[RBW] Re: Thoughts and experiences with 48cm Noodles?

[MichaelH]

My experience was just the opposite.  I'm 6'1" and ride a 62 Ram.  I
switched from 46 to 48 and found I preferred the 46.  I think it's
going to be a pretty personal choice. In addition to not feeling quite
right to me, 48 seemed to make the slow speed handling a bit twitchy.
Fortunately used noodles are easy to sell, so it wont be too big a
deal either way.

michael

On Feb 22, 3:48 pm, Leslie  wrote:
> I'm also 6' and not narrow-shouldered, and am running 48cm Noodles on
> my Rambouillet (a 60cm frame).  I really wouldn't want something
> narrower on there.
>
> I'm currently plotting a Bomba, tryin' to decide what to do... would
> be tempted to go w/ bigger Noodles if they had any bigger than 48's,
> or, maybe some drops that splay out...  but I may go w/ a
> Bullmoose still decipherin'
>
> -L
>
> On Feb 22, 1:06 pm, Mike  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I'm planning on putting together a touring/camping bike this year and
> > kicking around the idea of using 48cm Noodle handlebars. I've been
> > using the 46s for years now and love them but when touring on them
> > there have been times when I found myself wishing they were a tad
> > wider, especially when climbing. I'm 6' and broad shouldered. I have a
> > feeling the perceived drawbacks to using them are more mental and
> > cosmetic. What are folks experiences with using them?
>
> > Last year I sold my Rambouillet frame with the intention of using the
> > funds for a Hunqapillar or maybe a Hillborne. I've taken my time in
> > trying to make a decision and am starting to lean more towards an LHT.
> > Yes, a far lesser bike but very capable and something I'm more
> > inclined to feel comfortable locking up around town. I'd probably get
> > a 60cm frame with the 26" wheels so with 48cm bars it would certainly
> > be an odd looking bike but probably very practical. Who knows though,
> > those new pictures of the SH really have the wheels in my head
> > spinning. And I do like to support RBW.
>
> > Thanks,
> > mike

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[RBW] Re: FS: Dinotte Lights 200L headlight and 140L taillight kit

[MichaelH]

If you don't need lighting for more than 4 hours at a time, and want
lights for more than one bike, these are an optimum solution.  I have
used them for the past four years and have been very happy with them.
They are extremely lite and light.

michael

On Feb 24, 10:52 pm, Rod C  wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I'm selling this kit for $150 shipped CONUS.  Don't know if anyone on
> this
> group is interested in non dynamo lighting but here goes.  It's been
> used but
> well cared for.
>
> Everything works just as it did when I bought a year ago.
> Here's the kit.
>
> http://rodc.smugmug.com/photos/1197850635_9HCQo-L.jpg
>
> Please message me directly if interested.
> Great for commuting.
>
> Paypal payment.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rod

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[RBW] Re: Most Plastic Water Bottles Leach Chemicals

[MichaelH]

I use the kleen canteen bottles on nitto cages.  If you don't squeeze
the cage tight they will rattle, but are otherwise quite secure.

michael

On Mar 6, 4:54 pm, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 4:45 PM, cyclotourist  wrote:
> > Is there a solution for carrying stainless steel bottles?  They don't fit
> > well in traditional cages, although I know it can be done.
>
> I've found the kleen canteen ones work pretty well in the cages that riv 
> offers.
>
> -sv

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[RBW] Re: Grant refers to this helmet guy for some reason

[MichaelH]

My experience confirms that safety concerns are the biggest impediment
to getting people on bicycles.  No doubt, the ubiquitous helmet
contributes to that fear, but I am convinced that fear has two other
deeper causes.  First, far too many roads where most commuters ride
are unnecessarily dangerous and new riders lack the skill and moxie to
take their share of the lane.  Second, Americans watch way too much
TV, which is an entire industry composed of fearful, angry, unhappy
people intent on making everyone else fearful, resentful, and
unhappy.  There are many things that people ought to be concerned
about, like climate change and spreading poverty, but instead, as this
video clip pointed out, we are all encouraged to be stressed out about
minimal or non existent dangers.  Too many people simply approach
life, including cycling, from that place of fear.

I just retired from a physically and emotionally demanding job at a
major medical center.  Whenever I mentioned the slightest ache or pain
I would invariably be asked or simply assumed that I had hurt myself
commuting to work.  Yet, with a daily census of around 450 inpatients
we probably averaged two admissions a year for cycling injuries.

Promoting reason over fear is a good thing to do, but I doubt that the
bicycle helmet is the best place to start.

michael,
not enjoying mud season in VT!

On Mar 16, 4:20 am, newenglandbike  wrote:
> Can't comment on the speaker's delivery, but what does that matter?
> I pretty much agreed with most of what the guy said, that is, to
> get people on bicycles, you don't want to force them to wear a helmet
> and imply that they are doing something more dangerous than
> driving.      Conversely, the overbearing prevalence of private-
> automobile culture could probably be combatted effectively by
> enforcing a strict automobile helmet law.
>
> 'Copenhagencyclechic' and it's sister-sites across the web represent
> exactly the kind of campaign bicycling needs-- something that appeals
> to peoples' (women and men's) sense of freedom and individuality (and
> vanity), and incidentally the idea of bicycling for utility/
> transportation rather than for sport or recreation.    The bottom line
> is, the energy-rich, complacent people (not saying this is ALL people)
> of the industrialized world aren't going to hop on bikes because of
> Peak
> Oil or 390ppm CO2 in the atmosphere, and the hotter, more barren
> planet that we have created and will leave to the next generation.
> But if you appeal to their sense of vanity, you could make some
> headway.   This is exactly what the automobile industry does to sell
> cars-  and they know what they are doing.
>
> -Matt
>
> On Mar 16, 12:33 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Damn, Jim, it's about time someone had the courage to raise this highly
> > troublesome subject; moral standards in this our little world of odd, retro
> > bike geekdom are tumbling fast.
>
> > Patrick "Sarah Palin for President -- as long as she promises complete
> > silence for four years: Moore
>
> > On Tue, Mar 15, 2011 at 7:17 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery <
>
> > thill@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > I have nothing against professional photographers or exploiting people, 
> > > but
> > > I am greatly offended by the shameless portrayal of internal gear hubs and
> > > chain guards as sensible for transportation bikes! Both of these cause me
> > > lots of trouble on a daily basis!
>
> > >  --
> > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
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> > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
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> > > For more options, visit this group at
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>
> > --
> > Patrick Moore
> > Albuquerque, NM
> > For professional resumes, contact
> > Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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[RBW] When is a bike to heavy?

[MichaelH]

OK, now that we have dispensed with helmets, allow me to raise another
controversial topic.

This is not like, when am I too heavy, which is easy right now.

I have 4 bikes, well 6 really, but we wont go into those details.  All
four of them are around 62 cm and get ridden regularly - a 1988
classic stage racing frame, weighing around 22 lbs; a Rambouillet,
outfitted with White/ Open Pro wheels,  a White dbl crank, Honjo
fenders,  a Mark's Rack, and light tires also weighing about 22 lbs.;
a 1984 Trek (Reynolds 531 standard gauge tubing)  with Shimano 9 speed
cranks and shifters, SKS Fenders, Passella 32 mm T Guards and  coming
in around 25 lbs; and An Ebisu All Purpose, with front and real steel
racks, steel fenders, MA 40 Rims, triple DaVinci Cranks, and 38 mm
Avocet Cross tires that weighs in at a hefty 30 lbs.

I live in Vermont, which has lots of rolling hills and some
significant climbs.   Do you think the 5 lbs alone, between the Trek
and Ebisu is enough to effect the performance?  What about the 3 lb
difference between the Rambouillet and the Trek?  Or, are the
perceived differences imaginary?

michael

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[RBW] Re: now they've done it. Campy canti's!!

[MichaelH]

They certainly look like a good design, and if you want to use Campy
levers it's probably a good choice.  My experience suggests that
Shimano brifters do not work well with cantis, even Shimano cantis.
But I owe my life to Paul, so I'll be sticking to my neos, as well as
they stick to my rims.

michael

On Mar 17, 12:02 pm, Michael_S  wrote:
> I saw these today new Campy canti brakes... now I know what to
> save my money for. Look beautiful and they come in silver. And I can
> stop looking for vintage Campy OR canti's.( I have one set but need a
> second in case someone has one set and want to sell theirs?)
>
> http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/03/16/campagnolo-reveals-previews-of-20...
>
> ~Mike

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[RBW] Re: When is a bike to heavy?

[MichaelH]

Well, this certainly has been a lively discussion!  I'm inclined to
suspect that Jan Heine is right.  My 22 lb Rambouillet and 25 lb Trek
620 have similar geometry and very similar handling and
responsiveness, despite a 10% weight difference.  The 30 lb Ebisu has
the advantage of handling significantly beefier tires (It seems to be
like an AHH but with canti brakes) but the OS tubing and added
stiffness may degrade responsiveness a small but noticeable amount.  I
don't think I have ever ridden a standard gauge frame designed around
35-42 mm tires that wasn't also specked to be a workhorse.  Is it live
or is it memorex?  Is it weight or is it stiffness? Who can be sure!

The snow and mud is receding here in Vt but with the wind blowing at
40 - 50 mph, no bike feels lively.

michael




On Mar 18, 10:52 am, Jan Heine  wrote:
> > i can almost guarantee if you reduce bike weight by 5 lbs, you
> > will both notice and enjoy the difference.
>
> I am not sure that bike weight matters much by itself. My bike rides
> the same whether I carry only a spare tube in the handlebar bag or am
> loaded down with 10 lbs of food and clothes for a 600 km brevet. (Yes,
> you can measure the difference on a long climb, but it doesn't change
> how the bike feels, nor how much I enjoy the ride.)
>
> That said, I really dislike riding bikes with heavy frames. Not
> because they weigh more, but because they feel different. Call it
> "lively feel" or "planing," there is a joy to a high-performance bike
> that is absent from a bike that is overbuilt and too stiff for the
> purpose. Putting lighter parts on a heavy frame doesn't make a
> difference...
>
> In the 1960s and early 1970s, time trial bikes were equipped with
> drilled-out components and even cantilever brakes to save weight.
> (Remember http://www.bikequarterly.com/rebour.html";>Merckx'
> hour record bike?) The conventional wisdom was that a TT bike had
> to be as light as possible, even on a flat course. Of course, we all
> know that the bike's weight matters little in a flat time trial, but
> the old wisdom probably had some underlying grain of truth. I am sure
> that I would have preferred to ride at a constant, all-out effort on
> the superlight frame of a TT bike than on the heavier frame of a
> standard racing bike, because of its "lively feel" or "planing," and
> not because of the holes drilled into the chainrings!
>
> Jan Heine
> Editor
> Bicycle Quarterlyhttp://www.bikequarterly.com
>
> Follow our blog athttp://janheine.wordpress.com/

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[RBW] Re: now they've done it. Campy canti's!!

[MichaelH]

I was headed out for a ride today, when I discovered the 105 hubs I
was using needed some serious attention.  Long before I was finished I
came to the conclusion that adjusting these hubs was way harder than
the '80 vintage Campys I used for 25 years, and way harder than the
Whites I built up two years ago.  Right now, if I were putting a bike
together, other than derailleurs and cassettes, I would avoid Campy,
Sram, and Shimano altogether. There are just too many better
alternatives available - Pauls brakes, PW & White hubs & BBs, White,
DaVinci, Sugino, TA cranks, Cane Creek / Tektro levers, Silver
shifters, Chris King HS, Wipperman chains  and of course  Nitto
parts.

michael

On Mar 18, 1:28 pm, bfd  wrote:
> On Mar 18, 9:39 am, Sean Whelan  wrote:> I look 
> forward to the new Canti's from Campagnolo, as I have a cross bike that could 
> use them. My biggest problem with Campy in recent years is that they have 
> pushed so far into the 11-speed madness across most of their range and they 
> don't really sell much that I'd want to buy. They discontinued their silver 
> hubs and low end triple cranks as well.
>
> Actually, unless you have to get Record or Chorus, Campy still offers
> 10 speed cranks/bb/ft der in their 2011 Centaur, Veloce and the new CX
> lineup.
>
> They also offer a "Comp triple" crankset/bb/ft der, in silver too!:
>
> http://www.campagnolo.com/jsp/en/groupsetdetail/item_guarCOMPTRIPLE_c...
>
> Doing a quick search, I found the crankset starts at about $175 and
> goes up to $250 depending on where you shop. It might be cheaper in
> the UK.
>
> I agree that it is a shame Campy now only offers one hub, Record, in
> black only - looks cheap and ugly! However, you can probably blame the
> market, which includes Campy, for moving towards pre-built, boutique
> wheels. Why sell a hub at say $200-250, when you can get people to buy
> entire wheelsets at $1K or MORE?!
>
> > I have 3 Campy equipped bikes but if I bought a new bike this year, I'd be 
> > hard pressed to outfit it with new Campy stuff. 11-Speed Chorus? Man, I 
> > don't think so.
>
> Take a look at Centaur and Veloce or if you can handle a compact
> double, the new CX stuff. One reason I like Campy is that its ergo
> shifters are rebuildable AND maybe more importantly, small parts are
> readily available. You won't get that with Shimano STI or Sram double
> tap shifters. Good Luck!

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[RBW] Re: Wife's new Atlantis

[MichaelH]

OMG, did you spend a lot of time wiping the drool off before you took
the pictures!  Tell us about the fenders.

michael

On Mar 18, 3:09 pm, Kelly Sleeper  wrote:
> Ok so since Dawn hasn't posted I can't help but share this beauty!
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/tksleeper/5516895710/in/photostream/
>
> I think I may be jealous of the way this one turned out. :)
>
> Kelly

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Atlantis

[MichaelH]

You have gotten lots of good advice.  I would add one thought; Riv
measures their bikes CTC, which actually makes them about 1 CM smaller
than most other bike companies, which measure CTT.  It also depends on
where you want the handlebars in relation to the saddle.  I think
Grant assumes even to 2 cm above.  If you ride 2 or more cm below (as
I do), then one size smaller will be fine.

When I bought my Rambouillet, Grant recommended a 64, but I went with
62, because it was in stock, and 64 "sounded" large.  I thought the 62
was CTT, Although I'm perfectly happy with 62, I now realize that 63
CTC or 64 CTT would actually be a perfect fit.

You wont go wrong trusting the Riv recommendation.

michael

On Mar 17, 9:55 pm, Khalid Mateen  wrote:
> Hello everyone:
>
> I am new to this forum and I have a question to ask about ordering an
> Atlantis.  I have taken my PBH but I am no where near Walnut Creek
> California.  I am on the east coast of the US and no where near a Rivendell
> Dealer.  Can you tell me, your experience of bicycle fit when ordering over
> the phone a bicycle that you have never tried?  Did the bicycle feel to big
> or too small?  I have always heard good things about the people who work for
> Rivendell Bicycle works but wanted to ask people who actually purchase their
> bicycles.
>
> THanks
>
> Khalid

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[RBW] Lever question

[MichaelH]

Can anyone help me understand the difference between the tektro 200
levers, which Riv lists on the site, vs. the stock 340s, listed on the
tektro site?  I have the Cane Creek, w gum hoods, which I think are
great levers and don't want to be disappointed by something inferior
for the sake of $10.

michael

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[RBW] Re: Japanese Atlantis vs Wisconsin Waterford Atlantis

[MichaelH]

I would love to own an Atlantis, no matter where it is made.  I do
have a general bias in favor of buying as close to home as possible
but that is not based on any assumptions about quality.

michael

On Mar 20, 11:38 am, Khalid Mateen  wrote:
> I do not want to start a fiery debate about this but what makes japanese
> atlantis built bicycle superior to the American made ones?  Just curious.
> When there was an announcement that Rivendell would no longer have the Toyo
> plant build their bicycles, people with money to spare went after the last
> batch of those frames.  It is the steel?  The craftmanship?
>
> Regards,
>
> K.

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[RBW] Re: Longboard fenders on a Ram

[MichaelH]

I commuted for many years with a mud flap that was a couple of inches
off the ground.  You will not be able to use any variety of fork mount
roof top carrier, but other than that, no problem.

michael

On Mar 25, 5:27 pm, Steve Wimberg  wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I just installed a set of Longbard fenders on my 60cm Rambouillet.  
> The bottom of the front rubber mudflap is only 2 inches off the  
> ground, which seems low to me.  On a brief test ride this morning, I  
> noticed that it does catch on the edge of a curb when riding off of  
> one.  But that in itself doesn't appear to be such a big deal because  
> the rubber is flexible.
>
> Does anyone see any potential problems with the bottom of the fender  
> being so low?  I am really only riding on the road - no trails or  
> anything like that.
>
> Thoughts?
> Steve

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[RBW] Re: (Tall Riders) Rando Bags

[MichaelH]

Ditto what Doug wrote.  The top of the bag does sag just a bit, which
I'm sure it wouldn't do with a decaleur, but so what.  The bag sits
very solidly and comes on and off pretty easily.  The strap that sells
with it is also very well done.

michael

On Mar 25, 11:03 pm, doug peterson  wrote:
> Kelly:
>
> I've been pleased with Acorn's Boxy Rando on a Nitto small front rack
> (same platform as Mark's, I think?).  Sits on the rack solidly, no
> connnection to the h'bars.  Holds a ton of stuff.  Acorn puts a
> stiffener inside so the bag pretty much maintains its shape.  Had mine
> for a couple of years now & wouldn't leave home without it.  And it
> looks great.
>
> dougP
>
> On Mar 25, 7:09 pm, Kelly Sleeper  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I keep looking and thinking that during the summer when I'm not out to carry
> > as much that a rando bag on a marks rack might be the ticket.  
>
> > Trouble is I don't think they make rando bags tall enough to reach the
> > Decaleur. I'm measuring about 15 inches from top of rack to bottom of
> > handlebars.  
>
> > So what have you done?
>
> > Kelly

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[MichaelH]

Great question.  I am going to assume that this is a go-fast bike,
built for fast club rides and maybe an occasional rondenee, yes?

For a drive train you will want a nice compact double, like the better
Sugino Alpina, or the Da Vinci, unless you have you heart set on a
TA.  A 48/34 mated to a Hyperglide 12/27 cassette gives .  If you need
or want a lower gear (I do) I would strongly recommend springing for
the White VBC, which is a beautiful crank and you can set it up as a
44/30 with an 11-28 cassette for an excellent gear range and shift
pattern.  Still cheaper than TA & musa.  For BB anything economical
will do, and for this bike i would definitely not go PW.

Wheels - Open Pro rims mated to either White or Ultegra hubs,
depending on whether you prefer sealed or serviceable bearings.  I
like the White hubs - lighter and cheaper than PW.  Some people find
them noisy, and they do have a loudish hum which you can hear when
coasting below 17/18 mph.

Silver Down Tube shifters.  Faster than BE, cleaner looking than SIS
and in many situations, faster too. Least fussy shifters money can
buy.  If you have never used them you have nothing to loose but your
fear.

Aero levers mated to your hand size.  I like the fat Cane Creek/
Tecktro, but some people find the narrower 105's more to their
liking.  Brake caliper's depend on your fender choice.  If you are
putting a nice pair of Honjo Hammered (which would look great on this
bike) then the first choice should be Paul's Racer Ms, unless you are
really up for scouring the internet for old school and using a
crescent wrench to set them up.

Bars are pretty personal but very few people have ever been
disappointed with the noodle shape.  Nitto Pearl or Tech. delux stem.
If you search around you can find lighter, silver posts than Nitto,
but they are good posts.

Saddle, if you want to safe some weight, consider a Terry Ti-Fly.  A
good compromise between a Brooks or Selle Anatomica and a full blown
racing saddle.

Pedals, a light weight touring pedal - I like the Speed Play Frogs,
which work well with my Keen Commuter sandals.

I have my Ramboulliet set up as a go fast, here's what it looks like:

http://gallery.me.com/mhechmer#100094

Most important of all:  ENJOY THE PROCESS; ITS NOT ABOUT GETTING
ANYWHERE!

blessings,
michael



On Mar 28, 2:20 pm, Bike Hermit 
wrote:
> 
>
> 
> How would you build it?

