 or 58cm Quickbeam, for example.
>
> Chris
>
>
> On Sunday, December 13, 2020 at 8:58:54 PM UTC-5 Berkeleyan wrote:
>
>> Okay, after reading the obscure details on the R1, I stand corrected. 
>> Despite the shocking shortcoming of its very limited PBH range, it has one 
>> great advantage over the QB of yore, and THAT is support for wider tires. I 
>> tried running Bruce Gordon Rock 'n Roads (38mm) on my Orange QB, and they 
>> just only barely fit. Currently I roll on 38mm Ocean Air Soma C-Lines, 
>> which fit just fine without fenders. But if the R1 will go well into the 
>> mid-40's, yes, that is an improvement.
>>
>> - Andrew, Berkeley
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[Pete B]

As Patrick says, roomy shoes and air pockets. The other things help -- 
boots, toe covers, warmers, extra socks. But only if there is space for 
warm air around my fingers and toes to begin with. Wearing wool tights or 
pants also helps keep the blood warm on the way to and fro.

This winter I've been wearing Wiggy's lamilite socks and wool tights down 
to about 30 degrees with just a pair of Five-Tens and that seems to be good 
for 1-3 hour rides. I like hiking boots for short rides 25 degrees or below.

For fingers, I like wearing thin synthetic gloves inside thick fleece 
gloves. When it's really cold in the mid-Atlantic it's usually dry as well 
so I find a shell isn't needed and my hands breathe better without them. If 
there is freezing or cold rain on the ride home from work I have a pair of 
cheap elastic overmitts. They're ok but I find it hard to ride in mittens 
and these leak at the seams in a heavy rain and don't breathe well. But for 
the 5-6 times a year I wear them it's fine. If it were much colder here I'd 
get bar mitts.

Pete
Arlington, VA

On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 11:32:50 AM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Oh oh! When you buy gloves, buy them at least 1 and perhaps 2 sizes too 
> big, to keep air pockets at the ends of the fingers when hands are clasped 
> around bar and control surfaces. This really, really makes a huge 
> difference in finger comfort.
>
> On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 9:16 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> Oh, wool socks and roomy shoes. I ride down to the upper teens, and I've 
>> used all sorts of wool socks, from bulky utility socks from Canadian chain 
>> stores to wool dress socks; presently REI's generic merino socks that are 
>> mid weight but thin enough to fit in my summer bike shoes. Really, though, 
>> I should have a winter pair of shoes a size larger so that I can get 2 
>> pairs of socks, thin liner and the wool socks under the shoe without 
>> pinching -- pinching cuts of blood flow and makes your feet cold. 
>>
>> My strategies depend on temperature and time outside. For real cold -- I 
>> ride down to the upper teens -- and for longer rides, say over an hour, I 
>> have a pair of Lake winter boots that I wear over a pair of those REI 
>> socks; they're fine for 2-3 hours outside, especially as you warm up as you 
>> ride and, even more around here in the high desert, temperatures rise so 
>> fast once the sun comes up. But for real cold, I do recommend a pair of 
>> specifically designed winter shoes.
>>
>> For temps down to the upper 20s, if I'm going to be outside for no more 
>> than an hour, my regular summer shoes are alright, with the REI socks; but 
>> I place between sock and shoe a cut-down bread bag -- ie, heavier plastic 
>> -- as a wind break. My feet will often sweat, so this is useful only if you 
>> will not stop mid ride for any length of time.
>>
>> My problem with cold is more my hands. I've got a pair of nice PI lobster 
>> gloves with 3 compartments for 2 fingers each plus thumb; this is better 
>> than the other design, with 4 fingers, then fore finger, then thumb; but 
>> not as warm as a mitten; but it gives better control of shifters and 
>> brakes. I find tightly woven DeFeet knit gloves find down to the upper 30s, 
>> insert thin silk liners down to about 30, below that use the lobsters with 
>> or without silks, and finally, have a pair of Outdoor Research mitts to go 
>> over thick wool mittens. Not very good for brake levers and shifters, but 
>> then when it gets cold enough for this, I limit my time outdoors.
>>
>> Ears also suffer. Faux Peruvian wool or acrylic caps work well; mine came 
>> from Target. Less dorky is the fleece-lined Highway Patrol-type winter had 
>> from the movie *Fargo* without a badge that has fleece-lined ear covers 
>> on flaps that velcro under your chin. Or, I use a lycra balaclava under a 
>> PI or Walz winter cycling cap. On yesterday's ride to church in the low 20s 
>> I used the PI under the Leatt jacket's hood, since the hood cinches tight 
>> to keep it close to your face (to allow you too see sideways), and the 
>> cap's brim keeps the hood from your eyes when you turn your head. 
>>
>> Note: I suffer from what our Victorian ancestors would have called a 
>> "weak throat:" I easily get sore throats. So I am very careful to wrap my 
>> neck when temps get below 50*F. I use either a wool scarf cut in half 
>> longitudinally by a tailor, or a zip-up neck on my Ibex or other cycling 
>> vests, or a Buff neck gaiter. I find that this really does prevent sore 
>> throats and, in fact, I wrap my neck in a wo

[RBW] Re: I'm ready

[Pete B]

Is there a particular handlebar you'd like to use? If you are looking for 
an upright but sporty ride, you may want to choose a Riv frame that allows 
you to lean forward even with a swept back handlebar. I'm not talking super 
aggressive position, I'm talking touring-bike-with-drop bars lean forward.

For example,  I have a Rosco Bubbe Road with a sloping top tube and tall 
headtube that makes it very easy to get moustache and drop bars close and 
comfortable. It's a lot like a SimpleOne, and uses that fork. However, 
anything more swept back than an Albatross bar would probably require a 
very long stem for me to get sporty and comfortable.