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[MichaelH]

Joe, my hat's off to you.  A 53/12 which is pretty much the stock
racing gear is 119 GI; while a 50/11 is 122 GI.  I'm old and decrepit
but 108 GI (48/12; 52/13; 44/11) is all I really need to launch me off
a Vermont mountaintop.  At the other end I find a 34/27 (34 GI is OK
most days), but when I head over to my sisters house, which includes 4
miles of 12% grade up White Face Mt., I need every gear I can get and
still end up begging god for mercy.

michael

On Mar 28, 3:44 pm, Joe Bartoe  wrote:
> Geez Michael,
>
> Could you be a bit more specific?
>
> Great answer. I agree with most of what you said, but have some problems with 
> the smallish big ring you propose. I experimented with smaller big rings for 
> a while and found that I did indeed miss my 50/11 gear. It's nice to keep 
> your legs moving after a long climb and many times the smaller big ring would 
> spin out. I usually run a 50/34 with an 11/28. I find that the only time I 
> really drop down to my small ring is on extended climbs. I know this will 
> vary by riding style, but thought I'd give my two cents.
>
> BTW, I'd set it up with the '11 Campy Veloce with compact crank set. You'd 
> have to forego the brakes for the Roadeo, but maybe the Velo Orange Grand Cru 
> brakes might be a good substitution.
>
> Joe
>
>
>
> > Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 12:14:59 -0700
> > Subject: [RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?
> > From: mhech...@gmail.com
> > To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
>
> > Great question.  I am going to assume that this is a go-fast bike,
> > built for fast club rides and maybe an occasional rondenee, yes?
>
> > For a drive train you will want a nice compact double, like the better
> > Sugino Alpina, or the Da Vinci, unless you have you heart set on a
> > TA.  A 48/34 mated to a Hyperglide 12/27 cassette gives .  If you need
> > or want a lower gear (I do) I would strongly recommend springing for
> > the White VBC, which is a beautiful crank and you can set it up as a
> > 44/30 with an 11-28 cassette for an excellent gear range and shift
> > pattern.  Still cheaper than TA & musa.  For BB anything economical
> > will do, and for this bike i would definitely not go PW.
>
> > Wheels - Open Pro rims mated to either White or Ultegra hubs,
> > depending on whether you prefer sealed or serviceable bearings.  I
> > like the White hubs - lighter and cheaper than PW.  Some people find
> > them noisy, and they do have a loudish hum which you can hear when
> > coasting below 17/18 mph.
>
> > Silver Down Tube shifters.  Faster than BE, cleaner looking than SIS
> > and in many situations, faster too. Least fussy shifters money can
> > buy.  If you have never used them you have nothing to loose but your
> > fear.
>
> > Aero levers mated to your hand size.  I like the fat Cane Creek/
> > Tecktro, but some people find the narrower 105's more to their
> > liking.  Brake caliper's depend on your fender choice.  If you are
> > putting a nice pair of Honjo Hammered (which would look great on this
> > bike) then the first choice should be Paul's Racer Ms, unless you are
> > really up for scouring the internet for old school and using a
> > crescent wrench to set them up.
>
> > Bars are pretty personal but very few people have ever been
> > disappointed with the noodle shape.  Nitto Pearl or Tech. delux stem.
> > If you search around you can find lighter, silver posts than Nitto,
> > but they are good posts.
>
> > Saddle, if you want to safe some weight, consider a Terry Ti-Fly.  A
> > good compromise between a Brooks or Selle Anatomica and a full blown
> > racing saddle.
>
> > Pedals, a light weight touring pedal - I like the Speed Play Frogs,
> > which work well with my Keen Commuter sandals.
>
> > I have my Ramboulliet set up as a go fast, here's what it looks like:
>
> >http://gallery.me.com/mhechmer#100094
>
> > Most important of all:  ENJOY THE PROCESS; ITS NOT ABOUT GETTING
> > ANYWHERE!
>
> > blessings,
> > michael
>
> > On Mar 28, 2:20 pm, Bike Hermit 
> > wrote:
> > > 
>
> > > 
> > > How would you build it?
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
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> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
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> > For more options, visit this group 
> > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[MichaelH]

No down tube shifters! Bummer. Why put together a classy classic and
leave off DT posts?  I guess Campy then, but I certainly wouldn't
spring for Record.  I will say the new Shimano RD 6700, which I now
have on my Ram is the smoothest RD I have ever used.  I admit that
even though over the years the Campy stuff I have owned has way
outperformed the Shimano stuff.

michael

On Mar 28, 4:32 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> The R doesn't have dt shifter braze ons -- perhaps that is why they will be
> fussy, That little detail apart, I think dt shifters would be the cat's
> pajamas or meow or whatever you like.
>
> On Mon, Mar 28, 2011 at 1:53 PM, Patrick in VT  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Mar 28, 3:14 pm, MichaelH  wrote:
>
> > > Silver Down Tube shifters.  Faster than BE, cleaner looking than SIS
> > > and in many situations, faster too. Least fussy shifters money can
> > > buy.
>
> > i think down tube shifters will actually be the most fussy shifters
> > money can buy for the Roadeo.
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
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> > For more options, visit this group at
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>
> --
> Patrick Moore
> Albuquerque, NM
> For professional resumes, contact
> Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[MichaelH]

I run Ritchey Race Slicks on my old racing bike.  Affordable and
reasonably durable.  I do however sense the bike handling is quicker
than 23mm Michelin clinchers and certainly a lot quicker than my Ram
with good 28s.

It is surprising how fast wheel weight can build up though.  Yesterday
I realized that, having retired from work and commuting, that I no
longer needed the MA 40's and 38MM Avocets on my All Purpose Ebisu, so
decided to throw on a set of wheels with Open Pro Rims and 32 MM
Pasellas.  I did a before and after weighing on a bathroom scale and
was amazed to see a 1 1/2 lb difference.

Michael

On Apr 2, 2:31 pm, Bike Hermit  wrote:
> Charlie, I actually have a set of Mavic Reflex tubular rims I have
> thought about building for this bike. I'd like to find some smooth
> tread 700 x 28 tubular tires though.
>
> On Mar 28, 8:41 pm, charlie  wrote:
>
>
>
> > As a limited use "racer" all Campy with gearing set up for you and
> > tubular rims/ tires maybe some Tufo tires eh ? As a practical bike for
> > faster rides that still allows for bad weather and luggage. Nitto it
> > out and use a compact crank with at least a 28 to 30 tooth rear...plus
> > hammered fenders because they are pretty. Silver parts for sure either
> > way. You have to be a lightweight for this bike so I can't own one but
> > the thought is nice. Have fun with it !
>
> > On Mar 28, 11:20 am, Bike Hermit 
> > wrote:
>
> > > 
>
> > > 
> > > How would you build it?

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[RBW] Re: Riding the Atlantis

[MichaelH]

I have no experience with the Atlantis, but it's certainly on my
bucket list.  If anyone has a used 62-4 frame in any condition; I'm
interested.

That said, I agree with Jim, that it is easy to overstate this front
vs rear loading thing.  In 30+ years of riding I haven't found all
that much difference.  I have tried to add weight to the front end of
too quick bikes, but it did not help or hurt handling.

I have a strong preference for carrying as much stuff as possible
above my fenders so prefer HB bags and even large (Nelson LF) saddle
bags. I know I can get enough weight - like computers and stuff - into
a saddle bag to noticeably affect handling, but I tend to prefer that
to arriving home with muddy panniers.

Michael

On Apr 5, 11:05 am, Khalid Mateen  wrote:
> Morning Everyone:
>
> I know that the Atlantis is design for rear loading more than front loading
> but do any of you guys fight with the instability of front loading on a
> Atlantis?
>
> Thanks
>
> K.

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[RBW] Re: Riv Rally East Countdown - Only 4 weeks away!!!

[MichaelH]

Really wish I could do this but a long term commitment stands in the
way.  Be sure to post pics and a ride report.
michael

On Apr 9, 4:10 pm, Montclair BobbyB  wrote:
> Riv Rally East is nearly upon us!  All are welcome to join us, not
> just Riv owners (Fri night, May 6 through Sun May 8 in Wellsboro PA /
> Pine Creek Gorge).  If you haven't already, you will need to make
> hotel reservations soon...  The link again to the Sherwood Motel 
> iswww.sherwoodmotel.org.  The link to the Wellsboro lodging site 
> ishttp://www.wellsboroweb.com/wwdirectory/lodging.shtml.  And if you
> want to know more about the rides in the area, here's the link to a
> great website, with LOTS of information, including links to Wellsboro
> information:http://pinecreekbikerides.com/.
>
> I'll post more detailed info in the coming weeks on exact meeting
> times, planned routes, etc., but for now the planned agenda is:
>
> Fri May 6 - Arrive Wellsboro (I plan to arrive late afternoon/early
> evening).  I will be staying at the Sherwood.
> Sat May 7 - Meet at Wellsboro Village Green (time TBD), embark on 41
> mile grand loop of the Pine Creek Gorge.
> Sat evening - Eat, drink and be merry
> Sun May 8 - Meet at Wellsboro Village Green (time TBD), choose one of
> several nice area loops (I will choose a shorter 20-30 mile loop); we
> can remain together as one big ride, or split into smaller groups.
> Sun afternoon - Depart Wellsboro
>
> The size of our group (ie folks who either confirmed, or expressed a
> strong interest) is roughly 30 strong!!!
>
> BULLETIN BOARD:
>
> Noah Schabacker from NYC is looking for a ride to the Rally.  Anyone
> from NYC with room for Noah?  Noah, you're welcome to drive with me if
> you can make it out to New Brunswick or Princeton NJ (by train?).
> Anyone who can help out Noah, please contact him at
> iprufr...@gmail.com
>
> Anne Paulson and any other out of town travelers considering being
> East for the Rally, let me know if you are planning to join, and if
> you need a ride from the NJ area.  Also please let me know if you need
> a bike (or feel free to bring your folding bike).  There was at least
> one person on this forum who indicated a willingness to offer up one
> of his Rivs for someone who needs a bike.  I have a few non-Riv (but
> very Riv-ish) bikes I am also happy to loan.
>
> Michael Hechmer - I don't think there's camping in the immediate
> vicinity of Wellsboro; but check out the Wellsboro lodging link above
> for potential leads... Hotel/B&B will be you best bet, I'm afraid.
>
> GRANT P and the RIV FOLKS in Walnut Creek:  While it may not be
> practical, we'd sure love to have you join us for the rally.  If
> there's any chance any one of you is interested, I'm confident we can
> arrange for a bike and to get you hooked up with ground
> transportation.  If interested, kindly let me know.
>
> FINALLY - Anyone else doing the NYC Five Boro Tour on May 1?  (Please
> let me know).
>
> Peace,
> BB

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[RBW] Re: Dang-- My 64cm Atlantis Was Stolen

[MichaelH]

Jordan, not much I can do from Vermont, but I am sorry about the loss
of your bike.  I'm also sorry about the inevitable loss of trust and
security.

I think I would notify both police stations and bike shops throughout
the bay area. Often the people who end up with good bikes don't have
any idea what they have and go to a bike shop asking rudimentary
questions, like how do you use a presta valve.

I hope you get your bike back.

michael

On Apr 10, 10:42 pm, Jordan  wrote:
> Hey friends,
>
> I wanted to spread the word about my stolen Atlantis. It was stolen in
> San Francisco, but then spotted at the Oakland Coliseum Swap Meet.
> Unfortunately, someone got to it there before me and it was sold (sans
> Sackville Sacks) for $280 there to someone who I believe was going to
> resell it (I was told he wasn't tall).
>
> Riv has my proof of purchase and I have the serial number, so I'm
> hoping it will show up soon since the frame is so noticeable. I'm
> hoping you can help me keep an eye out around the Bay area. Can you
> let me know if you see a big Atlantis? Maybe ask the owner if they
> recently purchased it second hard. If so would they be willing to
> contact me?
>
> I can be reached at prospir...@gmail.com.
>
> -I've been posting on 
> craigslist:http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/2307503750.html
> -I have reported the incident to the police
> -Here's a cool shot of of the bike by the Presidio pet 
> cemetery:http://www.flickr.com/photos/jibbah/5011167058/sizes/l/in/photostream/
>
> Thanks so much and happy riding!
>
> Jordan

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[RBW] Re: Yoke height for Racer Centerpull brakes

[MichaelH]

I think you guys are making this way more complicated and confusing
than it needs to be.

If you want to lift something with a cable it is best to pull it in
exactly the direction you want it to move.So a long and nearly
vertical arm, like the neo-retros move upward in a wider, flatter arc
and therefore need a higher cable set pretty close to 90 degrees to
lift the arm upward.   A lower profile like the Shimano brake moves
more inward in a narrower arch and so will work better with a shorter
cable, also set close to 90 degrees.  I'm not staring at my neo-retros
right now, but I believe Paul recommends a 6" high straddle and I
believe that is about where mine is set.  They work great.  I also
have both the Racers (on a my tandem) and the Racer Ms on my
Rambouillet.  You will get a pretty good angle at about 4" on these.
That is where mine are set and they work quite well.

michael


On Apr 13, 2:28 am, Jeremy Till  wrote:
> Rene, have you read Sheldon's article on cantilever geometry?
>
> http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html#mechanical (links to
> the section on mechanical advantage)
>
> Of course, the specifics of the article are about cantilevers, but the
> information about straddle cable height should be pretty much the same
> for centerpull calipers.
>
> The truth is, I don't think there is one "optimal" MA setting for
> these types of brakes, it really comes down to the vagaries of your
> personal setup and your own preferences in how your brakes feel.
> Sheldon points out that the normal instincts of brake feel, coming
> from cars--that a firm, stiff response in the lever is optimal--
> doesn't necessarily lead to the best brake set up here.
>
> MA is basically the ratio of distances traveled between lever and
> pad.  At higher MA's, the lever is traveling much farther than the pad
> is, and thus it can feel "spongy" and worrisome.  However, if you
> think about it, high MA means that all that distance being traveled by
> the lever is turning into clamping force at the rim, just like when
> you use a simple lever and fulcrum, you push the lever a much greater
> distance than the load, but produce a greater force than you could
> unaided.  Thus, "spongy" feeling levers can actually produce
> prodigious stopping power, and have great modulation.  However, with
> too much MA the lever can bottom out on the handlebars.   Lower MA's,
> conversely, feel firmer at the lever and prevent the lever bottoming
> out on the bar, but you will need to squeeze the lever harder within
> that smaller range in order to produce the same stopping power as
> before.  So some of it comes down to hand strength, some to how your
> lever interacts with the curve of your bars, and some to how you want
> the lever to feel when you pull back on it.
>
> I would set the MA as high as is possible while maintaining what feels
> to you like an okay range of motion for the lever, i.e. that doesn't
> risk bottoming out on the bars.  I took this to the extreme on a bike
> i recently sold.  It had a traditional medium-profile cantilever
> (single front brake on a fixed gear) and a nice old LX mtb (pre-v
> brake) lever.  I basically set the straddle cable in line with the
> bottom of the fork crown, so as low as it could go without affecting
> clearance.  The lever traveled relatively far, but MAN, could that
> thing stop--it shot me forward off the seat the first time i pulled
> it.
>
> On Apr 12, 9:37 pm, Rene Sterental  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Finally figured out how to use the calculator. However, while I can see the
> > MA go up or down, what is the optimal MA to strive for? I'm still
> > unsure, based on all I've read, whether a lower or a higher MA are better. I
> > thought I understood that lower MA meant more modulation but more force
> > needed to apply the brakes; also a spongier feeling at the lever. Higher MA
> > meant ligher snappier feeling that stops very quickly but looses modulation.
>
> > Is it then a matter of finding what you like or is there a number or setting
> > to go for?
>
> > René

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[RBW] Re: Downhill Leg

[MichaelH]

It's 35 degrees here, with a stiff wind and a mixture of rain and snow
going by the window. I can accept what is, but  I resist any urge to
go out on a bicycle.

Enjoy your ride, keep the rubber side down and
take care of Self, it's one of a kind and irreplaceable,
michael
Westford, Vt

On Apr 16, 12:39 pm, CycloFiend  wrote:
> Been doing the 30 Days of Biking challenge this month (30daysofbiking.com),
> and the miles have been exclusively Rivendell so far - split between the
> Hilsen and Quickbeam. Since yesterday's ride was 15 for 15, today's ride
> means there is now fewer than before.
>
> This act appealed to me for its simplicity - no logs to fill out, no big
> specific mileage commitment - just the idea that for the 30 days of April,
> I'd ride some distance every day, even if it was just around the block.
>
> Last month, like a lot of folks in this region, I got crushed by a nasty flu
> that had me off the bike for three weeks and pretty weak for a couple more.
> It got me thinking a bit, making me realize how easy it can be sometimes to
> take for granted the wonderous act of spinning a pedal, even if it's a
> wind-assisted roll at a lazy pace.
>
> Sometimes I've raced, sometimes I've aimed for a long distance number,
> sometimes I've loafed along and enjoyed the sun, hunkered down and cursed
> the wind or just tried to hang on until momentum rejoined me. But, they all
> now are memories which I appreciate and even relish.
>
> Biking is good, and even though we all find a myriad of ways to slice and
> dice, dissect and intellectualize it, the act of riding seems to always pay
> back such glorious dividends.
>
> Gonna have to roll out short today - ended up with a chunk more on the
> weekend task list than I'd planned, but the hum of the tires and the action
> of the legs will sustain me after I've returned.
>
> And a big thanks to Harry H, whose post reminded me to do this.
>
> - Jim
>
> --
> Jim Edgar
> cyclofi...@earthlink.net
>
> Could you take a moment to vote for me?
>
> I am entered in a audiobook contest which is initially determined by public
> voting - if you could go here -
>
> http://tinyurl.com/vote-jimedgar
>
> register on the Bookperk site and vote for my read 
> -http://tinyurl.com/vote-jimedgar- I'd really appreciate it.  You can vote
> one time each day until early May.  Vote early, vote often!
>
> Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: AMOS update

[MichaelH]

What baffles me about the second top tube on a road bike is what
problem it is trying to solve?  The Atlantis and bikes like the Co-
Motion Americano are plenty strong enough to load up and take on an
extended tour.  Maybe on a very large size, like 67, a second top tube
makes sense but it certainly seems like a beefier BB shell would
stiffen a bike frame more.  And why do we want a stiffer road frame
anyway?  Some flex makes a bike feel lively.  I find the comparison to
a Rambouillet confusing and maybe even misleading.  I own a 62 cm
Rambouillet and am certain that it would be less of what it was
intended to be if a 2nd TT were added. A version of the Atlantis with
a 2nd TT for extra heavy useage,...maybe, but not a Rambouillet.

I doubt that dbl TT makes sense even on a mt bike, but that is
debatable.  On a "road" bike  no way.

michael

On Apr 17, 10:13 am, Eric Daume  wrote:
> I haven't seen any mention of the Soma/Amos update on the Riv page:
>
> http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/knothole_post/349
>
> I was disappointed to hear this about the second top tube:
>
> *It is an "expanded" frame, meaning the top tube slopes up 6-degrees to
> assure good comfy highish handlebars even if you buy a bit too small. The
> first three sizes coming---by late May, we're told, but we are out of that
> loop---will be 54, 59, and 63. The two bigger have an undertube (second top
> tube), and the 54 won't. The other sizes are 47 and 51, and they'll come
> later and will fit 650B wheels.*
>
> I've been kind of debating this bike vs. the Rawland Nordavinden (if that
> one ever happens...), but, I'm sorry, I find this whole second top tube
> thing just silly, especially on a sporty road bike. No thanks.
>
> Eric
> Dublin, OH

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[RBW] Re: Bike Tour Stuff.

[MichaelH]

Personally, I'd leave the dog home, and spring for a lighter tent.
michael

On Apr 24, 1:24 am, manueljohnacosta 
wrote:
> Pictures proved that I packed 
> :http://www.flickr.com/photos/mannyacosta/sets/72157626439125925/
>
> On Apr 23, 10:21 pm, manueljohnacosta 
> wrote:
>
>
>
> > As I get ready to pack for my third bike tour. I start doing my
> > traditional pre-bike tour rituals.
> > I shave my mustache. (Something I'm not quite fond of doing. Because
> > it makes me look younger than I really I am.)
> > I lay out all my gear and take a picture. ( Because if you don't take
> > a picture of it. It never really happened)
> > Then I upload the picture. ( Because I'm vain.)
>
> > As I look at my previous pre-bike tour pictures I see the evolution of
> > gear as the time goes by. Starting from not knowing what to pack, to
> > packing too much and then not really caring what to pack. Not having a
> > scale but being a darn good guess-a-mater I'm putting the weight
> > between twenty to a hundred pounds.(Remember I'm a PE teacher not a
> > math teacher.)
> > Curious whats the average weight for packing for a nice tour?
> > -Manny

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[RBW] Re: Project bike will take Roly Poly tires.

[MichaelH]

Nice bike William. I like the way these older standard gage 531C ride
and hope it gives you a lot of joy.  Why struggle with a 24; why not
just go to a 27 or 28?

My winter project was rebuilding a 1984 Trek 620.  I spread the stays
just so I could go to a cassette with a 12 cog, which allows for a
smaller set of rings.  In this case 48/34/ 26.  But the 34/27 will
handle pretty much everything after some spring riding.
michael

On Apr 19, 4:01 pm, William  wrote:
> I'm well on my way to converting a 1984 Trek 770 into a retro-modern
> all road bike.  Two shortcomings of my current road bike (a Davidson
> Signature) were that it doesn't take a tire wider than 700x25, and
> that it fits like a racing bike.  I had it custom built in my youth,
> and so now to get the bars up I had to use a Technomic Deluxe which is
> excellent but I think it looks a little less than ideal to have a ton
> of seatpost and a ton of stem showing.  It makes the frame look too
> small.
>
> Anyway, this Trek is a couple cm taller than my Davidson, so I hope to
> get a similar fit with a regular proportioned stem.  I finished
> stripping the bike down, and I'll start selling off a lot of the Campy
> Super Record parts through the normal channels.  I got my compact
> double crankset, and I've secured a few freewheels for various gearing
> options.  The recent highlight is that I've confirmed that a 700x27
> Roly Poly will fit (no fender).  I'm thrilled about that, and it was
> something that I wasn't sure would work out.  If the bike turns out as
> well as I hope, I might get it powdercoated.  I bought some
> Resurrectio stickers from Riv on that chance.
>
> Riv content:  Higher bars, fearlessly riding a 30 year old lugged
> steel MUSA frameset, Roly Poly tires bought from Riv, not being retro
> for retros sake.
>
> Pics on my flickr:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/sets/72157626511175478/

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[RBW] Re: Lighter Wheel Set Question

[MichaelH]

The AHH was advertised as 135 when I considered buying one.  I was
surprised that GP moved away from the more versatile 132.5 of the
Rambouillet, which was "put to sleep" when the AHH was released.
Perhaps he thought the 135 fit the bikes image better.  I didn't have
any other bikes that took 135 and didn't want a  non- compatible wheel
set to deal with, along with the brakes, that was a deal breaker for
me.

I would recommend to the OP having the stays reset to 132.5 and using
either set of wheels at will.

michael

On May 4, 2:36 am, CycloFiend  wrote:
> on 5/3/11 9:03 PM, Joe Bartoe at jbar...@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> Hi Bruce,
>
> The AHHs are supposed to have 132.5 spacing. Unless you've altered that, you
> should be able to use 130 OLD wheels just fine. I did that on mine.
>
> My aught-eight model has 135, dead-on.
>
> - J
>
> --
> Jim Edgar
> cyclofi...@earthlink.net

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[RBW] Re: Hillborne for the hills?

[MichaelH]

Well Tia, Ernest Hemingway once said, "Never trust an adjective."  Or
as Paul Simon put it, "One man's ceiling is another man's floor."  So
one riders "sluggish" is another riders roadrunner.  I find my
Rambouillet very zippy and  very much like my '88 Marinoni, which
carries World Championship stripes. That said, someone with 10% body
fat and used to a 16 lb CF frame would probably find them both
sluggish.

The LHT was never intended to be zippy on hills; it's designed to be
stable and comfortable, with or without a load.  It is a low cost, tig
welded version of the Atlantis.  I suspect you will find the  SH more
zippy than the LHT, but if you are used to a full fledged, unloaded
road bike, like a Rambouillet,  then you should be prepared for some
trade off for the added stability and load carrying capacity.

My favorite commuter / touring bike is my Ebisu All Purpose which has
geometry and steel similar to the SH. With 35 mm tires it is not too
zippy going up hill, but on the other hand it will climb straight up a
10% grade between parked cars and passing traffic without raising my
BP two points.  Probably if I put lighter, narrower wheels & tires on,
it would be more zippy and less stable. I am blessed, so when I want
that zip I can go full out and jump on my beloved Ram.

Bottom line, no one bike can be best at everything but as GP says, the
modern ultra zippy bike has become a one trick pony.  Decide what's
really important and what isn't.  In the end, happiness is wanting
what you have not having what you want, because the ego likes wanting
more than it likes having and that truly is the endless uphill
struggle.

michael
in rainy, flooded northern Vermont

On May 4, 10:53 am, TSW  wrote:
> Hi all,
> I'wayve searched all over forum archives and can't seem to find much
> discussion on this question: how does the Sam climb?
>
> I'm very close to pulling the trigger on a 52 (ideally I'd ride a 54,
> and 56 is just a tad too big), my 26 yr old Trek 560 ready to retire,
> and I'm used to a more aggressive geometry for climbing the hills
> around here.  I'll need to to test ride a Sam again, as Riv HQ isn't
> too handy to a steep hill.  I took out a Surly LHT (52/26 in) recently
> up a fairly steep hill and found it sluggish.
>
> But in the meantime, I wonder what're folks' thoughts on how the Sam
> does on hills.
>
> TIA,
> TS
> Berkeley

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[RBW] Re: Fwd: RR43 Link Update

[MichaelH]

I could live without downloading but even magnified the print is too
small to read.  Has anyone tried printing it?  It looks like a great
issue.
michael

On May 4, 8:12 pm, "Bill Gibson (III)"  wrote:
> My inability to download it, etc. will motivate me to pay for a print copy!
> They deserve it, anyway.
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Rivendell Bicycle Works 
> Date: Wed, May 4, 2011 at 4:43 PM
> Subject: RR43 Link Update
> To: Bill 
>
>       Use this area to offer a short teaser of your email's content. Text
> here will show in the preview area of some email clients.
>   Is this email not displaying correctly?
> View it in your
> browser.
>
>       [image: Rivendell Bicycle Works] 
>        Rivendell Reader 43 Some users couldn't open the Reader link, so here
> it is again. Sorry for the dupe email.
>
> -Dave
>
> http://shade.keeptrees.com/publications/g30/TheRivendellReader/#page0
>
>           follow on Twitter
>  | friend
> on Facebook  | forward
> to a 
> friend
>
>    *Copyright © 2011 Rivendell Bicycle Works, All rights reserved.*
> You got this email cuz you are a paid-up current Rivendell member.
> *Our mailing address is:*
> Rivendell Bicycle Works
> 2040 N. Main St.
> #19
> Walnut Creek, CA 94596
>
> Add us to your address
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> --
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> Tempe, Arizona, USA

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[RBW] Re: Fwd: RR43 Link Update

[MichaelH]

I found when I opened up to full page and hit the magnifying button
the file became  readable.  But it acts funny.   Two fingers on the
pad activates the magnification instead of the scroll.  One finger
scrolls the screen.  I found myself inadvertently jumping all over the
place.

michael

On May 5, 1:43 am, CycloFiend  wrote:
> Print as a pdf, if you are on a Mac.
>
> May be a similar option in the  world-o-windows.
>
> - Jim
>
> on 5/4/11 5:12 PM, Bill Gibson (III) at bill.bgib...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> My inability to download it, etc. will motivate me to pay for a print copy!
> They deserve it, anyway.

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[RBW] Stem Strength

[MichaelH]

The new RR contains an article by GP outlining his believes about
various aspects of  bike strength, comfort, weight, and comfort.
There wasn't much new there for anyone who has followed him for a few
years, including why he prefers threaded headsets and stems, but it
did trigger this question from me.

My son, who is 39 years old and a very muscular 170 lbs claims that
he experiences stem flex while climbing with a traditional quill
stem.  I am always disinclined to challenge people's subjective
experience but I have never experienced this and suspect it is in his
imagination.

Has anyone here felt their stem flex and has anyone ever broken a
stem?

michael

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[RBW] Re: Front derailer for 48-38-24: Shimano, Campy, IRD?

[MichaelH]

I run the campy racing triple on a 48/34/26 triple and a 44/30
double.  I works very well, much better than the 105's it replaced.
It has a very short cage, which allows it to be set very low without
interfering with the chain stay.

michael

On May 8, 4:57 pm, BCDrums  wrote:
> It's hard to know which derailer has a matching radius without being
> able to hold it up to the chainring. I'm beginning to lean to the IRD
> because it states that it is designed for the big ring I have. Other
> derailers just list a maximum ring size.
>
> BC
>
> On May 8, 9:37 am, Bill Lucas  wrote:
>
>
>
> > BC,
>
> > The IRD Aplina is not a copy of the Ultegra.
>
> > I used it to replace a 9-speed Ultegra on a 48-34-24 set up.  The
> > Ultegra was VERY fussy to get working.  I literally bolted the IRD in
> > place, adjusted the stops and it works perfectly.  All that said, I
> > tried one on my wife's new Ebisu All-Purpose and it didn't work well.
> > I played with it for a while.  I ended up changing it to a Shimano
> > FD-4403 Tiagra.  The Tiagra was modified to match the chainring
> > radius.  These are indexed bicycles.
>
> > You need to get a front derailleur that matches the chainring radius.
> > Sometimes it takes a swap ot two too get it right.
>
> > Bill
> > Watsonvillle, CA

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[RBW] Re: 600K Brevet

[MichaelH]

Eric, you edited out all the pain!  I kept waiting for the part where
someone writhes on the ground with cramps in both thighs and
hamstrings simultaneously.

We'll all be pulling for you in Paris.  If MBM ever happens again,
I'll look forward to meeting you, even if I am neither capable nor
desirous of such long rides ( I max out at 200K & 2 mt. passes when
I'm at my best)

congratulations,
michael

On May 9, 9:17 pm, Eric Norris  wrote:
> Riding on lugged steel with friction shifting!  My video of this weekend's 
> brevet from San Francisco to Fort Bragg and back.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sW3OfkYeo2Q
>
> --Eric
> campyonly...@me.comwww.campyonly.comwww.wheelsnorth.org

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[RBW] Re: Friday the 13th

[MichaelH]

Thanks for sharing the photos, very nicely done.  I especially liked
the moon shots.  Life is good, even when our life situation isn't; but
going for a good ride always helps that.

peace,
michael

On May 14, 2:32 am, manueljohnacosta 
wrote:
> With the dread of losing my job hanging over my head and my lost
> wallet somewhere in Milpitas I find it amazing that I can brighten up
> my mood with just a simple bike ride home.
>
> Pictures proved that I like taking 
> pictures:http://www.flickr.com/photos/mannyacosta/sets/72157626591058217/
>
> -Manny "My Middle name is bad luck" Acosta

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[RBW] Re: A Little More Vanilla

[MichaelH]

Very nice.  I'll bet you waited a long time for it, which adds to the
sweetness for sure.  I was intrigued by the shifter cable routing and
look forward to reading how that works out, in terms of both shifting
performance and comfort.  It certainly looks a lot neater tha my usual
routing just under the front rack.

I hope Seattle isn't getting as much rain as VT this Spring or you
will be wishing for fenders. (assuming anyway that you are somewhere
Seattle)

Michael

On May 14, 8:32 pm, reynoldslugs  wrote:
> Fat Tire Flyer; very nice climber, fabulous on steep twisty descents
> on awful pavement. Love the Paul M-Racers and the Jack Browns
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/41563482@N06/sets/72157626721226882/

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[RBW] Re: Durability and function

[MichaelH]

I think he got it exactly wrong.  Commuting to work on a CF frame is a
fashion statement that trumps reason.

I once considered buying a CF fork for my '88 Marinoni stage racing
frame.  On the way out of the bike shop parking lot, while I was
diligently watching traffic, my front wheel went down into an old
fashion storm grate. I went over the handle bars, then reached up and
caught my bike before it landed on me.  I then got up and rode fifteen
miles home on my steel fork without a worry in the world.  I haven't
given a thought to a CF fork since.

Michael

On May 14, 6:59 pm, scott  wrote:
> I don't care one way or another about the Carbon Fiber issue. But, in
> a recent thread I spotted this quote that I have been thinking about:
>
> .there is nothing wrong with
> steel bicycle frames or the people who ride them, like them, or make
> them. I
> just proposed to the frame builder list here that steel bikes must be
> considered as a fashion decision. This is not a put down at all. Lots
> to
> things from the past have value but are not very commercially viable.
> Vinyl
> records, film cameras, mechanical watches, steel bike frames all have
> their
> place with a small fanatic following."
>
> I don't know about "Fashion Decision," but I have vinyl records that
> are 50+ years old that still play great. I had an Ipod that sh@t out
> on me after being left in the cold and CD's that skip even though I
> try to take good care of them. My film camera has been repaired and
> should last another 20 years hopefully, yet my first digital camera
> didn't last two years. I have a tube guitar amp that sounds fantastic
> that is 40 years old and has been repaired. My pops recently left me
> his 1928 Gibson mandolin that was once run over by a car (the
> headstock needed repair) that sounds better than any mandolin I've
> ever heard. These things are metaphors for handmade steel bicycle
> frames I suppose. But I hope that in fifty years my Sam Hilborne (yet
> to be delivered) will be around with the mandolin and tube amp.
>
>    Scott

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[RBW] Re: Marathon Racer vs Ruffy Tuffy

[MichaelH]

I run the racers (26x1.6) on my tandem and have run the ruffy-tuffy on
my Ram, so it is impossible to compare the ride but the racers do seem
more puncture resistant with tougher sidewalls.  I found the r-ts to
be a pretty good all around tire on the Ram but have moved to sportier
selections since I mostly  use the Ram for longer joy rides.

michael

On May 15, 8:23 am, Forrest  wrote:
> Any experiences and/or preferences on the Ruffy Tuffy versus Marathon
> Racer 700x30c? I am thinking of going with one or the other on my Riv
> LongLow (geometry and clearances similar to Rambouillet). Thanks.  --
> Forrest

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

[MichaelH]

You don't say where the bars sit in relation to the saddle.   If they
are more than a cm below the saddle, then you should certainly
consider raising the bars.  This will also bring them back toward you,
so you might consider an 11, instead of a 10 cm stem.  This will bring
the drops closer to you.

michael

On May 15, 7:36 pm, Zaelia  wrote:
> Discussing bicycles in particular; it has been my experience that
> there are a lot of strong opinions out there about what is right or
> optimum. Personally, I think that it is whatever works for the
> individual. There are so many styles and purposes of riding, it's not
> hard to see that a one-fits-all formula isn't possible, even though I
> sometimes wish someone could just give me a magic number and
> everything would click into place.
>
> Next, I guess I have to admit that a lot of this stuff is Greek to me.
> I'm learning, but it's slow going.
>
> So with that in mind...
>
> I've been to my LBS for a bike fitting (a multi-visit process) and we
> first took care of the basics, pedals and saddle. Things have
> improved. I have almost no hand or foot tingles any more, and knee
> pain is gone, for example, but I'm still experiencing shoulder and
> neck pain. I definitely feel as though I'm bunched up up top, like my
> shoulders are too close to my ears. In a recent visit, we determined
> that to start I should get a longer stem. Currently, my Hilsen has an
> 8 cm (80 mm) Nitto Technomic stem. It was suggested that, without
> changing my handlebars, I get a 10 cm (100 mm) stem.
>
> It was also suggested I get a handlebar that has a medium to shallow
> drop since I admitted to almost never riding in the drops because it
> feels too uncomfortable. I've got a 42 cm (420 mm) Nitto 115. The
> fitter, very keen for me to get an anatomic bar that he thought was
> perfect for me, pulled out a black aluminum bar and repeatedly told me
> that I would not find anything like this in the "retro style". I
> suppose he meant the angular or shaped-curve drops of the anatomic
> bars, but I also had the feeling he was saying I wouldn't find
> anything with a medium to shallow drop.
>
> At home on my computer, I looked at various Nitto handlebars on a
> couple of websites (Riv, Peter White, and Harris Cyclery) and I saw,
> for example, that the Nitto 135 Randonneur has a shallower drop at 120
> mm compared to my 115 at 140 mm. It has a slightly longer reach at 105
> mm compared to my 100 mm, but has basically a "similar construction
> and finish to model 115" (Harris Cyclery). I'm assuming this "similar
> construction" means it has a 25.4 mm center as well, though the
> website does not specify.
>
> So, I'm thinking about getting the Randonneur bars and trying them out
> with the new, longer stem. I'll get the improved reach with the longer
> stem and a shallower drop for better shifting and increased options
> for hand positions.
>
> The last thing is handlebar width. I've read quite a bit about going
> for a wider handlebar width. Again, the fitter had different ideas.
> Ironically, he could see how maybe my working at a computer for many
> hours a day could cause some back problems but did not see that having
> a narrow (shoulder width) bar could do the same. The Nitto 135
> Randonneur only comes in 2 sizes on the Harris Cyclery website (42 and
> 45 cm), so that helps a little. So maybe I'll just throw all my chips
> in and get the 45 cm... ?
>
> Well. I'm not sure why I wrote all this. I guess I'm hoping someone
> will read it and offer their thoughts and/or experiences. I'd be
> interested to read what others have to say.
>
> Thanks,
> Zaelia

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[RBW] Re: silver shifter washers

[MichaelH]

I would have sworn that my shifters came with both styles.  In any
case I would expect any good bike shop, or Riv, has a pair of these in
its spare parts drawer, that not that rare since they were on
virtually every road bike, with bar ends, sold for many decades.
There's more than one size floating around out there and shops that
service older bikes are sure to end up with them.

michael


On May 17, 10:20 am, jandrews_nyc  wrote:
> I should've read the posts regarding this before I purchased SIlver
> downtube shifters to use with my Shimano bar end shifter pods.
> As many of you know the shifters come with a round washer with a
> square hole that has a little tab on it that acts as a shifter stop
> when mounted on a downtube boss.
> But..it seems nobody sells the round washers with the square hole
> WITHOUT the tab.
> I could grind it down, but does anyone know how to get the correct
> washers without purchasing the bar end shifters?
> thanks
> Jason

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[RBW] Re: Cycling Breeks aka knickers

[MichaelH]

I can certainly see the practicality of knickers,but.., I'm just
not man enough!
michael

On May 18, 8:53 am, "Scott G."  wrote:
> Found this on the CTC list, proper cycling attire for gentlefolk.
> Just the source for CTC re-enactors, tweed runners and the Lake Pepin
> faithful.
>
> https://www.spencers-trousers.com/index.php
> Look under breeks and in special instructions
> specify they are for cycling.
>
> Made in Yorkshire.

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[RBW] Re: Knickers, morphed to Rain Gear

[MichaelH]

It is raining again... or maybe still,,. here in N. VT this morning.
I have a very nice Showers Pass rain jacket, but it's only wearable
below 65.  I'm considering a rain cape.  Can anyone suggest a good,
breathable rain jacket that works in warmer weather?

Michael

On May 19, 1:40 am, Jim Cloud  wrote:
> Also found on the CTC list, this might interest those of you living in
> rainy climes (I wouldn't have a great deal of use for one living in
> arid 
> Tucson):http://www.hilltrek.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_Cycling_Double_Ventile_Jac...
>
> This is a modern version of the much beloved Greenspot jacket often
> worn by the CTC set.  Obviously not cheap, but as the saying goes...
> ("You get what you pay for..").
>
> Jim Cloud
> Tucson, AZ
>
> On May 18, 5:53 am, "Scott G."  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Found this on the CTC list, proper cycling attire for gentlefolk.
> > Just the source for CTC re-enactors, tweed runners and the Lake Pepin
> > faithful.
>
> >https://www.spencers-trousers.com/index.php
> > Look under breeks and in special instructions
> > specify they are for cycling.
>
> > Made in Yorkshire.