Depending on what bar you want to use and how upright you want to be, a 
more cruiser-ish frame with a longer top tube like the Atlantis or 
Appaloosa could be preferable to a Hillborne or Hilsen. Or, if an 
Albastache or moustache bar is in your future, vice versa. I'd call Riv, 
they'll ask you better questions than me :)

Pete
Arlington, VA
On Wednesday, February 3, 2021 at 10:38:50 AM UTC-5 Sam Perez wrote:

> I'm ready to get a riv bike but haven't ridden one yet. Bikes I've owned 
> and emulated rive bikes with are the following.
>
> MB-1  26"
> MB-0. 26"
> Surly LTH.  26"
> EBISU All purpose 650b
> Salsa ala carte26"
> 84 stump jumper 26"
> 80s univega. 26"
>
> Anyone have experience with same bikes? Do the rivs handle like 80s mt 
> conversations?  after years of riding I'm beginning to get some neck pain 
> from drop bars. So really an upright sporty rando with day loads up diablo. 
> Haven't decided what model yet.
>
> Thanks 
> Sam
>

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[RBW] Re: Let's see your shop and workbench

[Pete B]

Thanks Paul, PATC is great. I just pay dues and rent a rustic cabin once or 
twice a year. 

My favorite things about these shop pics are little details like a toolbox 
sticker, or Eric's license plates, and especially, seeing what list members 
with limited space have cooked up. I wrenched on apartment floors, outdoor 
decks, and then in a overstuffed 8x10 shed with no electricity for many 
years. My current setup is about 8 months old and it's more comfortable and 
convenient, but it's not *cooler*. I'd love to see a Riv-ified version of 
the foam-lined-toolbox-and-repair-stand minimalism of event mechanics.

Pete
Arlington, VA
On Monday, March 15, 2021 at 4:14:25 PM UTC-4 Paul Richardson wrote:

> pete:  i dig your PATC sticker!
>
> paul
> takoma park, md.
> On Monday, March 15, 2021 at 11:19:15 AM UTC-4 Pete B wrote:
>
>> Here's my work space, in a corner of the basement. The newest addition is 
>> a 1977 Snap-On tool chest that I rescued from the curb on trash day and 
>> restored.
>>
>> The blue thing behind the vice is a homebrew truing stand that came with 
>> a used dishing tool I bought on Ebay. It's held in place with a bench vise. 
>> I drilled and tapped it for screws that are used for fine adjustment. Acorn 
>> nuts protect the rim from gouging. It works pretty well for the couple 
>> times a year I use it.
>>
>> The machinist vise is another Ebay find I picked up in 2013 for about 
>> $40. It's a Prentiss Bulldog with 3" jaws, probably close to 100 years old 
>> now. I have it and the Park work stand mounted to an old cutting board. I 
>> had this held to my old bench with bolts and wingnuts, instead of bar 
>> clamps. This arrangement allows me to swivel the vise to the front of the 
>> bench, or temporarily remove it.
>>
>> Riv content:  Silver2 shifters and Nitto HiRiser on the Trek 950.
>>
>> Pete
>> Arlington, VA
>>
>> [image: IMG_8282.jpg]
>> [image: image0(1).jpeg]
>> [image: IMG_5820.jpg]
>> On Monday, March 15, 2021 at 9:50:48 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> Get that vise installed! Most important tool in the shop - how else can 
>>> you hacksaw rack struts? ;-)
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Friday, March 12, 2021 at 7:33:01 PM UTC-5 Kieran J wrote
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> [image: IMG_8782.JPG]
>>>>
>>>> KJ
>>>>
>>>>

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[RBW] Re: Bike shop recs sought

[Pete B]

I second the Bikenetic suggestion. If you've got a couple hours and bike to 
ride, you can take either the Custis/W&OD trail there. As mentioned, there 
is good coffee, lunch options, and a record store nearby.

On Friday, August 13, 2021 at 3:09:23 PM UTC-4 care...@hotmail.com wrote:

> While not a Riv shop, Bikenetic in Falls Church is a great shop.  They 
> work on Rivs, Crusts, etc., so there's usually fun stuff to look at.  Falls 
> Church has the added benefit of being lousy with good coffee--Rare Bird 
> Roasters, Cafe Kindred, North Side Social...The Rapha shop in Georgetown is 
> cool--they have a good coffee bar in the shop.  Man, I must want a cup of 
> coffee.
>
> Enjoy your trip.
>
> On Saturday, August 7, 2021 at 11:46:28 AM UTC-4 Lucky wrote:
>
>> Hey all, 
>> I will be in DC and the Alexandria, VA area for a few days next week. Any 
>> good bike shops/Riv dealers I should visit? Bolster my tee shirt collection?
>
>

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[RBW] Safety on the littered trails

[Pete P]

It’s that time of the year to be careful about riding on trails with leaves 
and STICKS. There have been a couple times in the past when a stick would 
get sucked up my front wheel. I managed to stop in time before it crumpled my 
fender and possibly jam into the fork crown and cause me to crash.

Safety tabs come standard on Riv’s plastic fenders.I have these on my other 
bike. My Atlantis has Gilles Berthoud stainless steel fenders with 5mm 
aluminum fender stays. I thought the PDW safety tabs wouldn’t fit but my 
email question to them was returned and YES the hole would fit 5mm stays 
perfectly.  So I measured two times and cut once on each side of the fender 
stays and this is how they look. 

[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51492545496_0a528aeae3_c.jpg[/img]

[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51438690374_117b3d3012_c.jpg[/img]

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[RBW] WTB: 62cm Joe Appaloosa

[Wrongway Pete]

Tally-ho!

Wanting to buy a 62cm Joe Appaloosa double top-tube frame and fork or 
complete bike. Any color will do. 

I am located in Southeastern Wisconsin. 

Thanks so very much!

Cheerio,


Peter Jourdain
Whitewater, Wisconsin

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[RBW] Re: Any Rivsters here commute more than 10 miles one-way? Cold weather tips?