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[RBW] Re: Herse in just-about final form

[MichaelH]

Understated Elegance!  Happy Trails.
michael,
take care of Self; it's one of a kind and irreplaceable

On May 18, 9:08 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/HerseComplete051811?authkey=Gv...
>
> Rivendell-esque if not Rivendellian.
>
> --
> Patrick Moore
> Albuquerque, NM
> For professional resumes, contact
> Patrick Moore, ACRW
> patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com
>
> A billion stars go spinning through the night
> Blazing high above your head;
> But in you is the Presence that will be
> When all the stars are dead.
> (Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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[RBW] Re: Anything look odd on this Ram?

[MichaelH]

The frame looks to be in good condition, but the sloppy work on the
bars would lead me to take a hard look at the rest of the components
and maintenance.  But ultimately it's more about a fair price, than it
is about whether its a good bike.  If it fits your body & goals, go
for it.

michael

On May 20, 1:51 pm, Daniel  wrote:
> I've been looking at look at this Ram on 
> Craigslist:http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/bik/2388442830.html
>
> The cable routing, handlebars and tape are all bugging me, but I'm on
> the fence about going to see it anyway.
>
> What do y'all think?
>
> Daniel

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[RBW] Re: Bar end shifter pod question

[MichaelH]

I can't think of any reason the shifter should be affected.  The "pod"
consists of an insert to which a post get attached.  The shifter
mounts on the post, just as it is on a down tube.  I'll bet someone at
Riv has tried this combo, so you can call and ask when you order them.
michael

On May 21, 11:11 pm, "E.Mann"  wrote:
> Here is the story:  About a month ago I gave my mom a mid-80's Miyata
> 615 all country'd out with big tires, dirt drop stem, moustache bars,
> and fenders as a Mother's day present.  She absolutely loves it and
> has been riding it a lot, but wants the shifters (downtube) up higher
> somewhere on the bars.  Insert the bar end shifter pods from Riv.
>
> The downtube shifters are Shimano 6-speed indexed/friction.  The
> indexed shifting is excellent and I was hoping to retain the indexing
> after mounting to the Riv bar-end pods.  Is the indexing function
> retained when using these shifter pods?  Or will they be friction only
> upon mounting as bar-end?  I ask because one of the awesome local bike
> shops has a pair of Suntour micro-ratchet bar-ends in the used parts
> file cabinet.  These probably would work better - and for the same
> price - if the conversion using the Riv shifter pods makes them
> friction only.
>
> Thanks in advance for any insight.
>
> Eric
> MPLS, MN

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[RBW] Re: Torque Spec's

[MichaelH]

I have found that as I have aged I am more likely to under tighten
allen bolts when using hand held keys.  I've gone to a torque wrench
just to give myself the extra leverage, although I suppose 3/8 ratchet
driver would also provide that.

michael

On May 22, 12:14 pm, Eric Norris  wrote:
> According to Sheldon Brown,  "... Torque wrenches are never needed for 
> bicycle work."
>
> Here's the full entry fromhttp://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ta-o.html
> Torque Wrench
>
> A "torque wrench" is a type of wrench with a built-in spring-loaded indicator 
> that gives a numerical readout of the amount of torque being applied through 
> it.
> This is primarily an automotive tool, especially useful for applications 
> involving crushable gaskets which must be tightened evenly.
>
> Torque wrenches are never needed for bicycle work, although they can be a 
> useful training aid for inexperienced mechanics who haven't learned the feel 
> of a properly-tightened fastener.
>
> [I find this generally to be true, but many bicycle components now are 
> accompanied with spec sheets with lists of torque settings. There are two 
> reasons for this:
>
> Consultants to attorneys measure torque values, leading to an excess of 
> caution by the manufacturers
> Some components made of unusual materials (carbon fiber seatposts, aluminum 
> bolts) require lower torque settings than for other parts of the same general 
> type.
> This paragraph added by John Allen]
>
> --Eric
> campyonly...@me.comwww.campyonly.comwww.wheelsnorth.org
>
> On May 22, 2011, at 9:07 AM, Ray wrote:
>
>
>
> > Can anyone furnish me with a link, or otherwise inform me what the
> > torque spec is on a Nitto stem. On that subject, I would like info on
> > steel bike torque spec's in general.
>
> > Thank you, all.
>
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[RBW] Re: Rust on Chain Stay

[MichaelH]

You didn't say what kind of shifters you are using, but from other
info I presume it is a friction system.  That's good because they are
much easier to adjust, and fixing the derailler should be done before
bothering to try and repair the chainstay.  Set the chain on the
biggest cog and the smallet ring and adjust the limit screw so the
chain just barely clears the inside of the derailler, no more than
0.5mm.  Your pedal stroke will tend to pull the chain away from
contact there.  Then, the first couple of time you ride, carry a small
screwdriver and if you find the chain doesn't want to drop down, open
the screw up 1/8 of a turn.  Unless the limit screw is moving that
should fix the problem.

Pulling a crank looks more intimidating than it is.  But given that
you don't have any tools you might consider going to a bike shop and
having them install self extracting bolts.  These can be removed with
a 6 mm allen key.  If you don't want to do that you will need an
extractor, and either an 8 mm allen key or bolt wrench, depending on
the crank design.  If you have an octalink crank you will also need a
small plug that goes between the extractor and the crank.  Remove the
chain, take out the bolt with the 8 mm key, thread the extractor into
the crank, then turn the extractor into the crank with a 15 mm(??)
wrench.

When you reinstall, grease the crank, and then tighten down the bolts
really good; at the least you'll want an allen key that gives you some
leverage.

Be not afraid.

michael

On May 24, 9:48 pm, Joe S  wrote:
> I've had my Atlantis about 10 months and love it.  I ride it nearly
> every day, usually on my 30 mile round-trip commute to and from work.
>
> When I first rode the bike, the low stop setting on the front
> derailleur was not set correctly.  It took throwing the chain off onto
> the chain stay with minor jamming a few times before I realized what
> was happening and the paint on the chain stay was taken off in a swath
> of about 1/2 inch.  I haven't done anything to it other than to keep
> checking (duh!) but now after a few weeks of bad timing and riding in
> rain, I can see rust on the surface.  There isn't a lot of room
> between the crank, chain stay and frame in this vicinity and I'm
> thinking that to really get at the rust I would need to remove the
> crank.  I don't mind giving this a shot, but will need to get a crank
> puller and since I'm planning to tour on the bike in a month, I don't
> want to get in a position where I'm getting tools, doing something new
> and become pressed to get everything back and road tested with a
> deadline looming.  What is the best way to contain the rust?  Can it
> be done without removing the crank (at least for now)?
>
> BTW, it seems to me that the high / low stop settings are very
> sensitive as I had the chain and cassette replaced recently at my
> LBS.  I wound up throwing the chain several times on my first ride
> after getting the bike back, roughing up my nice polished crank.  This
> time it was the high setting that I needed to adjust.  It seems to be
> set correctly now but is this a configuration problem--I have a Campy
> triple on the front and Shimano XT long cage on the rear?  I recall
> reading somewhere (Sheldon Brown?) that these screws should not be
> loose--they are loose but not excessively so and they seem to stay
> once set correctly?  Is blue lock-tite a recommended solution?
>
> Thanks for your advice.
>
> Joe

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[RBW] Re: bike shop recommendation in Chattanooga?

[MichaelH]

I don't know much about Chattanooga, but was there for a couple of
days in late winter.  It seemed like a great town and very bike
friendly. I'd do a web search and look for some place near that
focuses on service, and also for a local bike club.

michael

On May 25, 3:48 pm, "J. Burkhalter"  wrote:
> howdy girls and guys,
>
> I will be in Chattanooga, TN next week building up a Betty Foy for my
> GF, and I'm looking for a friendly LBS in town for the those small
> parts and/or tools I will invariably forget to pack and a shop for any
> future maintenance/repairs that she's not interested in doing
> herself.  Something in the North Chatt/North Shore area possibly?
>
> And on the off chance anyone lives in the area and has a bike work
> stand that you wouldn't mind loaning out for a day I would gladly
> exchange some tasty locals ales for its use.
>
> thanks!
> -Jay B

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[RBW] Low Rider Rack recommendations

[MichaelH]

I am looking for a silver, front, low rider rack that will at least
somewhat match the Mark's mini on the front of my 26" wheeled tandem.
So far I have found a $55 no name and the Nitto Campee for $229, which
would replace the mini.  I know that Tubus makes the Tara in silver,
but it is not imported into this country and the Nova in stainless for
$176.  Any other options?  Or does anyone have a used one they would
like to part with?

michael,
take care of Self; it's one of a kind and irreplaceable

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[RBW] Re: Overtaking Motor Vehicles on a Bicycle

[MichaelH]

Depends on whether there is a bike lane / or significant shoulder
(which are technically & legally different here); and whether or not
the cars are moving.  In a bike lane it is legal and reasonably safe
to pass on the right.  Without a lane I will pass a long line of
stopped cars on the right, but generally wait if it's just a few
cars.  If there is no bike lane it is only legal & safe to pass on the
left.  I know that frightens most inexperienced riders, but it is the
best and only legal practice.  Presumably, all directions  need to be
reversed for UK and other places that drive, as my wife describes it,
"on the wrong side of the road."

Do you ask because you are planning to come here to cycle?  If so, it
would be great to read your post trip report.   My wife and I keep
talking about doing a cycling trip through the Cotswald Region.  We
should have done it this Spring, It couldn't possibly be rainier than
it has been here.

Michael,
Westford, Vt

On May 28, 3:07 am, Bob  wrote:
> Greetings from North Yorkshire.
>
> Was wondering yesterday:  What is the *legal* method for overtaking
> motor vehicles on a bicycle in the US? I've done it many times; I was
> just wondering if it was legal in America. Here in the UK,
> "filtering" (riding between lanes of traffic) is a way of life for
> motorcyclists and cyclists. I am aware that it is legal in California,
> but no other American state. We overtake cars on a bicycle or
> motorbike by passing on the right, in the same lane, if possible, but
> you can also ride for a bit in the oncoming traffic lane, if you dare.
>
> Cheers,
> Bob

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[RBW] Considering new pedals

[MichaelH]

About a decade ago I discovered Speedplay Frog Pedals and fell in love
with them.  I have recommended them to many people and everybody who
wanted an easy on and easy on the knees pedal loved them.  Gradually
all my bikes got them.  But now I am developing a cronic hot spot on
the ball of my foot and suspect that always using the same pedal might
be a contributor, so have decided to go for some variety.  I have an
old pair of useable Campy rat traps but like the idea of the wider MKS
body on their touring pedal  But I see they also make a platform
pedal, the GR 9.  I will probably ride these with sneakers or Keen
Sandals, and large toe clips.  I have a large, size 13, foot.

Has anyone used both of these?  What was your experience?

Michael

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[RBW] Re: Considering new pedals

[MichaelH]

Thanks for sharing your experience Charlie.  I tested out the Grip
Kings over the weekend and plan to give them another try, but found
the lack of contact disconcerting.  At 66 I'm no longer too concerned
about how fast I'm going, but there is a sense of blending man and
machine that I get from toe clips that i don't get from totally
clipless pedals.  Plus, perhaps, after 25 years of being clipped in my
pedaling style seems pretty dependent on some form of clips.  I'm open
to learning to cycle in sneakers and love riding in my keen commuters.

michael

On Jun 1, 6:56 pm, charlie  wrote:
> You've probably heard/read this before but you might want to just try
> riding un-attached. I gave up attached pedaling about seven years ago
> and once my leg muscles were retrained I found it liberating and I
> kept track of my times on familiar routes with no average time
> differences.  In fact, some of my fastest were with my Teva sandals
> and BMX style platform pedals. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it for
> fixed gear pedaling but for everything else I do. At first I had a few
> foot slips because my legs had become "lazy" being attached but I soon
> adapted and haven't been sorry since, not even once..plus I get to
> wear any shoes even my work boots when I'm riding places where I
> happen to want work boots on. I used to get those hot spots too which
> is why I quit using clip ins and even my old school slotted cleats and
> toe clips.too many foot problems.
>
> On Jun 1, 12:48 pm, MichaelH  wrote:
>
>
>
> > About a decade ago I discovered Speedplay Frog Pedals and fell in love
> > with them.  I have recommended them to many people and everybody who
> > wanted an easy on and easy on the knees pedal loved them.  Gradually
> > all my bikes got them.  But now I am developing a cronic hot spot on
> > the ball of my foot and suspect that always using the same pedal might
> > be a contributor, so have decided to go for some variety.  I have an
> > old pair of useable Campy rat traps but like the idea of the wider MKS
> > body on their touring pedal  But I see they also make a platform
> > pedal, the GR 9.  I will probably ride these with sneakers or Keen
> > Sandals, and large toe clips.  I have a large, size 13, foot.
>
> > Has anyone used both of these?  What was your experience?
>
> > Michael

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[RBW] Re: Considering new pedals

[MichaelH]

Wow, I'm blown away by all the input.  thanks to everyone.   I thought
about the possibility that it might be the shoe instead of the pedal.
I could see how that could happen but I have three shoes (keen,
shimono, sidis) and two pedal styles (frog and xo1 roads) but the
problem has become constant. I had foot surgery two winters ago to
remove a golf ball size cyst under a corn on the ball of my right
foot, which is where I'm now feeling pain again.  I especially
appreciate all the people who mentioned the pedals feeling too small.
Lots of people like the very affordable MKS touring pedals but was
cautioned by Beth's remark since i suspect I may get the same hot
spot.  When time permits I'll do a little web search on the Shimano
520, but right now it feels like a choice between the MKS & a pair of
clips for $60 and the White Ind. (I love my WI hubs and crank) and
Bruce Gordons half clips for $260.

This sounds easy, but it reminds me of the story (from Antony d'Mello)
about the man held up at gun point with the choice, "Your money or
your life."  He thought a moment and responded, " You better take my
life, I need the money for my old age!"

How much would you pay for even a couple of months of extra cycling in
your life?

michael
take care of self; it's one of a kind and irreplacable

On Jun 2, 10:51 am, Beth H  wrote:
> I tried the MKS Touring pedal and found that the two thin sides caused
> little hot-spots of their own, even with thicker-soled BMX sneakers.
> After riding my upright city bike for ages with GR-9's and toeclips, I
> swapped in some MKS RMX pedals this week (my "dainty" size 9 ladies
> feet don't require Grip Kings), and I like them a lot. The only hard
> part is that I find them a little slippery on very rainy days. I may
> ultimately swap in some BMX platform pedals -- they're not as pretty
> but they do offer more traction.
>
> Beth
>
> On Jun 2, 3:46 am, newenglandbike  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I have MKS touring pedals on all my bikes except one...

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[RBW] Re: Different Pedal Question - M324's

[MichaelH]

I too once fixed a clicking noise like that by retightening all of the
chainring bolts.  It's easy to see how a single loose bolt could cause
that kind of click.

michael

On Jun 2, 4:58 pm, Larry Powers  wrote:
> I keep not getting to that.  I will do it tonight.
>
>
>
> > Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2011 10:40:17 -0700
> > Subject: [RBW] Re: Different Pedal Question - M324's
> > From: mgiangs...@gmail.com
> > To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
>
> > Maybe it's a dumb quesiton, but have you tried different pedals? Just
> > to verify the clicking is coming from the pedals?
>
> > On Jun 2, 1:11 pm, Larry Powers  wrote:
> > > My QB is my do everything bike so I like these pedals because it does not 
> > > matter what shoes I am wearing, I can ride.  One problem, I have a 
> > > clicking sound when I am climbing hard.  I have tightened the crank arms 
> > > and replaced the bottom bracket and neither fixed the problem.  I have 
> > > also greased and tightened the pedals in the cranks also with no results.
>
> > > I am currently 220lbs.  I don't hear the click when riding on the flats, 
> > > I don't hear it if I am out of the saddle and climbing at a fast cadence. 
> > >  I do hear it when I am climbing a steep hill at a slow cadence.  I can 
> > > also get the click to happen if I am spinning on the flats and then just 
> > > stand and put all y weight on the pedals.  I can't do this consistently 
> > > enough to get it to happen when I am at the bike shop.
>
> > > Questions:  Has anyone else experienced this with these pedals?  Does 
> > > anyone know if these pedals can be adjusted?  
>
> > > Thanks
>
> > > Larry Powers
>
> > > Get a bicycle.  You will not regret it if you live. - Mark Twain
>
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[RBW] Re: Considering new pedals

[MichaelH]

Charlie's message resonates with me... "our bodies tell us when
something isn't good for us"  I don't doubt that some riders get into
foot pain with ill fitting, or over tightened shoes, but I don't think
that's my problem.  I have a number of riding shoes but mostly use
Keen Commuters and it's hard for me to imagine they are causing my
foot problems.  I do believe our riding styles must evolve over time.

About a decade ago I connected with Rivendell and discovered how much
happier I was with higher bars.  Now, at 66, I'm learning not to
equate how fast I'm going with how much joy I'm getting. My feet are
telling me not to abuse them.  Still somethings are out of my
control.  Climbs in the east are shorter and steeper than in the
west.  My stoker (who almost never wants to ride her single anymore)
likes to push bigger gears at a lower cadence than me and knows that
the first rule of tandeming is that the stoker is always right. So we
power up the short steep climbs and even cruise in a bigger gear than
i would choose.  We went out for a 20 mile ride together today and
before we got home I could feel the twinges in my right foot.

We are planning a mid July tour of 240 miles out and back on the P'tit
Train du Nord, and I have decided on a pedal.  Tomorrow I plan to
order the White / Bruce Gordon combo.  If it doesn't work out for me.
one of you will get a good deal in late July.

Tomorrow, God willing and the creek don't rise, I'm taking the
Rambouillet for a long ride in the big hills.

michael

On Jun 4, 1:17 pm, charlie  wrote:
> Its kind of odd how our bodies tell us when something isn't good for
> us.lower gearing, more spinning, less mashing, shorter rides, more
> stops, more walking as an alternative to grinding up hills, more
> surface area for the feet to push against etc. I'm leaning toward
> Grant's "dual athelete"  concept..I know my walking muscles are
> underused and whats wrong with simply getting off the bike and
> resting? Fifty miles of riding has always been the turning point for
> me where I am fighting the more natural reaction to stop while also
> questioning why I am looking for ways to extend suffering. YMMV
>
> On Jun 4, 9:11 am, "Kelly Sleeper"  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I agree that hotspots are cause by more than "just" the small platform.
> > However that being said the "but" follows.  When I started using
> > look/shimano spd-r etc all wider platforms with the same shoes the hot spots
> > took much longer to hit.  With regular spd's 50 miles was the max.. with
> > spd-r's  I didn't have any problems except the hilliest of centuries.  
>
> > The hot spots also made me concentrate on better form / smoother pedaling.
> > I also tried many different shoes ending with the mega carbon sidi's.   From
> > my experience the wider platforms make a huge difference.
>
> > Now I ride nothing but platform pedals and tennis shoes .. cleats and
> > special shoes are too much work.
>
> > Kelly
>
> > -Original Message-
> > From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
>
> > [mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve Palincsar
> > Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2011 1:38 PM
> > To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Considering new pedals
>
> > On Thu, 2011-06-02 at 06:29 -0700, Peter Pesce wrote:
> > > Michael-
>
> > > Re-reading your original post it seems you are not necessarily looking
> > > to change away from a clipless pedal, only looking to cure your
> > > hot-spot problems?
> > > In that case I might recommend the Shimano A520 pedal if you still
> > > want clipless but need a wider support platform to get rid of
> > > hot-spots.
>
> > In my experience, hot spots aren't caused by a small pedal platform, but
> > rather by the shoes: too flexible soles, and on too tight once the foot
> > swells in the heat.  The way to cure a hot spot while riding is to take off
> > your shoe for 30 sec to 2 min.
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
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[RBW] Re: can anyone relate--getting older (50) and back into cycling: finding drops not so easy...

[MichaelH]

I took about a ten year break from cycling in my forties when life
demanded I focus exclusively on other things.  When I started back, I
set two rules for myself which proved very useful.  First I went on a
(Atkins) diet and lost 40 lbs.  Second, as I recommitted myself I
decided to avoid riding so much on any day that I wouldn't want to
ride again tomorrow.  Both of those proved to be very useful
decisions. About the same time I discovered Rivendell and I raised my
bars.  Setting them about 2 cm below my saddle provided great relieve
to my back and especially my neck muscles.

Drop bars provide the most variety for hand positions, which relieve
stress on the wrist & shoulders.  I found putting them higher  than
the saddle prevented me from standing up, and Vt has lots of short
steep rollers to get over, which are often easiest if you stand up and
give some push.

I'm in my mid-late 60's now and continue to ride with drop bars about
2 cm below the seat.  I do some yoga after every ride now.  I've lost
a lot of power and speed, and this year feel a drop in endurance, but
as long as I don't look at a bike computer too much, my happiness per
mile hasn't trailed off.

Drop bars also offer the  least stress on the buns and maybe the feet
too, which have been a problem for me.

michael
just back from a happy, hilly 20 mile ride.

On Jun 6, 11:55 am, canali  wrote:
> just wondering if it's just me and i need to take my time adding the
> mileage and being consistent  and patient (and getting back into
> shape)
>
> OR do alot of us as we get older no longer find being so bent down as
> comfortable...thinking of swapping out drops on atlantis for jeff
> jones h loop bars or the north road bars.

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[RBW] Re: Freewheels and Rivendell - Where We Started

[MichaelH]

I stuck with freewheels for a long time.  Probably, mostly because I
already had a bunch of perfectly good hubs, not to mention frames with
126 mm rear spacing.  I especially found 7 speed freewheels (13-28)
with a 50/40/28 very nice on my touring bikes.

 I struggled through the dry period of increasingly hard to find
freewheels.  Eventually, I bought a set of wheels with a 9 speed,
12-27 cassette.  I found that I really liked the ability to use 12 and
then 11 toothed cassettes because I could reduce the size of the
rings.  Eventually I migrated to a 44/30 crank with an 11-28 cassette
or 12-27 with 48/34/26 triples.  The former gave me the same low as a
racing triple by only giving up one gear at the top, and the latter
gives me a good shifting pattern, a pretty low mid gear and a great
escape, which I can't get with a freewheel.

Cassettes are indeed easier to remove that freewheels, but I don't
think its a big deal, although I admit to having stripped the threads
on on one free hub.  I do have two complaints about cassettes.  First,
the low end ones don't shift reliably in 9 speed mode.  They don't
hold the chain and jump around.  I have not found this to be a problem
with the better Ultegra and HG cassettes.  Second, they are harder to
clean.  I use to simply run a thin strip of cloth between cogs to
clean up freewheels, but that doesn't work with cassettes.  And to
boot, Shimano has drilled a gazillion  little holes in the cogs which
collect muck and are very difficult to clean.

michael,
take care of Self; it's one of a kind and irreplaceable

On Jun 8, 12:44 pm, Jim Cloud  wrote:
> With the subject of freewheels on a recent post, I thought it would be
> of some interest to quote a piece of Rivendell history from the first
> Rivendell catalog (Summer 1996).
>
> "Freewheels
>
> "We don't sell cassettes.  There's nothing wrong with cassettes, but
> there's something fishy about the way they're promoted.  Cassettes
> support axles better, so you don't break axles; but Bullseye, Phil and
> others have proven that you can totally eliminate axle-flex and
> breakages with a better designed freewheel hub.  More likely, the real
> reason cassettes have overtaken freewheels is to increase production
> efficiency for the large hub makers.  We and many others find
> freewheels quicker and easier to change than cassettes; and freewheels
> certainly have versatility on their side.  Freewheel availability has
> got to be a concern for anybody with freewheel hubs.  Cassettes change
> often enough to make year-to-year compatibility an issue, so it's not
> as though once you've got your cassette body, you'll always be able to
> get the cogs.  But there's little incentive for anybody who ever made
> freewheels to continue making them.  Shimano still makes one cheap
> model, SunTour is history.  Regina-the company still exists, but we
> hear they're making conveyor belts or something.  Sachs, the great
> German hope, still offers a full line of freewheels, but the word is
> they'd like to cut back their selection.  Factories see freewheels as
> money-eaters."
>
> I don't wish to insinuate that something Grant Peterson wrote in 1996
> is representative of his present opinion.  It's still interesting,
> however, to see how some (including me) would have chosen a freewheel
> equipped bike at that time in preference of a cassette.  I'm
> personally quite satisfied with the choice I made for my 1996
> Rivendell Standard and feel that its given me good service and will
> continue to do so in the future.
>
> Jim Cloud
> Tucson, AZ

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[RBW] El Duke Degreaser

[MichaelH]

A while back I bought a bottle of El Duke Degreaser from Rivendell.
Eco friendly, works great, virtually odorless.  Only the bottle is
almost empty and I can't find it on the web site any more.  Anybody
know why, and perhaps more importantly, where I can get it?

michael

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[RBW] Re: Appropriate Answers to Questions on any Bike Forum

[MichaelH]

I especially liked the last two statements:

Stopping can be as much fun as riding.

Lots of people worked their asses off to build whatever you’re riding
on. You should thank them.

And I would add, I am mostly likely to respond positively to posts
which are statements of personal experience and avoid categorical
attacks on someone else's experience.

michael
westford, vt

On Jun 16, 4:47 pm, jamison brosseau 
wrote:
> Yes
> On Jun 16, 3:44 pm, Mojo  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I enjoyed that Jim.
> > Thanks
>
> > in sunny hot breezy not-yet-smoky Albuquack after a ride to Sandia
> > Crest on the Legolas
>
> > On Jun 16, 1:23 pm, Jim Cloud  wrote:
>
> > > A link to this site was recently posted on another Google groups forum
> > > (Internet-BOB).
>
> > >http://surlybikes.com/blog/some_answers_to_just_about_any_bike_forum_...
>
> > > I think it obviously works well here for the RBW group as well!
>
> > > Jim Cloud
> > > Tucson, AZ

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[RBW] Re: Google Group Web Pokiness

[MichaelH]

RBW hasn't loaded for almost a week, but emptying my cache seems to
have helped, although I can't think of a reason Y.  Thanks for the
suggestion, Jim.

michael

On Jun 20, 6:47 pm, Leslie  wrote:
> Thanks for checkin' on it;   I'd noticed the delay in loading, that it
> actually times out on my iPhone's browser, but my PC, it'll hang in
> there until it eventually get it brought up.
>
> (I read it via digest-mode, but come to the board itself to reply).
>
> On Jun 20, 1:52 pm, CycloFiend  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Hey all -
>
> > A couple people emailed me over the weekend, and I just wanted to pass along
> > that there have been some access issues reported.
>
> > Just a heads up that for some reason, the web version of the RBW Owners
> > Group has been loading up very, very slowly (or not at all) for no apparent
> > reason for the past couple of days.
>
> > I'm checking into it, but don't have a clear explanation as of yet. (Ghost
> > in the Machine is idea #1 right now...)  Google may have monkeyed with some
> > things behind the scenes and it's just rippling through the interwebs.
>
> > If you just access the group via email (web or pop3) you probably didn't
> > notice a difference.  It only has been happening if you go to the Groups
> > page and then find it takes a while to load.
>
> > Remember, pokey internet response is a good excuse to ride.
>
> > - Jim / list admin
>
> > --
> > Jim Edgar
> > cyclofi...@earthlink.net
>
> > Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
> > Current Classics - Cross Bikes
> > Singlespeed - Working Bikes
>
> > "Whatever you do will be insignificant, but it is very important that you do
> > it."
> >     Mahatma Gandhi

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[RBW] Re: HS

[MichaelH]

At 66 with four bikes plus the tandem I don't have many bike purchases
left in me, but hub shift suggests IGH to me, which brings up my ideal
winter bike:

Rolhoff rear hub; gates carbon belt; Schmidt front hub; Ti frame; room
for 42 mm studded tires and full fenders.  I don't see this bike
coming from a desert in California!

Dang i wish this site didn't take so long to load... what gives?  I
can load the cached version or the /discussion version... but the
basic .groups/rbw-owners-bunch takes almost 2 minutes on a decent
cable connection with Safari & lots of spare memory.

Gotta go out for a ride on my new White pedals..

michael

On Jun 19, 5:47 pm, James Warren  wrote:
> HS must stand for "hub shift". The big clue for me is the statement that you 
> can't use more than one chainring on it. At first I thought, "what, you can't 
> clamp on a front derailleur?" But once "hub shift" was suggested, I realized 
> that a hub shift with no rear derailleur hanger would make it hard to have 
> something that would take up the slack required when switching between 
> multiple chainrings. So hub shift with no rear hanger fits the clues given.
>
> I like having a 135-rear-spacing bike that has a derailleur hanger, because I 
> have the option of doing one of the new internally geared hubs and could 
> still use it with multiple gears up front.
>
> -Jim W.

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[RBW] Re: Vermont Rides/Camping

[MichaelH]

Anyone coming to Vt to ride should definitely go to the Local Motion
web site and order the Lake Champlain Bikeways map.  It covers pretty
much everything west of the green mountains from the center of the
state to the Canadian border, plus a lot of good rides in NY, which
has much better shoulders and pavement than VT.  I live in Westford,
about 15 miles north east of Burlington and use the map to navigate
around a lot of small dirt roads up here in the northern towns.  These
are good roads with great views but many of them are not on the state
map.  Many of Vt's roads and shoulders are in poor condition, which
makes the trade off to dirt roads more appealing.

Grand Isle and the lake shore roads between Vergennes and Middlebury
are the only really flat part of the state, but they can be windy.  As
someone pointed out, if you want to ride on Grand Isle the best
choices are East Shore Rd, which is dirt, and West Shore Rd.  For some
reason most cyclist will instead fight the winds and traffic on Rt 2.

If you visit our capital, Montpelier, ( a great little town) there are
lots of good roads nearby.  I visit my daughter there weekly and often
ride north on Rt 12, which has pretty good pavement, once you're out
of town, a nice shoulder, low traffic midday, and nice views.  Plus
it's slowly up hill as you go north, so the trip home is pretty easy.

On Jun 20, 8:39 am, Zack  wrote:
> Hey All -
>
> I live in Burlington, VT, and would like to start doing some overnight
> camping trips in VT.  I am researching good spots to do the
> overnights, and figured I would ask on here as well.  Have any of you
> done any in VT?
>
> A lot of what I am finding for state park camping is more like car-
> camping, (with a bunch of campsites clustered together/showers/
> firewood/firepit, etc. - which is okay, but not really what I am
> looking for.) I would like to camp somewhere that I am by myself,
> maybe have a nice view, and have a chance to get away.  I thought it
> would be worth asking on here, as some may have experience.
>
> Any help?  Appreciate it in advance!

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[RBW] Thumbies vs BEs

[MichaelH]

I am considering a switch to thumbies on our tandem.  I am finding the
BEs too slow on the tandem for the kind of rolling hills of Vt, which
require a lot of fast, double shifts to attack hills that often swing
from minus to plus 10%.  The long cables, long rear derailleur cage,
and the need to move each separately from the shifter back to the bar
before I can reach for the other shifter causes too much delay and I
end up with too much pressure to drop the chain, or I shift early and
we end up spinning wildly, or even dropping the chain all together.

Does anyone have any experience going from one to the other on a road
bike, that they can share.  I suppose the other option is to ride more
on the drops, where I can reach the shifters faster.

Michael
Westford, Vt

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[RBW] Re: Saddle Comparison - Brooks B17, Swift and Berthoud Touring

[MichaelH]

Thanks for the posting, I found it interesting.  I use both the early
Selle Anatomica, which is a bit narrower than the current offering,
and a B17 and like them both very much.  My wife, on the other hand,
has never found a saddle she likes.  They all seem to chafe on the
inside parts.  From your pictures the Berthoud nose seems to get
narrower faster and I wonder if that would work better for her.

michael

On Jun 23, 9:30 am, rperks  wrote:
> I was lucky enough to have a semi-surplus Brooks B17 on hand to trade
> with Brad (jinxed) for his Swift - thank you.  While I was playing
> musical chairs with the saddles in the stable I decided to take some
> pictures and measurements comparing my three saddles of choice. The
> Brooks B17, now a Swift and Berthoud Touring all have seen some time
> on my bicycle rotation.  Detailed post with pictures here:
>
> http://wp.me/p19mfs-ql
> orhttp://oceanaircycles.com/2011/06/23/saddle-comparison-brooks-b17-swi...
>
> Bottom line, all three are great saddles.  The B17 is my go to saddle
> for bars at saddle height all the way to albatross and sitting bolt
> upright.  The berthoud is my Goldilocks saddle, it is just wide enough
> to support, but all excess material is out of the way.  Likewise it
> has proven light, durable and waterproof over the last two years and
> thousands of miles.  The Swift being new and firm needs to be broken
> in.  It will reside on my roadeo for a bit as it sees the most miles.
> Initial impressions after a couple 20 something mile rides is really
> good, similar to the berthoud it suports you where you need it, but
> there is nothing left to get in the way when you are bent forward a
> bit.
>
> Rob
> -http://oceanaircycles.com/

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[RBW] Re: Thumbies vs BEs

[MichaelH]

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. Between this list and the
tandem list I have gotten a number of good suggestions.

First, I have used chain stoppers in the past but somehow had
forgotten about them, but adding one to the tandem could solve at
least one problem.  I am also grateful for the observation that
thumbies can cause some thumb fatigue on extended rides.  Since we are
about to set off on a 240 mile sojourn in Quebec, this probably isn't
the time to do that. Besides, one of the best things about BE is the
ergonomics, which far exceeds brifters and even DTs. Besides it
reminded me of why I have never considered them in the past.  On a
single I do 60 % of my riding on or just behind the hoods and 30% on
the drops, I only occasionally use the center of the bars, so thumbies
wouldn't really be all that convenient for me.  On the tandem I'm on
the hoods 80% of the time.

I am also considering a moved to ramped and pinned rings. I have not
found them to be all that beneficial on a single, but some people on
the tandem list recommend them. Tandems put an enormous amount of
pressure on the drive train and I have managed to train my stoker to
know that when I say I'm going to drop the ring, she needs to let up
on the pedals, but it's easy to get in a situation and discover that
the gear you thought would take you to the top, wont, and we're
pushing hard to keep going. When we bought the tandem I outfitted it
with a good used DaVinci tandem crank ( a great crank, btw, I have one
on my single touring bike too) and then put some used Shimano 600
rings, a 50/36/26, setup.  I think I could probably do less shifting
with a 53/39/28, but want to think about that.

Steve and Joe have pointed out, quite correctly that BE's do shift
very rapidly when you have both hands on the drops.  But, I have two
caveats.  Our riding tends to be, as I wrote, on rural back roads,
about half of which are dirt.  We're not out for speed, but rather
enjoying the country side, and so that tends to keep me up on the
hoods.  Of course I could train myself to ride the drops more when I'm
in the hills, but that is most of Vt!  Second a tandem is not like a
single.  Ours is quite long, with two long TTs and long chain stays to
accommodate panniers. The two riders, the bike, water, and a couple of
small bags, tools, and a pair of jackets brings the total weight up to
about 385 lbs. When you're barreling along a dirt road or a broken
section of chip and seal, the added sense of control from being on the
hoods is quite welcome.  Tandems really like to mostly go in a
straight line, until the stoker starts squirming around!

Finally, for the suggestion that I go over to the dark side.  If all
else fails I will consider brifters, probably campy and either add the
jtec shiftmate, or convert the White hub.

keep the rubber side down,
michael,
westford, vt

On Jun 24, 12:00 am, Joe Bernard  wrote:
> Yep, that's my question, too. The easiest double-shift I've ever done
> is riding the hoods, then quickly dropping both hands to the bar-ends,
> snapping off that shift, then back to the hoods.
>
> On Jun 23, 2:29 pm, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Thu, 2011-06-23 at 06:20 -0700, MichaelH wrote:
> > > The long cables, long rear derailleur cage,
> > > and the need to move each separately from the shifter back to the bar
> > > before I can reach for the other shifter causes too much delay and I
> > > end up with too much pressure to drop the chain, or I shift early and
> > > we end up spinning wildly, or even dropping the chain all together.
>
> > I can shift left and right bar end shifters simultaneously, using both
> > hands, holding on to the bar ends themselves.  Are you saying you can
> > only shift one hand at a time?

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Hillborne, all Waterford

[MichaelH]

Very nice bike, but about 10 cm too small for me.  For others who
might be pondering a purchase, I can add that I run the White hubs and
cranks on my Rambouillet.  The crank and rings are absolutely super,
and way better looking than it appears in photos.  You can run
virtually any combination of rings you want.  I run a 44/30  with an
11/28. which gives me a very wide range of gears and a pretty simple
shifting pattern.  Some people complain about the noise White hubs
make, but I have found it a very steady sound which is covered by wind
noise above 15mph.  This looks like a very sweet bike.  Can we ask
what you are asking for it?

Michael

On Nov 14, 10:40 am, Thebikehermit 
wrote:
> I recently closed my retail store. I had two 57 cm A.H.H. frames which
> Rivendell bought back, so if you've been waiting for/wanting
> one...give them a call. I also have a 52cm Hillborne which is
> currently built in a little unusual, but high end configuration. White
> Industries hubs and crankset, 10 speed Shimano Ultegra brifters.
> Comfortable and 
> fast.http://www.flickr.com/photos/45715...@n06/4831921730/in/photostream/
> Reply to me if you have an interest. Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 64cm Atlantis, Complete Bike

[MichaelH]

I have been on the lookout for a used 61 / 64cm Atlantis frame for a
long time.  I'm surprised / amazed at how rarely one of these frames
comes on the market.  Nice bike, but I'm not in a position to go for
the whole bike right now.  Good luck.

Michael

On Nov 24, 10:15 am, mkrbec  wrote:
> I have thought about that quite a bit, but would rather just sell the
> whole bike and start over.  I've got a lot of spare parts lying around
> that need to used and can build up 2/3rds of whichever frame I decide
> to go with right now.  For the sake of space and finances, I think it
> better to sell the whole thing.
>
> On Nov 24, 6:22 am, tdusky  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Beautiful build.
> > Why not sell the frame and use all of those great parts for your next
> > bike?
> > I have a 61cm Atlantis and it's a bit small for me. My best size would
> > be a 63cm frame.
> > I wish I could ride your bike, maybe we could trade frames? But I live
> > in Michigan, so probably not.
> > Good Luck
> > Tom
>
> > On Nov 23, 4:49 pm, mkrbec  wrote:
>
> > > For sale is my 64cm Rivendell Atlantis
>
> > > I built this up as my fully-loaded touring dream bike, but sadly I am
> > > just too big for it really need something a bit stouter (something
> > > more like a Bombadil, or maybe a Hunq).  I hope it will go to a good
> > > home.
>
> > > Many of the parts are new or nearly new.  I bought the frame from a
> > > member of the RBW group, who was the original owner.  It is a Toyo
> > > frame and in excellent shape with just some minor paint scrapes on the
> > > chainstay.  It has never been crashed and has been well taken care of
> > > its entire life.
>
> > > So the frame, fork, headset, seatpost and stem were all purchased
> > > used, but in excellent condition.
>
> > > 64cm Toyo-built Rivendell Atlantis Frame
> > > Shimano Ultegra Headset
> > > Nitto Jaguar Seatpot
> > > Nitto Technomic Deluxe
>
> > > I then went about putting together the rest of the build, all of the
> > > parts listed below have less than 200 miles on them.
>
> > > Wheels, hand-built by Peter White.
> > > Velocity Chukker rims, 40 spoke rear with Phil Wood Touring Cassette
> > > Hub
> > > 36 spoke front, with Schmidt SON Dynamo hub
> > > Schwabe Marathon Supreme 700x40 tires
> > > Brooks Champion Flyer Saddle
> > > Phil Wood Bottom Bracket
> > > Sugino Triple Crank
> > > Shimano XT rear derailer
> > > Shimano SORA front derailer
> > > Tektro CR720 Cantilever Brakes, w/KoolStop triple compound pads
> > > Nitto 48cm Noodle Bars
> > > Shimano Tiagra Brake levers
> > > Tektro Interruper Brake Levers
> > > MKS Grip King Pedals
> > > Schmidt Edelux Dynamo Headlight
> > > Topflight Dynao Taillight (with heavy-duty Schmidt wiring)
> > > Pletscher Twin-Legger Kickstand with deluxe plate (extra padding so it
> > > doesn't damage the frame)
> > > Nitto Big Rear Rack
> > > Nitto M12 Mini Front Rack
> > > SRAM 8 speed cassette
> > > SRAM 8 speed chain
> > > Shimano bar end shifters
> > > Jagwire Teflon brake cables
> > > Jagwire Hyper derailer cables
> > > SKS p50 fenders
> > > Retro Front Mudflap
>
> > > Photos can be found 
> > > here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/25541...@n07/sets/72157625455257710/
>
> > > I have over $3500 in this bike, and am asking $2800, but am willing to
> > > listen to reasonable offers.  I am local in the Portland/Vancouver
> > > area, but buying from a distance will have the bike packed
> > > professionally by my local bike shop.  Buyer to pay full S&H.