[Pete Olson]

My tip for the day is be alert to changing road conditions, which can be 
either obvious or subtle in winter.  I had my first road riding fall in 
about 20 years this morning.  I am a semi-retired educator and this is a 
non-working day for me.   I was doing a multiple errand ride to spots 2 
miles or so away on my old Bridgestone MB-2 with a trailer.  It was 31 F 
with fog and the black top and concrete did not feel slippery but making a 
turn I slid out on paint marking the a cross-walk that had an icy glaze, 
apparently from freezing condensation.  The markings were wide paint lines 
perpendicular to the crossing.  I was going less than 10 miles and no 
significant damage to me or the bike but my helmet did contact the road.  I 
have a second set of wheels for this bike that I keep studded tires on, but 
I like to postpone putting these on because they do feel appreciably 
slower.  The studded tires work well for most winter conditions but 
sometimes slush can be a problems; that can float the tires enough that the 
studs won't contact the payment.  I don't attempt to bike the whole way for 
my school that is more than 10 miles away even in warm weather so no on the 
main question.  As for winter gear, I like this Salice visor.  It works 
better than goggles over prescription glasses for avoiding fogging.  Some 
cross country ski stores carry it.  -Pete

http://xcski.gearwest.com/product/salice-antifog-visor/400465/393527/1172345/1872659

On Monday, November 11, 2013 10:24:33 PM UTC-6, Michael wrote:
>
> Just curious. 
>  
> My commute may get longer soon.
> I had been doing partial commutes of 5.6 miles from a park-n-ride, but 
> would like to work up to the full 16 mile one-way commute one day.
> A change in my family's work schedule (3 of us with two cars) may 
> necessitate this sometimes.
>  
> Any Riv-peeps' cold weather tips? Gets down into the 20's here in the 
> winter.
>

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[RBW] Re: Any Rivsters here commute more than 10 miles one-way? Cold weather tips?

[Pete Olson]

A clarification.  This is the model visor I have:  
http://www.nordicskiracer.com/news.asp?NewsID=3489 .  It works well over 
prescription glasses, but I can't find that it is still manufactured and I 
haven't used the newer Salice visor linked in my last post.

On Friday, November 15, 2013 1:15:37 PM UTC-6, Pete Olson wrote:
>
> My tip for the day is be alert to changing road conditions, which can be 
> either obvious or subtle in winter.  I had my first road riding fall in 
> about 20 years this morning.  I am a semi-retired educator and this is a 
> non-working day for me.   I was doing a multiple errand ride to spots 2 
> miles or so away on my old Bridgestone MB-2 with a trailer.  It was 31 F 
> with fog and the black top and concrete did not feel slippery but making a 
> turn I slid out on paint marking the a cross-walk that had an icy glaze, 
> apparently from freezing condensation.  The markings were wide paint lines 
> perpendicular to the crossing.  I was going less than 10 miles and no 
> significant damage to me or the bike but my helmet did contact the road.  I 
> have a second set of wheels for this bike that I keep studded tires on, but 
> I like to postpone putting these on because they do feel appreciably 
> slower.  The studded tires work well for most winter conditions but 
> sometimes slush can be a problems; that can float the tires enough that the 
> studs won't contact the payment.  I don't attempt to bike the whole way for 
> my school that is more than 10 miles away even in warm weather so no on the 
> main question.  As for winter gear, I like this Salice visor.  It works 
> better than goggles over prescription glasses for avoiding fogging.  Some 
> cross country ski stores carry it.  -Pete
>
>
> http://xcski.gearwest.com/product/salice-antifog-visor/400465/393527/1172345/1872659
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Your lockable commuter thread

[Pete P]

My Atala.  Riv’d it up with old parts and even tried out those upright 
albatross handlebars. That is what converted me from uncomfortable road 
bars on my Atlantis (to choco bars- similar) I won’t ever go back to drop 
bars.

I like to use this bike if going downtown Minneapolis or shopping at the 
home despot store. I do use a cable to capture the saddle and back wheel 
and a kryptonite for the frame/front wheel and to the bike rack. If I lost 
it to a thief I’d be very sad but I only ride within a 5 mile max walking 
distance away! This bike has a freewheel with 5 sprockets and only 2 usable 
chainrings up front. The gearing is simplicity- 28/38 up front and 
15,17,19,24,30 in back. So my top gear is 68” I’ve already ground off the 
teeth of the outer to act as a chain guard. It is very comfortable. I 
should replace the stem as it is quite old. It’s a tall one which gets the 
h’bars way up there where I like. 

Pete

32007879831_87f28d4bf0_z.jpg 
<https://live.staticflickr.com/746/32007879831_87f28d4bf0_z.jpg>

32087521246_8462caeba1.jpg 
<https://live.staticflickr.com/272/32087521246_8462caeba1.jpg>


On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 9:37:16 AM UTC-5 foolis...@gmail.com wrote:

> Well said Carl. Well said.
>
> On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 4:24 PM tuolumne bikes  
> wrote:
>
>>
>>> With apologies to anyone that's already seen enough of Herbie on 
>> Instagram. All that's left of his original life is headset, fork and frame. 
>> The original equipment was five speed indexed. Now it's solid seven speed 
>> friction. While I wouldn't ride it to Tibet, this is my most comfortable 
>> riding and handling bike, and it's been all over, even on tour. 
>>
>> The timing of this thread is great for a reminder that Weds September 23 
>> is the 2nd Annual Be Kind to Your Beater Bike Day. Fix, clean, upgrade, or 
>> do a great ride on your most basic bike and post with 
>> #bekindtoyourbeaterbikeday  This year BKYBBD lines up well with the 
>> northern California reschedules of Bike to Work Day as Bike to Anywhere Day 
>> on 9/24. It also could fit in with Adventure Cycling Association's Bike 
>> Your Park Day and Bike Travel Weekend which are 9/25-9/27. 
>>
>> If the air quality allows, and I can still ride up hills, Herbie will be 
>> hauling a pizza and thermos of tea to the top of Sonora Pass. Herb will get 
>> a new Tuolumne 108 sticker as a memento. The idea is to remember that even 
>> modest bikes can do great things. If we want biking to be more inclusive, 
>> we need to remember that not everyone can afford the spectacular bikes we 
>> love so much. Best way to celebrate? Support your local coop or community 
>> bike shop and their efforts to make biking more available and inviting for 
>> all.
>>
>> Thanks, Carl
>>
>>
>>
>>  
>>
>> -- 
>>
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>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/32bba494-e28c-4b8f-ad7d-c474cad982b9n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
>
> *Trevor Bradshaw*
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Best saddle for very upright posture?

[Pete B]

Jesse, I think you want a leather saddle, but have you considered a 
synthetic mountain bike saddle like the WTB Pure? It has a flat area, like 
the B-17, and wouldn't look out of place on a Surly.  

I replaced a B-17 Flyer on a on old Trek 950 with the WTB, because of 
limited setback. I don't sit bolt upright on that bike, but I'm using 
Albatross bars that are about even, maybe a bit higher than saddle level, 
so I'm fairly upright. It's not a toodler, but I am comfortable.