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[RBW] Re: Rambouillet Serial #'s?

[MichaelH]

Somehow or other I allowed myself to get drawn into this impossible
conversation!  Mine is also 2005, blue, purchased at retail, as a
whole bike -  RB 0716.

While were on #s we can't make sense of, my 62 cm bike weighs 24.5 lbs
with Honjo fenders and a Mark's mini rack, saddle and pedals..  I'm
guessing that's down toward the low end of avg. by a lb or two.

Michael
On Nov 20, 1:44 pm, Mitch  wrote:
> Blue Ram RB0750 purchased as a  complete bike early 2005 at Riv.
> Mitch

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[RBW] Re: Classic Friction Shifting

[MichaelH]

I still have a mid 80s vintage NR derailler in my parts bin.  I have
great memories of it and would love to use it on a bike today, but it
just doesn't have the capacity my vintage legs need now.  I used it
with a 52/42 and 13-26 and that was about its limit, 23 teeth.   Today
I need about 30 teeth of capacity to get around.  I've thought of
putting a flatlanders bike together but I do live at the bottom of 1
1/2 miles of 8% grade on a dirt road, so it doesn't sound to
practical.

My daughter, now in her mid thirties still rides her brothers first
racing bike, a 1983 Bianchi with a Campy NR groupo. It looks like
hell, which keeps it from being stolen, but she tells me it rides
pretty nicely.

Oh well, enjoy it Eric.

michael

On Dec 7, 11:45 pm, Eric Norris  wrote:
> Just arrived from an eBay seller in France:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/sets/72157625550425538/
>
> Classic Italian friction shifting! This goes with the Velo Orange 48/34 
> cransket and a nice big 7s freewheel on one of my retro bikes (lugged steel 
> Benotto).
>
> --Eric N

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[RBW] Brave, Foolish, or maybe necessary?

[MichaelH]

I live in northern Vt, one ride below the 45th parallel. I'm 6 miles
down the road to the nearest shops and services.  Sunset, this time of
year is around 4:30 and until the big lakes freeze over, the weather
tends to be cloudy and snowy.  With the moon in its last quarter its
very dark, very early.

It has snowed slowly and steadily through the week, leaving about 15"
of snow cover and the road shoulders with an inch or two of packed and
loose snow.  The skies started to clear a bit yesterday and the temps
dropped , +14 at sundown and -10 by sunrise this morning.

I headed into town at 5:00, in my car and drove down an unlit country
road, passing a nearly steady stream of commuters headed home up the
road.  Suddenly I saw a very bright bicycle light coming up the road.
As I passed him (her?) I saw that the tail light was just avg.

My first thought was, wow that takes some guts, but my second thought
was that's more risk than I would ever want to take on a bicycle, and
my third thought was I don't mind riding in the dark; I don't mind
riding in the cold; and I don't mind riding in the wet.  But that much
cold, dark, wet and risk all at the same time is something I wouldn't
choose to do, unless it was absolutely necessary.

What do you think?

Michael
on a gloriously beautiful morning

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[RBW] Re: Brave, Foolish, or maybe necessary?

[MichaelH]

actually the parallel is right at the border, about 30 miles from my
home.

On Dec 10, 3:04 pm, Allan in Portland  wrote:
> > I live in northern Vt, one ride below the 45th parallel.
>
> Point of order, point of order! The Cascadia contingent would like to
> clarify that the only states intersecting the 45th parallel east of
> the Great Lakes are New Hampshire and Maine.
>
> Carry on, :-)
> -Allan

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[RBW] Re: Shimmy, according to BQ

[MichaelH]

I would suggest adjusting / slash tightening the headset, before I
bought a new one.

My Ebisu All Purpose frame had a very slight front end shimmy as soon
as I put  it together.  After two years of riding, I became aware that
the shimmy was very gradually getting worse. One day I checked the
headset and discovered it had loosened considerably.  I ride a lot of
bad roads and I now suspect that the top nut had never been tightened
enough and rattled loose.  It's better now.

Michael



On Dec 10, 1:03 pm, William  wrote:
> I am a recent subscriber of Bicycle Quarterly.  I had thought about
> subscribing for a while, and two things about the newest issue made me
> pull the trigger.  One was the write up about the Bilenky 650B tandem
> (dude, I want one).  The other was the article about shimmy.  I know
> Jan Heine has a reputation under some sections of the big tent of
> cycling, and I was interested to hear what he had to say.  I expected
> by now somebody would have started a thread about the shimmy article,
> but it is towards the back.  My Samuel Hillborne is the first bike
> I've owned that has a pronounced tendency to shimmy when riding no-
> handed.  I'm not the most experienced rider.  I've only had 30 or 40
> different bikes in my lifetime, so I don't have nearly the experience
> Jan does.  I hoped to gain a greater understanding of the problem and
> maybe do something about it on my Sam.
>
> Unfortunately, I found the article almost entirely unsatisfying.  The
> Cliff-notes synopsis is: "I don't know what causes shimmy, nor does
> anyone else.  Here's what several oldschool guys said about shimmy.
> They were wrong.  I can't take a bike that doesn't shimmy and change
> it into a bike that does shimmy.  Even though I don't have any ideas
> about the causes or the solutions, you should absolutely swap your
> headset to needle bearings if your bike shimmies and hope for the
> best, even though I don't know if it will help, and maybe will make it
> worse"
>
> Now don't get me wrong.  I don't understand shimmy, but I came to the
> article with the attitude of student.  The only other articles I've
> read on the topic are Sheldon Brown's (RIP) very brief glossary
> discussion and the Jobst Brandt article.  For Jan to put the single
> word "Shimmy" on the cover, and to title his article "What Causes
> Shimmy?" suggests that he knows something.  The article content itself
> suggests to me that Jan might not know any more about shimmy than any
> of us.  That's not necessarily a bad thing: I'm convinced it's a
> complex problem.  But I'd almost rather see a person in a pedagogical
> position of leadership to say "Hey, I know a lot, but I don't
> understand shimmy.  Here's some anecdotal observations I've made.
> Here's some anecdotes I've heard, but haven't verified." and just end
> it there.
>
> Since I'm growing convinced that there might not be anyone who really
> understands shimmy, I'm going to run some experiments of my own on my
> Hillborne to attempt to understand it more.  Since that bike, in it's
> current state, shimmies willingly when riding no-handed at 15mph on a
> smooth flat road, I think I have a decent baseline and reasonably
> reproducable test environment.  I'm going to try several (numerous?)
> things, and I'll at least try to take better than normal notes, and
> see if I can learn anything.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 64cm Atlantis, Complete Bike

[MichaelH]

Bravo

On Dec 16, 1:12 am, mkrbec  wrote:
> The Atlantis is no longer for sale, I've decided to keep the bike.
> While the bike has been for sale I have been each night after work and
> on weekends and have slowly fallen in love with the bike.  So much so
> that I can no longer bring myself to sell her, flex be damned, I'll
> lose the weight needed to take her touring up in the mountains while
> cruising the bike paths downtown.  Thanks to everybody for their
> interest and for not buying my bike :-)
>
> .
>
> On Dec 9, 7:20 am, mkrbec  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Thanks Mike..  I am still going to hold out hope of selling the whole
> > bike, but if no one pulls the trigger by the end of the year I may
> > decide to part it out.  I do have quite a few people interested in the
> > wheels, so maybe I will end up breaking it up.
>
> > I'll keep you posted.
>
> > Best,
> > Matthew
>
> > On Dec 8, 4:14 pm, Mike  wrote:
>
> > > I remain very interested in the frame but understand your reluctance
> > > to part it out. Unfortunately I just can't swing the whole bike at
> > > this time.
>
> > > --mike
>
> > > On Dec 8, 8:16 am, Joe Bartoe  wrote:> Cost, build, 
> > > pics?
>
> > > > Joe Bartoe
>
> > > > Synaptic Cycles Bicycle Rentals, Inc.www.synapticcycles.com
>
> > > >949-374-6079begin_of_the_skype_highlighting949-374-6079  end_of_the_skype_highlighting
>
> > > > > Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2010 06:58:05 -0800
> > > > > Subject: [RBW] Re: FS:64cmAtlantis, Complete Bike
> > > > > From: mkr...@gmail.com
> > > > > To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
>
> > > > > Just wanted to bump this up.  The bike is still available.
>
> > > > > -Matthew
>
> > > > > --
> > > > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
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> > > > > To post to this group, send email to 
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[RBW] Re: Frame pump?

[MichaelH]

"A pump strap holds it in nicely."

That's my experience too, without one the pump will periodically get
bounced off the bike.   Personally, I have found the very good minis
now on the market to be an easier solution.

michael

On Dec 19, 8:00 pm, Bruce  wrote:
>  A pump strap holds
> it in nicely.
>
> 
> From: eflayer 
> To: RBW Owners Bunch 
> Sent: Sun, December 19, 2010 6:42:00 PM
> Subject: [RBW] Re: Frame pump?
>
> one brand and model and how the lengths they come in:
>
> http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/topeak-pumps/28-024
>
> On Dec 19, 4:28 pm, robert zeidler  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Depends on the length of the top-tube also.  You may need a
> > (tech-term-warning!!!) doo-hickey that comes with the pump, that will attach
> > to the top-tube so the pump compresses in.  Sayin'?

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[RBW] Re: Riding posture - advice appreciated

[MichaelH]

Your position looks fine to me. You didn't say you were uncomfortable,
so I assume you are able to ride down most hills or into strong winds
in this position.  If you want to go faster  put your hands on the top
of the bars, pull in the elbows and put you chin as close to the stem
as you can.  After 28 mph it's all about aerodynamics.  I would
absolutely second the recommendation about yoga.  Not just for cycling
but for all around flexibility and health.

michael

On Dec 20, 9:41 am, Paul Yeoh  wrote:
> After looking at some photos taken by Early Grey of me riding his Sam
> with drop bars (example 
> here:)http://www.flickr.com/photos/25150...@n08/5260456237/
>
> I noticed that I am particularly "bent" in the lower back. Well, no
> surprise really, I've noticed this elsewhere in my life but cycling on
> drop bars makes it really pronounced. What are the implications of
> this crooked posture? How would one go about straightening the spine
> during cycling or anything else?
>
> On today's ride on my bike (Sam w moustache bars set about level with
> saddle height) I made an effort to keep my back straight and tilt the
> pelvis more. Not easy, and I had a mild back ache 30 minutes into the
> ride. What does that mean?
>
> On another note, on my way back down the mountain I had an absolute
> blast on the Sam. Smooth, fast and winding road on Marathon Extremes
> and tektro cantilevers - wow. To me, the way the Sam feels on fast
> descents is the highlight of this all-round fantastic bike. (the way
> downhills can be a highlight of the overall cycling experience, unless
> you're riding rough pavement on a racing frame with 23 mm slicks at
> 100 psi) The extremes probably slowed down overall speed a little but
> still rode very smooth and comfortable. Not buzzy at all.
>
> Any advice / help with improving my posture much appreciated!

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[RBW] Re: Riv Ride Chiang Mai 12-27-10

[MichaelH]

Nice.  Where in Thailand is Chiang Mai

michael

On Dec 29, 8:07 am, Earl Grey  wrote:
> First time we've had 3 Rivendells on a ride. Did my favorite loop that is
> about half dirt, time-wise.
>
> A few photos:http://www.flickr.com/photos/25150...@n08/
>
> Cheers,
>
> Gernot

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[RBW] Re: Can you outgrow a frame?

[MichaelH]

B

I assume you already know that raising the bars also brings them
closer to you as well as relieving strain on the wrists, arms, neck
and back.  I would also strongly recommend regular yoga routine.  You
can't stop the aging process but you can both slow it down and
ameliorate its impact.  Besides increasing your flexibility the yoga
will heighten your body awareness, which will make the rest of your
needs easier to perceive and respond to.
enjoy the ride.
michael

On Dec 30, 12:42 am, b hamon  wrote:
> I wonder if any of you have had a custom frame that you rode for years and 
> more recently have found that the top tube has become too long for you? I 
> would guess this happens more noticeably to the short-torsoed among us, since 
> as we age our spines compress and those with shorter torsos feel the 
> difference in the reach to the handlebars sooner than everyone else.
>
> But I'm beginning to suspect that this may be happening to me with a 
> 12-year-old custom frame that is no longer comfortable with drops on it (even 
> with the shortest Nitto Techie I can find). My suspicion may have been 
> confirmed at the doctor's office this week when I discovered that I was not 
> only no longer 5' 7", I apparently haven't been for some time.
>
> For someone who is, in her family of origin, very, very short (my sister and 
> all my cousins topped out at 6' or more), it was a crushing blow, for at 
> least ten minutes.
>
> Seriously, has this happened to anyone else? Is it possible to "outgrow" (or 
> outshrink?) a custom frame? --B

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[RBW] Re: Hillborne converted to Compact Double

[MichaelH]

I think you will really like this set up.  I converted my Rambouillet
to a White Ind VCB double with a 44/30 and 11-28 9 speed cassette and
have really liked it.  Front shifting is much more predictable and
with an 11 tooth cog the smaller rings eliminate the nee for a triple.

Happy New Year
michael

On Dec 30, 2:32 pm, William  wrote:
> Several things converged on this small winter project.  Rather than
> bore with the backstories, here's the Hillborne with a new compact
> double drivetrain:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758...@n04/sets/72157625582849057/
>
> chainguard/42/30 in front
> 11-32 8 speed in back
> Suntour XC Pro ft + rear ders.

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[RBW] Re: AHH Gets A New Old Crank Set, Old Rear Derailleur - Feels Fantastic !

[MichaelH]

Very nice.  I'm not usually in favor of double TTs, but on your bike
they look perfect.  How the heck tall are you anyway?

BTW, I installed that 6700 RD this summer on my Ram and really love
it.  I moved a very good Centaur to another bike when I installed a
doubl ring crank, and have been amazed at how well this one shifts.
You're going to love it.

Happy New Year.
michael

On Dec 30, 4:33 pm, AmiSingh  wrote:
> My bicycle came alive today, and we were synchronized.  It was a great
> feeling.  Euphoria hit and and drivers kept staring. Maybe it's was
> because of the big fellow in the red rain-coat riding atop the
> turmeric-colored double-top-tubed bicycle.  I felt like it was because
> they were celebrating with me in sharing the huge smile upon my
> face. :)
>
> I gotta say, today was a good day.
>
> Here's a photo for your viewing pleasure:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/amisingh/5307702174/in/photostream/
>
> TA Carmina 185 cranks, Sugino chainrings 52 / 38, Shimano Ultegra 6700
> rear derailleur.  And waxed chain with a 80 / 20 Mix of Paraffin to
> Bees Wax for clean silent riding.

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[RBW] Re: 1/1 ride and resolutions

[MichaelH]

Lots of interesting ride reports getting posted.  I'm a little
jealous.

It has been a very cold and very snowy Dec. here, so I haven't done
much riding; lots of partying though so I really need to check out the
diet thread.  But New Years Eve saw the weather shift and the
temperature rise into the upper thirties.  The shoulders were pretty
clear so I have gotten in about an hour and a half of riding each of
the last three days.  I live at the bottom of a 1 1/2 mile, 7% grade
on a dirt road.  On friday it was still pretty much frozen but by
saturday it was slush and Sunday was deep mud full of ruts and
holes.   Now I get to practice my bike cleaning skills and resolve.
There must have been two  or three lbs. of mud on the bike when I
brought it in last night and began what will ultimately take a couple
of hours. Did the crank and brakes last night because I wanted to get
the road salt off of them before they warmed up.

BTW, I opened a bottle of the El Duke cleaner that Riv has started
selling.  I was very impressed.  It not only does a good job it
doesn't have the overwhelming stink of either spirits or citrus
cleaners.

Keep the rubber side down, especially when you're riding on ice.
michael,
westford, vt



On Jan 3, 5:50 am, Angus  wrote:
> Fortunately my garage is insulated, unfortunately no HVAC
> system...yet.
>
> I purchased a $20 electric heater and move it close to where I am
> working.  Makes things a little easier...mechanics gloves help too
> (cold tools).
>
> A dream would be to get an AC/Heater in the garage...but that's
> probably not a 2011 goal.
>
> Angus
>
> On Jan 2, 10:30 pm, Corwin  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I would list each of these resolutions as my own for 2011...
>
> > > 1. Be better about proactive maintenance on my bikes.
> > > 2. Thin down the herd so I stay on top of said maintenance.
> > > 3. Get a decent garage heater to make winter projects more fun.
> > > 4. Ride lots.
> > > 5. Have fun.
> > > 6. Take more photos.
>
> > Re: #3 - I fully admit I am a wimp. My garage never gets close to Park
> > City temps. Having lived in Colorado Springs, "cold' weather in
> > Northern California feels practically balmy.
>
> > Corwin

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[RBW] Re: How do you know when tires are worn out?

[MichaelH]

The look of the tread is rarely the first sign of tire wear.  Usually
the sidewalls show wear first.  I have had tires go significantly past
3,000 miles.  Usually the rear wheel shows significant wear first, but
since I would never, ever want a front tire blow out, I always change
them at the same time.  Bottom line, keep an eye on them, but don't
rush to judgement.

michael

On Jan 3, 3:24 pm, Michael Shaljian  wrote:
> I've had a set of Jack Browns on my Quickbeam since getting it in May
> '09, and I've probably got near 2500 miles on them. They seem to ride
> just fine, but I'm wondering what I should be looking for to know if
> the tread is worn out. I'm 180 lbs., for what it's worth, and I assume
> these should have a max lifespan of about 3000 miles?
>
> If the original 'checkerboard tread' has been worn down to totally
> smooth, are they worn out? Or are they basically fine until all tread
> is gone? As expensive as good tires are I'm not eager to change sooner
> than necessary, but I do have a set of Schwalbes waiting that I'd like
> to try out, maybe just to mix up my riding with new rubber?

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[RBW] Re: Fizik Handle Bar Wrap and New Lighting Set-up

[MichaelH]

I have been using the fazik tape since i first bought my Ram in 2005.
I originally did it in silver but this year redid it in something I
would call gunmetal, although I'm not sure what they call it.  Anyway,
it looks great and wears very well.  I got it from LBS, so I assume
anyone can get it.  Here it is:
http://gallery.me.com/mhechmer#100094/IMG_1880&bgcolor=black

michael

On Jan 5, 11:34 am, Jim Cloud  wrote:
> After the recent post concerning leather handlebar wraps, I thought
> the group might be interesting in seeing some photos of my Rivendell
> Road Standard with the Fizik Microtex honey brown handlebar tape.  As
> I previously have mentioned, this tape isn't available from any U.S.
> sources that I'm aware of, and I ordered it from a UK seller.
>
> I've also recently added a lighting set-up to the bike using an older
> NOS Sanyo Dynapower bottom bracket generator that was in my parts
> stash.  This isn't the Cat's meow of generator systems, like the
> Schmidt SON 28, but it suits my needs well.
>
> I very rarely ride at night, so an expensive hub generator (and new
> wheel build) just doesn't make sense for me.  The bottom bracket
> generator doesn't really add too much drag and it has worked well in
> some previous usage that I've had.
>
> The photos are here:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/37964...@n05/
>
> Jim Cloud

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[RBW] Re: AHH Gets A New Old Crank Set, Old Rear Derailleur - Feels Fantastic !

[MichaelH]

I'm 6'1" and usually ride with 172.5. or 175, and 170 will feel OK at
first but then my knees will start to hurt.  I agree that it's hard to
imagine such a tiny distance making a difference, but there it is.

Congrats to all the tall guys who have found frames that love them.
Having helped my fairly short daughter buy a new frame a few years ago
I appreciate how hard it is to find a bike that fits if you are
outside of a medium build..  At least with Riv, you can trust them,
even if you can't test ride.  I'm lucky to be just under the upper
limit for most traditional mfg.

michael

On Jan 5, 11:18 pm, Roger  wrote:
> I'm about 6'3" and 94 PBH and ride with 170s. I think I only really
> noticed a big difference form 175s when my knees would get sore and I
> was at the top of the stroke. Then the 10mm difference (5 at top, 5 at
> bottom) was a welcome difference.
>
> On Jan 5, 8:06 pm, amoll68  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Not too often does a 6'3" guy feel short, but it happens once in a
> > while.
>
> > RE crank length: for me, most of my bikes are 175s, but I've got a
> > couple with 170s and I don't notice a huge difference. I mean we're
> > only talking about 1/5 of an inch difference. I think I feel, and
> > sorta buy the cadence concept - maybe a little easier to spin the
> > 170s, and more leverage with the 175s. I guess physics and physiology
> > dictate that. I'm going to try 180s on my current winter project, and
> > I'm looking forward to it. It's a mid-70s road bike built up with
> > vintage Campagnolo NR. I'm hoping the 180s will help in the mountains,
> > when I'm grunting with the 42-28 low. 180 was the preferred length for
> > Eddy (the Cannibal) Merckx in the mountain stages, so it's gotta be
> > worth a try.
>
> > Really cool bike - thanks for sharing.
>
> > Alex Moll
> > Marysville, WA

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[RBW] Touring New Mexico

[MichaelH]

I just double crossed my wife by backing out of a trip to Barbados.
As I was about to order the tickets, I couldn't make my finger go down
and hit the button that put $900 for airfare on my CC.  I realized
that what I really waned to do was go back to NM.  I've been there
twice - Albuquerque & north - and never with a bike.

So I'm trying to talk her into a road trip, camping, riding, visiting
in the mid Feb. to mid March time frame.  I would welcome some
feedback from people either in the area or who have ridden there.
Weather, road conditions, camp sites, etc.

Thanks,
michael

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[RBW] Re: Touring New Mexico

[MichaelH]

Actually that's the part of the state that I have toured on two
occasions for about a month in total.  I was thinking about coming
across the south - hitting New Orleans & San Antonio before landing in
Big Bend, then on to Carlsbad, and Las Cruces, before heading back
north.
michael

On Jan 7, 9:58 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> Cold and windy, especially north of Albuquerque; I'd guess that you
> want to tour the north central part of the state, Santa Fe, Taos,
> Espanola, Chama, and they are all considerably higher than ABQ's 5K
> feet. I'd not spring this on her suddenly! My own choice would be May
> and June or perhaps September. Mid summer isn't too hot at those
> elevations, but the "monsoon" comes in July and August.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 6, 2011 at 7:43 PM, Jim Cloud  wrote:
> > Somehow, a bicycle camping trip to NM in the mid Feb. to March time
> > frame doesn't sound like quite the trip compared to Barbados!  It's
> > not particularly warm at that time of year, by the way.  (And, yes, I
> > did live in New Mexico for many years, it's my home state).  The
> > average high and low temperatures in Albuquerque in Feb. - 53/27.  I
> > guess that's balmy compared to Vermont!
>
> > Good luck getting your wife on board!
>
> > Jim Cloud
>
> > On Jan 6, 2:30 pm, MichaelH  wrote:
> >> I just double crossed my wife by backing out of a trip to Barbados.
> >> As I was about to order the tickets, I couldn't make my finger go down
> >> and hit the button that put $900 for airfare on my CC.  I realized
> >> that what I really waned to do was go back to NM.  I've been there
> >> twice - Albuquerque & north - and never with a bike.
>
> >> So I'm trying to talk her into a road trip, camping, riding, visiting
> >> in the mid Feb. to mid March time frame.  I would welcome some
> >> feedback from people either in the area or who have ridden there.
> >> Weather, road conditions, camp sites, etc.
>
> >> Thanks,
> >> michael
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visit this group 
> > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
>
> --
> Patrick Moore
> Albuquerque, NM
> For professional resumes, contact
> Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: Touring New Mexico

[MichaelH]

Thanks for the suggestions Jim.  I have a great time camping and
hiking outside of Tucson.  We stayed at a state park but I can't
remember the name of it now.  I don't think I want to drive to Arizona
on this trip, but i do want to look at all these links.
michael


On Jan 7, 2:38 pm, Jim Cloud  wrote:
> Michael,
>
> Just as another tour to consider, Southeast Arizona in late February
> to March is just about perfect for weather.  Vermont Bicycle Tours,
> which I'm sure you're familiar with, has a tour itinerary for one of
> their supported tours that could fairly easily be cannibalized for a
> self-supported tour.  Here's a link to the VBT description of their
> tour:  
> http://www.vbt.com/tours/Arizona-Sonoran-Splendor-2011-itinerary_397
>
> There are a number of decent and relatively inexpensive Bed &
> Breakfast accommodations in Bisbee (home of the great "Bisbee Bicycle
> Brothel" -http://www.bisbeebicyclebrothel.com/), as well as in the
> Sonoita, Patagonia and Tubac areas.  The tour possibilities in this
> area are pretty unlimited.  If you prefer camping, you can certainly
> find some suitable locations (e.g. Chiricahua National Monument in the
> Chircahua Mtns., Cochise Stronghold in the Dragoon Mtns., numerous
> possibilities in the area around Patagonia).
>
> Just another possibility to think about.
>
> Jim Cloud
> Tucson, AZ
>
> On Jan 7, 10:43 am, MichaelH  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Actually that's the part of the state that I have toured on two
> > occasions for about a month in total.  I was thinking about coming
> > across the south - hitting New Orleans & San Antonio before landing in
> > Big Bend, then on to Carlsbad, and Las Cruces, before heading back
> > north.
> > michael
>
> > On Jan 7, 9:58 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>
> > > Cold and windy, especially north of Albuquerque; I'd guess that you
> > > want to tour the north central part of the state, Santa Fe, Taos,
> > > Espanola, Chama, and they are all considerably higher than ABQ's 5K
> > > feet. I'd not spring this on her suddenly! My own choice would be May
> > > and June or perhaps September. Mid summer isn't too hot at those
> > > elevations, but the "monsoon" comes in July and August.
>
> > > On Thu, Jan 6, 2011 at 7:43 PM, Jim Cloud  wrote:
> > > > Somehow, a bicycle camping trip to NM in the mid Feb. to March time
> > > > frame doesn't sound like quite the trip compared to Barbados!  It's
> > > > not particularly warm at that time of year, by the way.  (And, yes, I
> > > > did live in New Mexico for many years, it's my home state).  The
> > > > average high and low temperatures in Albuquerque in Feb. - 53/27.  I
> > > > guess that's balmy compared to Vermont!
>
> > > > Good luck getting your wife on board!
>
> > > > Jim Cloud
>
> > > > On Jan 6, 2:30 pm, MichaelH  wrote:
> > > >> I just double crossed my wife by backing out of a trip to Barbados.
> > > >> As I was about to order the tickets, I couldn't make my finger go down
> > > >> and hit the button that put $900 for airfare on my CC.  I realized
> > > >> that what I really waned to do was go back to NM.  I've been there
> > > >> twice - Albuquerque & north - and never with a bike.
>
> > > >> So I'm trying to talk her into a road trip, camping, riding, visiting
> > > >> in the mid Feb. to mid March time frame.  I would welcome some
> > > >> feedback from people either in the area or who have ridden there.
> > > >> Weather, road conditions, camp sites, etc.
>
> > > >> Thanks,
> > > >> michael
>
> > > > --
> > > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
> > > > Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> > > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com.
> > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> > > > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > > > For more options, visit this group 
> > > > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
>
> > > --
> > > Patrick Moore
> > > Albuquerque, NM
> > > For professional resumes, contact
> > > Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: Fender mounted battery powered taillight suggestions?

[MichaelH]

I use a Spanninga SPXB  http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/spanninga.asp

I also have a pair of cateyes, the T1000 mounted to the back of my
saddle bag and another on the back of the rack.
michael

On Jan 7, 11:01 pm, RoadieRyan  wrote:
> After commuting home in the dark and rain this evening (Seattle) it
> occurred to me that, even with a nice Princeton-tech swerve n the seat
> stay and modest tail pack and back of helmet tail lights,  a nice
> bright rear fender mounted tail light would not be a bad idea.
>
> I like the look of the PDW Radbot 1000 but it doesn't specify a fender
> mount option.  Anybody have suggestions on a good battery powered
> fender mounted tail light I can slap on my (metal) fender?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ryan
>
> West Seattle
>
> PS  Thank goodness for wool on wet nights!  and lil' loafer rain
> covers.

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[RBW] Re: Touring New Mexico

[MichaelH]

She seems to be coming around, but I think we will plan this to hit
Big Bend around 3/1 and NM a few days later.  That sounds a little
safer.  The National Park Service web site says the park gets crowded
in March, which makes me hope I can hit a space with higher temps and
lower traffic.
Right now I have to go remove a half foot of snow, from something the
weather report called flurries.

Thanks for everyones feedback.

michael

On Jan 8, 9:48 pm, tarik saleh  wrote:
>  I composed almost all  of this before I saw you were planning on
> going south, but go back and read the last paragraph and the parts
> about the wind.  I figure people would enjoy the link to the bob ride
> a few years back too.
>
> If you get north of Albuquerque, you get really high really quick, I
> live in los alamos at 7200 feet and I usually take my studded tires
> off on Tax Day.  Santa fe is also at 7000 feet. Just to give you an
> idea of what can go wrong. Here is the Santa Fe Mtb race in early May
> 2010:http://www.flickr.com/photos/targetsalad/4571133393/
> Not in the mountains mind you, that is probably a touch lower than
> 7000 feet just outside of the city proper.
>
> Now often you can get some nice spring road biking as the sun keeps
> things warm. Nights can be rough. Santa Fe and Los Alamos date of last
> frost is usually 6/1 or so depending on exactly where you are.
>
> However, as patrick said, usually winter gives way to wind. Here are
> some photos of an ill advised bob-ride in Albuquerque on 3/16/2008:
>
> http://tsaleh.blogspot.com/2008/03/nm-ibob-ride-in-few-pics-and-video...
> You can see pictures of Patrick " I never flat" Moore fixing a flat,
> Ryan Watson and me among other bob /RBW listers.  So it was probably
> reasonably warmish in Albuquerque that day, but check out the movie
> and the  picture of Ryan afterwards. While that was a really windy
> day, it was not atypically windy for spring riding.
>
> As Ray pointed out there is nice cold skiing at the higher elevations,
> Los Alamos's xc ski area is at 9000 feet or so, but usually by march
> you can road ride in the morning in town (the one good loop road ride
> in town is the bandelier loop which goes from 7800 feet to 6300 feet
> or so) and xc ski up on the mountain in the afternoon.  I believe I
> did an Xc ski race in los alamos the day before the bob-ride linked
> above.
>
> Anyhow, June and early July are probably good, after that the monsoons
> come with severe thunderstorms. Then again in september, before winter
> comes in october (in higher elevations again)
> I like to say there are months in which you will get snowed on, and
> the rest of the months you will probably get hailed on, so there are
> always challenges riding in the high country.
>
> Anyhow, plan carefully. Most of NM is above 4000 feet in altitude,
> even all the way to the border with mexico. The local bike racer list
> has fairly regular emails to house cyling tourists that gambled on Feb
> or October being good riding in Albuquerque, Las Cruces and Carlsbad
> and losing.  Silver City and the Gila are also popular areas for
> cycling tourist and hikers to get caught by bad storms on the
> peripheries of winter.
>
> Good luck and plan well.
>
> Tarik
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 10:43 AM, MichaelH  wrote:
> >> Actually that's the part of the state that I have toured on two
> >> occasions for about a month in total.  I was thinking about coming
> >> across the south - hitting New Orleans & San Antonio before landing in
> >> Big Bend, then on to Carlsbad, and Las Cruces, before heading back
> >> north.
> >> michael
>
> > Latest forecasts for ABQ area, mid 40s high with low 20s low; Las
> > Cruces 12-15 F higher.
>
> > --
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>
> --
> Tarik Saleh
> tas at tariksaleh dot com
> in los alamos, po box 208, 87544http://tariksaleh.com
> all sorts of bikes blog:http://tsaleh.blogspot.com

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[RBW] Re: Informal Tall Riders Group: What is the best vehicle for hauling your bike?

[MichaelH]

I drive a 2010 Prius and have no trouble carrying either two full size
bikes, or our Bilenkey, coupled touring tandem inside the car. Last
summer we went from Vt to MI and back with the tandem inside our car.
I have a Saris hitch rack that quickly carries two single bikes or the
tandem in two parts, on the rack.  My Thule Tandem roof rack, which is
a rebranded ATOC Carrier,  can carry the tandem, or a single bike,
with fenders, on the roof.  I have also used a Thule carrier
(Criterium) that grips the down tube and therefore allows for fenders
and quick access.  I easily carry a 19 1/2 foot expedition canoe on
top of my Prius, and the hatchback makes accessing equipment pretty
easy.

Last month, I drove up to an outlet and bought a full size, seven foot
Christmas tree.  The seller was amazed as I quickly tied up the entire
tree, slid it inside my car and closed the hatchback for the drive
home.  You can't do that with  an SUV.

Frankly, an SUV like the Jeep, is the least useful shape for carrying
cargo, and the van and mini van, while quite useful for many
applications, are overkill for people who occasionally carry large
items.

michael,
westford, vt.


On Jan 13, 6:02 pm, robert zeidler  wrote:
> Here's why I ask?  I'm thinking about some new (4) wheels, and would
> like to be able to keep the bike inside at times in the event of rain,
> theft-prevention etc.  Thinking of maybe outfitting a Jeep Wrangler w/
> a floor-mounted fork mount-just back the bike in, tighten the QR,
> slide the wheel in next to it
>
> Anyway, what is everybody else doing?
>
> RGZ

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[RBW] Re: Tandem Dreams

[MichaelH]

A good rule of thumb for tandem costs... expect to pay 3X the price of
a single bike of equivalent quality.

But they are a heck of a lot of fun and can make or break a
relationship.  My wife and I love our Bilenky Touring Tandem.  In fact
her very nice dressed mid-80's Sequoia is feeling lonely and blue.

Here: http://gallery.me.com/mhechmer#100076

michael

On Jan 14, 12:27 am, James Warren  wrote:
> Yeah, but then you divide the cost by 2.
>
> On Jan 13, 2011, at 8:49 PM, Seth Vidal wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 11:46 PM, cyclotourist  
> > wrote:
> >> That's the trick, isn't it.
>
> > So - lets see figure a cool $4000+ for the frame/fork. Then add what?
> > $600 or more for shipping?
>
> > youch
>
> > -sv
>
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[RBW] Re: Informal Tall Riders Group: What is the best vehicleforhauling your bike?

[MichaelH]

Two things to keep in mind here.  First the ego wants wanting more
than it wants having.  That's why as soon as we get what we want, we
start wanting something else.  If that weren't true the entire
consumer driven economy would collapse.

Second, oil industry executives are forecasting gasoline prices of
$5.00 by early 2012.

At the end of Feb I will put our tandem, in 3 pieces, inside the
Prius, along with all our camping equipment, and a roof rack, then
drive from Vermont to New Mexico.  Once there (actually to Big Bend in
west TX) we will put the three parts of the tandem back together and
carry it up on the roof.  To do the same trip in a Jeep or a van would
require about 50 gallons more gas, which cost as much as shipping the
bike back and forth.

 On other long trips, with two bikes outside the car, I have covered
the seats and removed the chains.  The rest is a wash.

As for sexy... you can buy sex, but you can't buy love.

michael



On Jan 14, 7:55 am, robert zeidler  wrote:
> You're not infringing, dude.  What you lack in door frame,
> head-smacking height, you make up for with great ideas!
>
> RGZ
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 10:37 PM, Michael_S  wrote:
> > sorry if I'm infringing ( I'm only slightly above avg) on your
> > subgroup but people say tall bikes can fit upright with front tire off
> > in the Mitsubishi Outlander. Avail in 4wd too.
>
> >http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=6519393#poststop
>
> > ~Mike~
>
> > On Jan 13, 6:34 pm, zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:
> >> Can't always ride to the start. I'll have to try the seat-down experiment.
> >> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
> >> -Original Message-
> >> From: Jeremy Till 
>
> >> Sender: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> >> Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2011 18:11:46
> >> To: RBW Owners Bunch
> >> Reply-To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> >> Subject: [RBW] Re: Informal Tall Riders Group: What is the best vehicle
> >>  forhauling your bike?
>
> >> Hate to burst your fantasy but a friend has a four door wrangler and
> >> it was never that easy to get our bikes inside...we're both 6'3",
> >> riding ~63cm bikes with ~85cm saddle heights and they couldn't fit
> >> vertically even with front wheel removed.  The Wrangler cabins are
> >> deceiving short, especially behind the rear seat.  Usual procedure was
> >> to remove our front wheels, fold down the rear seat, and lay the bikes
> >> down flat, one on top of the other.   He ended up buying one of the
> >> thule racks that attaches to the spare tire mount.
>
> >> Best way to haul your bike?  Ride there!
>
> >> On Jan 13, 5:33 pm, zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:
> >> > Well, all true, but also in the Jeeps favor:
> >> > 4WD-you probably got the same 30+" we got yesterday.
> >> > Removable tops, doors, so you also have a convertible.
> >> > A certain fun factor too.
> >> > RGZ
> >> > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
> >> > -Original Message-
> >> > From: MichaelH 
>
> >> > Sender: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> >> > Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2011 17:20:14
> >> > To: RBW Owners Bunch
> >> > Reply-To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> >> > Subject: [RBW] Re: Informal Tall Riders Group: What is the best vehicle 
> >> > for
> >> >  hauling your bike?
>
> >> > I drive a 2010 Prius and have no trouble carrying either two full size
> >> > bikes, or our Bilenkey, coupled touring tandem inside the car. Last
> >> > summer we went from Vt to MI and back with the tandem inside our car.
> >> > I have a Saris hitch rack that quickly carries two single bikes or the
> >> > tandem in two parts, on the rack.  My Thule Tandem roof rack, which is
> >> > a rebranded ATOC Carrier,  can carry the tandem, or a single bike,
> >> > with fenders, on the roof.  I have also used a Thule carrier
> >> > (Criterium) that grips the down tube and therefore allows for fenders
> >> > and quick access.  I easily carry a 19 1/2 foot expedition canoe on
> >> > top of my Prius, and the hatchback makes accessing equipment pretty
> >> > easy.
>
> >> > Last month, I drove up to an outlet and bought a full size, seven foot
> >> > Christmas tree.  The seller was amazed as I quickly tied up the entire
> >> > tree, slid it inside my car and closed the hatchback for the drive
> >> > home.  You can&

[RBW] Re: Different weather for different folks

[MichaelH]

Nice bike.  I like the simplicity.  I found indexed shifting doesn't
hold up in NE winters.  But as soon as the road temps warm enough to
produce slush I couldn't imagine riding without fenders.  I love my
Bilenky coupled tandem and have been thinking about getting a single
retrofitted.