FWIW, I have a C-17 on a drop bar bike as it feels a little "racier" to me 
than a B-17 standard. Besides shape, I think it has less give than a 
leather saddle. I wouldn't recommend it for a "very upright" position. 
Maybe it's just sample variation, but my Flyer and Standard do not feel 
like the same saddle to me, despite the similarities. The Flyer seems 
better suited to a more upright posture. Perhaps that is because as John 
says above, the saddle dips with each pedal stroke (I know it does this, 
because I had to put a dab of grease on the spring rails keeps it from 
squeaking/rubbing). That dipping would explain why the nose of the Flyer 
seems more apparent to me in comparison to the Standard. 

Pete
Arlington, VA
On Tuesday, October 13, 2020 at 10:35:35 AM UTC-4 Jesse Stoddard wrote:

> Okay, so I borrowed a B17 this morning and set it up on my Ogre (73 seat 
> tube angle) with a Velo Orange long setback post (30mm setback), and even 
> with the saddle slammed, still didn't have enough setback. Also couldn't 
> get the nose angled up high enough. Within the next couple years I intend 
> to own a frame with a slacker seat tube angle, but in the interim I'll have 
> to come up with something with rails that will allow for greater setback, 
> which I understand is a feature of the Rivet Loveland. 
>
> I'm pretty curious about that C67, too. Any owners of which in this group?
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB/source for: 700c 1"threaded fork

[Pete B]

I'd call or email Soma before buying the fork you linked to, and ask about 
brake compatibility and tire clearance. The one you linked to is made for 
short-reach brakes. Soma sells a 1" threadless version, in black, with 
fender eyelets. That one is designed for medium/standard reach brakes 
(which probably what the Univega came with) and should handle a bigger 
tire. If you haven't already, you might want to take a close look at the 
top tube and downtube for signs of damage. There's always a chance the 
original fork was irreparably damaged in a crash. That, or it was donated 
to replace a fork that was.

The frame might've been free, but if it costs you $200 plus labor to put a 
ho-hum fork on there, or you later discover frame damage from a long ago 
accident, it's not good value. I'd think you could pretty easily find a 
frame and fork of the Univega's quality for much less than $200. Sorry to 
be a downer. 

Pete
Arlington, VA



On Friday, October 16, 2020 at 9:47:40 AM UTC-4 Patch T wrote:

> Hi Bunch!
>
> Found a decent (and free!) triple butted steel frame (85 Univega Maxima 
> Sport Mixte) to start a commuter I'm building for a friend. Trouble is, no 
> fork.
>
> Looking for a used steel fork or recommendations for a new one. 
>
>- 1" threaded
>- Any color, but black preferred. 
>- Lighter/lightish steel also preferred.
>- Headtube is about 110mm w/o headset; with headset installed, about 
>135mm from bottom of crown race to top of top race.
>- Caliper brake. 
>- Fender eyelets a plus, 
>- + rack eyelets even better!
>
> I'm close to buying this Soma Fork 
> <https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/product/soma-fork-crmo-49-road-threaded-1-3325?page=2&category=975>,
>  
> but the only color I don't want is chrome. If I find nothing, I'll go this 
> route *(and if I do, the 140mm will fit, right?) *Although I'd rather 
> spend less than 100 shipped...
>
> Thanks for your help!
> Patch
> BK/NY
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Albatross and Choco riders

[Pete P]

I first tried upright h’bars on my older Atala bike. Just to see if it

would work for me. I bought Albatross bars and it was a revelation!

So on my Atlantis I ditched my noodle drop bars and chose the Choco

bars - just for variety.  I  like both of these. (I won’t go back to those

now uncomfortable drop bars). 

They both have their plusses and minuses. The Albatross are wider and

Go through the doorway with more caution. The Choco bar doesn’t rise

up as much but the position on the curves is a favorite of mine. You can’t 
go wrong with either one!


Pete

On Friday, November 6, 2020 at 6:33:05 AM UTC-6 Joel S wrote:

> Thanks Roberta.  
>
> On Fri, Nov 6, 2020 at 4:11 AM Roberta  wrote:
>
>> My understanding is that the *bars* are the same shape and size; they 
>> differ in the stem attachment. I have  the c-m ones because that's what 
>> came with the bike. The norm version is more versatile. 
>>
>> There is a lot of choco-love here   Good luck with your search. 
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, November 5, 2020 at 10:09:55 PM UTC-5, Joel S wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks Roberta.  It is the Choco Norm I am thinking about. 
>>>
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[RBW] Re: Winter Riding Clothing

[Pete Olson]

I would second Mojo's recommendation of Sporthill XC pants.  The
fabric is a very good compromise of wicking, wind resistance, and
breathability.  I have an over 10 year old pair that has been heavily
used and hasn't worn out yet.  An approach for blocking windchill
without excessive condensation is using base or insulating layers with
a windblock fabric on the front only.  Craft makes base layer tops and
bottoms this way.  Shops that have cross country gear are good places
to look for winter gear and often, in northern Wisconsin where I live
as well as UP Michigan, these are also bike shops.  For wool loving
traditionalists, I have recently discovered Kühl, who make technical
blends of wool and fleece and an acrylic/polyester blend top that I
have that looks very much like boiled wool. -Pete
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[RBW] Re: New Years Day Ride

[Pete Olson]

My New Year’s Day ride was short but had variety.  The Christmas storm
in northern Wisconsin included snow, sleet, and freezing rain that has
left an icy rutted surface on the local back roads.  I rode my ’92
Bridgestone MB2 with studded tires on various paved and unpaved roads
(basically irrelevant with the icy snow cover), a snowmobile trail,
and frozen lake.  The tires worked very well on the roads,
surprisingly pretty well on the snowmobile trail, but not well at all
on the lake (I didn’t have enough floatation on the crusty snow but
couldn’t get traction on the lake ice).  It was 10 F air temperature
with a 9 mph wind.  Unfortunately, today started quite a bit colder,
-15 F.  My wife and I are waiting for it to warm up to -5 to go cross
country skiing. -Pete

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[RBW] Re: bridgestone mountain bike fit

[Pete Olson]