Mostly in the winter I focus on yoga and snow shoeing, since I'm way
out in the boonies.  I keep thinking about buying a set of studded
tires, but then I turn on the weather report and see that the
overnight lows will be -25 and the daytime hi around zero and I think,
maybe not right now.

michael
Westford, VT (and don't bother looking for it on a map, you wont find
it!)

On Jan 20, 7:27 pm, Abcyclehank  wrote:
> Fair weather riders-
> Here are a few pictures of my winter ride, 66cm Bilenky with S & S
> couplers, outfitted with studded tires for traction on icy roads and
> bike paths. Only a short 7 mile ride outside after snow blowing drive
> for 45 minutes early afternoon.  Cold weather will push me inside on
> the trainer the next few day highs expected in single digits with wind
> chills in the negative teens.  Still love all the seasons but enjoy
> cycling more in the fall and summer along West Michigan roadways.
>
> Ryan
>
> http://gallery.me.com/hankinson10/100248/DSC06139.http://gallery.me.com/hankinson10/100248/DSC06141.http://gallery.me.com/hankinson10/100248/DSC06142.

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[RBW] Re: Oh snap! Now you can buy the ultimate crankset!

[MichaelH]

The White Industry crank & BB is $100 less, a 100 grams less, far more
versitle, better looking, and made in the USA to boot.
michael

On Jan 21, 3:05 pm, Michael_S  wrote:
> The only concern I would have with that combination is the lack of a
> real low gear. There are climbs I do, especially on dirt roads, that
> something like a 24-28 or 30 is far easier to maintain for a 30 min.
> duration then would be a 30-28.  On shorter climbs you can get out of
> the saddle to help and most paved roads are designed and built with
> reasonable grades.
>
> I wish there were some curently available cranks in the 94bcd, it
> seems to me the perfect design for a compact double without all the
> extra bolts of the TA.
>
> ~Mike
>
> On Jan 21, 11:11 am, William  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I'm running a 44/30 on a 94mm bolt circle with an 11-28 9 speed
> > cassette and it's spectacular.  I can cruise easily at 20kph in the
> > middle of the cogset on the 30.  I can cruise quickly at 20mph in the
> > middle of the cogset on the 44.  My highest gear is a 44-11 and I can
> > spin that out on a decent and be right at 40mph, beyond which I always
> > have been happy to coast.  I'm going to try 46/29 sometime (I already
> > have the rings), but so far so good.  With a double, the chainline
> > allows all 18 combinations to be used, although I still avoid the two
> > extreme crosschain combinations (44-28 and 30-11).  16 totally usable
> > gears with basically zero overlaps.  Furthermore, with the Campy
> > compact double front der that Riv sells, my setup miraculously is 99%
> > trim free.  It's great treating your front shifting like a switch,
> > instead of gently trying to hit the middle (and, yes, I have a number
> > of bikes with a triple.  I know how to shift a triple).  On a bike
> > that won't be heavily loaded, I think having 16 usable and well-spaced
> > gears between 28 and 104 gear inches is plenty.
>
> > On Jan 21, 7:24 am, Michael_S  wrote:
>
> > > For some reason I still prefer triples. On a long sustained climb in
> > > the mountains I find I fatigue less easily if I spin at a certain
> > > cadence and force.  I also prefer something in the 38-40 tooth range
> > > for most flatish riding. Coming down long gradual mountians a ring in
> > > the 48-50 range gives me a nice steady pace.  It also allows a tighter
> > > frewheel/cassette so it's easier to find a nice combinatioin in every
> > > terrrain.
>
> > > The one thing I need to try is something like a 44-29 to see if the 44
> > > can meet most conditions. I have been scouring EBAY looking for 94bcd
> > > cranks so I can cobble something together to try it out.
>
> > > And $500+ for a crankset seems crazy to me .
>
> > > ~Mike
>
> > > On Jan 20, 10:27 pm, rinjin  wrote:
>
> > > > Ah, I see. Well if one of those combinations makes sense for you and
> > > > you need to save some grams over the VO setup then I guess this makes
> > > > a certain kind of sense. For a light-ish road bike I'm pretty happy
> > > > with my 50-34 setup.
>
> > > > Brian
>
> > > > On Jan 20, 10:07 pm, Earl Grey  wrote:
>
> > > > > The cool thing about the 801 is that it has 74 BCD holes as far out as
> > > > > where the inner chainring sits (I 
> > > > > think):http://www.suginoltd.co.jp/english/ox801d_main_english.htm
> > > > > (A little hard to tell from the website, but if you look at the left-
> > > > > most bolt hole in the third photo you can see that a 74 BCD ring would
> > > > > replace the inner ring; i.e. this is not a triple.)
>
> > > > > So you can replace the inner 110 BCD ring with a 74 BCD ring and run a
> > > > > wide range double with an inner ring down to 24 teeth. A pretty cool
> > > > > idea, and if they make an XD2/XD600 variant like this, I'll buy it in
> > > > > a heartbeat. As far as what's available now, I'd rather get the VO TA
> > > > > copy; cheaper and prettier IMO.
>
> > > > > Gernot
>
> > > > > On Jan 21, 11:37 am, rinjin  wrote:
>
> > > > > > I don't mind the looks so much, but the price seems a little high. 
> > > > > > Is
> > > > > > there an advantage over a Campy 10s crankset, either Veloce or
> > > > > > Centaur, with PowerTorque? Like this:http://tinyurl.com/4logk38. And
> > > > > > about $300 cheaper. What am I missing? Low Q factor?
>
> > > > > > Brian
> > > > > > Park City
>
> > > > > > On Jan 20, 2:40 pm, William  wrote:
>
> > > > > > >http://store.somafab.com/suoxcoplrocr.html
>
> > > > > > > Soma Fab actually has the Sugino OX801D in stock.  Crankset and 
> > > > > > > BB for
> > > > > > > a whopping $529.  Way too expensive for many of us, and too
> > > > > > > spaceshippy looking for many of us.  That's about what I thought 
> > > > > > > it
> > > > > > > would cost.  Somebody building a totally tricked-out Roadeo 
> > > > > > > should run
> > > > > > > these and show them off.  High-end road bits can still be 
> > > > > > > carbon-free
> > > > > > > if they want to be.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show q

[RBW] Re: My Roadeo on the Velo Cult blog

[MichaelH]

Very nice bike, Chris.  I love the color.  You will love the Paul's
breaks, easy set up, great control.  I liked them so much on my tandem
that I bought a set for my Rambouillet.  Two questions.  I see that
the front fender stay is nearly horizontal.  I installed the same
fluted Honjos on my Ram that way and got considerable TCO.  I moved
the stay down a couple of inches and solved about 90% of that.  What's
your experience with TCO on the fendered Rodeo?  Also, what's the
crank & ring set up?

For a while I made all my bikes a  black free zone, then a Shimano
free zone (after quite a few negative experiences) but now I take a
more judicious approach.  I love my White cranks, black and all; and I
have to say my new Ultegra RD 6700 is the best shifting derailler I
have used in 30+ years of riding.

Anyway, enjoy the ride.  I love my Ram as much today as I did when I
bought it - six or seven years ago.  Wish the same for you.

michael

On Jan 25, 7:05 pm, "XO-1.org Rough Riders" 
wrote:
> Thanks to Sky, Tom, Anthony, and the rest of the Velo Cult team for
> their amazing service as San Diego County's premier bike shop which
> caters to everybody except the mainstream - which means we fit right
> in! Today they have featured two of my Rough Riding bikes, and their
> recent work on them, on their blog:
>
> http://www.velocult.com/blog/post/raleigh_competition_rivendell_roadeo
>
> Click on over to their always fascinating blog which is always VERY
> well illustrated with incredible photography. Today their blog
> features my 1983 Raleigh Competition, which Tom outfitted with a 3-
> Speed Fixed Wheel set-up, and my 2010 Rivendell Roadeo, on which Sky
> installed hammer Honjo fenders and Challenge Paris-Roubaix 700x29
> tyres. They do superb work and are great people. And don't my bikes
> look as awesome as they ride??? (I'll be riding that Roadeo in a 300km
> brevet this Saturday, from Moorpark to Santa Barbara and back.)
>
> Velo Cult is located in the South Park area of San Diego, just a bit
> south of University Avenue and west of the 805, in a really neat
> neighborhood with a great restaurant next door (Whistle Stop Bar) and
> a classic coffee shop (Rebecca's) on the corner. Velo Cult often show
> films or have other social events at their shop in the evenings,. They
> are a driving force behind the San Diego Tweed Ride and they also
> created the San Diego Bike Commuter online forum and the
> SDBikeCommuter.com Discount Program through which local merchants give
> discounts to customers who arrive by bicycle.
>
> Related links:http://www.sdbikecommuter.com/
> andhttp://www.sdbikecommuter.com/find_businesses/
>
> - Chris Kostman
> La Jolla, CAhttp://www.XO-1.orghttp://www.adventurecorps.com

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[RBW] Re: When is a tire too big?

[MichaelH]

I would second (or third) the views of Patrick and Angus.  I live in a
town with no paved roads, so I do a lot of dirt road riding, and
almost every ride begins and ends with 2+ miles of dirt.  However, I
have never felt the need for really big tires.  The biggest I am
running are 38 Avocet Cross Tires, which measure out to 35 and have an
inverted tread, so aren't too bad on pavement, and are great on dirt
and even packed snow.  But when I'm out on a long ride on pavement I
want something faster and lighter, so typically run 26-28 on my
Rambouillet, but am currently running 23mm Continental Grand Prix ( a
gift from my son). They feel very lively and haven't flatted once in
the first 500 miles or so, and that was actually on the dirt road
heading out from my home.

michael

On Jan 27, 11:30 pm, Bob  wrote:
> Much is said about Rivs taking big tires, those advanced, low rolling
> resistance, low pressure tires that absorb shocks, stop flats, survive
> long tours across the tundra, and eliminate potentially hazardous
> resonances in areas of lipid storage.  But when do you get too much of
> a good thing and your king of the road turns into a beach cruiser?
> Aside from Riv gatherings where riders compare tire widths, when is
> bigger not better?

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[RBW] Re: Toyo versus Waterford Atlantis

[MichaelH]

I must say that the variety of attitudes toward products made in the
USA which get expressed on this site very often leave me scratching my
head.  Some people who fall all over themselves praising MUSA clothes,
regularly diss and compare excellent US bike products to cheaper
Tiawnese.  About the only producer who escapes this is Phil Wood.

The primary reason for buying local is the contribution to building a
sense of community.  I live in a rural state and have the opportunity
to source a very high proportion of my food, some of my clothing and
my grandsons toys from people in this state. These products are
invariably more expensive, but the quality is excellent and they are
my neighbors.

All but one of my bicycle frames were made in Asia, and they are very
good.  However, I try to dress them up with "local" products - White
hubs & cranks; PW BB, Paul's brakes; Chris King HS.  It's a community
thing; I spend my money here and they pay their taxes here.  One hand
helps the other.

michael,
westford, Vt

On Jan 28, 6:04 am, zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:
> How so my friend?
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Angus 
>
> Sender: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2011 03:02:19
> To: RBW Owners Bunch
> Reply-To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> Subject: [RBW] Re: Toyo versus Waterford Atlantis
>
> I think, Robert, that this all depends upon ones perspective.
>
> Angus
>
> On Jan 27, 1:45 pm, robert zeidler  wrote:
> > If they are built here, they are better.  Think about everything bad
> > that's associated w/ a Taiwanese made product.
>
> > On Sun, Jan 23, 2011 at 7:45 AM, Angus  wrote:
> > > Bob,
>
> > > I've had two Rivendells (non Atlantis) built by Waterford.  They were
> > > very well done.
>
> > > I've had two Rivendell (one an Atlantis) built by Toyo.  They were
> > > also very well done.
>
> > > I have not been able to detect a difference.
>
> > > Angus
>
> > > On Jan 22, 10:34 pm, Bob  wrote:
> > >> How does the Toyo built Atlantis differ in quality and/or geometry
> > >> from the Waterford edition?  Exclude differences in braze-ons,
> > >> kickstand plate and range of sizes.
>
> > >> In other words, what, if anything, was gained or lost by the change in
> > >> builder?
>
> > > --
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> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
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> > > For more options, visit this group 
> > > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
>
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[RBW] Re: When is a tire too big?

[MichaelH]

One - I am a 200 lb rider.

Two - the same dirt road isn't necessarily the same on two different
days.  If they have just been graded they will be soft and sandy; if
they have been driven on for a while they will be pact, but might be
rocky or rutted; if it's been dry and hot they will get corrugated and
awful; if it raining or its thawing they will be muddy.  If its
snowing they could be hard packed and firm or soft and slippery.  When
you ride out in the morning, don't be surprised if the road feels
quite different in the evening.

Three -  I'm only sharing my own experiences of living with dirt roads
for the past 20 years.

michael



On Jan 28, 8:27 am, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> On Fri, 2011-01-28 at 05:11 -0800, MichaelH wrote:
> > I would second (or third) the views of Patrick and Angus.  I live in a
> > town with no paved roads, so I do a lot of dirt road riding, and
> > almost every ride begins and ends with 2+ miles of dirt.  However, I
> > have never felt the need for really big tires.  The biggest I am
> > running are 38 Avocet Cross Tires, which measure out to 35 and have an
> > inverted tread, so aren't too bad on pavement, and are great on dirt
> > and even packed snow.  But when I'm out on a long ride on pavement I
> > want something faster and lighter, so typically run 26-28 on my
> > Rambouillet, but am currently running 23mm Continental Grand Prix ( a
> > gift from my son). They feel very lively and haven't flatted once in
> > the first 500 miles or so, and that was actually on the dirt road
> > heading out from my home.
>
> Two qualifications:
>
> 1.  All dirt roads aren't the same.  Some are soft and sandy, some are
> littered with ruts and large rocks, some are hard-packed gravel.   What
> works on one surface may not work on another.
>
> 2.  Weight matters.  A tire that may glide on top of the gravel for a
> 100 lb person may sink in under the weight of 200 lb of rider.

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[RBW] Re: New Touring Wheelset question

[MichaelH]

For what it's worth, last season we outfitted a our touring tandem
with the DaVinci V23 rim in 26" and put Marathon Racers 1.6 tires on
it.  The team weighs about 340 lbs( and the bike weighs about 40) and
more than half our riding has been on dirt roads, no single track.
Very strong rims, especially in 26". I don't think you need 40 holes
on a 26" rim, 36 will do fine.  These are V shaped 23 mm wide.
Here's the link:
http://www.davincitandems.com/comp.html

There build prices are very reasonable.  No flats last season on the
Marathon Racers, either.

michael

On Jan 28, 4:07 pm, Gary  wrote:
> I'm looking to get a new touring wheelset and would like some
> feedback. The wheels will be 26", used fully loaded. Me 200lbs 6'4",
> bike fully loaded, 60% on road 40% offroad. 40 hole Phils, tires 1.75
> maybe  2.0.   Now the questions.
>
> 24mm or 27mm rim width and limitations for each with regard to
> minimum/ maximum tire size for the rims?
>
> What would be the safe minimum tire width on either and still be safe
> (pinch flats etc.) for rough riding.
>
> What would be the maximum tire width (stability) for each.
>
> I'm needing to pick my poison.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary

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[RBW] Re: 1/2 Off Rivendell Frame

[MichaelH]

I'll suggest a Hemicycle.
michael

On Jan 30, 10:42 am, Montclair BobbyB 
wrote:
> A few name suggestions... (Grant, if you're listening...)
>
> Halfapillar
> Atla...
> Rambo'd
> SimpleHalf
>
> Don't worry, I won't quit my day job any time soon
> BB
>
> On Jan 30, 10:06 am, Earl Grey  wrote:
>
>
>
> > But did he ride it home after he hit the bandsaw head-on?
>
> > Gernot
>
> > On Jan 30, 3:32 am, "Jim M."  wrote:
>
> > > I hadn't noticed this hanging on the RBW wall before:
>
> > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/20986098@N04/5398473103/in/pool-rivendel...
>
> > > Note I didn't say 1/2 Off Frame for Sale.
>
> > > jim m
> > > wc ca

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[RBW] Re: New Touring Wheelset question

[MichaelH]

There is a difference between 26" and 700C wheels and a difference
between box and V shaped rims.  A 26" wheel will always be stronger
than a 700c wheel with the same # of spokes and equal wheel building
skill.  A V shaped rim will always be stronger than a box rim of
similar metal.  A 700C, 36 spoke rim & typical box rim would not be
strong enough to tour on a tandem, but a 26" wheel with 36 spokes and
a sturdy V shaped rim is strong enough to support the 400 lbs that two
riders, and a 40+lb touring bike create.  Similarly, a 1.6" (38 mm)
tire can provide a comfortable ride with little fear of pinch flats
for such a load on almost all road surfaces ( off road is another
issue all together.)

So if you are touring with a heavy load on 700C rims, then 40 or 48
spoke wheels are probably a good idea; but on 26" wheels, it is an
expensive overkill.  Of course no one can ever guarantee that you will
never have a flat, break a spoke, or dent a rim.  That's why it's
called adventure cycling.

Several years ago I rode with a group of 10 across the Cumberland Gap
- 185 miles from Cumberland to DC ( with a great ending dinner at
Copi's Organic in DC)  Eight people rode mountain bikes with 26"
wheels and 2+" tires and two of us rode 700c x 38.  There were two
flats along the way, both in heavy 2+" tires.  Go figure.  Since it
rained for two days we also learned that the 38s actually did just as
well in the mud as to 50s.  Also the other 9 riders learned why
bicycles should have fenders.  They were astonished that i wasn't
covered in mud!  I got up very early one morning and cleaned all their
bikes and re-lubed their chains.

michael



On Feb 4, 3:33 pm, SISDDWG  wrote:
> Some think 40 and 48 holes are excessive for loaded touring. Indeed,
> many have crossed the country with 36 holes. Also, many get along
> without health insurance. I crossed the U.S.A. with 40 front and 48
> rear and never gave the wheels a thought. I knew that if one or even
> two spokes broke I had insurance, 39 or 47 spokes remaining. I believe
> that the wheels would still be reasonable true.
>
> On Jan 28, 1:07 pm, Gary  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I'm looking to get a new touring wheelset and would like some
> > feedback. The wheels will be 26", used fully loaded. Me 200lbs 6'4",
> > bike fully loaded, 60% on road 40% offroad. 40 hole Phils, tires 1.75
> > maybe  2.0.   Now the questions.
>
> > 24mm or 27mm rim width and limitations for each with regard to
> > minimum/ maximum tire size for the rims?
>
> > What would be the safe minimum tire width on either and still be safe
> > (pinch flats etc.) for rough riding.
>
> > What would be the maximum tire width (stability) for each.
>
> > I'm needing to pick my poison.
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > Gary

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[RBW] Re: Pasela sidewall failure: Damage or manufacturing defect?

[MichaelH]

This confirms my experience.  I have had great luck with some pasellas
and not so much with other.  The side walls on the Tserve are much
more reliable.  I have wondered if ultraviolet exposure effects the
roly-poly, speedblend, and pasella side walls?

michael

On Feb 3, 9:38 am, Mike  wrote:
> I've had that problem with multiple Pasela tires. I've had better luck
> with T-Serves. I'm pretty much all about Schwalbe tires now. I'm not
> sure what tire I'll use for randonneuring this year, I imagine T-
> Serves which, in spite of being heavier seem to hold up better. I got
> a big sidewall tear in a T-Serve but that was after a year and a half
> of pretty heavy use. The tear also seemed to be initiated by something
> environmental as opposed to just coming apart.
>
> I feel like there's never much talk about Continental tires. I used
> some Conti Contacts years ago and they seemed to be pretty nice
> although did not run true to size. I had tires marked 37 that seemed
> more like 33 or so.
>
> --mike

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