Tom-
I wouldn’t automatically reject the 49cm size; I think it might depend
on what handlebar height you prefer and what sort of terrain you will
be riding.  I have a 1992 MB-2 in 49 cm.  When I bought it, I found it
quite comfortable but as I have gotten older, I lost my tolerance for
long rides with the handlebars below saddle height.  (When purchased
in spring 1993, the dealer had added a Softride shock stem, which may
effectively have lowered the bar a little and stretched out the
reach.)  I have an 86 pbh and fairly long torso and arms.  I used to
ride a 56 cm horizontal top tube road bike but now am on a 59 cm
Romulus with the bars a little above the saddle.  I added a stem riser
to the MB-2 last summer and am currently using it as a winter utility
bike with studded tires.  Anyway, for me currently, I think the next
size up (52cm) Bridgestone would be a better fit and would be -7cm
compared to a RBW road bike. -Pete


On Jan 23, 4:45 pm, tlawnsby  wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Just curious if anyone has a Bridgestone mountain bike and how much
> shorter the size is vs your road bike.
>
> I had a new Bridgestone MB in the early 90's and loved it, but can't
> remember the size. There's another one on craigslist that I have an
> opportunity to purchase.
>
> My PBH is 82 -- I normally ride a 21" (53cm) regular road bike, and I
> have a 56cm Rambouillet which is perfect.
>
> The MB-4 for sale is  a 19" c-t -- I can try it out later this week
> but it's kind of a long drive, hate to waste the time if there's no
> chance of it fitting.
>
> Thanks, Tom.

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[RBW] Antoine de Saint Exupery quote

[Pete Olson]

This is a reference to the quote in the March 2nd Looking Through the
Keyhole.  I checked my copy of Wind, Sand and Stars and I think
Grant's paraphrase is exact except there is no contraction of "there
is" and a comma instead of the dots.  I think that "stripped down to
its nakedness" makes sense after the previous sentence:  "It is as if
there were a natural law which ordained that to achieve this end [the
principal of simplicity, mentioned in the preceding paragraph], to
refine the curve of a piece of furniture, or a ship's keel, or the
fuselage of an airplane, until gradually it partakes of the elementary
purity of the curve of a human breast or shoulder, there must be the
experimentation of several generations of craftsmen."  This is a
translation from the original French. -Pete

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[RBW] Re: Antoine de Saint Exupery quote

[Pete Olson]

On Mar 2, 6:28 pm, Pete Olson  wrote:
> This is a reference to the quote in the March 2nd Looking Through the
> Keyhole.

Or that might have been Peeking Through the Knothole.

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[RBW] Re: the "fire trails" of the upper midwest

[Pete Olson]

Hi Jim.  I’ve had a chance to ride my Rawland a little on trail and
mixed paved/gravel roads and the new, wide Noodle bar you guys added
works well.  I am struck the gravel roads I ride in northwestern
Wisconsin are heterogeneous as far as origins, land ownership and
responsibility for maintenance.  Some of the roads started as wagon
roads from the logging era (tote roads), logging railroads (a tip-off
is now having “grade” in its name), farm roads or forest roads put in
for multi-uses like logging, lake home, cabin and recreational access,
and fire control.  Besides unpaved farm roads, I ride on roads in
county forests, state forests, a national forest, and privately owned
commercial forest land.  I took a trip last summer to Keweenaw County
in U.P. Michigan and I think most of the forest land was in private
land holdings that go back to the time of mining exploration.  The
biggest change I see with most of these roads over the last twenty
years has been general “improvement” in the development sense which
means widening, straightening, adding gravel and more grading.
Unfortunately it is getting harder to find narrow, twisty roads, that
tunnel through the trees.  Near here, the Chippewa County Forest
trails probably come closest to western style fire trails; narrow, in
steep glacial moraine, not overly graded, and not plowed in the
winter.  According to someone I know who lives in the Blue Hills of
western Rusk County, the motivation of the local township board for
road widening is fear of liability if a driver runs off a road and
hits a tree.  Bill- I did some riding on the CAMBA system around
Hayward and Seeley last fall (Boedecker and Janet Rd and Phipps Fire
Lane) and Phipps Ln  in particular looked wider and more built up than
it was in the 80’s and 90’s.  -Pete

On May 14, 3:32 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:
> I've been reading about these "fire trails" in Grant's writings for
> years. As far as I know, we don't have fire trails in Minnesota, but
> we have thousands of miles of rural gravel roads, and races/rides on
> these gravel roads have exploded in popularity. This weekend I, along
> with several hundred others, will be riding the Almanzo 100, which is
> a free-for-all gravel century. Technically it's a race, but I
> seriously doubt that I'm in contention of finishing much better than
> middle-of-the-pack.
>
> It's arguable that Rivendell has played a role (indirectly) in
> popularizing this kind of event with Grant's advocacy of tire
> clearance and riding "road bikes" on unpaved surfaces. I'll be riding
> my Atlantis-inspired Goodrich, and I expect to see lots of Rivendells.
>
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[RBW] Re: Saluki on CL near Baltimore - Not Mine. Very Pretty!

[Pete Ruckelshaus]

It's also on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/2005-Rivendell-Saluki-Custom-Paint-50ST-52TT-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ110371102286QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRoad_Bikes?hash=item110371102286&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1494%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1308%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

Currently $788

On Apr 2, 4:13 pm, Marty  wrote:
> http://baltimore.craigslist.org/bik/1089886602.html
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[RBW] Re: things I like about Rivendell (ride report hijack)

[Pete Ruckelshaus]

Yes, but as persnickety as Grant can be at times, Chris from VO can be
moreso.  My favorite centers around his insistence that NOBODY needs
172.5mm cranks...170 or 175 should be enough of a choice.   And here I
sit, with the money for a new set of 172.5mm Sugino Alpina cranks
burning a hole in my pocket, not being able to buy them from the one
place on the web that I've been able tofind them for a decent price.
I've ridden 172.5's all my life, and I don't need to change that.

As far as "Things I like about Rivendell", just about everything.  I
don't dig the rising prices, but shopping online is a buyers market.
I'd LOVE to see a tigged steel frame from Riv in the $700 range.  I'd
love to be able to buy a new frame for my wife (who rides a 52cm)
without having to go to 650b wheels...sorry, I'm just not sold on
650b's, and I have a few sets of 700c wheels that I like.  I'd also
love to see the Rambouillet brought back.

Pete

On Apr 13, 9:40 pm, R Gonet  wrote:
> I second Gino's thoughts.  VO's comments often become very petty and
> devolve into sniping.  Makes you wonder why the people who are
> interested in VO's fine products behave that way.  Unlike this forum,
> I don't really want to be one of their group.
>
> On Apr 13, 9:16 pm, Gino Zahnd  wrote:
>
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[RBW] Re: Riv Bike-Fit/Sizing Method Questions

[Pete Ruckelshaus]

I'm 6'0" with an 86cm PBH.  I could have gone for either a 58 or 60
Rambouillet, but 58's are rare as hen's teeth on the used market, so I
bought a used 60cm.  I love the frame, but it really feels too big for
me...I raced in my youth, and have always felt that 58cm frames
usually fit about right, but this 60cm has me feeling like I'm riding
the high wire...to the point where I'm seriously considering selling
the 60cm Ram frame and going back to my old (58cm Specialized Allez
steel) frame (I'd prefer to find a 58cm Ram, though, so I can continue
to run wider tires).  I guess part of me also disagrees with Grant's
bigger frame = better philosophy, so take that with a grain of salt.
However, if I were in your shoes, I'd go for the smaller size in the
recommended size range.

Pete
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[RBW] Re: Has anyone seen these shoes

[Pete Ruckelshaus]

Man, those Sportivo's are pimpin'

Alas, I'll have to stick with the Sidi's my wife got me for
Saturnalia.

On Apr 20, 10:41 pm, Chuck  wrote:
> I have not personally seen these shoes but they sure look nice in
> pictures if you want something office fancy:  www.dromarti.com.
> Cheers,
> Chuck
>
> On Apr 19, 7:44 pm, usuk2007  wrote:
>
>
>
> >http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Exustar_SRT_707_Commuter~Office_Sho...
>
> > I noticed my old Shimano MTB shoes were getting a bit old yesterday so
> > I looked for something new
> > and came up with these traditional looking SPD compatible leather
> > shoes. Does anyone have experience with them? How are they to ride and
> > also walk in, ie is there a lot of cleat click?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Re: WTB: Shimano 600 brake lever w/ built in quick release

[Pete Ruckelshaus]

If you're looking for a non-aero replacement, what about these?
http://www.velo-orange.com/diacompe.html

Pete

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[RBW] Re: Coated brake and derailleur cables

[Pete Ruckelshaus]

I always make a point of getting control cables that are drawn smooth
through a die.  I believe the ones I am using now are SRAM.

Pete
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[RBW] Re: new front racks?

[Pete Ruckelshaus]

Acorn makes great bags.  I have two saddle bags (2 strap roll and the
medium) and they are everything I look for in a product: well made,
very functional, and good looking.

On Jun 4, 9:25 am, clevewheel  wrote:
> A lot of people like the Acorn bags - a nice tan color with a kind of
> buckle that's easy to use on the fly.  I am very fond of my Bertoud -
> a standard one with stretchy pocket closures.
>
> As for the new racks - proto one looks ungainly to my eye, proto two
> looks the business!  Consider using the Nigel Smythe big box - the
> ultimate in good looks, durability, and ease of use.
>
> Kathryn
> Eugene, OR
>
> On Jun 3, 1:43 pm, j.m.aydelo...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>
>
> > I already have a VO porteur rack, and love it.  I'm still looking for
> > the perfect bag.  What I first wanted was one of the Hershberger
> > baskets that sat on the porteur, but those aren't being made any
> > longer.  I also considered a Zugster porteur bag, but their waiting
> > list is ridiculously long.  I've considered making my own crate or
> > ordering a custom basket, but am still searching...
>
> > So now that Riv seems to have these racks coming, does anyone know if
> > they plan to make a bag for it?
>
> > John
>
> > On Jun 3, 10:46 am, Jeremy Till  wrote:
>
> > > Riv (grant?) mentions it in their (his?) latest "Knothole" post, in
> > > describing the new pictures in the rotation on the main page.  It
> > > looks nice, like a campee touring rack with an extended "porteur"
> > > style platform.  It looks great, and I assume it'll come out somewhere
> > > in the $200 price point, given the current price of the campee rack.
> > > I guess it'll compete with the VO porteur, Pass and Stow, etc.- Hide 
> > > quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Re: a carbon "noodle"?

[Pete Ruckelshaus]

Also, considering Nitto probably copied the design from any of a
number companies -- GB, Pivo, AVA, Atax, among others -- I think prior
art would apply.

Pete

On Jun 5, 8:45 am, Will  wrote:
> Is having the bars sweep back a patentable design element? I notice in
> the next photo that the drops are anatomically shaped, not the
> traditional round curve. Ain't exactly the Noodle/Soba.
>
> On Jun 5, 6:19 am, Jay LePree  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Hi Aaron:
>
> > It looks amazingly like the Noodles.  I am surprised the reviewer did
> > not like them, and I am surprised by his comment insufficient room up
> > top while climbing.
>
> > What amazes me more is that this "mid-range" model is $3800 for frame
> > fork and headset.  I have the strategy nowleave a print out of
> > this bike next to my wife's bedside table and convince her that the
> > custom Riv is much better value by comparison.  Even cheaper than a
> > mid-range model.
>
> > Regards,
>
> > Jay
> > Demarest, NJ
>
> > On Jun 5, 2:31 am, Aaron Thomas  wrote:
>
> > > Does this shape look familiar to anyone? I wonder if any patents were
> > > violated
>
> > >http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech.php?id=/photos/2009/tech/reviews/stor...- 
> > >Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Re: A slight change in style

[Pete Ruckelshaus]

Are those 650b wheels?


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[RBW] Re: A slight change in style

[Pete Ruckelshaus]

Ah, gotcha.  Looked like a 56 with the longer headtube.

Pete

On Jun 23, 9:11 am, Bruce  wrote:
> No. The frame is a 52 cm, and takes 26" rims. That is what you see.
>
> ____
> From: Pete Ruckelshaus 
> To: RBW Owners Bunch 
> Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2009 8:08:33 AM
> Subject: [RBW] Re: A slight change in style
>
> Are those 650b wheels?
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[RBW] Re: Bike shops/offroad trails in Duluth, MN?

[Pete Olson]

Paul-
The CAMBA trails in northwest Wisconsin may be too far from Duluth
(50-70 miles I would guess) but have lots of rides on gravel roads and
fire lanes, some of it quite hilly. Their website is: 
http://www.cambatrails.org/
-Pete

On Jul 31, 10:35 am, Paul Sanders  wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm bringing my Bombadil up to Duluth for the weekend, hoping to find some
> hills and interesting off-the-beaten path rides (I think I have that part
> covered).
>
> Does anyone have any recommendations of bike shops in Duluth to buy a local
> trail map? I try to frequent locally owned places that are support the
> "philosophy" and attitude toward riding we discuss on this board.
>
> Any recommendations for Duluth area off road/ fire trail riding that avoids
> the "hardcore" MTB attitude in general is appreciated (not trying to make a
> statement, I race my mountain bike sometimes. Just not in the mood for that
> this weekend.)
>
> Thanks,
> Paul S.

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[RBW] Re: women's bikes

[Pete Olson]

Aaron-
Rivendell has 50 and 52 cm Rambouillets in their frame specials
sections.  My wife, who is a little taller than your friends, recently
got one of the 52's after a long look for a versatile road bike that
would fit her without toe overlap or other issues (she is relatively
short waisted and has short arms). Keven at RBW advised us over the
phone and the fit worked out really well with the standard stem.  The
handlebars are set just above saddle height.  The bike has 26"/559bsd
wheels and comes with 1.25" Paselas.  It is basically set up as a
sports tourer but their are lots of 1x26" tires available (conversely
there is plenty of extra clearance to go wider). $2,350 (bike minus
saddle and pedals) is expensive for a beginner but an excellent value.
-Pete

On Sep 2, 5:03 pm, Aaron Thomas  wrote:
> Perhaps slightly off-topic, but I seek the collective wisdom of the
> group.
>
> I have two female friends who want to get into cycling. They are both
> fairly athletic and are looking for a sporty sort of bike that they
> can use on club rides. Neither has the cash for a Roadeo, assuming
> they could even fit one (at 5'1" and 5'3" they are both probably too
> short anyway).
>
> Obviously, they're looking into off-the-peg women's-specific bike by
> the big makers (Trek, Specialized, etc.).
>
> But if I wanted to steer them towards a steel bike with at least the
> possibility of taking some Rol-y Pol-y tires, where might I look for
> something easy on the pocketbook (and largely off-the-peg) without
> going custom like Luna Cycles?
>
> Also, can anyone offer any sizing tips for women for women of their
> stature, assuming they want something of a sporty fit with bars at or
> just below saddle height?
>
> Thanks,
> Aaron
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[RBW] Re: Rivendell product wishlist

[Pete Ruckelshaus]

I have my 30 year old Opinel sitting in my desk drawer.  I bought it
as a teenager for woodcarving.  It's still in great shape, and razor
sharp.

On Sep 9, 2:12 pm, Bill Connell  wrote:
> On Wed, Sep 9, 2009 at 1:06 PM, beth h  wrote:
>
> > I love the wooly warm sweater and vest (I got the vest as a gift some
> > years ago) and would love to see them come back.
> > As for pocket knives, bringing in the Opinel (wood-handled folding
> > model, perhaps a No. 7 or No. 8 size) seems like a no-brainer. Very
> > affordable knives made well.
>
> +1, the Opinel would be a very Riv-like addition. They could also
> instruct people to use the lock properly, so they don't do what i did
> the weekend i bought mine years ago and have it fold closed on my
> thumb.
>
> --
> Bill Connell
> St. Paul, MN
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[RBW] Re: Roadie vs Ebisu Road

[Pete Ruckelshaus]

My current bike is a Ram, but I'm thinking about a custom Ebisu for my
next frame.

On Sep 2, 3:40 pm, usuk2007  wrote:
> $2k for a Riv/Waterford Roadie or $1.5k for a Ebisu Road. Discuss
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[RBW] Re: Other Riv-ish companies of interest to us all

[Pete Olson]

> So, what other companies fall in this category for you guys?

I have thought of the similarities of Rivendell and Peter Limmer and
Sons Boots, http://www.limmerboot.com/.  There is about a 3 1/2 year
wait the last I heard for the customs, which did cost $600 and are now
probably more (they make a wood copy of the customers foot to build
the shoe around).  I bought a pair of "off the shelves" a few years
ago at half the price but still sent two sets of foot tracings and had
several phone calls and emails.  I remember my wife telling me there
was a really long message on my answering machine from some guy named
Carl with a New England accent looking at my tracings and wondering if
I had a hammer toe (I don't).  There is also a high degree of customer
loyalty with pictures on the website of wedding parties in Limmer
boots or the boots with Mt. Everest in the background that people have
sent in. -Pete
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[RBW] Re: In the market for a 61cm or 64cm Atlantis

[Pete Morey]

Wally-
I'm just a hair under 6'1" with a 89cm PBH and ride a 61 which fits like a
glove.  A 64 while sounding big would probably fit like a 60cm LHT (give or
take).  There is a really nice looking 64 on eBay at a good price right now
that apparently has been ridden only 100 miles which is half of what mine
got on it's first weekend after being built.
Good luck and you won't regret it!
Pete (first post to the group)


>

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[RBW] FS: Rivendell A Homer Hilsen 61cm frameset NIB

[Pete M]

Howdy RBW group,

I've got a new in the box never built up A Homer Hilsen frameset 61cm that
was bought for a 2009 project.  It has only been out of the box once when I
got it to check it over so never built, never had a part hung on it.  My
bike project budget has been slashed for now.and I'm looking to recoup some
of my expense and hopefully pass on a deal that is good for both parties.
So my AHH 61cm blue Toyo built frame is on the block.  I'm looking to get
$1600.00 out of it and I'll pick up shipping in the US lower 48.  It will be
shipped in the same box that Rivendell sent it to me in with the same
packing and everything.  They know how to box a bike so no worries about it
making it intact to the next lucky owner.
I have a few parts I ordered with it that I'd be willing to include (all
new) that I'd be willing to include at a discount also.  These include
Silver badged brakes, silver bar end shifters, Nitto stem 100mm, Nitto
Sobars and Nitto post.

If you may be interested I can take it out of the box tomorrow and snap some
photos and also of whatever parts you would be interested in along with the
frame.  I don't want to sell the parts separately until the frameset is
sold.
I can do Money Orders or Paypal if you pick up the fees on the transaction.

Email me directly at commonguy001 at gmail dot com if interested
Thanks for reading
Pete

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[RBW] Re: Country Bikes Needed Here, Too

[Pete Ruckelshaus]

Yeah, I'm sure there were a few thought processes that went sort of
like this:
Pre-race:
"Install a triple or a 28?  Nah, that's for wimps"
Post-race:
"Should have ridden my mountain bike with the triple and the 32...and
the big tires!  Walking is embarassing!"

Looks like a cool race, sort of like a Bayou l'Eroica.

Pete

On Mar 12, 12:20 am, Mike  wrote:
> That does look like a cool event. I bet a few folks rode cross bikes.
> But yeah, a Hilsen, or even a Rambouillet with 28s would be better for
> that than most of those bikes. I got the impression that some of the
> folks did not enjoy that ride. Nothing worse than walking your bike
> uphill in a road race.
>
> http://www.bike-zone.com/photos/2006/news/nov06/koppenberg/jpKellyFla...
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[RBW] Re: Fenders for the 650b Schwalbe Big Bens

[Pete Olson]

I currently am using 55mm SKS Velo Cross fenders. These are shorter fenders 
without stays (although you can add some). I opted for these because I have 
two sets of wheels, currently one with Big Bens and one with B-Lines, and 
the fit is ok with either.  I also have a pair of SKS 55 mm conventional 
fenders that I formerly had on this bike until I had started using Quasi 
Motos.  If I extended the fender to the ends of the stays they would just 
fit but with little clearance by the side lugs (and the fender line was 
quite ugly). I just measured the fender edge to edge chord at 59mm. As my 
Big Bens only measure 48 mm on Synergy rims, they might fit decently with 
the 55mm conventional fender. Here is a picture of my Rawland with Big 
Bens. I made a little extension of the front of the rear fender with duct 
tape for better coverage. -Pete

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b331/olsonps/P9190217c.jpg

On Monday, September 29, 2014 10:24:04 PM UTC-5, Meade Anderson wrote:
>
> Has anybody tired a fender to cover these rubber critters?  The tires are 
> big as I just mounted one for testing purposes and needless to say they 
> ain't going to roll with my current Honjo's.  I was thinking maybe one of 
> the Planet Bike fenders would work but am welcoming any experience or 
> insight into covering these big rubbers...
>
> thanks
>
> meade
>

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Re: [RBW] One last time: 559X 32 mm Kojaks versus 559X 32 mm Primo Racers versus others?

[Pete Olson]

I put the 26x1.25 New Express Tires on my wife's small frame Rambouillet 
last season.  They are listed as 330 grams on the Soma paper strip that 
held them together.  They measure about 28.5mm wide on the stock, road 
oriented rims, which is just about the same as the previous 1.25 Paselas.  
No flats so far.  -Pete

On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 9:25:44 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Many thanks, Chris, I'd not heard of these. If it is obviously better than 
> the Pasela, then it's certainly worth investigating. I'll check them out.
>
>
> OS125  said:
>
> I recently went to the Soma New Express tire in 700 X 32, and have found 
> it to be an exceptionally smooth-running tire. Soma lists a 26 x 1.25 
> version in stock. The difference in suppleness of ride between this tire 
> and a Pasela TG is quite obvious to me. The bike feels like a different 
> machine. The nature of my commute, and my unerring ability to ride straight 
> over sparkly bits regardless of how much room and warning is given, assures 
> the flat protection in the new tires would be tested. It has not been found 
> wanting. 
>  

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[RBW] do these bars look too high?

[Pete Porvaz]

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5836/23051338044_2cd564a8af_n.jpg 

I'm really liking my newly mounted dirt drop stem. It's not a simple change 
but for me was so worth it. Next up something to wrap on the tops where I 
do most of my riding.
Thought about a different bar but I just like the noodle bar. It does look 
waay up there!
Pete

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[RBW] Re: do these bars look too high?

[Pete Porvaz]

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5836/23051338044_2cd564a8af_z.jpg

here is a medium sized version of the same photo. I was on the Olav Sabo 
bike bridge here in Minneapolis Minnesota on one of my last rides mid 
December 2015. I don't ride my Atlantis in the wintertime but the balmy 
weather made me go for a 22 mile loop around the greenway and home. The 
bars are feeling good to me at that height. I'll do more riding in March 
next year and probably during the winter add some padding on the tops of 
the drop bars where I spend 98% of my riding . In the winter I commute 6 
miles on a "sacrificial" bike with studded tires (going on 10 years now- 
gotta love that lugged steel!) and a 55" fixed gear.
Thanks to all who replied. I especially like the photos from weth and 
clayton. 
Best wishes to all on this great forum for a merry Christmas and a blessed 
new year!
Pete

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[RBW] Re: 650b Commuter Tires: Actual Width of Schwalbe Big Ben & Pasela PT

[Pete Olson]

I found my caliper (we are packing for a house move) and measured my last 
years model Big Bens mounted on Synergy rims. The width was a little over 
48 mm rear and a little under 48 front. I didn't check the exact tire 
pressures but I usually go about 40 r/ 35 f. -Pete

On Sunday, April 12, 2015 at 9:05:38 AM UTC-5, David Banzer wrote:
>
> Anyone know the actual width of this guy: 
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/tben-10138r.htm
> & this guy: http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/tpp-10142.htm
> I've been using the new PariMotos, which ride great, but I have gotten a 
> few flats, exclusively in wet weather, and would rather not worry about 
> changing a flat in the rain anymore.
> Any info is much appreciated.
> Thanks,
> David
> Chicago
>

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[RBW] Re: I really dislike sales tax

[Pete Olson]

I hadn’t noticed before reading this thread that Rivendell carries
Devold; I didn’t think that this brand was imported.  I have a Devold
wool top and a neck warmer from Norway that are very nice.  It is the
centennial of the Amundsen South Pole expedition and here is a
translation of the role of Devold:

1911 - 2011 Amundsen and Devold at the South Pole 100 years ago.

December 14, 2011 is the 100th anniversary of Roald Amundsen and his
expedition reaching the North Pole. This feat made Amundsen one of
history's most famous polar explorers.  To survive in the
extreme climate, expedition members were also dependent on proper
clothing. In 1911, Devold had produced warm clothing made of wool for
over 50 years, and was a well-known supplier of durable wool. As
Nansen had done before him, for the crossing of Greenland, Amundsen
also chose wool from Devold for his expedition. We are proud to have
been part of this event.

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